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5 

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FALLS    n\    SI.  AN^Ho^^> 

KEEN  &  LEE 

N"?    148    LAKE     STREET, 
CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS. 


NO-: 


MINNESOTA 


AND 


ITS  RESOURCES 


TO    WHICH    ARE    APPKNDED 

CAMP-FIRE  SKETCHES 

OR 

NOTES  OF  A  TRIP  FROM  ST.  PAUL  TO  PEMBINA  AND  SELKIRK 
SETTLEMENT  ON  THE  RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH 


•      By  J.  WESLEY  BOND 

♦  .. 


No.   148    LAKE    STREET,   C  H  IC  A  (^Z  ILLINOIS 
CHARLES    DESILVER 

No.  263    MAKKKT    STKKKT,   I'fi f LADKLPHIA 

1850. 


FGob-h'// 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856,  by 

KEEN    A    LEE, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Northern 

District  of  Illinois. 


c^\n 


"nu.^^^^ 


3 


7/ 


TO 


5,  by 

e  Northern 


THE  CITIZENS  OF  MII^NESOTA, 


AS  A  TOKEN  OF  APPRECIATION  FOR  THEIR  ENTERPHISE.  INTELLIGENCE, 
AND  MORAL  WORTH,  BY  THEIR  FELLOW-CITIZEN, 


The  Author. 


188160 


t  « 


PREFACE 


This  work  is  offered  as  a  brief  general  view  of  Minnesota, 
as  it  existed  prior  to  its  organization  as  a  territorial  govern- 
ment in  1849,  and  as  it  is  at  the  present  time.  As  a  guide 
to  tlie  immigrant,  and  the  tourist  in  search  of  general  infor- 
mation and  pleasure,  it  is  believed  to  contain  much  valuable 
and  interesting  knowledge. 

The  facts  and  statements  contained  in  this  work  will  be 
found  particularly  correct,  and  it  is  thought  will  meet  the  de- 
sire of  the  community  throughout  the  states  — at  least  that 
part  of  it  intending  to  remove  hither,  who  wish  a  reliable 
work  for  reference  and  information  concerning  the  many  inter- 
esting topics  pertaining  to  this  territory. 

The  style,  though  somewhat  glowing,  is  not  in  the  least 
overdrawn.  Those  familiar  with  the  country  will  admit,  on  a 
perusal,  that  the  half  has  not  been  told.  To  present  a  plain 
and  truthful  picture  has  been  my  only  aim;  and  if,  in  any 
instance,  I  have  erred,  an  absorbing  interest  in  the  cause  of 
Mmnesota  must  offer  sufficient  atoneme^^or  such  error. 


St.  Paul,  Minnesota, 
July  1,  1856. 


J.  WESLEY  BOND. 


CONTENTS. 


CiIAPTER  I. 
The  Early  Iligtory  of  Minnecota p^^,      q 

CHAPTER  IL 

tomprisiug  a  General  Geographical  and  Deacriptlve  View  of  the  Terri- 
tory,  General  Fea, urcs,  &o .^ 

CHAPTER  III. 
General  Remarks  and  Bcflcctions.-Agricultural  Adyantages.-A  Talk 
olhers         "'  ^'P^'""'^''  Mechanics,  Laborers,  Tourists,  and  all 
^'^ 62 

CHAPTER  IV. 

^climatf  *^'  ^''*^"'  "^  Minnesota.  -Adaptation  of  the  Soil  and 

68 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  St.  Louis  River  of  Lake  Superior    Laroinfn    Fnnri  a„  t 
Superior  and  Adjaceut  Country.Ist  'croixTneriel'&l!!!..':?.";.::    75 

CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Minnesota  River  Country.-The  Undino  Region  of  Nicollet  Pn.l 
-Early  Explorations.-The  Valley  Towns.-S  L&c.  .'.!!!!:    97 

CliAPTER  VIL 
The  Principal  Towns. -Si.  Paul,  and  Matters  connected  Trith  that 
Northwestern   Metropolis. -The  Press,  Churches.  &c.- Obituary 
Notice  of  Jamea  M.  Goodhue voiiuary 

CHAPTER  VIIL 

Principal  Towns,  continued. -St.  Anthony,  Stillwater,  &c 149 

CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Agricultural  Resources  of  the  Territory,  Mamxfactures,  &o 161 

(7) 


^ 


CONTENTS. 


8 


CHAPTER  X. 

CHAPTER  XL 
Steamboftt  and  Rirer  I.ade,  &c 


m.     T  ..  CHAPTER  XII. 

ihe  Indian  Tribes— Sioux  rhJr.^-- . 

^loux,  Cliippewas,  and  Winnebagoes 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
The  Sioux  Treaty  of  1851.-SchooIs.  Courts, 


Miscellaneous  Matters. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


191 


198 


Roads,  &o 214 


226 


CHAPTER  XV 

Conclusion.-A  Vision:  Scene  in  St  Pnni  t  '    . 
all  of  which  I  saw,  and  part "f  thlrw/all  ^'^'"^  ^ears  hence; 

^  ^^^'^^  "^e  all  expect  to  be '  243 


s 


The  Outward  March, 


SKETCHES  BY  A  CAMP-Fire. 
CHAPTER  I. 


The  Homeward  March. 


CHAPTER  II, 


256 


296 


Letters  from  Pembi 


CHAPTER  III. 


-Table  of  Distance,  fr™  tl^r/.^t  t"""""  «'«'™»« 


ina  S 
North 


Prince  Rupert's  Land^— Thn  tt   ^      , 


316 


Notice  of  Hennepin  Countv 

The  Owatanna  River„        ^ S88 

Steele  County..  384 

Interesting StatistVcs.-AnP;'j,Vr-V--""-  386 
Sales  of  Public  T ««;?<.»*, IV'* of th«        / 

^""'  "I  umclals  of  tlie  GenprnVH:,' ""^  I      S'^ce  1848-Prp-SWi       °  Minnosota        / 

mont  in  Minnesota  TerXv                '  o.o        ''^''^"■-UmST,'!^''''^  «P«o 
Nortiiorn  Minnesota ....!..    °'^ 363       ducements  to  Sp  fi'rL**l.*'°"7--In^ 


365 

Business  Of  .St'?i:,^^^^^'^T. 
ii^iory  ana  i^usiniss  of  St."  Anthony::::;  S 


uucements  to  Settle  i„M-.,^~^°" 
Land  Districts  °  ^^^  different 

rat^^r^'^^^'^i^  - 


3S6 
e  Futiire  405 


412 


<if 


8 


mnesota 173 

191 

■ 198 

214 

225 

sars  hence ; 
^ 243 

256 

296 


n  of  the 
;tlement. 
he  Pera- 
•  of  the 
315 

S88 

384 

aibitofthe 
Minnpsota       / 
Land  Spec- 

'  different 

:••••• 3S6 

be  Futjira  iio<; 

'at, Croix  "" 

4ia 


MINNESOTA  AND  ITS  RESOUBCES. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE    EARLY    HISTORY    OP    MINNESOTA. 

A  VERY  few  years  ago,  and  the  present  ten-itory  of  Minne- 

missionary  of  the  cro«    o!  Tl  ®  »  '"'^-^^Is  "  zealous 

,    ,  <         ^'^^  <^"'=«'  »r  aaventurous  traveller    hir  t,,™. 

found  their  way  to  tlie  Great  Talk  nf  ts*   11  ^,     ™ 

to  the  source  of  the  Father  rf  W,  „     >.        ,f' °"^'  """^  "™" 

f^  their  souls  {Cii::z'-^;^,t:iz 

uneumvated  and  wasted ^r".  ^f^lrT^^^^^^^^     ^ 
and^haraeter  of  the  Bed  Men  amon,  .T^ro.'lX 

Minnesota  has  indeed  hppn  "  fi,o  i.  « 

1 


10 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS   RESOURCES. 


■£tfc:- 


age  resounded  over  tl)e  flowing  stream  below — across  whose 
still,  smooth  waters,  the  soft,  sweet  sound  of  the  organ's  tones, 
?,.  the  sonorous  tolling  of  the  church-going  bell,  and  the  busy 
'  *um  of  commerce,  now  reverberate.  The  scenes  and  sights 
then  witnessed  have  disappeared  across  the  river  to  the  west- 
ward, and  suon  will  be  transferred  still  further  from  our  gaze, 
and  the  home,  the  hunting-grounds,  and  even  the  very  graves 
of  the  Indians  will  be  obliterated  for  ever. 

The  two  fierce  tribes  which  now  inhabit  our  territory,  the 
Chippewas  of  the  old  Algonquin  stock,  and  their  inveterate 
and  hereditary  enemies,  the  equally  fierce  and  more  numerous 
Sioux,  have  for  ages  waged  an  exterminating  warfare  — one 
which  is  well-known  spares  neither  age,  sex,  nor  condition. 
Our  fair  land  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a  Thermopylae  though 
on  a  smaller  scale,  and  the  fierce  clangor  of  the  hand-to-hand 
combat  has  resounded  far  and  wide.  Here  thousands  of  the 
brave  sons  of  the  forest  have  met  death  uncomplainingly  and 
sung  their  last  wail  of  despair  and  agony  amid  untold  horrors. 

Their  smoking  blood  has  enriched  many  a  now  fertile  field 

as,  like  that  of  Lancaster,  it  sunk  into  the  ground,  when  it 
should  have  mounted  and  cried  aloud  for  vengeance.  That 
vengeance  has  been  meted  out  from  time  to  time  by  either 
party,  and  many  an  ensanguined  story  could  be  told  of  more 
than  Roman  heroism  — of  more  than  Spartan  valor. 

This  feud,  so  bitter,  has  descended  to  our  own  times,  and  of 
its  continued  strifes  many  of  us  have  been  reluctant  witnesses, 
while  of  its  horrors,  all  have  heard  repeatedly.  We  live  and 
move  upon  more  than  classic  ground  — ground  consecrated  by 
the  outpoured  blood  of  many  a  poor  untutored  victim— "who 
if  they  were  the  children  of  the  forest,  still  heard  the  voice  of 
their  God  in  the  morning  breeze  — they  beheld  him  in  the  dark 
cloud  that  rose  in  wrath  from  the  west— they  acknowledged 
his  universal  beneficence  in  the  setting  sun  as  he  sank  to  his 
burning  bed.     Here  they  lived  and  loved." 

In  Europe,  near  two  hundred  years  ago,  as  in  America,  at 
this  day  Minnesota,  or  what  is  now  Minnesota,  was  a  land  to- 
ward which  many  an  eye  was  turned,  and  in  regard  to  which 
fact  and  fancy  wove  a  wondrous  tale  of  interest  and  romance. 


^f. 


THE    EABLY   HISTORY    OF   MINNESOTA. 


1] 


In  consequence  of  this,  from  the  time  when  Father  Menard, 
the  devoted  Jesuit  missionary,  was  lost  in  the  forest  in  1658 
while  crossing  Kee-wee-nah  Peninsula,  and  his  sad  fate  conjec- 
tured only  from  his  cassock  and  breviary,  long  afterward  found 
preserved  as  "Medicine"  charms,  among  the  wild  Dakotas 
of  our  territory,  down  to  the  time  when  Schoolcraft,  in  1832, 
traced  our  giant  Mississippi  —  a  giant  more  wonderful  than 
the  hundred-aimed  Briareus — to  its  origin  in  the  gushing 
fountains  of  Itasca  lake,  Minnesota  has  continued  a  favorite 
field  of  reserch. 

Here  Hennepin  in  1680,  was  first  to  break  the  silence  of 
these  northern  wilds  with  a  Avhite  man's  voice,  in  giving  to  the 
foaming  waters  of  St.  Anthony's  falls,  their  baptismal  name  in 
honor  of  his  patron  saint.  Here  was  the  scene  of  his  captivity 
among  the  M'day-wah-kaun-twan  Dakotas,  and  here  he  ex- 
peiienccd  the  compassion  and  protection  of  Wah-zee-koo-tay, 
the  great  Nahdawessy  chief. 

Here  too,  not  very  long  afterward.  Baron  La-Hontan,  jour- 
neyed ;  and   in  this  territory,  that  ron.ance  of  geography,  his 

La  Longue  Riviere,  had  its  location  and  due  western  course 

the  creature  of  La-Hontan's  imagination,  or  rather  of  truth 
and  fable  curiously  interwoven  and  intermingled. 

More  reliable  than  eitlier,  the  gallant  Le  Sueur,  a  brave,  en- 
terprising, and  truthful  spirit,  in  1700  explored  the  sky-colored 
water  of  the  St.  Peter's  to  its  Blue  Earth  tributary,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  his  log  fort  L'Hullier,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mahn- 
kahto,fivBi  b  -oke  the  virgin  soil  of  our  territory  with  the  spade 
and  pick-axe,  in  delving  for  copper  ore,  tons  of  which,  or  a 
green  earth  supposed  to  be  the  ore  of  that  metal,  he  had  con- 
veyed to  his  native  France.     He  it  was,  also,  who  appears  to 
have  been  the  first  white  man  or  trader,  that  supplied  the 
"Sioux"  and  "Aiavvis"  (loways)  with  fire-arms  and  other 
products  of  civilized  labor ;  and  to  his  truthful  and  generally 
accurate  Journal,  we  are  likewise  indebted  for  the  best  statis- 
tics we  possess  of  the  early  history  of  the  Dakota  race,  which 
then,  fully  a  century  and  a  half  a^  >,  as  now,  occupied  the 
greater  portion  of  our  territory. 

Following  Le  Sueur,  after  a  considerable  interval,  came  Cap 


19 


MINNESOTA  AND  ITS   BESOUBOBS. 


tdn  JmatUn  Carver  In  1766,  and  however  c^ttravagant  we 
may  regard  some  of  his  statements,  and  however  discredUaWe 

nelr^alf  Z  r  hT^"  ™^""  """""^  »'--•  '-'"S 
nearly  all  the  inhabited  portion  of  Minnesota,  and  the  verv 

ot  gift  fiom  the  Indians,  still  wo  mnst  concede  him  to  have 
been  an  adventurer  of  no  mean  eonrage  and  enterprise  ai^d 
his  narrative  a  valnablo  link  in  the  ehahi  of  „„r  earfy  LI 

cratt,  N.colle.  and  Fremont,  long  and  Keating,  have  visited 

sMnJ"  ;;  wh    f '..    r^     "  "  ^''P'""""''  '»  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi,   of  which  he  has  presented  so  admirable  a  narrative 

whicl,  marked  h.m  throughout  a  glorious  career,  until  his  man 

ot  BIS  country  s  flag,  on  the  plains  of  Canada. 

Ihese  are  our  records-these  in  part,  our  historiographers 
Their  works  form  stepping-stones,  across  at  least  thaf  pS 
of  the  river  of  time,  which,  in  this  region,  for  about  two  h^d  ed 
years,  has  rolled  its  tide  occasionally  within  view  of  the  whUe 
r/to  clt  ^u;''  '-''""'■  "  ''  ""'  ""'^"^  -  ^-'^  '0  W 

what*"  drflT't?  \''^}'  P^P"'"  "'  "<"  "=^"^-  though  some- 
what difficult  to  embody  in  a  tangible  or  reliable  foi     Not 

a  foot  of  ground  that  we  tread,  but  has  been  trod  by  nations 

before  us     Wild  tribes  of  men  have  marched  thefr  armi" 

foul  "  7      "'  ""?  '"™'  ""'^  fields-fierce  battle,  have  been 
fought,  where  ere  long  churches  may  rear  their  spires-our 
ploughshares  may  turn  fui-rows  amidst  the  graves  of  b.ried 
races,  and  our  children  play  perhaps,  wherf  genera  ions  o^ 
children  havo  played  centuries  before  them.^  Dakorand 
Q  ibway,  Shiann  and  Ausinabwaun,  Winnebago  and     oway 
O^aukie  and  Musquakie,  each,  in  turn  or  togfther  dwIT 
he  laiid,  hunted  and  warred  through  it,  migrafed  t^  and     om 
It.     When  the  first  Jesuit  missionary,  one  hundred  and  !il.i 
years  ago,  visited  Lake  Superior,  ho';:„,ind  th^  nhtl,"""!!! 
Sioux  engaged  in  that  war,  which  has  continued  withhuUitti; 


'It 

1    ! 


THB   EAKI.Y    illKToRY    oF    MINNESOTA. 


13 


•avagant  we 
iscreditable 
iS,  including 
:d  the  very 
ended  deed 
im  to  have 
Jrprise,  and 
irly  annals, 
ind  School- 
ave  visited 
c  Zebulon 
Upper  Mia- 
I  nan-ative, 
irmination, 
il  his  man- 
lie  triumph 

ographers. 
at  portion 

0  hundred 
the  white 
'  to  lessen 

igh  some- 
'rm.  Not 
y  nations 
ir  armies 
lave  been 
res — our 
)f  buried 
itions  of 
tota  and 

1  loway, 
dwelt  in 
md  from 
d  ninety 

)ut  little 


^itermission  nearly  to  the  present  time.     How  long  before— 
for  how  many  centuries  previous— this  contest  was  waged,  we 
know  not— the  records  are  dim,  the  traditions  vague  and  un- 
certain.    But  we  do  know  that,  from  the  St.  Oroix  to  the  Mille 
Lacs,  the  ancient  home  of  the  M'day-wah-kauntwaun  Sioux 
whose  rich  maple  bottoms  are  a  Golgotha  of  hostile  bones,' 
through  all  the  midland  hunting-grounds  to  Lake  Superior, 
and  northwest  by  wild  rice-shallows  to  the  fertile  lands  of  lied 
lake  (whose  waters  have  so  often  drunk  blood  from  battles  on 
Its  shores  as  to  have  gained  the  ensanguined  cognomen  which 
we  mildly  translate  "  Red"),  we  can  trace  the  terrible  results 
of  this  warfare  of  the  Algonquin  and  Dakota  races— a  war- 
fare which  in  its  results  completed  that  general  disruption  of 
all  the  old  geographical  relations  of  the  various  tribes  of  Min- 
nesota.  which  the  Dakotas,  perhaps,  were  the  first  to  disar- 
range, when  they  located  on  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

The  incidents  of  this  war— the  battles,  where  fought— the 
victories,  where  and  by  whom  won-the  councils  held,  and 
alliances  formed-the  advances,  the  retreats,  and  the  final  con- 
quests-are among  the  inquiries  not  unworthy  of  instituting. 
Ihe  character  of  this  work  prevents,  at  this  stage,  a  further 
commentary  on  these  inquiries ;  therefore  I  close  this  chapter 
with  a  brief  review  of  Minnesota  since  its  first  settlement  and 
organization. 

Previous  to  the  admission  of  Wisconsin  as  a  state,  all  that 
part  of  the  territory  east  of  the  Mississippi  was  a  part  of  Wis- 
consin territory.     After  the  admission  of  Wisconsin  as  a  state, 
there  was  a  considerable  population  here  without  any  govern- 
ment.     Hon.  John  Catlin.  secretary  of  the  territory  of  Wis- 
consin  came  up  here,  believing  that  this  was  th'en  the  terri- 
ory  of  Wisconsin,  and  that  the  duties  of  governor  devolved 
upon  him  (the  governor  of  the  old  territory  having  accepted 
an  office  under  the  new  state  of  Wisconsin),  and  issued  a  proc- 
J.nnation  ordering  an  election  for  delegate  to  the  house  of  rep- 
resentatives  of  the  United  States.     This  election  was  held 

,:,  ""=  ""'='  piuuiinent  Bieu  in  the  teiTitorv— were  the 
c»«.Wate,.     Mr.  Sibley  w„s  elected.     He  went  L  to  Wash! 


14 


(J 


« 


Sil 


MINICESOTA    AND  ITS   BMOUEOBe. 


ington  city,  and,  after  some  little  difficulty,  was  allowed  to 

ttitu::;!' """ '° "'"-' "  '"^  ""--''-^  ^^^  p-p>' «? 

On  the  third  day  of  March,  18W,  the  last  day  of  the  session 
of  Congress,  the  territory  of  Minnesota  was  organised  O^ 
the  „e.t  day  General  Taylor's  presidential  term  commenced" 

for  til  r    r^'  ^^Vr^'"'  ■"=  "^^"'"""^  "'O  (""o^^^e  officers 
for  the  territory:  Alexander  Ramsey,  governor,  C  K  Smith 

secretary ,  A.  Goodrich,  ehief-jnstice'^;  !nd  B.  B.  Meeke'rld' 

l)av  d  Cooper,  associate  justices  of  the  supreme  court  of  Mia. 

t",     \"-^^-  ^""'  ^""^'J  States  dish-ict  attorney     aLd 
Joshua  L.  Taylor,  United  States  marshal.     Mr.  Ta^^r  de- 

meTt  the  o^r       «  ^''"fy  «'-"™d  ^ooa  after  his  appoint- 
te  a1     f  ®°™''"""'  P'-'"=>«™«d  tl'e  organization  of  the 

Mr  S!mI       ^'1        ,  "''"""y-  '"'•  "  •''^'"e""'  *o  Congress. 
Mr  Stbley  w,-,,  elected  to  Congress  without  opposition. 

An  election  was  held  in  November  of  that  year  (1849)  for 
county  officers  created  by  the  assembly,  which  had  fust  al 
jonrned ;  but  the  next  regular  election  for  all  officerrinclu 
dn>g  a  delegate  to  Congress,  was  held  on  the  first  Monday  of 
September,  1850.  A,  M.  Mitchell  and  Henry  H.  Sibley  were 
the  candidates  for  Comri-pss     M,.  o-i,i  oiuiey  were 

Cnln„»r  m;  1    11     ^""816*8.     Mr.  Sibley  was  successful,  and 
Colonel  Mitchell  resigning,  Henry  L.  Tilden,  Esq.  (no^  de- 

tTt)ZT  '\  T""""-  *''■•  '^'"'1-'  -"^  -»>oved  il  the 
fall  of  1851,  and  Joseph  W.  Furber,  speaker  of  the  first  house 
of  represematives,  was  appointed  in  his  place.  A.  Van  W 
bies  and  N.  Greene  Wilcox,  filling  the  offices  of  register  and 
receiver  01  the  land-office  at  Stillwater,  were  remold  bt  the 
adminis  ration  that  appointed  them  in  the  summer  of  ml 
when  Allen  Pierse  and  Jonathan  E.  M-Kusick  were  appo  nted 
f;neir  successors.  i>i>^iuma 

remo  "',1  \^""'"^''  "'"  ''"''  ^'^""'"y  "^  «'«  '^rritory,  was 
removed  by  he  same  administration  in  the  fall  of  1851  3 
Alexander  Wilkm  received  the  vacant  office.  Chief,Tu,"ce 
-aiu.  Goodrich  was  likewise  superseded  about  the  same  time 


"'':*« 


THE   KAKLY   HISTUKY   OF   MINNESOTA. 


16 


allowed  to 
e  people  of 

'  the  session 
nized.     On 
iommenced, 
nng  officers 
'.  K.  Smith, 
teeker  and 
art  of  Min- 
rney;    and 
laylor  de- 
appointed 
s  appoint- 
irst  day  of 
iion  of  the 
n  of  mem- 
Congress, 
on. 

(1849)  for 
i  just  ad- 
ers,  inclu- 
[onday  of 
bley  were 
ssful,  and 
(now  de- 
id  in  the 
rst  house 
an  Voor- 
ister  and 
id  by  the 
of  1852, 
ppointed 

ory,  was 
351,  and 
P-Jufltice 
me  time 


by  tlie  appointment  of  Jerome  Fuller,  Esq.,  editor  of  the  Alhany 
Jicgister ;  but  the  United  States  senate  of  1852  rejecting  his 
confirmation,  Henxy  Z.  Hayner,  Esq.,  of  Troy,  New  York,  re- 
ceived the  "  ermine,"  which  he  wore  until  removed  by  the 
incoming  administration  of  General  Pierce. 

Prior  to  the  organization  of  the  territory,  Major  Murphy 
tilled  the  station  of  agent  for  the  Dakota  or  Sioux  Indians, 
Dr.  Livermore  for  the  Chippewas,  and  General  Fletcher  for 
the  Winnebagoes,  all  of  whom  were  subsequently  superseded 
by  General  Taylor ;  and  Nathaniel  M'Lean  as  Sioux  agent, 
J.  S.  Watrous  as  Chippewa  agent,  and  A.  M.  Fridley  as  Win 
nobago  agent,  were  the  successive  incumbents.  A  new  land 
office  having  been  established  by  Congress  in  Benton  county, 
in  1852,  Reuben  W.  Richardson  and  Charles  Christmas  were 
appointed  receiver  and  register  thereof.  Charles  J.  Henniss 
and  Charles  Cavileer  were  appointed  collectors  of  United 
States  customs,  the  first  at  Saint  Paul,  the  latter  at  Pembina,  on 
the  Red  river  of  the  North,  the  boundary-line  between  the 
United  States  and  British  North  America. 

The  first  legislative  assembly  convened  in  1849  held  its  ses- 
sion at  the  Central  house,  on  the  second  day  of  September, 
and  David  Olmsted,  Esq.,  was  chosen  president  of  the  council, 
and  J.  W.  Furber,  Esq.,  speaker  of  the  house.  The  second 
session  commenced  on  the  7th  of  January,  1851,  in  the  brick 
building  now  known  as  the  '•  Rice  House,"  and  continued  in 
session  ninety  days  in  order  to  forr«.  a  code  of  laws.  The 
councillors,  being  elected  for  two  years,  of  course  held  over ; 
but  the  house,  being  new  members,  elected  l\l.  E.  Ames,  Esq., 
speaker,  while  the  council  chose  David  L.  Loomis,  Esq.,  presi- 
dent. The  code  was  formed  chiefly  from  the  present  prac- 
tising code  of  New  York. 

The  third  session  convened  in  a  brick  building  belonging  to 
Judge  Goodrich,  on  the  first  Wednesday  in  January,  1852, 
and  Hon.  W.  H.  Forbes  was  chosen  president  of  the  council, 
and  Hon.  John  D.  Ludden  speaker  of  the  house,  both  of  whom 
were  members  of  the  former  legislative  assembly,  re- elected. 
The  fourth  session  convened  on  tlie  fifth  day  of  January,  1853, 
and  Hon.  Martin  M'Leod  was  chosen  president  of  the  council, 


1« 


limNEHOTA    AND    ITS    RE^OVHCKS. 


m 


and  Hon.  David  hay  speaker  of 


the  house,  both 


ola  ...embers  .e-elceted      Tl  .  •    ""'  ^"'^  "^  «'''»■"  ''^re 

-Bcnhly  was  t.     2ti„^':/r'  .".portant  feature  of  .hi, 

i'.  l^M,  the  Ii.„it»  „f  th  '  1  T"""""""""  of  the  Sioux  treaty 
Mi.«i„»i,,,,i  river.  It  "  .Tf """  ?''"'""  ^''^"»''  "'" 
Nile,  l^i;,g  inyiJllTLl  f  f "' "^  """■-f«"'«d 
olo^es  «I.o  l,i.t„ry,*„  f:"t  listr-^  ^°'°™  •"•  '^''''^  »'™' 
«"-e.l.  up  to  thf  present  tJrairtl""'"f'!""'^  '"  f- 
Prefaee  to  this  great  work.  P""'  '^°™'»«  l-"'  « 

I.,  closing  this  imperfect  sketcli  nf  .I,«   .• 
past,  an  allusion  perhaps  ou^ht  .„t  ""  """^  "'""'"'■'y 

of  tU  Minnesota  His^riTal  S    iert  5°  *«  -e--"'iou 
the  early  history  of  the  tJuT     %~^  "mportant  event  in 

«tod  much  to  m[ke  i  wide  V  a,  J'f'"'*  ?,"  T'"'"''  *"«'  '»»'"»'- 
tie  Union.  ^  *'"'  favorably  known  throughout 

eu;:eL::^i:mr;;Ttf  ;:ir, "  r^  "-"■'^  -  «- 

<^a;«,Wy  should  have  bin  r"^!  elsewhere,  that  an  Ms,a,i. 
a  year  after  its  orgalatn  Te:  :",""  """"^'  '-«  «- 
bnt  a  few  „,onths  fid  "Ten  The  " '■  ""^  ""°  ^arently 
-"■ound  us;  when  the  smoke  of  IndiuTr  ""''  "'  "  '^  y"*^ 
our  view  of  the  horizon  ;  whef  „' r  ve.  v  ^  "'*'  '""  ""'^-Pted 
men  disputed  as  to  its  ortWra"  "  V/""'  ^"^  '"  "'"'''•■»' 
testing  its  literal  meanbg    ^    '^^'  ""'  ^"""^'^  Pities  in  co„- 

"  ■*"  ^lalorical  society  in  a  land  /.f  .     .     i 
nouncement  woulu  indeed  natu  all  v^""^  '     ^"'^  ■">  «- 
incredulity  and  wonder  Tn  tte.!?^  '?'"'  "  "'"  *'■»'  S'""'". 
be  exclaimed,  -The  eoumry     hll  t    """'•     ^'"  ""^'■'  " 
h.story;'  with  force  could  iH  ,  ""  P<"'' <='"^  have  no 

-*  ?■  and  if  we  even    ad   Li"  ^    \ ,'  "^'^^  »^^  ^"^  - 
it  we,-e  still  demanded  ■wtaTllLr'^  ":' '"'  ™'J'™'"g  'f 

-cord  ?  what  «eg„tiati;ns  ir  t  egrsuZ  :,T"  '°^^'"^ 
aits  or  intellect  could  thev  r.T  .,  f  *""'  '  "*""  Progress  in 
gather  figs  from  thorns  lrI,C'f  ''  'f  l""'' '-'  ^''"'''  'hou 

"  True!  pertinent  r'-'  ^    '^       """  ""'^""^ '' 
P-  as  »„„„  q„e„„,  „ig.,., 


f  whom  were 
ftture  of  this 
ies  from  the 


THE   EARLY    HISTORY    OF   MINNESOTA. 


17 


3  shado'jry 
ganizatioii 
It  event  in 
as  contrib- 
hroughout 

g  our  own 
an  kistori- 
less  tlian 
pparently 
it  is  yet, 
tercepted 
new,  that 
5s  in  coii- 

■h  an  an- 
t  glance, 
might  it 
have  no 
rour  rcc- 
rising-  if 
possibly 
?ress  in 
St  thou 

verthe- 


less  they  would  be  dictated  by  error— they  would  be  founded 
in  great  misapprehension :  for  Minnesota  has  a  history,  and 
that  not  altogether  an  unwritten  one,  which  can  unravel  many 
a  page  of  deep,  engrossing  interest ;  which  is  rich  in  tales  of 
daring  enterprise,  of  faithful  endurances,  of  high  hopes ;  which 
is  marked  by  the  early  traveller's  footprints,  and  by  the  an- 
cient  explorer's  pencil;  which  is  glowing  with  the  myths  and 
traditions  of  our  aboriginal  race,  sprinkled  over  with  their 
battle-fields,  with  the  sites  of  their  ancient  villages,  and  with 
the  wah-Jcuun  stones  of  their  teeming  mythology." 

The  society  was  organized  by  act  of  legislature  in  1849,  and 
holds  its  meetings  in  January  of  each  year.  Among  its  mem- 
bers are  some  of  the  leading  minds  of  this  country,  as  well  as 
every  influential  citizen  of  the  territory.  Through  the  unre- 
mitting labors  of  Ihe  Rev.  E.  D.  Neill,  the  secretary  of  the 
society,  much  useful  and  interesting  information  and  collec- 
tions have  been  obtained.  The  annals  of  the  society  are  pub- 
lished each  year,  comprising  all  the  papers  written  for  the 
uses  of  historical  research.  Five  of  these  valuable  publica- 
tions have  been  issued  already  at  the  expense  of  the  associ- 
ation. 

The  object  of  the  society  is  "  the  collection  and  preservation 
ol  a  library,  mineralogical  and  geological  specimens,  Indian 
curiosities,  and  other  matters  and  things  connected  with,  and 
calculated  to  illustrate  and  perpetuate  the  history  and  settle- 
ment of,  the  territory  ;"  and  the  secretary  is  required  "  to  keep 
a  register  of  each  donation,  stating  from  whom  obtained,  on 
what  conditions,  and  other  items  of  interest  connected  there- 
with ;  and  shall  report  the  condition  of  the  library  and  cabinet 
at  each  annual  meeting." 

"  It  is  a  mark  of  wisdom  thus  to  write  up  the  history  of  a 
country  from  the  titlepage,  that  in  after-times,  when  '  childish 
things  are  put  away,'  and  *  by  St.  Paul  the  work'  of  civiliza- 
tion 'goes  bravely  on,'  the  growth  of  that  new  empire  upon 
western  waters  may  be  all  mapped  out  beneath  the  eye  of 
posterity,  from  its  infant-like  creepings  upon  the  greensward  of 
bt^AnJionj^  to  tne  stately  steppings  wherewith  it  approached 
the  door  of  the  Union,  and  demanded  admittance  as  a  state." 


18 


MtNNKSirrA    AND    ITS    HEBOtROES. 


-  £Lr„^;-  :-:;;r;  'i:ii;r :?  ;;r  ii "- 

At   1,0  a„,„ml  bu»i„e»8  meeting  l.old  i„  January   'sf/'.l 

Alex.  Kamsev,  President  ; 
Bavid  Olmsted,  Vice  President; 

t».  vv.iioND,  Irensurer; 

Rev  Edward  D.  Neill.  Secretary. 

T  ,-f  f'^f  ^  """'^''■'  '"^'"^^  ^""'^^«<i  Honomrj,  one  hundred 
Life,  and  about  two  hundred  resident  or  annual  members  T^« 
payment   of   twenty-fivo   dollars    constitutes  a    ifrmembersM' 

..Capitol  square;  and^^^l^i^^^Vrero^^^^^^^^ 
laid  with""         ''  ""''^  thereon-the  corner-stone  hrng  bee„ 
1  '?.-!?^7"'*'  '"'^"'""''^  ^°  *^«  24tb  of  June,  1856 

■  In  addztioL  to  Its  regular  officers,  the  Society  elected,  in  March 
1856,  an  Fuecuthe   Council  of  twenty-five   Lmbers    for   S 
years,  m  accordance  with  an  act  of  theuJjT'T.     '  !  '^® 

An  act  was  also  passed  apprVrLti^^anUaliy^  h^^^^^^^^^^ 
be  expended  in  collecting,  embodying  ar^^J^'T  -    '  *'' 

authentic  form  a  librarv  of  ^oot;  .    ^^^°f^°g  ^nd  preserving  in 

of   te  early  o,o»e™  to  obtain  and  preserve  narratives  of  theiH^ 
incidental 'expenses  of  the  Sodety'         '"  '"'""^         "'"'""^ 


^ 


OEOORAPHICAL  AND  OKNEUAL  FEATURES. 


19 


ifiaiiB  of  our 
lollar  to  tlio 
copy  of  tlie 
pors,  &c. 
y.  .'854,  the 
ext  ensuing 


It. 


ne  hundred 
jbers.  The 
lembership. 
I;  snffioieot 
two  lots  on 
ment  to  the 
aving  been 
856. 

•  in  March, 
for  three 
Assembly. 
>f  3500,  to 
^serving  in 
Tta,  raanu- 
illustrative 
e  memory 
'  their  ex- 
jtatements 
ur  Indian 
id  present 
f  such  of 
a  time  to 
ts  books, 
necessary 


I 


CHAPTER   II. 

COMPRISING  A  GENERAL  GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  VIEW 
OF  THE  TERRITORY,  GENERAL  FEATURES,  ETC. 

The  ten-itory  of  Minnesota,  as  organized  by  the  act  of  Con- 
gress of  March  3,  1849,  is  an  extensive  region,  being  about 
four  times  as  large  as  the  state  of  Ohio,  and  is  six  hundred  and 
seventy-five  miles  in  extent  from  its  southeastern  to  its  north- 
western  border.     It  extends  from  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Croix 
rivers  and  the  western  extremity  of  Lake  Superior  on  the  east, 
to  the  Missouri  and  White-Earth  rivers  on  the  west,  a  distance 
of  over  four  hundred  miles ;  and  from  the  Iowa  line  (latitude 
43°  30')  on  the  south,  to  the  British  line  (latitude  49^^)  on  tl  e 
north,  also  a  distance  of  over  four  hundred  miles—the  whole 
comprising  an  area  of  166,000  square  miles,  or  106,000  000 
7T  .J"^  °"^P°i»t  »l«"g  the  northern  boundary,  viz.,  Lake 
of  the  WooQS,  the  line  extends  to  latitude  50°— a  fact  not  gen- 
erally  known  — while  on  the  southwestern  part  it  extends  for 
seventy  miles  below  the  Iowa  line,  to  the  junction  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  Sioux  rivers,  in  latitude  42°  30';  thus  running  throujjh 
seven  and  a  half  degrees  of  latitude,  or  a  distance  due  north 
ot  live  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles. 

Almost  the  whole  of  this  is  a  fine  rolling  prairie  of  rich  soil, 
a  sandy  loam,  adapted  to  the  short  summers  of  the  climate, 
and  which  produce  bounteously,  nay  luxuriantly.  The  surface 
of  he  country,  excepting  the  Missouri  plains,  is  interspersed 
with  mimerous  beautiful  lakes  of  fresh  water-all  abounding 
^n  the  finest  fish,  and  their  banks  covered  with  a  fine  growth 
of  woodland      The  land  is  about  equally  divided  between  oak- 

Z "^"  ^r  P;""-^""'  ^ne  wiiole  well  watered  by  numerous 

Btreams  navigable  for  steamers. 


20 


MlNNiaoTA   AND   m   KE8OUK0E8. 


....  ,j| 


length).  w,„  ,„e  fa^o,;: Ted"  L       nl:  'C:""$; .-"-  ^ 
one  hundred  miles  bevond      1  ^'^ ''"'""^^"*«' 

mouth  of  the  Bois  de  Sioux  fn^ZT?       ^""'^^  ^'^"^  *^^« 
same  point  to  St  An^ho  ;"Ld  s^P^^^^^^^^^^^  'T  ''^ 

the  Mississippi.     Anothp,  V  V     ^"""^  ''''^''^^  ^"^ 

tLis  :  I  have  been    ,.•,         •""•  '"^  "''''"''""  """•"""■ile  at 

country  „„d  ak^wl  wr™'''v''  '  '"™^  "''"'^ 

once  liought  ou,     !,;'„„.-.?"''■''",''''  '"''  "•"^"""■^^  "'""' 
6       m.    j.et  no  „„u  ihiDK  the  great  tide  of  immi- 


'  .1 

If 


OlXKiUAlMllCAL    AND    OhNKUAL    FEATUIJKH. 


81 


^  the  Missis- 
vo  pino  and 
r  centuries ; 
utary  of  the 
5r,  fifty  miles 

watered  by 
I  river,  emp- 
fioutli.    Tho 
Hieasterly  a 
iinptios  into 
ve  St.  Paul, 
3  is  one  of 
pi,  and  the 
Jalubrity  of 
ited  States, 
it  almost  to 
Bcts  it  from 
of  tlie  lat- 
y  miles  in 
■'his  stream 
lie  Bois  de 
3ttlement8, 
Winnipeg, 
eventually 
Minnesota 
states  be- 
B  from  the 

from  the 
apids  and 
»oint  with 
one  lake ; 
theasterly 
Dubuque, 
r  smile  at 
jions  here 
ey  of  the 
ces  when 
of  immi- 


gration will  confine  itHelf  to  the  banks  of  the  MissigHippi  and 
Minnesota  rivers ;  on  the  contrary,  the  whole  interior  to  the 
north  and  west  of  these  two  streams  will  soon  bo  peopled,  and 
thickly  peopled  too. 

The  only  interruption  to  the  navigation  of  the  Lower  Min- 
nesota river  in  dry  seasons  is  what  are  called  the  "  Rapids," 
some  forty  miles  above  its  mouth.  Tl's  is  a  ledge  of  sand- 
stone rock,  extending  across  the  stream,  and  will  soon  be  re- 
moved. 

The  Mississippi  above  St.  Anthony  is  navigable  an  almost 
indefinite  distance  to  the  north ;  and  the  steamer  "  Governor 
Kanisey"  has  already  been  running  in  the  trade  above  the 
falls  for  four  years,  as  far  as  the  Sauk  rapids  (eighty  miles), 
which,  with  the  Little  falls  (forty  miles  beyond),  are  the  main 
obstacles  in  a  navigation  of  over  four  hundred  miles  from  St 
Anthony  to  the  falls  of  the  Pokegama.     St.  Croix  lake  and 
river  are  navigable  to  the  falls,  sixty  miles  above  the  junction 
of  the  lake  and  Mississippi;  and  the  St.  Louis  river  is  naviga- 
ble from  Lake  Superior  twenty  miles  to  Fond  du  Lac.     Nu- 
merous other  streams  are  navigable  for  light-draught  steamers 
and  flat-boats  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  miles,  penetrating  into 
the  interior  to  the  pineries,  and  giving  easy  access  into  the 
country  m  all  directions.     These  are  the  Blue-Earth,  Rum, 
Llk,  Sauk,  Crow,  Crow-wiug,  Vermilion,  Cannon,  and  others. 

On  the  northeastern  border  of  t'ae  territory  is  Lake  Supe- 
rior, with  its  valuable  fisheries  and  its  shores  abounding  in 
inexhaustible  mince  of  copper,  coal,  iron,  &c.,  besides  afford- 
ing us  the  facility  of  that  vast  inland  sea  for  immigration  and 
commerce. 

The  Great  Father  of  Waters  too-the  mighty  Mississippi- 
after  rising  in  Itasca  lake,  in  the  northern  portion  of  the  terri- 
tory, flows  by  a  devious  cou-e  for  some  eight  hundred  miles 
through  the  eastern  part,  and  below  the  mouth  of  the  St  Croix 
forms  the  dividing  line  between  us  and  Wisconsin  for  some 
two  hundred  more  to  the  Lnva  line.  This  mighty  river  gives 
us  the  whole  lower  valley  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico  for  a  never- 
ceasing  market  for   our   ap-rioillfiirnl    «""''"—    -vr  1 V  1 

our  manufactures  ;  for,  with  the  unlimited  water-power  at  nu- 


I 


22 


:,i,i 


MINNESOTA   AND  ITS   KESOUliCES. 


n:ty,  and  that  tC^JV^^^^^^^^^^^^  co..u- 

"ot  be  dependent  in  a  measu  e  on  .7    m        '''^^^  ^""^>^  ^"1 
^re  all  so  justly  prond  ''  Minnesota,  of  which  we 

ro^^rz::^:-^  r  f i  ^^-^^-^  -  --^--  or 

«PO'^k  of  it;  I  am  notVitCibr  1"'  vT  ^.'^"'"^  *^  ^^^" 
very  silly  as  to  believe  Inv  n  11  1  "^^^^^^^^n  of  people  so 
nil +1  ,  ^^"^ '^"y  such  Lunibiio-o-Afv     w^ 

all  tlic  cci-eal  grains  — winter  wh^.t  .i  ^'  "  '""  S''"" 
ai.d  as  a  grazing  count, 1-/.  ".    "'"■"  "'"""S  "«>  rest; 

<>"<'  shoe '  and !,  It  f 0  r;:  rr'^  ■"'  ■"''"'""''•  <^^-^'"e 

and  ean  be  pio,l„ccd  in  nffi  ,       '  ""■"  """''^  ''"'■'"''y  I'eve, 

states.  Tlio^vWonce  rfa.::/  ''T7  °f  Perfection,  a,  in  the 
tion  to  this  brancrof  Ltinr-  ",  "•'  '""*''  "'""•  «««■'- 
'I.eir  past  cxpe>ie„co  n  t^  tft  "  ""'^  '""^  P"'''™''  "™  ^7 
success  while  here  '"''  '=°""-'"">d  with  then-  great 

-"v/'t^pCr^p-rrat  ot"'  ^.^«'°«»-  o™  ^«» 

doubled.     There  is  ,JT-    \         '  """"■gi'ation,  will  see  it 

roat  Northwe!:  l7ZZu:::f"  T-'""^  ""'"^  "'■  "- 
tenitory,  i„,„eJiaUi^  afJt  il^  """''^f' ""-  in  which  a 
with  such  rapidity,  LiilC  JT-"^-  ''"^  ''e<'"  'Ot'led 
have  sprung'ip  a^ost  as"it  w  '  a  'tbrf  'f^;  ''"'""'^  '«- 
cr's  wand.  The  whole  his  orv  of!  !  '"''  "^  '"""'  <'»<=''"«- 
by  t..at  of  California,  a^d'  t  ,^t  'o  l^  tXZ  H™'^  "'■■''^^'' 
of  numbers  which  gold  (the  fi„rf  „f  ""'''<'"  accession 

family)  has  drawn  foget  Ir  Sf  °  "'"f  ''""''  "^  *''«>  '■■•">«„ 
most  discordant  materia  from  tVf  "'^''  '"aelstrom-the 
I"  .eal  agricultural  lZmV:ilT\''''"'r'''  ""^  g'*«' 
eontented  character  of  an  win,  "/"'■''"""l  "'°  ''appy  and 
all  the  elements  which  g:  etv1.t' r'";'"'""-'"  "'™''  '» 
and  constitute  the  ^J^J^^ol'  T"'"  "^"P^ofe- 
fer^very  far,  in  the  backfro^d  ^''-X^- California  ia 

wake  up  to  n,orr„w  and  ti:d  hi'lhT;  0^;^^^ ""°'-  -^^ 
vi^auone,  in  a  fair  tr^in  f..  „„-7"        ^'..^"-^^^tles.and 


am  for  speedy  reah'z£ 


anti- 


! 


tion;  and  others. 


:'-'%i. 


not  destined 
tunl  commu- 
>i  valley  will 

of  which  we 

venience,  or 
nee  to  even 
3f  people  so 
^0  can  grow 
ng  the  rest ; 
'ed.     Cattle 
ialthy  here, 
>n,  as  in  the 
their  atten- 
ed  this  by 
their  great 

One  year 
will  see  it 
tory  of  the 
in  which  a 
en  settled 
ling  towns 
3  enchant- 
y  eclipsed 
accession 
fie  human 
■om — the 
lie  globe. 
^PP7  and 

short,  in 
a  people, 
ifoniia  is 

5ven  the 
ler  may 
nd  anti- 
•  others, 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL  FEATURES. 


23 


il 


more  vast,  gigantic,  and  unthought  of,  treading  rapidly  on 
their  heels !  He  lives  in  a  railroad,  nay,  in  an  electric  age, 
where  action  follows,  thought,  and  the  conception  of  designs 
vast  and  mighty,  and  their  speedy  prosecution  and  completion, 
are  almost  simultaneous. 

Minnesota  has  just  entered  upon  the  eighth  year  of  her  politi- 
cal existence.      So  far  as   business  prosperity  is   concerned,   it 
promises  to  be  a  bright  one  —  brighter  than  any  that  has  pre- 
ceded it.     Navigation  has  opened,  and  boats  from  below  have 
appeared  within  our  borders  and  at  the  wharves  of  St.  Paul^ 
a  week  earlier  than  the  usual  time,  taking  one  year  with  an- 
other.    Our  merchants  and  business  men  have  been  east  and 
south  for  their  spring  and  summer  supplies,  and  are  returning 
with  stocks  much  larger  than  have  heretofore  been  brought  to 
the  territory.  -  Our  mills,  from  the  St.  Croix  to  the  Blue-Earth, 
and  for  scores  of  miles  north  and  south  along  the  former  stream 
and  the  Mississippi,  maintain  their  ceaseless  noise  and  motion 
day  and  night,  converting  the  products  of  our  rich  pine-forests 
into  building  materials  for  markets  below  and  improvements  at 
home.     In  the  towns  and  villages,  along  the  roads  and  high- 
ways and  byways  of  the  older  settlements,  and  out  upon  the 
broad  prairies,  and  by  the  shores  of  the  broad  streams  and 
margins  of  the  clear  lakes  of  the  "  Sioux  Purchase,"  the  sound 
of  the  hammer  and  the  axe  is  heard,  busy  at  improvement. 
All  is  life,  all  is  hurry,  all  is  energy,  all  is  onward,  all  is  hope. 
The  boats  from  below  come  swarming  with  hardy  adventurers 
from  other  portions  of  our  common  country,  and  from  other 
lands,  to  mingle  with  those  now  here— -to  settle  and  live  among 
us— to  be  part  and  parcel  of  us— -to  make  common  cause  and 
bide  common  destiny  here  with  those  who  have  prepared  the 
way  for  the  future  advent  of  a  mighty  and  prosperous  common- 
wealth into  the  great  American  Union. 

Minnesota  at  this  time  partakes  to  a  large  degree  of  the  gen- 
eral prosperity  now  so  happily  and  manifestly  apparent  through- 
out the  country.  I  can  see  nothing  within  her,  or  upon  the 
surface,  mdicative  of  a  reverse  of  this  agreeable  and  promising 
Btate  of  affan-s.  Her  business  people  have  not  over-traded, 
and  are  consequently  not  dangerously  in  debt.     Let  them  bo 


t 


■'1  I 


u 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS    KES0DRCE6. 


equally  cautious  at  present  and  in  the  future,  and  all  is  safe 
with  them  and  with  the  reputation  of  the  territory.     Her  farm- 
ers.  and  mechanics,  and  laboring  men  generally,  are  enterpri- 
sing and  industrious.      T/ieir  energy,  frugality,  and  perseve- 
rance, after  all,  are  the  leading  element  and  surest  guaranty  of 
lier  future  greatness  and  prosperity.     Upon  them  depends  not 
only  a  great  deal,  but  very  nearly  all.     That  tli^y  will  con- 
tinue to  address  themselves  manfully  to  the  great  task  before 
them,  of  giving  life  and  progress  to  the  new  land  of  their  adop- 
tion, we  have  an  assurance  in  the  past.     I  speak  in  no  boast- 
ful or  vainglorious  thene  when  I  say  there  is  largely  more 
cJiaracter  in  Minnesota  than  was  found  at  the  same  age  in  any 
of  the  older  western  members  of  our  republican  family.    I  know 
the  fact  from  the  experience  of  candid  men,  who  have  lived 
on  other  frontiers,  and  now  bear  testimony  in  favor  of  Minne- 
sota.    Croakers  and  grumblers  wo  may  ever  expect  to  find 
among  us —drones  and  loafers;  but  the  great  family  of  the 
hive  works  together  steadily  and  harmoniously.     They,  and 
those  who  are  to  come  after  them,  will  reap  their  reward  in  a 
glorious,  happy,  and  enviable  future. 

The  following  description  of  Minnesota,  revised  and  corrected 
IS    from    the    pen    of    the    late    and    deeply-lamented    Colonel 
James  M.  Goodhue,  editor  of  the  Minnesota  Pioneer,  an  obitu- 
ary  notice  of  whom  will  be  found  during  the  progress  of  thig 
work  : — 

'[Minnesota''  is  spelled  with  a  letter  n  at  the  end  of  the  first 
syllable,  and  a  letter  n  also  at  the  beginning  of  the  second 
•jy  liable  J  and  the  i  in  the  first  syllable  is  pronounced  short,  as 
in  pin. 

St.  Paul  is  named  for  the  old  apostle  of  the  Gentiles  him- 
seir,  and  for  him  alone ;  and  is  therefore  neither  in  the  posses- 
sive case,  signifying  that  that  respectable  apostle  either  is  or 
was  the  proprietor  of  the  town,  nor  is  it  in  the  plural,  signify- 
ing  that  there  is  more  than  one  town  of  St.  Paul ;  and  there- 
fore it  should  be  spelled  without  an  apostrophe  and  without  an 
v  at  the  end  of  the  word. 

The  St.  Peter  river  is  the  Minnesota  river,  and  has  been  for 


(UXHRAPHrCAf-    AND    GKNEUAL    FEATURKS. 


"iS 


Hid  all  is  safe 
/.     Her  fdrm- 

are  enterpri- 
and  perseve- 
t  guaranty  of 
I  depends  not 
liey  will  con- 
It  task  before 
jf  their  adop- 

in  no  boast- 
largely  more 
e  age  in  any 
lily.  I  know 
3  have  lived 
or  of  Minne- 
:pect  to  find 
amily  of  the 
They,  and 

reward  in  a 


nd  corrected, 
ited  Colonel 
er,  an  obitu- 
jress  of  thig 

1  of  the  first 

the  second 

ced  short,  as 

entiles  him- 
i  the  posses- 

either  is  or 
ral,  signily- 

and  tliere- 
l  without  an 

las  been  for 


liivo  or  six  years.  The  latter,  which  is  the  Indian  name,  is 
ai^Tced  upon  universally  as  the  appropriate  name  for  it,  the 
word  signifying  sicy-tinted  water  ;  wherefore  it  is  clearly  proper 
to  name  it  the  Minnesota,  aside  from  tke  fact  that  we  need  to 
save  what  few  names  in  the  calendar  of  saints  that  are  not 
appropriated,  for  the  brood  of  next-year  villages ;  and  St. 
I'eter  v/ill  be  wanted  to  christen  a  town  to  rival  St.  Paul. 

Minnesota  comprises  a  vast  area  —  certainly  large  enough 
for  a  state  —  extending  through  more  than  six  degrees  of  lati- 
tude, and  in  width  from  the  Missouri  on  the  west  to  the  St. 
Croix  on  the  east — that  is,  it  extends  east  of  the  Mississippi 
river.  The  portion  lying  cast  of  the  Mississippi,  or  between 
Wisconsin  and  the  Mississippi,  is  a  comparatively  narrow  seg- 
ment; and  of  the  part  over  on  the  west  side,  all  the  northern 
portion  still  belongs  to  the  Chippewa  Indians,  and  embraces 
immense  forests  of  hard  wood  and  of  pine,  through  which  the 
Mississippi  and  its  tributaries  roll  their  dark,  solitary  waters. 

In  the  north  is  Red  river,  a  sluggish,  deep  river,  navigable 
for  batteaux,  Durham  boats,  and  steamboats.  It  rises  in  Min- 
nesota, and  flows  northeast,  that  river  and  the  Mississippi 
flowing  off  in  opposite  directions,  and  the  portages  between 
their  waters  being  very  short. 

The  Missouri  river  is  not  navigable  for  steamboats  as  far  up 
as  the  Minnesota  line,  ordinarily,  without  the  removal  of  ob- 
structions. 

The  Mississippi  river  is  navigable  always,  when  open,  to 
Fort  Snelling,  which  is  six  miles  southwest  of  St.  Paul,  and 
yet  vj)  the  river !  At  Fort  Snelling  the  Minnesota  pours  in 
its  deep,  quiet  volume,  being  a  stream  about  the  same  size  as 
the  Mississippi,  which  comes  hurrying  down  from  the  falls  of 
St.  Anthony,  nine  miles  above,  to  join  it  below  the  promontory 
on  which  sits  Fort  Snelling  like  a  lazy  old  sentinel. 

The  Minnesota  river  is  navigable  ordinarily  to  Traverse 
d-T  Sioux,  one  hundred  miles,  and  extraordinarily  another 
hundred  miles  and  more.  It  seems  about  the  same  thing  as 
far  up  as  you  choose  to  run  a  boat — generally  deep,  rather 
narrow,  rather  sluggish,  and  very  crooked ;  suitable  only  for 
short  boats  in  any  stngo  of  water,  and  very  likely  in  low  water 

S 


36 


MTNJTESOTA    AND   ITS    JiESOURCKS. 


if     ! 


go  above  Still«.,,„.      A        '  \^''«''"'«W.  therefore,  seldom 
also  f.-,.e„f':.e:     f  Csliss  ss tr"Th"     ,'''  ""'  ""^  "''^ 

lakes  are  covered  with  wild  "fee  and  t  T       -f  °"^  °'  "'" 
Freoiientlv  tl,„  l„i  "  "  ''"™  with  waterfowl. 

tl-k  as  they  caifs^lml  Tl  r„  T,r.'""'""^  "'^  ^P""==)  - 
l.-»es  out  L  a..o  e  ba!i ,  a  t^e'T"?  ""  ™'"-  "'-' 
fills,  and  makes  anotherlak  '.  Ja   Ius'h  'f'  "''""  " 

bluffs  arerealh  «    1^,';  f/T  "f"'™  *°  «'•  ^'-'l  «'-»« 

cept  these  Uufe^  1^™:  roTtT  ''''""'■    ^^■ 
there  is  no  portion  of  tin,  vnst  terr  ,  i.  *^'""  ""'"'•''• 

may  not  be  driven  m-o  -n    l  .,  ^'^  '"'"''*  "  '™''«1  '"agon 

Viewed  froZ  di^H  ,  1"  , ""  '"'"■""^  """  ^^  «™»^'l- 
Lave  the  irre«,ll  o,  H,  e'of     '■"^''  "'  "'"^^  ■"  ^'"'"-o'.'' 
But  the  very  an  X  of   II  ".™"''''i''  "'""'"  °"'<"-  »*-">»• 

-untain  scenery  here,  as  wefUs  evot:^:^:  ^^^l^^ 


^e  the  rapids, 

end  of  Lake 
les,  for  largo 

nearly  to  the 

ve  Stillwater. 

efore,  seldom 

season  from 

t.  Croix  and 
nd  they  are 
!S  are  chiefly 
f  side  of  the 
iter  is  rather 
qualities  of 
^fany  of  the 
li  waterfowl, 
irac  swamp, 
e  spruce)  iis 
■  water  tlien 
3d,  which  it 
ften  formed 
n  that  runs 

id,  that  ap- 
<t  approach 
along  the 
^aul  these 
lery.  Ex- 
sat  woods, 
Jed  wagon 
ssed. 

Minnesota 
ler  states, 
tlways  be 
B  do  want 
he  valley 


GEOOBAPHTCAL   AND   GENERAL   FEATURES. 


2T 


^1 


of  tlie  Mississippi  river;  and  have  often  thought  we  could 
afibrd  to  give  away  one  of  our  smooth,  fertile  counties  for  one 
of  the  White  hills,  to  be  planted  down  in  the  middle  of  Min- 
nesota. 

At  Rock  island,  and  east  of  Rock  island,  for  hundreds  of 
miles,  and  probably  west  also,  there  is  a  ridge  in  the  shell  of 
tlie  earth  (making  the  rapids  of  the  Mississippi  and  Rock 
rivers  there),  which  divides  the  region  north  and  south  of  it, 
by  an  isothermal  line,  that  varies  very  sensibly  the  climate 
and  temperature,  as  you  proceed  north  or  south  of  it,  making 
a  change  much  greater  than  is  indicated  by  the  parallels  of 
latitude  —  the  slope  south  of  the  ridge,  presenting  a  plain  of 
vast  extent,  which  is  very  slightly  convex,  north  and  soutli, 
and  upon  all  which  the  rays  of  the  sun  fall  about  equally  ver- 
tical, while  north  of  the  ridge  is  another  slope  extending  as 
far  north  as  Sauk  rapids,  with  a  more  northern  inclination,  but 
upon  the  whole  expanse  of  wliich  the  rays  of  the  sun  fall  neai'- 
ly  equally  vertical.  At  Sauk  rapids,  crops  out  another  ridge 
or  backbone  of  granite,  extending  east  and  west,  north  of 
wliich  extends  another  wide  plain,  very  slightly  convex  north 
and  south ;  but  how  far  noi-th,  we  have  not  been  there  to  ob- 
serve, probably  to  the  high  lands  dividing  the  sources  of  the 
Mississippi  and  the  Red  river  of  the  North.  Hence  we  uni- 
versally observe  that  they  have  winter  and  sleighing  weeks 
earlier,  at  and  above  Sauk  rapids,  than  between  Sauk  rapids 
and  Rock  island  ;  and  weeks  earlier  between  Rock  island 
and  Sauk  rapids,  than  in  the  great  slope  below  Rock  island. 
These  ridges  upon  the  globe,  east  and  west,  may  be  compared 
to  the  ridges  sometimes  observed  upon  an  egg,  and,  in  our 
opinion,  make  an  important  feature,  in  explaining  the  pheno- 
mena of  climate,  which  has  not  been  heretofore  observed  or 
commented  upon  by  geologists,  as  it  deserves  to  be.  As  a 
proof  of  the  correctness  of  this  view,  drawn  from  our  own  ob- 
servation, we  invite  the  attention  of  travellers  upon  the  Missis- 
sippi to  this  fact — that  a  marked  change  in  the  development 
of  forest  foliage  in  the  spring,  is  observable  in  passing  both 
the  ridges  referred  to  :  that  at  Rock  island  and  that  at  Sauk 
rapids.     The  seasons,  therefore,  are  about  the  same,  through 


28 


MIJSNESOTA    AND   ITS    ULSOUKCK8. 


'ft| 


Mi      "I 


ll.ey  n,ay  ,ai»e  more  eon.  in  Illi„„i,,  raolZoltotrT" 
pork  m  Iowa,  more  cnftrm  ;»  ivr-    •    •      .  *"  ™^  "^  ^^lo,  more 

ns  at  any  time  in  the  venr      TI.«     •    •     ,  *  of  doors 

the  .nok^;  fro,,,  tl,    cl,f„  n  ,3  ul    ri"'™  ^""  "'  '^-"'- 
n.an  body  creates  arn,,,,/  -f    w  ground— every  1,„. 

The  .tilhL  a,  d  1..;::  fof  tt  at'"  "T""''™  "^  *""■*■ 

LeaUl,  we  enjoy,  aeeC  ^f.  t  colZ hm"  Tn'?  '""  ^'T™' 
of  a  degree  of  cold  that  would  h^Z^M^nsIT"-  '7' 
summer    we  have  a  few  daya  inten  ely  tt   ^f  ftf      1 
showers  from  spring  until  harvest,  and  mo  t  ^f  ^hei^ T 
short  n,ghts.    At  midsummer,  the  sun  seem    scmerv  tV 
down  ,n  the  west  to  lave  his  golden  a^lel  tl  !  P  ^-.^     ?" 
fore  «  again  behold  his  blazinf  cba  iott  ^e    ast     It";     ' 
0  clock  .n  the  evening,  it  i»  then  scarcely  too  da,k  ffr  , 
w,vcs  and  daughters  to  be  scwi,,,.     n,    f  .  ^"^^ 

«i...  ...o..,uit„L.  Tbese\rc;TwbS'  rrsr:et:Se- 

""uoyanee,  have  r.bout  ceased  to  be  tronblesomlh!  St  P 

the  ve■^r     1V„  •  '  "iO'o'ortabie  season  >.f 

the  year.    \U  ex,>er,encc  no  chilling  „,i„ds,  and  shivering, 


aEGGRAPIIICAL  AND  GENERAL  FEATURES. 


29 


3wn  to  Eock 
ore  southern 
t  the  whole 
Rock  island. 

Muscatine, 
climate  be- 
rceptible. 
B  salubrious 
'n  a  case  of 
r,  either  in 
>l,  heaUhful 
ns  extrtiony 
comparably 
h  America. 
Ohio,  more 
nesota  can 
ther,  when 
tit  of  doors 
s  death — 
■every  hu- 
f  warmth, 
e  vigorous 
nent  here, 
--ouis.     In 

frequent 
>m  in  the 
ily  to  go 
acific,  be- 

At  nine 
for  your 
svers  mul- 
a  terrible 
5t.  Paul ; 
1,  indeed 
elightful 
ter;  and 
eason  cf 
livering, 


drizzling  rain-storms,  usually.  It  is  very  uncommon  to  have 
a  winter  as  severe  as  the  past  has  been.  Sleighing  generally 
continues  good  here  through  all  the  winter  months.  The  river 
generally  closes  about  the  fifteenth  of  November,  and  opens 
the  last  of  March,  and  a  boat  may  generally  be  expected 
early  in  April ;  but  before  it  closes,  supplies  are  brought  up 
for  the  semi-annual  payment  to  the  Sioux,  Chippewa,  and  Winne- 
bago annuities.  All  these  Indians  are  paid  in  Minnesota.  The 
aggregate  amount  of  annuities  paid  them  in  cash  and  goods,  in- 
cluding what  the  Sioux  now  receive  under  the  treaties  ratified  in 
1852,  and  the  cost  of  transportation,  amounts  to  several  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  These  payments,  and  the  supplies  furnished  to 
Fort  Ripley,  and  Fort  Ridgely,  and  the  goods  and  provisions 
furnished  by  the  traders  to  the  Indians,  constitute  much  the  largest 
share  of  the  business  heretofore  done  by  steamboats,  at  the  port  of 
St.  Paul. 

The  Indian  trade  is  carried  on  chiefly  by  factors  or  agents 
of  a  few  large  establishments,  which  have  their  outfits  or  de- 
pots at  St.  Paul  J  these  agents  are  at  different  points  in  the 
Indian  country,   but  mostly  near  where  the   payments    are 
made.     They  buy  furs  and  peltry ;   but  their  chief  business 
is  to  sell  goods  to  the  Indians,  at  a  profit,  in  anticipation  of 
payments.     An  Indian  hunter  requires  his  outfit  of  ammuni- 
tion, blankets,  guns,  and  a  variety  of  necessaries  for  himself 
and  his  family.     When  he  returns  from  his  hunt,  he  general- 
ly sells  his  furs  to  the  outfit  that  furnished  him.     If  any  bal- 
ance remains  due  to  the  outfit,  he  does  not  pay  it,  but  it  is 
expected  to  stand  as  a  charge  against  the  annuity,  if  the,ve  be 
an  annuity  ;  or  if  not,  then  against  the  contingency  of  an  an- 
nuity, to  be  paid  as  a  part  of  the  public  debt  of  the  tribe,  out 
of  the  ultimate  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  their  lands.     This  has 
been  the  established  mode  of  procedure  for  many  years ;  and 
there  never  has  been  a  time  when  the  trader  with  the  Sioux 
Indians  could  discontinue  and  refuse  to  extend  these  credits, 
without  an  absolute  certainty  of  forfeiting  all  former  balances 
due  to  him,  for  the  supplies  of  previous  years. 

Wc  might  say  something  of  the  admirable  oaks  and  rock 


80 


illNNESO'lA   AND   ITS   BESOUROI'U 


!3 


maples,  and  black  walnuts,  found  in  the  Big  woods,  which  for 
various  purposes  of  manufacture,  will  be  of  immense  value  to 
the  trade  of  Minnesota ;  but  we  will  now  write  only  of  pine 
lumber.     Formerly,  we  had  our  doubts  as  to  the  great  extent 
of  our  pineries.     Now  we  have  no  doubt.     As  yet,  our  lumber- 
men  only  go  up  the  St.  Croix  and  its  tributaries,  and  Rum 
nver,  a  tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  but  a  few  miles  above  St. 
Anthony,  lying  between  the  Mississippi,  and  the  St.  Croix. 
From  that  region  comes  merely  the  pine  of  the  St.  Croix,  and 
of  the  Mississippi.     But  far  above  Rum  river,  are  other  tribu- 
taries of  the  Mississippi,  and  eighty  miles  of  solid  pine  timber 
on  the  shores  of  the  Mississippi  itself,  below  Pokegamon  falls, 
m  the  Chippewa  country,  and  many  unexplored  tributaries, 
besides,  properly  i„  the   pine  region ;  so  that  centuries  will 
hardly  exhaust  the  pineries  above  us.     We  are  ashamed  that 
we  ever  distrusted  Providence,  or  suspected  that  our  munifi- 
•ent  Maker  could  have   left  two  thousand  miles  of  fertile 
prairies  down  the  river,  without  an  adequate  supply  of  pine 
lumber  at  the  sources  of  the  river,  to  make  those  plains  habi- 
table. 

There  are  many  saw-mills  on  the  St.  Croix;  eight  mills  at 
St.  Anthony  propelled  by  water,  and  five  at  St.  Paul  propelled 
by  steam.     Sawing  is  far  the  best  business  doing  in  St.  Paul 
The  logs  delivered  here  cost  less   than   mere   stumpage  in 
Maine ;  and  yet  lumber  sells  very  high,  and  much  beyond 
what  our  mills  can  supply,  is  rafted  or  hauled  from  St.  An- 
thony.     It  would  pay  well  to  put  up  forty  good  steam  saw- 
mills, now,  in  St.  Paul.     If  any  surplus  of  lumber  were  made. 
It  could  be  taken  to  a  market  below,  in  the  form  of  shingles 
lathing,  plMied  flooring  and  siding.     We  want,  here,  a  patent 
wooden  ware  factory,  large  enough  to  supply  the  trade  of  the 
whole  river  down  to  New  Orleans.     Come  what  may,  lumber- 
mg  can  not  fail,  unless  the  govci  -iment  foolishly  undertake  to 
cut  oft'  building  and  fencing,  and  immigration  throughout  the 
valley  of  the  Mississippi  river. 

We  also  have  more  and  better  inducements  for  agriculture 
than  any  other  counliy  can  boast. 

Ist :  A  better  climate —  in  which  the  labor  of  one  man  will 


OEOORAPHICAL    AND   OENEIIAL   FEATURES. 


31 


ods,  vvhicli  for 
lense  value  to 
I  only  of  pine 
5  great  extent 
t,  our  lumber- 
ies,  and  Rum 
lies  above  St. 
lie  St.  Croix. 
}t.  Croix,  and 
B  other  tribu- 
cl  pine  timber 
egamon  falls, 
d  tributaries, 
centuries  will 
isliamed  that 
t  our  munifi- 
es  of  fertile 
pply  of  pine 
plains  habi- 

iight  mills  at 
ml  propelled 
in  St.  Paul, 
stumpage  in 
ueh  beyond 
i-om  St.  An- 
steam  saw- 
were  made, 
of  shingles, 
re,  a  patent 
;rade  of  the 
ay,  lumber- 
ndertake  to 
jughout  the 

agriculture 

e  man  will 


-1) 


produce  more,  will  yield  a  larger  surplus  above  his  own  neces- 
sities, than  any  other  western  state  or  territory  can  boast  of 
We  have  none  of  the  languor  and  debility  and  agues,  that 
turn  men  into  feeble  women,  in  the  harvest-field,  as  they  have 
south  .)f  us.  Labor,  hero,  stands  up  firmly  on  its  legs,  the  year 
round,  and  drives  things  through. 

2d:  We  have  as  good  land  —  it  is  useless  to  say  better — 
but  as  good  as  there  is  in  the  world.     For  fertility.  Cottage 
Grove  prairie,  or  the  whole  valley  of  the  Minnesota  river,  or 
the  valley  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  can  not  be  beaten  ; 
yes,  we  undertake  to  say  that  at  Pembina,  in  latitude  49° 
north,  they  can  raise  as  sound  corn,  and  as  much  to  the  acre, 
as   can   be  raised   anywhere  on  the  Wabash.     Now,  if  our 
renders  are  not  going  to  believe  us,  let  them  stop  short  here ; 
for  we  are  prepared  to  make  a  wager,  that  we  will  raise  larger 
and  better  crops  in  Minnesota,  acre  for  acre,  of  any  or  all  crops 
ever  cultivated  in  that  state,  than  can  be  raised  in  Illinois. 
We  will  name  our  farmer,  living  here,  for  our  champion,  and 
M'ill  back   him  up  with  our  money.     There  is  time  enough. 
May  is  soon  enough  here.     We  will  give  Illinois   May  the 
start,  and  Minnesota  shall  come  out  ahead.     Don't  care  what 
the  crop  is  —  any  grain,  any  root  —  anything  from  a  castor 
bean,  or  an  apple  or  pear  tree,  or  a  pumpkin,  to  a  sweet  pota- 
toe  or  a  tobacco  plant.     Why,  sucker,  do  yon  know  you  have 
frosts  abont  two  weeks  earlier  in  Illinois,  than  Ave  do  here  ? 
It  is  a  fact !     We  will  show  these  people  siglits,  who  come  up 
here  in  May,  and  go  shivering  back  home,  saying  that  Minne- 
sota is   "too  cold  for  craps:'      We  can   beat   them,  too,  at 
stock-growing,  can  raise  hardier  cattle  and  sheep,  and  thicker 
meated,  sweeter  beef,  than  they  can  anyAvhere  down  South. 
We  feed  stock  a  fortnight  longer — but  what  of  that?     Our 
cattle  are  healthier,  our  grass  is  sweeter  and  more  luxuriant, 
and  our  water  better  for  stock ;  and  we  can  make  more  at  rais- 
ing stock  here  at  the  same  prices.     But  we  have  higher  prices 
here  for  meat  and  for  all  produce — and  always  must  have,  hav- 
ing soldiers,  lumbermen,  and  Indians,  to  feed,  and  make  us  a 
home  market.      The   cosl  of  shipping  produce  from   below, 
operates  as  a  perpetual  tariff  to  protect  our  farmer.     He  gets 


32 


MINNJ-JSOTA  AND   IT8   R1SS0UK0E8. 


in  S'  *^""!'''  ",'■''"'"  ^'■■■■"'■■■'■°«'.  »'"  '1"  not  consider  abundant 
;..  these  i,„,„  ;  but  wo  J.avo  tl,e  fattest  dncka  and  ceese  food 

a hvo  w„h  t  em.     Wo  will  wa,«nt  all  fislL-n.en'^i     a,    Zl 

I  on  can  catcli  jnst  as  many  bass  and  pickerel  as  yon  want     I,, 
tl.or,ver,we  catch  not  only  the  eatLh  (none  of  yolr "limv 

a.J  ns  in  size  from  five  inches  to  two  p„„„ds.     But  it  is 

act '::;:z:i::^:" -'"■'"■-•  ^^^'-^^^^^^^^^t 

Away  np  tho  Minnesota  river  are  the  Sionx  Indinns      Tb™ 
arc  da,  y  m  onr  town,,  bogging  some,  trading  a  Ii«Ie  aid  som!  of 

thiy'^t^Iy'U^^^,::  -  -r;s7d;,:t  ^  ^'  "'■^^' 

or  across  the  river.     li  a  residence  ^Z  ^rs  w!  b^"?  """' 
three  drunken  Indians  in  St  Paul    of  ,„v  ,        ''°' '""' 

Wo  state  this  as  an  astonishing  foei'cedtabkTo' ,?."  '™'''°- 
our  honors,  but  still  more  s!  t^'ibTl  ttd  „?' Tbtaf 
under  better  moral  influence  than  any  other  Tnd  Z"  ■  ^  ° 
this  continent.  The  Sioux  Irentir  l  •  1  ''  '*"''"'?'•  "" 
ludians  have  all  been  removed  aw  vn^r.T  •°°  ""'^'''  "'"^ 
head  waters  of  the  Minnesia  r  veT  A  "  a  "  mT'™""?  ""u"'' 
sands,  are  living  now  in  tho  S-,o::F,tZ%l^I'TsortZ 
improvements,  including  expensive  mills.  Settlers  arc  no.  I  • 
there  every  day,  and  will  continue  to  do  so    for  tb?  ^  "' 

could   not,  if  it  would    .sbnt  o  r.i,  '•  S»fo™n,ent 

in>mi..„t  count^^;^:'  t"a  "^LtTZrhund::,"^:' 

boun^r  '™'^^  '"''   °^  "«»^  *^   MinnesL'":;tris"the 

It  is  hard  to  answer  the  question,  "What  is  your  population 


1 
I 


OKOGRAPIIICAL    AND   CCNERAL    FEATURKti. 


as 


iglit  and  the 

er  abundant 
■  geese  feed- 
lat  you  ever 

I  to  say  that 
lakes  —  arc 
in  all  parts 
s  in  fishing, 
u  want.  In 
your  slimy, 

''  most  deli- 

t    abounds, 

But  it  is 

lish  a  busi- 

ans.     They 
id  somo  of 
'  do  know  a 
At  night 
canoes  up, 
'6  not  seen 
or  female, 
laracter  of 
They  are 
)erhaps,  on 
fied,  these 
ion  on  the 
3ple,  thou- 

II  sorts  of 
)ouring  in 
3vernment 
IS  of  our 
•ed  miles, 
er  is   the 

copulation 


composed  off'     The  peoj.le  who  constituted  Minnesota  when 
it  was  organized  were  a  majority  of  them  Canadians,  ro,/agrurs 
and  their  families,  and  half,  and  quarter,  and  eighth,  and  six- 
teenth breed  Indians,  running  through  the  whole  gamut  of 
colors,  from  the  dusky  Indian  to  the  fair  Scotchman;   and 
;     these  people  are  still  in  Minnesota— quiet,  good  people,  though 
not  all  as  intelligent  and  energetic  as  the  scheming  Yankee. 
They  are  living  all  over  the  territory,  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  where  our  organic  act  found  them,  and  gave  them  the 
I'-litical  rights  they  so  highly  enjoy.     Such  is  their  attach- 
nieiit  to  our  flag  and  onr  government,  that  nowhere  could  vol- 
nnteers  be  more  readily  raised  than  among  them  to  fight  its 
battles.     Since  the  date  of  the  organic  act,  settlers  from  all 
parts  have  come  in,  from  the  east,  the  middle,  and  the  south. 
Ilovvever  divided  upon  other  questions,  there  is  not  and  will 
not  be  in  Minnesota  any  disposition  to  sutler  any  infringement 
whatever  upon  the  rights  of  any  and  all  the  states  of  the  Union 
to  manage  their  own  domestic  affairs. 

a^ie  Mississippi  river  is  just  as  navigable  all  the  way  up  to 

St.  1  aul,  when  the  upper  or  lower  rapids  do  not  interrupt,  as 

a  river  can  well  be  j  although  there  have  been  times,  and  may 

again  be,  when  the  sandbars  interrupt  the  passage  of  boats  of 

the  usual  draught.     The  boats  running  here  arc  of  the  same 

c  ass  that  run  from   St.  Louis  to  Rock  island  and   Galena. 

There  are  always  ten  to  twenty  boats  regularly  running  between 

St.  Louis  and  St.   Paul.     There  is  now  a  daily  line  of  boats  in 

operation  between  St.  Paul  and  Galena,  a  city  with  which  we  have 

a  large  and  growing  trade-most  of  our  trade,  in  fact,  upon  the 

river,  abov  St.  Louis.     Dubuque,  however,  is  now  struggling  for 

a  share  c     .ur  trade,  and  may  eventually  succeed  to  some  extent. 

since  the  railroad  has  been  completed  to  the  Mississippi  opposite 

hi  nTb.  ;  -"^  f  ""^'"^"^  '^^  ^^^  "go-aheaditiveness" 
hat  n  ay  be  found  in  Galena,  she  would  long  since  have  secured 
the  Mississippi  trade.  There  are  now  a  dozen  boats,  and  probably 
n.ore,  running  regularly  from  St.  Paul  to  points  on  the  Minnesota 
river  during  the  boating  season.  There  is  no  doubt  but  there  will 
be   SIX   boats  land  at  our  wharves  every  d.y  during  the  whole 

2* 


34 


MINNESOTA   AND   IT8   RESOURUEH. 


•cason.     For  safety,  clofjnnco  of  accommodations,  regularity    and 
nil  that  constitutes  good  boating,  these  bouts  and  boatmen  in  the 
«t.  Paul  trade  can  not  bo  surpassed.     Some  half-do7,eu  boata  aro 
now  owntd  or  coutrullcd   by  the  merchants   .-na  captains  of  St 
Paul,  and  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  our  citizens  will  huve 
tl  ')ir  own  hue  of  packets  to  Dunleith  without  fear  or  favor  from 
any  quarter.     Thus  it  will  bo  scon  that  the  traveller  and  the  im- 
n.igrant  at  St.  Louis,  or  the  traveller  coming  from  Chicago  to  Dun- 
leith  by  n.ilroad,  and  thence  up  the  Mississippi,  can  hardly  miss  a 
good  boat  any  day  to  St.  Paul;  and  we  learn  that  the  fare  will  be 
very  low.    There  are  no  snags  in  the  river  above  Galena— no  risk— 
neverastoamboataccidcnt  — no  cholera  — nothing  to  prevent  you 
connng  cheaply,  agreeably,  and  comfortably  through,  at  least 
to  see  Minnesota,  and  look  at  S*  Anthony  and  Stillwater,  and 
••tt  our  own  extensive  town  of  St.  Paul,  which  is  fast  tumbliuff 
lip  into  the  rank  of  cities.  ^ 

If  a  traveller  comes  here,  and  has  any  sort  of  curiosity,  he 
will  take  a  stage  to  St.  Anthony,  eight  miles,  look  at  the  falls 
and  as  pretty  a  town-site  as  the  Almighty  ever  fashioned,  and 
take  the  little  steamboat  -  Governor  llamsev,"  above  the  falls, 
to  Sauk  rapids,  about  eighty  miles  j  and  if  he  does  not  say  be 
sees  the  most  delightful,  the  most  charming  hand  and  river 
scenery  all  the  way  up  -as  far  as  he  chooses  to  travel  — that 
ever  lay  out  of  doors,  then  we  have  no  sense  or  judgment.     Or. 
If  he  wants  to  see  what  the  practical  farmer  can  do  in  Minne- 
sota, let  him  ride  down  to  Cottage  Grove.     This  is  upon  the 
tongue  of  land  extending  down  betw^een  the  confluence  of  the 
St.  Croix  and  the  Mississippi.     The  farmers  there  raise  more 
oats,  roots,  everything  that  is  good  to  eat,  than  they  have  any 
use  for,  and  they  sell  a  handsome  surplus  every  year  to  St 
Paul  and  Stillwater.     It  is  on  the  erst  side  of  the  river,  too' 
—  no  trouble  about  Indians,  and  some  of  the  best  land  that 
over  was  at  cheap  rates.     From  Cottage  Grove  you  may  proceed    . 
f.loint   Douglass,    a   place   of  much   promise,  and   surrounded 
with    choice   land.     Thence   you   will   pass   through   a  charming 
country,  thirty  miles,  along  the  west  shore  of  Lake  St.  Croix,  to 
Stillwater.  ' 


i 


I 


: :  M 


OIi)LK»RA.lMII0AL    AND    OKNKUAL    FEATUIlKi*. 


35 


gularify,  and 
Umcn  in  the 
!0Q  boats  ttit) 
)tains  of  St. 
jns  will  have 
r  fuvor  from 
and  the  im- 
cago  to  Dun- 
iardly  miss  a 
I  faro  will  be 
a — no  risk — 
prevent  you 
igli,  at  least 
llwatcr,  and 
st  tumbling 

uriosity,  he 
at  the  falls 
liioned,  and 
'0  the  ffills, 
not  say  he 

and  river 
nvel  —  that 
ineut.  Or, 
'  in  Minne- 
s  upon  the 
nee  of  the 
raise  more 

have  any 
ear  to  St. 
!  river,  too 
land  that 
ay  proceed  • 
surrounded 
I  charmintr 
i.  Croix,  to 


Ftillwatcr  Is  the  headcjuartcrs  of  the  outfit  and  lun»l)ering 
done  above  it,  on  the  St.  (Jroix,  and  has  a  more  substantinl, 
reliable  business,  for  the  extent  of  it,  and  more  capital,  and 
less  peciiuiary  ombarrassnient,  tlian  any  other  town  in  jNIinne- 
Bota.  There  the  jienitentiary  has  been  erected,  and  there  has 
been  located  one  of  tlie  lancl-olliocs  in  Minnesota — another  is 
in  Benton  county.  There  come  the  steamboats,  cither  on  their 
Avay  up  or  down  the  Mississippi ;  and  although  you  might  go 
across  in  a  stage  from  Htillvvater  to  St.  Paul  by  land,  you  will 
i  probably  prefer  to  go  around  in  the  boat.  Ihit  first  you  musi 
go  up  the  St.  Croix,  and  see  the  busy  sawmills  at  the  Marine, 
Oceola,  Taylor's  falls,  and  the  falls  of  St.  Croix.  These 
places  arc  all  actively  engaged  in  lumbering.  Being  back  at 
St.  Paul,  you  will  of  course  go  up,  four  or  five  miles,  to  Mcn- 
dota  and  Fort  Snellii'ig.  Southwardly  from  St.  Paul,  about 
six  miles  vj}  the  Mississippi  river,  on  a  high,  smootli  promon- 
tory, standing  upon  white  saiulrock,  is  the  fort,  below  which 
unite  the  Minnesota  from  the  southwest  and  the  JMississippi 
from  the  northwest;  but  an  island  extends  down  for  half  a 
mile,  and  keeps  the  channels  of  the  two  streams  separate,  ex- 
cept a  narrow  slough  or  cut-oft'  that  connects  them  just  below 
the  fort.  About  half  way  down  the  island,  on  the  Sioux  or 
west  side,  sitting  on  the  shore  of  the  JVlinnesota  river,  is  Men- 
dota,  which  has  been  incorporated  by  our  legislature,  and  is 
destined  to  a  rapid  improvement.  The  tenacity  with  which 
the  war  department  hung  to  the  large  tract  o*  country  cm- 
braced  within  tlie  old  military  reserve  at  Port  Snelling,  has 
been  the  only  obstacle  to  the  improvement  of  Mendota  here- 
tofore. 

Hurrying  back  to  St.  Paul  (and  the  boat  is  there  before  you 
think  of  it),  you  take  the  stage  to  St.  Anthony,  passing  through 
as  pretty  a  specimen  of  Minnesota  on  your  way  as  need  be  ; 
and  you  are  soon  there,  although  you  might  go  in  half  the 
time  if  that  railroad  that  is  to  be  were  completed.  You  will 
find  St.  Anthony  a  right  smart  city,  very  neatly  built  along 
the  east  bank  of  the  river,  and  on  a  bench  a  little  back  from 
the  river,  that  overlooks  the  falls  and  a  fine  region  west  of 
the  river.     You  may  be  disappointed  in  the  grandeur  of  the 


m 


8fi 


■ffi 


MINNKSO'lA    AND    I'l>4    JiKS(>UKCl«. 


falls,  ns  you  certainly  will  be  in  the  size  of  tlie  river,  but  not 
in  the  unsurpassed  beauty  of  both,  or  the  charming  beauty  of 
the  whole  scene  that  surrounds  you.     The  mills,  twelve  saws, 
you  will  find   actively  employed,  and  water  enough  (if  the 
throat  of  the  channel  through  which  it  is  supplied,  between 
the  island  and  the  shore,  were  sufficiently  deepened)  to  drive 
all  the  sawmills  in  the  world !     Less  than  half  a  mile  below 
the  milldam  (which  confines  all  the  water  passing  down  on  the 
east  side  of  the  island,  while  on  the  west  side  the  water  leaps 
unrestrained  down  the  falls)  there  is  an  eddy,  to  which  lumber 
is  hauled  from  the  mills  to  be  rafted  down  to  St.  Paul,  distant 
by  the  river  some  thirteen  or  fourteen  miles.     Look  upon  the 
map,  and  you  will  see   that  St.  Anthony  is  only  about  two 
miles  north  of  St.  Paul.     A  railroad  of  eight  miles,  therefore, 
or  a  plank-road,  would  be  of  great  service  to  both  towns.     [In 
fact,   a   railroad  must  and  will  he  built  between  the  infant 
"  sister  cities."     The  great  and  rapidly-increasing  business  of 
St.  Anthony  and   St.  Paul,  the  large  amount  of  freight  and 
travel  continually  passing  between  them,  and  their  close  and 
allied  interests,  as  the  great  manufacturing  and  commercial 
centres  of  the  territory,  will  render  the  speedy  prosecution  and 
completion  of  a  railroad  a  matter  of  absolute  necessity.]     An 
extension  of  a  railroad  in  the  proper  and  natural  direction 
(northerly  up  the   Mississippi  river  toward   Lake    Superior) 
Avould  not  touch  St.  Anthony,  but  Avould  leave  it  several  miles 
west  of  the  line.     We  should,  however,  favor  the  construction 
of  a  road  by  St.  Anthony,  a  place  where  all  travellers  will 
desire  to  visit  —  where   there   will   be  much  manufacturing, 
especially  of  pine  lumber — the  university  of  Minnesota— and 
a  place,  in  fact,  which  will  soon  be  one  of  much  imporfance. 

[St.  Anthony  now  (spring  of  1856)  contains  over  forty-fivo 
hundred  inhabitants,  and  is  constantly  increasing  with  great 
rapidity.  Her  people  are  distinguised  for  their  temperance, 
morality,  industry,  and  untiring  energy  of  character.  In 
addition  to  the  large  number  who  are  now,  and  will  contitnie 
to  be,  engaged  in  manufacturing,  lumbering,  merchandising, 
and  the  professions,  St.  Anthony  will  soon  contain  a  largo 
population  of  retired  people  of  substance,  as  well  as  invalids 
and  people  of  fortune,  desiring-  literary  privileges  in  a  beauti- 


B  river,  but  not 
iiing  beauty  of 
Is,  twelve  sawB, 
Bnougli  (if  tlio 
plied,  between 
•ened)  to  drive 

a  mile  below 
ig  down  on  tlio 
he  water  leaps 
•  which  lumber 
i.  Paul,  distant 
Look  upon  the 
nly  about  two 
iles,  therefore, 
;li  towns.     [In 
en  the  infant 
g  business  of 
of  freight  and 
heir  close  and 
d  commercial 
•osecutlon  and 
icessity.]     An 
ural  direction 
ike    Superior) 

several  miles 
5  construction 
ravellers  Avill 
lanufacturing, 
inesota  —  and 
imporfaiice. 
over  forty-five 
g  with  great 
L'  temperance, 
laracter.  In 
will  con ti tine 
erchandising, 
itain  a  large 
II  Hs  invalids 
s  in  a  beauti- 


f 


•V;. 


If 


-i. 


GEOaRAPIITCAL   AND   GJiNEilAL    FEATURES. 


3t 


o 
c 

K 


y. 


y. 

< 

f-i 

CO 

£: 

E-i 
W 

&: 

a 
o 
^-« 

ii: 

n 

f^ 
o 

M 
M 

S5 


§'-. 


"*% 


ful  town,  who  will  certainly  be  more  strongly*  attracted  there  than 
to  any  place  I  know  of •  in  the  great  valley. 

They  already  have  two  newspapers,  the  St.  Anthony  Express, 
which  was  formerly  Whjg  in  politics,  now  Democratic,  and  the 
oldest  established  paper;  and  the  St.  Anthony  Republican.  Isaac 
Atwater  is  editor  of  the  Express,  and  Rev.  C.  Gr.  Ames  of  the 
Republican. 

Minneapolis,  in  Hennepin,  is  o'n  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
opposite  St.  Anthony.  Here  is  the  old  government  mill,  and  a 
new  saw-mill  and  hundreds  of  buildings  have  been  recently 
erected.  This  is  the  county-snat  of  Hennepin  county,  which, 
since  the  reserve  has  been  taken  off  and  Lake  Minnetonka  has 
been  re-discovered,  has  increased  in  population  very  rapidly. 
This  is  a  new  county,  but  it  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  most 
wealthy  agricultural  counties  in  the  territory. 

Minneapolis,  which  has  recently  had  St.  Anthony  annexed  to  it, 
by  an  act  of  the  Legislature,  is  in  all  respects  as  pleasantly 
situated  as  St.  Anthony,  for  mill  purposes,  and  will  soon  be  a 
flourishing  city.  A  few  miles  below,  on  the  way  to  Fort  Snelling, 
is  Little  Falls,  where  a  small  stream  from  Lako  Minnetonka, 
passing  through  Lake  Calhoun,  leaps  down  a  perpendicular 
ledge,  some  seventy  feet,  in  a  way  to  stir  up  a  great  many 
stupid  stanzas  and  swelling  odes,  and  sublime  distiches.  A 
few  miles,  three  or  four  back,  is  Lake  Calhoun,  which  *it  seems 
to  be  generally  admitted  must  be  considered  our  classic  lakej 
and  all  the  little  poetast(^rs  of  the  Union,  when  they  go  into 
that  region,  aye  compelled  to  affect,  if  they  do  not  feel,  poetic 
fervor;  they  catch  iho  cacocthes  scrihendi ;  and  consequently  they 
soon  break  out  in  couplets,  sonnets,  distiches,  odes,  descriptions, 
sketches,  and  various  other  phenomena  of  disordered  imagina- 
tions. From  Minneapolis,  you  might  take  a  pony  and  ride  a 
hundred  miles  up  the  Minnesota  river,  through  a  varied  land- 
scape of  rich  prairie  and  heavy  timber,  and  rich  bottoms,  like 
those  of  the  Illinois,  the  grass  so  high  that  you  could  not  look 
out  from  the  top  of  your  pony  —  or  through  the  Big  woods,  or 
across  mill-streams,  past  newly-erected  dwellings,  large  fields 
recently  ploughed  and  fenced,  preparatory  to  receiving  a  crop 
tiiC   corning   spring  —  on   across    rolling   prairies   of  rich    luxuri- 


mil 


38 


MINNESOTA   AND   FIB  RE30UKCES. 


nnce,  sloping  away  in  the  wide,  blue  dreamy-looking  basin  of 
the  ]\[innesota,  •>,he  loveliest  view  of  broad,  fair  voluptuous 
Nature,  in  all  her  unconcealed  beauty,  that  ever  flashed  upon 
mortal  vision,  to  Henderson.     It  is  a* town  recently  laid  out 
on  the  ]\Iinnesota  river,  at  its  most  westerly  bend  beloAV  the 
Blue  Earth,  and  on  a  direct  line  between  Old  Village  lake,  on 
the  Cannon  river,  to  the  new  fort  and  Indian  agency,  which 
have  been  located  on  the  Upper  Minnesota.     There  has  been 
about  a  thousand  cords  of  wood  cut  here  during  the  past  win- 
ter, to  be  boated  down  to  St.  Paul.     A  saw-mill  and  various 
other  improvements  are  now  being  constructed.     The  propri- 
etors  have  opened  a  public  road  the  present  spring  to  Cannon 
river,    a    distance    of    between    twenty    and    twenty-five    miles, 
which  will  afford  facilities  for  the  immigrants  by  land  to  reach 
the  country  west  of  the  Minnesota,  by  the  best  and  shortest 
route.     Although  some  thirty  miles  by  the  river,  below  the 
Traverse  des  Sioux,  it  is  about  ten  miles  nearer  to  the  fort 
and  agency  by  land,  owing  to  the  coin-se  of  the  river  being 
south  of  east  from  the  fort  to  Blue  Earth,  and  thence  west  of 
north  to  Henderson.     A  heavy  growth  of  timber,  of  sugar  ma- 
ple principally,  extends  west  about  five  miles,  where  it  is  met 
by  a  clean,  smooth,  rich,  and  fertile  prairie,  extending  to  the 
New  fort,  and  beyond  that  to  sundown.     A  road  has  been 
opened  through  the  woods  to  the  prairie,  and  supplies  have 
been  hauled  to  the  new  fort  the  past  winter.     The  road  passes 
by  several   beautiful   lakes,    well   timbered,    and   presenting 
many  facilities  for  the  agriculturist,  being  well  watered,  well 
timbered,  superior  prairie-land,  and  convenient  to  a  IVesiem 
market. 

Travelling  a  little  north  of  west,  at  the  distance  of  thirty- 
five  miles  from  Henderson,  where  the  river  comes  from  a  point 
east  of  souik,  you  again  strike  the  I\rinnesota  at  Little  Rock, 
near  Fort  Ridgely,  the  new  United  States'  fortress;  which  is  on  a 
beautiful  plateau,  in  view  of  the  Minnesota,  stretching  off  for  miles 
nearly  southeast  and  northwest.  Near  this  point  is  the  Little 
Rock  river,  the  lower  line  of  the  Indian  reserve  ;  and  some 
twelve  or  iiricen  miles  up  the  Minnesota  is  the  new  location 
of  the  Sioux  agency,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Red  wood  on  the 


i*   M 


i:      i 


GEOaRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL  FEATURES. 


89 


ng  basin  of 

voluptuous 
aslicd  upon 
ily  laid  out 
I  below  the 
vge  lake,  on 
nicy,  which 
re  has  been 
le  past  win- 
md  various 
rhe  pro2)ri- 

to  Cannon 
-five  miles, 
nd  to  reach 
ad  shortest 

below  the 
to  the  fort 
river  being 
ice  west  of 
P  sugar  ma- 
re it  is  met 
ling  to  the 

has  been 
iplies  have 
•oad  passes 
presenting 
tered,  well 
a  Western 

of  thirty- 
3m  a  point 
ttle  Rock, 
lich  is  on  a 
•ff  for  miles 
the  Little 
and  some 
w  location 
)od  on  the 


couth,  and  the  Beaver  river  on  the  north.     Both  those  streams 

are  susceptible  of  being  made  to  drive  machinery  for  the  manu- 

■  I       facture    of  flour,  sawing    lumber,  &c.     Near   this   point    a  large 

I       farm  has  been  opened  for  the  use  of  the  Indians,  and  contracts 

J      were   all   taken    for   ploughing  six   hundred   acres   of  land,  and 

I      making   twenty-four   thousand   rails,  as   early  as  1853.     At  this 

1      agency  the  Sioux  will  receive  annually,  hereafter,  forty  thousand 

'  W      dollars'  worth  of  provisions,  and  eighty  thousand   dollars  in  cash 

annuities,  besides  the  goods,  iron,  salt,  &c.,  &c.,  provided  by  the 

,ii      treaties. 

^         Here  are  located  the  agent,  interpreters,  blacksmiths,  farmers, 
and  other  employees  of  the  Indian  department. 

If  you  wish  to  come  down  the  crooked  river  in  a  boat,  after 
passing  the  Big  and   Little  Cotton-Wood  rivers,  you   can    land 
at  JMankato  city,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Blue  Earth  river. 
Here  there  is  much  improvement,  and  this  point  may  be  termed 
the   head   of  steamboat  navigation,  even  in  high  water.     Above 
this   point,   after  passing  the   Cotton  woods,    the   river  becomes 
so  narrow,   so  very   crooked   and   shallow,    and   many   boulders 
being   in   the   channel,    that    steamboats   in   any   ordinary   stage 
of  water  could  not  get  up,  nor  turn  in  the  river  if  they  did  get 
up.     This   point  is   about   thirty  miles,  by  land,  from  the  New 
Fort,  and   is   surrounded  by  valuable    agricultural    land.     Water 
power   in   abundance    may   be   found   on    the    Blue   Earth   and 
its   tributaries.     Descending  from   the  Blue   Earth   some   twelve 
miles,    we   land   at    Kasota,    located   on    the   east   bank    of    the 
Minnesota,    and     surrounded    by    a    vast    supply    of    excellent 
walnut,  maple,  basswood,  and   other  valuable   timber.     Eight  or 
ten    miles    by   water,    still    further    down,    is    St.  Peter's,    and 
Traverse   des   Sioux,  where   the   Upper   Treaty  was   made;    and 
for   mai)y  weeks,    hundreds   of  Dakota   lodges   stood   everywhere 
scattered  about  on  the   sloping  hillside,  shaped   like   loaves  of 
sugar,  taken   possession  of  by  the   ants,  that  hurry  in  and  out, 
and   seem   busy  to   no   purpose.     At   Traverse   des   Sioux   (the 
crossing  of  the   Sioux),  there   has   always  been,  and  still   is,  a 
well-worn   trail,  crossing   from   the   east  to   the  west   side,  con- 
necting   Lake   Pepin   on   the   Mississippi,   and   all   that   rfir^Jon. 
with    Lac    qui    Parle,   and    the  regions  watered  by  the   head 


n 


40 


s   ■' 


til 


MINNESOTA   AND   riB   BISSOCBOBS. 


ilow  off  to  different  seas,  M  tl>e  principal  rivers  west  of  the 

oise,  IS  Lo  Sneiir,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  a  rlnro  ^ul 
e  c„e^  eapita,,  and  e„.eT,rise  of  so»e  oTthfTreh    ^ 

Iver     Let™  ^^  """^'  ""  ''«^^""™  P™"'  ™  *« 

;f  one  Of  the  ..i,,.  t  ll":::],^  "e"  .rs'CaJ  L^ltf' 
."■nan  enterprise  and  Mnstry,  h„t  east  rf  it.  w  tC  a  dav"! 
'Inve  across  a  region  of  groves  and  prairies  which  Nature  has 
dready  made  a  road  over,  lies  the  rich  valley  of  Can^o"  i™ 
(tl  0  R  ver  La  Longae  of  La  Hontan),  which  will  have  its  eTi 
est  and  most  natural  avenue  of  river  trade  th,l  fy    I 
and  down  the  Minnesota  river  to  sl  S  '       ™^''  ^^  ^"""^ 
Tins  IS  the  hub  round  which  the  northwest  from  T„„       • 
Parle  to  the  Missouri,  from  the  Missouri  to  t^  rTi    •      '  ,■ 
the  North,  and  from  Red  river  to  Lake  S        ■         T?  "' 
Lake  Superior  to  the  Mi..^Z^>^J^mZ:;^  'Z 

log  eatholie  ehapel  7n  t  e  .prL  of  I's  o  '''  ^f  "  '""" 

by  voluntary  contribution,  in  little  more  than  o^o  we^k-^c'h  ret' 
hotels  have  been  built,  and  two  more  very  We  ol  are  noiV  M 

boat   business   and   a  trade   now   actually  ^™" 


-.._    ^  ...tvjv    liuw    auEuaiiy    greater   thnr 
any  other  town   but   Galena,  above   St.  Louis.     These 


greater   than   that   of 
are  only 


-I 
I 


"•;* 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  GENERAL  FEATURES. 


41 


ich  rise  and 
west  of  the 
IV  the  Trav- 
phace  wliich 

merchants 
5int  on  the 

gradually, 

the  midst 
all  sorts  of 
liin  a  day's 
N^ature  has 
mnon  river 
ve  its  easi- 

Le  Sueur 

n  Lac  qui 
d  river  of 
and  from 
'olve,  turn 
om  a  half 
id  a  little 
bers  hun- 
f  a  dozen 
ants  num- 
foresight 
i>  such  as 
sidewalk, 
i  paid  for, 
-churches 
)e  erected 
;h)  —  two 
low  build- 
1,  and  all 
;  —  a  fine 
projected 
a  steam- 
that   of 
are  only 


some  of  the  changes  in  the  fortunes  of  this  vigorous  town,  which 
wc  have  witnessed,  since  we  landed  in  St.  Paul,  on  the  eighteenth 
of  April,  1849,  from  the  old  "  Senator,"  the  prompt,  honest, 
faithful,  old  "  Senator,"  Captain  Orrin  Smith,  who  has  retired  from 
the  trade  with  a  competency,  and  is  now  the  President  of  the 
Galena  and  Minnesota  Packet  Company. 

The  projectors  of  this  town  appear  to  have  had  but  the 
ei.irllest  possible  ideas  of  the   growth  and   importance  that 
awaited  St.  Paul,  not  anticipating  that  it  would  be  either  a 
commercial  centre  or  a  political  centre — nor  that  it  would  be 
the  capital  of  a  new  territory,  nor  the  centre  of  the  largest 
pine  lumber  operations  on  the  continent ;  nor  the  seat  of  a 
new  surveyor-general's  office,  for  the  government  surveys  of 
these  wide  regions ;  nor  the  point  of  trade  and  supplies,  of 
outfits  and  steamboat  operations  above  it  to  the  sources  of  the 
Minnesota  and  Mississippi  rivers.     The  original  plat  was  laid 
off  in  very  good  imitation  of  the  old  French  part  of  St.  Louis, 
with   crooked  lanes  for  streets,  irregular   blocks,   and   little 
skewdangular  lots,  about  as  large  as  a  stingy  card  of  ginger- 
bread, broke  in  two  diagonally,  without  n  reservation  fit  to  be 
called  a  public  square  —  without  a  margin  between  the  town 
and  the  river — without  preserving  a  tree  for  shp.ie  of  all  the 
majestic  ones  that  occupied  its  site,  the  ugly  stun^ps  of  which 
now  disfigure  the  town — and  without  permanent  evidence  of 
boundaries  made  by  the  survey.     In  fact,  it  was  a  survey  Avith- 
out  measurement,  a  plan  without  method,  a  volunteer  crop  of 
buildings  —  a  sort  of  militia  muster  of  tenements.     So  much 
for  the  old  plat.     Then  came  in  Rice  and  L'vine's  addition,  up 
the  river,  commencing  at  Mr.  Keill's  church,  and  embracing 
the  upper  landing.     This  is  laid  out  but  little,  if  any,  better. 
In  fact,  the  two  plats  appear  to  havo  taken  a  running  jump  at 
each  other,  like  two  rival  steamboats ;  which  having  inextri- 
cably run  into  each  other,  the  passengers  and  crews  have  con- 
cluded to  knock  down  the  railings  and  run  along  together,  as 
one  craft.     Then  came  in  Smith  and  Whitney's  addition,  next 
below  the  old  plat.     This  is  about  as  irregular,  being  laid  off 
upon  a  contracted  scale  also.     Hoyt's  addition  came  in  be- 
hind Smith  and  Whitney's,  bearing  a  strong  family  resem- 


!#> 


J» 


srj 


43 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS    KESOUliCKb, 


ta  t 


\¥    -       i 


l)lancc  to  tl.c  older  .idditiona  Leach's  addition  comes  in 
above  Rice  and  Irvine's,  extending  far  np  town.  Then  came 
in  the  Kittson  addition,  below  the  old  plat  of  Smith  and 
Whitney's  addition.  Kittson's  is  laid  off  in  smaller  lots  than 
any  of  the  other  additions ;  and  its  streets  make  no  sort  of 
coincidence  with  other  sti-eets  in  town.  It  would  save  im- 
mense cost,  and  prove  an  eternal  blessing  to  St.  Paul,  if  the 
whole  site  of  the  town  could  be  now  thrown  into  one  common 
field,  and  platted  as  it  ought  to  be,  with  large  reservations  of 
public  ground,  with  straight,  wide,  regular  streets,  and  blocks 
and  lots  of  uniform  size. 

Near  St.  Paul,  above  and  below,  are  two  fine  mill-streams  ; 
and  fi-om  springs,  rising  from  the  terrace  in  the  rear  of  the 
town  is  a  smaller  stream,  of  pure  water,  which  passes  down  to 
the  river  across  Rice  and  Irvine's  addition.  This  stream  for- 
merly passed  down  back  of  where  St.  Paul  is,  and  emptied 
through  the  ravine  in  Fourth  street,  into  the  river  at  the  low- 
er landing.  It  is  sufficient  to  supply  a  large  city  with  water; 
and  the  corporation  intend  to  conduct  it  down  through  an  aque- 
duct, to  furnish  the  town.     The  sooner  it  is  done,  the  better. 

There  are  two  steamboat  landings  in  St.  Paul,  the  lower 
and  the  upper.     Some  expenditure  is  needed  to  make  either 
of  them  complete  for  business  purposes  in  all  stages  of  water. 
At  the  lower  landing  there  is  wanted  an  embankment  down 
Sibley  street,  from  the  foot  of  Fourth  street  to  the  river ;   and 
a  levee  along  the  shore  — all  which  can  be  done  easily,  and 
some  progress  has  already  been  made  in  that  work.     The 
levee  has  also  been  much  improved,  but  yet  requires  further 
improvement.     A  want  of  space  on  the  levee  is  very  apparent, 
and  It  now  by  no  means  affords  the  necessary  facilities  for  the 
business  of  the  summer.    At  the  upper  landing  a  bridge  has 
been  built  above  high-water  mark  from  the  mainland  across 
the  slough  to  the  river  bank.     Between  the  two  landings  is  a 
precipitous  bluff,  one  hundred  feet  high,  which  might  be  graded 
down  so  as  to  make  a  good  levee,  and  perhaps  at  some  time  it 
will  be.     Besides  these  two  landings,  there  is  in  Ki':tson's  ad- 
dition, half  a  mile  below  the  old  lower  landing,  a  new  landing 
being  made,  which  is   now    connected  with  the  bluff  in  the 


'9 


TT 


OEOCRAPniCAL  AND  GENERAL  FEATURES. 


48 


I  coincs  in 
Then  came 
Smith  and 
cr  lots  than 
no  sort  of 
d  save  im- 
^aul,  if  the 
le  common 
rvations  of 
find  blocks 

11-streams ; 
ear  of  the 
es  down  to 
stream  for- 
id  emptied 
it  the  low- 
ith  water; 
h  an  aque- 
e  better, 
the  lower 
ake  either 
I  of  water, 
lent  down 
iver;   and 
asily,  and 
n-k.     The 
■es  further 
apparent, 
ies  for  the 
►ridge  has 
nd  across 
dings  is  a 
be  graded 
(le  time  it 
tson's  ad- 
V  landing 
ff  in  the 


rear  of  it  by  a  plank-road  upon  an  embankment  across  the  marsh 
*o  the  now  hotel  just  erected  there  —  the  "Fuller  House."  (For 
lev^e  improvements  see  page  59.) 

The  geology  of  Minnesota  is  a  subject  to  which  we  have 
paid  but  little  attention.  The  portion  of  the  territory,  how- 
ever, south  of  a  line  extending  east  and  west  through  Sauk 
rapids  of  the  Mississippi  river  and  Patterson  rapids  of  the 
^linnesota  river,  appears  to  be  of  the  usual  limestone  and  sand- 
stone formation  of  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  below ;  while 
above  that  line  the  granite  crops  out,  and  the  foraiation  is 
chiefly  of  the  primitive  rock.  This  formation  must  be  much 
modified,  however,  as  you  approach  Lake  Superior,  which  has 
been  the  theatre  of  the  most  gigantic  volcanic  movements  that 
Nature  ever  exhibited — to  which  wo  are  indebted  for  our  rich 
copper  regions.  They  are  west  of  Lake  Superior,  where  chaos 
seems  tumbled  into  worse  confusion,  amid  gorges,  and  hills, 
and  chasms,  which  art  alone  can  make  passable  or  even  jack- 
assable.  The  mines  are  situated  in  the  land  of  the  Chippe- 
was,  and  are  yet  unwrought  to  any  extent,  but  known  to  be 
as  rich  as  the  richest  of  those  mines  that  are  wrought  farther 
east,  along  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Superior. 

Relying  perhaps  too  much  on  the  dogmas  of  geologists,  we 
were  for  a  long  time  incredulous  about  the  existence  of  coal  in 
Minnesota ;  but  we  can  doubt  it  no  longer.  We  have  in  our 
possession  specimens  of  the  finest  quality  of  bituminous  coal, 
free  from  sulphur,  and  burning  with  far  less  cinder  than  the 
coal  of  Eock  island,  which  we  know  was  found  within  a  day's 
drive  above  St.  Paul.  We  can  no  longer  doubt  that  the  coal- 
fields of  Iowa,  passing  along  far  up  the  Valley  of  the  Des 
Moines,  cross  over  and  make  deposites  in  the  valley  of  the 
Blue-Earth  and  the  Minnesota. 

We  can  not  present  a  more  lively  picture  of  the  region  above 
us,  to  Sauk  rapids,  than  the  following  account  of  "  a  trip  from 
St.  Paul  to  Sauk  rapids,"  copied  from  the  Pioneer  of  June  12, 
1851,  which  will  be  new  to  some  of  our  readers : — 

•'  Two  lines  of  convenient  stages  make  each  two  trips  a  day 
from  St.  Paul  to  St.  Anthony  and  back.  We  left  on  Thursday 
morning  j  and  were  delighted  to  see  farming  operations  pro- 


itj 


44 


MfNNESOTA    AND   ITS   KKSOUKCJCS. 


i  'i  m 


el  amung  pnnne   which  is  s^.-oad  out  betuco.Uhc  two      w  « 
a  chstanco  (^  e.ght  miles.     This  alono  innpirccl  uh  with  fZh 

many  hmvlrcc  s  of  acres  under  tillage,  whicl,  were  covered  last 
year  only  wUh  wild  grass  and  flowers  of  the  prairie 

A  nnle  before  we  reached  St.  Anthony,  we  saw  its  brl^hf 

cxannne  moi-e  closely  ,!,„  ,„„,e,.i„l  „f  u,o  exL  k  Z'  f  „ 
cataract  becomes  a  crand  reilitv  «ir  1,  ","'"""■  "'» 
..nnglo,,  emotio,.  of  101  ^a"'/  «  Zi  v^tL       '"  ;'"' 

away,  <l„w„  the  steep,  rocky  channel,  helow  the  fal,  sweep 
the  angry  current.     liut  now  wo  hco-in  to  .„„  .T        '^'^P' 
fresh  paintcl  houses  of  the  villa  ers^rtl,:  Z^'^J^-Zi 
a  cttago,  and  there  a  substantial  two-story  house  ,n  l' , 
a.a.n  a  cheap  buihling,  without  cornice  «■  ^o  Z  '   ,"'iZ 
to  the  west-a  building  which  is  neither  a  one-stmyTo    a 
two-story  house  (detestable  style  of  architecture)-.,^  .Z 
upon  the  sloping  hillside  vario'us  houses  i,  tt^  p  o^^s    „f  eTJ 
tton,  and  piles  of  fresh-sawed  lumber  away  o/ZZ  t,  e  tu 
prmne-grass  of  last  year's  growth,  betokening  tl.a   buildi  1 
w,  I  soon  be  there,  and  streets  -of  St.  Anthofy,  .   w  kulwn 
only  by  reference  to  the  town  plat. 

"Hero  are  stores— now  law  ofHccs— more  new  I,onc«o 
more  piles  of  fresh-sawed  lumbe.-new  col  ars  clt:  ^ 
and  now  we  come  to  the  sawmills,  active  as  ever     hWle' 
machmes,  latb-factory,  lathes,  and  the  bustling  i„d„    i-y  o7f  e^' 
and  teams  ,a  and  around  the  mills,  like  a  big  heart  sendi!^ 
US  acttve  pulsations  of  business  all  over  town  and  imo    hf 
ne,ghbor.ng  country,  and  far  oiF  into  the  pineries     He  !  i,  ! 
company  of  gentlemen,  olScers,  from  Fort  SnenL  tnk' 
7^;!.t:  ^"^r  -'.  "■«  -erfall,  from^ :?;at'E 

is  deZ.d  .     .        7  ""'"'•""''  *™ly  "'ink,  that  St.  Anthony 
.8  destined  to  be  a  famous  and  fashionable  w-atering-placei 


GEOGRAPHICAL   AND   GENKRAL  FEATURES. 


46 


Iioro  on  tlint 

0  two  towns, 
IS  with  frewh 
t  a  time  —  so 

covered  last 
•ie. 

w  its  briglit 
5es,  and  saw 
ij?  more  like 
'0  upproacli 

spray,  and 
ibition,  tlio 
liolder  with 
proportions 
mind^  Far 
fills,  sweeps 
e  pleasant, 
land  :   here 

and  til  ere 
It,  peculiar 
itory  nor  a 
-and  away 
3SS  of  erec- 
ng  the  tall 
t  buildings 
ow  known 

houses— 
tnmenced ; 
f,  shingle- 
'ry  of  men 
"t  sending 
■  into  the 
Here  is  a 

1  taking  a 
lace  back 
Anthony 
^place — 


that  neither  Saratoga,  nor  Newport,  nor  Niagara,  can  offer 
equal  inducements  for  a  summer  residence  to  invalids  and  peo- 
j)l(',  of  leisure.  Now  wo  pass  along  Main  street,  and  hero  seems 
to  bo  an  unimpi'oved  space  intervening  between  the  upper  and 
lower  part  of  the  town  —  to  the  upper  town,  which  certainly 
Hliincs  with  prosperity,  everything  looking  new  and  clean. 
Here  wo  como  to  the  St.  Charles  hotel,  a  fine,  spacious  build- 
ing, full  of  strangers.  What  a  contrast  within  a  few  months  ! 
AVhat  a  change  since  a  year  ago,  when  the  stranger  who  vis- 
ited St.  Anthony  could  not  obtain  a  dinner,  unless  through  the 
compassion  of  some  citizen  he  were  invited  to  dine  at  some 
private  house  ! 

"After  dinner  at  the  St.  Charles,  the  whistle  of  the  steam- 
boat is  heard,  and  avo  must  luuTy  down  to  the  *  Governor  Ram- 
sey.' This  boat,  the  first  that  ever  rode  in  the  waters  of  the 
Mississippi  above  the  fall«i,  was  built  by  Captain  Rollins  and 
others,  who  for  enterprise  deserve  the  lasting  gratitude  of  Min- 
nesot.  ,  In  the  hands  of  such  men  a  comparatively  small  sum 
of  money  would  be  so  expended  as  to  open  the  navigation  of 
the  river  many  hundreds  of  miles  farther.  This  boat  differs 
from  all  other  boats,  in  having  locomotive  boilers,  consisting 
of  a  great  number  of  small  cylinders,  all  of  which,  coming  in 
contact  Avith  fire,  present  a  largo  extent  of  boiler-surface  within 
a  small  compass,  for  the  generation  of  steam.  Contrary  to  the 
predictions  of  man}',  the  boilers  do  not  become  crusted  with 
liine,  but  arc  kept,  Avith  proper  care,  entirely  clean.  The  en- 
gines are  also  different  from  any  that  avc  see  elsoAvhore  in  the 
Avest,  and  are  very  perfect  in  their  Avay ;  so  is  their  manage- 
ment by  the  engineers,  for  the  stern  paddle-Avheel  responds  to 
their  touch  quick  as  thought. 

"  The  boat  being  small,  of  course  does  not  afford  very  com- 
plete arrangements  for  passengers.  There  is  a  small  cabin 
Avhicli  sleeps  perhaps  a  dozen,  and  a  still  smaller  cabin  for 
ladles.  The  freight,  of  course,  is  a  very  important  part  of  the 
business  of  this  boat,  and  especially 'the  transportation  of  In- 
dian and  garrison  supplies.  Among  the  passengers  are  the 
Rev.  M.  Chase,  of  Natchez,  Miss.,  and  several  gentlemen  and 
ladies  from  the  state  of  Noav  York — three  ladies,  all  in  the 


46 


l^riNN'rSOTA    AND    ITS    RF-SOURCKS- 


•if. 


fi  t 


Moom  of  liealtli,  nnd  particularly  fino-lookinj-  wotnon,  Avho 
stand  in  tlic  relation  to  each  otiior  of  ^nandniotlier,  daughter, 
nnd  Knmd-dau-htcr.  Now  the  boat,  with  some  difficulty,  passes 
out  between  two  islands  into  the  main  channel,  and  heads  up 
Htivani,  the  water  swift,  oh  how  swift!  being  just  at  the  head 
of  the  falls.  A  feeble  boat  could  not  stem  the  current.  Fire 
up,  boys!  Dry  wood  this  season;  last  season  they  had  to 
I'lirn  green  wood.  It  takes  half  a  cord  an  hour  to  run  the 
l)oat. 

"For  a  long  distance  on  our  right  extends  a  boom,  parallel 
to  the  shore,  by  which  mill-logs  from  above  are  turned  down 
between  the  island  and  the  cast  shore  into  the  millpond.     The 
river  looks  much  smrdler  than  at  St.  Paul,  nnd  seems  to  be 
lifted  up  out  of  the  chasm  through  which  it  runs  below  the 
falls,  to  the  level  with  the  shores;  or  rather,  which  is  the  fact, 
there  is  no  chasm  until  the  river  finds  one  after  breaking  over 
the  apron  of  rock  at  St.  Anthony.     As  to  the  shores  of  the 
Upper  Mississi,)pi,  there  are  none  of  the  abrupt  bluffs,  such  as 
arc  seen  down  the  river;  but  the  land  comes  down,  by  an  easy, 
gradual  slope,  to  ;he  very  edge  of  the  water;  and  as  you  look 
awvy  far  back,  and  sec  the  smooth   land  now  covered  with 
green,  gradually  rising  as  the  view  now  recedes  from  the  river, 
fur,  far  away,  the  remotest  object  is  a  swelling  ridge  of  prairie- 
laud,  or  of  oak-opcnings,  on  the  right  hand  ;  and  on  the  left  a 
forest-notliing  short  of  a   dense  forest  of  vigorous  young 
trees,  as  ftu-  as  can  be  seen ;  and  in  the  channel,  islands,  some 
of  them  large,  covered  invariably  with  a  heavy  growth  of  elm, 
hackberry,  maple,  and  Cottonwood ;  and  whenever,  as  an  ex- 
ception to  the  general  appearance  of  the  shores,  there  is  any- 
thing  assuming  the  form  of  an  abrupt  bluff,  it  is  crowded  with 
pine-ti^ees.     Occasionally  a  spot  of  universal  beauty  bursts 
upon  the  view :  such  is  the  landscape  at  the  mouth  of  Rice 
creek,  or  Itasca  prairie,  or  the  eastern  shore  near  VAk  river 
Ihe  land  is  evidently  very  rich.     At  Itasca  we  noticed  the 
formation  to  be  a  '  .d  of  gravel,  upon  which  rested  a  body  of 
marl,  supporting  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  not  less  than  eighteen 
inches  or  two  feet  deep.     At  various  points  we  saw  extensive 
lields  under  cultivation -crops  of  outs,  potatoes,  everything 


OEOOHAlMriOAL    AND   OENKRAL    FKATURES. 


47 


vompii,  who 
ir,  daughter, 
culty,  paaseB 
1(1  heads  up 
at  tho  head 
rreiit.  Fire 
hoy  had  to 
•  to  run  the 

om,  parallel 
nrncd  down 
pond.  The 
seems  to  bo 
i  below  the 

is  the  fact, 
saking  over 
ores  of  the 
iffs,  such  as 
by  an  easy, 
IS  you  look 
vered  with 
n  the  river, 
5  of  prairie- 
1  the  left  a 
ous  young 
ands,  some 
vth  of  elm, 
as  an  ex- 
ere  is  any- 
wded  with 
ity  bursts 
^h  of  Rice 
Rlk  river, 
oticed  tho 
a  body  of 

eighteen 
extensive 
vcrything 


that  had  been  sowed  or  planted,  giving  rich  promiflo,  and  all 
with  whom  we  conversed  bearing  full  testimony  to  the  excel- 
lence of  every  kind  of  crop  that  has  been  tried  there.  The 
laud,  fields,  tho  crops,  speak  for  themselves,  and  there  is  no 

t  room  for  argument  al)out  it.  There  is  no  hcUer  land,  in  the 
whole  ralhy  of  the  Mhxissipjii,  than  tho  whole  region  extend- 
ing from  the  falls  of  8t.  Anthony  to  Sauk  rai)ids,  above  which 
we  have  not  been.  Wo  are  informed  that  tho  land  is  much 
the  same  above  Sauk  rapids,  which  place  is  northwest  of  St. 
i*aul  nearly  one  hundred  miles,  and  north  less  than  forty  miles. 
At  a  distance  of  from  three  to  Hfteen  miles  from  the  east  shore 
of  tho  rivor,  extends  a  tamarac  swamp  for  an  immense  distance 
beiwecn  St.  Anthony  and  Sauk  rajjids,  designed  by  Nature  it 
would  seem  expressly  to  furnish  farmers  with  rails  without 
splitting  them  —  a  hint  from  Providence  which  tho  settlers  up 
there  are  not  slow  to  comprehend. 

"At  various  intervals  along  the  river  the  trees,  &c.,  in  this 

^     tamarac-swamp  are  visible  far  in  the  background,  picturesque 

f  as  a  fr»rest  of  tapering  masts.  What  lies  east  beyond  that 
swamp  we  do  not  know;  but  Benton  county  may  well  be  con- 
tent with  the  vast  extent  of  fine  arable  lands  that  are  in  sight 

-*  of  the  river,  suflicient  for  ten  thousaiul  farmers,  and  as  yet  un- 
claimed. The  soil  is  exactly  like  that  of  Rock  river — quite 
as  little  waste  land  —  much  more  timber;  and  with  a  land- 
scape which  we  can  recollect  nothing  down  the  river  to  com- 
pare with,  unh.  ss  it  be  tho  shores  of  tho  Mississippi  at  the 
lower  rapids,  including  tho  background  of  Nauvoo  and  Mont- 
rose. The  fn-st  night  we  passed  on  board  tho  boat,  at  the 
mouth  of  Elk  river.  (The  'Governor  Ramsey'  does  not  run 
at  night.)  The  next  morning  wo  moved  onward,  every  mile 
attracting-  our  attention  to  new  beauties  of  scenery.  All  seen.  \ 
surprised  — we  certainly  were  — at  the  vast  extent  of  forests 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river.  Every  few  rods  we  met  a  ca- 
noeful  of  W^innebagoes,  returning  with  their  goods  from  'the 
])ajment.'  There,  in  a  huge  bark-canoe,  filled  with  squaws, 
and  papooses,  and  bales  of  goods,  comes  their  head-chief,  Wln- 
uisliik.  Himself  'fitting  in  the  stern  and  steering. 

"Most  of  the  canoes,  on  the  fi].proach  oi'the  steamboat, slide 


fi- 


Hiftj 


48 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   RESOURCES. 


out  into  some  little  nook  or  eddy,  near  the  shore,  until  our  boat 
has  passed.  At  short  intervals  we  find  farms,  some  of  them 
large,  and  all  giving  good  promise. 

"  The  '  Thousand  islands'  is  an  exaggeration  ;  hut  then  the 
islands  are  so  many  and  so  large,  that  they  seem  to  have  taken 
resolute  possession  of  the  channel,  as  if  to  drive  the  stream 
back— which,  however,  swiftly  glides  between  them,  giving 
the  boat  good  warm  exercise  to  brave  the  current.     We  conic 
to  the  granite  formation  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  striking  out 
boldly  across  the  river,  to  bar  the  channel.     Useless.     What 
obstacle  Avill  not  the  power  of  stoam  overcome  ?     The  boat 
dashes  across  through  ripple  and  eddy,  then  tacking  suddenly 
takes  another  course,  buffeting  the  stream,  escaping  the  rocks, 
and  nding  in  triumph  above  and  beyond  the  chain  of  rock. 
Good,  old,  primitive  granite,  how  familiar  you  look !  — the  very 
uiaterial  of  those   cragged  mountains  among  which  we  were 
born.     How  like  the  familiar  faces  of  the  old  men  does  it 
seem,  who  tottered  to  the  church  where  we  worshipped  in 
infancy! 

"  We  are  at  Sauk  rapids,  and  here  the  boat  lies  panting  and 
cooling  herself  in  the  swift  water  like  a  weary  beast.     Let  her 
rest,  while  we  walk  along  the  shore  of  the  rapids,  about  three 
miles,  to  the  head  thereof     We  leave  the  boat  and  warehouse 
and  the  few  teams  that  are  busy  there  with  freight  and  pas- 
sengers.    How  wide  the  river  is,  spreading  out  over  a  vast 
expanse  of  granite  fragments !  — swift,  but  nowhere  precipi- 
tous, and  evidently  impassable  for  steamboats.     But  what  a 
chance  for  building  a  canal  on  the  eaH  bank,  by  simply  con 
structing  a  wall  of  granite,  laid  in  cement,  without  excavatinff 
and  without  any  expense  but  a  wall  and  three  or  four  locksl 
And  what  an  excellent  water-power  all  along  the  rapids,  with- 
out need  of  so  much  as  a  dam,  unless  perhaps  a  short  wing- 
dam       I  he  Indian  trade  is  now  mostly  concentrated  at  Watab. 
which  IS  on  a  delightful  prairie  three  or  four  miles  farther  up 
the  ri/er.  ^ 

.  "But  herftis  Russell's,  at  the  head  of  the  rapids.  Here  is 
a  good,  comfortable  house,  stables,  oxen,  fat  swine,  large  ci^- 
closures,  fields  of  oats,  and  everything  to  indicate  tlP-ift  and 


GKOGRAPHTCAL  AND  OKNKRAL  FKATUKKS. 


49 


until  oar  boat 
iomo  of  them 

but  then  the 
to  have  taken 
ve  the  stream 

them,  giving 
it.  We  come 
!,  striking  out 
eless.  "What 
?  The  boat 
ing  suddenly 
ng  the  rocks, 
bain  of  rock. 
l!  —  the  very 
lich  we  were 
men  does  it 
orshipped  in 

••  panting  and 
ist.    Let  her 
,  about  three 
1  warehouse, 
jht  and  pas- 
over  a  vast 
lere  precipi- 
But  what  a 
simply  con 
;  excavating 
•  four  locks ! 
I'apids,  with- 
short  wing- 
d  at  Watab, 
s  farther  up 

Is.  Here  is 
3>  large  cij- 
i  thrift  and 


good  living.  Here  reside  the  judge  and  the  clerk  of  the  court, 
and  courts  must  and  will  have  things  comfortable.  The  next 
morning  (Saturday)  returned  to  the  boat,  which  cast  off  her 
ropes  at  eight  o'clock,  and  we  swept  swiftly  back  through  the 
enchanting  scene  which  we  have  above  hastily  sketched — 
reached  St.  Anthony  at  4,  P.  M. ;  took  stage  back  to  our  own 
delightful  St.  Paul  and  the  labors  of  the  press,  highly  delight- 
ed, and  more  confident  than  ever  of  the  glorious  destiny  of 
Minnesota." 

The  geograpliy  of  the  Mississippi  between  St.  Paul  and  St. 
Anthony  may  be  thus  illustrated  :  Sit  at  a  table,  with  your 
face  westward,  and  lay  your  left  arm  horizontally  upon  the 
table,  bending  it  at  an  angle  of  for*^v-five  degrees.  Your  shoulder 
will  represent  the  location  of  St.  J\'iul,  your  elbow  the  location 
of  Fort  Snelling  (the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  Minnesota 
rivers),  and  your  hand  the  location  of  St.  Anthony. 

In  ih^  forearm,  from  the  elhow  to  the  hand,  the  falls  have 
produced  a  paralysis.  That  portion  of  the  river  is  not  navi- 
gable. Therefore,  as  the  shoulder  is  nearer  the  head  than  the 
elhow,  and  nearer  the  head  than  a  paralyzed  forearm  can  be 
that  has  no  power  of  motion,  we  say,  with  the  utmost  truth  and 
reaso-  ,  that  St.  Paul  is  at  the  head  ofiHtrigation  for  such  steam- 
boats JiS  can  afford  to  run  in  the  trade  up  the  river  from  St. 
Louis  and  Galena. 

As  regards  temperance,  this  territory  is  well  adapted  to  the 
wants  of  the  temperate  and  the  intemperate.  The  legislature 
at  its  recent  session  refused  to  pass  the  restrictive  law  :  conse- 
quently on  the  east  of  the  Mississippi  the  spirits  are  manifest, 
when,  how,  and  where  they  please.  On  the  tvcst  of  the  Misis- 
sippi,  by  a  wise  provision  in  the  treaties  by  which  the  Indian 
title  was  ex^Miguished,  tluj  trade  and  intercourse  law  is  in 
operation,  and  spirituous  liquors  of  all  kinds  are  prohibited 
under  the  severest  penalties.  This  fact  is  noticed  particularly, 
because  it  is  very  important  that  every  immigrant  should  un- 
derstand the  matter,  that  he  may  locate  to  suit  his  propensi- 
ties.  Tliose  whose  liberty  is  not  confined  in  bottles,  casks, 
and  decanters,  will  suffer  far  less  inconvenience  by  making 
tl'eir  homos  in  the  country  west  of  tho  :Mississij)pi ;   while  all 

3 


W\ 


50 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS    RESOUECES. 


I  f     ! 


:|       ! 


i 


who  believe  that  potato- ^vhiskcy  is  the  staff  of  life,  are  at  per- 
fect liberty  to  remain  east  of  the     '  " 


big  river." 

In  these  random  remarks  about  Minnesota,  in  the  hurried 
sketch  of  the  territory  above  written  — truthful,  but  rough  and 
without  method  — we  have  omitted  to  mention  many  facts, 
which,  however  disconnected,  ought  to  appear  in  a  general 
view  of  the  territory.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned  the 
country  extending  from  the  Mississippi,  below  the  Minnesota, 
south  to  the  Iowa  line. 

The  valley  of  the  Cannon  river  now  contains  many  settle- 
ments, and  is  a  fertile  agricultural  region, -..p,n  watered  and 
well  timbered.     Many  towns  have  sprung  into  existence  lately 
on   the   Mississippi  river,  all   on   the   west,   or   Minnesota  side 
Hastmgs,    Red    Wing,    Wabashaw,    Winona,    Minnesota    City| 
Minneowah,    Mount   Vernon,   Brownsville,   and   many   other 
towns  and  villages,  have  surprised  us  by  the  apparently  ma- 
gical manner  of  their  springing  into   existence.      In  many 
places,  where  one  year  ago  the  whoop  of  the  Indian  alone 
disturbed  the  quiet,  may  now  be  heard  the  hammer,  the  saw, 
or  the  puffing  of  steam-mills,  while  the  eye  beholds  all  the  im- 
provements necessary  to  the  comfort  of  a  large  and  rapidly- 
increasing  population.     The  distance  by  the  river  has  gradu- 
ally diminished  from  Galena  and  St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul.    River 
distances  at  first  are  always  exaggerated.     It  is  less  than  nine 
hundred  miles  from  St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul,  and  less  than  four 
hundred  from  Galena  to  St.  Paul.     The  course  from  Galena  to 
St.  Paul  is  more  west  than  north.     The  fare  between  St.  Louis 
and  St.  Paul,  with  elegant  cabin  accommodations  and  faro, 
has  usually  varied  from   eight  to  twelve  dollars ;   and,  from 
Galena  to  St.  Paul,  from    five   to  six  dollars.    It  will  be  very 
low  this  season.     When  the  traveller  comes  up,  he  will  reach 
Minnesota  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  long  before  he  reaches 
it  on  the  east  bank.     You  pass  twenty  or  thirty  miles  through 
Lake  Pepin,  with  odd-looking  peaks,  and  crags,  and  cliffs, 
ovedooking  you.     This  lake  is  a  mere  widening  of  the  Missis- 
flippi.     All  is  "Wisconsin  on  the  east  side  until  you  come  to  the 
St.  Croix.     Entering  that,  if  tlie  boat  first  goes  to  Stillwater. 


OEOGKAPIIICAL  AND   GENEEAL   FEATURES. 


61 


are  at  per- 


il e  luirried 
rough  and 
any  facts, 
a  general 
ioned  the 
Minnesota, 

my  settle- 
tered  and 
nee  lately 
esota  side, 
sota    City, 
my   other 
ently  ma- 
in many 
ian  alone 
,  the  saw, 
-11  the  ini- 
'■  rapidly- 
as  gradu- 
il.    Jiiver 
than  nine 
than  four 
jralena  to 
St.  Louis 
and  fare, 
ind,  from 
1  be  very 
ill  reacli 
e  reaches 
i  through 
nd  clifis, 
e  Missis- 
ne  to  the 
'ilhvater. 


you  find  that  also  widened  into  a  lake,  up  which  you  proceed 
tlm-ty  miles  to  Stillwater,  Wisconsin  still  being  at  your  right 
hand.  But  Wisconsin  extends  no  farther  than  the  St.  Croix, 
up  the  Mississippi  river.  The  boat  stops  an  hour  at  Stillwa- 
ter; touches  at  Willow  river,  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake; 
stops  at  Prescott  or  Point  Douglas  again,  at  the  mouth,  and 
then  proceeds  up  the  Mississippi  again.  From  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Croix  to  St.  Paul  is  thirty  miles.  You  pass  Cottage 
Grove  and  Red  Rock  ;  and  here,  three  miles  below  St.  Paul,  is 
(lid  Kaposia  Village,  on  the  west  bank.  Going  on,  you  pass 
around  a  great  bend  that  takes  the  boat  southwest,  and  in  the 
curve  of  this  great  bend  in  the  river  you  see  St.  Paul,  high  and 
far,  all  around,  under  and  upon  the  bluff,  and  upon  teiTace  after 
terrace  beyond  and  behind  the  bluff — the  giant  outlines  of  the 
most  vigorous  city  in  tlie  northwest.  At  St.  Paul  you  will 
find  stages  waiting  to  take  you  to  St.  Anthony.  If  you  stop 
in  St.  Paul,  you  will  find  good  hotels,  and  can  get  fair  board 
at  five  dollars  per  week.  If  you  conclude  to  stay  with  us, 
you  may  buy  a  lot,  and  put  up  a  small  house  in  ten  days.  For 
green  dimension  lumber  you  will  pay  twelve  dollars  per  thou- 
sand feet  at  the  St.  Paul  mills,  or  nine  dollars  at  St.  Anthony, 
which  is  quite  as  cheap,  or  a  shade  lower.  For  shingles  you 
will  pay  two  dollars  to  two  and  a  half  per  thousand.  You  will 
buy  nails,  glass,  putty,  provisions,  everything  you  want,  in  St. 
Paul,  about  as  cheap  as  in  Galena  or  St.  Louis.  If  you  are  a 
farmer,  love  liquor,  and  want  land  on  the  east  side  of  the  river 
—  good  laud,  if  not  the  very  best — you  can  have  it.  Or  you 
can  go  on  unsurveyed  land,  where  good  farms  may  be  had 
for  the  improvement,  and  government  will  not  ask  to  be  paid 
for  them  for  years.  Talk  of  California  or  Australia  as  you 
may,  there  is  no  country  in  the  world  which  affords  an  equal 
prospect  of  growing  rich  with  Minnesota;  and  while  gain- 
ing wealth,  you  can  enjoy  the  blessings  of  health  and  the  com- 
fort of  a  vigorous  ""amily  growing  up  around  you.  No  country 
atlbrds  better  facilities  for  schools  or  for  places  of  worship  thau 
the  settled  portion  of  Minnesotf 


52 


MINNESOTA    AND    ll^'    liEbOfliCliH. 


14  i 


m  I 

,j|  J  , 


CIIAPTEIl  III. 

OrNERAL    RFMAllKS    AND    RKFLECTIONS AGRICULTURAL     ADVAN- 

TA(JrS A     TALK      WfTH      lAUMF.RS,    CAPITAI-ISTS,    MECHANICS, 

LAHORKRS,    TOUUrSTSi,    AM)    ALL    OTHERS, 

TiiPgRevoreiul  E.  1).  Ncill,  in  ?i  "  Thanksgiving"  discourse, 
<loliver(fd  on  tlio  26th  December,  1850,  the  first  thanksgiving 
day  appointed  hy  tlie  governor  of  tlie  territory,  after  speaking 
of  the  hardships  of  the  early  pioneers  of  the  otlier  portions  of 
tlie  United  States,  says :  "  No  such  distresses  have  been  felt 
by  us,  the  early  colonists  of  Minnesota.  Uninterrupted  gen- 
eral health  has  prevailed  throughout  the  land.  The  country 
so  far  has  been  as  near  an  El  Dorado  as  any  ever  found  be- 
neath the  skies,  and  its  fountains  are  as  renovating  as  any 
that  are  not  fountains  of  eternal  life.  While  the  cities  in  the 
valley  below  were  filled  with  gloom  by  the  reappearance  of  that 
mysterious  scourge,  the  Asiatic  cholera  —  while  the  ploughs 
were  lei't  to  rust  in  the  field,  and  the  crops  to  remain  unhar- 
vested  —  we  were  permitted  to  pursue  our  callings  with  alacri- 
ty. Not  an  authenticated  case  of  the  death  of  one  of  our  citi- 
zens by  that  epidemic  can  be  discovered. 

"  In  addition  to  general  health,  we  have  been  free  from  the 
hardships  of  emigrant  life,  and  have  possessed  all  the  neces- 
saries of  existence.  Though  not  far  from  a  thousand  miles  by 
the  usual  route  of  travel,  northwest  of  the  city  of  St.  Louis, 
and  though  there  are  no  roads  to  our  settlements  from  Lake 
Superior,  or  the  eapitols  of  Wisconsin  and  Iowa,  oiu-  territory 
has  been  easy  of  access.  Instead  of  being  weeks  upon  the 
way,  toiling  with  oxc.  through  swamps  and  pathless  forests, 
camping  out  by  night  with  scarcely  any  covering  but  the  fir- 
mament studded  with  stars,  and  with  no  lamps  but  those  bung 


!i 


AG  lllCU  LTV  It  XL    ADVANTAOKS.    KTC 


58 


L  ADVAN- 
ECHANICS, 

discourse, 
nksgiving 

speaking 
ortions  of 

been  felt 
pted  gen- 
e  country 
Pound  be- 
g  as  any 
ies  in  tlie 
ce  of  that 
3  ploughs 
in  unhar- 
th  alacri- 
F  our  citi- 

from  the 
he  neces- 

miles  by 
3t.  Louis, 
om  Lake 

territory 
upon  the 
s  forests, 
t  the  fir- 
ose  liung 


in  heaven,  our  immigrants  have  been  speedily  transported 
hither  in  noble  and  convenieut  steamers,  and  with  but  little 
expenditure  of  their  means,  and  with  no  bitter  thoaght  that 
they  had  been  obliged  to  leave  some  of  their  family  upon  the 
boundless  prairies,  a  feast  for  the  wolf  and  the  bear.  Nor 
have  any  of  our  inhabitants  been  destitute  of  the  necessaries 
of  life.  •  Tradition  declares  that  at  one  time  the  colonists 
of  Plymouth  were  reduced  to  a  pint  of  corn,  which  being 
parched  and  distributed  gave  to  each  individual  only  five  ker- 
nels.' The  new  settler  in  this  territory  has  always  had  an 
abundance.  The  farmer  has  added  to  his  gains;  and  it  espe- 
cially becomes  him  to  observe  this  day,  and  with  gratitude  to 
praise  the  God  of  the  harvest.  It  also  becomes  us  to  give 
thanks  to-day,  that  we  are  at  peace  with  the  Indian  tribes 
within  our  borders. 

"The  poetesses  of  New  England  have  sung  our  praises. 
Authors  have  called  us  the  '  New-England  of  the  West,'  and 
her  inhabitants  would  love  to  see  us  adopt  their  social  and 
ecclesiastical  forms.  The  public  presses  of  the  middle  and 
southern  states  have  viewed  us  with  a  kindly  eye.  No 
scenes  like  those  enacted  at  Alton,  Nauvoo,  or  Vicksburg, 
have  been  perpetrated  here.  To  go  to  Texas  was  once  sy- 
nonymous with  fleeing  from  justice;  on  the  contrary,  to  emi- 
grate to  Minnesota  implies  a  disposition  to  be  active,  intelli- 
gent, industrious,  and  virtuous,  and  there  has  never  been  any 
stigma  attached  to  the  act. 

"  Though  this  reputation  we  enjoy  is  to  a  great  degree  un- 
deserved, let  us  see  that  we  do  not  lose  it.  If  the  words  are 
true — 

"  '  lie  that  filches  from  me  my  good  nnme, 
Rob3  me  of  that  -vvliich  not  enriches  him, 
And  makes  me  poor  indeed,' 

it  is  proper  for  Minnesota  to  frown  upon  all  who  by  their  con- 
duct disgust  strangers  and  residents.  They  arc  her  robbers. 
Ihey  impoverfth  the  territory,  without  enriching  themselves 

"Finally,  we  should  give  thanks  to  God  for  our  fair  pros- 
pects. It  was  a  common  belief  of  the  early  explorers,  that 
one  of  the  great  thoroughfares  of  nations,  from  Europe  to 


64 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS    KESOL'ROKS. 


China,  would  pass  tlirougli  this  district  of  America.  Henne- 
pin, La  Salle,  and  Carver,  were  confident  that  there  would  be 
a  short  route  to  the  Pacific  by  the  head  waters  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi.  The  latter  looked  forward  to  the  time  when  a 
communication  would  be  opened  between  New  York  and  the 
remotest  West.  View  the  map  of  the  United  States,  and  you 
will  readily  perceive  that  we  occupy  the  geographical  centre, 
and  that  St.  Paul  is  in  the  same  latitude  as  Oregon  city.  Is 
there  not  a  prospect  that  in  half  a  century,  the  Indian  lodges 
1  hat  now  suiTOund  us  will  be  far  removed  ;  that  the  shores  of 
Lake  Pepin  will  be  the  abode  of  many  a  maiden  as  constant  to 
her  first  love  as  Winona,  and  in  addition  strengthened  and 
ennobled  by  the  religion  of  Christ;  that  the  steam-engine, 
either  in  boat  or  car,  will  move  from  Montreal  to  tho  rapids  of 
St.  Mary,  and  stop  at  the  roaring  waters  of  St.  Anthony ;  that 
a  populous  city  will  be  the  capital  of  a  state,  and  a  depot  like 
Oamascus,  or  Petra,  or  Babylon,  in  olden  time,  fo/  the  produc- 
tions of  the  south,  the  furs  of  the  north,  the  manufactures  of  the 
east,  and  the  gold,  or,  Avhat  is  better,  the  golden  grains,  of  the 
west ;  that  the  gates  of  the  Rocky  mountains  will  be  thrown 
open,  and  the  locomotive  groaning  and  rumbling  from  Oregon 
city,  will  stop  here  with  its  heavy  train  of,  perhaps,  Asiatic 
produce,  on  its  way  to  Dubuque,  or  some  other  point ;  that  the 
mission  stations  of  Remnica  and  Lac  qui  Parle  will  be  sup- 
planted by  the  white  schoolhouse,  the  church-spire,  and  high- 
er seminary  of  learning !     Is  it  not  true,  even  now,  that — 

"  'Behind  tlie  seared  squaw's  birch  canoe, 
Tlie  steamer  smokes  and  raves, 
And  city  lots  are  staked  for  sale 
Above  old  Indian  graves.' 


Do  we  not 


hear  the  tread  of  pioneers 


Of  nations  yet  to  be ; 
The  iirst  low  wash  of  waves  where  soon 
Sliftll  roll  a  human  sea? 

"  'Tlie  rudiments  of  empire  here 
Are  plastic  yet  and  warm; 
The  chaos  of  a  mighty  world 
Is  rounding  into  form. 


9, 


Henne- 
would  be 
he  Upper 
e  when  a 
k  and  the 
I,  and  you 
!al  centre, 
city.  Is 
an  lodges 
shores  of 
snstant  to 
ened  and 
m-engine, 
rapids  of 
my;  that 
lepot  like 
e  produc- 
ires  of  the 
ns,  of  the 
e  thrown 
n  Oregon 
s,  Asiatic 
;  that  the 
11  be  sup- 
and  high- 
hat — 


AGRICULTUKAL   ADVAJ^TAGES,    ETC.  Ml 

•' '  Each  rude  nnd  jostling  fragment  soon 
Its  fitting  place  shall  find; 
The  raw  material  of  a  state  — 
Its  muscle  and  its  mind.' " 

For  the  benefit  of  the  farmers,  capitalists,  mechanics,  tourists 
and  all  others  now  arriving,  I  give  such  facts,  practical  sug 
gestions,  and  sound  advice,  as  a  long  residence,  and  an  intimate 
acquaintance  with  the  advantages  and  capacities  of  Minne- 
sota have  thrown  within  my  reach. 

Farmers  have  been  told  repeatedly  that  no  more  productive 
land  than  this  is  to  be  found,  and  also  of  the  amount  and  qual- 
ity of  the  crops ;  the  immense  size  and  rapid  growth  of  all 
kinds  of  garden  vegetables ;  the  superiority  of  the  bottom 
lands  for  grazing  purposes;  and,  also,  that  no  business  can 
possibly  pay  better  for  the  amount  of  capital  invested,  than 
the  establishment  of  at  least  a  hundred  dairies,  on  a  large 
scale,  the  manufacture  of  butter  and  cheese  for  exportation, 
and  the  raising  of  cattle,  sheep,  hogs,  poultry,  &c.,  for  home 
consumption. 

I  sujipose  that  all  men  will  now  take  tliis  for  granted ;  it 
is  too  late  in  the  day  to  argue  the  question  with  anybody ; 
in  fact,  the  knowing  ones  are  already  rushing  in  upon  us  much 
faster  tlian  accommodations  can  be  found  for  them. 

I  will,  however,  not  get  into  any  glow  of  enthusiasm  about 
it,  nor  allow  my  personal  interests  or  predilections  in  favor  of 
any  one  portion  of  the  territory  over  all  others  — the  Minne- 
sota river  country  for  instance  — the  usual  hobby  of  almost 
ill  our  writers— to  influence  me  in  a  ftiir  and  impartial  review 
>f  the  merits  of  the  whole  territory. 

I  say,  tlien,  that  all  the  land  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
•vhich  is  at  all  adapted  to  farming  purposes  is  good,  and  that 
\i\  objections  as  to  the  soil  being  too  light  and  sandy,  are  not 
based  on  a  proper  knowlcrlge  of  the  adaptation  of  soils  and 
climates  to  each  other.     The  heavy,  wet,  black  soils,  under- 
laid by  the  cold  clay-beds  of  Illinois  and  Iowa,  would  no  more 
suit  the  climate  of  Minnesota,  than  would  those  of  the  tropics 
suit  the  climate  of  the  frozen  regions. 
The  summers  of  Minnesota  are  short,  and  require  a  warm 


^i 


66 


MINNESOTA   AND    ITS    KKSOURCKS. 


li 


Bandy  soil  to  protliico  good  crops,  wliicli  consequently  never 
fail.  Add  to  this  our  late  autumnal  season,  which  lingers  into 
the  lap  of  winter,  in  November,  the  absence  of  frosts  weeks 
later  than  in  the  states  just  south  of  us,  and  the  refreshing, 
copious  thunder-showers,  which  occur  so  frequently  to  moisten 
and  replenish  the  bounteous  earth,  all  tend  to  facilitate  the 
growth  and  maturity  of  such  crops  as  must  be  seen  to  be  cred- 
ited. 

Excluding  the  tamarac  swamps,  and  some  rather  rough  and 
barren  spots  of  broken  ground,  interspersed  among  tliem  to  the 
east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  on  its  head  waters  —  the  land  is 
as  good  as  any  farmer  need  desire,  and  will  produce  all  kinds 
of  crops  grown  in  the  states  below.  The  only  choice  for  a 
farmer  to  exercise,  is  as  to  where  his  particular  location  shall 
be  made,  and  this  each  one  will  soon  determine  for  himself 

I  advise  him  to  visit  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota  river, 

whete  he  will  find  land,  wood,  and  water,  prairie,  and  timber 

combined,  and  forming  as  rich  a  country  as  can  be  found  in 

the  west.     A  dozen   steamboats  are  now  running  from  St.  Paul 

to  the  settlements  on  the  Minnesota  river,  and  are  crowded  every 

trip  with  freight  and  passengers. 

By  going  away  up  the  Minnesota  river,  he  will  have  the  ad- 
vantage of  being  able  to  open  up  as  good  a  farm  as  on  the 
eastern  side,  and  in  not  being  required  to  pay  for  It  for  several 
years,  as  the  lands  are  not  surveyed,  and  will  not  be  for  some 
time  yet.  Or  he  can  go  up  the  Mississippi  river,  and  locate  at 
any  point  betAveen  St.  Anthony  and  Crow  Wing,  where  there 
is  a  good  home  market,  for  all  that  he  can  raise,  at  his  own 
door. 

The  Chippewa,  or  Ojibway  tribe  of  Indians,  and  Fort 
Ripley,  are  located  in  this  direction ;  while  the  main  pine  re- 
gion of  the  territory,  viz.,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, Leaf,  and  Crow  Wing  rivers,  yet  remain  to  be  opened. 
Inarming  produce  will  find  a  quick  and  steady  market  in  years 
to  come  in  this  particular  section,  when  it  will  be  a  perfect 
drug  from  over  abundance,  and  no  consumers  in  the  shape  of 
lumbermen  and  manufacturing  operatives  in  other  quarters. 

I  want  every  farmer  to  locate  with  reference  to  the  future, 


AfiRICULTL'BAL   ADVANTAGKS,    KTO. 


57 


tly  never 
gers  into 
ts  weeks 
ifreshing, 
)  moisten 
itate  the 
be  cred- 

Higli  and 
sm  to  the 
\  land  is 
ill  kinds 
ce  foi'  a 
ion  shall 
iiself. 
ta  river, 
I  timber 
ibund  in 
St.  Paul 
ed  every 

the  ad- 
ou  the 
■  several 
[or  some 
ocate  at 
re  there 
his  own 

id     Fort 
pine  re- 

Missis- 
opened. 
n  years 
I  j)e.rfect 
hape  of 
ters. 

future, 


when  farming,  not  speculation,  will  bo  the  business  of  the  ter 

ritory. 

The  soil  of  tlie  delta,  between  St.  Paul,  Point  Douglas,  and 
Stillwater,  resting  upon  a  bed  of  limestone,  is  well  adapted  to 
the  growth  of  ^vmter  wheat,  and  will  soon  fill  up  with  a  largo 
fanning  2)opulation. 

The  laiul  is  finely  situated,  and,  from  its  contiguity  to  the 
above-named  points,  and  the  easy  access  to  both  rivers,  affords 
many  desirable  and  valuable  locations.  Cottage-Grove  Prairie 
is  well  known. 

The  Brophy  settlsment  is  within  a  few  miles  of  St.  Paul 
and  St.  Anthony,  and  is  situated  amid  many  beautiful  lakes, 
while  the  soil  is  good,  the  timber  plentiful,  and  markets  close 
at  hand. 

Lake  Minnetonka,  which  is  situated  twelve  miles  west  of  St. 
Anthony,  is  in  another  fine  farming  region,  and  many  immi- 
grants have  located  there;  also  the  most  of  a  pioneer  associa- 
tion from  Northampton,  Massachusetts.  The  country  along 
the  river  farther  north,  and  near  Hastings  and  Red  Wing  to 
the  south,  is  also  of  the  very  best  quality,  and  — now  that  we 
are  prepared  to  exhibit  Minnesota,  even  at  the  World's  Fair, 
if  we  could  get  her  there— will  gladden  a  farmer's  heart  to' 
behold. 

Before  you  choose,  then,  look  around  you,  and  visit  any  or 
all  of  these  places  immediately. 

If  you  do  not  find  a  claim  to  suit  you  — one  combining  all 
the  requisites  of  soil,  wood,  and  water,  with  a  frontage  on  the 
river,  and  a  mill-stream  running  through  it  (and  the  most  of 
these  are  already  taken) -then  buy  out  some  one  already 
located,  or  take  the  next  best  that  you  can  find  ;  make  a  claim 
somewhere,  and  improve  it ;  do  not  remain  around  the  town  a 
single  day,  but  go  to  work  with  a  stout  heart,  and  a  determi- 
nation to  overcome  all  obstacles.     Do  not  be  discouraged  by 
bad  weather,  or  the  selfishness  or  indifference  of  any  that  you 
may  apply  to  for  advice  or  aid  in  effecting  your  first  settle- 
ment.     Any  aid  that  can  be  given  in  advising  the  immigrant 
as  to  the  proper  course  to  pursue  in  selecting  a  favorable  point 
ior  location,  openings  for  the  investment  of  capital,  and  situa- 

3* 


"^mx 


18 


AIINNKSOTA    AND   ITS    RKSOUKCKS. 


tions  for  young  business  men,  that  I  may  be  aware  of,  will  be 
cliocrfully  afforded  by  myself'. 

Push  ahead,  then,  I  say,  with  a  hopeful  heart,  and  remem- 
ber that  it  takes  energy,  invincible  determination,  and  a  large 
expenditure  of  toil,  and  sweat,  and  muscle,  with  a  rigid  econ- 
omy, to  achieve  success,  even  in  IMinnesota. 

Capitalists  will  here  find  a  wider  field  for  the  profitable  in- 
vestment of  their  funds  than  can  possibly  be  found  elsewhere. 
ll'  they  will  speculate  in  Lands,  we  have  a  hundred  town-sites 
at  a  hundred  available  points,  where  lots  can  bo  bought  cheap, 
with  a  prospect  of  a  rapid  advance,  if  a  liberal  policy  be  pur- 
sued ;  if  not,  ninety  of  them  will  always  remain  in  embryo,  and 
exist  as  at  present  upon  a  sheet  of  rolled-up  paper.  I  would 
advise  town  proprietors  to  offex  very  liberal  inducements,  and 
to  give  at  least  every  alternate  lot  to  any  man  Avho  will  im- 
jirove  by  building  and  making  it  his  permanent  residence. 
They  will  find  their  advantage  in  the  rapid  augmentation  in 
value  of  the  remaining  portions.  But  we  want  men  to  come 
here  with  money  to  invest  in  producing  something,  in  steam 
and  water,  saw  and  grist  mills,  which  are  now  much  wanted 
in  all  directions.  A  hundred  mills  would  pay  well  now,  if 
they  could  be  at  once  located  at  St.  Paul,  St.  Anthony,  and 
the  Sauk  rapids,  the  St.  Croix,  Lake  Pepin,  Lake  Minnetonka, 
and  more  especially  on  the  Minnesota  river,  as  there  are  but  few 
now  there. 

We  also  want  a  manufactory  of  wooden  ware,  some  tanneries, 
glass-works  (gas  also  in  a  year  or  two),  foundries,  furnaces, 
boatyards,  &c.,  &c. ;  everything,  in  short,  from  a  steamboat  to  a 
jackplane,  from  a  ploughshare  to  a  locomotive-engine  to  run  on 
the  Minnesota  and  Northwestern  railroad,  which  is  now  surveyed 
and  will  soon  be  in  operation.  Mark  that,  stranger,  as  you  go 
along,  for  it  will  be  done  ! 

Mechanics  and  laborers  will  find  work  everywhere,  in  town 
and  country.  There  is  a  demand  for  both,  and  high  wages 
ready.  Mechanics  get  all  kinds  of  prices,  according  to  the 
trade  and  skill  of  the  man.  Two  dollars  per  day  is  the  medium 
price.  Common  laborers  got  from  one  dollar  to  one  dollar  and  a 
quarter  per  day. 


AQRICLLTURAL   ADVANTAGES,    ETC. 


59 


)f,  will  be 

cl  rem  era- 
id  a  large 
igid  econ- 

Pitable  in- 
Isewhere. 
own-sites 
lit  cheap, 
y  be  pur- 
bryo,  and 

I  would 
ents,  and 

will  im- 
esidence. 
itation  in 
I  to  come 
in  steam 
I  wanted 
1  now,  if 
ony,  and 
inetonka, 
e  but  few 

tanneries, 
furnaces, 
boat  to  a 
0  run  on 
'  surveyed 
IS  you  go 

in  town 
^h  wages 
g  to  the 
5  medium 
[ar  uuu  u 


Those  who  can  not  Cnd  work  in  the  towns  will  be  sure  to  do  so 
on  the  farms,  or  on  the  government  roads  now  in  process  of  con- 
struction. Almost  any  man  can  find  work  in  St.  Paul,  however. 
Gentlemen  of  leisure  and  business  men  are  often  obliged  to  yaw 
their  own  wood  and  tend  their  own  teams,  for  want  of  laborers. 
If  a  man  is  wanted  ho  must  be  engaged  for  a  week  beforehand. 
Everybody  is  busy,  everybody  goes  it  with  a  rush— even  the  hand- 
carts and  wheelbarrows  are  labelled  "  Industry."  A  magnificent 
work  is  in  progress  which  will  employ  hundreds  of  men  fo^r  a  year 
to  come. 

The  City  Council  has  ordered  a  lev<5e  to  be  constructed  for  a 
mile  in  front  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  the  grading  down  of 
the  river  bluffs  and  streets  approaching  to  the  water—  a  splendid 
work  most  truly. 

If  you  should  not  find  work  immediately,  make  a  good  claim 
at  once,  strike  out  for  yourself  a  while,  put  up  your  shanty, 
and  if  you  can  not  hire  a  few  acres  broke  in  time  for  a  crop 
in  the  spring,  dig  vp  an  acre,  and  plant  potatoes,  corn,  and 
vegetables,  enough  to  last  you  through  the  next  winter.    Work 
afterward,  at  anything  you  may  find  for  your  hand  to  do,  and 
pay  for  the  breaking  up  next  fall  (if  you  can  not  do  it  your- 
self) of  at  .east  ten  r...    s,  fence  it,  and  as  much  more  as  you 
can  next  winter ;  and  oy  this  time,  1855,  you  will  have  a  home- 
stead of  your  own-a  good  crop  of  oats,  corn,  and  potatoes,  in 
the  ground-and,  if  you  are  a  lucky  fellow,  a  wife  and  chil- 
c  reu  in  the  shanty,  yourself  as  independent  as  a  lord,  and  a  ' 
thousand  times  more  happy. 

If  you  ai-e  a  bachelor,  get  married  as  soon  as  you  have 
enough  in  the  house  for  two  to  eat.  The  territory  .....  be 
peopled,  and  even  the  very  rnpid  immigration  from  outside 
does  not  do  it  fast  enough.  Don't  waste'time,  eith",  by"  o- 
ing  east  for  a  wife.  You  want  a  whole-souled,  strong,  whole- 
some Minnesota  woman ;  somebody  to  make  butter  and  cheese 
to  spin  and  weave  your  homespun  coats  and  breeches.     Look 

and  take  the  premium  at  your  annual  county  agricultural  ex 
hibition,  raise  also  a  set  of  rollicking  boys  and  girls  w  lie  h   if 
«ent  on  to  the  next  World's  Pair,  to  be  held' ;n  m'till 


(50 


MINNESOTA    AN!)    I'I"S    RESOURCK?. 


tnko  tilt"!  highest  premium  there  as  perfect  specimons  of  hu- 
Tiuuiity. 

The  tourist  in  search  of  j)lea8ure,  exciting  scenes,  good  health, 
or  information  of  this  region,  and  the  gentleman  of  elegant  easa 
and  leisure,  will  now  find  ample  accommodations  of  the  very 
best  character,  go  where  he  nay.  For  beauty  and  siiblimity 
of  scenery,  fine  climate,  bracing  and  invigorating,  good  water 
(and  liquors,  too,  if  wanted),  tine  fishing  and  hunting,  from  a 
prairie-hen  to  a  buffalo  bull,  I  just  set  up  Minnesota  c gainst 
the  rest  of  (he  world  and  all  the  other  j'lunets,  and  coolly  ofier 
to  back  her  Avith  any  odds  you  may  choose  to  offer.  To  tlie 
tourist  who  desires  to  see  the  territory,  and  who  is  not  willing 
to  sit  down  here  and  think  St.  Paul  is  the  whole  of  it,  as  many 
do,  wo  will  point  out  the  route  of  an  excursion  which  can  not 
fail  to  please,  and  add  vastly  to  his  stock  of  knowledge,  and 
which  no  one — having  the  time  and  means  —  should  fail  to 
take. 

Arriving  here  by  steamboat,  take  the  stage  for  St.  Anthony, 
and  then  the  steamboat  for  Sauk  rapids.  Along  the  river  for 
one  hundred  miles  is  to  be  found  the  most  enchanting  scenery 
that  you  have  ever  seen,  and  at  Sauk  rapids  is  the  finest  wa- 
ter-power in  the  territory,  excepting  at  St.  Anthony.  By 
stage  you  can  then  go  north  to  Crow  Wing,  Fort  Ripley,  and 
the  Chippewa  and  Winnebagocs  old  agency,  at  Gull  Lake, 
and  on  Long-Prairie  river.  Returning  to  St.  Anthony,  strike 
west  to  Lake  Minnetonka,  where  you  will  find  the  prettiest 
country  lying  wild  that  the  world  can  boast  of — got  up  Avith 
the  greatest  care  and  effort  by  old  Dnino  Nature,  ten  thousand 
years  or  more  ago,  and  which  she  has  been  improving  ever 
since.  Go  there,  stranger,  but  don't  go  into  ecstasies  nor  "  go 
off"  until  you  can  make  your  mark.  Select  the  very  best 
claim  you  can  find,  and  settle  doAvn;  for  be  assured  that  this 
luxurious  spot  promises  untold  wealth  to  you  in  future. 

Now  drive  to  Fort  Snelling,  and  return  to  St.  Paul.  Look 
at  all  this  country,  at  the  claims,  the  houses,  farms,  &c.,  of  the 
pioneers  located  there ;  at  the  Little  falls  or  Minne-ha-ha,  the 
fort,  and  take  a  peep  from,  the  summit  of  Pilot  Knob,  rJjovo 
Mendota,  and  if  you  do  not  return  enthusiastic  in  your  praise, 


C  i 


[nons  of  liu- 


good  health, 
elegant  easa 

of  the  very 
(l  siihlimity 

good  water 
iting,  from  a 
sot  a  ('gainst 

coolly  ofi'er 
^er.     To  the 

not  willir.g 
'  it,  as  many 
lich  can  not 
W'ledge,  and 
lould  fail  to 

)t.  Anthony, 
;he  river  ^or 
ing  scenery 
e  finest  wa- 
hony.  By 
B-lpley,  and 
Gull  Lake, 
;bony,  strike 
lie  prettiest 
got  up  Avith 
;n  thousand 
roving  ever 
ies  nor  "  go 
J  very  best 
;d  that  tliis 
ure. 

'aul.  Look 
,  &c.,  of  the 
;-lia-ha,  the 
.nolj,  above 
rour  praise, 


4 


'4k 


r^ 


■■"fc 


MINNKIIAIIA   FALLS. 


AOR[(;ULTUKAL    AI»V ANTAOES,    KTO. 


61 


yon  nrc  n  stoic,  a  stoiio,  ami  as  cold  aiul  iuliospitable  as  an  ice- 
berg?. It  would  be  easier  to  kindle  fire  from  snow  tl»an  to 
raiKC  a  single  ray  of  warmth  witliin  i/rmr  lieart. 

Next  take  the  stage  for  Stillwater,  stopping  to  fish  a  day  or 
two  at  the  celebrated  "  Half-Way  House"  of  John  Morgan. 
Then  go  to  tlie  St.  Croix  falls,  where  you  will  see  the  finest 
little  bit  of  scenery  ou  this  continent;  visit  Cottage-Grove 
prairie.  Point  Douglas,  lled-Wing,  Vermillion,  and  Cannon 
rivers,  Hastings,  &c.,  and  so  return. 

Lastly,  take  one  of  the  half-dozen  steamboats  now  running 
up  the  Minnesota  river,  an(  you  will  then  have  made,  the 
gr.-^'id  toar,  unless  you  wish  to  take  a  trip  to  Pembina  and 
Selkirk's  settlement,  on  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  in  latitude 
forty-nine  and  fifty  degrc  s,  or  take  a  buffalo-hunt  away  out 
toward  the  ]\Iissouri  plains. 

You  can  go  by  steamboat  as  high  up  the  Minnesota  as  the 
new  government  fort  and  Indian  agency,  above  Red-Wood 
river;  passing  by  a  host  of  embryotic  towns,  already  located, 
surveyed,  and  half  sold  off,  and  "  that  too  in  this  portion  of 
embryotic  Minnesota."  Of  these,  Shakopee,  Le  Sueur,  Trav- 
eise  des  Sioux,  Kasota,  and  Mankato  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Blue-Earth,  are  the  most  prominent  at  present,  and  are  certainly 
all  good  enough  points.     The  same  is  true  of  St.  Peter's. 

I  consider  the  mouth  of  the  Blue-Earth  as  the  main  point 
on  the  Srinnesota  river,  situated  at  its  extreme  southern  bend, 
and  on  a  line  west  from  the  foot  of  Lake  Pepin.  A  territorial 
road  of  one  hundred  and  twelve  miles  has  been  laid  out  from 
Lake  Pepin  to  ]\Iankato,  and  it  is  also  at  the  head  of  good 
steamboat  navigation,  eveii  at  high  water,  as  the  river  above 
is  as  crooked  as  the  twistings  of  a  politician  trying  to  cany 
water  on  both  shoulders.  Some  of  this  stamp  among  us  should 
go  up  above  Blue-Earth,  and  see  their  past  and  present  tortu- 
ous course  mapped  out.  It  is  here  that  the  railroad  from  Iowa, 
following  lip  the  Des  Moines,  and  thence  down  the  valley  of 
the  Blue-Earth,  will  eventually  cross  the  Minnesota,  to  con- 
nect in  the  valley  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North  with  the  great 
Atlantic  and  Pacifi3  railroad,  the  route  for  which  is  already  aurvejeJ 
from  St.  Paul  to  T^'uget  Sound. 


63 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   I4ES0UJICKS. 


Return  now  to  St.  Paul,  and  you  can  justly  claim  to  have 
seen  a  little  of  Minnesota,  and  to  have  been  all  along  the  civ- 
ilized lines  of  travel  and  settlement,  Avhich,  like  the  spokes  of 
a  wheel,  diverge  from  the  central  point,  and  shed  as  so  many 
sunbeams,  rays  of  light,  and  thought,  and  intelligence,  through- 
out  the  pagan  land  of  yesterday.  You  will  have  seen  the 
spot  where,  ere  long,  the  combined  forces  of  energy,  enterprise, 
and  wealth,  will  have  erected  one  of  the  noblest  fabrics  yet. 
reared  by  the  hard-toiling,  strong-listed,  and  sinewy  sons  of 
this  republic. 


laim  to  have 
iloiig  the  civ- 
;he  spokes  of 
1  as  so  many 
ncc,  through- 
ive  seen  the 
y,  enterprise, 
it  fabrics  yet 
ewy  sons  of 


WEATHEK,    SOIL,    AND   CLIMATE. 


63 


CHAPTER  IV. 

REVIEW    OF     THE     WEATHER     OP      MINNESOTA  — ADAPTATION     OF 
THE    SOIL    AND    CLIMATE. 

I  REGRET  that  my  observations  have  not  extended  regularly 
through  a  space  of  time  which  would  enable  me  to  give  full 
and  reliable  results  of  the  climatic  changes  of  this  latitude. 
Owmg  to  frequent  changes  of  residence,  and  the  demands  of 
business,  I  have  not  as  yet  been  able  to  give  that  strict  atten- 
tion  to  the  meteorology  of  our  territory  which  is  due  to  a  sub- 
ject so  replete  with  interest  and  importance;  and  I  now  pre- 
sent this  imperfect  sketch  in  the  hope  that  some  one  having 
the  inclination  for  the  pursuit,  and  at  the  same  time  a  more 
elegant  leisure  than  I  have  had,  will  yet  do  what  I  have  but 
partially  done  — or  rather  failed  to  do. 

For  the  time  that  my  observations  were  carried  on,  viz., 
from  December,  1850,  until  July,  1851,  inclusive,  I  have  an 
accurately  kept  register,  together  with  a  series  of  monthly 
tables,  in  which  all  the  .etails  of  the  weather  for  that  period 
are  minutely  given.  For  the  remainder  of  the  year  1851,  the 
monthly  tables  intended  to  accompany  this  review  were  kept 
at  Fort  Snclling;  and  although  not  so  full  in  detail,  are  yet 
quite  valuable.*  The  mean  temperatures  of  the  months  of  Au- 
gust, September,  October,  November,  and  December,  1851, 
as  given  in  the  Meteorological  Register  for  that  year,  I  ob- 

1  n  "at  ""1^';  ^'  "^'''''''  ^^'^^'  ""^  ^^^'^  ^'P^^:^'  "^  I'-^titude  46° 
10  JN.  bo  that  the  yearly  mean  is  made  up  from  observations 
taken  at  St.  Paul,  during  the  months  of  January,  February, 
March,  and  April;  at  Sauk  rapids,  during  Ma.,  June,  aad 
July ;  and  at  Fort  Ripley,  during  the  remainder  of  the  year. 
Ihe  distance  between  Fort  Snelling  and  Fort  Ripley  is  a  little 
over  1°  north.  "^ 

These  results  show  a  uniformity  in  the  weather  of  Minne- 
*  See  Annals  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  for  1854. 


'64 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   RESOUECES. 


li    :S 


Bota  tliat   is    seldom    met  with    elsewhere.     When    sudden 
changes  do  occur,  it  is  to  be  remarked  that  they  are  always 
low  extremes— that  is  from  below  the  freezing  point  to  far 
below  zero,  and   consequently  do  not  injuriously  affect  the 
system  as  in  those  latitudes  where  a  continual  elemental  war 
is  constantly  kept  up,  and  the  alternate  rising  and  falling  of 
the  barometer  and  thermometer  are  as  sudden  and  irregular 
as  the  turnings  of  a  weathercock  amidst  a  tempest.    From  a  resi- 
dence of  over  six   years    in  Minnesota,  I  can  safely  say  that 
the  atmosphere  is  more  pure,  pleasant,  and  healthful,  than  that 
of  any  other  I  have  ever  breathed  on  the  continent  of  North 
or  South  America.     This  is  particularly  the  case  in  winter, 
the  most  buoyant,  elastic,  and  vigorous  portion  of  the  year! 
As  regards  the  healthfulness  of  this  region  at  all  times,  and 
more  especially  in  winter,  I  would  add,  in  the  language  of  a 
former  report  upon  the  weather,  that  "  with  proper  care  and  no 
unnecessary  exposure,  it  may  be  safely  said  that  coughs,  colds, 
and  that  scourge  of  the  Eastern  states,  consumption,  would  be 
almost  entirely  unknown.     When  either  is  unfortunately  con- 
tracted, no  climate  is  better  adapted  for  its  speedy  eradica- 
tion.    It  is  all  a  mistake  to  send  a  consumptive  patient  to  the 
south  — a  mistake  just  becoming  apparent  to 'the  faculty. 
Those  whose  lungs  are  diseased  and  weak,  should  come  to  the 
north.     I  have  tried  both  extremes,  and  can  speak  feelingly, 
the  best  of  all  evidences,  and  I  confidently  assert  that  they 
will  stand  far  more  chances  of  recovery  in  this  particular  lati- 
tude than  anywhere  in  the  enervating  south,  even  if  it  be  the 
most  salubrioas  of  the  West  Indies." 

It  is  true  that  a  fever,  which  in  some  instances  has  proved 
fatal  in  its  effects,  has  raged  within  our  midst  during  the  past 
fall  and  winter ;  but  it  has,  I  believe,  been  altogether  local, 
or  peculiar  to  St.  Anthony  and  St.  Paul,  and  is  owing  to 
causes  which  it  is  not  probable  will  soon  occur  again.  The 
principal  of  these  is  believed  to  have  been  the  unprecedented 
drought  of  the  preceding  summer,  by  which  the  river  bottoms, 
the  ponds,  and  the  marshes,  became  exposed,  and  threw  into 
our  usually  pure  air  a  poisonous  malaria. 

The  drouHit  of  ].8r>2  was  a  striking  feature  in  the  meteor- 


WEATHER,   SOIL,    ANJ)   CLIMATE. 


66 


3n  sudden 
are  always 
oint  to  far 

affect  the 
nental  war 

falling  of 
I  irregular 
rom  a  resi- 
y  say  that 
,  than  that 
t  of  North 
in  winter, 

the  year, 
times,  and 
uage  of  a 
ire  and  no 
?hs,  colds, 

would  he 
ately  con- 
?■  eradica- 
ent  to  the 
>  faculty, 
me  to  the 
fcel'mghj, 
that  they 
nilar  lati- 
'  it  be  the 

IS  proved 
'  the  past 
ler  local, 
3wing  to 
in.  The 
cedented 
bottoms, 
irew  into 

!  meteor- 


ology of  this  territory.  The  summers  are  usually  veij-  moist, 
large  quantities  of  rain  fall,  and  heavy  thunder-storms  are 
very  common.  In  this  instance,  with  the  exception  of  a 
storm  of  wind  and  rain  on  the  fourth  day  of  July,  no  rain  fell 
from  the  time  of  the  great  cataract  of  water,  which  deluged  us 
in  May,  until  the  following  September,  and  but  very  little  fell 
until  October.  The  aii%  generally  so  full  of  electricity  at  all 
seasons,  seemed  then  utterly  void  of  it,  and,  for  five  months, 
no  sound  of  thunder  broke  upon  its  stillness.  Droughts  are 
of  frequent  occurrence  in  various  other  parts  of  the  country, 
and  depend  upon  atmospheric  causes  not  yet  fully  understood. 
As  it  has  been  satisfactorily  ascertained  that  an  equal  amount 
of  moisture  falls  in  every  climate,  in  a  given  space  of  time,  say 
a  year;  so  with  ours  in  the  case  of  which  I  speak.  More  than 
sufficient  snow  has  already  fallen,  during  the  past  winter,  to 
make  amends  for  the  lack  of  moisture  of  the  preceding  sum- 
mer, and  as  its  drought  was  unprecedented  in  our  memories, 
so  is  the  quantity  and  depth  of  the  frozen  vapor  which  now 
covers  the  earth  around  us.*  The  fall  of  snow  throughout  all 
the  country  to  the  north  and  west,  and  toward  Lake  Superior, 
has  been  at  least  five  feet.  The  roads  were,  for  a  portion  of 
the  time  during  the  early  part  of  the  winter,  almost  impassable, 
and  even  rendered  travelling  upon  snowshoes  difficult.  The 
amount  of  snow  that  generally  falls  is  much  less  than  would 
be  supposed  in  so  high  a  latitude,  being  really  much  less  than 
falls  in  many  places  further  south.  Two  feet  is  a  large  quan- 
tity, and  more  than  the  average,  there  having  been  a  winter 
or  two  of  late  years,  when  not  enough  has  fallen  for  common 
sledding  purposes,  the  ground  scarcely  being  covered,  though 
these  are  remarkable  exceptions.  A  portion,  however,  always 
remains  till  spring,  and  the  ground  is  generally  covered  from 
November  till  March. 

This  is  extremely  favorable  to  the  preservation  of  wintt',r 
wheat,  which  has  not  been  tried  to  much  extent;  .«till  I  ^aXo. 
satisfied  it  will  succeed,  and  the  crop  become  a  more  certain 

*  Tlie  amount  of  snow  in  the  winter  of  1842-'i3,  was  almost  equal  to 
that  of  the  past  season.  A  large  quantity  also  foil  in  the  spring  of  1843.— 
Nolc  by  an  Old  Settler. 


66 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   EES0UECE8. 


n 


-III 


one  tl,,™  ,„  tl,e  states,  from  tl,e  foct  that  the  snow,viIl  prevent 
us  freezing  out,  „„,1  that  it  will  also  be  loss  subject  to  attacks 
of  rast,  the  Hy.  and  all  the  disease,  incidental  to  it  elsewhere 
I  am  very  certain  that  Minnesota  will  in  time  become  one  of 
he  very  best  wheat-grow:.g  states  in  the  whole  Union,  and 
.at  she  w,ll  take  the  place  of  Illinois  and  other  states  where 
It  can  no  longer  be  depended  upon  with  any  certainty.    When 
sown  at  an  eariy  period,  say  September,  it  has  already  suc- 
ceeded well,  as  far  norU,  as  La  Belle  Prairie,  in  latitude  forty- 
M    Plulander  Preseotfs  letter  on  the  agricultural  resources  of 
Minnesota,  published  in  the  Patent  Office  Reports  for  1849--50 
S-pring  wheat  also  produces  well,  even  at  Eed  Lake  and  Sel- 
kirk sett  ement.  in  latitude  fortyeight  and  fifty  degr,  es  as 
borintifully  as  in  other  places  farther  south.  ^ 

Ihe  most  remarkable  characteristic  of  the  winter  of  Minne- 
sota,  IS  Its  great  dryness-there  being  an  almost  total  absence 
o   ram  or  moisture.     Not  more  than  one  heavy  rain-storm  has 
oceui.ed  within  its  limits  during  the  last  ten  years.    A  sligh 
sprinkling  of  ran,  however,  <?„«  sometimes  happen.    A  heavy 
thaw  also  takes  place  in  January,  and  sometimes  lasts  a  velk 
or  two,  aecornpanied  by  mild  southerly  winds.     Sucl    a  Zt 
occurrod  in  February,  1853.     The  weather  is  generall^  very 
clear  and  bracing,  mostly  calm,  though  uproarious  winds  oZ 
cur  occasionally.     The  prevailing  winds  are  from  the  wcs  - 
northwest  and  north,  and  always  bring  clear  weather;  They 
prevail  about  two  thirds  of  the  winter.    East,  north    3 
southeast  winds  from  the  great  lakes  bring  sno;.s"orm: -and 
are  .ways  damp,  chilling,  and  unpleasant.     The  me  Lm^ 
hough  almost  always  below  the  freezing  point,  is  sehlom  f; 
be  ow  zero ,  „„  three  or  four  occasions  it  sinks  to  from  twenty 
to  thirty-five  degrees  below,  though  this  weather  never  contiS^ 
nes  more  than  three  or  four  days.    The  coldest  day  of  the  past 
jmter  was  February  8,  when  the  mercury  fell  to^wenty.five 

I  dT  coir  Tu  ^,'  f "^  '"""'^  ""'"^  ■»  ''"*  >■«'«  -in™ 

tTe  c  l™  f    '"  n    """= ' '"''  "'™  "">-  ""''  »«'  accustomed  tc 
tiie  Climate  wonlfl  imqo-jrio    T;rp„„  i__,__   ,         ^ 

,       ,-  —-.loll!.,    -ei  J  nciix  y /war  f/oifs  fiGQixGntlv 

occur,  when  the  whole  air  seems  filled  with  little  icy  crysS 


M 


WEATHER,    SOIL,    AND    CLIMATE. 


kill  prevent 
;  to  attacks 
elsewhere, 
nme  one  of 
Jnion,  and 
ates  where 
ty.    When 
ready  suc- 
tude  forty- 
:,  can  read 
isources  of 
■  1849-'50. 
B  and  Sel- 
legr.  es,  as 

of  Minne- 
il  absence 
storm  has 
A  slight 
A  heavy 
ts  a  week 
li  a  thaw 
ally  very 
tvinds  oc- 
the  west- 
er ;  they 
'I'th,    and 
•rms,  and 
mercury, 
ildom  far 
Q  twenty 
r  contin- 
the  past 
snty-five 
tie  wind 
:onied  tc 
jquently 
crystals, 


67 


whicli  sparkle  in  tlie  morning  sunlight  like  millions  of  precious 
gems.  The  surromu.mg  forests  bci  g  encased  in  glittering 
frost  and  ice,  present  a  most  magnificent  appearance. 

The  Mississippi  generally  closes  early  in  December,  and 
opens  the  latter  part  of  March.  The  winter  continues  for 
about  four  months  ;  though  we  often  have  cold,  rough  weather 
for  an  additional  month  or  two.  In  summing  up  its  merits,  I 
would  add  that,  owing  to  its  even  temperature,  and  hence  al- 
lowing out  of  door  exercises  and  employments  for  a  greater 
number  of  days  than  that  of  most  other  countries,  it  is  highly 
conducive  to  health,  longevity,  and  social  intercourse  and  ad- 
vancement. 

The  spring  is  usually  boisterous  and  cold.  There  is  then 
more  wind  and  dampness  than  in  the  winter.  That  there  are 
exception'  to  this  however,  the  spring  of  last  year,  and  the 
montli  of  March,  1851,  may  be  evidenced.  The  prevailing 
winds  arc  similar  to  those  of  winter,  viz.,  from  west-north- 
^yest  to  north.  The  season  continues  cold  and  backward  un- 
til earlv  in  May,  when  a  sudden  change  takes  place,  and  all 
nature  is  soon  robed  in  the  cheerful  liveries  of  this  gay  por- 
tion of  the  year.  The  frost  usually  leaves  the  ground  in  April. 
The  latter  part  of  May  and  early  in  June  is  the  usual  seed- 
ing-lime. 

The  summer  is  very  cool  and  pleasant,  with  a  fine  breeze  at 
all  times,  blowing  mostly  from  the  west,  southwest,  and  south. 
This  mitigates  and  makes  endurable  the  extreme  heat  of  the 
sun,  which,  beaming  through  the  clear  and  brilliant  atmo- 
sphei-e,  rivals  that  of  the  tropics  in  intensity.  This  great 
heat  is  of  but  short  duration,  rarely  continuing  longer  than  a 
week  at  most.  The  nights  are  always  cool  and  bracing,  and 
the  sleep  obtained  is  sound,  refreshing,  and  sweet.  Thunder- 
storms are  very  frequent,  usually  occurring  in  the  afternoon 
and  evening,  and  sometimes  continuing  all  the  night.  Those 
at  night  are  always  much  the  heaviest,  and  of  the  longest  du- 
ration. A  remarkable  thunder-storm  occurred  at  Sauk  rapids 
on  the  18th  and  13th  of  July,  1851,  which  continued  uninter- 
ruptedly for  some  thirty  hours ;  the  rain  falling  at  intervals 
in  torrents.     It  was  accompanied  by  a  hurricane  of  wind  from 


68 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    KKSOUKCKS. 


the  southeast,  which  prostrated  forest-trees,  tearing  them  up  by 
the  roots  like  twigs,  and  snaj)ping  otliers  off  like  pipe-stems. 
It  created  considerable  havoc  along  the  western  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  above  Crow  river,  and  extended  some  distance  in 
a  northwest  direction.  Its  breadth  I  never  ascertained. 
Heavy  hail-storms  sometimes  occur.  The  most  remarkable 
one  which  I  have  noticed  is  thus  described  in  a  "letter  to 
the  Minnesota  Pimiecr,  dated  Benton  city  (Sauk  rapids*), 
June  18,  1851  :— 

"  The  most  terrific  rain  and  hail  storm  that  I  ever  remember, 
occurred  here  last  night,  from  ten  P.  M.,  until  after  midnight! 
It  came  up  suddenly  from  the  west,  and  for  several  hours  the 
heavens  were  a  perfect  glare  of  light,  most  painful  to  the  eye 
to  witness ;  while  the  thunder  was  truly  deafening  at  first,  and 
most  terrific.     The  rain  fell  in  perfect  sheets  of  water,  and  the 
hail  descended  like  a  shower  of  bullets,  crushing  through  the 
windows  and  flying  across  the  room  with  violence ;  while  the 
house  creaked  and  shook  and  rocked  like  a  ship  at  sea,  and  I 
verily  expected  it  to  come  tumbling  about  my  ears  each  mo- 
ment.    The  hailstones,  unlike  ordinary  ones,  w^ere  rough  and 
jagged,  as  though  a  storm  of  the  splinters  a)id  shivers  of  an 
iceberg  had  been  hurled  over  this  embryo  city;  Avhich,  OAving 
to  the  me  ;ger  number  of  houses,  suffered  but  little.     Ere  long 
the  rattle  and  clatter  of  their  falling,  drowned   the  thunder 
completely.     By  the  glare  of  t\  e  lightning,  I  could   see  the 
rain-drops   and  hailstones  driven  by  the  gale,  skim  along  the 
ground,  and  striking,  bound  several  feet  into  the  air,  in  a  dense 
sheet  of  mingled  ice  and  water,  like  waves  of  hail  rising  and 
rolling  on  before  the  storm.     I  could  hear  the  clash  and  roar  of 
the  successive  waves  as  they  struck  the  house  or  a  fence  in 
their  course,  like  regular  discharges  of  firearms.     The  largest 
stones  were  about  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  fell  upon  the  roof 
like  grape-shot.     The  surrounding  trees  are  well  stripped  of 
limbs  and  leaves,  which  w^ere  cut   and  split  in  shreds,  and 
dashed  off   in    large  quantities.     Altogether,  it  was  a  well- 
grown  hail-storra  for  a  new  country,  and  as  a  meteorological 

*  Sauk  rapids  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi,  seventy-six  miles  northwest 
of  St.  Paul. 


WEATHER,    SOIL,    AND   CLIMATE. 


69 


phenomenon,  I  have  thought  a  hasty  description  worthy  of 
record." 

The  summer  season  is  short — warm  weather  seldom  sets  in 
before  July,  although  there  are  at  times  exceptions.     Very 
hot  weather  occurred  last  year  in  May.     What  is  lost  in  this 
respect  is  more  than  fully  made  up  in  autumn,  which  is  here 
the  most  lovely  portion  of  the  year.     Frosts  seldom  occur  be- 
fore October,  while  a  beautiful  Indian  summer  lasts  till  the 
middle  of  November,  when  winter  soon  after  sets  in  suddenly. 
As  a  general  thing,  there  are  no  gentle  gradations  of  heat  and 
cold  between  the  change  from  spring  to  summer,  and  from  fall 
to  winter.     That  season  usually  lingers  in  the  lap  of  spring, 
until  he  can  no  longer  hold  his  sway,  when  he  gently  yields 
his  long  supremacy,  and  retreats  to  northern  climes,  without 
evincing  any  disposition  to  protract  his  stay.     No  crops  are 
nipped,  nor  buds  or  blossoms  perish  from  a  renewal  of  his  icy 
breath,  in  the  shape  of  chilling,  killing  frosts.     He  melts  aAvay 
before  the  soft  murmurings  of  the  southern  gales,  and  leaves 
no  trace  behind.     He  yields  at  once,  and  with  a  grace  which 
does  credit  to  the  rude,  rough,  storm-king — and  immediately 
a  marked  change  takes  place.     No  "  elemental  war"  from  heat 
to  cold,  from  wet  to  dry  —  each  striving  for  the  mastery  during 
an  intervening  month  or  two,  as  in  the  states,  occur.     On  the 
contrary,  the  soft  breath  of  early  summer  comes  breathing 
along  tlie  southern  vales,  like  the  Avellings  up  from  a  full  and 
gushing  heart— throbbing  forth  its  warm  pulsations,  and  giving 
life  and  vigor  to  every  living  thing  beneath  its  touch.     The 
xuiclouded  sun  pours  forth  his  genial  beams,  revivifying  the 
face  of  nature,  and  causing  it  to  bloom  and  blossom.     But 
anon,  each  day  almost,  a  change  comes  over  the  spirit  of  his 
dream,  and  the  storm-clouds  gather  in  the  Avestern  sky  ;  then 
heaven's  artillery  is  heard  pealing  forth  its  echoes  from  sky  to 
earth,  from  plain  to  plain,  and  the  refreshing  rain  descends  in 
copious,  grateful  showers. 

The  bountiful  earth,  thus  nourished  and  replenished,  pro- 
duces plenteously ;  and  soon  the  ripened  grain  is  waving  in 
the  breeze,  the  golden  corn  is  glistening  in  the  morning  sun, 
the  ripe  and  luscious  melons  dot  the  rich,  smooth  soil.     'Tis 


TO 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    RKSOirUCES. 


true  there  are  no  fruit-trees  bending  beneath  the  rosy  peach, 
the  pear,  the  phim,  the  clierry,  and  the  apple,  to  gladden  the 
c}\;s  of  the  pomologist  and  cause  the  mouth  to  water  in  anti- 
cip-tion  of  the  luxurious  feast.     Yet  this  is  altogether  owing 
to  the  newness  of  the  country,  and  the  want  of  time,  as  yet, 
to  plant  and  produce  those  fruits ;  not,  forsooth,  that  we  are 
too  far  north,  or  that  it  is  too  cold  to  ripen  them  in  perfection ; 
nor  that  the  inclemency  of  our  winters,  will  destroy  them  by 
freezing      I'horo  can  be  no  more  certain  criterion  of  the  cli- 
mate of  any  country  than  its  vegetable  production,  and  it  may 
b(^  stated  here  generally,  that  while  all  the  grains  and  vege- 
tnble  productions  of  the  Middle  and  Western  States,  have  been 
produced  within  the  bounds  of  Minnesota,  with   almost  every 
variety  of  wild  tree,  shrub,  flower,  and  herb  — and  while  all  the 
tame  grasses  and  most  of  the  fruits  can  he  produced  within  her 
limits,  with  the  exception  of  the  peach  (which  has  failed  at 
Galena  and  Dubu(iuo),  every  objection  to  its  being  too  far 
north  is  futile  and  ridiculous.     Mr.  Oakes,  the  father  of  0.  H. 
Oakes,  Esq.,  of  St.  Paul,  has  raist^d,  successfully,  all  the  above 
fruits,  and  others  (except  the  peach),  at  Lapointe,  on  Lake 
Superior,  in  latitude  a  little  south  of  forty-seven  degrees  ;  which 
is  nearly  two  degrees  northward  of  St.  Paul.     They  can'also  be 
cultivated  here ;  the  soil  being  adapted  to  their  culture,  as  also 
to  that  of  melons,  of  corn,  and  sweet  potatoes.     All  men  should 
understand  at  this  late  day,  that  soils  and  climate  are  adapted 
to  ench  other;  and  that  parallels  of  latitude  are  a  very  unsafe 
rule  to  go  by  in  judging  altogether  of  the  climate  of  a  country ; 
as  it  is  always  greatly  modified  by  local  causes.     The  geogra- 
phy of  a  country  has  much  to  do  with  its  climate ;  its  topog- 
raphy,  its  elevation,  its  lakes,  its  rivers,  hills,  and  valleys,  its 
soil,  forests,  prevailing  winds,  moisture  and  dryness,  more  or 
less  affect  its  temperature. 

The  warm,  loose,  sandy  soil  of  Minnesota,  with  the  long, 
late  autumnal  season,  will  mature  the  cereal  grains  and  fruits! 
almost  as  perfectly  as  that  of  far  more  southern  climates.  But 
•'  the  world  is  indeed  a  slow  coach  after  all,"  and  progresses 
in  the  acquisition  of  knowledge  at  a  snail's  pate,  at  best. 
Truth  is  always  outstripped  by  error,  and  falsehood  spreads 


WEATIlKIl,    SOU-,    AND   CLIMATE. 


n 


rosy  peach, 
ladden  the 
Iter  in  anti- 
ither  owing 
mc,  as  yet, 
hat  we  are 
perfection ; 
y  them  by 

of  tlie  cli- 
and  it  may 

and  vege- 

have  been 
no8t  every 
hilo  all  the 
within  her 
5  failed  at 
Jg  too  far 
!r  of  0.  H. 
the  above 

on  Lake 
es ;  which 
an  also  be 
ire,  as  also 
len  should 
e  adapted 
sry  unsafe 
-  country ; 
le  gcogra- 
its  topog- 
alleys,  its 
,  more  or 

the  long, 
nd  fruits, 
tes.  But 
irogresses 
at  best. 
I  spreads 


itself  with  the  fleetncss  of  the  wind.  The  Avorld  delights  to 
bo  humbugged,  and  all  seem  to  act  upon  the  principle  that 
they  must  either  humbug  somebody,  or  be  humbugged  them- 
selves. ]Men  delight  in  being  deceived ;  nay,  in  deceiving 
themselves  against  the  dictates  of  reason,  fac.ts,  and  common- 
sense.  Hence  we  may  siill  expect  to  hear  tiio  oft-repeated 
cry  of  "  You  can't  raise  acaion  crap  in  Minnesota  —  you  can't 
live  away  up  there,"  &c.,  &c.  AVc  ex])ect  to  find  men  for 
twenty  years  to  come,  who  will  persist  in  believing  that  the 
flame  of  a  blazing  fire  here  becomes  congealed  into  spears  of 
solid,  icy  llame,  and  that  we  are  obliged  to  wr;tp  blankets 
around  our  fires  to  keep  them  warm.  Anything  else  that  can 
be  said,  though  equally  ridiculous,  will,  of  course,  find  multi- 
tudes of  believers. 

I  come  now  to  speak  of  the  autumn ;  that  quiet,  sedate  and 
melancholy  portion  of  the  year,  which  is  here,  as  I  have  before 
remarked,  its  most  lovely  period.     The  atmosphere  is  warm 
and  dry  throughout  the  main  portion  of  the  day,  and  cool  and 
bracing  in  the  evening  and  early  in  the  morning.     Little  rain 
falls  and   but  few  frosts  occur.     The  thick,  peculiar  haze  so 
common  to  the  Indian  Summer  everywhere,  here  is  as  droAvsy 
in  its  appearance  as  though  it  were  endeavoring  too  soon  to 
lull  the  day  to  sleep ;  as  it  rests  over  the  quiet  landscape,  the 
craggy  bluffs,  the  peaceful    lakes,  and  flowing  streams,  and 
sometimes  almost  hides  the  rich  and  variegated  face  of  nature, 
as  imperceptibly  it  wanes  and  falls  into  the  sere  and  yellow 
leaf.     The  prairies  then  become  ignited,  and  blaze  forth  their 
mimic  fires,  which  revel   in  their  wildness.     With  an  aurora 
borealis  lighting  up  the  northern  heavens,  and  the  vast  buH-iIo 
ranges  away  to  the  Missouri,  a  perfect  sea  of  roaring  flame  — 
the  night  if  not  turned  into  day,  certainly  eclipses  its  glorious 
beauties.     Auroras  are  very  common,  and  occur  quite  fi^equent- 
ly  in  winter.     The  following  is  a  descri])tion  of  the  most  bril- 
liant one  which  I  have  noticed.     It  occurred  on  the  night  of 
the  6th  of  September,  1851,  and  was  witnessed  from  the  valley 
of  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  in  latitude  forty-eiglit  degrees  :-- 
"  The  finest  exhibition  of  the  aurora  borealis  I  ever^'witness- 
ed,  occurred  to-night,  beginning  at  9  o'clock.   No  description  — 


72 


MINNESOTA     AND    ITH    ItlOyopUCKH. 


11 


not  even  the  most  vivi.l  ami  wil.l  i..inj,n,mtio„-cnn  ,lo  it  jus- 
tice. ^  It  consisted  oflu-i^l.t  innssos  of  light,  in  some  directions 
'"""""at.ng  large   portions  of  the   l.eaven,s-at  others,  and 
Loarlyover  the  whole  surface  of  the  sky,  bright  rays  shot 
upwards,  hog.nn.ng  not  from  the  horizon,  hut  at  an  elevation 
of  about  45-  and  extending  far  south  of  the  zenith.     The  rays 
in  fact,  appeared  to  shoot  upward  all  around  the  upper  portion 
of  the  heavens,  uniting  at  the  zenith,  and  producing  one  of 
the  finest  effects   that  was  ever  produced   by  Nature  in  her 
wildest  freak  or  grandest  effort.     To  the  north  and  south  of  the 
zenith,  the  rays  assumed  man>  variegated  tint.,  among  which 
the  most  beautiful  :,ink  and  green  and  various  indescribable 
shades  were  the   most   rroruiuent.      Tliese  were  constantly 
changing  color  and  the  rays  their  forms;  sometimes  like  mov- 
lug  cohunns   of  light.  .;hich  the  Indians  poetically  call  'the 
,  .dance  of  the  dead.'  the  bright  white  and  colored  rays  or  col- 
umns moving  and  darting  past  each  other  in  an  erect  position, 
and  of  which  a  giant^^  -ruiscway,  if  brilliantly  illuminated  and 
put  in  rapid  motion,  would  afford  a  faint  idea 

"The  whole  mass  of  light  would  then  co'ver  the  northern 
heavens  and  encircle  around  the  zenith;  assuming  the  varied 
shapes  of  the  most  beautiful  drapery;  the  lower  edges  being 
tinged  with  a  bright  pink,  intermixed  with  green  above,  while 
at  the  apex  the  light  was  white  and  so  brilliant  as  almost  to 
dazzle.      Ihcn  it  would  again  shift  and  spread  rapidly  across 
the  hea^^ns  m  a  curved  belt  or  zone,  like  an  eagle's  plume,  as 
though  the  hand  of  the  God  of  the  heavens  and  the  earth  was 
about  to  appear  and  make  a  record  on  the  clear  moonlit  sky 
below,  and  then  anon  the  rays  and  clcuds  of  variegated  light 
would  gather  into  most  beautiful  and  fantastic  shapes,  pictu- 
resque  and  wild  in  the  extreme ;  and  so  quickly,  too.  that  the 
eye  could  scarcely  trace  their  motions;  occasionally  darting 
down  their  fringed  edges  which  waved  to  and  fro  like  canvass 
fluttenng  m  the  storm,  resembling  a  tempest  in  the  heavens, 
consisting  of  dancing  beams  of  brilliant  light  for  lightning ;  and 
the  falling  clouds,  rays  and  coruscations  of  pink  and  green 
with  every  conceivable  variety  of  colored  halo  for  the  aooom- 
panying  rain.     It  continued  equally  beautiful  till  long  past 


WFATUKli,    soil,,    A.N.i   rf.lMATK, 


7.3 


^11  do  it  jus- 
u«>  directions 
otlicTs,  and 
t   rnys   shot 
ui  (dcvjition 
The  my 8, 
)per  portion 
2ing  one  of 
txiYG  in  her 
Boutli  of  tlie 
tiong  whicli 
describnblc 
constantly 
s  like  mov- 
y  call  '  the 
•ays  or  col- 
ct  position, 
inated  and 

G  nortliern 
the  varied 
[Iges  being 
lOve,  while 

almost  to 
dly  across 

plume,  as 
earth  was 
)onlit  sky 
ited  light 
ics,  pictu- 
',  that  the 
y  darting 
e  canvass 

heavens, 
ling;  and 
id  green, 
10  accom- 
ong  past 


i 


midnight,  and  was  watched  with  adniinition  mid  jiwt'  by  nil 
our  T).^<y.  Auroras.  mirngcH,  and  other  meteorological  jdie- 
n'l.ena,  are  very  frequent  along  the  northern  boundary  of 
;rinn«  aota,  and  thence  north  to  Hudson's  Bay.  Charles  Cavl- 
'■•('..,  A  10  :  U.  S.  collector  of  customs  at  Pembina,  in  latitude 
fori-  >rue  degrees  north,  longitude  ninety-seven  degrees,  ten 
mir  f"8,  west,  has  furnished  me  with  the  following  particulars 
relating  to  the  meteorology  of  that  distant  region,  for  the 
winter  of  18.52-'3.     Mr.  Cavlleer  says  — 

'•  During  December,  there  were  but  five  entire  clenr  dnys, 
and  seven   generally  clear;    seven   cloudy,  and  four  mostly 
cloudy.     The  rest  variabhi.     There  Avas  but  one  day  (>(  perfect 
calm,  between   sunrise  and  sunset,  but  calm  generally    pre- 
vailed at  night;  and  such  nights,  too,  the  most  beautiful  ima- 
ginable.    The  prevailing  winds  were  from  the  northwest  and 
southeast ;  the  most  disagreeable  ones  are  from  the  northeast, 
east,  and  south,  and  are  damp  and  chilly.     The  northwesters 
are  cold  and  dry,  while  those  from  the  west  are  pleasant,  and 
bring  fine  warm  weather.     But  seven  or  eight  inches  of  snow 
fell,  with  a  sprinkle  or  two  of  rain,  and  one  sleet.     The  let  and 
28th  were  the  warmest  days,  the  mercury  stood  at  two  P.  M., 
thirty-four  degrees  above  zero,  and  at  sunrise  on  the  15th,  at 
thirty-eight  below.     There  Wx  re  seven  auroras,  and  are  classed 
from  the  tables  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.   But  two  of  them 
were  in  any  way  striking.     The  peculiarity  of  that  of  the  22d 
being  in  the  east  and  northeast,  brightest  due  east,  light  red  and 
fiery.     That  on  the  29th  was  a  very  pretty  affair,  commencing 
at  seven,  P.  M.   The  sky  was  clear,  with  a  silver  moon  and  bright 
star-light.     Its  first  appearance  was  in  the  northwest,  like  th;it 
of  the  moon  before  she  shows  her  face;   then  rapidly  assumed 
class  five,  and  extended  from  the  northwest  horiiion  to  the 
northeast ;  the  arch  a  bright  white,  and  segment  very  dark. 
But  the  fantastics  of  the  outsiders  constituted  the  main  beauty 
of  the  scene  —  sometimes  taking  the  form  of  the  rainbow,  and, 
numbering  from  one  to  three  above  the  arch,  showed  most 
grandly ;   then  rays,  beams,  and  patches  of  light,  would  flash 
up  to  the  northeast,  running  west  almost  as  quickly  as  the  eye. 
The  outsiders  made  their  exit  about  ten,  but  the  arch  contin- 


K'mA 

ft 

■irl 


•':mi-j 


74 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS    KKSOUECKS. 


ued  till  eleven.  December  12,  at  eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  I  ob- 
served a  large  and  splendid  meteor  slowly  traversing  the  north- 
east sky  from  east  to  west.  It  appeared  like  a  large  ball  or 
globe  of  fire  ;  a  very  bright,  white  light,  travelling  very  slowly, 
and  leaving  no  wake  or  light  in  its  track.  It  was  in  sight  a 
minute,  and  then  exploded  without  leaving  a  spark. 

"  The  first  fnirage  of  the  season  Avas  on  the  evening  of  the 
22d,  at  sunset,  and  showed  plainly  the  whole  course  of  the 
river  Maurais,  the  timber  on  its  banks  appearing  but  a  few 
miles  distant.  *  The  houses  on  the  north,  that  can  hardly  be 
seen  through  a  common  atmosphere,  were  raided  high  up,  show- 
ing them  plainly,  and  even  things  lying  about  on  the  ground. 
The  second  and  last  of  the  month  was  on  the  moniing  of  the 
29th,  from  sunrise  till  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  was  a  most  ^rmul 
natural  exhibition.     Not  only  the  whole  course  of  the  Maurais 
could  be  traced,  but  Oak  island,  forty-five  miles  distant,  was 
clear  to  the  view ;  and  Pembina  mountain,  thirty  miles  off,  was 
dmily  seen  in  the  distance.     These  were  the  first  mirages  I 
ever  witnessed,  and  it  is  certainly  a  very  novel  thing  to  bo 
thus  butted  in  the  face  by  things  you  know  to  be  so  many 
miles  distant.     In  January,  1853,  there  were  ten  am-oras  and 
eight  :nirages. 

"  The  viirage  of  the  24th  was  the  most  grand  of  all.     It 
commenced  before  sunrise  and  continued  till  ten,  A.  M.     Just 
at  srnrise,  the  view  was  truly  magnificent;   in  all  quarters  of 
the  compass,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  country  ap- 
peared to  rise  as  if  we  were  standing  in  the  centre  of  a  basin. 
J-ne  I  embina  mountain,  to  the  west,  loomed  up  grandly  •  dif- 
ferent distant  points  on  Red  river,  to  the  north  and  soutii.'were 
counted   and  named ;   while  the  rivers  Maurais,  Prune,  and 
Gratiara,  were  in  plain  sight;  and  I  really  believe  that,  with 
a  good  glass,  we    .ight  have  seen  Fori  Garry,  seventy  miles 
below  us  to  the  north,  so  very   clear  was  the  atmosphere. 
About  ten  minutes  after  sunrise  the  mountain  was  invisible  • 
at  eight  o'clock,  fog  to  the  north,  half  part  of  mounvain  again 
in  view,  and  at  ten,  A.  M.,  all  had  gradually  disappeared.    The 
Pky  at  sunrise  was  about  half-clouded ;   the  clouds  lyin-  nil 
round  the  horizon,  with  a  few  light  ones  overhead,  and  niain- 


,  ]\r.,  I  ob- 

the  north- 
ge  ball  or 
ly  slowly, 
in  sight  a 

iiig  of  the 
'se  of  the 
but  a  few 
hardly  bo 

up,  show- 
le  ground, 
ing  of  tlie 
lost  {;rand 
e  Maurais 
itant,  was 
ds  off,  was 
mirages  I 
ing  to  bo 

so  many 
roi-as  and 

f  all.  It 
M.  Just 
arters  of 
imtry  ap- 
a  basin, 
dly;  dif- 
Lith,  Avero 
uno,  and 
hat,  with 
ity  miles 
losphcrc. 
nvisiblo; 
Lin  again 
id.  The 
ying  all 
id  niaiu- 


WEATHEE,   SOIL,    AND  CLTMATR. 


75 


m 


M 


taincd  the  same  situation  throughout  the  phenomci.on.  The 
aurora,  the  mirages,  the  beautiful  frosting  of  the  trees  and 
vegetation,  with  the  change  of  the  atmosphere,  &c.,  Avill  more 
than  pay  for  wintering  in  the  climate ;  and,  if  for  nothing  else, 
I  shall  never  regret  having  spent  two  winters  on  the  forty-nintb 
degree  of  north  latitude,  amid  these  northern  wilds." 

I  knoAv  of  no  point  in  Uncle  Sam's  domains  better  situated 
for  a  meteorological  and  astronomical  observatory  than  this. 
It  being  on  his  most  noi'thern  boundary,  nearly  midwa;y  be- 
tween the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  and  in  tfie  range  of  the 
great  plains  that  extend  from  the  north  pole  in  a  southerly 
direction  along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  thence 
southerly  through  Minnesota,  Wisconsin,  and  Illinois,  perfectly 
free  from  the  influence  of  winds  from  the  oceans  or  northern 
lakes,  we  are  surrounded  by  an  atmosphere  purely  our  own. 


Jf:f 

w 


76 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS    UESOLECES. 


I  I" 


If 


iin 


'I  J 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE    ST.  LOms    nrVKR    OP    LAKE    SUPERIOR,  LA    POINTE,    FOND    D?S 
I.AC,    ST.    CUOIX    PINERIES,    ETC. 

The  Lead   of  Lake  Superior  is  about  five  miles  wide,  the 
shore   torining  nearly  a  regular  semicircle.      The   St.  Louis 
river  enters   the  lake  near  the  middle   of  this  bend.     The 
entrance  from  the  lake  is  about  west,  forty  or  fifty  rods,  wheu 
the  river  bends  suddenly  to   the   north,   keeping   its  course 
parallel  with  the  lake  shore  about  half  a  mile,  when  the  course 
IS  again  changed  to    the  southwest.     Here  the  river  widens 
out  into  a  bay  about  six  miles  long,  and,  in  places,  two  miles 
wide  ;  having  several  small   islands  in  it.     The  bend  of  the 
river,  near  the  mouth,  forms  a  peninsula  between  its  north  bank 
and  the  lake,  about  a  mile  long,  and  averaging  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  in   width.     It  is    a  body  of  sand,  producing  only 
«ome  small   evergreen  underbrush,  and   a  beautiful  grove  of 
tall,  straight,  limbless,  yellow  pines.     On  the  south  side  of  the 
nver  there  is  a  tract  of  several  hundred  acres  of  low  land,  a 
portion  of  which  is  similar  to  that  on  the  north  side,  but  much 
of  It   IS   swampy.     The  American  Fur  Company,  previous  to 
1840,  had  a  trading  post  here,  about  h;ilf  a  mile  from  the  lake 
but  it  was  subsequently  removed  to  Fond  du  Lac,  at  the  foot 
of  the  falls. 

The  river  at  its  mouth  is  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide 
and  obstructed  by  a  sandbar,  holding  countless  snags  ;  but  on 
passing  this  a  few  rods,  it  brings  the  boat  beyond  the  bend, 
into  calm,  deep  water,  in  any  weather.  At  the  head  of  the 
bay  the  traveller  is  in  want  of  a  pilot.  From  that  point  to 
the  falls,  the  river  is  full  of  islands  and  fields  of  wild  rice, 
around  and  througli  uhicli  there  are  numerous  channels.     The' 


m 


EIVEKS,    FISIIEltrES,   ETC. 


T7 


FOND    D^ 

wide,  the 
3t.  Louis 
id.     The 
ds,  wheu 
-s  course 
le  course 
:'  widens 
wo  miles 
d  of  the 
rth  bank 
I  quarter 
ing  only 
?rove  of 
le  of  the 
V  land,  a 
ut  much 
vious  to 
he  lake, 
the  foot 

le  wide, 
but  on 
le  bend, 
i  of  the 
point  to 
ild  rice, 
i.    The 


inexperienced  may  row  several  miles,  and  find  himself  at  the 
head  of  a  bay  or  cove,  and  be  under  the  necessity  of  returning 
to  seek  the  true  channel.  From  the  lake  to  the  falls,  called 
twenty  miles,  the  northern  shore  is  bold  and  rugged,  except  iu 
a  few  places  where  it  falls  back,  forming  a  small  plat  of  table- 
land between  it  and  the  river,  or  gives  vent  to  a  small  mountain 
stream.  The  bluffs  on  the  south  side  are  similar  to  those  on 
the  north,  for  several  miles  below  the  falls;  they  there  dis- 
appear. The  Fond  du  Lac  river,  from  the  southwest,  enters 
the  lake  about  two  miles  south  of  the  outlet  of  the  St.  Louis, 
and  the  valleys  of  the  two  rivers  are  merged  in  one  some  six 
or  seven  miles  from  the  lake. 

A  few  rods  below  the  falls,  a  creek  of  pure,  never-failing 
water  from  the  north,  forms  a  junction  with  the  river.  The 
west  side  of  the  valley  formed  by  this  creek  was  occupied  by  tiie 
American  Fur  Company,  and  the  east  by  the  missionary  estab- 
lishment of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  The  whole 
valley  does  not  afford  above  eighty  acres  of  arable  land. 

About  three  miles  north  of  Fond  du  Lac,  a  peak  of  one  of 
the  mountains  towers  far  above  all  others.     The  only  ascent 
is  on  the  north  side,  and  is  tolerably  easy  for  a  footman.     The 
south  side  is  a  perpendicular  rock  of  several  hundred  feet  in 
height.     The  summit  is  a  level  bare  rock.     Tlie  stone  forming 
this  peak  is  unlike  anything  else  seen  in  the  country.     It  is 
of  a  dark  gray  color,  and  so  close  in  texture,  that  the  united 
strength  of  myself  and  interpreter  could  not  break  a  piece  of 
It  by  hurling  it  against  the  mass  on  which  we  stood.     The 
beholder  can  scra-cely  resist  the  impression,  that  he  stands  on 
a  pyramid,  in  the  midst  of  an  immense  basin,  wliose  outer  rim 
AS  the  liant  of  human  vision.     Lake  Superior,  though  v.venty 
;ailps  distant,  appears  as  if  lying  at  his  feet,  ai  :^     .etching 
1.  -3it  away  to  the  east,  until  sight  loses  it  in  ^he  distance ; 
and  thenver.  with  its  islands,  channels,  and  rice-fields,  is  all 
m  +Mll  v.^ew  from  the  falls  to  its  mouth.     The  writ.r  has  never 
Poen  another  spot  where  such  a  comprehensive  view  of  the 
vastne-s  of  creation  eould  be  obtained. 

The  falls  of  the  St.  Louis  river  are  nothing  more  than  a  sue- 
cession  of  rapids  for  the  ^stance  of  about  fftt.a  miles,  except 


. 


.jjl! 


It-*     I  '    I 


Mi 


! 


lU  >       (  . 


I 


(    f«  :1  Mi 


ii«i 


E  !iii 


78 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS    UKSOURCES. 


at  tl.e  head  of  «  Knife  Portn^o."     At  that  point  the  water  falls 

tl  o7s  P7-\^^-^^^-^>'-  Above  \hat  point,  to  the 
mouth  of  Savannah   river,  eighty  miles  from  the  lake,  there 

inies'wn  T  "  ''^^^''^-     ^^J-  l>ottom,s  are  several 

22  "f /7^^^1«'  -cleed  most  of  the  way,  and  often  over- 
flown. Bnt,  from  Fond  du  Lac  to  the  above-named  falls,  the 
water  rushes  throngh  a  narrow  gorge,  the  banks  in  sevlal 

m  mti; ;'' -"^  t''  '^'^  '^  '"'  '""^^^-^^  ^'''  ^'^^^'  -"d  always 
uumbhng  in.     In  several  places  within  two  miles  of  Fond  du 

Lac  they  are  composed  of  shale,  sand,  and  boulders ;  the  slaty 
shale  ly„,g  „,  regular  strata,  dipping  several  degrees  west- 
ward on  the  south  side,  and  equally  eastward  on' the  norl 
Side.     Just  above  these  banks,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river 

t"  tTewT"  ''!'''^  ''''''  "'^"^  ''''''  -PP-' precisely  like' 
that  below  Lapomte,  is  exposed  to  view  in  low  water.     It  has 

the  appearance   of  having  once  been    covered  with  a  bank 

snnilar  to  those  above  described,  which  has  washed  away  •  and 

It  was  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  that  the  same  formation  might 

be  found  under  n.any  of  the  hills  around  the  falls.     Up  the 

creek  before  mentioned,  a  mile  from  the  river,  the  same  mixture 

of  shale  and  sand  may  be  seen  in  many  places.     The  Indians 

considered  t  is  metallic  substance  in  the  trap  rock  valuable 

and  m  the  treaty  made  at  Lapointe.  in  1842,  they  reserved 

us  spo  ,  sfpuiating  that  the  trader's  store,  one  nfile  beirM. 

hould   be  the  corner  of  that  session.     The  head  chief  often 

the  mis.      "         ""'  '''' '''''  ^^"^'  ''  ^^^""  ««  ^^  «^-l^  get 

The  first  portage  on  these  falls  is  about  eight  miles  long,  on 

he  ncn-th  side  of  the  river.     It  is  over  a  very  rough  coun  ry" 

Tlf  f  "r"    '"'^  '""^r^  ^^^'^^^^'  '-^^  -  g— lly  impral: 
cable  for  horses,  or  anything  that  can  not  walk  a  pole      At 

the  head  of  this  portage  canoes  are  used  again,  for  two  miles 

|u.d   here  the  "Knife  portage"  is  made  on  the  south  side  of  the 

ivei,  three  miles,  to  the  grand  falls  above  alluded  to.     In 

iHgh  water,  both  of  thes-e  portages  are  longer.     On  both  sides 

of  the  river  at  the  Knife  portage,  much  of  the  surface  of  the 

ground  IS  covered  with  masses  of  slate  equal  to  any  hone  for 


m 


RIVERS,    FISHEIUES,    ETC. 


^atcr  falls 
nt,    to   tho 
ake,  there 
ire  several 
)ften  over- 
i  falls,  the 
in  several 
id  always 
P  Fond  du 
the  slaty 
•ees  west- 
the  north 
the  river, 
isely  like 
1'.     It  has 
1  a  bank 
vay;  and 
ion  might 
Up  the 
5  mixture 
;  Indians 
valuable, 
reserved 
le  beloM', 
ief  often 
t  amount 
lould  get 

long,  on 
country, 
imprac- 
3le.  At 
0  miles, 
e  of  the 
to.  In 
th  sides 
of  the 
tone  for 


edged  tools.     They  1 


79 


ey  have  the  appearance  of  beiu-  th 


.o«ulamy  ,„  then.  posUio.,,  and  .l,o  i„. '.vcui„g'g.„„„a  being 

iiicit  used   in  -Luiiland  for  filino-      'ri.,^  i 

surface  of  ,„e  groLd,  iXe^:Zu,u"'  """"''  """  ""  '"« 
There  can  scarcely  be  a  limit  to  tbe  amount  of  fisb,  pickerel 

cot'ofl'r • '^  "f  "r  "'"  -rM»  .luring  ab'ollu    e 
iveok8  of    be  sprmg.     I„  the  spring  of  1843,  ,     .yo-fathom 

mg  ana   the  other  usnijy  a  d  n-not      l^ntl.  „r^ 

.;.o  rapids  suiHcieut,,.  far,  .beVote  s'lrtb.    .:Z:i 

Oft:  ::;r  """^ "-  -™  ^"  i>--';  rt^X'-^d: 

iulanron'lbesf'l''"'  "  *''''''"'  '"''  ^"'■■^'"'  ^'-•-  »»- 
f  rocky  ridge  about  elevl:  n d.'e     '^     'it't™,^  ,',•?;"?  '" 

tbe  „,o„tb  of  tbel"  Wrt  /'"''^7'"^™  'i™  ixl'^youd 

rears  and  plunges  "  like  mad"     i,J\      f  |  be  needle 

fixed  by  tl!e  soL  compass  °""^  °'  """^  '■"™  '»  •>« 

*-ongti..'"o,::i,:dtn':!,?"f  "r'^-™-"  ■'--  -«»>-'"•«. 

inovisronsfortenda":  v"  1  "  V'T'^^  "'  <''''™"  ""=" 

.ork  and  sometL^:^:is:;^:;:Lnr  :  eS 't^^ 

common  nhenompmn  ,•»  .     •  ^  census.     Mirage  is  a 

opening  s'l  IHrt  e""„  rfZ"  rr"-   *:-  '"^  ^»^«  -' 

oOJoc.  out  „„  tbe  lake  is  ^^:ilCZt^:Z:^ 


Wl'.: 


80 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS    KES0URCE3. 


dense  medium  of  air  and  a  thin  medium.  Hence  is  a  refraction 
of  rays,  whicli  gives  so  many  wonderful  sights  that  the  Chip- 
pewas  call  that  the  spirit  or  enchanted  land.  Sail  vessels 
which  are  really  thirty  miles  off,  are  seen  flapping  and  bellying 
about  almost  within  touch.  Turreted  islands  look  heady  and 
toppling  towards  the  zenith.  Forests  seem  to  leap  from  their 
stems,  and  go  a  soaring  like  thistles  for  the  very  sport  of  it. 

The  ice  does  not  leave  some  of  the  bays  till  the  10th  of 
June.  The  fish  are  delicious,  especially  the  salmon  trout. 
But  little  land  game.  We  calculate  on  wonderful  enterprises 
in  tliat  country  after  the  opening  of  the  Saut  canal. 

Lapointe  is  a  town  on  the  lake,  situated  at  the  head  of  a 
bay  some  twenty-five  miles  from  the  high  lake,  and  secluded 
from  the  lake  by  several  islands.  There  is  a  warehouse  three 
hundred  feet  long,  built  of  tamarac  poles,  and  roofed  with  bark, 
rhis  building  is  very  much  warped  by  the  pressure  of  age;  it 
IS  entered  by  a  wooden  railway.  •  The  town  is  dingy  and 
dreary.  A  luxurious  garden  contains  a  variety  of  fruit-trees 
and  shrubs,  planted  by  Charles  IL  Oakes,  Esq.,  now  a  resident 
ot  St.  Paul. 

The  following  narration  of  a  trip  from  Lapointe  to  Still- 
water, via  Lake  Superior,  Brule  and  St.  Croix  rivers,  will  be 
found  interesting : — 

"It  was  a  beautiful  bright  afternoon  in  August,  that,  M^ith 
two  hired  half-brccd  voy.geurs,  in  a  birch-canoe  provisioned 
for  eighteen  days,  we  left  Lapointe,  and  struck  out  into  the 
clear,  smooth,  deep   waters   of   Lake    Superior.      The    coast 
scenery,  that  from  Saut  St.  Marie  to  this  point  had  been  very 
dull  and  monotonous,  now  suddenly  changed,  reaching  throuo-h 
all  the  degrees  of  beauty,  from  gentle  slopes,  rolling  hills,  to 
widely  romantic,  broken  mountains.     It  is  here  that  the  Porcu- 
pine mountains  set  in  towards  the  shore,  and  in  places  come 
out  boldly,  as  if  in  the  act  of  crossing   the   lake,  but  were 
suddenly  split  down  vertically,  forming  a  mural  escarpment, 
perpcnaicular  from  the  water's  edge,  hundreds  of  feet  hio-h,  as 
smooth  and  solid  as  the  masonry  of    a   vast  fortress.     The 
strata  are  of  the  old  red  sandstone,  of  a  fine  compact  texture, 
and  never  in  the  world  can  quarries  of  handsomer  stone  be 


I 


m 
m 


""^ 


lilVlCKS,    FISI1KKIK6,    KIV. 


81 


a  refraction 
at  the  Chip- 
Sail  vessels 
nd  bellying 
heady  and 
p  from  their 
ort  of  it. 
he  10th  of 
Imon  trout, 
enterprises 

• 

5  head  of  a 

id  secluded 

louse  three 

[  with  bark. 

of  age ;  it 

dingy  and 

fruit-trees 

a  resident 

e  to  Still- 
srs,  will  be 

that,  with 
rovisioned 
it  into  the 
riie   coast 
been  very 
g  through 
g  hills,  to 
he  Porcu- 
^ces  come 
but  were 
3arpment, 
;  high,  as 
ss.     The 
t  texture, 
stone  be 


m 


.is 


fuund  thm.  those.  Blocks  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  long  the 
outer  .surface  smooth  as  pressed  brick,  lay  disjointed  ready 
tor  siiipnient.  "^ 

"  Many  of  these  bold  mountain  masses  project  over  the  water 
from  sixteen  to  twenty  feet,  supported  at  the  outer  edge  by 
perfectly-formed  columns,  worn  so  by  long  action  of  the  waves 
IJiese  columns  are  of  very  curious  workmanship  indeed  We 
passed  under  many  of  these  rocky  arches,  like  n.ajestic  gate- 
ways, and  examined  more  than  a  dozen  columns  of  various 
diameters  and  heights,  and  all  appearing  as  if  drawn  after 
more  well-proportioned  architectural  models. 

"  The  journey  now  before  us  was  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  miles    ninety  of  which  lay  along  this  coast,  up  to  the 
mouth  of  Brule  river.     Fortunately  for  the  voyageur  at  this 
season,    here  is  scarcely  the  shadow  of  a  night  upon  the  lake. 
At  ten  o  clock  we  could  still  read  distinctly,  and  at  twelve  there 
were  soft  crimson  pcncilings  upon  the  western  horizon  of  that 
gorgeous  twilight  which  makes  the  summer  evenings  here  so 
enchanting.     I  have  seen  night  here  so  transcendently  beau- 
tiful, with  Its  bright  stars  and  silvery  moon -its  atmosphere 
so  transparent-that  the  arch  of  heaven  looked  more  serene 
and  heavenly,  more  like  the  abode  of  spiritual  beings,  and  the 
clear  blue  ether  mcn-e  like  the  drapery  that  garnisheVa  poe   c 
u-  imaginary  than  a  real  world.     As  we  glided  along  in  t  e 
.tdlness  of    he  night,  our  canoe  moving  so  lightly  a!  not    o 
iiiffle  the  pohshed  surface,  the  scenic  picture  was  all  that  tl  e 
most  enthusiastic  novelist  could  desirl.     On  one   side,     one 
miles  distant,  lay  a  long  string  of  conical  islands,  thicklv    o"- 

e;i:nlT;-  t   '""^  '"'"^""^  ^"^^  ^"  *'-  «--  shore, -at  :. 
equal  d.  tance,  wrapped  in  a  shadowy  gloom,  lay  green  slopes 

or  in  s,nen  grandeur  hung  bold  peaks  or  cli/of  mountl   ' 

^ot  a  sound  was  heard,  except  for  a  time  the  stunnin.  noi  e 

of  a  cataract  that  came  leaping  from  the  top  of  the  h^i!  ts 

dashing  down  from  rock  to  rock,  its  bright  spi-ay  dancing  in    n 

l.e  moonbeams  and  enveloping  the  dwarfed  pines  in  In    t " 

nl  sheet  of  mist.     We  had  left  far  behind  us  all  traces    fy, 

^^hcn  the      «tars  sang  together,  and  all  the  sons  of  God 

4* 


1 

ii 

f 

t 

! 

II 

! 

i 

1 

1 

1 

mi'- 


83 


M1NN1':80TA   AND    ITS   KKSOUJJCra. 


Bl.onted  for  joy"  at  the  new  creation.  Tl.o  scenery  is  {.rand 
at  all  tiu.es  ;  but  in  the  stillness  of  nij^ht,  lighted  up  by  a  Lake 
hupenor  moon,  it  is  magnilicently  picturesque  beyond  descrip- 

"It  was  a  dangerous  though  fortunate  gale,  on  the  second 
c  ay,  that  carried  us  about  ten  miles  an  hour  for  eight  hours  to 
the  mouth  of  the  river  wo  designed  to  ascend.     We  reached 
the   delta,  formed   by  sand   and   driftwood,  at  dusk,  and  en- 
camped.    The  next  n,orning  the  canoe  was  well  pitched,  the 
trcight  uniformly  disposed  along  the  bottom  — my  place  being 
oil  a  p.lc  of  coats  and  blankets  amidships  — when  old  Charon 
nnd  assistant  took  their  position,  denuded  of  all  clothin-  ex- 
eept  their  breechcloth  and  shirt  fore  and  aft.     The  Brule  is  a 
narrow,  wild   roaring,  rocky  stream.     Looking  up  the  mouth, 
It  comes  rushing  down  a  woody,  mountainous  gorge,  leaping 
over  huge  trap  and  granite  boulders,  apparently  defying  all 
iorms  of  navigation.     This  tumultuous,  whirling  current  we 
ascended  one  hundred  miles,  averaging  twenty-five  miles  per 
aay,  in  a  light  bark  canoe,  twenty-seven  feet  long  by  five  mid- 
ships, tapering  sharp  at  the  ends,  turning  up  like  a  Chinese 
junk,  freighted  with  about  twelve  hundred  pounds.     The  boat 
IS  set  up  the  rapids  by  poles;  and  where  the  rocky  walls  en- 
croach upon  the  bed  of  the  river,  crowding  it  into  a  nar- 
row channel,  and  this  further  interrupted  by  reefs  and  boul- 
ders, the  passage  is  attended  with  great  difficulty  and  danger. 
The  boatmen  are  naked,  that,  should  they  miss  a  stroke  with 
the  pole,  like  a  flash  they  dart  into  the  stream,  holding  firmly 
the  canoe,  towing  it  to  shoal  water,  otherwise  it  would  be 
instant  y  dashed  to  pieces  by  the  force  of  the  current  against 
the  rocks.     No  one  who  has  not  travelled  with  these  fellows 
can   form  any  idea  of  their  expertness  in  managing  a  boat 
among  the  rapids.     I  take  time  to  speak  of  the  mode  and  dan- 
ger of  ascending  this  stream,  as  romantic  persons  have  signi- 
led  a  determination  to  make  the  trip  next  summer,  and  should 
they  fail  to  get  good,  experienced  yoyageurs,  they  will  stand 
a  fair  chance  of  being  left  in  the  wilderness  some  hundreds  of 
miles  from  any  white  settlement,  with  the  pleasing  prospect 
of  a  long  groping  through  one  of  the  most  impenetrable  foAsts 


ry  is  grand 

by  a  Lake 

nd  descrip- 

Hie  second 
lit  hours  to 
^c  reached 
k,  and  en- 
itclied,  the 
lace  being 
>hl  Charon 
')tliing  ex- 
Brule  is  a 
;he  mouth, 
;e,  leaping 
efying  all 
urront  we 
miles  per 
five  mid- 
a  Chinese 
The  boat 
walls  en- 
to   a  nar- 
and  boul- 
d  danger, 
i-oke  -with 
ng  firmly 
ivould  be 
t  against 
e  fellows 
?  a  boat 
and  dan- 
ve  si  gui- 
ld should 
ill  stand 
dreds  of 
prospect 
e  forests 


KIVERS,    nsiIEKira,    KTO. 


In  the  world.     j\[on  who  have  been  in  th 


88 


ican  Fur  Company  understand  tlie  str 


The  country  reaching  south  from  the  Ink 


e  service  of  the  Amcr- 
eams  and  rapids  the  best. 


e  one  hundred  mil 


es 


IS  rough,  cheerless,  covered  with  pines,  elms,  tamarac,  cedars, 
&c.  The  rocks,  of  igneous  origin,  which  form  the  mineral 
region  m  Michigan,  extend  across  Wisconsin,  and  reach  Min- 
nesota, by  what  appears  a  singular  dislocation,  throwing  them 
near  y  two  hundred  miles  south.  Copper  is  found  on  the  Brule 
In  Wisconsin;  and  when  I  reached  tlie  falls  of  St.  Croix  spe- 
':  cimcns  were  exhibited,  coming  from  the  trap  range  which  here 
makes  its  appearance. 

"  The  Brule  in  olden  times  was  great  trapping  ground.  We 
saw  the  remains  of  large  beaver-dams,  and  well-beaten  paths, 
which  the  trappers  call  portages.  They  are  across  long,  sharp 
ponits  where  the  river  makes  a  sudden  bend.  It  was  through 
this  stream  that  the  numerous  trapping  posts  on  the  St.  Croix 
and  tributaries,  the  St.  Peter  and  other  tributaries  of  the  U,.- 
per  Mississippi  were  supplied  from  the  largo  fur-company  post 
at  Lapointe.  Ihere  are  now  no  longer  beaver  or  otter  found 
Here  ;   but  rats  are  numerous,  and  some  martin. 

"Aftei-  passing  the  ridge  of  highlands,  on  the  third  day,  the 
country  is  level,  marshy,  and  numerous  lakes  are  covered  with 
ducks,  and  are  alive  with  speckled  trout,  of  a  good  size  and 
delicious  flavor  There  are  several  hard  portages,  in  places 
where  the  rapids  are  too  dangerous;  and  when,  on  the  fourth 
evening,  we  reached  Le  Grand  Portage,  at  the  head  of  the 
Brule,  we  hailed  it  with  joyful  delight.  This  was  the  portage 
across  the  ridge  which  divides  the  south  from  the  north  run- 
ning streams- from  the  Brule  to  the  headquarters  of  the  St 

smoothly  with  the  current,  under  sail,  or  with  light  oars. 
_     I  had  often  listened  to  what  I  considered  extravagant  sto- 
nes  0    the  feat  and  strength  of  'pack-men;'  and  not  I  .    . 
nessed  what,  as  I  attempt  to  relate,  I   can  scarcely  ere      . 
The  portage  now  to  make  was  three  miles,  up  and  down  hil 
over  a  hot,  sunburnt,  barren  heath.     The  afternoon  was  s    e l' 

InTtt  till  r/'l^  T'r  1  "^  ""  ^^^^'^^'^"^■'  ^"^-^-"^^""^  ^-    ' 
and  the  thick  forest  which  hemmed  in  the  trail  cut  off  every 


'•ui 


I  rf 


Itw' '! 


f 


.  in 


SI 


MINNI'NMi  \     \\\t    lis    l.'l  Hnl Ktll'H. 


h 


<t   !* 


'""'"'ii  "I  tilt'  iiir.  'riio  rmnm  whh  liilirii  iihlmri*,  niiil  tlin 
IVoi^'lil  iiithio  n|i  into  j>iii'kMKt<H.  A  Hiroiip;  Ifjillicr  Mlijip,  jiliinit. 
Itiiii'  viiiiIm  iiluiiH,  lour  iiu'lu'H  wiiN*  in  llio  fjMilio,  Uinniiif^'  giiul- 
niillv  to  tlio  (iitlM,  iw  iist'tl,  liy  liisliiii};'  llu\  loiifj;'  imkIn  /uoiiikI  iIiu 
|«M«|v(i^(«M,  tho  liioMtl  milio  I'oriiiiii^;  n  ltin|i  whidi  In  pImimmI 
iijj:iruiNt  tlio  lor»*luMiil,  tlir  IiiikIimi  Ivinj^  upon  tlir  HlioiildriH. 
Mv  trunk  \MiM  liiiyr,  t'nininu'd  to  ii\«i  How  ing,  w  oigliiii^?  nlioiit 
tMn^  lininlrj'tl  pomnln.  'rim  striip  uoiif  roiiinl  tliii,  upon  uliifli 
WMs  pin.-od  I'onr  liw-i^o,  \\vn\\  l>linikt>tH,  cotton  tent,  llirot^  ovcr- 
••oiitM,  Iwif;'  ot'lloni-  (iMfJily  ponndH),  iron  lioinni  krj,'  with  litpior 
(twrnty  poiiinis).  when  •  llcrfnlt>H'  N.|n)itlril,  nlippnl  tlu<  iioono 
o\»»r  liis  ItoMil,  ^o,s^^  up,  tln*n  Hfi/.in^'  his  linmlH  lull  oi' cMiiip  krt 
tlt'M,  pans,  i\,f  ,  Ntartt'tl  oil"  mm  «Mt»ct  hn  a  solditM',  and  krpt  mo 
Idouiu.;-.  Nwralinj';.  and  paiilinj;'.  lo  kr««p  pat-o  with  him  acroHH 
tlit<  portM-Atv  'I'ho  other,  ohl  Sow yt'rain,  N»n  ^^nt}■  3t«aiH  id' aj;«% 
>Aas  h>ail<'d  f(|nally  hcax  \  ! 

••  Wr  w«<n^  now  tipon  iht*  St.  ("loix.  or  rather  at  thi^  hoiIiu|^ 
t'piin;;;.  \>hii-h  soiuIn  a  portion  of  ilw  wat«<rs  to  thi«  south  to  HOtdi 
(ht>  };ul|"  ot'  Mi>\ifo,  ami  anothm-  north  to  iht^  ^nll"  of  St.  Law 
ronr«'.  At  this  luall  point,  in  this  l>t«autilul  crvhlal  Itasin.  two 
rivers  taki<  their  ri.s<>.  ( )lu^  milt^  htdow  this  th^^  St.Croix  is 
half  a  mi^^  wide,  fiuininf;-  a  ih-.p  h'lki'.  threi>  mih's  htnj"-,  ptM'- 
fv'etly  ali\^^  with  amphibia  and  li.^h.  ( >h.  how  awl'nllv  w  ihl, 
^H^^^ly,  ami  still,  are  thesl^  plaees  !  >\  ,<  know  that  we  are  hun- 
dreds of  mili-s  tVitm  all  ei\  ili/alion.  \\hit(*  mt^n  have  heen 
heri\  hut  left  lU)  traiM<s  hehind.  \V«(  move  down  to  a  small, 
open  spot,  and  eamp  for  the  ni;;,ht  on  the  mar«;in  of  the  lake. 
There  is  not  a  ripph^  on  the  w.iier,  ami  tlu^  «lark  shadows  of 
the  heavy  fre<>s  on  the  opposite  sidi>  art^  r(>aehin^-  o\er;  for 
tln^  red.  hot  sun  is  now  low  in  the  w»'st  ;  and  oh.  what  a  soli- 
tary stilhiess.  as  if  the  wluuds  ol  Time  stood  still,  ami  Mature 
pauseil  in  breathless  suspeusi' ! 

•• 'The  ilosi-ent  of  this  river  was  very  irksonio  ntid  tedious, 
requiring:  four  days.  The  stre.'im  is  tortuous,  and  has  hut  little 
eurr«Mit  ;  is  bordered  by  an  almost  eontimious  sueeession  of 
marshes,  wild  riee  tiehls.  .ami  l;iri;e  eranherry-patehos.  C)n  the 
third  day  the  eountry  ehanued.  and  larj^v  natnral-gr.tss  m»<ad- 
ows  sprt'ad  out  from  tlu>  shores  for  miles.      The  t^rass  was  about 


'4 


■as. 
9 


i't<,    (111(1    dm 
»l|-fl|t,  jilidiit. 

iirtiiiiitl  llat 
li  \h  plaiMwl 
^  Hliiiiildri'H. 
:;liiiif>-  iiliniit 
ii|Miii  uliicli 
tlinM*  ovor- 
witli  li(|ii()r 

I     lll(«     IIOUNO 

I'  i-Miii|i  krt 
i«l  k«>|it    uu\ 
him  iici'oMs 
IMUH  oi'  jij;«s 

tlir  l)oiliii|j; 
lltli  (t>  HOtdi 
•f  Si.  Ljiw- 
ItMsiii,  two 
U.  ( 'nti  \    hi 

It'll""-,   jHM'- 

Ciilly  \\il(l, 
to  aro  liiiii- 

IlMVl>    1>1'«M1 

to  a  siiuill, 

i'  tlio  lalu«. 

iliadows  ot' 
o\t'r;  i'or 
hat  a  Holi- 

ind  Matiiro 

id  t»Mlioiis, 
s  but  lit  lie 
I'osslon  of 
s  On  Iho 
rass  ni»»ad 
was  about 


HIil'F.lllon    AND    AIMA(  ICNI'    «!(»l!NruV.  H5 

h\k   f-H  h'.d,,  and   would  yiH,]   ,it  thn   r,l.«  of    many  tor.H  t..  U.n 


lien 


s 


"Af    I-.'  (inn. I    Portn^'-,  and  nomip  (.(h.T  places,  wo   pnsN..d  iho 
••••""""•^  "I"  "ncinit,  Chippewa  towns.      |   ......Id   not,  avoi.i   a  frrhnK 

<.l  HadnoHM  whon  puMHinfr  th..|,.,  and  in  plan-.s  I  rainhl...!  ovor  (Itmo 
lorlnrn,  „„d  h,,„,,h.  |„  ,„„.  „p„„^  |„,„„tin,|  Hp„^  ,,„„„  ,^,,|y^,  dcmy.-d 
Inun.s  remain,  an<l  th.i  niarlcs  of  ..amp-liiVH,  kincHod  horn  perhaps 
h'l-  (vnturnH,  hut.  now  (h«H..,(e.l,  and  ^tHi  as  chsath.  All  t,l„.  „M 
h.an..  assoei..ili..n,s  — tho  fandliar  CoiVHtH,  tin,  haunts  of  the  dr.r 
woll.  ,nd  l.ear-lho  mausoleums  of  tho  dead  -all,  all  an,  lelt 
•'••hind,  as  Iho  imp..rativ(,  command  of  tlu.  while  sap  to  tho  re.l 
man,  '  Onwanl.  onward,  t,o  tho  wihl,  snowy  mountains  of  tho  west  1' 
Ann.ne:i  crowds  then,  upon  Mexi.-o  and  iho  mountains:  Mexico 
»«';1  the  slenle  mounlains  crowd   then,  ha.dc.      In  one  spot  wo  mot 

a    ews.,ual,d.  miserahlyj r.  halfstarve.!    men,  s.p.aw.s,  and  do,.H, 

who  had  wan<h..e.l  a  Ion,;  way  ha.  k  IVon,  tho  main  Iril.o  They 
were  living  upon  who.tlehenies  an.J  what  lish  they  could  sncar  in 
tho  river.  * 

Nni'Kllloll    AND    AD.IACKNT    (.'OUNTIIV, 

Superior,  in  Wisconsin,  is  sit.mted  on  a  hay  .d"  that  name,  at  the 
ox tren>e  western  point  of  navigati...,  on  Lak<«  Superior.  The  hiv 
.stormed  hy  the  St.  houis,  Nemaji  and  Allouez  rivers,  and   it'co.;- 

=nns  ahout   ten   .piare   miles.      It  allords   a  capacious  and  Hooure 

''?,;;"■•      '  '7'"'- '"   it.  is   ahout   three-fourlhs  of  a  mile  in 

;A;nIll.:   and  the  .leplh  .,f  wat.-r  ou  tho  har  is  ahout  tw.dvo  foot. 

Ih.s  hay  .s  easy  o|  access  (Von.  the  Lake,  and  may  he  re.anh.d  as 
on.'  ol  Iho  ..alest  and  most  hoautiful  harhors  on  tho  western  wafers 
Upon  tins  hay  ,s  rapidly  springin.i.  up  tho  town  of  Supori.u-,  which 
iuvseuts  a  remarkahlo  iustauoo  of  western  growth  and  onlerpriso 
l-ess  than  two  years  a,,.,  its  site  was  in  tho  midst  of  an  unbroken 
^v'l.l.«'•ness;  ,f  now  c.mtains  ahout  one  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is 
tlH>  nmuty  seat  ot    Potiirlass  oounty.      The  site  of  this  town  was 

.0^..  od  by  Mr.  W.  II.  Nowton;  it  was  laid  out  in  tho  suml^ 
N.»,  and  .ueh  arc  its  position  and  advanta^^os,  that  it  must  soon 
boejune  one  oi  the  uuj.rtant  conunorcial joints  of  tho  northwest 

N  h  and  west  ot  Superior  is  a  largo  extent  of  valuable  agri- 
nitural  country,  pos.sessMig  soil  and  olimato  capable  of  producing 
^^■''■•"-•'''■''''^'   '•'■'■'••-'-  •'•-l-.p-aius    in  .rear  '^^^^^^^ 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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I 


! 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   RESOURCES. 


If^ 


and  abundance.  The  hardy  esculents  peculiar  to  the  northern 
States,  flourish  equally  well  here,  except  on  the  pine  and  mineral 
lands  that  occupy  a  portion  of  this  region  of  country.  But  if  these 
are  not  valuable  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  they  possess 
resources  which,  when  developed  by  the  St.  Croix  and  Lake  Supe- 
rior, and  Minnesota  and  Northwestern  Ilailrods,  will  of  themselves 
furnish  these  roads  with  a  large  business,  while  they  will  astonish 
those  who  have  not  seen  them,  with  their  richness  and  extent. 
Those  advantages  have  already  attracted  many  settlers. 

While  the  agricultural,  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  lumbering 
resources  of  this  country  have  been  appreciated  — until  recently, 
the  immense  value  of  its  copper  has  attracted  but  little  attention! 
The  fact  that  copper,  in  large  masses,  existed  here,  was  discovered 
by  the  Jesuits  in  their  early  and  adventurous  explorations,  and  by 
them  made  public;  but  not  until  the  year  184-4,  was  there  any 
organized  effort  made  to  conduct  mining  operations  on  an  extensive 
scale. 

The  Phoenix  Mining  Company  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition, 
realizing  large  profits  from  its  mines.  The  opening  of  the  Sault 
Ste.  Marie  Canal,  completing  the  water  communication  between 
Lake  Superior  and  the  lower  lakes,  will  have  a  tendency  to  greatly 
facilitate  mining  operations  here,  the  natural  result  of  which  will 
be,  correspondingly  large  additions  to  the  hitherto  remunerative 
profits  of  the  business. 

In  addition  to  its  copper,  this  region  possesses  vast  mines  of  iron, 
easy  of  access,  and  superior  in  quality  to  the  iron  of  Sweden  and 
Norway.  On  account  of  its  great  excellence,  it  already  brings  a 
higher  price  in  market  than  any  of  the  imported  varieties.  Com- 
panies are  already  engaged  in  developing  this  important  source  of 
wealth.  The  vast  amount  of  copper  and  iron  existing  in  this  sec- 
tion of  country,  in  unexampled  richness  and  purity,  (independent 
of  pine  lands),  renders  this  one  of  the  richest,  while  its  now 
certain  speedy  development  will  make  it  one  of  the  most  productive 
regions  in  the  country.  But  these  subjects  are  too  important  in 
themselves  to  every  individual  settler  to  require  here  more  than  a 
passing  notice. 

The  climate  is  mild  and  pleasant,  and  particularly  favorable  to 
thfi  growth  of  wheat.  It  is  not  subject  to  the  many  and  suddc-n 
changes  that  characterize  other  sections  of  the  country ;  and  though 
the  winters  are  considerably  severe,  the  depth  of  snow  seldom  c.\- 


m 


SUPEUIOU  A.VU  AUJAUUNT  COUNTRY.  gT 

ceeJs  twenty  inchc.  Tho  atmosphore  !s  dry  and  rure  and  fh. 
country  i,  healthy.  At  a  certain  depth  bololtbr„'2c!  tt 
water,  of  Lake  Superior  aImo,t  always  have  a  tlperatu  of  "for 
degrees;  and  th,.s  doubtless  has  much  to  do  with  enualizin/,2 
emperature  This  immense  body  of  water  Jver  ZeZlll 
along  the  shore,  and  the  lake  is  open  to  navigation  from  2t 
seven  months  in  the  year.  ° 

This  Lake  is  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  on  the  globe  and 
cjee  s  all  the  other  great  American  Lake,  in  the  depth  and  pu ntv 
Qi  . ,  waters,  the  healthfulnes,  of  it,  shores,  the  gn>„deur  and 
beauty  of  its  scenery,  and  in  tho  value  of  geology  and  ZZlloZ 

tweln  tte'gVth"  'TS.V'"  '"^'"'^  "^  """■  ^^^^^ 
between  tho  84th  and  92d  degree,  of  west  longitude,  eompitin. 

f  om  Greenw.eh.    Its  greatest  length  is  400,  and  Us  e.  rem  C  h 

.s  COO  feet  above  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  its  depression  be  n.  SOO  feet 
below  tho  level  of  the  ocean.  '  ' 

The  scenery  of  this  section  of  country,  south  of  tho  lake  i, 
vaned  and  attractive,  and  possesses  sufHcLt  of  the  sublime  Id 
beautiful  to  ent,ee  the  lover  of  nat.;ro  and  of  wild  wood  recreation 
^^Jir'  ""  '"--     '^-"  ^»  abundant,^!';:: 

"Do  abound  in  Jish  the  choicest; 
Trout,  that  leap  to  tho  angler's' hook!" 

Here  are  far  reaching  prairies,  studded  witli  innumerable  crystal 
lakes;  p.ne  forests  dark  and  wild,  and  solemn ;  smooth  str„th 
graceful  eda.es,  sweeping  over  hidden  rocks;  foaming  rals Tnd 
thunderiuo-  catnnftQ       Af  .  -i  .  "'ti  ^''^i^'iues  ana 

shores  of'TXT  •  V  •^«"'""'«'''  ^he  grand  nnd  attractive 
^bores  of  Lake  Superior  have  a  cool  and  refreshing  temperature 
A  more  desirable  summer  resort  can  hardly  be  found^nd  me  ns  of 
communication  will  soon  make  it  a  place  of  recreation  for  man v  of 
our  citizens  during  the  heat  of  summer.  Especia  ly  w  H  hTs  be 
the  case  when  the  railroad  shall  have  opened  this  coult  y  t  the 
great  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  ^'Juniry  to  ttie 

The  country  adjacent  to  tho  lino  of  the  St.  Croix  and  Lake 
Supenorllailroad  south  of  the  pine  lands,  embraces  the  ^^leys  of 
the  S  Croix,  Willow,  and  Apple  rivers  and  their  tributaries  and 
IS  ferti  e  and  well  wTtprnrl      'vu^  t  it    ^      ,    ,  iriourarics,  and 

from  fiftvTr    1      V    ;  .    ^  ^"*''°  ''''"^'''  ^^^«  ^"  elevation  of 
from  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  above  the  streams,  and  are  dotted 


88 


,^ 


MINNJ5S0IA   AND  ITS  RESOURCES. 


with  a  large  number  of  email  and  beautiful  lakes     Th.  -k  t 

theBo  lakes  are  gently  elevated  and  free  frot  LrJh      v7 
Owen  ™,  .be.  among  .be  beat  wbeat  landrTu  ^^e  n.in^th:: 

ST.  CROIX    PINERIES,  ETC. 

average  value  ofTi     ?  '"  ""  '"«'  800,000,000  feet.    Tht 

per  th^atVe  ,t  :i  "tlb^vX:  TJ'  I'T  f  ""  """^ 
«S,000,000.     For  fbe  nLI!  J        '  ^""^^  ^'"'  "«"  y™"-. 

ratio  of  fifty  per  eent!  ^'™       '  "''"'°  ''"'  '"'<='-'="«"l  in  a 

W;:rn:iuTndTlin"„elta''l  '' ,?™^'  ^^  '^^  =^-°-  "^  ""^ 
ineorporat,-on  of  the"  St  r  ?«■■''  ."'  ^^^°-^''  P™""-!  "=0 

tate  the  burin  17/1^  '^     "'''"'''""^  "="~y'  '°  '"«'«- 

built  Ld  ready  ftr'servL^  ^t  ^  l™^  T""  ""=  ^""^  '^» 
i.ent.    Kers  „f  i„,LZ  ^'"  T''  "  ""''^'"''"''1  and  perma- 

Min„esota"borertrf„ 'rrr°''  "',  P"P^^  *^"'"«-'  f™"-  <ho 
stream,  and  a"io  from  tbe  "^T  t''^'""  '^'  """"'  °f  ""o 
shore.     The  boom  1 1„  I   °^  ""  '''""'^  *°  «■«  Wisconsin 

whole  river  irendrvr  ''' .^f^  .^'r  "'''  '»  P'-J  -"  ^e 
«  single  log  \:::;  '^.  ™i7e° t  ^eT'of "  .r"""'^  °'  =""™^'^     " 
them,   however    to  ti„.   r  '^  company  compels 

aseending  or  de'cendirthf  river^h^l  '",  f-  '""'f'  '"^'''  *»'' 
perform  at  eertain  tim™  "  ^  I'  ,  '  '^"'^  "  '■°"'"  difficult  to 
iuto  the  hoc™  brisk  V  'nSh  "".'"'^  ^^"'  '""  '°8'  "«  '"""i^g 
run  them  out.  tK  .he  '"  ™' ,'°  ""^  '""'  '°  ""  -' 
oame  up  with  a  heavv  f  ■  u  1°  ^""^  """  '"="='"'■  ^he  Asia 
P  witn  a  heavy  freight,  which  she  had  signed  to  deliver 


i 


shores  of 
Professor 
n.  These 
n  we  con- 
ned, pine 
a  recied, 
ly,  while 
aand,  (on 
a   highly 


THE   ST.    CKOIX   PINERIES,    ETC.  89 

at  Taylor  s  fails.     When  she  reached  the  boom,  a  barrier  of 
three   or  four  miles  of  logs   compactly  intervened  upon  the 
waters  surface,  and  forbade  her  further  progress.     The  com- 
pany had  been  unable  to  procure  laborers  to  clear  out  the  logs 
but  were  nevertheless  clearly  liable  to  danjages  for  obstructiL 
navigation.     They  chose  the  only  remedy  at  hand,  which  was 
to  receive  the  freight,  and  pay  its  transportation  up  to  the  falls 
in  Mackinaw  boats.     With    a  full  complement   of  men,  the 
boom  can  always  be  kept  clear  at  the  point  where  it  crosses 
he   main    channel  of  the  river.     But  owing  to  the  unusual 
demand  for  labor,  this  has  been  a  difficult  matter  the  present 
season.  ^ 

"This  boom  is  undoubtedly  the  most  complete  and  expensive 
n-ork  of  the  kind  in  the  northwest.     It  is  the  business  resort 
of  all  the  lumbermen  on  the  river,  and  those  who  wish  to  have 
any  transactions  with  them,  during  the  season  of  rafting  and 
1.  ..ung      It  is  to  them  precisely  what  'Change  is  to  the  mer- 
chants of  a  large  city    Mill  proprietors,  dealers,  pilots,  loggers, 
and  raftsmen,  here  do  congregate  daily,  to  talk  over  their 
affairs   and   transact   their    business.      If  you  wish,   at  this 
season,  to  see  a  man  residing  in  that  section  of  country,  you 
will  be  more  apt  to  find  him  at  the  boom,  some  day  durin;  die 
week,  than  at  home  or  anywhere  else.     Every  man's  logs  on 
the  river  are  compelled  to  pass  through  the  boom,  and  during 
the  process  they  are  assorted  and  rafted,  and  delivered  to  him  ' 
or  h.s  pilots  immediately  below.     So  much  per  thousand  i 
allowed  the  company  by  law  for  this  labor,  which,  by-the-by 
we  understand  has  never  yet   been  suflicient  to  pay.     It  is 
thought,  however  that  the  present  season  will  show  a  differen 
result,  owing  to  the  large  increase  of  business. 

"  It  is  a  curiosity  to  see  the  huge  size  of  some  of  the  rafts 
from  this  boom.     Two  noted  St.  Croix  pilots  pas.ed  St  1  wTt 
vith  a  fleet  of  three  million  feet  under  their  command      We 

or  tne  bt.  Croix  in  one  body. 

"  The  first  mill  reached  i„  descending  the  St.  Croix  from 

tlt7Li      ■■  "  "■^0»\-'■^•  »"  "-  Wisconsin  »ide.      Z 
»'ater  power  .3  a  eprmg  branch  from  the  neighborkg  bluffs, 


90 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   J4ESOUK0ES. 


ii'- 


Bimilnr  to  tlio  Marine  and  other  mills  beloAv  tl.e  falls,  and  is 
said  to  be  the  best  on  the  river.  This  mill  has  been  in 
operation  since  1845.     It  is  now  owned  and  managed  by  the  fl 

Messrs.  Kent,  Mr.  Mahoney,  who  had  been  identified  with  the  "! 

establishment  sinc^  its  inception,  having  retired  last  fall. 
With  proper  improvements,  Osceola  can  be  made  one  of  the 
most  extensive  manuffxcturing  establishments  on  the  river 

"Marine  Mills  is  next  in  order.  This  is  a  place  on  the  St. 
Lroix,  noted  for  its  extensive  manufacturing  facilities.  The 
Marine  Company  erected  last  season  an  extensive  now  mill, 
wmch  is  now  running.  There  is  sufficient  water  power  to  drive 
two  saws,  but  the  new  mill  has  been  erected  with  a  view  of  I 

using  steam  machinery.     It  speaks  well  for  the  prosperity  of  ' 

the  Marine  Company,  and  the  lumbering  business,  to  see  in 
operation  such  elegant  and  complete  mills  as  this.  The 
workmanship  and  machinery  are  not  excelled  by  any  in  the 
territory. 

"The  establishment  of  Mr.  Mower,  the  Areola,  is  six  miles 
above  Stillwater.  Here  has  also  been  erected,  within  the  past 
year,  a  new  mill,  which  is  operated  by  steam  — the  only  mill 
of  the  kind  as  yet  in  operation  on  the  St.  Croix.  Mr.  Mower 
also  continues  his  old  water-mill,  and  appears  to  be  driving 
an  extensive  business.  g 

"  Passing  on  to  the  upper  edge  of  Stillwater,  we  come  to  the  I 

ruins  of  the  extensive  steam-mill  of  Messrs.  Sawyer,  Heaton 
&  Setzer,  whicfi  was  destroyed  by  fire  a  few  months  since.  •  ^ 

But  the  deter-    .ed  proprietors  have  no  notion  of  giving  it  up  •  ' 

so.     We  noticed  men  at  work  removing  the  rubbish,  preparatory 
to  rebuilding.  "^ 

"  The  M'Kusick  mill,  at  Stillwater,  is  still  ripping  away  after 
the  old  fashion.  His  establishment  is  noted  for  the  excellent 
and  neat  manner  in  which  he  prepares  his  lumber  for  market 

"We  visited  the  new  steam-mill  below  Stillwater,  belonginff 
to  Messrs.  Churchill  &  Nelson,  Carlton,  Loomis,  and  others 
It  18  not  yet  quite  ready  for  motion,  but  will  start  off  full  rigged 
next  month.  If  we  are  any  judge  of  such  matters,  this  mill, 
in  many  respects,  '  takes  them  all'  It  has  the  same  power  as 
the  Oakes  establishment  of  St.  Paul,  and  will  drive  the  same 


I 


lis,  and  is 
s  been  in 
ed  by  the 
I  with  the 
last  fall, 
ne  of  the 
river. 
)n  the  St. 
es.     The 
now  mill, 
I*  to  drive 
I  view  of 
perlty  of 
io  see  in 
s.      The 
ly  in  the 

lix  miles 

the  past 

)nly  mill 

:.  Mower 

driving 

le  to  the 
Heaton 
IS  since, 
ng  it  up 
paratory 

ay  after 
xcellent 
market, 
'longing 
others. 
1 1'igged 
lis  mill, 
ower  as 
>e  same 


THE  ST.    CKOrX    PINEEIES,   ETC. 


91 


nmoiint  of  saws  and  machinery,  but  is  more  spacious,  conve- 
nient, and  eligibly  situated  ^br  doing  business.  The  engine 
was  built  in  Detroit.  ^ 

"  On  the  Minnesota  side  of  the  lake,  opposite  Hudson,  Mr.  M. 
Perrin  is  erecting  a  steam  saw-mill,  which  will  be  in  operation 
soon.      In  the  vicinity  of  Hudson  are  the  mills  of  Messrs 
Mears  and  Bowron.     Then  at  the  mouth   of  the  lake  is  the 
mill  of  Messrs.  Stevens  &  Co.    This  completes  the  list,  making 
when  Messrs.  Sawyer,  Heaton  &  Setzer's  new  establishment 
is  completed,  eleven  mills  in  the  valley,  with,  in  the  aggregate 
over  twenty  upright  saws,  and  the  usual  amount  of  circulars 
attached.     This  amount  of  machinery  should  be  able  to  cut 
two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  feet  of  lumber  every  twenty- 
four  hours- worth,  in  the  St.  Louis  market,  fourteen  dollars  per 
thousand.     We  think  we  have  heard  it  remarked  that  Minne- 
sota has  no  resources  ! 

"  While  people  are  going  crazy  about  the  valley  of  the  Min- 
nesota and  other  portions  west  of  the  Mississippi,  they  should 
recollect  there  are  old  locations  worth  looking  at,  with  a  high 
market  at  the  door  of  every  farmer  for  the  next  hundred  years 
or  as  long  as  the  pineries  last.     Going  by  land  from  Stillwater 
to  1  aylor  s  Falls,  you  pass  over  the  same  character  of  country 
as    les  between  St.  Paul  and   Stillwater,  with  the  exception 
that  the  land  is  of  a  much  better  quality  generally.     West 
of  the  road  lies  Cornelian  lake,  a  large  and  beautiful  sheet  of 
water.     Immediately  back  of  Marine  is  another  large  lake. 
Marine  is  situated  upon  the  line  of  the  open  and  timber  coun- 
try.    Immediately  north  of  that  point  commences  the  heavy 
hard    wood'  growth,  consisting  of   oak  of  the  largest  size, 

wflmit"&c       Tb  "'  P-^.--^'^^--fc-«  -od,   afh,  whit 
walnut,  &c.      Ihis  extensive  forest  runs  north  some  thirty 
miles  to  the  mouth  of  Sunrise  river.     The  heavy  timber  con 
nnies  the  whole  distance,  the  western  border  iingwill 
twen  y  miles   of   St.  Paul.     The  land  is  of  the  very  be 
qua  ity  rolling  but  not  broken,  and  the  heavy  timber  so^hick 
timll  VT'    1   )'  '""  '""  ''^'''^y  ''""'^  '^'^  ^^^"^d.     The 
and  around  Lake  Chisago,  is  precisely  similar  to  what  we  see 


92 

about  Lake  M 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    RICSOUJJCRS. 


of  coast. 


nctonka.     Lake  01,i,sa-o  lias  ahout  forty  miles 
Around   its  Bliorcs  are  settled   several  families  of 


bwc.ies,  who  arc  beginning  to  farm  in  a  small  Avay.     There  is 
also  a  settlement  of  these  people  in  the  vicinity  of  Marine 

"  Sunnso  river,  or  creek,  takes  its  rise  about  four  miles  north 
and  SIX  miles  west  of  Marine,  and  about  six  n,iles  north,  bear- 
ing east,  of  White  Bear  lake.     It  runs  in  a  northerly  direction, 
and  empt.es  itself  into  the  St.  Croix  sixteen  miles  above  Tay- 
lor  8  falls.      The  valley  of  this  stream  is  unsurpassed  as  an 
ngncultural    co.mtry.      But  very  little  land    along  it  is   yet 
taken  up.  which  is  also  the  case  with  the  entire  timber  country 
we  have  spoken  of  east  of  it.     It  is  proper  also  to  mention, 
that  the  source  of  Sunrise  is   in  the  same  township  as  that 
of  K.ce  creek    a  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  sixteen  miles 
above  St  Paul.     Toward  the  mouth  of  Sunrise,  nortlnvest  of 
1  aylor  s  falls  and  traversing  the  banks  of  the  stream,  is  one 
of    he  most  fertile  and  beautiful  of  prairies,  extending  eight 
or  ten  m.les  north  and  south,  and  from  two  to  three  east^Tnd 
west       Only   about   two  sections  of   this    delightful  farming 
paradise  is  yet  claimed.     What  renders  this  tract  so  very  val 
uable  IS.  that  it  is  immedately  adjacent  to  the  immense  hard- 
Tow  llT-  ''""*'7  ^«  ^''-^^^  '-^""^^d  to.  and  close  on  up 
oward  the  pme  region.     It  has  been  heretofore  supposed  tha^ 
the  country  northeast  of  us  is  an  impassable  region         ake 
and  swamps.     The  facts  are  just  as  we  have  stnL,  althoul 
^.s  true  the  country  is  exceedingly  well-watered  with  spr  n. 
blanches  and  clear  lakes.     A  very  large  proportion  of  thes^ 
lands  are  marked  'number  one'  in  the  field  notes  of  the  ^r 

'« As  has  been  published  to  the  world  a  thousand  times,  this  is 
the  most  northern  point  of  continuous  steamboat  navigat  on 
ft;om  below  on  the  water  of  the  Mississippi,  or  its  tribuf  Is 
Ihe  celebrated  falls  of  St.  Croix  are  hilf  a  mile  abov^  but 
Ooats  can  not  ascend  over  Taylor's  falls;  althongh  th  L  ;  o 
precipitous  fa  1  at  the  latter  place,  only  s.ifU-apids  T L 
scenery  and  character  of  this  bold  and  romantic  loca  ty  has 


forty  iniloa 
fainili(\s  of 
I'licre  16 
Tariuo. 
miles  nortli 
ortli,  liofir- 
■  direction, 
bovo  T<ay- 
ised  as  an 

it  is  yet 
er  country 
•  Tnention, 
ip  as  that 
poii  miles 
'tlnvest  of 
im,  is  one 
iiig  oigLt 

east  and 
1  farming 
very  val- 
fise  hard- 
se  on  up 
osed  that 

of  lakes 
although 
th  spring 

of  these 

the  sur- 
'rc  is  no 

immedi- 

3s,tliis  is 
ivigation 
butaries. 
'ove,  but 
re  is  no 
s.  The 
lity  has 


TJIK    8T.    Ci:(JIX    I'lNEIilliS,    ETC.  93 

Mrs  n*.'  X  ^  V"  ^'^i^^'^'^^^y  «'-!  truly  delineated  in 
M.S.  I  llets  'feummer  Rambles  in  the  West,'  to  which  we  in- 
v.e  the  attention  of  tlu.se  of  our  readers  who  hlv  neve, 
V  sued  t  ,s  noted  spot.     8ufllce  it  to  say,  that  those  who  visi 

IJelles,    /laylor's    Falls.'  and   the    'Falls    of   St.    Croix' 
leave  out  of  the  note-book  of  their  observations  a  section  of 

mt    '"r"^,^'^' ^' ''''''''  ^^'"^  ^^"-  times  the  di^! 
tance  to  behold.     There  is  nothing  like  it  anywhere  else  in 

t  MS  part  of  the  world.     No  conception  can  be  formed  of  the 

ch..-acu,r  of  ,ts  boldness  and  grandeur  by  viewing  the  fa 

of  fet.  Anthony      It  is  altogether  a  piece  of  architecture  and 

orknmnsh.p  of  an  entirely  different  style,  as  much  so  as  a 

Conntluan  palace  is  different  from  a  Gothic  cathedral. 

logion.  Ihe  dark  green  trap  rock-known  by  the  common 
name  of  'green  stone'-sinular  in  texture  and  generd  Z 
pcarance  to  the  more  grayish  copper-bearing  rock  of  Lke 
Superior,  .s  tlu.wn  up  here  in  immense  massed,  lying  all  over 
surface  so  tluck  that  a  team  can  not  be  driven  ov'er  it  .Jth 
the  iL  "l'^^.«'?;-'g  17-ss  has  only  been  carried  on  in 

the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  tails.     Half  a  mile  back  on  tl^ 
Minnesota  side  itentirely  disappears.     This  is  al  o  a  copp 
bearing  rock  and  it  is  not  uncon.mon  to  find  large  boulders  of 
pure  copper  in  excavating  wells  and  cellars.     We  W  one 

ot  la^lm  s  lalls  a  few  weeks  since,  which  weighs  about  one 
pound,  and  is  over  ninety  per  cent,  of  pure  copper.     Th  re   ! 

Tnt  buf  :t  T  ""'^^  '^''''  '^  I-ge^uantit-^s  in  this  t  ap 
lange ,  but  at  the  present  time  the  citizens  of  the  Falls  have  I 

:;;r;„::::;:f ""'  -  --"  ^--^'^"^  --^-^^  '■'-f's;;- 

"Taylort  Falls  is  really  one  of  the  oldest  places  in  Min 
"osota    although  the  neat  and  pleasant  village  of  ttoy  or" 
forty    houses-all  tastefully    huilt   and   cleanly  pointed  1 
wb.ch  one  sees  there  now,  ha,  sprung  into  exisLfe  dt Ig 


94 


MINNKBOTA    ANU    US    ItKSOUUOKS. 


tlio  pnflt  two  yoixYH.      Tlio  'claim'  in)oti  which  this  tl 


.;) 


hriving 
vill;i}^'(>  Ktmids,  was  mado  hy  Johho  Taylor,  Ksq.,  a  well-known 
oitizoii  of  Stillwater,     lie  afterward  entered  into  partnership 
with    Mr.  linker,  an  Indian   trader,  retnenihered  hy  all   our 
older  Hcttlers  as  the  gentleman  who  huilt  the  large  stone  house 
on  the  Mississippi,  ahovo  Fort  Snelling,  now  owned  hy  Ken 
neth   M'Kenzie,  Esq.,  of  St.  Louis.     Messrs.  Baker,  Taylor, 
and  others,  proceeded  here  lo  erect  the  first  mill  ever  com- 
menced on  the  St.  Croix.     INIr.  Baker  died  before  it  Avas  com- 
]dotod,  and  the  frame  Avas  afterward  removed  to  Osceola,  six 
miles  below  on  the  Wisconsin  side,  where  it  was  re-erected  and 
still  stands,  doing  good  service  for  its  present  owners.     Jesse 
Taylor  subsequently  sold  his  claim  to  Jo.shua  L.  Taylor,  the 
gentleman  first  appointed  marshal  of  Minnesota,  by  President 
'i'aylor,  in   1849,  who  still  owns  a  portion  of  the  old  claim. 
Another  of  the  Taylor  family  a  brother  of  J.  L.,  and  a  well- 
known  and  influential  citizen  of  the  St.  Croix  Valley,  in  part- 
nership with  Mr.  Fox,  at  this  time  carries  on  trade  in  the  old 
'  claim   cabin'  erected  by  Jesse  in  1837  ;  so  it  will  be  seen 
there  is  no  sense  in  calling  the  place  anything  else  than  Tay- 
lor's Falls.     Mr.  W.  H.  C.  Folsom  holds  forth  on  the  opposite 

corner  in  the  same  bx.siness — that  of  general  merchandise 

which  two  establishments  complete  the  stock  of  mercantile 
transactions  at  Taylor's  Falls.  He  is  engaged  in  a  very  ex- 
tensive trade  with  the  lumbermen,  and  is  one  of  the  master 
spirits  of  the  Upper  St.  Croix. 

"  There  is  no  mistaking  the  fact,  that  Taylor's  Falls  5s  al- 
ready a  place  —  quite  a  place — and  is  boinid  to  be  a  still 
greater  one.  There  are  two  good  "hotels  already  finished  ; 
and  the  one  at  Avhich  we  stopped,  the  Chisago  house,  is  better 
furnisheil,  and  as  well  kept  —  barring  the  inconvenience  of 
having  no  meat  and  vegetable  market  at  hand  —  as  any  house 
in  St.  Faul,  St.  Anthony,  or  Stillwater.  Some  of  the  finest 
trout  and  otJicr  fishing,  as  well  as  hunting,  to  be  found  in  this 
northwestern  region,  is  about  these  falls.  A  great  many  im- 
provements in  the  w\iy  of  building,  are  in  progress  at  Taylor's 
Falls,  with  men  at  the  helm,  such  as  we  might  name  as  lead- 
ing citizens  of  the  place  —  situated  so  as  to  command  the  trade 


i 


INi:ilIK8,    ETC. 


his  tliriving 
well-known 
pnrtnership 

by  nil  our 
stone  liouso 
led  hy  ICen 
ter,  Taylor, 
1-  ever  corn- 
it  wns  com- 
Oseoola,  six 
erected  and 
lers,  Jesse 
Taylor,  the 
Y  President 

old  claim, 
and  a  well- 
ey,  in  part- 
}  in  the  old 
ill  be  seen 

than  Tay- 
he  opposite 
^handise  — 
mercantile 

a  very  ex- 
the  master 

Falls  is  al- 

be  a  still 

''  finished  ; 

se,  is  better 

cnience  of 

any  house 

the  finest 

Lind  in  this 

many  im- 

it  Taylor's 

le  as lead- 

l  the  trade 


95 


i 


of  tlic  increasiner  lumb 


extreme  head  of  navii''at 


TlIE   ST.    UKOIX 

region  to  the  north  — being  at  the 


en 


gallon,  and  with  an 


conn 
Falls. 


try  back,  there  can  be  no  retrograde 


un 


equalled  farming 


movement  to  Taylor's 

"Lest  we  n.ight  excite  feelings  in  the  minds  of  some  that 
would  afterward  be  doomed  to  disaj.pointn.ents,  we  will  state 
the  fact  that  no  lots  arc  for  sale  at  Taylor's  l\\h,  except  to 
those  who  wish  to  build.  The  proprietors  have  determined 
the  property  shall  not  fall  into  the  hands  of  speculators  who 
will  let  It  remain  idle, 

••  The  evening  we  arrived  was  that  of  the  first  day  of  court, 
being  the  first  court  held  by  his  honor  Chief-Justice  Welch 
since  his  appointment  to  the  bench.     Chisago  is  a  new  county,' 
containing,  comparatively,  not  a  great  number  of  inhabitants, 
and  those  neighborly   and  peaceably  disposed   toward   each 
other,     feo  there  was  not  much  business  on  the  docket,  and 
rather  dry  picking  for  the  eight  or  ton  lawyers  present.     Per- 
haps they  didn't  appear  therefor  the  purposes  of  legitimate 
practice.    Lawyers  ccill  be  found  hovering  about  county  courts, 
whether  they  have  business  or  not,  particularly  when  impor- 
tant  election  days  are  approaching. 

"The  old  milling  site  of  St.  Croix  Falls,  which  it  would  take 
all  the  courts  in  Christendom,  and  all  the  Philadelphia  law- 
yers with  their  number  multiplied  by  ten  thousand,  to  decide 
to  whom  It  rightfully  belongs,  is  now  wearing  greater  signs  of 
active  prosperity,  than  it  has  since  the  famous  '  Boston  com- 
pany  laid  the  withering  curse  of  their  bauds  upon  it      It  al- 
ways  appeared  to  us  a  burning  shame,  and  a  disgrace  to  the 
country   that  so  great  and  glorious  a  water  privilege,  planted 
by  the  hand  of  Nature  directly  within  striking  dist.rn;i  of  one 
of  the  most  inexhaustible  pine  regions  in  the  world,  should  be 
suffered  to  lay  waste  from  year  to  year,  or  bo  used  at  ruinous 
sacrifices  to  every  man  who  touched  it.     These  results  have 
not  been  from  natural  causes,  but  from  man's  selfishness  and 
cupidity,  and  a  desire  to  override  and  crush  his  fellow-man. 
We  do  not  wish  to  be  understood  as  giving  any  opinion  as  to 
which  of  tne  parties  litigant  are  in  the  right;  but  certain  it  is. 
Mr.  Hungerford.  who  now  has  possession,  is  making  the  Falls 


V6 


MINNKHOTA    AND    ri>s    KKHOURCKa. 


lliaii  St,  ('rriix  Falls.  VViscoiism 

...■o'v!',!'  H,'i'  '","  ^"''"r"'"  '•''"""•■>'  "=""■■'  «''""''l  "--"tu^Iiy 

in  »o,n„  K^t  „',',?,  "r  ;"""?""  "■""■>-l>""or  will  „„,u 

ouii;  re  I,.,  r;;/::':™^'- ;"•'■ ',""  ""•"'™'''°  c^iob 
.to: ",':!:;"' ';"'  "•" "  """■  ''^■■'"  ^'"" « "™"  -f 


MINNKSOT.*    RIVHR,    UNDINE   UKiJK.N,    ET(I. 


»7 


s  for  yenrn. 
P  l»\i\t  win- 
lit,  nmniiig 
^S8  to  Rfnrt. 
"Mrc;  and 
'<>  no  nioi-o 
Wisconsin 

PVCnfu.'ilJy 

liicli  form 
loubtftil  — 
'vill  resnli 
I*  or  mem- 

ntost,  cnr- 
>Io  Caleb 
erford  on 
ntl  value, 
se.     The 
flam,  and 
lis.     The 
'1'  of  c^t- 
noss  was 
now  that 
k1  eiiter- 
'iness  on 
i^igns  of 
lie  river 


CKAPTKR  VI. 

THE     MINNESOTA    llIVEtt    COUNTRY  — THE    UNDINE     HEOION     OP 

NICOLLET— COAL  — EARLY    EXPLORATIONS  — VALLEY  T0WN8 
ETC. 

With  the  exception  of  the  "  Bijr  Woods,"  the  whole  cuiiitiy 
may  be  considered  as  prairie,  tho  streams  only  boing  skirted 
with  wood.  On  the  wbo.o  there  is  a  want  of  tindjer  for  onli- 
nary  farming  purposes  -.a  thickly-inliabited  district;  but  if 
the  growth  of  timber  be  encouraged,  as  the  population  grad- 
ually increases,  a  deficiency  may  never  be  experienced. 

Throughout  the  greater  part  of  this  region,  the  traveller  is 
Burprised  and  charmed  with  the  everchanging  variety  and 
beauty  of  the  scenery. 

The  alluvial  laud  bordering  upon  the  river,  varies  in  width 
Irom  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  or  more.  The  greater  por- 
tion of  this  coiistitutes  numerous  natural  meadows,  covered 
annually  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass.  A  small  proportion 
of  these  alluvial  lands  is  covered  with  ash,  elm,  sugar  and 
whiie  maple,  butternut,  white  wj^luut,  lime,  linden,  box  elder, 
cottim-wood  and  hickory.  A  considerable  portion  of  'these 
flats,  being  subject  to  annual  overflow,  are  wet  and  marshy. 

A  remarkable  feature  of  this  country  consists  in  the  small 
lal'cs  and  ponds  scattered  over  it  Many  of  these  are  beautiful 
aheets  of  water,  having  the  appearance  of  artificial  basins, 
which  greatly  enhance  the  beauty  of  the  country,  especially 
when  skirted,  as  they  sometimes  are,  by  groves  of  trees,  and 
frequented  by  water  fowl,  which  tend  to  animate  and  relievo 
the  otherwise  almgst  deathlike  silence  which  so  pervades  the 
prairie. 

^  For  about  fifty  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Missis- 
sippi, the  Minnesota  has  a  sluggish   current,  and   Is  slightly 


98 


MhVNKSOTA    AND    I'l-s    KKSoUKCES. 


wMtKs].--honcc  the  Dakota  iVame  of  "Minnesota"  or  water 
"  tintorl  like  llio  sky." 

of  the  Mankato    or  Blue  Earth  river,  and  other  trihutaries  of 
he    u,,pcr    Minnesota.       Pieces    of    lignite    have    been    found 
from   time  to  time,  though  not  in  such  abundance,  nor  are  the 
indications  at  any  point  so  strongly  marked  as  to  induce  us  to 
believe  that  any  very  extensive  beds  will  be  found  in  those 
localities.     David  Dale  Owen,  United  States  geologist,  in  his 
report  of  a  geological  survey  of  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  Minne- 
sota,  in  IS  l8-'9,  says  :-"  On  the  Mankato,  and  its  branches, 
several  pieces  of  lignite  were  picked  up  from  the  beds  and 
banks  of  the  streams.     Some  of  this  lignite  approaches  in  its 
character  to  Cannel  coal;  but  most  of  it  has  a  brown  color, 
and  exhibits  distinctly  the  ligneous  fibre,  and  other  structure 
of  the  wood  from  which  it  has  been  derived.     Diligent  search 
was  made  to  endeavor  to  trace  this  mineralized  wood  to  its 
source,  and  discover  the  beds  where  report  had  located  an 
extensive  and  valuable  coal  field.     At  one  point,  a  fragment 
was  found  seventy  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  projecting 
from  the  drift ;  but  no  regular  bed  could  be  detected  anywhere 
even  in  places  where  sections  of  the  drift  were  exposed  down 
to  the  magnesian  lime  stone.     The  conclusion  at  which  those 
who  were  ..ppointed  to  investigate  the  matter  arrivM  was 
that  the  pieces  occasionally  found  throughout  the  Minnesota 
country,  are  only  isolated  fragments  disseminated  in  the  drift 
but  that  no  regular  bed  exists  within  the  limits  of  the  district  " 
As  regards   salubrity,  soil,   timber,  and   water,     I    doubt 
whether  any  portion  of  the  west  presents  greater  inducements 
for  immigration  than  the  charming  valley  of  the  Minnesota 
river.     Ihe  eye  is  delighted  with  a  succession  of  rural  land- 
scapes  of  unsurpassed  and  varied  beauty.     The  scenery  is  not 
bold  and  craggy  like  that  of  the  Mississippi,  and  upper  St. 
Oroix,  but  picturesque,  and   homelike.     The  wide-spreading 
prairies,  studded  with  oak  groves,  terminatiifg  in  sloping  banks 
and  fringed  with  meadows,  which  bound  the  right  bank  of  the 
Minnesota  at  its  entrance  ;  and  the  rolling  prairies  which  make 
a  gentle  declivity  down  to  the  winding  stream  on  the  left 


MINNESOTA    RIVEU,    UNDINE    REGION,    ,,tc.  99 

excite,   upon  first  entcrinff  tlio  moutii  of  f1.»  Tvr 

expression  of  adn^iration  fVom  cvr'  rs  n        '  r;.;.'?''''  'T 
tivfitpd    foc+r.       TT  ,       '  *' V  r^i8<'H  ot  natural  or  cul- 

l,oif  ^M       .J'*""^  ^^e  generally  from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  » 
.ivo"    n  „,;  „;  ,     '»P"g.-apI.y  of  tl,c  v.Ilcy  as  seen  from  the 

to  the  river  led       Tinf   r^n       •^."^''^^  *""'^«'i  grownig  down 

^^•a.c,  or  great  todftho^'T  f '''^''  *''^'"'^''  *^^«   ^^'^ 
iu  full  view      or  &^-^«"  banks  and  rolling  prairies  are 

a  back" old?;     ^^■^^«^^««,^"^bling  cultivated  orchards,  and 
a  back  giound  of  apparently  dense  timber,  complete  the  beautv 

bc..r„,  sues  f„.  fL-J:  »"*:;  :iei?rT,:\\^^^^^ 

tae  valley  a  refined  t.aste  in  rural  architecture.  Although 
there  ,s  s.m.lanty  there  is  nothing  monotonous  in  the  d  orama 
wh,ch  feasts,  but  does  not  pall,  the  sight  of  the  voyageur  Z 
a  spot  but  seems  to  await  with  impatience  the  adoSg  lid 
of  c.vh^ation;  not  «n  acre  but  appears  ready  for  the  axe  the 
plough,  or  the  scythe.  It  is  a  common  remark  thathtll 
country  looks  as  if  it  had  been  suddenly  deserted  hv'  v  a 
people-the  fences  and  buildings  removed  ™dL  I. 
left  standing.  °    removed,  and  the  orchards 

Farms  can  be  made  in  this  valley  at  a  trifling  expense  •  na 
ture  has  almost  finished  the  work.  i-^pense ,  na- 

There  are  many  beautiful  town  sites  along  the  river     Shaloree 

cooked  "^"'"'-f'""'  ^'^'y'"  eighty  yards  wide,  and  very 

There  is  plenty  of  hard-wood  timber  on  the  river  sufficient 
to  supply  the  country  below.  It  ™n.i...  -f  w'  J  « 
".pie,  oak,  ash,  eta,  white  and  black  wainutf hiek^te^! 


}       i 


hi    .<: 


i 


II 


'  'f! 


i 


i 


li: 


1-i 


100 


iMINNKSO'l'A    AND    ITS    IJKSorKClCS. 


c.ttonwood,  &c.  For  tl.e  distance  of  tluify-six  mlleH,  the 
nver  wi.uls  tlnougli  tlio  Bm.s  Franc,  u  tlouHo  forest  wliich 
cosseH  tl.e  river,  and  is  fn.ni  fifteen  to  lorty  miles  wide,  and 
one  liiindred  long. 

In  a  few  years,  railroad  trains  will  be  running  with  freight 
irid  passengers  between  the  bustling  city  of  St.  Paul  and  the 
thriving  i<.\vns  and  settlements  of  the  Minnesota  river— but 
that  is  looking  to  the  future.  For  the  present  and  the  next 
<"">r  or  live  years,  there  will  be  sites  for  farms,  as  cheap  — as 
good  land  — as  healthy,  and  nearer  to  markets  — convenient 
to  the  great  ]\1  ississippi  above  and  below  the  falls,  where  sa- 
gaeious  farmers  will  locate  and  improve  in  preference  to  going 
farther  olf,  for  the  mere  gratilication  of  fancy. 

In  pointing  out  tlie  most  favored  portions  of  otir  territory 
for  agricultural  settlements  we  are  guided  more  by  the  travels 
of  scientific  and  experienced  men  than  by  practical  knowledge. 
J'.xcepdng  the  f-rmingdone  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  there 
has  been  Imt  little  laud  broken  in  the  territory.  The  strip  of 
land  lying  In-tween  the  St.  Croix  and  the  Mississippi,  while  it 
proves  abnndanlly  productive  of  leguminous  plants,  grass,  oats, 
iVc.does  n,.t  ai)pear  so  well  adapted  in  body  and  depth  of  soil 
ior  the  more  weighty  cereals,  as  the  lands  to  the  southwest  of 
the  Mississippi,  toward  the  sources  of  the  Cannon.  Vermillion, 
and  Bluc-Karth  rivers. 

Seventy  nine  years  before  the  survey  of  Nicollet,  the  coun- 
try was  explored   by   the  English  traveller  Carver,  in   1766 
He   records,  as   follows :    "  The   river   St.   Peter,   which   runs* 
through  the  territories  of  the  Naudowessies,  flows  through  a 
most  dcdighlln!  country,  abounding  with  all  the  necessaries  of 
life,  that  grow  spontaneously;    and  with  a  little  cultivation  it 
inigiit  be  made  to  produce  even  the  luxuries  of  life.     Wild 
nee  grows  here  in  great  abundance ;  and  every  part  is  filled 
with  trees  bending  under  their  loads  of  fruits,  such  as  plums, 
grapes,  and  apples;  the  meadows  are  covered  with  hops  and 
many  sorts  .,f  vegetables  ;  while  the  ground  is  stored  with  use- 
tul  roots  — with  angelica,  spikenard,  and  ground-nuts  as  large 
us  hens  eggs.     At  a  little  distance  from  the  river  me   enti 
nences.  from  whirl,  you  have  views  that  can  not  be  exceeded 


MmNKboTA    U.VKli,    .nimN,.;    keoKUV,    ETC. 


101 


even  by  tl»c  most  l,c;uiti/iil  (,r  tl,„sc  I  1, 
Amidst  thcsn  arc  (loll^'IitAil 
ties  of  mnplcfl,  tliat  tl 


ave  already  described 


groves,  and  sucli  amaz 


iiifr 


escri 

„  quanti- 

nn,l  „1,„  w,th  „  blue  cl„y,  ,v,,ii,,  „.„4  „,„  !„,]„  ,    for  "  "  ! 
rins  m.,eungo,  «.ill  ,„„lo„l„„lI^  „„„,„,  ,,,       ,,„;/""• 

...c  .net  .b..ec  ,0..,  .v4'  i^i^^of  "^IIIXZ^,,:^;:.:;" 
Tod '.btT    '  """■'■  "•■  ''  ""■■'•'"'»"'•  "'"'•  "ke  "  re X 

9.  W.  rcntI,omfo„l„u,Bl,,  F.  U.  S.,  „«cc,„le,l  tl.o  St  Teter's 
on  an  cxplonng  to„r  in  1835.     I„  ,,,«  work  I,c  say      -fT  ,' 
channel  [at  tl,c  con.lucnec  „f  tl,,,  Jfanknto  with  the  ft  I'etev'  I 
.  one  hnndred  yanle  »i,,o,  „,„,  „,„  eonnfy  ext  leK  Ct 
lul ;  the  prairic  occas onallv  cominf^  rlnw«  f^  .1  .    ^eauti- 

while  at  other  time.  l,oM  li  ■„   ^  ^„t-  I    ^^  tit;   i^^"" 
interspersed  with  graceful  dun,,,,  „/,;;,!'  " ^"■"'°°''^''  «'"?-' 

"About  half-past  five,  P.  M    I  In.wln.i  f.     .i 
of  the  loveliest  encan,„„entf     ,  d  'l^It     u,,"'^  l'  ""  ?"« 
slopes,  with  pretty  dells  intersecting  (Cn      ..df  d  w,'  ^T'"^ 

lowed  by  M.  Nicollet  "  s«    \v,,  .t'  1"  °"'"i  '",  ''=^''  ''"'- 
>ontly  s„  closely  „p„„  poetic  exalgtf  Z^?!'^''  ^^^ 

considering  thc.r  entire  disinterest  I  :"; 'the  in  -°  -^'^ 

atrang-er  Avho  ha^i  nnf  ,.;.:♦   i  .i      '     ^^  '"  ^"^  matiur  mat  a 

gei  has  not  M.,ted  (he  country  will  be  disposed  to 


I 


I    1 


I'  ■ 
iil 


4.: 


102 


MINNKSOTA     AND    ITM    Ui;S()rU<M';S. 


givo  full  crodciico  to  wliat  tlicy  conjointly  record.  Carver 
was  a  very  close,  and  practical  observer,  and  made  strenuous 
effortH  to  secure  the  country  to  himself  and  lieirs,  by  a  pre- 
tended or  real  grant  from  the  Indians.  Nicollet,  as  an  engi- 
neer, is  eminently  scientific  and  practical.  Fcatherstonhaugh, 
a  distingninlied  geologist,  while  ho  surveyed  the  rocky  strata 
with  Hcientilic  earnestness,  indulged  his  poetic  fancy  in  admi- 
ring the  [.icturesque  landscapes  —  the  wide-spread  lawns,  rol- 
ling waters,  rocks,  dells,  and  grottoes,  fringed  with  trees  —  so 
graceriilly  formed  and  disposed,  as  if  directed  by  the  highest 
artistic  skill.  He  evidently  left  the  country,  then  an  uninhab- 
ited wilderness,  with  feelings  of  regret.  He  longed  for  a  splen- 
did private  estate  that  could  be  contrived  out  of  so  beautiful  a 
t.'rritory  — a  mansion  with  a  rolling  lawn  sweeping  down  to 
the  river  in  front;  on  either  side  thousands  of  acres  of  level, 
fertile  land,  wifh  a  prairie  in  the  rear  abounding  with  grouse. 

About  four  years  since,  the  Indian  title  to  the  lands  west  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  in  Minnesota,  was  extinguished.     Two  years  ago, 
those  same  Inu.ans  were  removed,  and  shut  up  in  the  wilderness 
behind  the  now  fort,  which  had  just  been  constructed.    In  anticipa- 
tion,  however,  of  the  tardy  movements   of  the   government,  and 
before  the  savage  occupants  had  left,  or  any  steps   beea    taken 
to    bring    the    land    into    market,    the    restless    surge    of    im- 
migration   was   flowing    rapidly  onward,   inundating    the    entire 
country.     Already  every  eligible  site  for  a  town  upon  the  Mis- 
sissippi, from  the  Iowa  line  to  St.  Anthony,  is  claimed,  and 
improvements  in  rajud  progress.     Nor  is  the  condition  of  the 
Minnesota  essenlially  different.     Perhaps  the  enterprising  as- 
pirants here  even  excel  the  ]\Iississippians.     The  Minnesota 
penetrates  the  very  heart  of  the  new  purchase,  and  is  naviga- 
ble as  long  as  the  ]\Iississipj)i  remains  oj^en  in  the  fall.     The 
eye  of  practical  sagacity  h.'.s  already  discovered  to  thousands 
the  inestimable  value  of  this  country  and  its  river-towns 

Ascending  tlie  Minnesota  for  three  hundred  miles,  thence 
projecting  a  lin.-  south  to  the  loAva  boundary,  following  this 
east  to  the  Mississij)pi,  thence  up  the  river  to  the  starting- 
point,  wo  enclose  a  tract  of  immense  size  probably  unequalled 
ui  agricultural  value,  all  things  considered,  by  any  public  lands 


MINNK80TA    lUVKK,    UNI^INK   EKOION,    KTC.  103 

^^ow  held  by  the   governn,ent.     Two  .ides  of  this  beautiful 

.,_nmnenms  smaller  rivers  and  streams  course  throudi  t^e 

w  rrt  "f  ''""?"^*  -^t^r-,o.e.,  while  lakes  c!!  r    1 
watci  are  dotted  over  the  surface,  as  though  Nature,  in  a  mo 

r  fw7o7  rYr  '''  '^'--''''  to  makeThrsThe" 
most  tavoied  of  all  pastoral  countries. 

O    the  fertility  and  productiveness  of  the  soil,  it  is  now  su- 
p.  r^uous  to  speak;  and  it  is  also  generally  wel    known  Tha 
w  ule    here  .  an  abundance  of  opL  land'for  farming  or  gra-' 
-^n.g.  there  ,s  an  ample  supply  of  heavy  timber  for  all  needful 
1-pose.     So  some  of  the  advantages 'possessed  by  "rcout 

1.  A  most  congenial  and  salutary  climate. 

<J.  f  ertil^  and  productive  soil. 

3.  Open  prairies,  interspersed  with  belts  of  heavy  timber 

busniess-the  number  of  steamers  increasing  yearly 

G.  A  dn-ect  steam  communication  with  the  ^reat  markpf« 
and  railroads  of  the  south.  ^  markets 

Jocate  upon   t ;  nor  will  any  tax,  or  even  the  minimum  p-ov 
cnnnen    price,  be  demanded  till  the  survey  is  complet^HvE 
may  not  be  for  two  or  three  years. 

8.  The  towns  on  the  Mississippi,  Red-Wing  at  the  south 
e.  Ige  of  the  Undine  region,  St.  Paul  at  the  centrfl  edg^.l^St 
Anthony  above    are  ready  to   supply  all  the   want     of  tt 
iamo.  and  purchase  his  surplus  provisions  in  return. 

J.   Ihe  country  is  generally  level,  the  soil   a  decomnosed 
nould,  easily  worked,  and  in  its  natural  state  cove  ed"'  ha 

10.  From  experience,  we  know  that  all  the  grains  of  the 


r 


^.j 


■  r 


104 


MINNKSO'I'A    AMJ    ITS    UKSOlKC'KS. 


I 


uiuldlo,  states  thrivo  hero  to  tlic  greatest  perfoction,  aiitl  the 
snperloriiy  of  leguminous  plants  is  a  matter  of  common  con- 
sent. 

11.  In  the  vicinity  of  Mankato  city,  Lriek-clay  of  a  very 
fine  quality  is  found  in  abundance,  while  quarries  of  building- 
stono  are  found  along  the  rivers  and  streams  in  many  different 
localities. 

The  above  statements  are  so  fully  endorsed,  that  the  writer 
lias  no  apprehensions  of  being  charged  with  drawing  upon  Lis 
own  fancy.  U.  Nicollet,  in  his  report  of  the  "  Ilydrographic 
Basin  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,"  says  : — 

"  I  shall  now  proceed  to  give  a  short  account  of  some  of  the 
regions  of  country  adjoining  the  Cofcmi  des  Prairies.  Among 
these,  that  which  appeared  to  mo  the  most  favorable,  is  the 
one  watered  by  the  '  Bold  Mankato'  or  Blue-Earth  river,  and 
to  which  1  have  given  the  name  of  '  Undine  Region.' 

"  The  great  number  of  navigable  tributaries  of  the  Mankato, 
spreading  themselves  out  in  the  shape  of  a  fan ;  the  group  of 
lakes,  surrounded  by  well-wooded  hills ;  some  wide-spreading 
prairies  with  a  fertile  soil ;  others  apparently  less  favored,  but 
open  to  improvement  —  the  whole  together  bestow  upon  this 
region  a  most  picturesque  appcarrnce.  It  was  while  on  a  visit 
to  the  beautiful  lakes  Ohamunpiilavi  and  Tdtanhassan  that  it 
occurred  to  me  to  give  the  name  I  have  adopted,  derived  from 
an  interesting  and  romantic  German  tale." 


Mi 

Mi 


THE   VALLEY    TOWNS. 

In  noticing  the  Valley  Towns,  my  mind  goes  back  to  a  lovely 
summer's  morning  in  1850,  when  one  of  a  pleasant  party,  nuuibcr- 
ing  over  100  of  St.  Paul's  earliest  citizens,  we  hastened  on  board 
the  steamboat  Yankee,  all  bound  on  an  exploring  tour  up  the  St. 
Peter's  or  IMinnesota  river. 

I  think  over  the  incidents  and  excitements  of  that  celebrated 
voyage,  as  day  after  day  we  ascended  the  swollen  and  turbid  waters 
of  the  St.  Peter's.  I  glance  rapidly  over  Minnesota's  eventful 
history  since  that  day,  I  look  in  imagination  at  the  Valley  as  it  now 


,  and  the 
mou  con- 

>f  a  very 

buikling- 

differeut 

lie  writer 
upon  Lis 
ogr.apliic 

ne  of  the 

Among 

le,  is  the 

iver,  and 

lankato, 
group  of 
preading 
>red,  but 
pon  this 
n  a  visit 
71  that  it 
-ed  from 


a  lovely 
numbcr- 
)u  board 

the  St. 

ilebrated 
d  waters 
eventful 
LS  it  now 


MINNESOTA   IlIVEK,    „NmNE   HEOION,    ETC.  .flB 

Ihavc  not  .Led  Salt 'van  W-irT"™  "''^''  "■" 
year,,  and  that  this  h  not  th/.w   X""  ^^'"''l"  »l«p  of  a  hundred 

famiilar  nineteenth!  S,Z,  'ZPlr""'  ™""'  "'  ""  "'^ 

AntnTw.;^  21  tzz^t^r:^  rrr  -  •"» 

covered  banks,  prairies  bedeoC^ith  flotrrant L'  "^  '"""■ 
forest  trees.     The  onlv  .iirno  of  i;f        "»"<=".  and  rich,  luxuriant 

from  out  the  ape.  „f7^„  C:'  "  "h"  °"  1"".  """"-^  °'  '""''"' 
i»g  idle  and  li^tle-^s  upon  tLL^  1„„T  "'"°  "  ""''"'^  ^'"°''- 
upon  the  passing  steamor  1,  .  f'  ,  '"«  '"  """''  """nishment 
of  a  warrior's  riflo  onahead  ^   .'"'"™''  '=™'''  ''°  ^''""^  ""e  craek 

the  underbrush  and  a  :laj  Te":" a^H °«, ""?  '°  "^"^  '» 
d'ush  into  the  foiling  curr!n,  1,7    ^  ""^  '""^  '"'""'  """^ 

'I'loeks  of  ducks  and  ^::::L:^::::^vzfZ,:z '-  "-'i. 

rise  re  uctantlv  from  jilm^cf  i.  .1  ,  "^"^  ^^g""^  o*  ^'an,  would 
Those  were  the  ene  of  85o"'  1j  "","'^"''  "^  "■»  ^•^-'-■ 
embryo  eities  sit  proudV  n  ite  b.nkr„rr'^'f  i  ^''''  »  ^»-" 
homos  oceupy  ainfost  ev'r;  n^o  of  sple!  F^  t  T'  "'Jl"^' 
derson  and  Saint  Peters,  tho  Pros,  issues  VoIT  i  '",''''  "*■"- 
week  and  the  Valley,  a'nd  the  Val k;  Town  \^  ZT''  "°7 
.mportanee,  and  increasing  in  wealth  Ini  Z"l  '"'"«  ""' 

the  wonlrful  Valle;::dts"val.eyTo':rr  '""'  ""'  """'  "''™' 
The  most  prominent  of  thesp  iro  Qi,  i 

Henderson,  Le  Sener,  Trave   e  des "  sT  lt''"''"'1°M  '''''' 
at  the  Big  Bend  of  th»  ,.;  .„      ','""'•  *"■  ■•  iter's,  and  Mankato 

H.n,  in-wealt'h'  -^.o  Xtion'r^^^^^^^^^^^  -^  '' 

county-seat  of  Scott  nm,nH,  „v,^     u    "    ,  •       ^^P'^^J-     -ft  is  the 
/    *-"''  "^J^cotc  (county,  and  about  th  rty  miles  from  <?f   t)„  1 

:"™r  k!:i^i,tr  "-^.  -'  — '  ^ '"  ^^ 

roadisonehundrcdandtSn  miles      At  r^/™*!';  °'  "■" 
about  one  hundred  and  &v^    iLTl  f  ^""  "™"  ""'"^  " 

ewamps,  &o.  '  ^  '"='°S  '"S'"  miles  in  avoiding 

"The  eountryncar  the  lake  ^is^  very  broken,  being  cut  up  by 


S 


IOC 


MLNisESuTA   A.ND    ITS    Kl'SOUKUKS. 


ft'  > 


.■avnu.8  descending  from  tlie  l.iglilands  to  ll,c  lake.     In  many 
of  tlicse  ravines  may  l,o  fonnd  son>o  of  tl.o  rid.cst  faniiinc 

"'"'f ,.'",  ^}'"r'.T-  """"^  "  ™vi..e  I,ut  l,„s  its  ..  trout 
brook  sliaded  with  a  I„.v,niant  grove  of  all  kinds  of  timber 
At  your  near  aj,,,roacl,  to  tl.o  liiglilands,  you  continually  en- 
eonnfcr  si.r.ngs  ,  and  it  is  not  an  unfreqnent  occurrence  to  find 
at  the  m-y  Iiciglit  of  some  ridge,  a  spriug  of  limpid  water  I 
made  it  a  point  to  searcli  tlie  liigliost  lands  for  water 

„  "if ''f  ^'Z'^'""  "'«  '•■''<''•  ^'V  five  or  six  n.iles  back,  you 
will  find  a  d.flcrcnt  country,  the  soil  of  which  would  be  hard 

theb^rt  •        "  '""'  '  """•'"  ■=""  l'""^'  "'•  >"'l'ornone  of 
the  best,  be.ng  sand  intermixed  with  numerous  small  flints. 

h  ..net  kn„h     lint  remember  we  are  on  the  dividing  ridge  be- 

south,  so   hat  whde  barrenness  presents  itself  in  your  immedi- 

voVto"Ff' "'l'^'"'' n"""'  """"•  '°  ""  ''Sl'to'- 'eft  brings 
miles  hn^U  :    '°^"-     ^^'''""  ^"'"^  "'S'^teen  or  twenty 

.n,  es  back,  ag„,„  (here  is  a  sudden  change  from  sterility  to 
.■.ch  pran-,cs  abounding  in  water  and  grov°es  of  fine  timb«  • 
such  a  country  as  would  make  a  farmer's  eyes  water  and  if 

;:™'""ti"°"'?-'"1''  ■'""  '"^''  '»  0™   ""  t'-t  >wfh 
ha  el-b™  1   ^"i '!"  '"■7'  »"8''"y  -"«ly,  abounding  in  small 

W  L  i      ^''"'f  """"y  "'"  '■»'•"'"■  '>"1  fi'xl  here  is 

the  gopher;     he  ground  is  literally  ploughed  by  them    so 

mnch  so,  that  n  many  places  their  excavations  made  t  iiffi! 
eult  to  proceed  on  horseback,  as  we  were  constantly  brakng 
t  rongl,  even  where  the  ground  appeared  smoothest.     1  tty! 
c  led  about  forty  miles  oyer  this  undulating  prairie,  when  I 
.trt,ck  the  woods  that  skirt  the  Cannon  neaf  ifs  head,  on  Ihe 
easts,de-eons,sti„g„f  the  largest  kind  of  oak,  ash,  waln,^ 
elm,  sugar  maple,  &c„  many  trees  of  which  were  four  and  five 
fee   .„  diameter,  s,xy  feet  to  a  limb,  and  straight  as  a  reed 
Ihe  woods  are  from  two  to  five  miles  wide,  and  extendi 
length,  I  know  not  how  far. 

"When  you  reach  the  Cannon,  which  here  runs  north  yon 
wdl  find  yourself  in  one  of  the  loveliest  of  conntri  ^1  " 
Cannon  .s  some  eighty  feet  wide  and  about  a  foot  deep,  with 


In  many 

it  fanning 
Its  "  trout 
of  timber, 
lually  en- 
ice  to  find 
water.     I 

back,  you 
I  be  hard 
r  none  of 
all  flints, 
ak  of  the 
ridge  be- 
a,  on  the 

immedi- 
ift  brings 
*  tAventy 
irility  to 

timber  ; 
r,  and  if 
mcd  his 
in  small 
I  here  is 
hem,  so 
!  it  difE- 
reaking 

I  trav- 
when  I 

on  the 
walnut, 
-nd  five 
a  reed, 
end  in 

th,  you 

The 

p,.  with 


1 1 


MINNKsoTA    U.VKK,    vmnSK    liKO.ON,    KTO.  107 

flowrSkrar;/-""^""  -ater-powe.     It  does  not  over- 
now  Its  banks  at  this  point,  rising  only  some  five  or  ,W  fl\ 

a'ti:rv:,rtnt"  r-r  •'"'■^-^ "-  "•'--'■^"• 

some  fo„r  mi?     back  Mt  Tr^"'"  Z  "  P™"'"  ^■^''"^'  «'™''» 
a  good  si.o"  dLltl,    1  ^^P»-T°"ta;  so  level  is  it  that 

"Lat»  T       f„""f'"  ''o  «««n  O"  any  part  of  it. 

»I.cei    f  J.:r;    ™  fo;'"""!'^''^'-'^  'J'«'-''-.  -  "  '-..Uifnl 

.0.  ^,  a.  i„di..   -   -^^^^^ 

i  append  also  a  dcscrintion  of  "  \ri1I«  T  .     ..     i  •  .     , 
oast  of  the  Missis.iin,„-  i/„7  •  "'''    '"''"'''•  "">"?'' 

its  localities  "Mi  leLae  'T r'"'''  *°  "'"^''  '^  ■"™'"  '''' 
ton-ito^y  sou  h,ves  of  ll  «"  ''•^"''  ''"'^^  "^  *"'"  "'  "■» 
miles  frL  no  th  to  sn.,,^     '  f  "f  ""'■'  ''""'«  •••>'™'  •^''sl'teo" 

On  the  erstsl'  ab^  l"!  Te  fT  '"^  ^"^'  '°  "■'=^'- 
north  shore  is  a  ooZ  .    •  •        """"=°  ''°""  f™'"  "'e 

large  bSe  s     aT  ,^,7"?"^  """  «''«  '•''ke  composed  of 

.hallo    rriol     is';.,'  "'-"/^''^'''y  '-■'■•go.     'i'he  lake  is 
entirel/eovcm  wit    irn         V'l  '''"'■^''' "'"'  *''"  ''""™' 

a^ovejs  a™,:!:;";:::  :;l  e::'^:,:^:'-  t'  -r" 

J.y^-  not  over  seven  or  eight  feet  above  the  waters  of  the 
"  In  the  soni^hf  nofovK-  ^nv'^'^ ,    "  ji     -i  ■, 

inlands,  composed  ent,rorb„Tde  rill  1  ""  '"''"'"'  ™'"" 

•^•y  oi  Douideis,  filled  up  sometimes  as 


f' 


111 

I  t    ^ 

[ili 


liiH 


MlXNISolA    AM-    n.s    KIHoriiCKs. 


'■  i 


U,t 


/* 


WF 


1:1 


1..M-1.  /iH  twenty  f.et.     Around  one  of  tl.e«e  iKlnnck  is  a  wall 
onMuiUera  several  feet  higl.er  than  the  centre,  the  formation 
ot  which,  as  well  as  of  the  lake  barriers.  I  attribute  to  the  ac- 
t.on  of  ,ce.     On  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  near  its  outlet,  is  a 
p.  ojecting  point,  bearing  northeast,  and  in  that  direction  corre- 
sponds with  the  point  mentioned  on  the  east  shore,  and  marks 
IMobahly,  the  course  of  a  granite  ridge  concealed  beneath  the 
<lnU.     Isear  the  point  is  the  largest  island  in  the  lake,  and  the 
only  one  covered  with  a  good  soil;  on  it  the  Indians  have  gar-' 
<l<^ns_^     J  he  ridge  forming  the  point  is  covered  with  pines 

"  Rum  river  is  about  twenty  feet  wide  at  the  outlet  of  Millo 
LnvH ;  in  less  than  a  mile  it  expands  into  Rice  lake,  about 
three  miles  long,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide.  ^J^.e  country 
a  the  lower  end  of  the  lake  is  from  twenty  five  to  thirty  fJt 
above  the  level  of  the  water.  Two  other  lakes  occur  in  the 
distance  of  about  five  miles,  both  filled  with  rice.  The  last 
one  18  about  two  miles  long,  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide. 

TOWN   OP   MILLE   LAO. 

This  beautiful  town,  situated  as  it  is  on  the  shore  of  the  largest 
lake  in  the  Terntory,  and  at  an  eligible  point  on  the  road  now  being 
opened  from  St.  Cloud  to  Superior,  is  at  present  the  principal  point 
of  a  traction  to  capitalists  looking  for  investments  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  Terntory.  It  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  one  of  the  best 
agricultural  districts  of  the  West,  and  at  the  head  of  the  pineries 
which  are  one  of  the  greatest  sources  of  wealth  in  this  section  of 
country,  and  as  it  is  the  nearest  point  to  Lake  Superior,  it  must,  at 
no  distan  day,  be  the  place  from  which  all  the  lumbermen  of 
JNokay,  Platte  and  Rum  rivers  will  get  their  supplies 

We  have  been  informed  by  Indian  hunters,  who  formerly  ranged 
the  section  of  country  of  which  Mille  Lae  is  the  centre,  that  it 
abounds  in  copper,  .nd  personal  observation  has  taught  us  that  the 
geological  formation  of  a  part  of  it,  is  quite  similar  to  that  of  the 

Tr  771 ''  "^^'^  ',"r  °^-    '^^"^^  *^'^  P--  *--^  this  town 
wil   be  backed  up  not  only  by  the  support  of  an  agricultural  country     • 
of  unsurpassed  fertility,  and  the  many  commercial  advantages  of  its 

tohS^T    ^  7T}  '''°"'°'''  ^^^^^  ^^°"^  ^«"^^  be  sufficient 
to  build  a  town  of  the  largest  size. 


lands  is  a  wall 
',  tlio  formation 
i')ute  to  tho  ac- 
■  its  outlet,  is  a 
liioction  corre- 
n-c,  and  ninrkH, 
3(1  beneath  tlio 
B  lake,  and  the 
inns  have  gar- 
I'ith  pines. 
c>utlet  of  ]\lillp, 
::e  lake,  about 
The  country 
to  thirty  feet 
i  occur  in  the 
ce.     The  last 
f  a  mile  wide. 


of  the  largest 
road  now  beins: 
principal  point 
the  upper  part 
le  of  the  best 
f  the  pineries, 
his  section  of 
ior,  it  must,  at 
lumbermen  of 

rmerly  ranged 
centre,  that  it 
:»t  us  that  the 
to  that  of  the 
;rue,  this  town 
Itural  country 
vantages  of  its 
I  be  sufficient 


i 


ar( 


of 


AVI 


urn 


HT.    PAUL 


109 


it- 


>-. 


tn 


I 


CIIAl'TEU   VII. 

*.°™c  ■?«     Z  ""«•'•"«'►■»•'■'=«■«     M«:T,„ ,,|8_T„P.     PRESS, 

C.I^«C„K8,    ETC-OmTUAUV     NOTICE     OF   ,AMES    M.    UO..BM„e: 

St  PA„L_|„titude  44°  52'  4«",  longiiu.lo  93°  4'  64"— is  » 
port  of  entry,  tl.o  county-,e«t  of  Ilan.soj-  county,  and  tl.e  8.at 

W     '  ;       ^,'-  '^""'™^'  "'"■  «™  ""I""  '■'■°>"  Fort  Snel. 

o    the  II,,.,  8„p,„  ,„„,,  „„j  „^„,.  .j^  ,„„„ 

M.nnesota  r.ver,  and  k  elevated   abont  cigl.t  Imndred  fee! 

above  the  gnlf  of  Mexico.     It  i,  near  tl.e  ge!gr„  ll  l-te 

of  the  continent  of  North  America,  in  the  nor  h  tcn,pe  a  e 

^one,  and  must  eventually  become  a  central  nucrens  f^r  t"  e 

bus,ne»s  o  one  of  the  best  watered,  timbered,  and  most  f  r  i  e 

and  healthy  countries  on  the  globe.     It  is  surrounded    r    e 

roar  by  a  sem.cn-cular  plateau,  elevated  about  forty  feet  above 

the  town,  of  easy  grade,  and  commanding  a  magnificent  view 

of    he  nver  above  and  below.     Nature  never  pfa,  ned  a  sdoT 

better  a  apted  to  build  up  a  sh„w>  and  delighM  XpKyTf 

ar  lutectm-e  and  ga.dening,  than  that  natural  terrac'    hil  , 

I  he  own  has  sprung  up,  like  Minerva  full  armed  from  the        { 

of  Jup.ter,  and  now  contains    ten   thousand  inhabitanto    its 

whole  instory  of  seven  years  forming  au  instance  of  wl« 
entprnriijA     ir.  ^   A  4.       ■      ■,  °         "ihiance  ot  western 

t^nierpuse,    an.     determined   energy  and   resolution    l.ui  ^  * 

-.urpassed  in  the  history  of  any  ffontier  settleme:::    ""'"'" 

.Ota.  we  find  subjects  of  interest,  whether  in   awiAin.  the 
.  of  ,ne  dusky  past,  or  alighting  upon  the  improvements 


ep 


r  • 


" 


i 


"  if  ;!•' 


9 


'h 


110 


i" 


MINNESOTA    AND   I'lS   UK, 


s<)Uj:ci<;s. 


of  our  own  times.     TI 


_.jere  is  scnrcolv  a  spoHnn  nf +i.«         ^^ 

i.it'Mpiii.     Commercially,   t  is  the  kpv  fn  ,11  .1  '        . 

iiorlli  of  if  111,1  l„.  ,T.„  M-  .    •  "  '''°  ™«'  '■"«"" 

(IriinM    ,1         ,  ^  ,       Jl"'"o»ota  riv,.,-,  to  tl,o  i,„„,e„»e  v„ll,.v 

t^an   .Joe   hundred    Jiir/'    W "L'^lHr  ""T'"";,  ■■■'- 

%  the  general  course  of  the  vivor   c;.  t:»     i  •      • 
tI.o  e.st  bnnk  of  tl,e  Mil' li",' n-' '",''' r''""'''' "l'"" 
river,  lioivover  it  tin,  „     ' '* ''P''    ."""^  '«■"'  course  of  tlic 

..ortheast.  T hi  ci  ir;  ""'r  ''"'"'  "  '■'■'""  «-''l'-est  to 
ing  about  for  e  "  r'f  "r  °'""'  '""'""'^^  ^'-"g"-  i"  cast- 
s' elevated,  a,  ,h°  °  ,'"  '""'T'-  '''"'"'  ''"^  "*'  ""^  '»- 
"f  tl.e  rive  ,"^  '"  vr,f  "",  ""  ''''""■•™  ""  "'^  "■■>■■?- 
<l.-eds   of    fee     abCe^  T,    "  ''"■"?"''  ''''"^-'■o^k  some  Imu- 

g;i.e„s  a.,d  Shi 't::  •„  iitrtr;::;i.r,';;f  "".• '' 

in  the  coutury    ivo,'  V;:;"  '"■*'  '"'  ""  ''^"  "^^  ""■■'"- 

orderseeured    and  wl,i^°n  "''<f  •=°"1''<'"'J  ^  la>v  ami 

together  for    „r;„;     ,,■?:•""  '"'•''"'  '■"■  »"''  '"'J-ll-l 

tiou  of  a  city  ,"       ',     tr '"'"  '""■  "l"  '"^'"'S  "'«  '"'""l"- 

street  is  fully  r  ,    e  irie/  ,'"'    :r ,""'"«'''"''-     T'-  .naiu 

shanties   to   fiCst  ry  h     ks    ts'  if  ,   ''';""*'"  '"""'"^  «-"' 

spires    show  that  J  aspto^'or  ..f;::  -' ^'^'f  ,'"^'^ 

upward,  and,  though  in  the  far  off  „n.t    ..  ,         ""'  "^ 

ring.     A  travelli„g*friond  obse  -od  thT  'e  tl  "' p'   ""  '"''''" 

whore    they    have'  fiv,    sabba.  teeV      'e^d   ^r'"  t"?'? 

Salnns,  the  Catholic  and  Protestant    fW  r     ?    .  ^'"''"■■''' 

Je.,  each  sending  forth   t ,  ^Lt^^'tV    "" ""'  "'"' 

~" ""  '"^  prayer  to  the  faitli- 


«'i'.    PAUL. 


Ill 


i'om  ll,„  loivcr  Iaii,li„ff  „f  Sf,  Pn„] 
»o."0  .cvcuy.fivc  feet  above  tl,e  met  anT  "™  "''""  "  '"="'^'' 
of  the  Jowcr  tow,,,  «l,icl,_w  h  ,.  ?  •"""'  "''""  "'"  '"» 
far  as  ,he  Great  Cave  a  dis^t'ZT'''"T  "P  """•iver  a, 
the  Unit,  for  about  k  ml  aLlr  Ti.''"''  '•""''  °™' 
I'l'^'-'  «l.  J'n,.I,  ,be  eam-tT,;*- Ar  "    Dayton's -eom. 

'•-«er  tow,,,  „b„„t  ba  ■:,!,:  Jl'"',";?"'-     I'""""?  fo™  tbe 

Jre,l  A.et  above "^^i;  ...f"''?'"  »"<'  ™-  .b-.c  bun- 

so  is  tbe  ,<.Ki„„  bevon,  f"  '  '"""'"*  "*  ""O'lo.l,  n„cl 

!-•"'"„  over!  ok's  'l^:l'tx:e''^•""'r'■'^^■    l'^™"  "■- 

«ye  a  wide  «t,.ctelf  of  tbe  late  S   ?,'",;'  "'"  """^''''  "^  "'« 
"";ay  ..„  tbe  Minnesota  in  Z  test  ""'  ""■^''  '""^-  *- 

'w  -ne;r::'iS;zt '';:  cr'  "r -^ ''-"  "■»  «•* 

'""'■  After  viewing  a  8,L|  K  '?  '^•"^"'  "^  '""'inct  „„t- 
"ortbwest,  as  a  settf,,.  tT"  b  "  l"'  '^T'^"'"""  ^  ■""<= '»  tbe 
ceoJ  tl,ronffb  a  c„u.iJny\L^'"'r  "•^''-"l-"-g«.  "e  pro- 
knolls,  marshy  .lell,  and  T'   TT"'''''''°"  of  oak-eovered 

are  the  most  cnrious  ol^c  m:  !t  *"  V™^''  ''^  "'»'^  »-«• 
"'is  .-ogion  presents.  Tbeteo^  1  "'"  .",  • ""  '"'""K'''-  "'"»'• 
each  other  ont  of  tbe  cbaeof-rasr.  ;''"'"' ""'^- ^'■*<' 
'lie  a  natnral  death  after  a!l  •„  ""'""''f  <^<'.  "'■  else  they 
a  scene  of  shipping  inTs:  X^rf :;,.- J^' "^O;  --""» 

"r™:;:  r:z7it;?:'"'  r  "■-'"-•'-  p°'- 

-koning,   and  fill        Zil  d     "''■  ^'"f  '""'  '-'  "-> 
__^^^^,        o  laiij,  gett,ng  d,seouraged,  moo,'ed  in  tbe 

i'ltere  are  no  fftiide-hoii-Jo  ^,.  n  • 
«Portsn,a„,  .,,o  o,Lt;J;fe};   j    ^i;,:   1  -;!   •'      a„g,er  or 
whoc"  r>.,!n',-  ii     •  -^   "''''^'■*  ^^Itll  tlie  Iroii.  I.  w.^.M^^x- 

-.t,,anuh„sta,.sifr:L:::::^>;;::~^^^^^^^ 


!^  Si: 


J 


I 


1 


112 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS    KKSOURCES. 


i;'   fiiij 


The  region  is  spotted  call  over,  cat  dist.ances  of  one  to  three 
miles,  witli  bright  and  cool  little  lakes,  thfit  abound  in  fish  ; 
among  which  ib  the  real  White  Mountain  trout. 

The  scene  over  the  blufF  in  the  rear  of  the  upper  town  of 
St.  Paul,  is  the  delightful  prcairie  which  extends  oif  about  six 
miles  towcard  St.  Anthony  falls. 

The  true  qucality  of  the  soil  of  the  comparatively  chaotic 
lands  in  the  re.ar  of  St.  Paul,  is,  after  all,  better,  than  that  of 
the  Lands  of  Western  New  York.  It  has  less  of  the  black 
alluvion  than  our  lands  generally,  yet  it  is  highly  productive ; 
and  so  far  as  experience  hfis  tested  its  capabilities,  it  does  not 
depreciate  at  all  by  cropping.  It  is  strongly  impregnated 
with  lime,  and  possesses,  in  a  high  degree,  the  active  principle 
imparted  by  a  variety  of  mineral  substances. 

This  soil  can  be  m.ade,  by  the  appliccition  of  mcanure,  of 
which  an  abundance  can  be  h.ad  for  the  trouble  of  Ccartlng  from 
town,  more  productive  than  the  best  river  bottoms.  For  the 
purpose  of  gardening,  I  am  inclined  to  prefer  it  to  the  latter; 
and  if  I  was  to  purchase,  I  would  select  the  lands  I  could  find  un- 
occupied, nearest  the  town. 

A  stranger  is  generally  somewhat  astonished  cand  not  unfre- 
quently  very  much  .amused  at  the  scene  presented  for  con- 
templation on  his  first  arrivcal  at  the   St.  Paul  landing.     In 
short,  his  first  impressions  with  regcard  to  the  state  of  society 
here   are   .altogether   unfavorable.      He  is  welcomed   by  an 
unusual  and  motley  group  of  hum.an  beings,  gathered  from  all 
parts  of  the  Union,  the  Canadas,  the  Indian  lands,  and  Pem- 
bina, besides  the  curiously-mixed-up  race  of  natives.     This  is 
indeed  a  most  peculiar  feature  of  the  capitcal  of  Minnesota, 
which  in  respect  to  its  inhabitants  ditfors  materially  from  any 
place  I  have  visited  in  the  west.     Being  a  i  old  settlement  of 
French  and  half-breeds,  and  the  present  seat  of  government 
for    the    territory,    situated    near   the    head    of    navigation,   and 
attractive   to   the   Indian   braves,   a    strange    spectacle    is    often 
presented,  or  strange  indeed  to  the  uninitiated.     All  the  diff  .ent 
classes,    however,    mingle    together,    forming    a    singular    mass, 
variously   habited,    speaking   in   different   languages,  ''and    distin' 
guished    by   a   Taficfcy   of    cuuiploxions,    features,    and    manners. 


1 
I 
f 
a 
a 
fi 
tl 
n 
c 
tl 


8T.    I'A'     .  113 

Yet  all  this  appeavH  quito  common,  and  excites  no  curiosity, 
among  those  who  have  rcsidcl  hero  but  a  few  months 

But  how  m-eront  the  spectacle  appears  to  the  stranger  and 
visiter.     Chained,  as  it  were,  by  a  spell  of  astonishment,  he 
imuses  a  moment  to  view  the  scene,  before  setting  foot  on 
-shore,  to  mingle  in  the  promiscuous  multitude.     A  variety  of 
pei-sons  attract  his  attention.     Merchants  in  search  of  newly, 
arrived  goods;  editors,  anxious  for  the  latest  news ;  citizens, 
receiving  their  long-exj.ected  friends  from  the  east  or  south  • 
carmen  and  coachmen  with  their  t.ams,  all  indeed  join  in  the 
tumu  tuous  strife  and  enjoy  the  excitement.  .  A  little  removed 
from  the  crowd  may  be  seen  another  class,  which  by  the  way  is 
too  numerous,  for  so  small  a  commmiity  as  that  of  St.  Paul    This 
IS  composed  of  a  host  of  lawyers,  politicians,  office-holdei's,  and 
ofhce-seekers,  whom  w(,  nu.y  p(,rhaps  call  refugees  from  other 
states,  though  actuated  by  the,  hope  of  gaining  some  honorable 
position  and  a  share  of  the  public  spoils.     They  are  discussing 
very   boldly,  perhaps,  a  sulject  pertaining  to  the  territorial 
government,  or  the  late  doings  of  Congress. 

Amid   the   busy    crowd    may   be   seen    the   courteous    and 
sociable    goyenior,    couv(,rsi„g    freely    with    his    fellow-citi- 

other  distinguished  j.ersonage  just  arrived.  Close  by  the  side 
of  his  excellency  a  JJakota,  Winneb.go,  or  Chippe.4  warrior 
strides  along  as  boldly  and  ,uite  a,  independent  as  tie 
grea  est  monarch  on  earth,  lie  is  attired  in  a  red  or  white 
blanket,  with  his  legglns  and  n.ocassins  fantastically  orna- 
mented with  ribands,  feathers,  beads,  &c.,  while  his  long 
braided  hair  is  adorned  with  a  number  of  ribands  and  quills! 
his  face  IS  painted  with  a  variety  of  colors,  giving  him  a'n.os 
frightful  appearance.     In  his  hands  he  carries  a  gun,  hatchet 

ani  7l\'  1  •";"'' •  '''"""  ""'^^  ''^^""^'  -  --^'  -  tali 
and  athletic  in  his  form   a  feeling  of  admiration  involuntarily 

fills  the  stranger's  m,nd~he  pronounces  the  Indian  warrior 

the  hon  of  the  multitude,  and  is  forced  to  respect  his  sava4 

C:,;f  "^,^^^  '""-^  '■'-  '^^-^  till  he  joins,  perhaps,^ 
company,  of  ni.  own  tribe,  some  of  wiiom  are  quietly  regaling 
themselves  at  the  end  of  a  long  Tchandahoopah,  others  gazing 


Hi 


114 


MINNJiSOTA   AND   ITS   RESOURCKS. 


■' 


at  the  wliito  man's  \ng  canoe.  Now  tlie  astonished  gazer 
bcliohls  a  group  of  dark-eyed  squaws,  some  carrying  their 
heavy  burdens,  others  with  papooses  on  their  backs,  with  tlieir 
bare  heads  sticking  above  a  dirty  blanket.  The  little  tilings 
may  be  sleeping  and  as  the  motliers  walk  carelessly  along, 
their  heads  dangle  about  as  though  their  necks  would  break  at 
every  step.  They  sleep  on,  however,  nor  heed  the  scorching 
rays  of  the  sun  shining  in  their  faces. 

The  stranger  having  become  satisfied  with  the  contemplation 
of  such  and  similar  scenes,  at  length  concludes  to  debark,  and 
soon  he  too  becomes  one  of  the  promiscuous  multitude.     He 
soon  forgets  the  oddities  that  so  much  excited  his  curiosity 
among  us.     Though  he  finds  a  great  multitude  of  French  half- 
breeds  and  Dakotas;  yet  the  character  is  decidedly  eastern. 
The  red  men  who  are  now  so  numerous,  will  ere  long  flee  away 
before  the  influence  of  civilization,  while  the  native  French, 
half-breeds,  &c.,  will  be  absorbed  by  an  eastern  society.     In 
short,  everything  is  fast  partaking  of  a  Yrnkee  spirit,  and 
yielding  before  the  influence  of  Yankee  enterprise. 
Another  writer  thus  impartially  describes  St.  Paul  :— 
"  The  town  site  is  high  and  conspicuous,  being  elevated  from 
seventy  to  eighty  feet  above  the  water  at  common  stages.     The 
central  part  embraces  an  extensive  level  plateau,  terminating 
along  the  Mississippi,  in  a  precipitous  bluff.     This  bluff  after 
running  for  some  distance  recedes  from  the  river  on  the  east 
and  west,  and  by  assuming  a  gradual  ascent,  forms  two  com- 
modious landings,  called  the  upper  and  lower  town,  meeting 
upon  the  elevated  plateau  of  the  central  part     As  a  natural 
consequence  there  was  a  good  deal  of  strife  between  the  two 
sections  for  the  ascendency  in  commercial  matters  particularly. 
The  site  upon  which  the  lower  town  is  mostly  built,  is  several 
feet  below  the  central  and  upper  parts,  and  has  quite  a  sandy 
soil,  while  the  higher  portions  are  on  a  limestone  formation, 
lying  above  the  sandstone. 

"  The  latter  formation  in  many  places  is  so  soft  that  the 
swallows  make  their  nests  in  the  rock,  as  in  ordinary  sand- 
banks.    Much  of  the  sandstone  is  nearly  as  white  as  loaf-sujrar 
and    it    its    of   a   very   superior   quality   for   the   manufacturlnc^ 


ST.    PAUL. 


115 


of  glass.  These  high  rocks  passing  up  far  above  the  water, 
and  disphiying  their  snow-M'^liite  sides  to  view,  form  a  peculiar 
and  exceedingly  beautiful  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi. 

"  In  the  rear  of  St.  Paul,  or  on  the  north,  rises  another  bluff, 
or  hne  of  hills,  which  encircles  the  town  site,  in  the  shape  of 
an  amphitheatre,  bending  gradually  until  they  approach  quite 
near  the  river  again  toward  Fort  Snelling  on  the  southwest, 
and  toward  Lake  Pepin  on  the  southeast.     These  smooth  and 
beautiful  hills  extending  from  one  half  a  mile  to  i^pward  of  two 
miles  from  the  town,  afford  many  most  delightful  situations  for 
country-seats  and  farms.     From  these  elevations,  an  extensive 
view  is  afforded  of  the  surrounding  country,  particularly  of  the 
town  below,  and  land  of  the  Dakotas  beyond  the  Mississippi. 
Far  away  to  the  south  and  southeast,  the  Father  of  Waters  is 
seen  rolling  his  silent  tide  majestically  along,  guarded  on  either 
side   by  rock-bound   bluffs   and   hills.      Indeed   we  seem  to 
behold  even  now,  through  the  dim  vista  of  fuu:re  years  the 
glittering  mansions  of  St.  Paul's  merchant-princes  risino-  up  in 
every  direction,  on  these  hills  now  in  the  state  of  nature  or 
rudely  adorned  by  the  humble  chaumicre  of  the  French  and 
half-breeds,  or  the  simple  lodges  of  the  noble  Sioux. 

"There  is  one  serious  objection  to  the  back-grounds  of  St 
Paul,  at  present,  though  in  time,  it  will  prove  to  be  a  greai 
blessing.  A  great  many  springs  of  'pure  cold  water'  are  con- 
tinually  gushing  from  the  base  of  the  above-mentioned  hills 
forming  several  bad  marshes,  and  rendering  an  access  to  many  of 
the  choice  situations  rather  difficult.  Good  roads  have  been  con- 
structed  over  these  wet  places,  while  the  water  supplied  by  the 
bving  fountains,  can  easily  be  brought  in  town.     There  are  also 

much  h-T  I  i^  'i'  r  "^'^  '"PP^^^^  ^^  «P""g«'  ^°d  situated 
much  higher  than  St.  Paul,  which  can  be  made  to  supply  a  large 
city  with  excellent  water.  In  short  the  place  has  many  natural 
advantages  for  a  great  city."  ^  "diurai 

Every  day  makes  it  clearer  that  St.  Paul  is  destined  to  be  of 

more  importance  as  a  city  than  the  most  sanguine   have   dared 

0   anticipate.     Not  only  has   our  town  already  become,  in   the 

four  short  years  of  its  existence,   the   emporium   of   trade  for 


m 


IIG 


MINNESOTA    AND   Il^S   RESOURCES. 


all  that  vast  area  of  country  above  us,  extenfling-  from  tlie  sliore 
of  Lake  Superior  to  the  head  waters  of  the  MisHouri  — a  trade 
yet  limited,  to  be  sure,  by  reason  of  the  sparscness  of  the 
l.opulation,but  hourly  increasing,  and  which  must  soon  become 
incalculably  great ;  but  there  will  be  soon  a  fresh  impulse  gi,'en 
It,  by  the  settlement  of  those  matchless  lands  on  the  west  sid.- 
of  the   river,  lands   of  vast   extent   as  well    as  fertility,  watered 
by  the  Minnesota  river  and  its  tributaries.     Standing  at  the 
steamboat  head  of  the  Mississippi,  the  main  artery,  nay  the' 
only  artery,  north  and  south,  through  the  continent  of  North 
America,  it  can  have  no  rival,  no  cmpetitor  for  the  business 
of  those  regions  of  which  it  is  already  the  focus.     Our  line  of 
business  is  essentially  with  the  north   and  the  south,  the  east 
and  the  west,  turning,  as  it  were  upon  «  pivot,  on  this,  the  head 
ot  steamboat  navigation  ;  and  from  this  point  there  will  in 
time  radiate  railroads,  to  connect  here  with  steamboats,  in 
various  directions.     But  there  is  a  probability,  nay  more  than 
a  probability,  that  a  plan  of  internal  improvements  will  be 
executed  by  the  British  government,  which  will  hasten  the 
development  and  growth  of  St.  Paul  beyond  all  parallel.     I 
refer  to   the   contemplated  construction  of  a  line  of  railroad 
from  Hahfax,  in  Nova  Scotia,  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  north  of 
Lake  Superior.     The  construction  of  that  road  would  imme- 
diately  require  the  construction  of  a  railroad  from  St.  Paul  to 
intersect  it.    The  chain  of  lakes  would  prevent  its  intersection 
east  of  us,^  besides   that   here   the  steamboat   approximates 
nearest  to  it-the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  being,  on  every 
account,  the  proper  line  of  connection  with  it.     The  whole  of 
the  intercourse  of  the  southern  and  western  states  with  Oreo-on 
nay,  with  California,  would  take  this  route  ;  all  the  emigration' 
and  imu.igrat>on,  probably  all  tl.  ■  trade  of  those  states  with 
Ohina,  Japan,  and  the  East  Lidies  in  short,  M^ould  take  this 
route  ;  and  there  would  not  be  a  busier  transhipment  city  than 
St.  Paul  on  tins  continent.     If,  already,  it   has  come    to  be 
known  that  tins  very  route  to  the  Pacific  is  not  only  shorter, 
cheaper,  healthier,  and  far  better  than  any  one  south  of  it~if 
as  we  know,  St.  Paul  has  already  become  a  pine,  .f  n^tfit 
for  companies  migrating  to  Oregon,  without  railroads ~ what 


ST.    PAUL. 


117 


may  we  expect  to  see  when  the  traveller  from  New  Orleans, 
who  lands  here,  may  be  whirled  here  upon  a  continuous 
railroad,  through  the  high,  healthful,  romantic  ranges  of  the 
hutia  0,  along  the  northern  verge  of  the  temperate  zone,  to  the 
blue  racihc ! 

The^  route  from  Halifax  to  Fuca  straits,  opposite  to  Van- 
couver  s  island,  has  been  ascertained  to  be  quite  as  feasible  as 
the    route   proposeu   from   Saint   Paul  to   Puget's    Sound,  and  a 
very  large   part   of  the   country  is   the   finest  wheat   country  in 
the  world.     The  distance  would  vary  but  little  from  that  of 
our  route --while  from  London  to  China  it  would  be  consider- 
ably less  than  ours      By  measuring  a  globe,  it  will  be  seen 
that  Lake  Huron  is  less  distant  from  London  than  New  York 
fi-om  London  ;  and  as  Lake  Superior  is  but  six  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  elevation  above  the  Atlantic,  a  railroad  from  Halifax 
to  Lake  Superior  might  be  constructed  on  almost  a  dead  level. 
1  his  would  enable  England  to  transport  all  the  produce  of  the 
Mississippi  basin  to  Halifax,  at   a  much  less  cost  than  to  any 
Atlantic  city.     Besides,  Halifax  is  much  nearer  to  Europe^ 
and  would  avoid  the  st.rms  and  dangers  of  navigation  between 
Halifax  and  New  York.     An  examination  of  this  subject  will 
show  that,  should  England  build  the  road,  she  will  not  only 
have  a  great  advantage  over  us,  but  would  control  us  and  the 
world  :  for  it  is  her  commerce  with  Asia,  and  not  ours,  which 
must  sustain  the  road. 

The  route  for  such  railroad  connection  would  be  nearly  or 
quite  due  north  from   St.  Paul,  following  the  chain  of  small 
lakes  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  touching  the  western 
shores  of  Mille  Lac  and  Sandy  lake,  a  route  not  only  practi- 
cable, but  highly  favorable  for  a  railroad,  nearly  level,  and 
requiring  less  grading  than  almost  any  other  route  that  could 
be  found  on  this  continent ;  and  the  whole  distance  from  St. 
fnul  to    the   dividing  ridge  north   of   Lake    Superior,  along 
which  the  British  railroad  will  be  extended,  between  Halifax 
and  i  uget's  sound,  is  less  than  four  hundred  miles.     It  will  by 
no  means  be  necessary  that  the  road  from  St.  Paul  should  be 
extended  to  Pembina,  which  is  much  too  far  west,  and  a  much 
more  distant  point  for  connection,  although  the  face  of  tho 


a'   m 

I 


> 


I 


118 


MINNESOTA    AND    IJ'S    ItKSOL'KCKS. 


country  to  rcmbiiia  is  entirely  practicable  I'or  the  construction 
of  a  railroad. 

That  the  northern  route  to  Oregon  will  soon  be  i/ic  route  for 
all  northern  emigration  (railroad  or  no  railroad),  is  a  certain 
event  ;  and  the  very  next  season  will  make  St.  Paul  an  im- 
])oit,'uit  point  for  outfits  to  the  Pacific. 

The  railroad  survey  by  the  United  States  government,  from 
St.  Paul  to  Puget's  sound,  is  treated  of  hereafter.  Whether 
(.ur  government  constructs  that  road  or  not,  I  consider  it  cer 
tain  that  England  will  complete  the  one  described  above  ere 
many  years,  and  St.  Paul  thus  be  t/ic  thoroughfare  from  our 
e.tstorn  cities  to  the  Pacific. 

Without  going  so  far  back  as  the  early  part  of  1847,  to  note 
the  few  rude  trading  cabins  or  tamarac  logs,  which  marked  the 
})resent  site  of  St.  Paul  (then  flourishing  under  the  unpoetic 
muhrhiuct  of"  Pig's  Eye"),  I  will  commence  picking  up  "inci- 
dents" about  the  middle  of  that  year.     Then  it  was  that  the 
"squatters"  upon  the  public  lands  which  mark  the  site  of  St. 
I'aul  proper,  conceived  the  idea  of  laying  out  a  town  there- 
upon.    The  names  of  those  who  were  then  sole  "proprietors," 
barring  Uncle   San)'s  prior  lien,  are:  Vetal  Guerin,  Alex.  R, 
]\r'Leo(l,  Henry  Jackson,  Ilaitshorn  &  Randall,  Louis  Roberts, 
Benjamin  Gervais,  David  Fa>ribault,  A.  L.  Larpenteur,  J.  W. 
Simpson,  and  J.  Dcmarrais.     These  worthy  pioneers  are  all 
yet  living  — living  in  ev.  mplification  of  the  old  truism,  that 
tlie  first  settlers  of  a  new  country  generally  live  and  die  the 
poorest  men  in  it.     One  or  two  of  them,  who  appear  likely  to 
escape  this  apparently  predestined  fate,  only  stand  as  monu- 
ments of  exception  to  prove  the  verity  of  the  rule.     All  had 
an  unequal   interest  in  that  portion  of  the  present  capital  of 
Minnesota,  embraced  in  the  area  extending  from  about  half 
way  between  Sibley  and  Jackson  streets,  up  to  St.  Peter's 
street,  and  from  the  river  back  to  Eighth  street.     This  they 
employed  Ira  B.  Brunson,  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  to  lay  off  into 
town  lots,  during  the  month  of  July,  1847  — little  dreaming 
that  in  less  than  five  years  it  would  prove  the  nucleus,  around 
which  would  concentrate  the  future  commercial  and  political 
metropolis  of  a  mighty    commonwealth  — the  heart 'of  that 


I 


V 
!      • 


^<SER7^ 


ST.    PAUr. 


119 

emporium,  wliicli  is  to  give  pulsation  and  life- 


northwestern 

blood  to  the  northern  giant  of  th 


St.  Paul"  it 


e  Mississippi  valley. 


olic  church  which  had  been 


was  named,  from  the  parish  name  of  the  catl 


organized 


,...,,       .  „.  o —"  ""^  years  previous.     No 

iHible   signs  of  Its  future  greatness  became  manifest  d.n-i,,.. 

11    Z  t"  r"-""'-'"^.  ^'''^■'  •^' '''  ^^^^P^  ^^'«  ^-"1  ««1-  «t  tl.: 
falls  of  St.  Croix,  in  August  of  ISiS,  at  which  time  the  pronri- 

etors  proved  up  their  pre-emptions,  and  procured  titles  from 
l.e  government.     This  year  the  old  warehouse  at  the  lower 
binding,  now  occupied  by  Constans  &  Burbank,  was  erected. 
a..d  the  budding  at  the  corner  of  Jackson  and  Third,  lately 
occupied  by  George  Wells,  remodelled  from  a  rude  cabin  into 
wha    was  then  considered  a  spacious  and  commodious  hotel 
Mr.  liass  made  the  improvement,  and  was  the  first  landloni 
Mr  Larpenteur's  dwelling-house,  on  the  opposite  corner,  was 
built  the  same  year;  also  Mr.  Hopkins's  store,  on  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  same  streets. 

_    John  R.  Irvine  held  and  entered  the  "  claim"  on  the  river 
immediately  above  the  town  plot.     He  had  not  thought  much 
ot  It—merely  occupying  it  as  a  residence,  with  a  few  acres 
adjacent  to  his  dwelling  under  cultivation,  which  supplied  the 
wants  of  his  family.     The  keen,  speculative  eve  of  ileiny  M 
Rice,   fn-st   conceived   the  idea    of  laying   off   the  extensive 
plateau  embraced  m    the  claim  of  Irvine,   and  iinmediatoly 
acljacent    to    St.   Paul,    into    an    "addition"    thereto.       Rioo 
bought  in"  with  Irvine;  and  in  the  winter  of  1SJS-M9- just 
he/ore  the  passage  of  the  act  by  Congress  organizing  the  teni- 
toiy-their  addition  was  divided  into  lots.     The  mere  f-ict 
that  a  man  of  the  known  energy  and  enterprise  of  Ri.e  ha.l 
taken  hold  of  St.  Paul,  infused   new  life  into  the  place,  and  it 
soon  had  anrme,  even  beyond  the  limits  of  the  neighboring, 
^•egions       IIus  name  was  sent  far  and  wide  over  the  country 
AWien,  thi-ough  the  patriotic  perse^-erance  and  devoted  zeal  of 
llenry   H.   Sibley,  the   organic   act,  naming  St.  Paul  as  the 
temporai-y  capital,  passed  both  houses  of  Congress,  and  was  ap- 
proved  by  the  president  on  the  third  of  I\rarch,  1849 

Other  '^  additions"  rapidly  .nuhipli.d.     Smith  and  Whitney'^ 


(Hon.  Robert  Smith,  of  Alton,  111 


4' 


Miois,  and  Cornelius  S.  Whit- 


1 


'»    . 


120 


MINNK80TA    ANIJ    ITH    KI-:s«)URri:s. 


ney,  at  tlio  timo  Innd-oflico  receiver  at  8t.  Croix  Falls) 
laid  off  in  April  of  the  same  " 


year,  aiK 


(1  Iloyt 


was 

8  in  May.     Sam- 


uel  Leech,  land-office  register  at  St.  Croix  Falls,  not  to  bo  out- 
done by  Ins  fclb.vv-officer,  had  laid  off,  in  August  of  that  year. 

he     "'I;  'tion'  whKh  bears  his  name.     In  1850,  Guerin  and 
;  'r  .V    ^rl'^f -'"'^  Roberts's,  and  Fatterson's  additions,  were 
iai.  oH.     1  he  following  year  came  Winslow's,  Kittson's,  Willes' 
and  Irvn.e's  enlargement.     In  1852,  we  had  Bass's,  IJrunson's,' 
liaker  s,  and  W.nslow's  (No.  2).     In  1853,  the  compass  was  upon 
a  «tnp  of  land  between  Selby's  and  Kice's  farmn,  making  town 
lots   under   the   t.tle   of  "Irvine   and   Dayton's   new   addition." 
Ihere   are   other  small  additions,  perhaps,  which  have  been 
made   at  various  times,  not  noted,  because  of  their  insignifi- 
cance.    All  alluded  to  arc  important  parts  of  St.  Paul  as  it 
mm  IS. 

In  June.  1853  John  Esaias  Warren,  Esq..  recently  of  Troy. 
New  York,  bought  out  the  half  of  Winslow's  addition  in  the 
lower  town    and  it  is  now  known  as  "Warren  and  Winslow's 
cottage  addition."     Its  location  is  admirably  adapted  for  build- 
ing nice,  comfortable  residences  in  the  shape  of  cottages  ornee. 
Avitli  all  the  romance  of  scenery.  &c. 

Perhaps,  now  that  her  fate  is  decided,  and  her  high  destiny 
as  the  great  commercial,  social,  religious,  educational,  and  no- 
htical  emporium  of  the  northwest  unalterably  fixed,  it  would 
matter  little  whether  St.  Paul  remained  the  capital  or  not. 
mt  It  did  matter,  and  very  essentially  too,  at  the  time  the 
infant  struggle  took  place  to  secure  this  advantage.  Without 
It  she  would  never  have  been  able  to  hold  the  confidence  of 
those  who  had  labored  most  for  her.  or  attract  the  attention  of 
people  then  far  away,  who  have  since  become  part  and  parce' 
of  her  most  active  bones  and  sinews. 

Until  the  contest  for  the  capital,  and  consequent  centre  of 
political  power,  was  decided  in  favor  of  St.  Paul,  shrewd  and 
calculating  men  looked  upon  her  as  no  "  sure  thing."  It  is 
true  her  advantages  of  position  commercially  would  always 
have  made  her  a  place  of  considerable  note.  It  is  this  latter 
added  to  the  former,  which  has  made  her  what  she  is,  and  se- 
cured to  her  that  which  she  is  destined  to  be.     Neithpv  rm,hl 


HT.    ]'Al  I, 


121 


<)   ii.'iiiK'  line  fntjil 


Iinvo  neco.npliHlMMl  the,  work  seimrntHy.     'J.,  „,„„..  uuv  mt.r 
(li8n.lvnntn}.e,  liad  tlioro  been  no  cjipital  licro,  St.  J'anl  u..uM 
have  been  deprived  of  the  hmnemc  heuefits  of  hor  nowsp;,p,.r 
press,  those   main  arteries   of  her  present  healthful  life      At  ' 
least,  not  more  than  one  wonld  have  been    .,ble  to  live  here 
and  that  ni  a  condition  so  weakly  and  sickly  tnat  its  wheezinj 
and  consumptive  echoes  wonld  have  fallen  far  short  of  sendiiM. 
forth  her  just  meed  of  praise  and  advantage  in  the  full  and 
clear-toned    clarion-notes  which    have   been   borne   on   everv 
breeze  thnmglmnt  th,^  laud.      I'.ut  the  moment  it  was  decided 
that  St.  Paul  was  to  b(.,  the  political  as  well  as  the  connnercial 
centre  of  Minnesota,  new  lifo  and  nnerj^y  were  infused  into 
every  hmb  and  nnisde  of  her  body.     She  arose  and  rol.ed  her- 
selt  ni  the  habiliments  of  strouo;,  defern.iued,  youthful  viaor, 
and  started  fairly  and  fully  upon  her  march  to  future  o.,;:,t- 
uess^^     She  had  passed  the  ordeal.     From  that  hour  she  ^as  t<. 
go    forwar.l-~  never   look    back.     Property   immediatcdy   ad- 
v.xnced   more  than  two  hundred  per  cent.     Those  who   had 
stood  back,  fearful  to  invest,  came  into  the  front  ranks,  and 
gave  tlu-n-  means  to  the  improvement  and  building  up  of  St 
1  aul      ]  msons  from  abroad  Hocked  in  and  invested  lillerallv  • 
and  there  was  never  any  more  doubt  as  to  the  future.     No 

•  ""t'  ^T       m/  '"  *"  '^"''  ^'''  ^^^^  ^">'  f"^"-«  ^f  t,I.e  result. 

^othIuo.^vlll  better  partially  illustrate  the  steady  and  healthy 
advance  of  St.  Paul  as  an  in,portant  m.rt  of  tra<le  and  c  - 
merce.  th.an  the  iucrease  in  the  nuu.ber  of  stean.boat  arr  v    I 

uurnig  the  last  twelve  years  : 


1844  there  were    41  arrivals. 


1845 
184(1 
1847 
1848 
1849 
1850 
1851 
1852 
1858 
1854 
1855 


88 
24 
47 

(>;) 

85 
104 
119 
171 
235 
.310 
50;; 


it 

n 


Increase   17  per  cent. 
Decrease  50      '« 
Increase   9G 

35 
22 
14 
44 
.32 


I. 

u 


t.1 


<i 
<< 
(< 
(( 
<( 
(( 
<( 


49 


^ 


This  show:,  that  the  ratio  of  increase  has  been  ^renter  the  p.st 
se.ason  than  any  nthor  period  durin,^  the  last  ,.>ht  years,  and  that 


'1 


i;;i. 


I 


f 


122 


11 ! 


MFNNEHOTA    AND   ITH  IIKSOURCES. 


the  average  rate  of 


the 


increase  I 

'J  ho  number  of  boats  fngaircd  in  iho  tr.rU  •    iq-a 
in  ISM,  cloven,  i„  lM2^o  en L^iXV^    ,       ."T  """"' 
I8M,  tl,i«,.oigl,.;   and  i„   1855    aU  Lilt '    Twf 'l'"'"'  '" 
avcra-o  annual  inorcaBO  of  fiftv-nino  mrJT  ir  .u        •  °"'  "" 
ncKt  ton  years  k  only  onc-fou  fh  „f  dl  T  "'.°  "■"""  *■"■■  ""> 

i»  1«0«  over  200  boa'ts  JaSTngtm.  a  PaJ  """"'  "  "'"  «""  "» 

Ihc  carrying  trade  of  St.  Paul  in  IS^.O  ,i;'i      *        , 
boa.  foree  suffieicnt  to  seeuro  an  Ivol^f'o    on.  °'"^?  "  '*'""' 
During  .hat  year  .ho  iramigra.^ntothf TeL  "™  '""'  ""'''• 

parea  with  .he  nreviou,  amoun.  ^,f  n™  .  .  ?  ""'  '"SO,  com. 
u.trae.ions  in  CahfornTa  and"  wa^  „7  '°? 'l  •"",  """'«  '»  "'o 
the  ezi».enoo  of  .he  T^rritorvTn  I  *''™"™  '"'°"''"'S'=  ^^^"  »' 
S.a.es,  .oge.her  w  ith  tho  ft?  LP'  '"""T  "''  ""=  '^"""" 
por.ioL  o-f  .ho  T^rHe'ry^t's  UtdT.!  S  °'*'"/"'"' 
open  to  scttlen,ent,  i.  was  confined  .o  a  smaVlM'-"'' f"''  "'" 
theS.  Croi.,  Mississippi,  and  lilZT  '  '''"'  ''"'''"' 

In  1851,  .ho  s.eamboat  arrivals  at  S..  Paul  durin<»  th.  .. 

L';:"t,r?h?p::i::  r  ^riti  r^  ^-r^^"  ^-^  --'■ 

.1.0  Siou.,  whieh'  have  V^Z,  ^nZ  V IZ  f  ZT'  "'",' 
"gncultural  land  .o  so..lemo„.,  were  nLotlted  In  iZ  '""•"°'' 
to  the  delay  in  .he  eonsumn,a  ion  lyT—tJffV"''"^ 
"itl.  the  Sioux,  .he  country  west  of  tho  A  ;I  '  "  "'™"°' 

to  set.lon,ent  till  late  in  .he  Her  and  bu  7'"  ""^  ™'vT°"'' 
"ial-o  locations  in  .he  new  purchase     A  fe!  ,  7"°  "'"'''"''  '" 

sufficed  for  .ho  .rado  of  n.^  '"P"  ""^  "'"=  steamboat 

opened  during  his  ytr     it  !l"T'?  '""'  """''  '''^»  '^■« 

doubled,  and   St  p"  '  „hW     irit^""  "■  "'°  ^"f '"^  "S-i" 

'"■,  wincii,  in    1S19,  was   an   undefined   but 


ST.    PAUL. 


123 


i 

% 
i 


Hlightly  perceptible  beauty  spot  on  tbo  face  of  Minnesota,  has  now 
become  an  mtercsting  and  distinguishing  feature  on  that  lovely 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  stcuuiboat  business  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi  has  ^rown  in  a  few  years  from  a  con.paratively  insi4ifi. 
cant  business  to  one  of  the  largest  importance;  and  if  we  a?o  to 

judge  of  the  future  by  the  past,"  figures  only  will  bo  able,  in  a 
J;w  years,  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  commerce  of  the  Northwest. 

lie  trade  on  the  Minnesota  has  grown  up  from  nothing  in  the  last 
three  years.  In  1850  was  the  first  season  ..  steamboat  ever 
ascended  that  nver  above  the  Rapids.  In  that  year  the  xVominee, 
Anthony  Wayne,  and  the  Yankee,  all  went  above  that  point-the 
lankee  reached  a  point  above  the  mouth  of  the  IJIue  Earth      The 

['nf.C'.''''"'!!'^'^'  ^''"'^  ^^'^  '^'  '^'^"^'  ^"'^  *J'«  year  follow- 
ng  (1852)  was  the  first  season  that  boats  began  to  make  trips  up 

tha   river  with  any  kind  of  regularity,  and  that  year  there  were  bu^ 
tnirteen  arrivals. 

The  steady  growth  of  the  steamboat  interest  since  1846,  exhibits 
as  much  as  any  other  one  thing  the  rapid  development  of  the  North- 
west  It  will  be  seen  that  nine  years  since  there  were  only  four  or 
five  boats  which  occasionally  visited  this  region,  when  there  w-re 
supplies  to  bring  up  for  the  soldiers,  Indians,  fur  traders,  or  lumber! 
men,  and  thaUhe  capital  invested  in  the  boat,  could  no  have  been 
more  than  840  000;  while  during  1855,  sixty-eight  steamer  were 
employed,  involving  a  capital  of  not  less  than  .^1,000  000 

I)ubuoue''%nT''^'.T  '  M^^^  ""'''   ^'''^   ^^^«"«'  I>"°J«i^J^   and 
Dubuque;  120  from  the  Minnesota  river,  mainly  from  poin.^,s  below 

the  Ilapids  as  the  river  was  too  low  to  admit  of  boats ^crossin'foT 
a  great  portion  of  the  season;  and  the  rest  wore  r.om  St.  Louis 
Kock  Island,  and  points  on  the  Ohio  river  ' 

But,_  as  remarked,  although  this  is  a  good  illustration  of  our 
steady  increase  commercially,  it  is  only  a  partial  one.  Were  there 
any  mean.s  of  getting  at  the  comparative  increase  in  the  amount  of 
freyht  which  has  been  shipped  to  this  port  from  below  durin-  the 
past  five  years  I  could  find  therein  more  nearly  correct  data.     This 

22ZL  I  ""fl  '^'''^"''  ''"''  ''"^^  observations  and  incidents 
unsupported  by  figures. 

of-/''°T?T?  '^  ^^'^'  ^^f'  *^'  '^''''''^^'  ^"1"^^^  «on«i«ted 
nnnt.,/'  ~v"n  ,  ^*^^^'  "'  ''"^  ^^'^^^  landing;  11-reeman,  Lar- 
penteur,  &  Cc's,  same   place;    Henry  Jackson,  ju.st  closing  out, 


|i 


■til 


•f 


t>^' 


\'M 


MINMvSOTA    AM)    ITS    KKSolKCl.S. 


;fr 


III!! 


U  ' 


in  Iiis  olcriioiise  at  the  to],  of  the  l.luff;  W.  II.  For])CH,  8t.  Paul 
outfit,  Bench,  between  Jackson  and  llobeits  streets;   J.  W 
Simpson,  next  door;   and  the  large  Indian  trading  establish- 
ment  of  Olmsted  &  Ilhoca-s,  on  Third  street,  in  the  old  cabin 
which  was  recently  removed  to  give  place  to  the  handsome 
new  store  of  Mr.  Chamblin.     This  completed  the  lower  town 
Then  you  travelled  over  an  extensive  corn  and  potato  field  to 
ii  little  clump  of  shanties  and  balloon-frames  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  "American  house."     Here  was  Levi  Sloan,  upon 
his  present  site,  with  a  small  stock ;  and  next  above  the  Amer- 
lean  were  the  Mv.^i^vH.  Fuller,  with  a  somewhat  larger  assort- 
ment.    This  was  a!l.     The  capital  invested  in  merchandise  in 
the  entire  town  could  not  have  amounted  to  over  forty  thou- 
sand dollars. 

^  The  Fur  Company  did  a  very  limited  business  here  at  that 
time.     Their  centre  was  at  Mendota,  where  both  Mr.  Sibley 
and  Mr.  llice  — the  then  prominent  members  of  the  Chouteau 
firm  in  this  part  of  the  country  — resided  and  did  business. 
The  frame  of  the  "American   house"  was  just  up.     In  a  few 
weeks  the  room  in  the  extreme  east  end  of  the  building  was 
finished  off  for  a  store,  and  was  stocked  and  opened  by  Mr. 
Kice,  who  had  charge  of  that  branch  of  the  Fur  Company's 
business  known  as  the  "  Winnebago  and  Chippewa  outfits." 
During  the  summer  Mr.  Kicc  erected  the  then  extensive  store 
and  warehouse   near  the  upper  landing,  now  occupied  by  the 
]\ressr.s.  Fuller.     When  he  opened  (in  the  month  of  August), 
his  shelves  presented  much  the  largest  stock  ever  previously 
seen  in  St.  Paul.     Many  people  prophesied  that  there  were 
more  goods  in  that  establishment  than  would  be  sold  in  St. 
Paul  in  five  years. 

Late  in  tlie  fall,  the  Messrs.  Elfelt  arrived  from  Philadel- 
phia, with  a  very  heavy  stock  of  goods,  and  opened  in  the 
jdace  vacated  by  Mr.  Rice.  They  were  another  exemplifica- 
lion  of  extreme  verdancy  in  the  minds  of  immoveable  croakers. 
Other  smaller  establishments  had  risen  into  existence  during 
the  summer  and  fall ;  and,  at  the  close  of  navigation,  perhaps 
there  were  sixty  thousand  dollars  invested  in  legitimate  mer- 
cantile tradi.'  in  Hi.  I'aul. 


ST.    PAUL. 


St.  Paul 
■•;  J.  W 
sHtablish- 
)]d  cabin 
andsftme 
'er  town 
)  field  to 
icighbor- 
an,  upon 
le  Amer- 
V  assovt- 
ndise  in 
iy  tliou- 

}  at  tliat 
'.  Sibley 
houteau 
)usiness. 
n  a  few 
ing  was 

by  Mr. 
npany's 
outfits." 
ve  store 

by  tlio 
August), 
iviously 
•e  Mcr(3 
I  in  St. 

liladel- 
in  the 
iplifica- 
oakers. 
(luring 
leiliapa 
te  mer- 


125 


smaller  towns,  Xiavo  ^0^7'''^  T^  "^  "■"  '■''"^"^  '"  «■<> 
aI»o  have  aup^lld  Be:L  cott^t''"''  ^'  "^'™"-  "^''"^ 
and  towns  sprLiog  „„  i°  th°  °  L  f  ,,  .I"""™'  settlements 
braneh  of  business  \Z  I  horI^7  u  ""f  *"""<^™'^-  This  is  a 
rap..,  aa  tbe  .o.^.^Z^ZTZ^Tt  ^r  ""'  '"'' 

this.     Cipcnters  ant  Jo  Le     a^e"  "of  """"^  t"^'"^  '  P'™  - 
branches  of  mechanics     Of  ^1^'..  ""'  ""  "»*'  numerous 

fifty  to  five  hundr  d  ail  mos  oTth  T  "°  ''T  '"'"  ''™<'^«''  ^"^ 
business.  Brieklaj,  rand  lltt,  ""f"''^  '""P'"^''''  ="  ""='' 
the  various  branches  incMenfto  H.  '  ^''T'l  ""''  «''"''™'  »"d  "» 
ing,  enter  largely  int^o^  po 'll'r"' '':"*°S  ''"»'"«-  »f  l>»ilcl- 
the  departments  first  name!  ^       ""'  "'"'  ""="  «»"">  P^Portion  to 

>ong';XedL%^i?;j'r,:J:™/r"-,:^  -= »»-  too 

ends  of  business  to  havt Xied  „n  t™  ""'""  8™">  "i«o  the 

We  L::t:  ztz  xirrrtr '-v »-  -'--« -e. 

demand.    Th„  n„„i,er  of  tfavel"      r^,"""  """'y -^q-al^  the 
■"■ported  and  sold  here'  amoul   '^    """t"  "'"'''  "^^  ^'-'--Hy 
the  number  that  are  manuTc Cd    """'°  """"  '=''=  '""«!«''  '™es 
earried  from  the  poelte  of  ^  T"^  "f    ^''"  P"«'»  »»-"ally 
«>oigh  and  wagon'^Jltfacfurer,  TT  ^^  "'"  "''"'''■'  ''^^'ge^ 
Ohicago,  &„,  „:„,d  p^u  la  ""Lff   ?""'•'''  ''™^'  Skancatelfs 
.<»  machinery  and  a'hundrcf  iS  f    "V"  ."P^'""""'  ""''  ""^ 
walks  here -everybody  rUcs     if  1  u  J  '^'^^o-''^-    Nobody 
a  .nan  or  oompan/poss^'rg  the  rS°  "  ?, 7°  "°™"'™'  ^^ 

m  ^'"^^  -  '-0  wst  4dr :;;  xi:ii:  itcS 


I 


i  i' 


.  .^  I 


i:  mm 


Itl 


■j^MiMd^B 


Vh 


^26  MINNESOTA   AND   ITS  RESOUIICES. 

Wc  want  a  paper  mill.     The  demand  in  the  Territory  for  paper 
of  a  1  kmds  would  more  than  keep  an  extensive  mill  in  operation 
AH  the  requisite  facilities  for  a  manufactory  of  this  character  are 
a  so  here  in  the  greatest  and  purest  abundance  -  water-power,  fine 
clear  water,  &c.  ^        ' 

We  want  an  extensive  oak  cooperage,  and  also  a  bucket  and  tub 
manufactory.     Flour  and  other  dry  barrels  and  casks,  as  well  as 

ght  casks  of  oak  are  in  daily  demand.  In  a  year  o'r  two,  pork 
.  nd  be  f  barrels  will  be  greatly  needed  for  packing.    Timber  of  the 

ight  kind  for  staves  and  hoops  is  here  in  great  abundance.  Also, 
for  he  0  her  branch  of  the  trade,  we  have  plenty  of  white  pine  and 
white  and  red  cedar.  '^       -f  t  ^^  '*"»^ 

We  want  a  cotton  batting  factory.     Some  thousands  of  bales  of 
cotton  come  up  the  Mississippi  to  us  annually,  already  manuflictured 
nto  batting.     Why  not  bring  up  the  raw  material  and  manufacture 
It  here  as  well  and  save  the  profits  ? 

These  are  but  a  tithe  of  the  branches  of  manufacture  which  if 
started  n.htly  in  St.  Paul,  would  pay  a  handsome  profit  from  Ih 
b  ginning.    We  hope  this  brief  allusion  to  practical  facts  will  reach 
the  eye  of  capitalists  abroad  who  are  acquainted  with  these  depart- 

ZTZ   ^"'^T'^"^  '^''  «°^«  «f  ^^^^  will  not  be  slow  to  look 
over  the  ground.     We  guarantee  them  sure  success  if  they  under- 
stand their  business  and  manage  it  properly  ^ 
The  number  of  buildings  at  present  in  St.  Paul  is  about  2000 

as  folZ':^         "  '''  °^'"  '^'""''''''^  ^^^^^  ^^y  ^«  «I--^ 

l)wcllings,  offices,  aud  shops Tg^n 

Manufactories  and  business  houses ". n^ 

Churches '^"" 

Hotels '".*'!!!."'.".'..*!.".!'.'.".' ^^ 

Schoolhouses,  public  and  pri'vate." .'.'.'.".".'.' Jn 

Court-house  and  iail                                •'" 

Capitol 2 

College *■.'■''.; 1 

Historical  Hall ."'. 1 

1 

^^'"^""^ i^ 

During  the  past  two  years,  a  large  proportion  of  the  build- 
|ngs  erected  have  been  of  brick.  The  disposition  to  induLj 
m   cultivating  this  g,od  taste  is  rapidly  on  the  in  rea    .     Th  f 

econrv  t     ^"V"'^'^'"'''  -"''  '^^''"""'S  '^  fi^^  *I^- 
economy  in    erecting,,    at  the    outset,   safe,   permanent,   comfort- 


«T.    V.Wl. 


137 


•iMc  and  l„BtefuI  ,l»dli„s,  ,u„l  rtorel.ouscs.     Tlion-  is  about 

0  nuo  stately  walls,  t„  a,„l  materially  to  the  substant ia"^ 

muness  aj,,,eara,,eo  of  tl,e  ,,laco,  and  to  relieve  tl.o  eye  from 

iLTuT""'  "'  '''""  -""-■••'-■'""g.  'l-l'ed  with 

St^Pri  ""l  rT'  !''"  T"'  "'  S.-.-.eo  Imve  been  abundant  in 
bt  Paul.  _  If  ,be  „l,o„bl  ever  go  down  to  a  ,leg,aded  end, 
tl.  ougb  sn,  and  .nfamy.  It  will  not  be  tbe  fault  of  tbe  various 
«d.g.ous  ,n„ti,utlon,  and  denominations  of  our  common  e"nn! 

■Iribel'       '        "J"""""""  ""'^  I''""  '"  1811,  and  .Portly 
after  the  log  house  ot  w.,r«l,i,,  („„„  torn  down)  on  Bench,  between 

Mmneso  a  and   Cedar  Slrccs,   was  erected/  Tbe   eldJr  s  Xt? 

at  M  ndota  be.ng  c„lb.,l  the  church  of  St.  Peter,  the  one  here 

Ge  t  T  r  7'-'";;',  :«'■-'!""  °f  "-  g-at  apostle  of  the 

Ge.,t,les-.S  ,  ]  a„l.     Tl„s  gave  name  to  the  town :  and  it  is 

u.t  an  act  of  sin,,de  justice  to  state,  that  to  tbe  good  t         of 

he  eathobe  clergy  „„■  w„  indebted  for  the  excomn.nnica  ion 

flllfr^n    '',"•,"'*'"";""■"  "f  "^''»''»  ^'^y'"  ">"■«"'   i"  its 
plaee  un.d  .t  reached  an  enta„glen,e»t  of  sloughs,  marshes 
and  m„squ,to  dens,  some  n.iles  below.     In  May,  1S49,  ala  "e 

tie  c'  :.::"■  rr'i'r'  ;;"'■"''■»"='  "■  ""^ '»» ^•■"-•''  "-j- 

ine  caie  ot  tlio  iCcv.  Mr.  U.-ivonx   a  f..;fl,f,,i  o,  i         i 

The  fol1r.u-;M,v  ..         Ai-     "'^^^"'^'  '^  t.vitht.il  ana  zealous  man. 

..=.s..op  and  a^ived  b!:"  b ,'  ^s  .ri,:/^;  ^ ' '«:,  .C;';,!;! 

year  the  bnck  building,  at  present  u^ed  as  a  churl    4ifie 
wa    erected.     It  was  originally  designed  for  a  college    ™d 

dr        TbiTh  :"r  m',-  "■"'=.'■""  '"■  ''■"  -t-plated  e'at    '! 
diab     Ibis  lat  er  bu,l,l,ng  will  bo  upon  a  magnificent  scale 
funds  are  now  being  raised  for  Its   erection.     The  cong  ell; 
or   the    Catho  b   church    of  iit-    i>     i  ,         <-ongregatioQ 

.—  commun.:;::  :'4  in=-tz::z  s 

The  first   Procc^tanc   cliureh  organization  in  St.  Paul  was   the 


I'i}' 


128 


MINNlisO'lA    AND    ITS    JiliSOUKCl.;! 


U 


the  fi,«t  bnck  cl.ui-ch  in  the  tei-ritoi-y-Rcv  Mr  Nol  I'.   1     T 
I'-g  hcing  the  first  brick  buihling  of  ™y  k'nd     T^l  ' 

-o,,t,..throe  .„„™hor«  in  co^ili^n^aLuh   ehn rtrLt:,;:: 

S::  r'" i'Snt""^:'''^^^'^'-"'-''^^'^-^ 

(Jan,  of  .,11  I    '"""'•  """=''  ioioy^i  and  roRpectca  l,y  Chris- 
.len      itev  Mr,  Penman  is  the  present  minister. 

«      rrivtl  t  •r'^f""'^  "' ""^  Presbyterian  ehurch,  N. 

•>.,  .u.ned  here  in  April,  1840,  he  havins  been  nssio-nerl    I,;i 
l.«.t  by  the  general  assen.bly  of  hi,,  chureli.    ZZfZlZ 

oh  :  ite-ireT';  • '"  "'"'  --->"'»We  a„<l  earnest  : S'^iiTh 
cha  acte.ues  him  in  everything  he  undertakes.     He  labored 

vn  go"'':  itii  1 :  'iT  rfr  <*"">  °"'^  -'.ooiho^e  t  « 

village,  until  ho  conld  bmld,  mostly  at  his  own  exnense    » 
temporary  place  of  worship  near  his  dwelling.     lit  E   the 

^^    •       .11    .,n    ^"^^^  '^16  yet  living,  save  one.     Anril  fnl. 
"  v,ng,  the  bnilding,  a  slight  frame  oneT  was  destroyed  by  fir 
Ihis  aecident  gave  zest  to  the  contemplated  erection  of  the 
resent  elegant  brick  edifice,  at  the  corner  of  St  Pe  «  an, 
Bench  streets,  which  is  the  best-finished,  appointed  Mcn^o 
commodious  ch„rch  in  St,  P„,d.     Worship  was  fist'  I,"     in 
<l.n-i„g  the  early  part  of  the  f .llowing  winter     TbV     'l   ' 

.»  now  thoroughly  finished,  and  dnriifg       ,3  a  sitrb  otl'^ 
was  added  to  (lie  clmir     ^M.n  ,       i         f  ^         ^'^'^^ 

riccted  .vlfl.  V       1         *  .  ™^^'  ""^  communicants  con- 

nected >vith  this  church  ,s  small  in  comparison  to  the  number 

rofTr:"!  ""'  ''''''''-'-'•     Tl-7  comprise  irftt; 
out  o    a  regu  ar  congregation  of  rising  tAvo  hundred      Aside 
from  his  ngid  attendance  to  his  n.inisterial  an      o  hei  r  H 
g.ouB  duties,  Mr.  Nclll  is  almost  an  .^.,....,/,  ,,  ,ZZ.yl) 


IInL...... 


ST.    I'AUL. 


129 


.1  g^ood  nt...n.  Il.s  labors  as  secretary  of  the  Minnesota 
Ilistoricul  feocioty,  m  collecting  and  writing  our  history  "as 
we  go  aloi.g."  and  his  zeal  in  the  cansc  of  popnlar  education, 
are  trnly  connnendahle.  In  fact,  all  of  our  clergymen  take  a 
deoi.  and  laborious  interest  in  this  latter  great  and  connnend- 
abJe  work. 

The  scattered  members  of  the  baj.tist  Hock  were  also  col- 
ected  m  1S19,  by  the  the  late  llev.  Mr.  Parsons.  IJe  died  on 
his  way  home  from  the  East,  in  Noven.ber,  ISol,  just  after 
he  completion  of  the  church  ediiice  on  Fifth  street,  whicli  he 
had  worked  hard  to  iinish  and  ],ny  i\n:  Ifis  funeral  sern.on 
was  the  first  ever  preached  in  the  house.  Its  second  p.stor, 
Kev.  1.  L.  Cressey,  was  called  during  the  summer  of  18r,2  to 
take  charge  of  this  congregation.  It  has  about  twenty-five 
communicants.  Rev.  Mr.  Torbert  at  present  officiates. 

The  Home  Missionary  Society  of  the  protestant  episcopal 

church  established  a  mission  in  St.  Paul  in  the  summer  of  1850 

Rev.  Messrs   Breck,  Wilcoxon,  and  Merrick,  were  placed  in 

charge.    Lnder  their  superintendence,  the  present  neat  church 

edifice   on  Cedar  street,  was  erected  the  ensuing  summer.    On 

he     2  h  of  April.  1851,  Right  Rev.  Bishop  Kemper  preached 

he  dedication  sermon,  at  which  time  the  parish  was  organized 

Rev.  Dr.  Van  Ingeu  is  Rector.  ^ 

The    methodist    episcopal    church    e.stablislied    a    mission 
nmong  the  Germans  of  this  place  in  the  spring  of  1S51.     Rev 
.Jacob  Haas  was  called  to  labor  in  this  vineyard.     By  his  de* 
votioii  and  industry,  a  respectable  congregation  was  soon  col- 
ected,   and   a   church   organized.     Tliey  worshipped    in    the 
lower  schoolhouse  until  last  August,  when  they  had  completed 
a  small  but  comfortable  church   building,  situated   upon  the 
lower  extreme  of  Smith  and  Wliitney 's  addition.     This  oi^an. 
ization  numbers  about  forty  members,  and  is  at  present  under 
charge  of  Rev  Mr.  Korfhag-Mr.  Haas  having  been  called  to 
Dubuque  last  fall. 

In  the  fall  of  '51,  by  the  constituted  authorities  of  the  pres- 
byterian  church.  O.  S.,  Rev.  J.  G.  Riheldalfer  was  sent  among 


us  to  l)uild 

ate^y  went  about  his  work.     He  1 


up  a  church.     He  was  well  received,  and  i 


I 


niniedi- 


las  now  a  clmrch  iiunil 


KMUin- 


130 


MINNESOTA  AND  ITS  RESOURCES. 


lifty  u.c,„bcr,,  and  a  commodious   and  beautiful  eburcl.  situated 
'  ■■  La,,,  „1  t„,uare.     Tbo  orgaui.atiou  of  tbis  cburch  took  plaee 
u,.,n,  t  0  moutb  of  February,  1852.     It  i,  ,ot  iu  Us  ij!^, 
but  ,»  courtantly  .nereamng  witb  great  rapidity.     From  the  Jy 
li.gb  e.tMoati.m  ,u  ,vbiel,  Mr.  K.  is  «,  desene.lly  b.id   bv  all 
our  e,t,.e„.s,  tbrougb  vespeet  to  bis  many  good  ,jualitio/ns  a 
"«n  and  c,t,«.n,  .as  well  as  his  .ability  and  ze.al  as  a  Cl,risti,.n 
m  i..st,u-,  t  „.,o  ,v,ll  be  nn.ido  means  provided  to  coranlete  tbis 
substantial  and  elegant  structure  at  an  early  day 

(->nc  excellent  and  e„ ,cudablo  trait  has  ebaraeterized  tbe 

boar.ng  and  eonduet  of  ,.ur  ministers  connected  witb  tbe  several 
deno,nn,at,ons  of  tbo    Cbristian   cinncb.      WitI,  scarcely  ^ 
ex  e  ,„„„.  ,l,ey  |,ave  exercised  a  truly  Cb,-is,ia„  cb.arity^aud 

te,  tions.  Ihey  have  labored  unitedly,  not  only  for  tbe  snirit 
ual  but  also  for  ,l,e  temporal  welfare  of  tbis  people.  ' 

Al.  of  o,u-  ebureb  edilices  bave  excellent  and  fine-toned  bells 
att.acl,ed  totbem,  and  tbeir  music  upon  a  sabbath  morning 
ueve,.  tads  to  carr-y  the  migrated  citize.r  back  to  his  nativ  c  y 
or  village  rn  the  "old  settlements,"  and  remind  him  of  the 
green  valleys  and  sun-clad  hills  of  his  "boyhood's  home  " 

Ibere  are  two  "catholic"  ten.perance  societies,  Irish  and 
Ca),adian,  wb,ch  hold  regular  mcetino-s 

Oetorer^Tlr'TJ"  '"'^f  "'""  """''■"°''  "'  ^t.  Paul  during 
Ucto  ei,  1S49.     I  be  work  was  commenced  under  a  disnens-i 
t.on   ron,  the  grand  lodge  of  Ohio.     The  lodge  now     I  crs 
abou   one  hundred  n.embers.     A  grand  lodge  L  the  te  ,"    r  - 
■as  also  been  o,-gani.ed  and  holds  its  meetings  in  St  iCul' 
1  us  body  was  incorporated  by  act  of  the  legislat  re  dm"   g 
te    ate  scssron.     St.  P.aul  lodge,  and  all  the  other  lodge   of 
the  tevrrtory  now  work  under  the  jurisdiction  and  autto  ity 
of  the  g,.and  lodge  of  Minnesota.    A  second  lodge  is  about  o 
be  rns  .tuted  here      The  order  is  in  a  prosperous  a,  d    ,H,ly 

tbauty  and  material  good  among  tbe  brethren. 

insH  ',^erhl°sf  >°/  •i'lr'-'l'""'-"  onUr  of  odd-fellows  was 
institute,!  in  St.  Paul,  M.ay  3,  1850,  by  .John  O    P„tt.  F, 

oi  Galena,  D.  D.  G.  S.  for  Minneso,a-a  charter  having  pt;-' 


•  ,J 


ST.    V.UL.  jgj 

ously  been  oI,tain.,l  for  ll,i,  purpose  from  tl,o  gr«„,l  M„,  ..f 
the  l,„„o,l  8,a,os.     It  ,„„U  „,„  name  of  ••  St.  I'L,  Wge!  Ko 

■'^  "/-■"'-T-     St.  I'a„l  I„.lgo  1,„,  been  i„  a  ilourisb- 

»   m„l   b.gbly  prosperous  co„<litio„  since  its  organisation 
J  he  0  were  only  nine  ebarter  members.      It   „„,^  „„mbe 
o-gbty  members,  among  whieli  are  six  I'  Gs 

"Hennepin  Lodge,  No.  4,"  was  institnto.l  Jnne  3    1858 
wjtl    hvc  charter  me.nbers.     It  „„w  numbers  abo  t  fLy,  of 
.  wluch  five  are  P.  Gs.     Tbis  lodge  is  also  in  flne  ooju.r 

bers  o(  the  two  lodges  and  between  the  brethren  individually 
Ihe,r  work  .s  carefully  done,  and  would  be  highly  ered    ab  J 
to  what    .are    usually   termed    •■  country   lodges"   any      e,e 

*«.ef/;,::- :rLpt™;rr  i"'  i^^r'"^'",  '"'■  '■"  ""■' '"""- 

m  .be  ,„„.,,„ry,  .and  numbers  twenty-eight  o'r  thirty' nembe.s 

bio  ,nte,est  IS  taken  here  n,  the  adv.ancemeut  and  ,n„speritv 
of  tins  too.often-neglecf5d  branch  of  the  order      II„„     ,1 

:'« ;;  ait';.^''^' "  ""^".'"""" »--"  ^"  «'■  ^•-'  -> 

i'.stitntedatSt.Paul-aeirerf     ;'!    "'    M-n'-'^ota,"   was 
*;;.,ed  ,at  U,e  ,astin:,afr^:- JT,: --^^^  ''-" 


fi 


Presbyterian  church.     The  first  d 


jn  atteiulance,  of  whom  two  only  werj  wl 
iier  first  session  of  tl 


ay,  site  had 


1111)0  gcholars 


lite.s.     At  tlio  end  of 


•rce  months,  her  school  nnmhorod  tliirty 


i>  ;l 


1  'i'  i 


«   i   ' '  ' 
1 1^' 


I      f> 


! 


I 


ffii 


i;32 


MINNKtvolA    AMI    11>    lillx  »i  ii'.'|.;>. 


Mcliolais,  ji  ninjority  of  whom  were  not  very  distantly  related 
to  the  aborij^ines  of  the  country. 

1848. — iJuring  the  summer  of  this  year  a  sclioolhouse  was 
built  in  the  upper  town,  and  a  school  onnnenced  therein  by 
]\Ii.ss  Jiishop  in  Noveml)er,  which  was  continued  during  the 
winter,  with  an  average  attendance  of  thirty  scholars. 

1849. — A  schoolhouse  Avas  l)uilt  in  the  lower  town,  and  two 
schools  were  taught  during  the  fall  by  ]\Iiss  liishop  and  M'ish 
Mary  A.  Scotield  rcs])ectively.  These  schools  were  continued 
(luring  the  Avinter,  and  the  Rev.  i\Ir.  llobart  also  opened  and 
taught  a  school  for  a  short  time  in  the  methodist  church.  The 
number  of  scholars  in  attendance  during  this  Avinter  was  one 
hundred  and  twenty. 

I80O. — Misses  Bishop  and  Scofield  united  their  schools  and 
taught  the  fore  part  of  the  summer  sixty  scholars.  During 
their  July  vacation  ]).  A.J.  Baker  commenced  a  school,  which 
drew  off  part  of  their  scholars,  and  the  school  Avas  afterAvard 
conducted  by  Miss  Bishop.  The  free  public  schools  were 
organized  in  the  fall  of  1850,  and  Mr.  Baker  Avas  em})loyed  to 
teach  the  loAver  school,  and  Mr.  Henry  Doolittlc  the  upper. 
A  school  Avas  also  started  at  the  episcopal  mission,  numbering 
about  fifteen  jmpils.  The  Avliole  number  of  scholars  attending 
school  this  year  Avas  nearly  two  hundred. 

18 ")1. — The  summer  schools  of  I80I  Avorc  four  in  number — 
tAvo  public  and  two  private.  Effect  Avas  given  to  the  school  Liav 
during  this  year  by  the  appointment  of  a  superintendent  in 
N(»vember,  Avho,  in  conformity  Avith  the  laAv,  selected  and 
recommended  a  uniform  series  of  books  for  the  use  of  the 
public  schools  throughout  the  territory.  This  and  other  meas- 
ures of  the  superintendent  gave  economy  and  increased  efli- 
ciency  to  the  pul)lic  schools  of  our  city,  and  they  have  since 
progressed  ra])id]y  both  in  iucioase  of  numbcups  and  attain- 
ments of  the  scholars.  The  recommendations  of  the  superin- 
tendent having  been  unanimously  adopted  throughout  the  city, 
the  public  schools  Avent  into  operation  under  the  charge  of  ]\Ir. 
George  II.  Spencer,  assisted  by  JMiss  Bass,  and  the  late  ]\Ir.  J?. 
B.  Ford,  assisted   bv  ^liss  Brewster.     The  mission  school   and 


-* 

.-'S 


the   priA'ate   school   of  ]\iiss    Bishop    wei'o   continued    with    in 


SI.    I'M  I.. 


l.i.'J 


Til 


creascMl   pntronnp^o,  mid  two  cjitlK.lic  scIiooIh  wcit  opcnod 

one  ill  tlio,  Imscnioiit  of  tlip  clnircli,  for  l>oy.s ;  and  the  otlicr  by 
tlio  sisters  of  cliarity.  Tlie  imniljer  of  seliolars  in  altcndaiico 
at  all  of  these  schools  wns  not  far  from  three  luiiidrcd. 

18o2.--During  the  past  year,  and  especially  the  past  winter, 
we  have  had  occasion  to  visit  some  of  the  pni)lic  schools  of  our 
city,  and  have  uniformly  admired  the  eillciency  of  the  teachers 
and  the  scholarship  of  the  pupils.  A  graminar-school,  which 
was  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Hrst  and  second  districts,  was 
successfully  conducted  by  George  H.  Spencer,  who  had  an 
average  attendance  of  seventy  pupils.  Our  primary  schools 
have  been  equally  well  attended  and  as  successfully  conducted. 
Jackson  street  school,  No  1,  was  taught  by  Miss  Bishop;  No. 
2,  by  Miss  Sorin.  Walnut  street  school.  No.  1,  was  taught  by 
Miss  Merrill  ;  No.  2,  by  JMiss  Esson.  The  catholic  and  epis- 
copal schools  were  continued  as  usual,  and  the  whole  Mimber 
of  scholars  in  attendance  at  all  the  schools  was  over  four  hun- 
dred. 

^  In  the  month  of  January,  185,^,  an  impulse  was  given  to  educa- 
tion in  the  city,  by  the  benevolence  of  M.  W.  Baldwin,  Esq.,  of 
Philadelphia.  The  Baldwin  school  edifice  wjis  dedicated  in  Decem- 
ber of  that  year.  Since  that  time,  this  institution  has  been  a 
favorite  with  the  people  of  St.  Paul. 

In  1854,  the  Parochial  School  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Itihcldaifer  was 
established. 

In  the  same  year,  a  School  was  commenced  under  the  auspices 
of  Hev.  Dr.  Van  Ingen,  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church. 

A  School  is  in  successful  operation  at  the  Catholic  Church,  under 
the  auspices  of  that  denomination.     It  is  largely  attended. 

The  Public  Schools  in  th"s  city  at  present  arc-  well  attended  and 
managed.  A  law  was  passed  by  the  last  Legislature,  designed  to 
promote  their  efficiency. 

The  College  of  St.  Paul  promises  to  be  the  most  prominent 
educational  institution  in  our  city.  It  is  the  outgrowth  of  the  male 
department  of  the  Baldwin  School,  and  was  chartered  by  the  Lecris- 
lature,  in  1854.  The  Trustees  of  this  institution,  have  erccted^in 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  building  sites  in  St.  Paul,  a  handsome 


m\ 


134 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    llESoUKCEa. 


> 


p™.,oaI  .i„„,,o  .„yoe.  will  bo  UWive  "u'L"!  li'r,::;  sT 
^3  the  wants  of  tho  Tastitution  (lomin.!  nflior  «Tfl 

i"  "  survey  of  ,I,is  vc^ion  ,v  "T     f"''*'"^'''  «"'P«.  0"S.-.K..I 

t/atlin  111  tlic  old  pottf  nff  «.^.,      X'  ITT.  .  i     y  oouu 

snn-lvf.ll     ^^,    '^  "^'^'^-"^  gear  of  Wisconsin  — it  would  nccos- 

t..o':  r  ,.f  2";';r\7  -'^  '■'-»' --l-  -..lannn, 

J    I'.iii    or    tiio    tall,  the   nimnwnients  woi-p    ro   f..v 
t  ion  1,0,  ,o_t„  p„,cl,,-,so  i„-,.ss  a,„I  m.atoi-ials.     Wi„torsetti„<- 

o  •„        "  J  ca,„vl„l„  he  awaitod  the  is.suo  of  tho  bill  to 

«.ga,„ze  tl,e  to,Tito,y,  the,,  pon,li„g  before  Con.,.e.,      I    ,hl 
no   ,,a«j  „„t,    the  lart  ,l„y  of  ,ho  ^o^^io,,.     Vy  M^Z,o  R  , 

pit    ':iL';"1'"'°"  r  ^^'  "P  '"^  "«-  "'  Cincinnati.       Uh'e" 

Co  I ;;  e;;"hir':,:,;"^  '"'"-■  ^  ""'■"■"'■»''■" "-'  "<-• 

uLAAten    inm   and   the   present   senior  editor  of  th^ 

.0,."  ;ara:,in'"i  :::,"''•"''";  f  ."•;;■  ^'--"'-^ ««.- 

nM„ij  Lssnci— yvv/./,,/  ,„  (,'n)fii!n;,ti,  it  is  tnie, 


I? 


136 

!;::  ;^:;;l::^;;•^;i::;'l^::!:;^:^;---;'r'W  bo..e  the 

■  '1.0  press  and  „„,e,.ial,  were  aLLi  to  Sf  P   'l       Tf 
"f  .'..e  cholera,  and  did  „„t  arrh e        '  a te  h  a'"* "'?ri '•' 

Owens.     Quay  continued  two  or  three  weeks  ,  d  he        • 
.1-ati»fied,  ,nit  the  concern  and  the  ^Zy  '  """"""' 

Ihe  Chronich,  and  Kogister  was  continued  by  M'Lenn  * 
w„ns  w,th  growing  prospects  of  success,  nn.i,  jl  foUo     n^ 

mossed  the  conlid,.,„.e  "A  ,„.":""'?'  "'?  'f  "'""'T.  »nd  pos- 


lice  of  tlio  friends  of  tlio, id. 
nnanunnnslj.      At   thi.  tin.c    McLean,  hav 


previousl_>-  licoi.  a])poiutea  Iiul 


inimstratioii  almo.st 
iiig   sonic  niontJis 


V'»rti 
I'     I 

l4i 


an  agent,  became  iinwilliner  ( 


g  to 


i.'Jrt 


MINXKSOIA    AMI    H.H    KLSol  lUJKH. 


contuiuo  tlu,  l,u.s.nc..s  longer.     Tl.c  ostaLllslnncnt  was  boM  to 
Ihixul  OliMHtcl.  a  (UMuocT.-it.     Ounu   woi.t  .„.t  with  M'Loni.  • 
«...I  il.nin;,^  ti.e  ivAv  months  which  (Jhust.d  owm.mI  tho  cstub^ 
.shment,  the  paper  had  dim-rent  editors  at  diircreut  ..eriods 
I  m-t  ot  the  tune  it  edited  itself. 

In  Noveinher.  1).  A.  Kohertsou  arrived  with  his  press,  and 
'.•.riy  the  (.)Ih,winp:  month  issued  the  first  nund.er  of  the 
'  Mmne.ota  D.Mnon-at."  About  this  time  C.  J.  Jleuniss,  for- 
'Hu-ly  ot  l'hihi,l,dphia,  became  the  owner  of  the  dhn.nitde 
"Id  Ref,Mster.  'J'he  printing  -vas  divided  between  the  I'ioneer 
md  anrwu./og  o//h:e,  to  bo  established  the  folh.wing  spring. 
>nt  oMhis  butter  cstablishn.ent  grew  the  "  Minnesotian."    The 

(hronude  and  Register  went  down -the  presses  and  materials 
j)assing  into  tlie  hands  of  Uobertsou. 

The  iirst  number  cf  the  Minnesotian  was  issued  Septem- 
b.T  17,  J8r>!.  Its  publicati  )n  was  eomme-^ced  by  a  co.runittee 
--.1.  I  .Owens  liaving  charge  of  tho  editorial,  and  J.  C  'JVmtv 
the  UMwhanical  department.  The  Gth  of  January  folluwin.^ 
liH'  ("stabl.shment  passed  into  the  bands  of  Owens  &  Moore. 
A\  liere  it  still  continues. 

The  I>ioneor  continued  in  the  hands  of  its  original  proprietor 
till  the  day  of  his  death,  which  occurred  in  August,  1852.  He 
was  succoodod  by  his  brother  Isaac  N.  Goodhue,  who  filled  tho 
editorial  chair  until  the  following  spring,  when  the  establishment 
passed  itito  the  hands  of  Joseph  11.  Brown,  Esq.  This  gentleman 
conducted  it  with  marked  ability  for  about  one  year,  when  ho 
associated  with  him  Mr.  Earlc  S.  Goodrich,  of  Wisconsin.  Tho 
establishment  still  continues  in  their  hands. 

In  May,  1854,  the  Minnesota  Weekly  Times  was  commenced  by 
Messrs.  T.  M.  Newson,  Mitchell  &  Co.,  ana  is  still  continued. 

In  September,  1854,  The  Saint  Paul  Financial,  and  Real  Estate 
Advertiser,  was  issued  by  Charles  H.  Parker,  Esq.,  and  continued 
until  the  following  sprin'r. 

In  January,  1S5G,  it  was  again  issued  under  the  name  of  tho  St. 
Paul  Financial,  Real  Estate,  and  Railroad  Advertiser;  increased 
to  more  than  double  size,  and  is  published  by  Messrs.  C.  H.  Parker 
and  James  AV.  Winslow. 

l-n  the  fall  of  1855,  a  weekly  Herman  paper  was  issued,  anc  is 
edited  and  published  by  F,  Ortlnvein,  Eso. 


ST.    PAUL. 


137 


In  January,  1851,  Tho  D.-.kota  Tawaxitkukin  or  Dakota  Friend 
a  monthly  sheet,  printo.l  in  tho  Dakota  and  English  h.ngua.crwa^ 

ZTu  ,  '  T  'f^'\''^-^^'  «^'  >Ii-ions^  It  wa's  edited  l" 
Kcv.  (..  If  Pond,  and  continued  for  about  two  year.,  when  :iinf' 
to^a.o.^l.h    tho   purpose    f.r   which   it  was^designe^ it  ^ 

ur  uty  8  nee  LSoO.     J  hey  wore  issued  in  tho  following  order  :-l. 

^.  Deno,.rat;    6    Dakota  Friend;  7.  Minnesotian;  8.  Times-  9 
S.uut  J  uu  llMnaneial,  and  Ileal  Estate  Advertiser;  10.  The  Weekly 
German    I'apor;    II.  Free    ^ros^  •    ^o    c*    p     ,        •iucytcKiy 

M,„nc.o.,a„,  Ti„..,  ,,„a„cial,  Ucul  Estate  „„,,  UailroaJ  AJ     Z  ; 
ana  the  Gcrn,a„  Paper,  are  still  contiuued  with  good  succosa. 

THE   SAINT   PAUL   DAILY   PRESS. 

For  more  than  two  years   past  St.  Paul   supported  four  daily 
papers  and  in  October,  1855,  no  less  than/.,  were  in  existence    "^ 

On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  3Iay,  1854,  The  Daily  PloPcer 
made  ,ts  appc^-anee    by  Messrs.  I3rown  and  Goodrich,  and  was 
ntmucd  till  November,  1855,  when  it  was  united  to 'the  Da^W 
Democrat,  under  the  name  of  Daily  Pioneer  and  Democrat,  which 
I.S  still  continued.     The  Daily  Democrat  was  issued  on  the  2v 
noon  of  May  1    1854,  by  David  Olmstead-who  succeeded  DA 
obertson  in  the  Democrat  estabiishment  in  the  summer  of  185¥ 
He  was  succeeded  la  his  turn  by  C.  L.  Emerson,  in  the  winter    f 

!A       u  J^T^         '"°"^'''  ""^^''^  ^^'  P^P^'^  P««««^^  ^'Qto  the  hands 
of  Joseph  R.  Brown,  who  had  previously  left  the  Pioneer  establish 
ment,^and  was  continued  by  him  u.  -  ifwas  united  with  utSli!; 

bv  m'  ^*"  ^'""^  ^«"{  Times  was  issued  on  the  15th  of  May,  1854 
by  M.ssrs.  Newson,  Mitchell,  &  Co.;  T.  M.  Newson,  editor     ^e 

^::Z^''  ''  ''-  ^^^-^  -'  ''  '■  ^'-^^^  ^^^^^ 

The  Daily  Minnesotian  was  issued  aboat  the  20th  of  May,  1854 

\wS   n"r  '"'u'^"^'  "'°  ^^^"  ^-^--  ^*^  publicain.      ' 
Ihe  fifth  Daily  cstabhshcd  was  the  Free  Press,  October  1,  1855, 


1^ 


'  'I 


138 


mNNESOTA   AND   ITS  RESOURCES, 


by  A.  C.  Smith,  Esq.,  who  continued  its  publication  until  May  3, 

The  people  of  Minnesota  are  remarkable  for  the  liberality  with 
which  they  support  their  local  newspapers.  The  threu  establish- 
inents  of  St.  Paul  all  appear  to  be  doing  a  prosperous  business, 
ihe  aggre^rate  investment  in  printing  offices  in  this  place  amounts 
to  about  $50,000.  Of  the  influence  of  the  Press,  and  its  energy 
and  usefulness  in  developing  the  resources  and  advantages  of 
Minnesota,  too  much  cannot  be  said. 


REAL  ESTATE,    ETC. 

Vacant  houses  arc  hard  to  find,  and  consequently  rents  are  very 
high.     A  small  shop  or  office,  fifteen    by  twenty  feet  square,  on 
any  of  the  improved  streets,  will  rent  readily  at  twenty-fivo  dollare 
per  month.    A  one-story  building,  situated  in  any  part  of  the  town 
containing  four  rooms,  each  say  twelve  feet  square,  with  or  without 
a  cellar,  pump,  or  cistern,  will  rent  for  from  twenty  to  thirtv  dollars 
per  month.    As  a  general  rule,  the  rent  of  a  small  dwellin-  for  two 
years  wilJ  pay  the  cost  of  its  building.     Rents  cannot  fall  until 
the  supply  more   nearly  approximates  the   increasing  demand  for 
tenements.     The  lumber  and    building-material   market   is   mtch 
better  stocked  than  some  time  ago,  so  that  the  pressing  demand  for 
buildings  will  be  more  readily  supplied.     Buildings  are  erected  in 
St.  Paul  with  telegraphic  rapidity.     If  one  makes  a  trip  to  the 
country  on  a  fishing  or  hunting  excursion,  he  is  astonished  on  his 
return  at  the  number  of  buildings  and  shanties  commenced  and 
completed  during  his  absence. 

Many  economical  persons,  with  families,  knock  together,  as  soon 
as  they  land,  a  rude  shanty,  in  which  they  live  quite  comfortably 
until  a  better  building  can  be  erected,  and  thus  avoid  the  expense 
of  high  rent. 

Eligibly-situated  property  in  St.  Paul  has  more  than  doubled 
in  value  each  year  for  the  past  four  years,  and  we  have  no 
doubt  but  much  of  it  will  continue  to  advance  at  a  similar  rate  for 
the  next  two  years.  It  may  reasonably  be  estimated  that  our  popu- 
lation  and  improvements  have  increased  sixty  per  cent.  durin<^  the 
present  year.  ^' 


BT.    PAUL. 


139 


About  eight  years  ago,  the  land  upou  which  this  city  is  located 
was  purchased  at  the  United  States'  land  office  at  the  usual 
government  price  of  one  dollar  and  a  quarter  per  acre.  Before 
that  period  the  entire  tract  was  held  by  no  other  title  than 
squatters'  claims. 

A  number  of  town  lots  have  changed  hands  since  the  openin- 
of  navigation  at  prices  ranging  from  five  hundred  to  twenty"- 
three  thousand  dollars.  The  lots  are  usually  fifty  feet  front 
by  one  hundred  and  fifty  deep.  Those  which  have  been  sold 
for  five  hundred  dollars  each  are  located  in  the  additions  to  the 
original  town-p  at.  On  the  squares  immediately  around  the  capitol, 
the  owners  of  the  lots  located  there  are  asking  over  fifteen  hundred 
aolJ.'.is  per  lot. 

In  approaching  the  conclusion  of  this  rough  and  imporft'ctly- 
sketched  picture  of  St.  Paul,  wo  must  arrive  at  the  further  b.it 
c-ousistent  concliKsion  that  a  high  and  glorious  position  among 
the  commercial  and  manufacturing  marts  of  the  great  western 
valley  is  rapidly  approaching  her.  In  fact,  it  may  be  said  to 
be  already  upon  her. 

I  have  endeavored  to  present  St.  Paul  as  it  now  is  The 
JHstoncal  i-en.iniscenccs  thrown  into  the  background  are  gen- 
erally derived  from  personal  observation -.;^o.^  -of  Mhiclf we 
saw  and  part  of  which  we  wore."  The  statistical  results  ar- 
rived at  have  chiefly  been  furnished  by  reliable  citizens,  and 
will  be  found  correct  in  the  main.  Some  inaccuracies  will  be 
lound  embodied  in  this  sketch,  but  there  are  none  of  any  great 
or  material  magnitude.  J  h  ^  *> 

J!i!V^''f-  f'^'"^  .'''''  ^'"'^  *"  "^'"^^  *^'^  ^^^•^'^"g^'*  acquainted 

11  1  ^  '''''^'  '^'''  immigrant,  when  he  arrives,  to 

know  where  he  is-among  whom  he  is-and  what  prospects 

of  success  await  him  by  remaining  with  us.     Also  the  eompi- 

a  ion  of  historical  and  statistical  data,  as  the  foundation  of 

e  "'oVtl  "'i'"  '^T'^^''''^''  "^  ''^^'^'^  ''  '^'^  «"^-^-d  prog, 
ic  s  of  this  predestined  emporium  of  the  northwest.  If  what 
IS  here  written  and  eoi.piled  should  never  be  of  future  ule  to 
wu.clves,  pcrnaps  it  may  be  of  some  slight  aid  to  those  who 
nic  to  come  after  us.     1  thus  take  leave  of  St.  Paul  at  the 


I 


^:. 


itlkl 


51  'i  v>  : 


«.. 


140 


MINNESOTA   AND    ITS    KIJSOUIiCKS. 


opening  of  the  business  season  of  the  year  1856.     "  There  she 
stands ! 

One  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  Minnesota,  and  one 
that  most  who  have  come  into  the  territory  I,ave  seen  and  ad- 
m  red  hes  between  St.  Paul  and  St.  Anthony.  It  is  composed 
fo     he  most  part  of  prairie  and  openings ;  and.  after  a  tedious 

dellTi^.  f'T'f    '^"  ^^  '^''  ""^^'  '  '-''^^  «^'^^  this  region  is 
ehghtfu    indeed,  especially  when  one  has  become  weary  of 

^ottom^rrT  '"'T""";  '^'^^"^^  "^^  denscly-tin.bered  river 
bo    oms  that  have  boun^led   the  vision  for  several  hundred 

bv  tl  ;  ,^^''^T7"  '^'''"''  ^°"^^  ^''  '^  ^^"'-^"g-^  "^  the  scene 
by  the  tune  he  lands  at  St.  Paul;  and  if  he  will  but  stop  into 

rM  of'  r  :'''"^"'  ''''^'''  ^'"'^^^'^  ^"  readiness  on  the 
amval  of  a  boat  to  carry  him  to  the  great  falls  of  the  Father 
of  Waters,  he  will  soon  be  gratified.     In  a  few  minutes  he  will 

iZf  ''^Z  !>'  ^'"'''^"^  1"'"'^-^^'  '^'''  commences  about  one 
m  Ic  from  St.  Paul,  and  extends  nearly  half  way  to  St.  Anthony 
and  several  miles  northward.     How  invigorating  the  air  feels 

hat  comes  over  the  flowery  plain,  or  the  large  fields  of  grain 
and  ccn-n!     The  new-comer  here  seems  to  breathe  with  fresh 
Uehght,  and  he  feels  better  and   stronger  than  ever  befoi 
Here  and  there  a  little  gem  of  a  lake  meets  the  view.     Culti- 

moi.  1     l""^  i-pvoved  farms  now  appear  quite  numerous, 
among  winch  ,s  one  owned  by  ex-Governor  Kamsey,  contain- 
ing  some  two  hundred  and  forty  acres  under  in.provement. 
e.fon  1  ^''"'T  "'  "T  T"'^'^'  '""'^  *^^"  "P^"^"S-«  commence  and 

num  /n      ^''  "^"'^""^^  "*^-     ^''"-"^^  ^^^-  «rrear  more 

numerous,  while  most  of  the  land  on  either  side  of  the  road  is 

undei-  improvement.     In  a  cluster  of  trees,  just  as  we  enter  the 
bcaiitiful  opening,  stands  a  neat,  newly-erected  building,  which 
painly  tolls  that  the  "schoolmaster  is  abroad"  in  Minnesota. 
Many  of  the  farms  in  this  neighborhood  are  quite  small,  after 
the  New  Lngland  fashion,  and  the  land  is  held  at  high  m-ices 
hardening  is  carried  on  quite  extensively  by  many,  and  o-reat 
quantities  of  vegetables,  melons,  &c.,  are  raised 'for  thf St 
1  aul  and  St.  Anthony  markets.     The  soil  and  situation  of  this 
place  arc  both  remarkably  well  adapted  to  horticultural  pur- 


HT.    J'AUI OIJITLAUY    NOTICK. 


141 


«uit.s.     Tho  r,u;tntity  and  .juality  of  melons  and  tomatoes  raised 
here  are  q„Ue  surpri.sing  to  persons  from  the  east 

thi^;CVMrt\;"ri::;"^"r-^^  '--''  o;taUisI.ed  in 

Scott^urserya  ]te  nor  .""'  """"'T  "'''  *^^^ 
x,.„  1     ,  J^Hvcnpoit,  loua,  lie  is  prepared  to  furnisli 

n,es  and  i,l„n,»  t„  „„y  „!,„  ,vi.h  .„  plant  orcWds  „"  eX 
l..n.  p,,n„,lH,     Kn,it.t,.ccs  grown  in  tl.is  ten-itcy  C„l 
11  be  ,n  , b,,,aud  (■,„■  ,,l„„,i„g  ,„„„  ,,;,,„„^^  ^  y    ""^ 

the  so,  an,  cl,n,a.„  ,„•.  ..„lcuia,e,l  ,o  p..„*,cc  very  l.a.-dy  "J^cT 
^  Moxt  oUl,„  conntry  lying  between  St.  l'a„l  and  St  Ant  ont' 
.»  known  by  tl,o  m„nc  of  "Grovoland."  which  i,  o,  i.t  ^   „T 

cr,:,;;:::; ' '" '"-'  "^'"«  ^■"''■'^ '» '--<'«''  -""i 


In  connection  uit],  tliis  liistory  of  St  P-inl  n,ul  if.  «« 
TOSS  T  i.r<.«nnf  fi      f  ^^      -       ^  "^  ^^"^  newspapcr 

loss,  1  pu-soiit    I.c  f<dIow,ng  article  from  the  annals  of    he 
IinncHota  Ilistor  c;il  Socictv  fnv  ir^q  i  ">ijiajb  or   uie 

tary,  the  Ilev.  10.  i).  Neill  • i     i       ^  "y  i"t  secie- 


V 
U 


OBrrc.uv  ^ox,c.,:  ok  m.k.  m.  ooo.h.k,  ..tk  ...run  op  .he 

MINNKSOTA    I'/ONEER." 

••  The  bojly  that  o„,.o  encased  the  mind  of  James  M  Good 

';;:  ;»  ■'?    -"««'■  ^ ^  •'■.*  awell,  in  „  na™.  I^ise  Tht 

Z       ■"■'■?'  *'"■'"'"■     ^"'"  ''«  ""^'l  '»  h,-ea.he,  h  s  v'a  „! 
>  tl  e  co„„,„,„,ty  wa»  not  f.dly  known.     In  life,  he  was  vilwed 

icieita.     in  death,  it  is  discovered  that  lie  was  the  indJvi.lnnI 
above  a  1  o.iiers,  who  had  pi-otnotcd  tlie  gene,:     ^  „f 
Minnesota,  and  especially  that  of  the  capital. 

"In  Apiil    m'.KW,  fonnd  St.  Paid  nothing  move  than  •. 

o„t,er  I„,l,an.t.-„di„g  settlement,  known  by  U,„  savages  as 
be  place  where  they  could  obtain  m»„c.i„,  or  "Set 
.nd  wholly  luiknown  to  the  civili.ed  world.  Wleu  Im  died' 
,v,h  the  sword  of  hi,  pen  he  had  carved  a  name  a  d  "ep,  t 
,on  or  St.  Pan  ,  an,  1,„  lived  long  enough  to  hear  meni- ,1 
a  Old  and  say  ,hat  ll,e  ,lay  was  coming  when  schoolboys  wonhT 
learn  f,om  tlie.r  g,.ognipl,y  „,„t  t,,„  „,i,j  ^.  e„^,~ 


if 


!     ' 


142 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    KESOUKCKS. 


importance,  on  the  banks  of  the  miglity  Mississippi,  was  St, 
Taiil.     His  most  bitter  opponents  were  convinced,  wl 


atever 
ncsota 


miglit  be  bis  conduct  toward  tbem,  that  be  loved  Min 
with  all  bis  heart,  all  his  mind,  and  all  his  might. 

"  The  editor  of  the  '  Pioneer'  was  unlike  other  men.     Every 
notion,  and  every  line  be  wrote  marked  great  individuality. 
He  could  imitate  no  man  in  bis  manners  nor  in  bis  style,  nei- 
ther could  any  man  imitate  bim.     Attempts  were  sometimes 
made,  but  the  ^ailurts  was  always  very  great.     Impetuous  as 
the  wbn-lwind,  with  perceptive  powers  that  gave  to  his  mind 
the  eye  of  a  lynx,  with  a  vivid  imagination  that  made  the  very 
Ht.)nes  of  ]\rinnesota  speak  her  praise,  with  an  intellect  as  vig- 
orous and  clastic  as  a  Damascene  blade,  be  penned  editorial's 
which  the  people  of  this  territory  can  never  blot  out  from 
iiKimory. 

"His  wit,  when  it  was  chastened,  caused  ascetics  to  laugh. 
His  sarcasm  upon  tlio  foibles  of  society  was  paralyzing  and  un- 
erpialled  by  Macaulay  in  his  review  of  the  life  of  Barrere.    His 
iMiagmation  produced  a  tale  of  fiction  called  '  Striking  a  Lead,' 
which  has  already  become  a  part  of  the  light  literature  of  the 
>vest.     When,  in  the  heat  of  partisan  warfare,  all  the  qualities 
ot  his  mind  were  combined  to  defeat  certain  measures,  the  col- 
"mns  of  bis  paper  were  like  a  ten-ific  storm  in  midsummer  amid 
the  Alps.     One  sentence  would  be  like  the  dazzling,  arrowy 
lightning,  peeling  in  a  moment  the  mountain-oak,  and  rivin.^ 
from  the  topmost  branch  to  the  deepest  root;  the  next  like  a 
crash  of  awful  thunder;  and  the  next  like  the  stunning  roar 
of  a  torrent  of  many  waters.     To  employ  the  remark  made  in 
a  discourse  at  his  funeral  — '  With  the  ingenuity  of  Vulcan,  he 
would  hammer  out  thunderbolts  on  the  anvil  of  bis  mind,  and 
burl  tbem  with  the  power  and  dexterity  of  Jove !' 

"  The  contrarieties  of  bis  character  often  increased  his  force 
Imagining  bis  foes  to  be  Cossacks,  he  often  dashed  among 
them  with  all  the  recklessness  of  Murat.  The  fantastic  mag- 
nificence of  his  pen,  when  in  those  moods,  was  as  appalling  in 
Its  temerity  as  the  white  ostvich-feather  and  glittering-  gold 
uand  of  Napoleon's  famed  marshal. 
"His  prejudice  was  inveterate  against  sham  and  claj  trap. 


ST.    PAUL OBITUAKY    NOTICE. 


143 


He  refused  to  publisli  many  of  the  miserable  advertisements 
of  those  quacks  Avho  seek  to  palm  off  their  nostrums  upon  young 
men  diseased  through  their  own  vices.  When  a  '  stroller'  for 
a  living,  or  a  self-dubbed  professor,  came  to  town,  he  sported 
with  him  as  the  Philistines  with  blind  Samson.  By  sarcasm 
and  ridicule,  '  Jarley  with  his  wax-works'  was  made  to  de- 
camp. 

''  When  he  was  unjustifiably  harsh,  his  apology  was  that  in 
the  '  .Aledea'  of  Euripides  :—  ^  i       fe^ 

•MnriMiano  men  hoia  (Iran  niello  kaka 
Tlunnos  de  kreidsona  tone  emone  bonleiimatone.' 

He  was  not  hypocritical;  he  never  wore  a  mask.  His  edi- 
torials showed  all  he  felt  at  the  hour  they  were  dashed  from 
his  pen.  When  untrammelled  by  self-interest  orpavty-ties,  his 
sentiments  proved  that  he  was  a  man  that  was  often  ready  to 
exclaim : —  *' 

•Vitleo  meliora  proboque 
Dcteriora  sequor.' 

"As  a  paragrnphist,  he  was  equalled  by  few  living  men. 
His  sentences  so  leaped  with  life,  that  when  the  distant  reader 
perused  his  sheet,  he  seemed  to  hear  the  purling  brooks  and 
see  the  agate  pavements  and  crystal  waters  of  the  lakes  of 
Minnesota;  and  he  longed  to  leave  the  sluggish  stream,  the 
deadly  malaria,  and  wornout  farms,  and  begin  life  anew  in 
the  territory  of  the  sky-tinted  waters.  When  the  immigrant 
from  week  to  week  was  disposed  to  despond,  and  give  way  to 
tlio  distress  of  homesickness,  the  hopeful  sentences  of  hia  paper 
in  relation  to  the  prosperous  future,  chased  tbat  dismal  feelin- 
away.  *' 

9i"i^l'n  '^'^r.''"''^  ''"'  ^^''"  '''  ^^"^^'""'  ^^^'^^'  Hampshire,  March 
-il,  ISIO.  His  parents  possessed  the  strong  faith  and  stern 
virtue  of  the  puritans,  and  felt  that  an  education  was  the 
greatest  treasure  they  could  give  their  children.  Aft(.r  pas- 
sing through  preparatory  studies,  he  entered  Amherst  colk-e 
^vheve  he  listened  to  the  lectures  of  the  distinguished  goolooist 


Hitchcock  and  other  devout 
he  received  a  diploma  from  tl 


men  (A  Kcience.     In  the  year  1S;]2 
lat  instihUion.     It  was  his  desire 


li   4 


I 


[  1  i  ^ ' 


144 


MINNKsoTA     AND    lis    i; 


I'^SonaJKH. 


"  I'avn.f;  Mu.lio.l  l.nv,  ],c  ciitcrcl  „,,„„  M,„  ,„■,,,:,„  „,•  ,),. 
nt  till 


isconsiii. 


AVliilo  rcsidiiiir 


tinted    waters'    (Minm.sotn^        Wwi.     .i       •    ^  ^  '>     "*  '^'^} 
c\  it  ;;        1'=  ""'ved  ,,t  tl,e  l,,„,li„g.  „f  ,vl,„,, ,-.,  „„„  „,„ 

m   :      -.n  .T'    '  ""''. ''"'"  ■""■■''  '"»'"->'  "'"1  '•<'-  »".o 


<<  < 


THK    riKST    DAVS    OF    THE    TOWN    OP    ST.    PAUL 


'''The  ISth  dny  of  April,  1849.  .vas   a  raw,  dondy  dnv 
1     .  stea.nboat   'VSonator,"  Captain   Snu'tl..  la  de  ]       ' 

o.niLd  but  one  pel:'  ./ 1 ti;.^:;^^  ^'^'r'  "^  ^•^^■ 

types  and  printing  apparatus,  .^  ;"    Wen^  ""'.f  "^'^^ 

";en  to  the  honse  of  m!-.  E.ss,  corned       Thir^       1  j'V 
greets.       le  kept  the  onl,  pnblic  honse  in  St  vl     '^Z 
was  crowded  full  f.om  cellar  to  garret      Mr    71, 
obli8•in.^  and  did  evorythino-  possible  ft  n  ''"'  '"'^'^ 

The  n<.t  thin,  was  J^rlu^^^^^.  lZ:Tr''7'''- 
possible  to  obfni..      Ttr.;,7.  .7.,.^ ..         :  ''"''  *^"'  '^  «^^^"^<^^1 


.1111.     I\rado  tl 


im- 


'e  ac(juan)t;iiico  of  0.  P.  V.  Lull 


ST.    PATTL OIUTI'ARV    NOTICK. 


145 


and  his  partner,  Gilbert.     They  furnished  m,  grntnitonsly,  tho 
lower  story  of  their  bnihliiif,',  for  an  office  —  the  only  vacant 
room  in  town ;  being  tho  building  on  Third  street,  since  fin- 
ished off  and  now  occnpied  as  a  saloon  by  Mr.  Calder.     The 
weather  was  cold  and  stormy,  and  our  office  was  as  open  as  a 
corn-rick  ;  however,  we  picked  our  types  up  .^nd  made  ready 
for  the  issue  of  the  first  paj)or  ever  printed  in  Minnesota  or 
within  many  hundreds  of  miles  of  it;  but  upon  search  we 
found    our   news-chase   was    left   behind.      William   Nobles, 
blacksmith,  made  us  a  very  good  one,  after  a  delay  of  two 
or  three  days.     'JMie  ])apor  was  to  be  named  "  The  Epistle  of 
St.  Paul,"  as  announcoti   in  our  prospectus,  published  in  the 
February  preceding;  but  we  found  so  many  little  saints  in 
the  territory,  jealous  of  St.  Paul,  that  we  determined  to  call 
our  paper  "  The  Minnesota  Pioneer."     One  hinderance  after 
another  delayed  our  first  issue  to  the  28th  of  April  — ten  days. 
Meantime,  Rev.  Mr.  Neill  arrived.     It  was  encouraging  to  find 
a  young  man  of  education  ready  to  enlist  all  that  he  had  or 
hoped  on  earth,  in  the  fortunes  of  our  town.     Stillwater  and 
St.  Paul  were  then  running  neck  and  neck,  as  rival  towns. 
Not,  a  foot  of  pine  lumber  could  be  had  nearer  than  Stillwater. 
But  about  this  time  one  of  the  mills  at  St.  Anthony  was  put  in 
operation  ;  but  there  were  then  only  a  few  buildings  at  the 
falls  of  St.  Anthony.     We  looked  about  St.  Paul  to  buy  a  lot. 
Mr.  Larpenteur's  house  was  built ;  also,  French's  house  and 
shop  (now  a  tin  shop),  and  the  little  shop,  then  the  drug-store 
of  Dewey  &  Oavileer,  recently  Major  J.  J.  Noah's  office,  next 
door  west  of  Calder's  (then  our  printing-office) ;  also  the  office 
of  Judge  Pierse  (then  the  fur  store  of  Olmsted  and  Rhodes). 
Mr.  Lambert's  house  was  partly  finished.     As  you  go  up  Third 
and  Bench  streets,  the  next  buildings  were  two  old  tamarac 
log-houses,  a  little  east  of  where  Mr.  Neill's  church  is ;  then 
passing  the  schoolhouse,  there  were  two  more  of  the  same  sort 
in  the  street,  in  front  of  the  houses  now  occupied  by  Mr.  Ben- 
son and  Mr.  Hollinshead  near  the  junction  of  St.  Anthony, 
Bench,  and  Hill  streets.     Beyond,  was  the  house   John  R. 
Irvine  lives  in,  and  nothing  else  but  the  symptoms  of  two  or 
three  balloon  frames.     The  Fullers  were  at  work  putting  up  a  « 


f       1 
i     ,7 


J- 


11 


III   ! 


:i: 


146 


M1NN]':S()TA    AND   ITS    lil-:S0URCE8. 


small  store  witli  tl 


was  tlie   old   iimli 


loir  own  htimh.     Rot 


111 


John  R.  I 


'i-«Touii(l   (lead-fall,  in  tl 


rvhic'H  liouHOj   then  at  ll 


Bench  streets,  %vns  Vctal  G 


ning,  on  tho  right, 

le    ground  oj)posite 

'c  juiK-tion  of  Third  and 


then  the  building  in  which  J\Ir.  ( 


iiorin's  log-houso  (now  Lo  Due's) 


hnished;  then  tho  old  bakery  iiext  d 


urran  lives,  at  that  tim 


0  un- 


ms's  at  the  corner;  turnin«r  th 


ball's  stairs  (not  then  built),  was  the  old  buil 
(now  belonging  to  F.  .Steele),  which  Henry  J 


oor  cast ;  then  Mr.  IIop- 

0  corner  to  the  head  of  Ran- 

tliiig,  still  there 


own 
all  tl 


where  he  kept  a 


ic  world  and  (1 


gr.-cory,  postofllce,  ami  a  f 


y  Jackson  used  to 


avern,  free  for 


iiiir 


river  stood,  and  yet  stands,  tho  buihL,, 
William  H.  Forbes,  the  St.  Paul  ont/i 
buildiuff,  tl 


10  world's  wiie.     Uj,  along  the  bank  of  tl 


10 


ig,  tho  nucleus  of  the  "  { 


occupied  as  a  store  by 
t;  next  was  a  little  log 


ontral  House  ;"  next  the  old 


og   cathohc  church,  where  the  Rev.  Mr.  Ravoux  faithfully 
iaboicd,  and  sometnnes  saw  miracuh.us  visions  during  tho  timo 
of  Len   ;  then  the  log-houso  belonging  to  Mr.  Laroux,  Ib- 
is now  bemg  metamorphosed  into  a  neat  building.    This  briiu-s 
us  back  to  Vetal's  the  Junction  of  Third  and  Bench  s  .^    t^s 
Ha  fa  do.en  other  buildings  along  Roberts  street,  and  Mr. 

Paul  1  "f  r-  r^^'  '"  ""^''"  ''  ''''  ^^^^«'  --^'t"ted  St. 
1  aul.  Init  let  it  be  rcmemberou  that  the  fashionable  drinkiuff- 
p  aco  then,  was  that  little  log-houso  next  east  of  Goodrich^ 

tho  buildmg  lately  occupied  as  the  clerk's  office,  on  the  spo 
where    the   Minnesota   outfit   stands.      The   ground       est 'of 
Roberts's,  and  north  of  Third  streets,  was  covered  with  anv 
quantity  of  hewecl  timber  stripped  from  tho  fore  t  o^^o    t^ 
town      ^e  looked  about  for  a  lot;  and  saw  that  tho  tw'o'ond 

end  of  tI'  T'f  T'  ""''  '''  *'"'  ''''''''■     ^^-^^  the  lower 
end  of  riurd  street,  owners  of  lots  had  tho  coolness  to  ask 

from  one  hundred  to    two   hundred  dollars  a  lot.     Between 

Lambert's  and  where  tho  Sligo  iron  store  is,  on  Third  street 

the  price  was  seventy-five,  and  soon  after  ninety  dollars      We 

bought  a  fractional  lot  with  Dr.  Dewey ;  and  on  our  If  ofTt 

built  the  middle  section   of  the  building  where  tho  Pul    r 

office  IS    or  a  dwelling-house,  and  lived  in  it  through  tho  nexT 

.  year,  without  having  it  lathed  or  plastered. 


ST.    PAUL OlJlTL'AliT    NOTICE. 


147 


i 


"'But  to  return  a  little.  Wc  wore  at  length  prepared  to 
issue  our  first  number.  We  liatl  no  subseriberH  ;  for  then  there 
were  but  a  handful  of  people  in  the  -whole  territory  ;  and  the 
majority  of  those  were  Canadians  and  half-ureeds.  Not  a 
territorial  officer  had  yet  arrived.  We  remember  present,  at 
the  date  of  our  first  issue,  Mr.  Lull,  "Mr.  Cavileer,  Mr.  Neill, 
and  perhaps  ]\Iajor  Murphy.  The  people  wanted  no  politics, 
and  we  f>avc  them  none  ;  they  wanted  information  of  all  sorts 
about  IMinnesota;  and  that  i:^  what  wo  furnished  them  with. 
Wo  advocated  Minnesota,  morality,  and  rcligion,/rom  the  be- 
ginning^. William  13.  Brown  built  a  shell  of  a  building  (being 
the  south  end  of  the  Sligo  iron  store  now),  which  Mr.  Neill 
occupied  for  a  meetinghouse.  It  was  half  filled  with  heai-ers 
on  Sundays;  for  Sunday  was  like  any  other  day,  or  perhaps 
rather  more  so. 

" '  This  town  grew  rapidly.  The  boats  came  up  loaded 
with  immigrants ;  but  then,  as  now,  a  great  many  feeble, 
weak-hearted  folks,  were  frozen  out  and  went  back  down 
the  river,  not  being  made  of  the  right  stuff.  Mr.  Owens  came 
up  with  the  "Register"  press,  from  Cincinnati,  one  number  of 
that  journal  having  been  printed  in  tha+  city.  Colonel  James 
Hughes  also  came  from  Ohio  with  the  "  Chronicle,"  which  was 
issued  soon  after,  from  the  building  Avherc  "  The  Minnesotian" 
is  now  published.  Soon  after  the  Register,  by  M'Lean  & 
Owens,  was  issued  from  the  building  that  is  now  the  law-office 
of  Simons  Sl  Masterson,  St.  Anthony  street.  After  a  few 
months,  the  Chronicle  and  Register  were  united  in  the  old 
Chronicle  office,  under  the  firm,  name,  and  style  of  Owens  &, 
M'Lean  and  Hughes  &  Quay.  Mr.  Quay  soon  left  the  office ; 
and  soon  after  Colonel  Hughes  sold  out,  and  Mr.  M'Lean 
became  sole  proprietor  of  both  offices,  and  Owens  editor; 
Major  M'Lean  being  appointed  Sioux  agent  at  Fort  Snelling.'  " 

A  short  period  before  the  deceased  v/as  confined  to  his  room 
he  fell  from  his  ferry-boat  into  the  river,  and  had  to  use  great 
exertion  to  keep  from  drowning ;  this,  in  connection  with  a 
mind  oppressed  by  the  cares  of  one  so  active  in  life,  is  sup- 
posed to  have  shortened  his  days  on  earth.    Not  long  after  he 


n  I 


I 


J  ii 


148 


MINNfWOTA    AND    IIH    RKSOITKUK!!, 


I 


was  on  a  1.0,1  ofHickno.ss,  tl.ero  h.v.uuhI  to  1..,  Hu,  prcfiontimont 
tlwit  lus  l.ourt  might  have  comincuccd  "  beating  its  iuneral 
march  to  the  grnvo." 

"  Soino  clayH  before  he  .lie.l.  with  great  cal.nncHB  and  clcnr- 
ness  of  nmul,  he  converned  with  the  minister,  whoso  Bei-vicea 

.0  atten,le,j  when  in  health.  In  looking  back  upon  hin  life, 
iio  «aw  nu.ch  to  regret.  He  acknowledged  his  unworthiness 
n.   the  sight  of  Heaven,  an.l  hoped  that  he  had  placed  his 

rust  .n  lus  Redeemer.  He  was  desirous  to  live  in  order  that 
1.0  UMght  show  to  the  world  that  he  had  detennined  to  act 
upon  new  resolutions.  'J\,  the  last,  ho  felt  an  interest  in  Min- 
nesota During  his  sickness  ho  was  patient,  and  iroely  for- 
gave  all  his  enemies.  "^ 

"^,^'\  f^  ^'^''  l"«,  ^'^y  «»  I^>5'l«y  evening,  August  27, 
18..  ,  at  hall  past  eight  o'clock.  His  funeral  took  place  on 
bunday  afternoon.  A  discourse  was  delivered  in  the  i.resbv- 
terian  church,  to  the  largest  assembly  ever  convened  upon  a 
Binnlar  occasion  in  Minnesota. 

"  The  legislative  assembly  of  1853  very  properly  recognised 
1ms  services  in  bringing  Minnesota  into  notice,  by  giving  his 
name  to  ono  of  tho  now  counties  formed  out  of  the  recently- 
ceded  Dakota  lands."  "' 


Kl.    ANTHONY       FALLS. 


149 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


I-niNCIIML    TOVVNH    CONTINUnn— ST.    ANTHONY         PALLS— POINT 
DOUGLASS,    STILLWATliU,    MKNJJOTA,    ETC. 

A  RiDL  of  fin  liour  from  St.  Taul,  over  fina  country,  Lrings 
us  to  the  c(!li!l)rntetl  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  a  place  of  great  re- 
sort for  visiters  from  tlic  cast  and  sumiy  south.  In  the  way 
of  cataracts,  it  is  decklcdly  the  glory  of  our  west  and  north- 
west. 'J'he  pulse  of  the  traveller  seems  to  heat  quicker  as  he 
feels  himself  approaching  the  scene,  where  Father  Hennepin, 
of  old,  was  so  carried  away  with  admiration  as  to  call  the  red 
man's  falls  after  his  patron-saint.  The  name  has  indeed  a 
kind  of  sacred  halo  ahout  it,  yet  we  love  the  more  sonoroua 
and  far  more  appropriate  appellation  of  the  Indians.  (The 
Dakotas  call  the  falls  "  liara,"  from  irara,  to  laugh.) 

Long  hefore  coming  in  sight  of  the  grand  scene,  the  car  is 
greeted  by  the  deep,  solemn  roar,  that  truly  resemhles  the 
"  sound  of  many  waters."  It  seems,  indeed,  as  though  some 
mighty  strife  were  going  on  amid  the  elements  of  nature.  A 
strange  ami  indescribable  feeling  steals  over  the  senses  — a 
feeling  that  awakens  a  spirit  of  admiration  for  the  Almighty's 
handiwork.  The  falls  at  length  burst  upon  the  enraptured 
view  —  the  noble  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  We  are  immediately 
impressed  with  the  peculiar  appropriateness  of  the  Indian's 
name,  as  he  gazes  on  the  "  laughing  waters."  One  is  not  here 
so  completely  overwhelmed  at  the  incomparable  Niagara,  with 
the  great  height  of  the  water's  fall,  their  deafening  roar,  or  the 
lofty  character  of  the  scenery.  St.  Anthony  is  more  within 
the  grasp  of  the  human  comprehension,  and  is  therefore  looked 
upon  with  move  real  pleasure.  Niagara  appears  to  wear  a 
kind  of  threatening  frown,  while  the  former  greets  you  with  a 


160 


MINNEHOTA    AND    I'la    KK60UUCES. 


iJ  ' 


moro  winnlnf;  and  complacent  smile.  Yot  on  account  of  tlie 
ynst  body  (,!'  water  conthinally  rusliin{,'  over  tlio  rocky  nwiHS 
111  the  rivcr'H  hv.d,  tlio  scene  is  one  of  ^vvni  sublimity,  au  well 
as  ono  of  beauty  and  loveliness.  Ah  wo  gaze  on  the  scene, 
and  listen  to  the  wnning  elements,  how  forcibly  nro  we  imr 
pressed  with  the  truth  of  liruinnrd's  beautiful  lines  :  — 

*'  And  what  nre  wo, 
Tlittt  henr  the  question  of  tlint  voice  sublime? 
O,  what  are  all  the  notea  that  ever  rung 
From  war's  vain  trumpet,  by  thy  thundering  side! 
Yes,  wliat  is  all  the  riot  man  can  mal'-e 
In  his  short  life,  to  thine  unceasing  roarf 
And  yet,  bold  babbler,  what  art  thou  to  Ilim 
Who  drowned  the  world,  and  heaped  the  waters  far 
Above  its  loftiest  mountain?     A  light  wave 
That  breaks  and  whispers  at  its  Maker's  might!" 

The  Rev.  Albert  Barnes,  in  a  sermon  preached  in  1849, 
uses  this  language  in  relation  to  the  falls:  — 

"  I  visited  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,     I  know  not  how  other 
men  feel  when  standing  there,  nor  hoAv  men  will  feel  a  century 
hence,  when  standing  there —  then,  not  in  the  west,  hut  almost 
in  the  centre  of  our  great  nation.     But  when  I  stood  there, 
and  reflected  on  tlie  distance  between  that  and  the  place  of  my 
birth  and  my  home;  on  the  prairies  over  which  I  had  passed; 
and  the  stream  — the  'Father  of  Rivers'  — up  which  I  had 
sailed  some  five  hundred  miles,  into  a  new  and  nnsettled  land 
—  where  the  children  of  the  forest  still  live  and  roam  — I  had 
views  of  the  greatness  of  my  country,  such  as  I  have  never 
had  in  the  crowded  capitals  and  the  smiling  villages  of  the 
cast.     Far  in  the  distance  did  they  then  seem  to  be,  and  there 
came  over  the  soul  the  idea  of  greatness  and  vastness,  Avhich  no 
figures,  no  description,  had  ever  conveyed  to  my  mind.     To  an 
inexperienced  traveller,  too,  how  strange  is  the  appearance  of 
all  that  land !     Those  boundless  prairies  seem  as  if  they  had 
been  cleared  by  the  patient  labor  of  another  race  of  me^n,  re- 
moving all  the  forests,  and  roots,  and  stumps,  and  brambles, 
and  smoothing  them  down  as  if  with  mighty  rollers,  and  sowing 
them  with  grass  and  flowers  ;  a  race  which,  tlien  massed  away 


^m 


ST.    ANTHONY       FALLS, 


151 


liaving  built  no  houses  of  tlioir  own,  nnd  mndo  no  fenor*,  nnd 
set  out  no    trees,  and  eHtnMi.shed  no  InndniaikH,  to  lay  the 
fbuudution  of  any  future  clalui.     The  mounds  which  you  here 
and  there  see,  look,  indeed,  as  if  a  portion  of  them  had  died 
nnd  liad   been    buried  there;    but  those   mounds   and    those 
boundless  Helds  had  been  forsaken  together.     You  ascend  the 
Mississippi  amid  scenery  unsurpassed   in  beauty  probably  in 
the  world.     You  see  the  waters  making  their  way  along  an 
interval  of  from  two  to  four  miles  in  width,  between  bluffs 
of  from  one  to  five  hundred  feet  in  height.     Now  the  river 
makes  its  way  along  the  eastern  range  of  bluffs,  and  now  the 
western,  and  now  in  the  centre,  and  now  '.t  divides  Itself  into 
numerous   channels,  forming  thousands  of  beautiful   islands, 
covered  with  long  grass  ready  for  the  scythe  of  the  mower. 
Those  bluffs,  rounded  with  taste  and  skill,  such  as  could  be 
imitated  by  no  art  of  man,  and  set  out  with  trees  here  a.id 
there,  gracefully  arranged   like  orchards,  seem  to  liave  been 
sown  with  grain  to  the  summit,  and  are  clothed  with  beautiful 
green.     You  look   out  instinctively  for  the  house  and  barn ; 
for  flocks  and  herds ;  for  men,  and  women,  and  children  ;  but 
they  are  not  there.     A  race  that  is  gone  seems  to  have  culti- 
vated those  fields,  and  then  to  have  silently  disap^.cnred  — 
leaving  them  for  the  first  man  that  should  come  from  the  older 
parts   of   our   own   country,   or   from  foreign  lands,  to   take 
possession  of  them.     It  is  only  by  a  process  of  reflection  that 
you  are  convinced  that  it  is  not  so.     But  it  is  not  the  work  of 
man.     It  is  God  who  has  done  it,  when  there  was  no  man 
there  save  the  wandering  savage,  alike  ignorant  and  uncon- 
cerned as  to  the  design  of  the  great  processes  in  the  land 
where  he  roamed  —  God  who  did  all  this,  that  he  might  prepare 
It  for  the  abod  .  of-   '•.ivilized  and  Christian  people." 

The  direction  ''  the  Mississippi  a^  this  place,  and  for 
several  miles  above,  is  nearly  south.  Opposite  the  village 
three  islands,  lying  nearly  in  a  straight  line,  one  above  the 
other,  divide  the  river  into  two  parts— the  largest  body  of 
water  flowing  on  the  right  hand  of  the  islands.  The  upper 
island  is  small,  containing  less  than  ten  acres  of  land,  -vA  is 
still  uncultivated,  though  the  trees  with  which  it  was  but  a 


a« 


I 


152 


MINNESOTA  AND   ITS   EES0UKCK8. 


short  time  since  densely  covered,  arc  fast  disappearing,  and 
it  will  soon  be  brought  nuder  tribute  to  tlie  husbandman. 

The  second  island  is  son^e  eight  o.-  ten  rods  below,  and 

contains  about  forty  acres.     It  is  a  beautiful  spot  of  ground, 

covered  thickly  with  a  great  variety  of  thrifty  timber,  among 

which  the  sugar-maple  is  conspicuous.     The  banks  are  high, 

bold  and  rocky  on  the  upper  end,  gradually  descending  at  the 

lower  almost  to  the  water's  edge.     Near  the  middle  of  the 

island  a  small  bluff  rises  some  ten  or  fifteen  feet  high,  with  a 

slope  as  nicely  and  beautifully  turned  as  if  it  had  been  the 

work  of  art.     It  forms  a  semicircular  curve  at  the  lower  end, 

gradually  widening  toward   the    upper,  making   one   of  the 

mo^t  charming  building-sites  that  can  be  imagined.     Near  the 

cr  end  of  this  island   commence   the  rapids  in  the  main 

stream,  the  water  foar-ing,  bounding,  and  dashing  over  the 

rocks,  which  lie  scattered  across  the  bed  of  the  stream  as  far 

as  the  falls. 

Franklin  Steele,  Esq.,  owns  this  island,  having  entered  it 
in  1848,  as  soon  as  it  was  surveyed.  It  is  ccnsidered  valuable 
property,  the  proprietor  having  been  offered  four  thousand  dol- 
lars for  one  half  of  it. 

The  third  island  lies  immediately  below,  so  near  the.last- 

mcntioned   that   they  were   formerly  connected   by  a  slight 

bridge.     It  contains,  on  a  rough  estimate,  some  fifteen  acres, 

and  is  not  yet  surveyed.     A  small  house  has  been  erected 

upon  it  by  the  mill  company,  as  a  pre-emption  claim.     On 

each  side  of  this  island  are  tlie  falls  of  St.  Anthony.     Below 

the  falls  are  two  small  islands,  near  the  right  shqre.     The  falls 

of  the  m.ain  channel  are  several  rods   above   those   on  this 

side,  the  greater  volume  of  Avater  having  worn  away  the  soft 

crumbling  rock  much  faster.     The  recedence  of  the  falls  on 

both  sides   is  so  rapid  as  to  be  almost  yearly  perceptible  ; 

making  the  suppositions  of  some  geologists  highly  plausible', 

that  originally  they  were  as  low  as  Fort  Snelling.     During 

the  high  water  of  1850,  huge  masses  of  rocks  were  torn  from 

the  islands  washed  by  the  falls,  and   carried  a  considerable 

distance  down  the  river ;  large  blocks  of  sand  and  limestone 

detached  from  the  ledge  of  rock  over  which  the  v  iter  is  pro- 


ST.    ANTHONY      FALLS. 


153 


cipitated  ;  and  altogether,  tlio  falls  underwent  a  greater  change 
than  had  been  observed  for  many  years. 

Franklin  Steele,  Norman  W.  Kittson,  and  Mr.  Stumbough, 
made  a  claim  on  lands  in  this  vicinity,  as  early  as  1836  or 
1837,  soo))  after  the  Indian  title  was  obtained  by  government. 
The  land,  however,  was  not  surveyed  and  entered  till  1848. 
Charles  Wilson  seems  to  have  been  the  first  American  who 
ever  made  a  permanent  residence  here,  having  arrived  in  the 
spring  of  1847.     There  was  then  but  one  house  in  the  place, 
standing  on  the  bluff  some  thirty  rods  below  the  mills,  and 
bu.lt  of  logs.      Iloving  Frenchmen   and  trappers  may  have 
temporarily  resided  here  previously,   but  not  as  permanent 
settlers.     Mrs.  Ard  Godfrey  may  claim  the  honor  of  having 
'^■iven  birth  to  the  first  of  the  fair  daughters  of  St.  Anthony ; 
and  her  husband,  A.  Godfrey,  Esq.,  that  of  having  commenced 
the  first  improvement  of  the  water  power  at  the  falls.     Under 
his  superijitendence,  in  the  fall  of  1847,  the  dam  and  saw-mills 
owned  by  the  St.  Anthony  mill  company,  were  begun,  and  the 
first  saw  put  in  operation  in  August,  1848.     ')thers  were  com- 
pleted  soon  after,  making   eight  saws  now  rr-ining,   of  an 
average  capacity  of  six  thousand  feet  each  per  day.     R.  P. 
Russell,  Esq.,  erected  the  first  frame  dwelling  in  the  town,  in 
1847,  and  opened  the  first  store.     There  are  at  present  four 
organized  churches— presbyterian,  episcopalian,  methodist,  and 
baptist.     Two  school  districts,  known  as  Nus.  5  and  6,  were 
organized  in  the  village  in  1850.     In  addition  to  the  public 
schools  taught  in   these   districts,  several   flourishing   select 
schools  have  been  maintained  since  1850.     The  whole  popu- 
lation of  the  place  may  be  safely  estimated  at  two  thousand 
souls. 

The  legislature,  in  1851,  passed  "An  act  to  incorporate  the 
University  of  Minnesota  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony."  The 
law  provides  that  "  the  proceeds  of  all  lands  that  may  here- 
after be  granted  by  the  United  States  to  the  territory,  for  the 
support  of  a  univer-ity,  shall  be  and  remain  a  perpetual  fund 
to  be  called  the  '  University  fund,'  the  interest  of  which  shall 
be  appropriated  to  the  support  of  a  university/'  Tlie  law 
further  provides  that  the  object  of  the  university  shall  be  "  to 


V' 


I 


154 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITO   KESOURCl.'S. 


II 


provide  the  inh.abitants  of  this  territory  with  the  means  of 
acquiring  a  thorou-h  knowledge  of  the  various  branches  of 
literature,  science,  and  the  arts;"  and  that  "  the  government 
of  the  university  sliall  be  vested  in  a  board  of  twelve  regents, 
who  shall  be  elected  by  the  legislature,"  and  whose  duties  are 
prescribed  in  said  law.  "  The  university  shall  consist  of  five 
departments,  to  wit:  science,  literature,  and  the  arts,  a  depart- 
ment of  law  and  medicine,  the  theory  and  practice  of  elemen- 
tary instruction,  and  the  department  of  agriculture." 

The  university  shall  be  located  at  the  "Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony." «'  The  regents  shall  make  a  report  annually  to  the 
legislature,  exhibiting  the  state  and  progress  of  the  university 
in  its  several  departments,  the  course  of  study,  the  number  of 
professors  and  students,  the  amount  of  expenditures  and  such 
other  information  as  they  may  deem  proper,"  etc.  On  the 
fourth  of  March,  1851,  the  legislature  met  in  joint  convention 
and  elected  the  following  gentlemen  as  regents  for  said  uni- 
versity, to  wit : — 

Alexander  Ramsey,  Henry  H.  Sibley,  0.  K.  Smith,  Henry 
31.  llice,  W.  R.  Marshall,  Tranklin  Steele,  Isaac  Atwater,  B.  B. 
Meeker,  A.  Van  Vorhees,  Socrites  Nelson,  N.  0.  D   Tavlor 
and  J.  W.  Furber.  "       ^      ' 

The  board  of  regents  met  at  St.  Anthony,  October,  1851,  for 
the  transaction  of  business.  The  subject  of  the  removal  of  the 
present  site  of  the  university  engaged  the  attention  of  the 
board.  It  has  been  thought  by  some  of  the  friends  of  the 
university  that  its  present  location  is  in  closer  proximity  to  the 
business,  and  especially  the  manufacturing  carried  on  in  town, 
than  would  be  desirable  for  a  seat  of  learning.  The  subject 
has  been  referred  to  a  committee  for  examination,  and  to 
report  whether  any  more  eligible  site  can  be  obtained  in  the 
vicinity  of  St.  Anthony. 

Congress,  soon  after  the  organization  of  the  Territory,  passed  a 
law,  granting  to  Minnesota,  for  the  purpose  of  establisbino-  a  Uni-  ' 
versity  in  the  Territory,  two  townships,  or  40,080  acres  of  land 

Over  one  half  of  the  Congressional  grant  of  land  has  been 
located  by  the  agents  of  the  Board  of  Regents,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  University,  at  the  Sauk  Rapids,  Vv^inona,  aud  Red  Wing  land 


I 


ST.   ANTHONY. 


155 


offices.     The  University  lanrla  havo  been  selected  with  great  care, 
and  are  already  very  valuable. 

One  of  the  first  steps  taken  by  the  board  of  regents,  in  be- 
half of  the  university,  was  the  establishment  of  a  preparatory 
department.  This  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition.  It  is 
under  the  direction  of  Prof.  E.  W.  Merrill,  a  gentleman  of  much 
experience  and  success  in  teaching.  It  was  opened  for  the 
reception  of  students  November  2Gth,  1851.  Since  that  time 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  students  have  been  connected  with 
the  institution,  ^'hc  number  has  been  steadily  increasing'' 
each  term,  the  present  numbering  eighty-five  pupils.  It  is 
gratifying  to  observe  that  an  interest  is  felt  in  the  institution 
in  different  parts  of  the  territory.  Several  students  from 
abroad,  have  nsceutly  availed  themselves  of  the  advantages 
it  affords. 

There  have  been  six  students  pursuing  the  study  of  the 
languages,  seventeen  algehrn  and  geometry,  sixteen  physiology, 
the  same  number  book-keeping,  twenty-nine  philosophy,  and 
SIX  astronomy.  The  bof^ks  used  are  the  same  as  recommended 
by  the  superintend(!nt  of  public  instruction. 

No  provi,si<.n  has  yet  been  made  for  procuring  apparatus 
suitable  for  the  illuHtration  of  the  natural  sciences,  and  experi- 
ments therein.  Cr('at  inconvenience  is  experienced  from  this 
cause.  By  a  resolution  of  the  board  of  regents,  all  the  ex- 
penses connected  with  the  preparatory  department,  are  de- 
frayed by  private  subscription.  Many  of  the  friends  of  educa- 
tion have  alrea.Iy  contributed  generously  toward  this  object. 
But  it  is  believed  there  are  others,  who  would  only  need  to  be 
informed  that  the  want  above  alluded  to  is  felt,  to  cheerfully 
contribute  the  means  for  furnishing  the  necessary  apparatus. 

The  town  of  St.  Anthony  now  contains  over  four  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  is  most  beautifully  picturesque  in  its  position. 
It  contanis  beautiful  ;  u'lding  sitfls,  and  now  boasts  several 
elegantly-built  cottages,  which  would  do  honor  to  any  city  of 
the  Union.  Its  rapidly  increasing  business,  and  population, 
together  with  its  magnificent  water  power  for  manufacturing 
purposes,  betoken  another  <'  Lowell,"  to  rival  old  New  England 
Massachusetts.    (Sco  Appendix,  page  372.) 


150 


MINNESOTA   AND    la's    KKSOUROK9. 


11 


Sttllwater  was   first  settled,  October  10.  1843,  by  Jolm 
M'KuHick,  formerly  from  Maine ;  Elam  Greely,  from  Maine  • 
Calvin  F.    Leach   from  Vermont,   and   Elias   M'Kean,   from 
1  ennsylvania,  proprietors  of  the  Stillwater  Lumber  Company  • 
having  selected  this  site  on  account  of  its  valuable  water' 
power,  for  the  erection  of  a  saw-mill,  which  was  put  in  opera- 
tion early  in  the  spring  of  1844.     The  simple  board  shanties 
of   the   first   settlers,  together   with   the   mill,  remained   the 
only  buildings  in  the  place  until  the  fall  of  1844,  when  the 
first  frame  house  was  built  by  A.  Northrup  for  a  tavern  stand. 
±rom  this  time,  the  place  steadily  grew  in  importance.     In 
184G,  a  postofHce  was  established,  and  Elam  Greely  appointed 
postmaster.     In  1848,  the  town  was  laid  out  by  John  M'Ku- 
Sick,  one   of  the   proprietors  thereof.     About   this    time  the 
county  commissioners  authorized  the  building  of  a  courthouse 
at  this  place,  which  was  completed  in  1850.     A  schoolhouse 
was  also  built  in  1848,  schools  having  been  established  as  early 
as  1846,  and  held  in  private  houses.     A  prcsbyterian  church, 
being  the  first  in  the  town,  was  erected  in  1850. 

The  settlement  of  the  Areola  mill,  which  ranks  next  in 
age,  was  commenced  in  1846,  by  Martin  Mower,  W.  H.  0 
Folsom,  formerly  from  Maine;  and  Joseph  Brewster,  from' 
New  York,  who  erected  a  saw-mill  at  this  point.  Since  which 
many  other  buildings  have  been  built,  which,  together  with 
the  mill,  gives  this  place  the  appearance  of  a  thriving  little 
village. 

The  first  settlement  of  Washington  county  was  commenced 
in  1837,  at  what  is  called  Taylor's  falls  — by  Baker,  Taylor, 
and  others  of  the  Northwest  Lumber  Company.  About  which 
time,  the  government  treaty,  with  the  Sioux  and  Chippewa 
Indians  was  concluded  for  the  land,  the  Sioux  owning  the 
southern,  and  the  Chippewas  the  northern  portion  of  the  land 
in  this  county.  July  17th,  1838,  the  treaty  being  ratified  by 
Congress,  consequently  several  settlements  were  commenced 
about  that  time.  Several  by  the  French,  along  the  shores  of 
Lake  St.  Croix,  as  well  as  the  more  important  settlements  of 
the  Marine  and  Falls  of  St.  Croix. 

The  first  steamboat  that  navigated  the  river  St.  Croix  was 


STILLWATETL 


137 


tbo  Palknyra,  July  17tli,  .^^'SS,  having  on  board  the  original 
proprietors  of  the  Marine  and  Falls  of  St.  Croix  saw-mills, 
together  with  their  necessary  supplies  and  machinery,  for  the 
erection  of  the  mills  at  those  places. 

The  settlement  of  the  Marine  mills  was  commenced  in  1838, 
by  Samuel  Burkleo,  formerly  of  the  state  of  Delaware,  Orange 
Walker,  from  Vermont,  and  others  of  the  Marine  Lumber  Com- 
pany, who  succeeded  in  erecting  a  good  saw-mill,  for  the  man- 
ufacture of  pine  lumber.  Other  buildings  of  diffei-ent  kinds 
have  since  been  built,  together  with  one  large  and  commodious 
tavern  stand.  This  place  is  a  business  point  of  considerable 
importance. 

At  this  time,  the  jurisdiction  of  Crawford  county,  Wisconsin 
territory,  extended  over  all  this  territory  northwest  from  Prairie 
du  Chien.  Joseph  R.  Brown  was  chosen  representative  to  the 
legislative  assembly  of  Wisconsin,  to  represent  the  wants  of 
the  population ;  and,  among  the  many  representations  of  the 
wants  of  the  people,  was  the  organization  of  a  new  county, 
which  was  granted  by  the  legislature  in  1841,  as  will  be  seen 
by  their  act,  November  20,  entitled  "An  act  to  organize  the 
county  of  St.  Croix."  At  the  time  prescribed  by  law  for  hold- 
ing the  court,  up  came  the  judge  to  hold  the  court  at  the  seat 
of  justice  ;  and  on  arriving  at  Dakota,  the  seat  of  justice,  to  his 
great  astonishment,  the  only  building  in  the  town  was  a  rough 
log-cabin,  occupied  by  a  lone  Frenchman,  who  it  appears  was 
employed  by  the  proprietor  of  the  town  to  take  care  of  the 
county-seat  in  his  absence.  This  kind  of  reception  not  meet- 
ing the  expectations  of  the  judge,  he  very  naturally  took  back 
tracks,  and  thus  ended  the  judicial  proceedings  for  St.  Croix 
county.  It  was  soon  after  attached  to  Crawford  county,  where 
it  remained  until  1847,  when  it  was  again  organized  for  ju- 
dicial purposes,  and  the  county-iieat  established  at  Stillwater, 
where  the  first  United  States  district  court  was  holdcu  in  what 
is  now  Minnesota  territory,  being  the  June  term  of  1848. 
There  being  no  courthouse,  the  court  was  held  at  the  store 
of  John  ]\l'Kusick,  by  the  Hon.  Charles  Dunn,  judge  of  said 
court. 


?TTTT 


158 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   UES0UR0E8. 


SUllwatcr  IS  the  natural  receptacle  of  the  countless  millions  of 
Jumber  that  for  a  long  time  to  co.ne  will  float  down  the  rivo.  St 
troix.     btillwator  will  be  a  second  JJangor  in  the  lumber  trade* 
No  h.n.  can  prevent  it.     The  logs  will  stop  there  of  their  own 

anu  Staples  will  convert  them  into  building  material.     Lumber 
not  logs  wdl  be  the  staple  of  Stillwater  henceforth.     Stillwater  s 
the  pouit  from  which  the  greater  portion  of  the  supplies  for  Iho 

s  drZ  r"V'^""  '''  ''^''  ^^"'^  ^^^  '^^  "— -  t'-i^utari  s 
IS  drawn  by  teams,  or  carried  by  boats.     Hero   too    is  bniU  fhn 

Pemtentiary  of  the  Territory,  theLdon  of  whTh  tk  II       L  t 
J vsq.     The  walls  and  buildings  arc  of  the  most  approved  and  sub 
s  antial  kind      The  Catholic,  Methodist,  Episcopalian,  and  it    1 
^nan  denominations  each  have  comfortable  and  substntial  housed 
No  town  or  city  in  the  United  States  is  better  supplied  wi,    Tod 
and  wholesome  springs  than  is  Stillwater.     Every  few  rods  maf  be 

::::  iiSThT^"""  "°^ ''-  ^^"^  -'  ^-^^-^^  — ^ 

^tiHw  f ""!  '  rT  ?^  "  "^'^^  '^'""^  '^''  J^^'«>  ^hore  the  city  of 
Stillwater  stands,  the  bluffs  have  retreated  f V  m  the  lake  in  the 
form  0    a  semicircle.     The  ground  along  the  lake  is  but  a  few  i^ 
above  high  water  mark;  and  for  the  distance  of  two  streets  it 
slightly  ascending  — iust  cnouf^h  <5n  fn^  ^r.         ■  "greets,  it  is 

beautv      TJ.nm  1     ^  ^  convenience,  neatness  and 

.ops of .,„,,„ J  rL,::n:LL';t^2:  -.XL^;!-" s: 

We  took  a  stroll  a  few  eveninfrs  no-n  rrhr^r,  +i,     x.  -  ^ 
shining  and  ,he  sta.  wore  twinlSn^rioto  ou^it"  <,f  7"  T 

bluff.     Bo,„nd  u,  was  .ho  bojtiful  stc  ?>  w    f  ir,.  "?'"'" 

^"^nrtr  i::^,:rro  r  i  f '----^^^^ 

whid,  plough  its  wa,    ,      T„  our  Z        '■\'""""°"«  '^"^"■""s 

long  «avin.  „;|!~r.    -.M     nT.l  '  °  '■'''°''''  '=''"^  "'"■ 

°  =  '  """  ''"grant  uioon,,  and  verdure.     On  the 


M 


FOttT   6NELLIN0. 


169 


H 

O 

m 
H 
J'- 


< 


o 

H 
O 

o 

iJ 

"/■, 

H 
M 
O 


opposite  shore  rise  beautiful  -rassy  bluffs,  rounded  with  a  taste  no 
human  skill  can  imitate,  and  planted  with  trees  in  a  manner  which 
challenges  the  most  ingenious  landscape  gardener. 

The  country  around  Stillwater  is  a  good  agricultural  country, 
and  we  know  of  no  business  which  pays  better  than  that  of 
larraing.  At  the  present  time  the  home  demand  far  exceeds  the 
supply.  Choice  farms  can  be  obtained  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood of  Stillwater  at  from  five  to  thirty  dollars  per  acre,  and 
some  land  yet  remains  in  the  hands  of  the  Government,  which  can 
be  purchased  by  those  who  desire  to  settle,  but  it  is  at  a  distance 
of  ten  or  fifteen  miles  from  Stillwater. 

A  visit  to  Vermillion  river  and  falls  is  no  less  attractive : 
tlic  river  winding  its  way  unseen  through  an  extensive  and 
beautiful  prairie  until  within  a  short  distance  of  the  precipice, 
then  rushing  with  all  the  wild  confusion  of  a  Niagara  or  St. 
Anthony  over  craggy  and  disjointed  rocks  of  about  one  liim- 
drcd  feet  in  depth  until  it  reaches  the  river  below,  and  finally 
finds  a  rest  in  the  bosom  of  the  Father  of  Waters  one  mile 
above  this  town ;  the  river  above  and  below  the  falls  affording 
fish  of  fine  quality,  such  as  trout,  bass,  pickerel,  chub,  «fec.     A 
ride  of  a  few  miles  to  Rush  river,  in  Wisconsin,  through  a  fer- 
tile country  of  woodland  and  prairie,  is  no  less  inviting  to 
those  in  search  of  piscatorial  enployment,  abounding,  as  do 
other  rivers  and  lakes  of  the  country,  with  fish  of  excellent 
quality. 

The  late  appropriations  of  Congress  for  improvements  within 
the  territory,  makes  Point  Douglas  the  starting-point  of  two 
principal  roads:  one  to  Fond  du  Lac,  on  Lake  Superior;  the 
other  to  Fort  Ripley,  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  above,  on 
the  Mississippi  river. 

Fort  Snelling  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Minne- 
sota and  Mississippi  rivers,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  buildings  of  the  garrison  are  upon  a  high  bluff,  probably 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water  in  the  riveis, 
and  which  stretches  to  the  north  and  west  in  a  gently-undula- 
ting and  very  fertile  prairie,  interspersed  here  and  there  with 
groves  of  heavy  timber.     The  steamb'jut-landing  of  Fort  Snel- 


i 

k' 

;„ 

.i 

( 

\ 

k 

\\ 

1 

160 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   RESOURCEB. 


i'  i 


w 


w 

1 


j  A!; 


w  i. 


Hn^  is  (lircctly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  IVFinnesota,  from 
which  a  h)>vr  .sland  extends  about  two  and  a  half  miles  down 
the  Mississippi. 

Mkndota,  Avhich  lies  about  half  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Minnesota,  has  been  for  mnny  years  a  trading-post  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  and  is  still  a  depot  of  goods  and  pro- 
visions  for  the  supply  of  the  traders,  who,  at  this  time,  have 
ixmotrated  much  farther  into  the  Indian  country.     But  it  has 
till  lately,  been  included  in  the  military  reserve  of  Fort  Snel' 
ling.  ^  It  has  not  attained  that  degree  of  prosperity  so  remark- 
able  in  the  villages  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  Anthony,  and  which 
Its  far  more  favorable  rosition  might  justly  have  secured  for  it. 
h  rom  the  summit  of  I^ilot  Knob,  which  lies  back  of  Mendota 
a  view  may  be  obtained  of  the  surrounding  country  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  grasp,  affording  to  the  spectator  a  sight  of  one  of 
the  most  charming  natural  pictures  to  be  found  in  this  territory, 
so  justly  celebrated  for  scenic  beauty.     The  view  describes  a 
circle  of   eight  or  nine  miles  —  a  grand  spectacle  of  rolling 
prairie,  extended  plain  and  groves,  the  valley  of  the  Minne- 
sota  with  Its  meandering  stream,  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Fort 
Snelling,  Lake  Harriet  in  the  distance  — the  town  of  St  An- 
thony  just  visible  through  the  nooks  of  the  intervening  groves, 
—  and  St.  Paul,  looking  like  a  city  set  upon  a  hill,  its  build- 
ings and  spires  distinctly  visible,  and  presenting  in  appearance 
the  distant  view  of  a  city  containing  a  population  of  one  hun- 
dred  thousand  human  beings. 

Besides  the  older  and  larger  towns,  there  are  many  gernunal 
cdh,  along  the  navigable  streams,  hastening  into  existence.  We 
have  on  the  Mississippi  river,  Wabashaw,  Winona,  Red  Win^ 
Hastings  Mendota,  and  perhaps  others  unintentionally  omit 
ted.  Ihen  on  the  Minnesota  river  are  Shakopee,  Le  Sueur 
and  Traverse  des  Sioux.  And  yet  above  these,  at  thB  conflu' 
ence  of  the  Blue-Earth  and  Minnesota,  in  the  foreground  of  a 
most  charming  picture  of  varied  and  picturesque  scenery,  stands 
the  fair  beginning  of  the  future  city  of  Mankato. 


m 


!i 


ft 


AORICULTUKE,    MANUFACTUKE8,    KTO. 


161 


•       CHAPTER   IX. 

THE    AGRICULTURAL    RESOURCES    OF    THE    TERRfTORV,    MANUFAC- 
TURES,   ETC. 

Those  wlio  are  desirous  of  removing  to  n  new  country  ou-l.t 
to  prefer  Jlinnesota  for  the  business  of  fanning.     To  be-in 
witb,  if  you  are  of  that  incorrigible  class  of  persons  who  h.ave 
taken  it  into  their  brains  that  no  part  of  this  great  globe  is 
habitable,  by  reason  of  the  cold,  to  a  higher  degree  of  latitude 
than  about  forty  degrees  north,  we  have  no  use  for  you.     Stay 
in  your  doorless  cabins,  and  go  shivering  about  in  your  thin 
slazy  garments  of  jeans,  through  the  mingled  frost  and  mud,' 
and  the  icy  sket  aud  chilling  fogs  of  that  most  execrable  of 
all  c  imates— an  hermaphrodite  region,  half-tropical  and  half- 
fngid  — a  cross  of  the  north   pole  upon  the  equator.     Stay 
where  you  are.     We  want  here  a  race  of  men  of  higher  physi- 
cal  and  mental  powers,  of  more  meat  and  muscle,  of  more  force 
and  energy.     The  whole  of  the  British  islands-the  nursery 
of  that  vigorous  stock  of  the  hun.an  f^imily,  which,  first  taking 
root  in  the  rocky  shore  of  the  Atlantic,  has,  in  two  hundred 
years  uprooted  the  forests  filled  with  barbarous  Indians,  and, 
like  the  prolific  locust-tree,  spread  wider  and  wider  its  annual 
shoots,  until  its  shadows  are  reflected  from  the  Pacific -those 
i^ntish  islands  lie  more  than  five  degrees  north  of  St.  Paul. 
I  he  whole  of  England,  Ireland,  Scotland,  Belgium,  Holland, 
and  a  part  of  France,  lie  north  of  the  extreme  northern  bound- 
aiy  of  Minnesota.     We  are   now  addressing  those  over  the 
whole  g  obe  who  have  been  invigorated  by  the  cold.     I  do  not 
know  where  to  look  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  as  far  south  even 
as  latitude  thirty-nine  degrees,  for  a  race  of  people  who  would 


i 


163 


MINNESOTA    AlfD    I'l'S    KKSOU1{OE8. 


ho  worth  Imvinpf  in  Minnosota.  Wo  can  disponso  with  the 
rusty  Spaniard,  the  idlo  Italian,  tho  stupid  Turk  ;  but  wo  want 
all  tho  middle,  northwestern,  and  eastern  states,  and  all  uvj 
people  of  the  islands  and  tho  continent  of  tho  north  of  1  i  rope 
to  know  what  advantages  Minnesota  oflers  to  them. 

Wo  take  it  as  an  axiom,  that  individuals  and  stateu  va  ib  '  o 
supplied  with  mainsj)rings.  A  man  will  last  longer  upon  .i 
tieadwhecl  tlian  rusting  out  in  a  dungeon.  Tho  hard  iiL;  <1 
Yankee,  who  Avars  through  his  lifetime  with  Nature,  to  win  a 
llttlo  field  among  tho  ledges  of  New  Hampshire,  outlives  two 
or  three  generations  of  "  suckers,"  who  settle  down  on  the  fer- 
tile bottoms  of  tho  Illinois,  amid  vast  savannas  of  Indian  corn. 
The  Yankee  is  ncvci  satisfied  while  anybody  in  the  world  has 
a  better  house  or  better-educated  children  than  his  own. 
Whenever  Nature  pours  profusion  into  the  lap  of  man  —  when 
results  come  without  exertion  —  man  ceases  effort,  and  his 
powers  are  no  longer  developed.  This  is  the  inevitable  result, 
to  individuals  and  to  states.  Nature  spoils  her  children  by 
enriching  them.  This  result  is  the  surest  in  a  rich,  southern 
soil,  as  tho  climate  itself,  as  well  as  the  profusion  of  Nature's 
supplies,  invite  to  indolence  and  ease.  The  honey-bee,  taken 
to  the  tropics,  it  is  said,  will  provide  stores  for  one  winter ; 
but,  after  that,  is  as  improvident  as  a  house-fly. 

This  is  a  condition  of  things  not  to  bo  found  in  Minnesota. 
The  length  of  tho  winter  and  tho  invigorating  climate  invito 
man  to  exercise.  He  seeks  for  it — has  an  appetite  for  it,  as 
much  as  an  Englishman  has  for  roast-beef,  or  for  a  tramp  with 
his  gun.  His  powers  are  all  right  j  he  has  a  good  boiler  in 
him,  and  steam  to  work  off. 

Tho  human  family  never  has  accomplished  anything  worthy 
of  note,  besides  the  erection  of  the  pyramids,  those  milestones 
of  ancient  centuries,  south  of  latitude  forty  north.  The  his- 
tory of  THE  WOULD  is  wi'lttcn  chiefly  above  that  parallel. 
South  of  it  existed  slavery,  in  one  or  another  form,  always,  to 
a  great  extent,  in  both  ancient  and  modern  times ;  and  wher- 
ever Consumption  contrives  to  place  a  saddle  upon  the  back 
of  Production,  and  ride,  there  will  be  want  and  wretchedness; 
for  Nature  has  ordained  it,  for  the  tmo  welfare  of  man,  that 


.^.^^M^m- 


AGRICULTURE,   MANUFACTURES,   ETC. 


163 


' 


( 


I 


every  human  being  shall  labor,  in  some  honest  and  useful  vo- 
cation. 

But  there  are  prejudices  against  our  climate.     Some  insist 
upon  it  tliat  wo  can  not  raise  Indian  corn.     Show  them  pro- 
lific fields  of  it,  as  wo  now  can  hundreds,  the  naked  ears  glit- 
tering like  gold  in  the  mellow  sunshino  of  autumn,  and  the 
ground  beneath  almost  paved  with  yellow  pumj)kin8,  and  yet 
they  look  incredulous,  and  shako  their  heads,  and  say  :  "  It 
won't  do.     I  was  here  last  June,  and  your  springs  are  too  late. 
You  can't  make  caim-crap  y'hcre,  no  how  you  can  fix  it,  stran- 
ger !"     These  wise  people  have  a  theory  that  maize  is  a^Iapted 
solely  to  the  latitude  they  came  from ;   and  they  are  as  stub- 
born in  maintaining  it  as  the  geologists  are  in  thei'  y  that 
there  can  be  no  mineral  coal  north  of  the  Illinois  coal-heds; 
although  it  is  actually  found  here,  in  various  localities,  ranging 
south  from  the  Crow-Wing  river  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the 
Blue-Earth,  of  the  most  admirable  quality.     If  we  coiild  not 
raise  Indian  corn,  we  should  remember  that,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  part  of  Italy  and  Spain,  all  populous  Europe  subsists 
very  well  without  it.     But  maize,  I  admit,  is  the  cereal  crop 
of  America.     I  subscribe  to  all  JMr.  Clay's  beautiful  culogium 
upon  it;   and  perhaps  the  most  valuable  quality  of  this  grain 
Is  its  adaptation  to  longitudes  rather  than  latitudes.     There  is 
not  an  Esquimaux  Indian  basking  by  bis  lakeside  in  the  sun- 
shine of  his  brief,  hot  summer,  who  can  not  raise  and  ripen  one 
variety  or  another  of  maize.     From  the  delta  of  the  Mississi])pi 
to  the  remotest  spring-branch  that  supplies  Lake  Itasca,  the 
head  of  the  river,  this  crop  can  be  raised,  and  is  raised  and 
ripened  every  year.     What  folly,  then,  to  contradict  these  pal- 
pable facts !     The  same  reasoning  applies  to  wheat ;   yet,  iu 
fact,  we  live  too  far  south  for  sure  crops  of  winter  wheat. 
Those  choice  wheat-lands  of  Europe,  on  the  shores  of  the  Bal- 
tic, are  far  north  of  us.     At  Red  river,  many  hundred  miles 
north  of  St.  Paul,  they  raise  better  wheat  than  ever  goes  into 
the  markets  of  Milwaukee  or  Chicago.     There  is  not  a  plant 
of  any  description,  raised  in  Wisconsin,  that  does  not  ripen 
here.     We  have  tomatoes  here,  abundant  and  ripe,  in  a  garden 
Y/hich  was  not  fenced  until  June.    Last  season  we  gathered 


164 


MINNESOTA  AND   ITS   RESOURCES. 


cucumbers  in  November,  which  were  planted  very  late,  for 

l)icklcs. 

Our  soil  is  generally  productive ;  though  much  cf  it  is  sandy, 
it  is  a  very  productive  soil — not  as  compared  with  the  middle 
or  eastern  states,  but  as  compared  witJi  Wisconsin  and  Illinois. 
There  are  fields  here  which  the  French  have  cultivated  with- 
out  manuring  for  twenty  years,  which  produce  good  crops,  bar- 
ren as  the  soil  may  look  to  a  "  sucker"  from  tlie  bottoms  of 
Eel  river  or  the  Big  lluddy.  The  farmers  here,  on  the  aver- 
age,  get  larger  crops  per  acre  than  we  have  ever  seen  raised 
in  any  other  part  of  the  west.  AV e  do  not  say  that  all  ]\Iinne- 
sota  is  fertile ;  but  that  it  will  compare  favorably,  in  fertility, 
with  any  portion  of  the  world. 

Consider,  then,  our  advantages  iu  regard  to  health.  No  bil- 
ious fevers,  no  sliaking  with  ague  in  the  harvest-fields,  no  loss 
of  crops  by  sickness.     Is  this  nothing? 

Of  the  extent  and  value  of  our  home  market  for  produce,  it 
is  needless  to  speak.     In  no  other  part  of  the  West  is  there 
anything  like  an  equal  demand  for  agricultural  products  ;  to 
supply  the  Indian  tribes   on   the  ]\rinnesota  and  Mississippi 
rivers  ;  to  supply  the  forts,  and  to  sup])ly  the  great  and  'in- 
creasing business  of  the  pineries,  and  the  manufacture  of  lum- 
ber.    Every  farmer  has  a  natural  tariff  to  protect  him,  equal 
to  the  cost  of  shipping  the  same  kinds  of  produce  Avhich  ho 
oflcrs  in  market,  from  several  hundred  miles  below,  by  sti^'un- 
boat;  added  to  the  insurance  and  the  profits  of  tlie  produce 
dealer,  all  which  is  more  than  fifty  per  cent,  premium  in  his 
favor,  over  the  farmer  Mho  lives  down  the  river,  and  who  has 
no  such  home  market  as  ours  at  his  door.     Add  to  this  the 
cheapness  of  choice  lands  in  Minnesota,  our  freedom  from  the 
burden  of  a  state  government,  and  the  moral,  intelligent,  and 
industrious  character  of  our  people,  and  the  immigrant,  if  be 
is  a  man,  and  exnects  to  live  by  exertion,  will  Jiud  more  in- 
ducements to  make  his  home  iu  Minnesota,  than  in  any  of  the 
bilious  regions  south  of  it. 

There  is  a  demand  here  for  all  kinds  of  farming,  and  espe- 
cially for  dairying  and  stock-farming.  ]5(it  in  speaking  of 
farmers  particularly,  I  would  not  be  understood  to  intimate 


I) 


AORICl'LTLRE,    MANUFACTURES,    ETC.  105 

of  ilt™v  '  "v;'"'''''.'" "  ^-'-g-""'  for  ot1.e.-  bra„d,c« 
safe  ^  "  '"'""'■'  ■=""  ""■'™'  ""  °""=^  "'"='e'=t»  aro 

Our  market  for  all  that  can  be  raised  in  Minnesota,  for  years 

l^fe  1  -^  1     •    ^■'^-     ^  ""  ''™'"'«*™"'  "'«  i"  few  words, 
li.e  non.produc.ng  classes  among  „s  comprise  „p«-ard  of  fo-fv 

on-nd  n,hans,  and  son,c  ninety  thousand  whites,  the  I  ,t"t  "^ 
drnded  ,nto  traders,  merchants,  lumbermen,  soldie  s,  me  W 
.cs,  and  mannfacturers.     If  it  be  argued  that  the  former  „  i"l 

th,t  the  latter,  from  the  very  nature  of  our  cou„try_i,s  i„. 
cxhaustddo  wate,-,,„,ver,  and  its  interminable  forests  of  pine 
-M  II  ,„creas„  ,n  a  correspording  ratio.  The  Indians  and 
e  old.ers  must  be  fed  by  the  general  government.  The 
"U  pl.es   or  tlus  purpose  are  now  drawn  from  the  agricultural 

that  snbs,st  the,r  cattle,  from  Illinois,  Iowa,  and  Wisconsin 

I  h.s  w,  1  no.  u  can  not  be  the  case  when  our  own  fertile  ae r^ 

are  subdued  by  the  plough.     Look  at  our  prices-current  a   th i^ 

t.me    vj..,  April  10,  1850 -before  the  arrival  of  the  first  b  at 

from  below  with  our  .^lies-Hour  sold  at  ton  dollars  per  barrel 

ccn   .     Butter  was  sold  at  forty.flve  cents  per  pound,  and  U^s  and 

poultry  were  not  to  be  had  for  love  or  money  '«  <^==' M* 

I  want  it  distinctly  understood,  that  our  land  is  capable  of 

rrodue„.g  all  the  crops  that  are  raised  in  the  central  aL  west! 

ern  states.     F.fty  and  even  sixty  bushels  of  oats  are  fre„rent. 

ly  produced  from  an  acre  of  ground.     Potatoes  will  yield  in 

a  favorable  season,  three  hundred  bushels  to  the  acre     No 
one  competent  to  judge  doubts  the  efficacy  of  Minnesota  as  » 
v,heat-growing  region,  although  this  erop^has  n  t  beetthor 
oughly  tested  as  yet.    Our  prairies  are  not  large,  a  Tn  IH  - 
no,s  and  other  states.     Groves  of  timber  arc  fliekly  int  r- 

persed  over  them,  and  refreshing  springs  of  water.'^cr^s.al 
lakes,  and  clear  running  streams,  everywhere  abound.  If 
sheep  husbandry  or  cattle  rearing  bo  the  haziness  yon  wi^b  to 


166 


MINNESOTA.   AND   ITS   KES0URCE8. 


engage  in,  this  coiintry  is  the  place  for  you.     The  whole  ter 
ritoiy,  prairie   and   woodland,  is  one  immense  natural   pas 

turo. 

In  view  of  all  the  facts  I  have  stated,  I  can  not  place  my 
finger  upon  the  map  of  this  great  country  at  any  point  — Cali- 
fornia not  oxccpted,with  all  its  shining  dust  — that  prcsent8 
greater  inducements  to   immigrants  than  Minnesota.     Single 
men,  as  well  as  those  with  families,  of  industrious  habits,  will 
i'.iid  employment.     Farmers  and  mechanics  that  have  energy 
jind  perseverance  can  not  fail  to  succeed.     A  small  amount  of 
means  will  do  to  coniincnce  upon.     A  qf  nrter  section  of  land 
and   a  small  outfit,  with   industry,  will  afford  a  competency. 
]\rechanies  of  all  kinds  are  in  demand;  their  labor  and  wares 
will  command  a  high  price.     All  the  products  of  the  soil  find 
ii  ready  cash  market,  at  prices  that  richly  reward  the  farme:-. 
Thc*^  projected  line  of  railroad  from  New  Orleans  to  the 
falls  of  St.  Anthony  will,  when  completed,  bring  us  within  one 
day's  (twenty-four  hours)  travel  of  St.  Louis,  and  within  two 
days  of  New  Orleans.       A    six   hours'   journey   in   the     other 
direction,  liy  railroad,  will  bring  us  to  the  richest  mines  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Superior,  and  all  this,  without  equalling^  the 
speed  at  present  attained  on  some  of  the  eastern  roads.    What, 
then,  is  to  prevent  this  place  becoming  one  of  extensive  manu- 
factures 1     Oiir  water-power  is  unlimited,  and  easy  of  improve- 
ment.    The  materials  to  bo  manufactured  are  near  us  ;  and 
the  Mississippi  is  a   great  lnghw..y   for   the   transportation. 
Even  now,  the  cotton  and  wool  of  the  south  and  west  could  bo 
brought  here  and  returned  to  the  producers  at  much  less  ex- 
pense than  it  could  be  brought  to  and  from  New  England ; 
but  with  such  a  line  of  railroad  as  is  contemplated   we  are 
brought   ivito   the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  niines  of 
Lake  Superior  and  the  plantations  of  the  south.     And  who 
"  shall  say  that  the  mineral  of  one,  and  the  cottui;  of  the  other, 
will  not  soon  be  wrought  in  all  the  forms  of  art,  r.i-thc  fails  of 
St.  Anthony  ? 

The  proposed  route  from  St.  Louis  lies  through  th?,  valley 
of  the  Dcs  Moines  and  Blue-Earth  rivci  i,  ciossing  the  Hinne- 
Rotn  river  about  sixty  miles  from  its  mouth.     There  i-^  a  natu- 


^ 


i 


AauiciJi/n:RE,  manttfactures.  etc. 


167 


ral  grade  tlirougli  tlioHC  valleys  the  whole  clisfance,  and  thevo 
is  no  portion  of  the  west  more  fertile  than  the  lands  along  the 
whole  line,  'J'hcre  is  prohahly  no  railroad  in  the  world  which 
passes  through  so  rich  an  agricultural  country  for  so  long  a 
distance.  In  addition  to  that,  there  are  vast  mines  of  fossil 
coal  in  the  valh-y  of  the  iJcs  Moines,  which  such  a  road  would 
render  invaluahle. 

The  greater  part  of  the  Innds  along  this  route  is  now  owned 
hy  the  United  States.  What  a  field  of  enterprise  is  here 
opened  for  the  immigrant,  and  one,  too,  thaf  multitudes  are 
even  now  commencing  to  improve.  A  line  of  settlements  is 
estahlished  along  the  valley  of  the  Mir.nesota  river,  as  far 
as  the  mouth  of  the  JJlue-Earth  ;  and  several  towns  and 
villages  of  considerahle  magnitude  are  already  rising  into  im- 
portance. All  this  is  done  hefore  the  Indians  are  removed 
from  the  soil. 

I  have  received  from  Alexis  Bailly,  who  resides  at  Waha- 
shaw,  fooT,  of  Lake  I'epin,  on  the  west  or  Minnesota  side,  a 
sample  of  the  winter  wheat  raised  on  his  farm  last  season- 
a  so  specimens  of  the  soil  in  which  it  grew,  and  of  the  subsoil! 
Mr.  Bailly  says  in  his  note,  which  accompanies  the  packao-o- 
;'I  will  only  say  r<  lative  to  the  wheat,  that  it  was  seeded  late 
in  (Jctoher  last,  and  was  in  consequence  of  my  ahsence  this 
summer  a  good  deal  neglected,  and  notwithstanding  that,  it 
yields  above  forty  busliels  p^r  acre.'^ 

Mr.  Bailly  is  one  of  the  best-informed  citizens  of  Minnesota, 
and  havmg  been  ]..,rg,  ly  engag.d  i.i  t]n,  Indian  trade,  has  re- 
sided many  years  in  the  territorv.  I  pbice  a  verv  hb^h  esti- 
mate upon  hb.  opinion  of  the  opacities  of  our  soifauddin.ate 
for  agncultun.l  pursuits.  He  .iocs  not  doubt  th.-,*  Minnesota 
conl^uns   a  large  .pnutit.,  wheat-growing  soil,  ..hich   can 

not  be  surpassed  forihe  profitable  cultivation  of  that  very  val- 
liable  crop.  -^ 

Every  experiment  n.ad.  Is.  year  in  the  cultivation  of  winter 
wlH.it,  h.s  .su  led  in  the  most  gratifying  SUO.OSS.  I  hnve 
not  bcHui  able  toh.arn  a  single  case  of  failure.  Tl.is  inv.ln.ble 
crop  i.nds  a  gen.al  soil  and  clin.ate  at  the  foot  of  Lake  lYM.in, 
on  the  8t.  Cnux;   ,n   .ia-  innnediate  vicinity  of  St.  ]>aul  •  aud 


m 

tw 


Tilt'  'ij 


168 


MIJtNKSOTA    AND   ITS   RESOURCES. 


m 


at  Long  prairio,  north  forty-six  degrees.  Minnesota,  on  both 
sides  of  the  Mississippi,  must  therefore  be  noted  on  the  agri- 
cullural  map  as  a  wheat-growing  region,  unsurpassed,  in  all 
probability  unequalled,  in  the  hitherto  cultivated  regions  of 
the  west.  I  say,  unequalled,  and  firmly  believe  that  expe- 
rience will  abundantly  verify  this  opinion. 

During  the  winter  our  soil  is  torpid,  and  a  stranger  to  alter- 
nate thawing  and  fioezing.  During  most  winters  it  is  covered 
witli  a  tliick  mantle  of  snow,  but  there  have  been  winters  when 
there  was  little  or  no  snow  ;  but  during  such  seasons  there 
were  no  winter  thaws,  and,  as  a  general  fact,  the  soil  was  not 
sul)jcctto  heaving  on  the  breaking  up  of  winter.  The  reason 
why  most  of  our  soil  does  not  heave,  is  that  it  contains  a  due 
admixture  of  sand  —  the  kind  of  soil  that  neither  bakes  nor 
heaves  :  there  is  no  bettci*. 

The  surface-soil  in  Mr.  Bailly's  wheat-field,  as  shown  by 
the  specimens,  is  a  rich  black  loam,  containing  a  large  propor- 
tion of  humus.  The  sub-so-"'  is  argillaceous  —  a  friafile  yellow 
clay. 

I  should  like  to  see  some  of  our  farmers  attempt  the  experi- 
ment of  raising  sheep.  It  appears  that  sheep  might  be  raised 
in  this  country  with  profit  to  the  owner.  Of  course  the  farmer 
would  want  sheds  to  keep  them  in  during  the  winter,  for  the 
warmer  an  animal  is  kept  the  less  food  it  requires  to  sustain 
life.  The  fact  that  the  ground  is  so  long  covered  with  snow 
during  the  winter,  would  of  course  make  it  more  expensive  to 
keep  them  during  that  period  of  the  year,  but  I  believe  it  could 
be  done  with  profit  to  the  farmer.  At  any  rate,  I  want  to  see 
the  experiment  thoroughly  tried  before  believing  to  the  con- 
trary. Every  spring  our  butchers  bring  up  a  large  number 
of  sheep.  Having  just  been  sheared,  they  are  generally  the 
poorest-looking  animals  ever  beheld  ;  and  it  is  almost  enough 
to  make  one  sick  of  mutton  to  look  at  th(>m.  I^  .,  after  they 
have  run  around  toAvn  for  a  few  Avceks,  picking  of/  ;lie  short 
grass  to  he  found  in  our  streets,  they  become  as  fat  as  sheep 
generally  get  to  be  in  any  country.  They  could  not  be  recog- 
nised as  tlie  same  fiock,  unless  one  saw  them  eveiy  day, 
altliough  tliey  miglit  have  forty  ear-marks. 


AORICUI.TURK,    MANUFACTt'RKS,    KTC. 


169 


h 


7: 


Now  is  the  time  for  the  "  sliccp  buriiuess"  to  be  gone  into  in 
Minnesota  with  a  certainty  of  success  and  profit.  All  the  wool 
in  the  United  States  is  being  bought  up  in  advance  of  the  clip, 
at  enormous  prices.  The  rise  is  mainly  effected  by  the  gold 
discoveries  in  Australia,  where  the  shepherds  have  deserted 
their  flocks  by  hundreds  and  thousands,  and  gone  to  mining. 
The  supply  of  the  coarser  wools  used  in  English  manufactures 
is  thus  cut  off  to  a  great  extent ;  and  the  consequence  must  be 
a  rise  in  the  price  of  the  staple  throughout  the  commercial 
world. 

In  again  referring  .o  t.  -5  subject  of  wheat-growing,  I  would 
say  that  the  doubt  1  as  heretofore  existed  relative  to  the 

adaptation  of  Minnesc  soil  and  climate  to  the  growth  of  win- 
ter wheat,  can  no  longer  exist,  as  the  experience  of  the  two 
last  years  has  fully  demonstrated  that  winter  wheat  is  as  cer- 
tain and  as  profitable  a  crop  in  Minnesota  as  in  New  York  or 
Pennsylvania.  Corn  is  more  certain  and  fully  as  profitable 
as  in  either  of  those  states.  The  cultivation  is  no  more  ex- 
pensive, the  markets  as  convenient,  the  yield  as  abundant,  the 
prices  as  good,  and  owing  to  the  healthy  climate,  the  life  of 
the  former  is  longer  in  Minnesota,  than  in  any  portion  of  the 
Union. 

In  concluding  this  interesting  topic,  and  most  valuable  of  all 

the  interests  of  Minnesota,  let  me  refer  to  the  agricultural 

■  societies  already  formed,  and  in  successful  operation.     These 

societies  were  chartered  by  act  of  legislature  in  Ramsey  and 

Eenton  counties,  in    1851   and    1852.      The   Benton  county 

Bociety  met  for  the  first  time  on  the  16th  December,  1852,  at 

which  session   Oapt.  J.  B.  S.  Todd,  U.  S.  A.,  delivered  an 

interesting  address.     Captain  Todd,  though  occupied  in  the 

service  of  the  United  States,  commanding  the  frontier  post  of 

Fort  .Ripley,  deserves  much  credit  for  the  personal  attention 

he  has  paid  to  agriculture— proving  himself  a  practical  farmer 

indeed,  by  cultivating  a  large  tract  of  land  in  Benton  county, 

with  the  most  gratifying  success. 

Captain  Todd,  referring,  in  his  address,  to  the  agricultural 
statistics  of  Benton  county,  gave  the  society  the  following 
tacts  '-"^ 


8 


170 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    RESOURCES. 


^    '  Mr.  J.  Rufisoll,  residing  at  Sauk  Ila].i.ls,  l.as  under  cultiva 
tioii  one  lunulrcd  and  twenty  acres.     Tl.is  is  the  second  year 
ot  cultivation  ;  forty-five  acres  were  this  season  sown  in  spring? 
wheat,  and  yielded  one  thousand  bushels  — being  an  average 
of  twenty-two  bushels  per  acre;  forty  five  acres  were  sown  in 
oats,  producing  fifteen  hundred  bushels,  averaging  thirty-fivo 
busliels    per   acre;    the    remainder   was   planted   with    corn 
winter-wheat,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  other   articles  necessary 
to  a  farmer  for  his  own  use.     A  part  of  the  co.n  planted  was 
the  eight-rowed  flint  variety,  and  was  successful.     His  main 
crop  was  the  small  Red  Lake  variety,  planted  the  last  of  June, 
ihis  was  a  failure,  owing  to  the  quality  of  seed,  and  the  late- 
ness of  planting.     Most  of  the  corn  that  came  ripened  well  • 
little  attention  was  paid  to  it  after  planting.     Last  year  the 
experiment  of  raising  winter-wheat  was  not  satisfactory,  as 
was  generally  the  case;  and  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  want  of 
snow,  so  unusual  with  us.     This  year  four  or  five  acres  have 
been  sown,  and  thus  far  with  every  prospect  of  success  — ruta- 
bagas yielding  as  high  as  twelve  hundred  bushels  to  the  acre." 
Twelve  hundred  bushels  of  turnips  to  the  acre  is  a  good 
crop,  and  worth  talking  about ;  but  the  other  productions  are 
worthy  also  of  particular  notice,   as    showing  that  the  farm 
spoken  of,  although  in  its  infancy,  is  capable  of  yielding  a 
handsome  income  to  the  proprietor. 

The  following  is  given  as  a  proof  of  what  can  be  done  in 
beef  and  pork,  and  other  productions  :  — 

"  The  farm  of  Mr.  Oilman  lies  six  miles  north,  and  is  an 
example  of  our  timbered  bottom  lands,  lying  directly  on  the 
river,  and  for  fertility  of  soil  is  not  exceeded  by  any  ;  it  con- 
tains one  hundred  acres  under  cultivation.  In  1850,  there 
were  fifty  acres  sown  in  oats,  yielding  two  thousand  five  huu- 
dretl  bushels,  averaging  fifty  bushels  to  the  acre,  and  thirty- 
eight  pounds  to  the  busliel.  Four  hundred  bushels  were  sold  at 
fifty  cents,  and  the  remainder  at  an  average  of  eighty-seven 
cents  ;  twenty  acres  were  groAvn  in  corn,  yielding  one  thousand 
bushels,  or  fifty  bushels  per  acre,  and  sold  at  one  dollar  per 
bushel.  This  year  it  has  been  mostly  planted  in  corn.  The 
eecd  was  taken  from  last  year's  growth,  cribbed  in  the  usuaj 


AGEICULTURE,    MANUFACTURES,    ETC. 


171 


manner,  but  from  severe  freezinp-,  was  so  mncli  injured  as  to 
require  three  plantings;  that  ^vhich  ripened  is  considered  as 
good  as  can  be  grown.  The  samples  before  the  society  speak 
for  themselves  ;  the  remainder  was  fed  to  stock.  Mr.  Oilman 
has  killed  six  thousand  pounds  of  beef,  and  two  thousand 
pounds  of  pork  this  fall,  of  his  own  raising  and  fattening.  But 
a  small  quantity  of  oats  were  sown.  AYheat  has  no^t  been 
tried.  The  yield  of  buckwheat  is  as  thirty  to  one.  This  farm 
was  opened  in  1850. 

"The  farm  of  Mr.  John  Depue  lies  eleven  miles  north  of 
this,  and  is  an  admirable  specimen  of  the  prairie  lands  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  county.  It  lies  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Piatt  river,  about  two  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, upon  the  second  bench  in  the  edge  of  a  beautiful 
growth  of  oak,  and  extending  into  a  prairie  destined  soon  to 
become  one  of  the  most  thickly-settled  parts  of  the  country. 
It  now  embraces  one  hundred  and  forty  acres  of  cultivated 
land,  was  begun  two  years  ago,  and  planted  in  corn,  oats, 
potatoes,  turnips,  &c.  It  produced  twelve  hundred  bushels  of 
oats,  sold  at  one  dollar  per  bushel;  two  hundred  bushels  of 
corn  which  matured  well,  without  special  attention,  for  which 
two  dollars  per  bushel  was  offered  and  refused  ;  five  hundred 
bushels  of  potatoes,  and  one  thousand  bushels  of  rutabagas  — 
the  surplus  potatoes,  over  the  demand  for  the  farm,  were  sold 
at  seventy-five  cents  — the  rutabagas  were  fed  to  stock. 

This  year  it  produced  eighteen  hundred  bushels  of  oats,  now 
selling  at  the  door  for  seventy-five  cents,  and  tM'o  hundred 
and  fifty  bushels  of  spring-wheat  of  superior  quality  The 
proprietor  has  fattened  and  killed  his  own  pork  and  beef,  and 
with  ^commendable  resolution,  determines  to  do  so  in  future  or 
go  without.  Winter-wheat  was  tried  last  year,  but  failed  a's  a 
crop,  under  similar  circumstances  with  that  of  Mr.  Ilussell  " 

This  society  is  a  valuable  institution,  not  only  to  Benton 
county  but  to  the  whole  territory ;  for  by  the  publication  of  its 
proceedings,  rivalry  is  created  among  the  farmers  of  other 
counties,  and  attention  attracted  in  ihc  states,  and  in  forei-n 
countries,  to  the  ease  and  rapidity  with  which  a  husbandman 
can  get  rich  m  this  inviting  country  ;  and  renewed  efio?ts  will 


172 


JHINNESOTA    AND    1T8    KESOUJRCES. 


ill  consequence  be  made  by  those  now  engnged  in  ap-ipultnre, 
each  county  cndeuvoring  to  outstrip  the  other,  and  immigration 
will  increase  to  such  an  extent  as  to  exceed  the  anticipation 
of  the  most  enthusiastic  well-wisher  of  the  territory." 

These  statistics  of  Capt.  Todd  referred  to  the  year  1852,  and 
the  increase  upon  these  facts  within  the  past  year,  will  bo 
iT.'idily  conceived  by  all. 

I    cannot   close    this    agricultural    chapter   without   stating  to 
tilt  timid,  that  settlements  can  now  bo  made  in  our  valleys  without 
haviiig  Indians  for  neighbors.     'J^iousands  have  been  waiting 
for  these  very  lands  to  be  purchased  and  brought  into  market, 
who  will  be  on  the  ground  early  to  make  settlements. 

This  territory  lias  not  so  many  small  streams  as  Ncav  Eng- 
land, but  immensely  more  beautiful  lakes  and  level  country. 
In  many  portions,  too,  there  is  not  so  much,  nor  so  great  a 
variety  of  timber;  but  we  have  fiue  prairies  and  natural 
meadows,  and  suflicient  woodland  for  all  necessary  purposes. 
And  we  have  one  kind  of  wood  here,  which,  though  small, 
promises  to  be  of  much  value ;  it  is  the  hasJ<el-unUow. 

There  is  much  said  of  late  in  agricultural  and  other  papers 
about  the  immense  profit  of  cultivating  the  osier;  and  it  is  also 
stated  that  five  millions  of  dollars'  worth  of  it  is  imported  from 
France  and  Germany  every  year.  Yet  there  is  considerable 
of  the  best  variety  of  this  article  growing  wild  in  our  imme- 
diate vicinity.  This  might  bo  much  improved  by  cultivation, 
and  readily  supply  the  place  of  the  imported  willow.  We 
have  a  German  here  who  has  been  familiar  with  the  cultivation 
of  it  in  his  own  country,  and  who  has  been  busily  engaged 
the  past  season  in  making  most  beautiful  baskets  from  our 
native  growth.  He  informs  me  that  this  is  the  best  article  of 
the  kind  he  has  ever  seen;  that  it  is  tougher  and  stronger  than 
tlie  imported  willow.  It  is  not,  of  course,  so  straight  and  uni- 
form in  size  as  though  it  was  cultivated,  but  this  is  easily 
remedied,  and  the  cultivation  of  it  will  be  commenced  early 
the  coming  spring.  It  will  not  be  at  all  strange  if  within  five 
years  the  basket-willow  should  become  an  important  article 
^f  export  from  this  territory. 


FACILITIES    roil   TIUVEL. 


173 


i 


CHAPTER    X. 

FACUTI.S    rou    TRAVEL  -  RAILROADS    TIIROUan     AND    TOWARD 

MINNESOTA. 

oi  interest  to  know  what  arc  tl.c  facilities  for  travel  wl.ern 

«l.oie  we  are  to  send  o„r  products  when  we  arc  so  m-osperous 
a  to  have  a  surplus.  To  these  questions  we  will  e  uleroMo 
S'>o  as  concise  an  answer  as  possible.  Our  nre.e  r  f 
coniniunieation  with  the  east  is  by  to  w  v  of  r  1 

.":;■;  .";.7z,7:ru :,  ;-,,riis-  'j*-; 

other  radroad  is  in  progress  from  Milwaukee  to  P°le  L." 
Crosse,  a  sm.all  but  rapidly-growine  town  on  tl!  t  ■  . 
river,  nearly  two  hundiLl  faifes  above  Gae"      Th    '"T"?'" 

faciliriesfor  travel    Lib     fn;"\"'?',  ""'''  "^^^"  *^^-« 

thony  will  rank  w  tl   S     ..         m  '''^^'''^'  '^'^  ^""^  '^  ^'-  ^»- 
■^         lank  with  Saratoga,  Newport,  and  the  White  moun- 


174 


MINNKHOTA    AND   IXa   UESOUBCES. 


II  h 


m 


tains,  as  a  place  of  summer  resort.  Much  of  our  mcrchandiso 
already  comes  from  Boston  and  New  York,  notwithstanding  wo 
often  have  low  water,  and  very  slow  and  tedious  river  navigation. 
The  amount  will  of  course  bo  increased  with  the  case  and  cheap- 
ness of  transportation. 

But  another  enterprise  has  been  commenced,  which  promises  even 
more  for  our  territory  than  those  I  have  mentioned.  It  is  a  con- 
tuiHi'Us  fine  of  idilroad  from  Kew  Orleans  to  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony!  nuiuing  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi  river, 
through  the  best  portions  of  Arkansas,  Missouri,  Iowa,  and  Minne- 
sota. Starting  from  the  city  of  New  Orleans,  the  New  Orleans, 
Jackson,  and  Great  Northern  llailroad,  to  Canton,  Miss.,  forms  the 
first  link;  the  IMississippi  Central  llailroad,  to  Grenada,  forms  the 
second  link  ;  and  the  Mississippi  and  Tennessee  Railroad,  reaching 
from  Grenada  to  Memphis,  Tcnn.,  forms  the  third  link  in  i.Vis  im- 
portant chain  of  communication. 

On  these  throe  links  the  work  has  been  progressing  more  than 
four  years,  and  the  line  of  road  is  now  finished  from  New  Orleans 
to  Memphis,  the  distance  being  "OO  miles. 

Crossing  the  river  at  Memphis,  the  Arkansas  link,  which  ex- 
tends a  distance  of  seventy  miles,  is  provided  for  by  an  organized 
company,  who  can  build  the  road  with  case,  as  the  whole  line  is 
laid  out  over  a  level  surface,  and  the  people  of  Memphis  arc 
enthusiastic  in  its  favor. 

From  Arkansas,  passing  the  Iron  Mountain  of  IMIssouri,  to  the 
city  of  St.  Louis,  a  distance  of  220  miles,  the  line  is  under  the 
charge  of  the  St.  Louis  and  Iron  Mountain  llailroad  Company. 
From  St.  Louis  to  St.  Charles,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  the  North 
Missouri  llailroad  is  finished,  and  the  road  in  operation.  From  St. 
Charles  to  Keokuk,  140  miles,  the  line  is  under  the  charge  of  the 
Mississippi  A^allcy  llailroad.  From  Keokuk  to  Muscatine  the  lino 
has  been  surveyed.  Muscatine  and  Davenport  are  united  by  a  rail- 
road communication. 

The  Minnesota  road,  from  Dubuque  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
about  200  miles,  the  northern  end  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  Rail- 
road, which  Minnesota  road  is  also  extended  north  to  Lake  Superior, 
is  provided  for  by  an  organized  company  of  New  York  capitalists, 
having  $10,000,000  subscribed,  and  $100,000  now  lying  in  their 
treasury. 


FACILITIES   FOR  TllAVEL. 


175 


^1 


>  i 


M 


From  all  which  facts  it  appears  that  the  Mississippi  ^'illoy  RVtl- 
road  IS  1-200  miles  in  length  from  the  (lulf  of  Mexico  to  the  Falls 
of  &t.  Anthony;  and  that  every  link  in  this  vast  chain,  except  that 
of  the  Iowa  and  Minnesota  road,  is  now  ready  for  the  final  process 
of  connection.  * 

"A  railroad  from  Minnesota  to  Now  Orleans,  compctin-  with 
the  great  Father  of  Waters  throughout  its  course,  and  joining  in 
close  fellowship  the  six  months'  snows  of  Lake  Superior  with  the 
perpetual  summer  of  the    Gulf  of  Mexico!     That  is   the   latest 
project  to  which  the  extraordinary  enterprise  of  the  republic  has 
given   birth,  and  one  which,  in  its  gigantic  proportions,  is  little 
likely  to  bo  paralleled.     Mr.  Whitney's  scheme  for  uniting  with 
iron  bands  the  waters  of  the  two  great  oceans,  exceeds  it  in  im- 
iiiensity,  but  will  boar  no  comparison  with  it  in  regard  to  feasibility 
Ills  route  for  the  most  part  runs  through  arid  wastes,  now,  and  for 
generations  to  come,  devoid  both  of  necessities  and  facilitio ,  for  an 
undertaking   of    the   kind.      The   road    of    which    we   speak   ^s 
dissimilar  to  it  in  all  respects  save  one.     In  proporti^  n,  the  lino 
from  the  extreme  north  to  the  far  south  yields  the  palm  to  the 
indomitable  advocate  of  the  Pacific  line,  but  in  every  other  par- 
ticular It  IS  immeasurably  superior.     It  starts  from  a  point  lust 
opemng   to   civilization,    it   is    true,  but   one   that   is   manifestly 
des  ined    o  achieve  an  unexampled  growth;  and  thence,  running 
southward,  it  opens  to  market  the  broad  prairies  of  Iowa,  exact! 
ribute  from  the  fertile  soil  of  Missouri,  and,  having  stopped  for 
breath   a     the   commercial   emporium   of  the   west,   proceeds   to 
traverse  the  gorgeous  savannahs  of  Arkansas  and  the  rich  planta- 
tions  of  Louisiana,  (inally  pouring  its  accumulated  treasures  into 
the  lap  of  New  Orleans.     It  traverses  a  route  which  may  be  fairly 
estimated,  in  round  figures,  at  some  two  thousand  miles,  already 
possessed  of  an  enormous  river  traffic,  and  more  or  less  thickly 
settled  at  every  important  point. 

'' The  wealthiest  and  most  sagacious  capitalists  of  St.  Louis 
have  embarked  in  the  enterprise,  with  a  far-seeing  and  patriotic 
de  ermination  to  achieve  success.     Thousands  of  capitalists  along 

\t  n  M  '  VT''^  '^''''  '^  ^°^^«  '^^-^P^r^t^  ^ith  zeal  and 
liberality.  New  Orleans  embarked  in  the  work  with  enthusiastic 
energy,  and  before  three  years  pass  away  the  New  Orleans  and 
Minnesota  Railroad  will  be  hailed,  through'out  the  west  and  south' 
as  one  of  the  greatest   improvements   of  the  age.     No  grander 


ll^ll 


.^* 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


"-  IIIM 

»50     '""= 


M 

2.2 


2.0 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4 

1.6 

===== 

M 

6"     — 

► 

V] 


m  ^ 


=# 


'•'^^     />^ 


'^^<'»'  .^  '  4 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


72  WEST  MAIN  STREC 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


^km. 


175 


MINx\E80TA  AND  ITS  RESOURCES. 


scheme  was  ever  projected  for  the  promotion  of  man's  empire  over 
the  very  chmatos  of  the  earth,  and  no  enterprise  has  ever  before 
been^  unfolded  that  will  take  a  stronger  hold  upon  the  hearts  and 
imaginations  of  men. 

"The  project  is  pregnant  with  great  considerations,  both  in  a 
political   and   commercial   sense.     It  will  unite  climates  that  arei 
unhke  m  their  nature  and  products,  and  it  will  give  a  common! 
aim    and    interest   to    people   differing  widely   in   their  circum-' 
stances    and    pursuits.      It  will   form   a   new  guaranty  for  the 
perpetuity  of  the   Union,  and  will  contribute   more   than  l:  s! 
ation   to   smother  sectional   strife.      It   will   secure   to   the   ex 
treme   northwest  its  legitimate   markets,   and  will   more   ranidfv 
attract  to  it  the  capital  and  labor  needed  t'o  develop  its  ml    S 
resources.  ■'  '"oUiu^^cjn 

"In  this  grand  work  the  people  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  Anthony 

have  a  common  and  united  interest.     When  it  shall  have  been 

completed,    ^the    sister    cities'   will    be    viewed    as    upplr    and 

ower    towns    of    the    same    great    metropolis,    which'^w  11    be 

and    Sainf  r    "^M"'  "'^'  of  New  Orleans  is  to  the  south 

and    Saint   Louis    to  the    centre -a  railroad    and    commercia 

erminus,    a  grand   centre   of  trade,   and   also,  what   n ether     f 

the  we^    '  ''"  '"''  ''  '^'  manufactory  and  workshop  of 

"No  portion  of  our  flourishing  country  promises  to  enjoy  a 
more   bnlhant_  destiny  than   Minnesota;   and   St.  Paul   and^St 
Anthony  conjoined  must  become  the  commercial  and  manufacturing; 
hear  ,  not  only  of  Minnesota,  but  of  the  vast  domain  surr  S 
It    s^etclnng  from  Lake    Superior  to  the  Ilocky  Mountah"    S 

can  eTnd.'' '  '"'  ""  "  '"  ""*'  ''  ^""^'^  ^"^-P™- 

Ihe  above  is  a  work  of  vast  magnitude,  and  before  three  years 
have  expired  we  may  be  able  to  exchange,  by  railroad  transporta 
tion,    the   staple   products   of  the   northwest'  for   the  fresh^  ard 
npe  fruits  of  the  tropics,  and,  measuring  distance  by  time,  St.  Paul 
will  bo  as  near  New  Orleans  as  it  now  is  to  Galeua.     The  enter 
prise  IS  truly  magnificent.  ^^ 

A  railroad  extending  one  hundred  miles,  of  easy  and  cheap  con- 
struction, would  connect  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi  with 
the  novigable  waters  of  the  Red  river  of  the  north.  Another 
road  of  one  hundred  miles  would  wed  the  Mississippi  to  Lake 


-i 


FACILITIES    FOB   TBA7EL.  ^/^/^ 

cLoico  of  f„  o^s.orn'o"'::::;^'!^:-™-  <"■  "■»  yea.  the 

A  road  ,s  also  projected  fro,„  St.  Paul  to  Green  Bav     Tl  • 
*M  bring  „s  vvitMu  ten  hours  of  Lake  lU Ll-      ^'    ,    "' 
soon  as  the  road  from  Tn,.„,„    *    r,        .    ^^'e'l'S-i".  "ml,  as 

Within  «ft,...i.  t'rof  T  „ :  ''t:'Tv>  r  '=?'"'='^''' 

.nents  usually  urged  in  fnvof  grant"  of  t  u"    ,°  *'"  "'«"- 
road  and  other  improvement,  tlf      ?•     , '  '"'"'  '"  '""• 

tl.is  case,  which  slolt  ce  he'T,  r'  '"'^°"'  "P^'^'  '« 
the  enterprise      I'l,.  ,-!    """'"  "'^  '"'"oral  government  to  aid 

nnsurveyel  h',et  of  eo  7™"  ?'"  ""'""g''  •■•"  ""settled  and 
Fewotlferroas  are  0  "'■'';  1'  T"  "P^"  "'  *»  ^^tJement. 
tory  of  the  Uni  ed  St„  f  •/'  '""  "'™»^te  "'  «  terri- 

as  fo  ei.ortL'Jhrpii'  *„7i::t:i^?  r^-""^  "= ^^'"^-»'' 

the  federal  treasL/„f  the  b«  C"f  ■r"''""°'  "'"'  '•'''^™ 
railroads  have  been  con,tl,  ,  i  ™PI""*     hitherto 

toinessoftheirVespectivo  ",;•'""'''  *'"  ^^"'^">^"'  »"i 
them.  The  e^perimen  rf  b,  in  '  ""'"  f  ™"''°''  "  '"'"'•"'i 
country  and  makers  ;1  "'  "  '"'"'  "'  "'"^e'- '"  settle  a 

proposed  eucirre^'e ZeTt'  ^  'Z'?/'^-  ''^-  ^"''-7 
reflect  what  the  Erie  eaTaT  L  \,  I""' '™'"  ""'li^** 
have  done  for  the  Lttlemen,  S  .l' '■"'?''  "P""  "»  banks 

ture.  may  l,y  ptpeTv  be  e?""''  "",'  ''=''  "'  "'«  '«^' 'egisla- 
ters  paes^ed  du7ng1  e'sessi„r  We  ™™™  ™''°'"'  '''- 
looked  upon  by  many  a  cTim^iel  I'T  "™™  """  "'"^  "■■« 
«y«™.^  as  chimerical  in  the  sctt:me,";t  oTt,""  """  """^'"^^ 
the  Mississippi.  Our  long  resW  ncTi^he  W  ^.T  """^  "^ 
us  to  observe  the  rinid  ,L  ™f  ™  'he  West  has  enabled 
pations  of  tllZtlZfT  ,  ■='"''•-'-"•  'J^he  antiei- 
we  can  not  at  7uZ!Z     T%  ^'"'"  '"  ^'"'  »'"Ta«3ed,  f.at 

get  beyond  rea  i ^  ^we Zf  ™m      '™""'  "'  '"■'^S'"'"'-  '» 
ress.  •'^         ''™"'  ""Provcment,  and  western  prog. 

8* 


I    ■  ,r 


il       I 


p 


173 


MINNESOTA   AND    ITS   RESOURCES. 


I  ■ 


"  We  can  look  back  a  few  short  years,  when  the  commerce 
of  tlie  ]\Iissi8sippi  and  JMissonri  was  carried  ou  by  keel-boats, 
and  we  once  made  a  quick  trip  from  St.  Louis  to  ]\Iinnesota  in 
forty-ono  days.     At  that  time  the  idea  of  navigating  the  Up- 
per Mississippi  with  steamboats,  above  the  foot  of  the  lower 
iai)ids,  would  have  been  considered  much  more   chimerical 
than  would  a  project  for  throwing  a  suspension  bridge  across 
Behring's  straits   at  the  present  day.     We  made  a  trip  on 
hors(iback   from   the   Mississippi   to  Chicago,  and  could   get 
neither  eggs  nor  pork  to  cat  at  any  of  the  squatters'  huts  wo 
stopped  at.     Now  there  is  produce  enough  raised  between  the 
Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers  to  feed  half  of  the  starving  pop- 
ulation of  Europe.     We  travelled  in  a  stage  (an  open  wagon) 
from   Galena  to   Chicago  when  the  trip  was  made  in  eight 
days,  and  when  the  itossihility  of  staging  on  that  route  was  by 
no  means  clear  to  the  proprietors,  and  each  passenger  was 
obliged  to  walk  and  carry  a  rail  to  assist  the  team  through 
the  sloughs.     Now  a  railroad  is  near  completion  which  will 
travel  over  the  same  space  in  eight  hours.      We  were  at  one 
time  one  of  the  only  three  white  men  residing  within    the 
limits  of  the  present  state  of  Iowa,  which  now  has  a  popu- 
lation of  over  four  hundred  thousand.     In  our  own  beautiful 
territory  we  have  made  many  trips  between  Prairie  du  Chien 
and  ^lendota,  and  from  Mendota  to  Traverse  des  Sioux,  when 
the  hotels  we  lodged  at  were  in  the  open  air,  and  our  table 
furnished  from  the  supply  we  carried,  or  from  the  game  killed 
on  the  route.  ^  Yet,  with  the  blessing  of  God,  we  hope  yet  to 
travel  in  a  railroad  car,  on  a  continuous  route  from  the  Minne- 
sota river  to  New  Orleans,  and  \Q\y  prohahly  to  San  Francisco. 
"Each  railroad  charter  granted  at  the  late  session,  with  one 
exception,  is  a  connecting  link  in  some  great  chain  of  road 
which  is  not  only  contemplated,  but  progressing  south  or  east 
of  us.     Does  any  one  doubt  the  completion,  at  an  early  day, 
of  the  Louisiana  and  Minnesota  railroad  ?     Does  any  one  for 
a  moment  believe  that  the  Illinois  central  railroad  will  rush 
up  to  the  shore  of  the  Mississippi  opposite  Dubuque,  survey  for 
a  moment  the  vast  expanse  of  country  Avest  of  the  Father  of 
Waters,  and  then,  affrighted,  turn  and  seek  again  the  shores 


ti 


FACILITIES   FOR    TRAVEL. 


179 


of  tl.o  Atlantic?     No  such  thing;  there  is  nothing  in  those 
beautiful  prairies,  fertile  fields,  or  busy  manufacturing  towns, 
west  of  the  Mississippi  calculated  to  deter  the  '  iron  horse ' 
Thousands  are  now  living  who  will  see  him  bound  across  the 
bridge  wh  ch  will  be  thrown  over  and  high  above  the  surface 
of  the  stream,  ami  rush  forward  to  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota, 
through  the  most  lovely,  healthy,  and  wealthy  agricultural 
portions  of  the  globe.     After  a  momentary  pause,  to  select  the 
route,  his  progress  is  again  onward,  with  caloric  speed  to  the 
shc.e  of  that  copper-bottomed  inland  sea,  Superior,  where  he 
will  neigh  in  concert  with  his  brothers  from  the  Atlantic  in  the 
east,  and  from  Puget's  sound  in  the  great  northwest. 

"  ^oe«  '-^"7  0"e  doubt  the  early  completion  of  a  railroad  from 
the  Mississippi  to  San  Francisco  ?  In  a  few  years  his  doubts 
will  be  dispelled,  and  stern  reality  will  show  a  revolution  in 
the  commerce  of  the  world.  Our  t»as,  and  all  our  Asiatic 
stuflFs  which  we  now  receive  by  a  .ardy,  dangerous,  and  ex- 
pensive route  through  Europe  and  our  Atlantic  cities,  will  be 
brought  direct  from  the  Pacific,  and  supplies  will  reach  the 
Atlantic  by  way  of  Minnesota. 

"  Those  who  may  have  doubts  on  the  progress  and  early 
completion  of  these  improvements,  we  ask  to  look  back  on  the 
past.     Examine  the  railroads  now  in  operation  in  the  eastern 
states,  where  the  expense  of  constructing  one  mile  of  road  will 
construct  five  miles  over  our  flat  prairies.     If  any  one  doubts 
the  business  being  sufficient  to  support  these  roads,  we  would 
refer  him  to  the  debates  in  the  New  York  legislature  during 
the  consideration  of  the  charters  for  the  road  between  Buffalo 
and  Albany.     The  opponents  of  those  charters  based  their 
arguments  on  the  supposition  that  a  railroad  would  destroy 
the  business  of  the  canal.    But  time  has  shown  that  the  canal 
has  not  the  capacity  to  do  the  business  necessary,  in  addition 
to  that  done  by  the  railroad.     And  while  further  privileges 
or  transportation  have  been  granted  the  railroads,  the  en- 
largement of  the  canal  has  been  found  necessary. 

rJi^^*A?f  *•  -^"""^  """'^  St.  Anthony  railroad  we  need  say  but 
little.  Although  isolated  and  alone,  its  early  completion  is 
just  as  certain  as  that  the  sun  will  rise  to-morrow  morning  • 


I 


180 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS    RESOURCES. 


and  the  foolish  rivahy  betweon  St.  Taul  and  St.  Anthony 
"will  tl)on  cease." 

Eastern  capitalists  are  now  investing  in  this  last  enterprise, 
and  the  contractors  arc  expected  on  to  build  the  road  the  en- 
suing spring.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  before  this  vol- 
ume meets  the  reader's  eye,  the  work  will  be  surveyed  and 
under  full  headway. 

I  desire  to  call  the  attention  of  capitalists  abroad,  and  our 
neighbors  at  home,  to  the  value,  importance,  and  practicability 
ot  constructing,  at  an  early  day,  a  railroad  from  St.  Paul  to  the 
St.  Louis  river  of  Lake  Superior.  Wo  are  informed  by  those 
acquainted  with  the  topography  of  the  country  between  the 
two  points,  that  the  route  is  a  good  one  for  the  construction  of 
a  railroad. 

The  Lake  Superior  country  is  the  greatest  mining  district 
m  the  world,  and  will  support  and  soon  contain  a  vast  popu- 
lation engaged  in  that  branch  of  industry.  Its  mineral  wealth 
is  inexhaustible,  and  its  copper  and  iron  ore  the  best  that 
have  yet  been  discovered.  The  copper  ore  of  the  famous 
mines  of  Cornwall,  England,  yield  but  about  eight  per  cent, 
of  pure  metal  —  that  of  Lake  Superior  twenty  per  cent. 

The  iron  of  Lake  Superior  is  preferred  among  the  iron- 
workers at  Pittsburgh  to  that  of  Sweden,  and  commands  a 
higher  price.     Its  remarkable  malleability  peculiarly  adapts 
it  for  boiler  iron  and  machinery.    Messrs.  Foster  fjid  Whitney, 
in  their  late  geological  report  to  the  United  Stat'    government, 
speaking  of  the  iron  of  this  district,  say :  "  It  is  to  this  source 
that  the  great  West  will  ultimately  look  for  its  supplies  of  the 
finer  varieties  of  bar-iron  and  steel.     The  '  iron  mountain'  of 
Missouri  becomes  insignificant  compared  with  these  immense 
deposites.     This  region  also  contains  extensive  beds  of  marble, 
which  will  prove  of  much  economical  value  for  fluxing  the  ores 
and  in  yielding  lime,  while,  with  care,  blocks  for  archifjctural 
and  ornamental  purposes  can  be  obtained.     Flesh-red  is  the 
prevciiling  tint  with  veins  of  a  deeper  hue.     The  novaculite 
slates  are  valuable,  affording  honea  equal  to  the  Turkey  or 
Scotch  stones." 

A  railroad  from  St.  Paul  a  little  more  than  one  hundred 


FACTLITIRS    FOR   TRAVEL. 


181 


Antl 


loiiy 


nterprise, 

tl  the  en- 

tliis  vol- 

lycH  and 

.  and  our 
ticability 
lul  to  tho 
by  tho.so 
veen  the 
nction  of 

',  district 
ist  popu- 
il  wealth 
)est  that 
famous 
per  cent, 
t. 

he  iron- 
nands  a 
'  adapts 
Whitney, 
irnment, 
s  source 
5S  of  the 
itain'  of 
mmense 
marble, 
the  ores 
t'jctural 
d  is  the 
t^aculite 
rkey  or 

undred 


m.lcs  in  length,  will  unite  tho  lake  and  the  Mississippi,  and 
make  the  most  important  business  point  on  the  Mississippi 
above  St  Lou.s.  It  would  be  the  direct  and  travelled  route 
from  the  Mississippi  valley  to  Lake  Superior,  and  open  up  to 
the  farmers  of  Minnesota  a  valuable  market  for  their  surplus 
products.  They  have  nothing  to  export  now.  but  will,  i^,  a 
lew  years,  have  an  abundance. 

The  canal  around  the  falls  of  Ste.  Mario  has  been  constructed, 
and  from  this  time  forth,  in  connection  with  the  proposed  road 
wo  will  have  a  complete  lake  and  railroad  communication' 
with  all  the  commercial  cities  of  tho  east.  I  hope  to  be  able 
to  present  facts  that  will  tend  to  convince  all  that  have  the 
prosperity  of  Minnesota  at  heart,  as  well  as  those  who  are 
seeking  safe  railroad  investments  for  their  capital,  that  we 
Have  not  too  soon  called  their  attention  to  the  proposed  enter- 
prise.  ^ 

^  Argument  is  unnecessary  to  convince  any  person  of  common 
information,  that  the  construction  of  this  road  is  of  immense 
importance  to  the  prosperity  of  Minnesota  in  general,  and  St. 
1  aul  in  particular.  It  is  true  that  the  road  will  not  pay  if  im- 
mediately  constructed,  but  now  is  the  opportune  moment -as 
we  have  obtained  the  necessary  grant  of  land  from  Congress. 
Ihe  sooner  the  better ;  and  then  all  doubt  about  the  construe- 
tion  of  this  vast  improvement  will  be  removed,  and  St.  Paul 
will  loom  up  on  the  map  as  a  prospective  city  of  the  first 
magnitude. 

^  Construct  this  road  and  the  mineral  of  Lake  Superior  des- 
tined for  the  Mississippi  valley,  and  gulf  commerce,  will  pass 
through  St.  Paul,  as  well  as  a  large  proportion  of  the  agricul- 
tiiral  supplies,  and  southern  products  consumed  on  the  lake 
On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  we  have  a  country  destined  ere 
many  years,  to  become  the  most  flourishing  agricultural  re- 
gion of  the  west,  and  this  road  will  make  St.  Paul  the  depot 
of  Its  products  to  supply  tl,e  lakes,  and  for  shipment  east  and 
to  the  North  Atlantic.     This  road  will  bring  St.  Paul  as  near 
m  cost  of  transportation  to  the  eastern  cities,  as  Galena  will 
be  with  her  railroad  finished,  which  will  insure  the  continu- 
ance at  St.  Paul  of  the  great  mercantile  centre  for  the  trado 


183 


MINNESOTA   AND    ITS    KESOURCIiS. 


i  i 


of  tlie  northwost,  A  largo  city  will  also  grow  np  at  the  liead 
of  Lake  Superior,  -vvhicli  will  l)o  a  benefit  to  St.  Paul,  because 
it  will  bo  the  depAt  of  the  lake  trade.  The  two  cities  will  bo 
partners  and  mutual  aids  in  prosperity ;  and,  making,  at  the 
same  time,  a  monopoly  and  a  division  of  the  northwestern 
trade,  they  will  sustain  each  other  in  its  accumulation  and 
.possession.  Their  relative  position  and  mutual  interests  will 
(be  the  same  as  exists  between  Cincinnati  and  Cleveland,  both 
of  which  cities  have  been  vastly  benefited  by  the  iron  road 
which  unites  their  prosperity  and  destiny. 

This  improvement,  as  well  as  all  others  that  will  secure 
cheap  and  expeditious  means  of  travel  and  transportation  to 
and  from  the  states,  will  increase  the  productive  wealth  of  the 
territory  and  the  happiness  of  its  citizens  generally,  and  very 
soon  obviate  the  objection  to  Minnesota  that  it  is  too  far  away 
from  the  populous  portions  of  the  Union.  Railroads  will  anni- 
hilate the  formidable  distance  which  separates  us  from  our  old 
homes  and  friends  in  the  states ;  railroads  will  bring  thousands 
and  tens  of  thousands  of  people  and  millions  of  money  to  our 
territory,  that  would  not  otherwise  come ;  railroads  will  save 
our  people  millions  of  dollars  in  the  value  of  time  and  expenses 
of  travel  and  transportation ;  railroads  will  increase  our  steam- 
boat business,  and  secure  to  Minnesota  the  numerous  advan- 
tages of  an  old  country  combined  with  those  of  a  new. 

Congress  having  granted  sufficient  land  for  the  construction  of  a 
railroad  from  St.  Paul  to  Lake  Superior,  the  following  results  will 
immediately  follow :  it  will  be  universally  conceded  that  St.  Paul 
must  become  the  great  commercial  city  of  the  northwest  for  all 
time  to  come.  The  country  on  the  cast  side  of  the  Mississippi 
river  will  be  very  soon  taken  up  and  occupied.  Property  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river  will  enhance  in  value  far  beyond  the 
most  sanguine  expectations  of  its  present  owners.  No  attempts 
will  now  be  made  to  establish,  on  the  west  side  of  the  .'iver, 
at  Mendota  or  any  other  point,  a  commercial  centre  as  a  rival 
of  St.  Paul. 

Now  take  up  the  map,  and  look  at  future  results.  There 
is  Lake  Superior,  the  shores  of  which  are  more  valuable  in 
copper  and  iron  than  any  other  portion  of  the  globe;    and  will 


1 


FACILITIES   FOtt   TliAVEL. 


183 


ississippi 
y  on  the 
^ond  the 
attempts 
he  .'iver, 
3  a  rival 


Boon  contain  a  dense  population  of  persons  engaged  in  mines 
and  nicidental  pursuits,  all  of  whom  will  be  consumers  of  the 
products  of  agriculture  and  manufactures.  Here,  then,  is  an- 
other California,  with  California  customers.  The  soil  near  the 
ake  IS  inferior,  but  farther  to  the  south  and  west  are  the  fer- 
tile  lands  of  Minnesota,  destined  to  become  the  most  valuable 
grain-growing  region  of  the  United  States.  The  experiments 
inace  already  in  the  cultivation  of  wheat  in  Minnesota  fully  i^' 
justify  this  opinion.  ^  ^ 

Look  at  the  map,  and  you  will  reo  that  the  mineral  of  Lake 
?5uperior  may  be  transported  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  via  the , 
proposed  road  and  the  Mississippi  river,  cheaper  than  by  any 
other  route.  The  removal  of  the  obstructions  at  the  rapids 
will  obviate  every  difficulty.  The  proposed  road  will  there- 
fore gi^atly  increase  the  demand  for  steamboat  transportation, 
not  only  m  carrying  down  the  mineral  of  the  lake,  but  also  in 
Lnnging  back  the  products  of  the  south  which  constitute  a 
part  ot  northern  consumption. 

The  proposed  road  will  open  a  new  route  to  the  east,  via 
Lakes  Superior  and  Huron,  and  by  railroad  thence  to  Toronto: 
theirce  across  Lake  Ontario,  and  by  railroad  to  Boston,  ^^^ 
lork  and  Philadelphia,  where  our  future  merchants  will  be 
sure  to  purchase  nearly  all  their  goods,  xcept  perhaps  grocer- 
ies. I  he  same  route  will  provide  our  future  farmers  with  easy 
access  to  the  eastern  Atlantic  markets.  "^ 

One  of  the  future  resources  of  Lake  Superior  will  be  its  im- 
mense  and  inexhaustible  fisheries,  the  most  valuable,  all  t  li2 
con-aered,  in  the  world.     This  branch  of  industi.;  wi     Tm 
ploy,  at  some  future  day,  a  large  amount  of  capital,  and  a  nu- 
merous popu  ation,  dependent  upon  some  other'egi  n  for  m  ^t 
of  their  agricultural  supplies.     It  will  also  furnish  a   Ce 
amount  of  business  for  the  proposed  road  and  steamb  atrfi 
the  river.     Construct  this  road,  and  all  the  fish,  copper   and 
u-on,  of  Lake  Superior,  consumed  in  the  Mississippi  vTlW    nd 
transported  beyond  the  gulf  via  the  southera  po  ts,  Satu 
ra.^  and  o    business  necessity  be  reshipped  at'st.  pIuI        " 
Construct  the  proposed  road,  and  St.  Paul  will  be  an  impor- 
tant pomt,  and,  with  St.  Anthony's  fill-    n  f^-      .,        "j°^ 

-tintuuij^  a  laiiD,  a  lavonce  resting- 


184  MINNESOTA   AND  ITS   RESOXTRCES. 

place  for  the  thousands  who  in  pursuit  of  pleasure  or  business  will 
hereafter  make  the  grand  tour  of  North  America. 

The  magnificent  enterprise  of  the  North  Pacific  IlAn.ROAD 
has  been  already  mooted.  Under  the  able  and  vigorous  manage- 
ment of  Governor  Stevens,  the  survey  was  successfully  performed 
in  the  spring,  summer,  and  fall  of  1853. 

The  general  plan  was  to  operate  from  St.  Paul,  the  starting-point, 
toward  the  great  bend  of  the  Missouri  river,  and  thence  on  the 
table-land  between  the  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  and  Saskatcha- 
wan,  to  some  eligible  pass  in  the  llocky  mountains.  The  route 
connected  favorably  with  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  Red  river  of 
the  North,  Missouri,  and  Columbia,  the  most  important  navigable 
streams  of  the  United  States. 

The  expedition  started  upon  the  great  work,  provided  with  every- 
thing essential  to  its  success.  The  result  haa  been  of  incalculable 
value  to  this  country,  and  opened  up  a  new  and  brilliant  era  for 
Minnesota. 

One  of  the  first  objects  we  accomplished  was  the  opening  of  an 
immigrant  route  from  St.  Paul  to  the  north  Pacific,  which  was  done 
in  185-1:.  In  proof  of  the  great  difference  in  the  distance  on  the 
routes  now  travelled,  I  submit  the  following  table  of  distances : ' 

From  Galena  to  St.  Louis 500  miles. 

From  St.  Louis  to  St.  Joseph 900     " 

From  St.  Joseph  to  South  Pass 800     " 

2200     " 

From  Galena  to  St.  Paul 320  miles. 

From  St.  Paul  to  Fort  Ridgley 100     " 

From  Fort  Ridgley  to  Missouri  River 300     '* 

From  Missouri  River  to  South  Pass 380     " 

1100     " 

Making  a  difference  of  one-half,  or  1100  miles  between  Galena  and 
the  South  Pass. 

The  tide  of  immigration  on  the  Pacific  is  flowing  northward  to 
the  neighborhood  of  Puget's  Sound,  a  fine  country,  abounding  in 
great  natural  resources.  The  capital  of  the  new  territory  of  Wash- 
ington, Olympia,  will  no  doubt  b-^  located  in  that  vicinity,  on  a  site 
which  will  become  a  commercial  city  of  the  first  rank. 

The  distance  from  St.  Paul  to  Puget's  Sound  is  only  about 
fourteen   hundred   miles,  and  a  direct  route  would   pass  over  a 


FACILITIES   FOB  TRAVEL. 


185 


rich  country,  affording  an  abundance  of  pasture  for  stock,  and 
good  water  for  man  and  beast.  No  deserts  intervene,  and 
there  is  no  doubt  but  that  the  best  passes  through  the  Rocky 
mountains  are  to  bo  found  on  this  route.  This  is  the  opinion 
of  scientific  men  engaged  in  the  work  of  survey  ;  and,  relying 
upon  other  sources  of  information,  tlicro  is  sufficient  leason  to 
believe  that  such  is  the  fact. 

It  is  now  the  opinion  of  some  of  the  best-informed  men  of 
the  country,  and  which  is  entertained  by  several  of  the  most 
able  and  influential  United  States  senators,  that  the  Central 
1'acific  Rv)ute,  by.  way  of  the  South  pass,  is  impracticable. 
The  country  through  which  that  route  passes  is  generally  unfit 
for  cultivation  ;  the  altitude  of  the  summit  is  greater,  the  snows 
deeper :  that  route,  in  brief,  is  out  of  the  question.  It  is  be- 
lieved, however,  that  there  is  a  route  farther  south,  through 
Texas  or  New  Mexico,  and  along  the  Gila  to  San  Diego,  or 
through  Walker's  pass  to  some  point  farther  north. 

The  other  route,  upon  which  the  public  mind  is  becoming 
settled  as  the  best  road,  is  that  which  was  explored  by  Major 
Stevens.  It  passes  through  a  better  country  than  any  other 
named,  and  its  eastern  termination  will  strike  the  most  popu- 
lous and  productive  zone  of  the  continent.  That  its  comple- 
tion will  be  witnessed  in  a  few  years  we  have  no  doubt.  As 
the  work  progresses,  population  will  keep  in  its  advance,  open- 
ing farms,  building  towns  and  villages,  thus  uniting  the  Atlan- 
tic and  Pacific  by  one  continuous  chain  of  civilization.  St.  Paul 
being  at  the  junction  of  the  road  and  the  navigable  head-waters 
of  the  Mississippi,  must  become  a  great  central  eutrep6t  of  trade 
and  travel,  and  soon  grow  up  into  a  commercial  city  of  the 
first  class. 

The  route  having  been  found  extremely  favorable,  measures 
should  be  taken  at  the  next  session  of  Congress  to  provide 
protection  by  next  season  for  emigrants  who  may  desire  to 
take  that  road  to  the  Pacific.  A  cordon  of  military  posts  will 
be  necessary  to  keep  the  Blackfeet  Indians  in  check.  This 
road  (marked  out  by  the  exploring  party,  and  protection  ex- 
tended to  emigrants)  will  at  once  become  the  great  route  to 
the  Pacific.     In  the  spring  and  early  summer,  our  levee,  from 


m 


H]';ii 


rffi 


R9 


186 


UlNNIiSOTA    AND    I'lB   KE80UUUK8. 


the  lower  to  the  upper  Jan.linff.  would  bo  lined  with  Etcnmboatg, 
mid  the  town  tilled  with  voya^^eiUH  juid  their  cllects. 

The  progress  of  St.  I'aiil,  thus  far,  is  without  parallel  in  the 
infant  growth  of  western  towns ;  hut,  in  view  of  the  reasonable 
pro8p(.ctH,  Its  growth  for  t:.c  next  few  years  will  be  far  in.)re 
renmrkublo,nnd  with  this  progre.ss  the  whole  territory  will  ad- 
vance with  e(|ually  vapid  strides. 

1  regard  this  racilic  railroad  project  as  the  great  enterprise 
«>t  the  age,  in  comparison  with  which  all  others,  however  im- 
])ortant  in  a  local  point  of  view,  sink  into  absolute  insignifi- 
cance. The  day  which  will  witness  the  junction  of  the  Atlan- 
tic  and  Pacitic  coasts,  by  means  of  a  perfect  railroad  comma- 
nication,  will  be  remembered  as  one  on  which  the  bomis  of 
tuuon  between  the  extremes  of  our  country  were  riveted  for  ai 
time  to  come,  and  the  commerce  of  the  world  secured  to  our 
own  citizens. 

From  the  knowledge  wo  have,  imp3rfcct  as  it  is,  of  the  to- 
pography of  the  region  to  bo  traversed,  wo  arc  justified  in  the 
conclusion  that  the  northern  route  is  far  more  favorable  for 
railroad  purposes  than  those  hitherto  proposed.  The  cele- 
brated Kit  Carson,  in  a  lately-published  letter,  denies  the  prac 
licabihty  of  any  other  of  the  southern  routes  than  that  through 
Walker's  pass ;  and  we  know  that  even  that  is  liable  to  objec- 
tion, because  of  its  winding  and  circuitous  character,  which 
will  necessarily  increase  the  length  and  the  expense  of  railroad 
construction  to  an  iudefinito  extent. 

It  is  stated  that  Major  Ogdcn,  a  chief  factor  of  the  Hudson's 
13ay  Company,  long  resident  on  the  Pacific  slope,  and  whoso 
occupation  required  him  to  become  acquainted  with  the  nature 
ol  the  country  between  Puget's  sound  and  the  Cascade  mount- 
ains, asserts  that  it  is  eminently  favorable  for  the  construction 
of  a  railroad.     Old  trappers,  who  have  many  times  traversed 
It,  corroborate  his  impressions     The  passage  of  the  Cascade 
and  llocky  ranges  will  constitute  the  great  obstacles  to  be 
overcome ;  but  as  the  depression  of  these  mountains  is  much 
greater  in  the  high  latitudes  of  forty-six  and  forty-seven  de- 
grees,  it  is  reasonable  to  conclude  that  the  passes  arc  con-e- 
£*pondingly  more  practicable  than  those  farther  south.     Little 


FaOILITIIB  rOK  tkavei,. 


187 


..known  „f  ,|,„  eoun-T-  hctw.on  tl,«,o  rmgo,;  hH  ll,o  vnlley 
of  tho  north  fork  of  tl'o  Cohuuhia  exlcn.l,  thronRh  !t,  „„d  w^ 
prolmhiy  „no,.a  „  lino  for  «  ™ilw„y  Bhould  all  others  prcaen 
m,ur,n„,„„„bIo  d.rtia.Uic.  I  know  that  fro.a  th„  Laso  of  tl^ 
Itocky  rao,,nta,n«,  o„,thi»  Me.  to  the  Missis,!,,,,!,  few  obstrtic 
.on,  w,ll  he  mot  with,  as  a  co„ti„„„,„  „„a  fiV  ,ho  niost  part 
level  r,-anie  „  to  l,o  foin.d  between  mose  points  ' 

ri.e  railroad  acroS,  our  territory  to  I'ngefs  sound,  and  that 
f  om  our  northern  bo„nda,y  to  tho  gulf  of  Mexico,  onee  com 

o  ti""'"       :  '•■"',"•  """^  '"'  '"^'"^"^  "'  »'""<'  T'^^'!™" 
0    t,me-what  bounds  can  be  conceived  to  the  prospciitv  of 

M,nnc.sota  ?     Tho  ve,y  fact  th,.  t  ,ucl.  measure,  fro  'ro2ed 
n«a  w,  1  sooner  or  later  oo  peri,  eted,  must  have  a  direct  en 
dency  to  increase  imn,ig,ation  t,  our  territory.     We  have  a 
fine  clnnato,  a  soil  rich  in  mineral  and  agricuU,n-al  resomces 
..nd  a  ,,rofu„on  of  good  wood  and  pure  water.     The  «Jo2 
are  needed  to  p,.o,t  by  a  proper  use  of  these  advantagcland 
to  add  by   hen-  .ndusL-y  and  enterprise  to  the  general  wealt 
We  are  da.ly  receiving  additions  to  our  number, ,  and  when  t" 
;s  known  that  Mi.u.esota  is  to  bo  made  the  great  thorougLe 

nice  of    he  Union,  we  n.ay  set  it  down  a,  a  fixcl  fact  that 
.mm.g.-at.o„  will  „ow  in  like  a  flood,  and  our  fertile  lie 
.nd  woodlands  teem  with  the  life  and  energy  of  a  numerou 
but  not  redundant  population.  ""u'erous 

AN  ACT  OEANTINa  AN  EXTENSION   OF  TIME  TO   THE   MINNESOTA 

bcreby  are.  severally  extended  a,  folio™, VatH  to  '4         "  """' 


188 


MINNESOTA  AND  ITS  RESOURCES, 


III 


The  said  telegraph  shall  be  completed  and  put  in  complete  opera- 
tion on  or  before  the  17th  day  of  November,  1858,  or  in  case  th'* 
said  Ilailroad  from  St.  Paul  to  the  Iowa  lin^  shall  be  located,  and 
the  timber  be  cut  out  of  the  line  of  said  Road,  before  that  day, 
then,  in  that  case,  said  telegraph  shall  be  constructed  and  put  in 
operation  within  sixty  days  after  such  timber  shall  have  been  cut 
out.     Fifty  miles  of  said  road,  running  from  St.  Paul  northwardly, 
shall  be  fully  completed  on  or  before  the  17th  day  of  February, 
1860;  and  the  remainder  of  said  Road  shall  be  fully  completed  and 
put  in  operation  on  or  before  the  17th  day  of  February,  1803  j 
Provided,  however,  that  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  said  Company  to 
locate  and  construct  the  said  Road  in  conformity  with  the  Act  of 
Congress,  entitled  "  An  Act  to  aid  the  Territory  of  Minnesota  in 
the  constr  iction  of  a  Railroad  therein,"  approved  on  the  29th  of 
June,  1854,  and,  Provided,  also  that  this  extension  of  time  to  the 
said  Minnesota  and  Northwestern  Railroad  Company,  and  all  their 
rights,  franchises  and  privileges  under  their  charter  shall  be  null 
and  void,  and  the  Governor  of  said  Territory  shall,  by  proclamation, 
to  be  published  in  some  newspapers  in  St.  Paul  and  in  the  city  of 
New  York,  so  declare  as  notice  to  all  concerned,  upon  the  failure 
of  said  Company  to  comply  with  the  following  condition,  which  is 
that  said  Minnesota  and  Northwestern  Railroad  Company,  shall,  on 
or  before  the  fourth  day  of  July,  1856,  notify  the  Governor  of  this 
Territory  in  writing,  to  be  signed  by  the  President  and  Secretary, 
or  the  Acting  President  and  Acting  Secretary  of  said  Company,  that 
they  have,  and  do  accept  fully,  the  provisions  of  this  act  as  a  part 
of  their  original   charter,  as  approved   by  the  Governor  of  this 
Territory  on  the  fourth  day  of  March,  1854,  and  with  a  certificate 
that  the  said  acceptance  is  in  obedience  to  directions  previously 
given  by  the  Board  of  Directors. 

Sec.  2.  In  consideration  of  the  grant  of  lands  contemplated  in 
the  8th  secticn  of  the  charter  to  said  Company,  approved  March 
4th  1854,  and  of  the  extension  of  time  to  said  Company  as  herein 
stated,  and  in  farther  consideration  of  the  restoration  of  all  rights, 
powers  and  franchises  to  said  Company,  which  may  be  supposed  to 
have,  for  any  cause,  become  forfeited  to  the  Territory  of  Minne- 
sota, said  corporation  binds  and  obliges  itself  to  pay,  or  cause  to  be 
paid  to  the  Territory  or  future  State  of  Minnesota,  two  per  cent, 
upon  each  dollar  of  the  gross  receipts,  proceeds  and  income  of  said 
Railroad,  so  far  as  the  same  may  be  received  or  due  them  on  that 


FACILITIES   FOR   TRAVEL. 


189 


I 


part  of  said  Koad  lying  within  the  limits  of  the  Territory  or  future 
State  of  Minnesota,  to  be  paid  to  ti  e  Treasurer  of  said  Territory 
or  future  State  annually,  on  the  first  day  of  January  in  each  year, 
from  and  after  the  day  when  the  cars  shall  commence  running  on 
any  part  of  said  Road  in  said  Territory  or  future  State  of  Minne- 
sota, and  which  proceeds  shall  be  appropriated  to  the  payment  of 
the  Territorial  or  State  government  expenses;  and  such  payments 
shall  be  in  lieu  of,  and  the  said  Company  shall  be  exempt  from,  the 
payment  of  any  other  imposts,  taxes  or  dividends,  any  law  to  the 
contrary  notwithstanding. 

Sec.  4.  Said  Company  shall  construct  and  put  in  operation  a 
branch  thereof  to  a  point  within  one  and  a  quarter  miles  of  the 
eastern  limits  of  the  city  of  Stillwater,  provided,  it  is  consistent 
with  the  act  of  Congress  approved  29th  June,  1854,  granting  land 
to  said  Territory  in  the  construction  of  a  road  therein. 

Sec.  5.  This  act  shall  be  in  force  from  and  after  its  passage. 

Charles  Gardner, 
Speaker  o^  the  House  of  Representatives. 
John  B.  Brisbin, 
President  of  the  Council. 

Approved  March  1st,  1856. 

W.  A.  GORMAN. 

The  charter  of  the  Northwestern  railroad  was  granted  by  the 
legislature  of  Wisconsin,  April  17,  1852,  and  the  Western  Minne- 
sota charter  was  granted  by  the  legislature  of  Minnesota,  March  3, 
1853.  These  roads  are  designed  to  connect  on  the  St.  Croix,  and 
extend  from  Madison,  in  Wisconsin,  by  St.  Paul  and  St.  Anthony, 
to  the  western  boundary  of  the  Territory,  and  ultimately  to  the 
Pacific. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  the  line  of  this  road  will  pass  through 
and  connect  with  the  most  valuable  and  extensive  pine  region  la 
the  northwest.  It  will  also  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  lumbering 
business  is  at  this  time  being  exte^.sively  increased  in  all  the 
lumbering  districts,  preparatory  to  meeting  the  increased  demand 
for  lumber  which  must  follow  the  construction  of  railroads  to  inter- 
sect the  Mississippi. 

The  road  contemplated,  and  which  will  doubtless  be  completed 
at  an  early  day,  from  Galena  through  Iowa,  to  the  Minnesota  valley, 
with  a  branch  to  St.  Paul,  will,  in  connection  with  the  Wisconsin 


190 


MINNESOTA  AND  ITS  RESOURCES. 


Northwestern  road,  open  our  territory  to  the  markets,  either  in 
the  south  or  east,  in  a  manner  to  give  Minnesota  a  decided  business 
advantage 


m 


THE   GREAT  ILLINOIS   CENTRAL,   IOWA   AND   MINNESOTA  NORTH- 

TVESTERN   RAILROAD. 

In  addition  to  what  I  have  already  said  upon  the  all-absorbing 
railroad  topic,  I  wish  to  state  that  a  surveying  party  under  Captaiu 
Gear,  of  Galena,  has,  during  the  past  season,  surveyed  a  route  from 
that  place  to  the  Minnesota  river  at  Mankato  city,  two  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Blue  Earth,  and  report  unanimously  that  the 
route  is  one  of  the  very  best  for  railroad  construction.  They  found 
some  marshy  land  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Blue  Earth,  but  not 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  taking  their  teams  through  without  diffi- 
culty.  The  trip  was  made  in  twenty-seven  days,  though  the  actual 
travelling  time  was  only  twenty. 

The  face  of  the  country  over  which  they  passed  is  an  undulating 
prairie,  and  oak  openings,  with  occasional  heavy  bodies  of  timber 
numerous  lakes  and  small  streams,  with  an  abundance  of  grass' 
game  and  fish.  °   .  ' 


STEAMBOAT  AIID  EIVEB  TRADE,  ETC. 


191 


CHAPTER   XI. 


STEAMBOAT   AND   RIVER   TRADE,    ETC. 


Perhaps  the  an'ival  of  the  first  steamboat  at  Minnesota,  was 
as  important  an  epoch  as  any  event  since  the  discovery  of  that 
river  by  Jonathan  Carver,  or  the  wonderful  advent  of  Henne- 
pin, sixty  years  earlier  at  the  falls  of  St.-  Anthony.  It  is 
difficult  for  US  to  imagine  how  civilization  could  have  breasted 
the  strong  current  of  the  Mississippi,  in  birch  canoes  j  and  it 
is  very  certain,  that  without  the  aid  of  steam,  there  would 
have  been  here  no  territorial  government  of  Minnesota,  no  St. 
Paul,  and  but  few  to  take  an  interest  in  the  history  of  those 
early  times  in  Minnesota. 

The  first  steamboat  that  ever  came  up  the  Mississippi  river 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota  river,  was  a  stem-wheel  boat 
named  the  Virginia,  in  May,  1823.  It  was  a  day  long  to  be 
remembered.  The  Dakotas  were  then  in  full  possession  of 
both  sides  of  the  river.  The  Indians  say  they  had  dreamed 
the  night  before,  of  seeing  some  monster  of  the  deep,  which 
frightened  them  very  much.  As  the  boat  approched  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  they  stood,  in  multitudes  upon  the  shore,  men, 
squaws,  and  papooses,  gaping  with  astonishment  to  see  the 
huge  monster  advancing  against  the  current.  They  really 
thought  it  some  enormous  water-god,  coughing  and  spouting 
water  in  every  direction,  and  puffing  out  his  hot  breath.  The^ 
peasants  of  Europe  would  not  be  worse  frightened,  if  Mount 
Etna  should  get  upon  legs,  and  travel  across  the  continent, 
belching  forth  fire  and  lava.  The  women  and  children  fled 
for  the  woods,  their  hair  streaming  in  the  wind,  while  some  of 
tiic  Warnoj'a,  retreating  to  a  more  rcspcetiul  distance,  stood 
their  ground  until  the  boat  passed  and  landed.     The  boat 


192 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   EKSOURCES. 


'I 


\      I 


V 


being  one  of  tliosy  .awful  high-pressure  boats,  which  blow  off 
steam  witli  a  noise  like  unbottling  an  earthquake,  when  she 
"  blew  out"  shook  with  terror  the  knees  of  tlie  stoutest  braves; 
and  in  a  twinkling,  every  red  skin  had  vanished  in  the  woods, 
screaming  and  shouting  with  all  their  might. 

On  the  17th  of  September,  1819,  Col.  Leavenworth,  with 
some  troops,  first  came  up,  and  established  a  cantonment  near 
Gamelle's,  at  the  ferry  on  the  v/cst  side  of  the  Minnesota  river. 
He  next  removed  his  quarters  to  camp  Coldwater,  a  little  way 
up  tlie  Mississippi,  at  the  place  where  the  two-story  stone  hotel 
now  stands  upon  the  prairie.  In  the  winter  of  1820  and 
1821,  soldiers  were  sent  up  to  Rum  river  to  get  out  pine 
lumber  to  build  Fort  Snelling.  In  the  meantime,  square  timber 
was  hewn,  of  hard  wood,  along  up  the  shore  and  on  the  islands 
of  the  Mississippi,  to  make  two  block-houses,  for  immediate 
use,  at  the  present  site  of  the  fort,  which  were  so  far  completed 
as  to  be  occupied  by  the  troops  in  the  winter  of  1822  and 
1823 ;  after  which  the  work  of  building  the  garrison  was 
crowded  on  with  much  vigor.  The  labor  of  the  building  was 
done,  nearly  or  quite  all,  by  the  soldiers.  The  fort,  however, 
when  completed,  cost  about  ninety  thousand  dollars. 

The  following  summary  shows  the  least  height  of  the  ther- 
mometer, with  the  coldest  days  during  the  past  seven  years, 
together  with  the  closing  of  the  navigation,  the  first  arrival  in 
the  spring,  and  the  total  number  of  arrivals  yearly  :  — 

In  '  S44,  there  were  forty-one  arrivals.  Navigation  closed 
November  24th.  In  1845,  forty-eight  arrivals.  The  Minne- 
sota and  Mississippi  closed  November  24th  and  26th.  The 
coldest  day  of  1845-^6,  was  February  26th.  Thermometer 
eigiiteen  degrees  below  zero.  In  1846,  there  were  but  twenty- 
four  arrivals.  The  decrease  was  caused  by  low  water.  The 
rivers  closed  November  26th.  The  Minnesota  opened  again 
Uecomber  1st,  and  closed  finally  December  3d.  Coldest  day 
of  the  winter,  January  27th  ;  thermometer  twenty-seven  de- 
grees below  zero.  In  1847,  there  were  forty-seven  arrivals. 
The  Minnesota  closed  November  24th,  and  the  Mississippi  the 
29th.  ColdeRt  day  of  the  winter,  January  9th  ;  twenty-eight 
degrees  below  zero.     In   1848,  sixtv-three  arrivals.     Rivers 


blKAMBOAT   AND    KIVKK   TIIADK,    ETC.  V,)'6 

closed  November  8th.  The  Minnesota  opened  a-ain,  hut 
closed  in  a  few  days.  Coldest  day  of  the  winter,  February 
18th;  thirty-seven  degrees  below  zero.  In  1849,  eighty-five 
arrivals.  Rivers  closed  December  6th  and  8th.  Coldest  dnv 
December  30th;  thirty-one  degrees  below  zero.  In  1850* 
one  hundred  and  four  arrivals.  Rivers  closed  December  3d' 
C.ddcst  day,  January  30th,  1851 ;  thermometer  thirty-two  and 
a  half  degrees  below  zero.  In  1851.  one-  hundred  and  nine- 
teen arrivals.  The  Mississippi  closed  November  28th.  In 
1852,  one  hundred  and  seventy-one  arrivals.  The  Mississippi 
closed  November  18th. 

The  last  boat  arrival  of  1851  was  the  Nominee ;  she  left  on 
the  20th  of  November.  The  Inst  boat  arrival  of  1852  was  the 
Black  Hawk,  Captain  Lodwiek ;  she  left  on  the  eve  of  10th 
November. 

The  periods  of  the  first  arrivals  in  the  spring  are  as  follows 
viz. : — 

1844,  April  6th,  Otter,  Captain  Hams  ;    1845,  April  Isl 
Otter,  Captain  Harris;  1846,   March    31st,  Lynx,  Atchison' 
1847,  April  17th,  Cora,  Throckmorton;  1848,  April  7th,  Sen- 
ator, HaiTin;   1849,  April  10th,  Dr.  Franklin  No.  2,  Harris  • 
Highland  Mary  No.  2,  Atchison,  and  Senator,  Smith,  arrive.! 
same  day.     1850,  April  19th,  Highland  Mary  No.  2,  Atchison, 
and  Nominee,  Smith,  arrived  same  day,  crowded  with  passen- 
gers.    1851,  April  4th,  steamboat   Nominee,  Captain  Smith, 
arrived  at  six  A.  M.,  with  one  hundred  passengers.     She  left 
Galena  March  31st,  and  arrived  at   Stillwater  April  3d  ;  was 
much  retarded  by  high  winds,  &c.     1852,  April  16th,  Nominee 
Captain  Smith,  and  Excelsior,  arrived  the  same  day.     185'}' 
April  11th,  West  Newton,  Captain  D.  S.  Harris.     The  Missis- 
sippi was  clear  of  ice  this  year,  at   St.  Paul,  on  the  1st  .>f 
April.     The  steamboat  Greek  Slave,  which  wintered  here  for 
the  first  time,  started  upon  the  4t]i  of  April  for  the  Minnesota 
nver.      She   returned   upon    the   9th,   with   one  wheel-houso 
carried  off  from  contact  with  the  trees.     She  went  up  as  far 
as  Mankato  city,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Blue-Earth  river.     On 
tae  lOtn.  she  started  down  to  force  a  passage  through  Lake 

9 


I*! 


194  MINNESOTA    AND   ITS   KE80UKCKS- 

Pepin,  met  the  West  Newton  cominj^  through,  and  returned  iu 
company  with  her  on  the  11th. 

Average  closing  of  tlic  navigation,  November  26th.  The 
average  spring  arrivals  of  the  above  is  tli*  8th  of  April.  On 
an  average,  llie  boats  cease  running  two  weeks  before  the  close 
of  navigation  here,  and  are  detained  below  Lake  Pepin  the 
same  time  in  the  spring  after  the  river  opens  at  St.  Paul;  the 
navigation  being  interrupted  from  the  15th  of  November  to 
the  8th  of  April  —  less  than  five  months  in  all. 

Above  and  below  the  lake,  the  river  is  only  closed  on  an 
av>  "age  of  less  than  four  months  in  the  year,  viz.,  from  26th 
November  to  25th  March. 

The  Mississippi  closes  unlike  most  streams.  Its  current 
being  swift,  the  ice  docs  not  stay  fixed  for  many  days  after 
the  river  is  nearly  covered  with  it.  But  the  ice  keeps  pressing 
along,  and,  if  the  weather  does  not  relax,  the  ice  becomes 
more  thickly  set  over  the  stream  iu  patches  ;  then  the  patches 
huddle  and  crowd,  and  climb  and- dive,  till  the  hour  of  sealing 
their  destiny  fixes  them  for  four  and  a  half  months  in  statu. 
So  the  river  is  left  rough  -w  ith  tin  protruding  edges  of  the 
Hakes  which  were  suddenly  arrested  in  their  rampant  career. 

CARRYING   TRADE. 

The  merchandise  for  northwest  Wisconsin  and  for  Minnesota,  is 
principally  purchased  in  Galena,  Dubuque  and  St.  Louis. 

During  the  season  of  1855,  the  number  of  steamboats  engaged 
in  transporting  hither  passengers  and  freight,  was  about  fifty-five — 
while  about  seventy  difterent  steamboats  visited  "the  upper 
country."     They  have  carrried —  • 

Up  river  freight,  tons 45,000 

Down  river  freight,  tons 10,000 

Average  price  per  ton,  up  river,  $14 $030,000 

Average  price  per  ton,  down  river,  §7 70,000 

Number  of  passengers  up  and  down 60,000 

Average  price,  $(j 360,000 

Total  for  freight  and  passengers,  1855 $1,060,000 

Total  for  freight  and  passengers,  1854 095,000 

Increase 365,000 

Computing  at  an  increase  of  25  per  cent.,  this 

trade,  in  1858,  will  amount  to $3,320,000 


^a--^ 


STEAMBOAT  AND   HIVEK  TRADE,    ETC..  J 95 

The  construction  of  the  8t.  Croix  and  Lake  Superior  R.,iIroad 
will  produce  an  important  chan-e  in  the  direction  of  the  trade  and 
connncrce  of  all  that  large  section  of  country  lying  north  and  west 
ot  La  Crosse,  on  the  Mississippi  river  — including  northern  Iowa 
Minnesota,  and  northwestern  Wisconsin.  By  an  examination  of 
the  map,  it  will  be  seen  that  this  road  will  connect  the  navigation 
of  the  great  lakes  and  the  river  St.  Lawrence  with  the  Mississippi; 
and  through  the  upper  Mississippi  with  the  several  lines  of  rail! 
road  running  from  it  south  and  cast;  forming  the  last  connecting 
link  in  a  vast  chain  of  communication,  that  comprehends  and  inter- 
sects the  entire  portion  of  the  Union,  cast  of  the  Mississippi 

It  will  be  also  seen  that  Superior  occupies  a  position  geographi- 
cally  similar  and  important,  with  respect  to  the  extent  of  country 
It  commands  and  the  means  of  communication  it  possess^,  to  that 
occupied  by  Chicago.     While  the  latter  has  become  the  point  of 
transhipment  and  centre  of  trade,  of  an  extensive  range  of  country 
and  suddenly  became  a  large  and  important  city,  it  is  not  unreason- 
able to  expect  that  the  rapid  settlement  and  development  of  tho 
resources  of  the  country  of  which  the  latter  is  the  centre— a  country 
(perhaps,  even  greater  in  extent  than  Chicago  commands,)  rich! 
varied,  and  immense  in  its  resources-will  build  up  and  sustain,  at 
feuperior,  a  city  that  will  rival  in  size  and  importance,  if  not  ia 
trade,  the  city  of  Chicago. 

In  the  transportation  of  freight,  no  means  have  been  devised  that 
atlord  advantages  over  our  Lake  navigation,  without  which  already 
the  '<  Great  West"  would  hardly  have  been  torn  from  the  savage,  and 
the  development  of  its  resources  scarcely  have  been  attempted 

Upon  any  ordinary  highways,  the  distance  to  which  any  article 
of  produce  will  pay  its  transportation,  is  limited  to  a  few  milc5  — 
depending  upon  the  kind  of  freight  and  the  character  of  the  road 
The  average  cost  of  transportation,  over  common  roads,  may  be 
taken  at  fifteen  cents  per  ton,  per  mile.  Estimating  the  value  of 
wheat  in  market  at  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  bushel,  and  corn 
at  seventy-five  cents-  and  thirty-threfe  bushels  of  each  at  one  ton 
in  weight— the  former  would  pay  its  transportation  330  miles,  and 
the  latter  165  miles :  and  at  these  respective  distances  from  market 
any  surplus  of  these  articles  would  be  without  value  to  the  pro- 

duccr.     But,  on  railroads,  frfiio-bt  mnv  ho  trop.^^^r*^''  -*■  -%t--  ^r->iU 

'  !  — o— ■■  ~"j  "•■  '■•"■!«.-£,>vrn;u.  at  ont;-i,cntn, 

the  cost  of  transportation  on  common  roads,  and  in  the  cases  sup- 
posed,  railroads  would  extend  the  limit  of  transportation  for  wheat 


( "Si 


}j*-4 


196 


: 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS   RESOURCES. 


to  3800,  and  for  corn  to  1();>0  miles.     But  th 


ti 


cost  of  trnnsporta- 


on  on  the  L.-ilccs  may  bo  taken  at  ot.o-third  tho  cost  of  the 


by  railroad,  incn  a 


saino 


'iri^'  said  limit  to  O'JOO  miles  for  wheat,  4950 


..le.s  tor  con,  f  this  cstin.ato  bo  correct,  the  j^^reat  importance  to 
the  ngr.oultural  d.stncts  of  the  northwest,  of  direct  and  economical 
co>nn.urncat.on  wuh  the  great  Lakes,  is  evident.  Tl)e  same  princi- 
ples are  applicable  to  the  pine  and  mineral  districts  :  the  lumbermen 
need  nutans  to  transport  their  supplies  and  their  lumber;  and 
hough  the  nunerswill  ship  their  p-. ducts  directly  by  the  Lake, 
they,  c,,ually  with  the  lumbermen,  look  to  the  valley  of  the  Missis! 
•s.ppi  fur  supplies.  This  road  will  furnish  to  a  large  exfent  of 
country  such  necessary  communication;  and  while  it  gives  value 
to  ts  products,  It  wdl  proportionally  lessen  the  cost  of  n.erchandiso 
and  articles  needed  and  purchased  by  the  inhabitants 

The  completiou  of  the  ship  canal  at  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie  has 
connected  the  navigation  of  Lake  Superior  with  that  of  the  I'owor 
lakes,  and  by  this  route  freights  from  New  York  city  to  Superior  are 
an  avernge  price  of  eigiit  dollars  per  ton.  By  this  route  the  di., 
tance  from  Detroit  to  Superior  is  only  eighty  miles  greater  than  the 
distance  by  water  from  Detroit  to  Chicago,  a  difference  in  dist.nc-o 
which  will  not  make  in  favor  of  Chicago,  a  difference  in  time  of 
more  than  eight  hours.  But  freight  and  passengers  at  Superior 
are  nearer  Hudson  and  St.  Paul  by  forty-nine  miles,  than  if  a 

rivei  freight  at  fourteen  dollars  per  ton;  add  to  this  the  price  per 
ton  from  Chicago  to  Galena,  five  dollars,  and  we  have  nineteen 
dollars  per  ton  for  freight  from  Chicago,  via.  Galena,  to  Hudson 
and  St.  1  aul.     Now  if  we  add  to  this  seven  dollars  and  fifty  cents 
for  freight,  per  ton,  from  New  York  to  Chicago,  by  water,  we  have 
in  round  numbers  twenty  six  dollars  per  ton,  on  freight,  from  New 
York  to  St.  Paul  and  Hudson,  via  Chicago  and  Galena 
^  By  water,  freight  may  be  carried  from  New  York  to  Superior  for 
eight  dollars  per  ton,  and  from  Superior  to  Hudson  and  St.  Paul  by 
railroad,  for  five  dollars,  making  fourteen  dollars  per  ton  from  New 
York  to  Hudson  and  St.  Paul,  via  Superior;  being  about  one-half 
of  the  cost  by  the  other  route,  a  saving  of  one  transhipment,  and  a 
saving  n  time  of  from  four  to  five  days. 

With  these  facts  before  us,  this  country  being  settled  with  ^reat 
rapidity  and  its  vast  resources  already  being  successfully  developed, 
we  can  hardly  entertain  a  doubt  of  the  success  and  profitableness 


BTEAMHOaT   and   UlVKll   TUADK,    KTC.  I97 

of  both   the  Saint  Croix,  Lake  Superior  and  Minnesota,  and  tho 
Northwestern  Itailroads. 

This  subject  is  capable  of  much  additional  araplidcation,  and 
many  .nterost.ng  and  important  facts,  tending  to  the  same  conclusion, 
might  bo  added;  and  it  might  not  be  altogether  idle  to  discuss  tho 
question,  as  to  how  far  below  St.  Paul  and  Hudson  the  valley  of 
the  Mississippi  would  receive  its  merchandise  from  New  York  via 
Supenor.  Yet  I  will  venture  the  assertion,  that  when  this  road 
sh.l  ],e  in  operation,  many  of  us  will  be  surprised  at  what  the  event 
will  prove. 

It  seems  impossible  that  Congress  can  overlook    tho   immense 
national  importance  of  making  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi 
unobstructed  from  St.  Paul  down  to  tho  Gulf  of  Mexico.     Why  is 
lit    (an  It  be  because  the  States  down  the  river  are  so  ravenous  for 
grants  of  public  land,  that  the  government  is  unwilling  to  give  us 
an  appropriation  of  money  for  the  rapids,  in  addition  to  grants  of 
land  to  the  States,  for  fear  of  doing  too  much  for  the  West  ?     The 
West  wants  cheap  communication  more  than  lands;  and  tho  main 
artery  more  than  little  rivers.     If  we  had  a  railroad  from  St.  Paul 
0  x\cw  Orleans,  we  should  not  rest  quiet  if  it  were  obstructed  at 
Hock  Island  and  Keokuk;  but  having  a  river,  which  is  better,  with 
only  two  obstructions  in  it,  which  might  be  removed  for  less  money 
than  the  cost  of  a  week's  idle  debate  in  Congress,  we  sleep  over  it, 
and  let  Congress  sleep  over  it,  for  a  quarter  of  a  century,  and  con' 
tinue  to  let  our  little  steamboats  crawl,  and  scratch,  and  scrabble 
over  the  rocky  bottom  of  the  river  every  year,  carrying  but  a  little 
goods  at  a  time,  and  that  in  lighters.     Make  the  navigation  of  this 
river  what  it  ought  to  be,  and  our  boats  would  double  in  size  and 
capacity;  insurances  and  freights,  and  the  cost  of  pilotage,  would 
soon  fall  one  half.     In  every  foot   of  lumber  we    raft,  in    every 
bushel_  of  gram  we  ship,  in  every  cup  of  coffee  we  drink,  we  are 
taxed,  in  consequence  of  the  want  of  cheap  navigation  on  this  river. 
2lic  whole  west,  from  Pembina  to  the  Gulf  of  Mxico,  ought  to 
l>'jht  down  upon  Congress,  and  sting  that  stitpid  hody,  lesiege  it, 
harass, f,  beleaguer  it,  into  immediate  compliance  with  the  demand 
of  half  a  continent. 


I 


196 


MINNKSOTA    AND    118    KKSi^L'RCKS. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

TIIK      INDIAN     TRIBES SIOUX,     CIUPPKWAS,     AND    WINNliUAOOKS. 

*     *     *     "  Arts  almll  every  wild  explore, 
Trace  every  wave,  and  culture  every  shore." 

In  Campbell's  poem-  "  The  Pleasures  of  Hope,"  we  find 
this  striking  and  very  true  prophecy;  and,  in  Minnesota, 
before  ten  years  shall  have  passed  away,  it  will  be  well 
verified. 

A  treaty  with  the  Sioux  Indians  has  been  consummated,  and 
that  their  stay  on  the  ceded  land  will  be  short,  no  one  can 
doubt.  A  new  home  will  then  present  scenes  which  will  pen- 
etrate the  heart  of  every  family ;  while  the  pale  faces,  who 
occupy  their  new  territory,  will  experience  alike  the  usual 
pleasure  and  privation  of  frontier  life. 

The  change  which  is  soon  to  take  place,  reminds  one  of  tho 
"■'.d  reality  and  fatality  which  have  befallen  all  the  tribes  of 

dians  in  North  America  which  have  come  in  contact  with 
the  whites,  and  were  of  necessity  compelled  to  sell  their  Lmds. 
Indeed  there  is  no  uncivilized  shore  on  the  face  of  the  globe 
where  the  white  man  has  trodden,  but  his  controlling  influence 
has  been  felt  by  the  people  who  inhabited  it.  What,  then, 
does  the  history  of  the  past  present  of  the  Sioux  1  What, 
then,  Avill  the  annals  of  the  future  reveal,  of  their  wandering 
from  region  to  region,  of  their  poverty,  of  their  vices  and  their 
degradation  —  outcasts  and  exiles  from  the  home  of  their 
childhood? 

About  thirty  years  ago  tlie  Sacs  and  Foxes  resided  east  of 
the  Mississippi  river,  and  their  number  was  probably  twice  or 


i    I 


i'lK  iNiuAN  iiimm. 


199 


Faill,  rn,™d  l,or  ,lt„r,  ,„  ,|„  (jod  ,h.  lovoj." 
nente  wJ  cli  ti.ey  I,a,l  g„„,e,,   ;„  ^^^^f         ^ 

tl,Pwl,i.„  „       '"fcSMiatiicic.    Agn.ii,  aftcrafcwbiinfyonis 

Ti    lev  hTv    «'■' n'  "l     T'  "'""  ""'^'■"™  ''»™  '-""vcl, 
■    Zv!f    *"."'"y.*°""'J  "  I'«me-if  such  it  can  be  called 

other  tribpR  wl.,-.!.  r   -i  ^   ",^S^^^S  to   the  Assinibonis  and 


' 

J 

i^HMQ 

i 

J 

Mr 

■rr 

':] 

Bi 

r 

1 

Ai'dS' 


200 


MINN1«0'JA   AND  rVH   lilCSOUUC'I-M. 


;  H'.M   ^vorn    onon.npo.l    fopotl.or   on    tl.o    plains  I,.st  Hnrnmcr. 
j  l.oso   han.lH.  nItl.<M.,^h  tU.y  „,o  for  fhn  .nost  part  claHscd  in 
Mncn  1  tl.v.MonH.  arc  roally  in.lopn.l.nt  of  oad,   other.     I„ 
lact.  tho   .n.l.vuluals  cotaposing  racl.  I.nn.l   arc   nearly  indo- 
I-Hl.«nt  of  each  other.     Thoro   is   really  no  govern:nent.  no 
jleleKnte.l  power  or  constifntional  trust  a.nonj,^  them.     If  thev 
l.avo  any  ^'overnment,  it  may  bo  called  democratic.     A  chief 
except  HO  far  as  he  Heo.nes  influence  in  the  trii.e  hy  personal 
n'>"l.tM>s  MM  ependent  of  his  oflice,  can  do  nothin,^     a\  matter 
y»  '-•'".  anther  than  of  fact,  the  hands  constituting,  oach  .livin. 
"-  veco,n,se   the   chief  of   sonu.  one  of  the  hands  as  their 
head-ch.et  .n  council.     With  slight  diirerence  of  dialect,  the 
^u.nx  a  I  speak   the  san.e  lan^uaKe.     Tluir  hahits,  custon.s, 
H upo  st.t.ons.  are  substantially  (ho  sa.ne.     Son.e  .lilference  in 
the  fash.on  of  conddnn;  M.e  hair,  and  in  the  style  of  dress  is 
ohservcd  m  ditlurent  bands.     Our  inforu.ation  of  the  western 
bands  IS  con.paralively  little.     For  convenience.  I  will  com- 
nience  wuh  a  notice  of  the  .Sioux  who  inhabit  the  southeastern 
cxt    m.  y  0    t   cir  territory,  an.l  follow  with  a  notice,  in  order, 
o      he  bands  that  are  found  in  our  process  up  the  west  bank 
of  the  ]\  .ss..s,pp,,  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota,  and  thence 
M-es  ward,  nntil  we  reach  the  wild  Tetons.  who  occupy  the 
western  or  annexation  end.  and  extending  indefinitely  toward 
llie  I'acific  ocean. 

The  first  division  is  that  of  the  Medawakantwan.  or  Spirit 
Lake  Sioux  in  the  southeast.  This  division  comprises  seven 
bands  or  villages  which  contain  an  aggregate  of  about  twenty- 
two  hundred  souls.  They  sold  their  lands  east  of  tl-c  Missis- 
Mpp..  in  lbJ7.  by  treaty  at  Wasliington.  They  receive  ten 
housnnd  dollars  annually,  and  five  thousand  dollars  r. ore  to 
be  paid  them  by  the  direction  of  the  president  of  the  United 
States  (who  has  never  yet  directed).  Also  for  a  period  of 
twenty  years  after  the  date  of  the  treaty,  tliey  receive  twenty 
thousand  dollars  annually  in  goods,  and  five  thousand  dollaia 
more  in  provisions. 

TIjo  j>;.inds  constituting  this  division. are  :— 

1.  Wabashf.w  band  —  oln'of  w«K.,t,i,^.,.  ^.i      •       , 
„     ,      ,    ,.  ^  •    ,        ■'  '''^^'^"feJ^'i.v,  Tvho  is  also  nomi- 
nally head^chief  of  the  division.     Population  three  hundred. 


THK    JMUAN     IKlill-S. 


2U1 


^^^  ^^  K.l.Win,  ha.ul-cl.iei;  Waukoo...     |..,„..,ui....,  tI..eo 

.'I.   K«i)o.sin  |„u,(I  (juHt  below  St.  Paul)— clucf  I  IfUn  P 
l'..p..latio„.  four  hundred.  '  '  ^^'"'"-<^'-<>^- 

i..,n;i'::u„a';';;;:"  """•'-'■"'•'■  *'-"-'-'^""'-  ^■■•i""-"-.  '- 

^^;;.;^^o....-uo,.,.»  „„„,,_„,„„,  o„„j.n„„,,.    ,,,„„,„,„„, 

^^7.  ^Six',  l,„,„l_cl.iof,  Shnk.,,,00.     l>„,„,i„„,  f„„,  ,„„„,,,„, 

tl.  ,,,,,, IH, v,,,g„ntl,„w„.er»,,f tl,olIi„„eH„„.,.iver,,owit:- 

■II),  at  I„(  1„  U,n|,„l,,_cl,ior,  l>I,„nrto„c,  wi,„  i,  „„,„i„„||, 
iHMcl-dncI  aim  of  tljin  ,livi«ion.  "onnuail, 

.".I;.,  above  'i'r„vcr«c  d..»  Si.,„x,  „.,  tl,e  Minnesota   Wo  C 

3.  Hig-.S,„„o  Lako  band,  fifty  ,„ilt,,  northwest  of  Lnc-nni- 
1  r^,  nmnbenng  „„„  l,„n,Ircd  and  fifty.  ri,e,o  havo'no 
cl„el  bcn.g  a  InancI,  of  tl.o  Lacini-Pario  band.'  Their  Lr 
.nan  ,.,  calle,   The  End.     They  are  very  shiftier,.  '' 

i  he  next  d.vtsion  U  (hat  of  the  Sissetons,  composed  of  three 
Land,     ^ohead-ehief  is  acknowledged  by  this  division, 
and  fiftv      TT^    r,^'"""  ''"'"'■  "»'"I"='"'S  three  hundred 

^:t^:!':!:^t    <"- '» »" ""'-'™-  --.  who  ■. 

fTlns^'"l'^'-''\f"'"'"""^'"''"'""''"S  "'™»  I'linaredand  fifty 
There  are  other  fractional  hands  of  the  Sissetons    also. 

r::;'"  tI;;:;:  ?  '"^  ^r^"''''-  ""■■""'™'^  -i-t «';» il .: 

'"^'i-      Ilioy    nrc   about  forty   milo.K  west   of  I-.m.n-p    i 
^ed-'J^h.n„l,n.      '['] : .    .,1.''^  J^.'c-qui-Iarl, 


clnef.  Hea-Thu)i(] 


{".v. 


T] 


IC     "•( 


nil  of  the  Five  Lodg 


i-x  arle  ; 
es  was  a 


(     -L 


i".]: 


»:! 


202 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    RKSOlltCES. 


i^ 


family  of  murderers,  it  is  said,  wlio  wandered  awav  from  tl)o 
Sissetons  many  years  n'^o,  with  the  hand  of  Cain,  and  consti- 
tuted a  little  Nauvoo  of  their  own,  where  rogues  from  other 
bands  fouud  refuge.  They  now  number  one  hundred  lodges; 
and  have  more  vigor  and  more  energy,  if  less  docility  and 
morality,  than  most  other  bands. 

The  nex:t  division  is  that  of  the  Wahpekootays.  number- 
ing  about  three  hundred;  chief,  lled-Legs.  These  people 
inhabit  the  lino  region  between  the  head-waters  of  the  Blue 
Earth  and  Des  Moines  rivers.     They  constitute  but  one  band. 

The  next  division  is  that  of  the  Yanktons  of  the  Minne- 
sota valley. 

j         1.  The  Cut-ITend  band,  numbering  two  hundred  and  fifty 

chief,  Waunahtaw,  also  head-chief  of  this  division. 

2.  Teople-of-the-poles  band  — chief,  uncertain.  Number,  one 
h-mdred. 

3.  The  band-who-do-not-eat-buffalo-cows.  Number,  one  hun- 
dred. 

The  n.^xt  division  is  the  Tetons;  chief  and  population  un- 
known.    Their  bands  are — 

1.  The  Ogolawla. 

2.  The  Sioune  ;  and  probably  some  others. 

The  next  division  is  that  of  the  Yanktons  of  the  Missouri, 
of  whose  chiefs  and  numbers  I  have  no  reliable  information. 
These   are  the  Sioux,  who  are  called  by  Lewis  and  Olark 
"The  Big  Devils." 

The  Rev.  S.  R.  Riggs,  a  missionary  long  resident  among  the 
Dakotas,  advocates  strongly  the  "  community  system"  among 
these  Indians,  and  bases  his  ideas  upon  many  important  facts; 
and  it  is  conceded  the  reverend  gentleman  is  in  the  main  cor- 
rect. Indians  have  no  regard  for  the  laws  of  mei/?n  and  tuum, 
and  the  only  way  to  teach  them  this  requisite  is  by  a  "  com- 
munity system,"  making  the  head  of  each  family  independent 
of  the  chiefs.  The  reverend  gentleman,  in  an  article  published 
in  the  Pioneer,  illustrates  as  follows: — 

"Among  people  pursuing  the  hunter's  life  it  is  not  strange 
that  the  principle  of  common  property,  to  a  cerlain  extent, 
should  be  developed.     In  hunting  the"  deer  and  buffalo  it  is 


I 


ponorally  found  m^st  advant 
Tl 


THE   INDIAN   TillBES.  203 

geous  on  the  whole  to  go  in  com- 


im.ucK  1  his  IS  especially  true  of  the  latter.  The  tafan/ca  of 
the  p:  uries  go  in  large  herds  and  are  soon  driven  off',  if  chased 
constantly  and  without  system.  Hence  the  necessity,  in  the 
hutlah,  hunt,  of  the  'soldiers^  lodged  which  is  an  organization 
lor  regulating  the  time  and  manner  of  surrounding  them.  Sev- 
rral  years  ago,  when  buffalo  were  plenty  in  this  region,  the 
writer  spent  many  sahhaths  at  the  Wahj>etmwan  encampment 
on  the  Fomme  de  tare,  and  several  times  preached  in  the  sol- 
(iiers'  lodge.  A  {'(,w  extracts  from  memoranda  made  at  that  " 
tune,  will  convey  some  idea  of  the  department  of  the  interior 
lu  a  Dakota  camp, 

"In  their  language,  the  soldiers'  lodge  is  called  tinotipi. 
Ihis  U;/of>jn  is  their  legislative  and  judicial  hall.  Xo  one 
goes  to  kill  buflalo  except  when  a  chase  is  determined  on  hy 
the  soldiers  in  this  lodge.  If  any  one  should  dare  to  do  so 
and  thus  dri^•e  away  the  buffalo,  the  soldiers  would  break  his 
gun,  cut  u])  his  blanket,  &c.  — diat  is,  according  to  their  Ian- 
guage,  '  soldiers  kill'  him. 

"  The  tent  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  in  the  encampment. 
Dry  grass  is  spread  around  in  the  inside.     The  fire  is  the  mid- 
dle.    Beyond  the  fire  are  two  bunches  of  grass  wrapped  around 
and  fastened  to  the  ground  by  means  of  pins.     On  these  two 
bunches  of  grass  lie  two  pipe-stems,  one  blue,  the  common 
praine  color,  and  the  other  red,  which  is  used  only  on  special 
occasions.     By  the  side  of  them  is  a  pipe  with  an  ordinary 
stem,  which  IS  commonly  used.     A  little  tobacco-board,  and 
two  or  three  sHcks  to  clean  the  pipe  with,  form  the  comple- 
ment of  the  smoking  apparatus.     Still  beyond  the  pipe-stems 
he  two  bundles  of  sticks,  one  of  which  is  black,  the  other  red 
There  are  the  soldiers,  the  evidences  of  their  membership  and 
the  emblems  of  their  authority.     When  the  tiyotipi  was  organ- 
ized red  sucks  were  given  to  all  such  as  had  participate;:!  in 
killing  enemies,  and  Mack  ones  to  the  younger  men  aid  boys. 
A  the  first  meeting  each  one  brought  his  stick ;  and  these  were 
collected  and  bound  up  in  the  two  bundles.     When  the  tiyotipi 
I.  f-olved,    hesc  sticks,  they  say,  will  be  tied  to  a  tree-top. 
i^our  of  the  real  soldiers,  or  those  represented  by  the  red 


1 S. 


ijii 


I  I 


204 


MINNESOTA    AND    Ms    I! 


I'^^'U'fKMilS. 


1 


Rticks,  are  chosen  ns  principal  men  in  tlie  lodr^o,  ulmse  place 
is  immediately  opposite  the  door,  'i'he  si.le,  to  the  ri-ht  of 
the  jndges,  is  appropriated  to  chief  soldiers,  whiU>  the^left  is 
occni)ied  by  young  men.  A  n/anjm/u,,  or  crier,  and  cook,  are 
appointed,  whose  duty  it  is  to  be  ever  present  in  th.-  lodge. 
All  orders  issue  from  the  H>jo/ij,i.  The  proclamations  were 
made  at  this  encampment  by  a  man  nearly  blind,  who  has 
since  been  killed  by  tl,e  Chippewas.  In  the  morning  he  stood 
out  and  publicly  announced  the  name  of  a  young  man  who 
was  s-mt  out  to  ascertain  where  the  hnffalo  were.  On  his  re- 
turn he  spoke  to  no  man  by  the  way,  but  proceeded  to  the  sol- 
diers'lodge,  and  after  smoking  Avith  the  red  pipe  stem,  whis- 
pered his  message  in  the  ear  of  the  (njavpaha,  who  made  proc- 
lamation of  the  same. 

"  AVhen  meat  is  plenty  in  the  camp,  there  is  no  lack  of  It  at 
tlic  soldiers'  lodge,  although  it  is  entirely  dependent  f..r  its 
supplies  on  the  free-will  offerings  of  the  women.  But,  then, 
every  woman  who  brings  a  piece  of  meat  has  her  name  and 
the  fact  proclaimed  throughout  the  camp.  When  they  are  out 
of  wood  at  the  tiyufqn,  the  crier  stands  out  and  makes  known 
the  fact,  and  every  hoy  takes  up  an  armful  from  his  mother's 
wood-pile  and  hies  away  with  it  to  the  soldiers'  lodge. 

"  When  animals  are  hunted  in  this  way,  all  engaged  have  of 
right  some  claim  on  what  is  killed.  The  laws  regulating  the 
distribution  in  these  cases  are  set  forth  in  the  following  extracts 
from  a  letter  written  some  time  since  by  WamndiohJya  ••— 

"  In  the  buifalo-hunt,  whoever  kills  one  takes  home  the  skin, 
half  the  breast,  a  hind-quarter,  the  ribs  of  one  side,  the  tongue, 
the  paunch  and  the  fat  thereof  These  are  his  porth.n.  lie 
who  comes  up  second  takes  half  the  breast,  the  ril)s  of  one 
side,  one  hind-quar^cr,  and  the  large  entrails.  These  are  his 
portion.  The  third  who  comes  takes  the  head,  the  back-bone. 
the  rump,  both  arms,  and  the  small  entrails.  These  are  his 
jiortion. 

"  When  one  kills  a  deer,  he  takes  home  tlie  skin,  the  rump, 
ami  both  the  hiiul-quarlers.  These  are  his  portion.  He  who 
comes  up  next  takes  one  side,  one  arm,  the  neck,  head,  u.nl 
paunch.     Tliese  are  his  portion.     The  third   takes  rne  arm, 


I 


i 


Tine    IX^DIAJM    TltlBKS. 


205 


inpe  place 

ii;;lit  of 

tlie  left  1*8 

cook,  are 

iic  lodge. 

0118  were 

wlio  lias 

lio  stood 

IIIJUI  Avlio 

11   Ill's  re- 

0  tlio  sol- 
:>ni,  wliis- 
ade  j[n<)c- 

<  of  it  at 
it  for  its 
>iit,  tlioii, 
aino  ami 
)'  are  out 
!S  known 
mother'8 

have  of 

1  ting  the 
extracts 
I  :—- 
the  skin, 

•■  tongue, 
on.  lie 
I  of  one 
}  are  his 
:;k-bone. 
are  his 

e  rump, 
He  who 
i«T.d,  uiid 
iie  arm, 


i 


one  side,  the  hack-bone,  the  lights,  and  entrails.     These  are 
his  portion. 

"  When  one  shoots  a  bear,  he  takes  the  skin,  the  heart,  and 
the  entrails.  These  arc  his  portion.  The  man  who  conios  up 
next  after  him  takes  the  rump  and  both  the  hind-legs.  These 
are  his  portion.  The  next  one  that  comes  takes  one  arm,  one 
side,  and  the  fat  of  one  kidney.  These  are  his  portion.  ^Vho- 
ever  comos  next  takes  one  arm,  and  one  kidney  with  the  fat 
thereof.  If  there  arc  many  people,  the  remainder  is  divided 
into  many  portions." 

These  are  the  laws  of  division  in  the  chase  among  the  Dako 
tas.  So  well  understood  are  they,  that  wc  seldom  hear  of  difli 
culties  occurring  among  the  claimants.  ]Jut  the  common-prop- 
erty system  does  not  stop  here.  When  a  man  has  brought 
home  his  portion  of  meat,  it  immediately  passes  into  the  bauds 
of  his  wife,  or  other  principal  female  of  the  family.  Sometimes 
it  is  all  consecrated  to  making  a  feast.  But  if  this  is  not  the 
case,  and  all  the  families  in  the  encampment  are  not  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  be  supplied,  the  neighbor-women  gather  in,  "be- 
seeching and  besieging"  for  a  portion.  And  so  it  often  hap- 
pens that  the  skilful  and  industrious  hunter  and  his  family  eat 
less  of  Avhat  he  brings  houie  than  his  more  indolent  neighbors. 
The  skin,  however,  is  his,  to  use  or  sell.  But,  on  the  whole,  it 
must  be  acknowledged  that  the  community  system,  ro  far  as 
we  have  regarded  it,  solely  in  connection  with  hunting,  although 
less  productive  of  injurious  results  here  than  elsewhere,  does 
still  encourage  idleness  rathef  than  industry.  In  the  hunter's 
life  it  may  be  pleaded  as  a  necessity,  but  this  plea  can  not  be 
made  for  it  in  other  circumstances. 

A  Dakota  boy  is  taught  to  shoot  birds  and  squirrels,  and 
whatever  living  animal  crosses  his  pathway.  They  are  com- 
mon stock;  they  have  no  owners,  and  each  one  kills  what  he 
can.  In  this  v/ay  he  grows  up  with  very  loose  ideas  of  the 
rights  of  proper  y.  If  his  uncle  or  his  brother  has  two  horses, 
and  does  not  yield  to  his  wishes  in  giving  him  one,  it  is  no 
more  difficult  to  shoot  or  stab  the  horse  than  to  kill  any  other 
animal.  The  feeling  that  a  man  has  a  right  to  Avhatcvev  ho 
sees,  and  can  lay  his  hands  on,  grows,  in  too  many  instances, 


n,!J'' 


206 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    UI-:S()ri;CI>. 


with  an  Tnclian's  growth.     And  this  feeling  is  one  of  the  out- 
lines of  the  common-property  system. 

All  Indians  are  excessively  fond  of  their  own  amusements, 
and  I  append  a  description  of  a  "  round  dance,"  at  Traverse 
des  Sioux,  during  the  treaty  of  1851 : — 

"  The  commission,  and  in  fact  our  whole  camp,  was  present, 
and  perhaps  ore  thousand  Indians  of  the  various  bands.  The 
theatre  of  this  religious  dance  was  a  circular  enclosure  made 
up  of  the  limbs  of  the  aspen  stuck  in  the  ground,  interwoven 
with  four  arched  gateways,  one  toward  each  point  of  the  com- 
pass, making  an  area  about  the  size  of  a  large  circus. 

"A  pole  Avas  planted  in  the  middle  of  the  area,  with  an  im- 
age cut  out  of  bark,  designed  to  represent  the  '  thunder-bird,' 
suspended  by  a  string  from  its  top.  At  each  of  the  four  arched 
gateways  stood  another  pole  and  image  of  the  same  descrip- 
tion, but  smaller  than  the  one  in  the  centre.  Near  the  foot  of 
the  central  pole  was  a  little  arbor  of  aspen-bushes,  in  which 
sat  an>ugly-looking  Indian,  with  his  face  blackened,  and  a  wig 
of  green  grass  on  his  head,  Avho  acted  as  sorcerer,  and  uttered 
incantations  and  prophecies  with  fervent  unction,  and  beat  the 
drum,  and  played  on  the  Indian  flute,  and  sang,  by  turns,  to 
regulate  the  various  evolutions  of  the  dance. 

"  Before  this  arbor,  at  the  foot  of  the  central  pole,  were  va- 
rious mystical  emblems :  the  image  of  a  running  buffalo,  cut 
out  of  bark,  with  his  legs  stuck  in  the  ground  ;  also  a  pipe  and 
a  red  stone  shaped  something  like  a  head,  with  some  colored 
shavings,  moss,  or  other  material,  on  the  cranium,  to  represent 
hair.     This  red  stone  is  said  to  represent  the  spirit  of  evil,  to  be 
appeased.     At  a  signal  given  by  the  sorcerer,  the  young  men 
sprang  in  through  the  gateways,  and  commenced  a  circular 
dance,  in  procession,  around  the  sorcerer,  who  continued  to 
sing  and  to  beat  his  drum  ;  and  occasionally  changed  the  order 
of  dancing,  or  afforded  the  dancers  a  respite  by  blowing  upon 
his  flute.     The   dancing  is  the  same   sort  of  double-hop,  or 
shaker-step,  which  we  see  in  their  medicine  and  scalp  dances. 
After  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  of  violent  exercise,  the  dancers 
ran  out  of  the  ring,  returning  after  a  short  respite. 
"  In   the  third  set,  a  few  horsemen,  i 


,^ery  gay, 


tastio 


THE   INDIAN    IKIBES. 


207 


costume,  accompanied  the  procession  of  dancers  witliiri  the  area, 
by  riding  around  outside  of  the  enclosure.     In  the  fourth  and 
last  set,  a  multitude  of  boys  and  girls  joined  the  band  of  dan- 
cers in  the  area,  and  many  more  horsemen  joined  the  caval- 
cade that  rode  swift  and  more  swiftly  around  the  area,  some 
dressed  in  blue-embroidered  blankets,  others  in  white;   and 
every  horseman,  as  he  skilfully  and  swiftly  rode,  a  subject  for 
the  painter,  the  music  quickening  and  the  excited  performers 
flying  like  a  whirlpool  of  fantastic  men  and  horses— an  exhi- 
bition  so  rare  and  strange,  that  in  New  York  a  "  Welch".would 
make  a  fortune  out  of  it  in  a  month,  as  an  equestrian  show, 
feuddenly,  at  the  end  of  the  fourth  act,  several  rifles  were  dis- 
charged at  the  poles  upon  which  the  thunder-birds  were  sus- 
pended, cutting  them  all  instantly  down ;   Avhen  the  curtain 
lell,  and  all  dispersed.     So  ended  the  round  dance  — the  most 
imposing  exhibition,  probably,  that  is  ever  seen  among  the 
Sioux." 

It  would  be  useless  to  try  to  convey  to  the  reader  unaccus- 
tomed to  savage  life,  an  intelligible  idea  of  the  infernal  noises 
and  uncouth  gestures  of  these  red  devils,  when  engaged  in 
any  of  their  dances.  For  a  scalp-dance,  at  nightfall,  they  light 
their  camp-fire,  and  with  naked  bodies  painted,  some  jet  black, 
others  bright  red,  or  buff,  or  striped  in  the  most  fantastic  man- 
ner,  form  a  circle  round  the  fire,  holding  the  scalp  aloft,  sus- 
pended m  a  hoop ;  and  when  they  commence  to  leap  and 
bound,  set  up  the  most  unearthly  yelping,  whooping,  and 
howling  twisting  their  bodies  into  every  conceivable  contor- 
tion !  1  he  squaws,  too,  becoming  excited  even  to  frenzy,  howl 
worse  than  a  pack  of  famished  wolves,  creating  a  pandemonium, ' 
as  seen  from  a  distance  through  the  gloomy  forest  by  the  lurid 
glare  of  the  camp-light,  more  shocking  and  spectre-like  than 
the  worst  scene  described  by  Dante  in  his  "Inferno." 

The  Medaivakantioan  bands  of  Sioux  or  Dakotas  receive 
annuities  under  the  treaty  of  September,  1837,  amounting  to 
on  thousand  dollars  in  money ;  and  besides  this  annuity  money 
t  .ey  receive  every  year  ten  thousand  dollars  in  ^oods.  fivo 
thousand  five  hundred  expended  in  the  purchase  of  provisions 
for  them  ■  and  eight  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  "  in  the 


'nt''' 


'W 


\'i 


J 


m 


?08 


MINiN'ESOTA    AND    US    liKSOl.'KCKS. 


\' 


purcliiisc  of  medicines,  agricultural  implonients,  and  stock,  and 
for  the  support  of  a  physician,  farniers,  and  Idacksniiths,  and 
for  other  beneficial  objects ;"  and  all  these  sums  to  be  expended 
annually  for  twenty  years  irom  the  date  of  the  treaty.  A  stip- 
ulation in  the  first  article  of  this  treaty  provides  that  a  "por- 
tion of  the  interest"  on  the  whole,  sum  invested,  "not  exceed- 
ing one  third,"  being  five  thousand  dollars  annually,  is  "  to  be 
applied  in  such  manner  as  the  president  may  direct,"  has  been 
the  occasion  of  much  evil.  Thus  far,  no  use  has  been  made  of 
the  money,  and  it  has  accumulated  from  year  to  year  until  it 
amounts  to  more  than  fifty  thousand  dollars. 

The  seven  bands  of  the  Medawakantwan  Sioux  —  the  only 
branch  of  the  Dakota  family  with  whom  wo  had  heretofore 
had  formal  treaty  stipulations  —  were  scattered  over  a  broad 
tract  of  country,  extending  from  the  village  of  Shakopee, 
twenty-five  miles  up  the  Minnesota  river,  to  the  village  of  "VVab- 
ashaw,  one  hundred  miles  below  its  mouth,  on  the  Mississippi. 
The  Dakota  or  Sioux  nation  (Dalxota  is  the  name  they  pre- 
fer, and  the  original  one,  Sioux  being  given  them  by  the  French 
traders  long  since)  is  the  most  numerous  perhaps  of  any  Indians 
on  the  continent — numbering,  the  different  tribes  and  bands, 
between  twenty  and  thirty  tl  ousand.  They  are  divided  into 
numerous  bands,  and  have  separate  interests  in  the  lands  they 
claim,  but  are  united  in  a  common  language,  intercourse,  mar- 
riage, &c.,  and  unite  for  common  defence.  At  what  time  they 
came  into  the  possession  of  the  country  can  not,  I  think,  be 
correctly  ascertained.  I  have  conversed  with  some  of  the  most 
aged  among  them,  say  eighty  years  old,  who  were  born  in  the 
vicinity  of  St.  Paul,  and  have  heard  of  no  other  place  as  the 
residence  of  their  fathers.  They  have  been  and  still  are  a 
wai'likc  people,  and  their  wars  with  the  surrounding  tribes 
have  been  numerous  in  former  years,  but  now  confined  princi- 
pally to  the  Chippewas,  which  can  be  dated  back  from  time 
immemorial.  Taking  their  country  as  a  Avhole,  it  is  a  good 
country,  and  a  portion  of  it  not  exceeded  for  farming  purposes 
:n  any  part  of  the  Mississippi  vallo}-.  The  land  is  said  not  to 
be  so  good  as  you  aj>proach  near  the  Slissouri — prairies  are 
large,  with  scarcity  of  timber,  and  too  much  sand.     * 


THE    INDIAN   TKIBl<:a. 


209 


With  regard  to  minerals.  I  can  not  Bay  much.  Tlie  red 
Pipestone  is  found  in  abundance  on  a  stream  tl.at  disclmrges 
Itself  into  the  Missouri.  Many  have  seen  this  beautiful  rock, 
and  some  blocks  of  it  adorn  our  national  monument 

That  part  of  the  nation  that  inhabit  the  plains,  and  over 
toward  the  Missouri,  live  mostly  by  the  chase,  raising  only  a 
small  quantity  of  corn.  Buffalo  and  furs  are  becoming  scaice, 
and  they  will  be  compelled  before  long  to  adopt  some  other 
method  of  subsistence,  or  become  extinct.  That  part  of  the 
n.ition  who  live  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Indian  agency  and  on  the 
upper  Minnesota  river,  have  Indian  farmers  and  annuities,  which 
enable  them  to  subsist  without  depending  entirely  upon  the  fruits 
of  the  chase. 

With  regard  to  civilization  and  Christianitv,  the  Dakotas 
are  behind  many  other  tribes  of  our  northwestern  Indians,  al- 
though they  have  had  considerable  advantages  of  missionaries 
and  schools.  It  can  not  be  said,  I  think,  that  they  are  inferior 
to  other  nations,  or  even  the  white  race,  in  mental  capacity  I 
have  seen  many  children,  and  adults  also,  that,  it  appears  to 
me,  would  be  susceptible  of  the  highest  culture,  and  that  Na- 
ture hf,s  been  profuse  in  her  gifts.  There  appears  to  be  a 
want  of  effort,  or  motive,  to  stimulate  them  to  action.  The 
time  must  come  when  they  will  be  incorporated  with  us  as  a 
people,  living  under  our  laws,  adopting  our  habits,  or  disappear 
before  the  overwhelming  wave  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race. 

The  Chippewas,  or  as  some  write,  the  "  Ojibways"  are  gener- 
ally reported  to  be  the  most  chivalric  of  their  race,  and  are  a 
nation  of  whose  dialects,  mythology,  legends,  and  customs,  we 
have  the  fullest  accounts. 

The  sub-agency  of  this  tribe  was  removed  in  July,  1850, 
from  Lapointe,  in  Wisconsin,  to  Sand-  Lake,  in  Minnesota 
territory. 

The  Chippewa  or  Ojibway  nation  of  Indians,  constitute 
about  eight  thousand,  of  which  near  four  thousand  five  huu- 
di-ed  reside  in  this  territory ;  the  balance  in  Wisconsin  and 
Michigan. 

They  occupy  both  shores  of  Lake  Superior;  and  the  Ojib- 
ways, who  live  beyond  the  Assiniboins  to  the  far  northwest, 


III 


!^i 


1 1' 


m 


210 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   Rl-SOUliCllS. 


and  the  Knistenenux,  or  Krecs,  who  dwell  beyond  them  again, 
are  all  branches  of  the  same  great  people. 

A  recent  writer  correctly  describes  them  :  "  The  Chijipewas 
are  small  in  person" — (This  remark  in  regard  to  their  size  does 
not  apply  exactly  to  the  woods  Chippewas,  west  of  the  Missis- 
sippi)— "  and  of  a  quiet  and  meek  aspect ;  they  have  an  indomi- 
table spirit,  and  a  prowess  that  shrinks  from  no  encounter; 
they  are  the  Poles  of  the  North,  whose  Avont  is  to  stand,  with- 
out regarcl  to  odds,  and  fall  every  man  on  his  track,  rather 
than  fly." 

Mig'-ating  from  the  east  late  in  the  sixteenth  or  early  in  the 
seventeenth  century,  they  first  settled  at  the  falls  of  St.  Mary, 
from  which  point  they  gradually  pressed  westward ;  and 
eventually  compelled  the  Dakota  nation  to  abandon  its  ancient 
seat  around  the  head  waters  of  Mississippi,  whose  rice  lakes 
and  hunting-gi'ounds  the  Chippewas  at  this  day  possess,  and 
beyond  to  the  lied  river  of  the  north. 

In  consideration  of  the  cession  bv  the  two  treaties  of  1837 

t/ 

and  1842,  the  United  States  stipulated  to  pay  them  for  twenty 
and  twenty-five  years,  twenty-two  thouseand  dollars  in  money ; 
twenty-nine  thousand  five  hundi-ed  dollars  in  goods;  five 
thousand  dollars  in  blacksmithing;  one  thousand  two  hundred 
dollars  for  carpenters;  six  thousand  dollars  for  farmers,  and 
an  agricultural  fund ;  four  thousand  five  hundred  dollars  for 
provisions  and  tobacco;  two  thousand  dollars  for  schools;  and 
agreed  to  pay  forty-five  thousand  dollars  to  the  Chippewa 
half-breeds,  and  one  hundred  and  forty-five  thousand  dollars 
in  liquidation  of  their  just  debts.  For  those  made  by  the 
treaty  of  1847,  they  were  pa"d  down  forty-five  thousand  dol- 
lars ;  and  the  Mississippi  portion  of  them  were  allowed  one 
tliousand  dollars  annually,  for  forty-six  years,  to  be  paid  in 
money,  or  to  be  applied  toward  the  support  of  sch"ols,  or  the 
employment  of  blacksmiths  and  laborers ;  and  the  Pillager 
band  certain  stipulated  articles  of  goods,  of  the  value  of  about 
three  thousand  six  hundred  dollars  for  five  years. 

The  entire  Chippewa  tribe  are  divided  into  fifteen  families, 
upon  the  totemic  principle,  to  each  of  which  are  four  sub- 
divisions.    Each  family  has  a  crest  or  symbol  of  some  bird, 


THE    INDIAN   TEIDiS. 


211 


fish,  or  animal,  called,  in  their  nomenclature,  the  totom ;  to 
the  origin  of  each  of  Avhich  some  legend  attaches.  The  system 
is  ancient,  and  dates  as  far  back  as  their  most  unnatural  and 
absurd  traditions  extend.  Though  divided  by  thousands  of 
miles,  and  unconnected  for  generations,  members  of  the  same 
totem  can  not  intermarry  or  cohabit  with  one  another.  The 
totem  descends  in  the  male  lino. 

A  work  upon  the  Chippewas  was  prepared  by  the  late 
W.  W.  Warren,  himself  a  quarter-breed  of  this  nation,  and  is 
now  being  published.  Upon  the  Chippewas,  I  have  thus 
necessarily  been  brief,  and  refer  the  curious  to  lilr.  Warren's 
book  for  further  information.  The  Chippewa  country  lies 
between  the  head  of  Lake  Superior  and  the  lied  river  of  the 
ii,)rth  —  from  latitude  forty-six  to  forty-nine  dep-ces. 

The  Winnebago   Agency  was   located    about    forty  miles   back 
from    the    Mississippi   river,    on    Long   Prairie    river,    about   one 
hundred  and  forty  miles  north  from  St.  Paul.     Long  I'raiiie 
is  about  sixteen  miles  long,  and  on  an  average  one  and  a  half 
miles  wide,  stretching  from  the  northeast  to  the  southeast ;  and 
from  the  high  and  central  location  of  the  agency  buildings 
lying  around  it,  presents  a  highly  picturesque  and  agreeable 
^iew.     This  tribe  numbers  about  two  thousand  five  hundred 
souls.     The  first  recorded  treaty  by  the  United  States  with 
this  tribe  was  made  in  1816.     They  were  again  included  in 
a  treaty  made  at  Prairie  du  Chien  in  1825,  and  at  the  same 
place,  in  the  year  1829,  another  treaty  was  made  with  them, 
by  which  they  received  thirty  thousand  dollars  in  goods,  and 
eighteen  thousand  dollars  annuity  for  thirty  years,  and  three 
thousand  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  fifty  barrels  of  salt  aninially 
for  the  same  period.     And  again  they  treated  in  1832,  with  an 
annuity  of  ten  thousand  dollars  for  twenty-seven  years,  with  a 
stipulation  to  establish  a  boarding-school  for  them  at  Prairie 
du  Chien,  for  the  same  period,  at  an  annual  cost  of  three  thou- 
sand dollars,  and  three  thousand  seven  hundred  dollars  more 
annually,  for  farmers,  blacksmiths,  physicians,  &c.     They  also 
made  a  treaty  at  Washington  in  the  year  1837,  by  which  they 
sold  all  their  lands  east  of  the  Mississippi.     Under  this  latter 
treaty  the  government  paid  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  in 


f. 

sill 


;. ,  ! 


212  MINNESOTA    AND   ITS   KKS0UR0K8. 

liquidntion  of  their  debts;  one,  hmulred  tliouannd  dollars  to 
tlieir  relations  of  mixed  blood;  expended  seven  thousand  dol- 
lars for  their  removal  west ;  pavo  them  fifty  thousand  dolla/s 
in  horses  and  goods,  and  paid  for  provisions,  erecting  a  grist- 
inill,  breaking  and  fencing  ground,  and  incidental  expenses, 
the  sum  of  forty-three  thousand  dollars.  It  was  also  agreed 
to  pay  to  them  annually,  for  twenty-two  years,  ten  thousand 
dollars  in  provisions,  twenty  thousand  dollars  in  goods,  twenty 
thousand  dollars  in  money,  and  five  thousand  dollars  to  be 
devoted  to  education,  agriculture,  &c.  They  made  a  treaty 
at  "Washington  city  in  1846,  by  which  they  agreed  to  remove 
to  the  Upper  Mississippi,  and  which  they  did  in  the  year  1848. 
In  this  last  treaty  they  disposed  of  all  their  interest  or  claim 
in  any  lands  whatever,  on  condition  that  the  United  States 
should  give  to  them  "  a  tract  of  country  north  of  the  Minne- 
sota, and  west  of  the  Mississippi  river,  of  not  less  than  eight 
hundred  thousand  acres,  and  pay  them  one  hundred  and  ninety 
thousand  dollars  for  the  following  purposes,  to  wit : — To  liqui- 
date their  debts,  for  their  removal  and  subsistence,  for  breaking 
up  and  fencing  lands  at  their  new  home;  and  includijig  ten 
thr  rsand  dollars  of  it  for  manual  labor  schools,  and  live  thou- 
sand dollars  for  grist  and  saw  mills.  The  balance,  being 
eighty-five  thousand  dollars,  is  to  remain  in  trust  with  the 
United  States,  at  five  per  cent.,  for  thirty  years ;  and  the  in- 
terest thereon  is  to  be  paid  to  the  tribe  yearly. 

The  Winnebago  schools  are  now  under  the  direction  of 
catholic  missionaries. 

It  is  a  lamentable  fact  that  the  educated  of  this  tribe  are  the 
most  worthless,  which  clearly  shows  that  they  should  first  be 
taught  to  labor  and  acquire  property ;  after  which,  they  will 
see  not  only  the  use  but  the  necessity  of  becoming  educated. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  they  may  yet  become  a  civilized  people. 

They  raised  in  1852  on  Long  Prairie,  the  following  quantities 

of  produce  : — 

Corn 300  neres  12,000  bushels. 

Potatoes 50     "  10.000       " 

Wheat 10     "  300       " 

T»r!iips 50     "  10,000       « 

Oats 40     "  4,000       " 

Garden  vegetables lo     " 


<? 


le  in- 


TIIE   INDIAN   TRIBES.  213 

On  tlio  Mississippi : — 

Po[";;'': ^^  "^res        2000  hushcls. 

^,       .'^'^ 10     "  l()(M)        .. 

^"""1»« 80     -  8000        " 

cli7nn?wTf  '^''Y^'^^'y^r  """^"'''"y  g'-'O^Und  tl,e  Indians 
did  not  want  for  food.  They  have  assisted  in  plou^lnng,  planting., 
and  harvost.ng  Those  who  have  horses  put  up  ha/enou:h'  to  koc^; 
l.cm  through  the  winter  I  find  that  they  are  not  onl^  disposed 
but  anxious  to  work;  and  many  of  them  will  do  as  mueh  work  in 
a  day  as  a  laboring  man  among  the  whites. 

In  August,  1853,  a  council  was  held  between  the  Winnebagoes 
and  Governor  Gorman,  by  which  the  Winnebagoes  exchanged  their 
old  lands  at  Long  Prairie  for  a  tract  on  Crow  River,  with  theSeserva- 
lon  of  the  right  of  way  for  the  Pacific  Railroad.  The  title  of  this 
trow  River  tract  was  extinguished  by  the  Sioux  treaty  of  1851. 
and  his  grant  to  the  Winnebagoes  completely  vested  these  lands  in 
another  Indian  title,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  original  ow.ers  the 
Dakotas.  The  treaty  of  1851  was  made  at  a  large  expen  7^  h 
United  States,  at  the  urgent  solicitations  of  white  settlers,  who 
were  eager  for  the  possession  of  good  farming  lands;  but  und  r  the 
AVinnebago  exchange,  they  were  forbidden  the  Cro;  River  country^ 
entirely,  which  is  among  the  best  for /urmu>i;  purj.oscs.  ^ 

The  people  of  the  whole  Territory  were  loud  in  expressing  their 

XtrhTr^e' ''' '-'''''' ''-'''--'  -'^  -^^^y  -^-^ - 

fh^T^/'  council  was  then  held  and  a  tract  of  land  selected  on 
the  head  waters  of  the  Minnesota  river,  above  the  Blue  Earth  to 

Crow  and%r"  ""°"'  "  '''''  ^'"^  "^^^"^"  *^«  -"^-«  -  'th 
Crow  and  Mississippi  rivers  of  an  intolerable  nuisance  and  inflicting 

an  equally  great  one  on  *      inhabitants  of  the  Southwest  ^ 


i  '  1 

'  Iff 

h! 

t    f^  j  -h 

r       I] '.  f 

[  '"itt; 

=  i: 


p.    -4 


2U 


MINNKSOTA    AND    ITS    i:!;SOLKCJ.ii. 


CUArTKU   XIJI. 

TIIR    SIOUX    TRKATY    OF    1851 COUMII.S,    (•(HjnT8,    KOAUS,    ETC. 

TiiK  lollowiiij,'  iH  tlie  treaty  of  Traverse  des  Sioux,  between ^ 
tlie  United  States  and  tlie  Sef-.s('.c-toan  and  Wah-pa^-toan  band 
of  Sioux  or  Dakota  Indians  : — 

"Articles  of  a  treaty,  made  and  conchided  at  'i'raverse  de8 
Sioux,  upon  tbe  Minnesota  river,  in  tbe  territory  of  :Minncsota, 
on  tbe  twenty-tbird  day  of  July,  eigbteen  bundred  and  fifty- 
one,  between  tbe  United  States  of  America,  by  Luke  Lea,  com- 
missioner of  Indian  affairs,  and  Alexander  llanisey,  governor 
and  cx-njicio  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs  in  said  territory, 
commissioners,  duly  appointed  for  tbat  purj)ose,  and  tbe  Sec- 
seo-toan  and  Wab-pay-toan  bands  of  Dakota  or  Sioux  Indians. 
.  "Article  1.  It  is  stipulated  and  solemnly  agreed  tbat  tbe 
peace  and  friendsbip  now  so  bappily  existing  between  tbe  Uni- 
ted States  ai.d  tbe  aforesaid  bands  of  Indians  sball  be  per- 
petual. 

"Art.  2.  Tbe  said  See-see-toan  and  Wab-pay-toan  bands 
of  Dakota  or  Sioux  Indians  agree  to  cede,  and  do  bereby  cede, 
sell,  and  relinqnisb,  to  tbe  United  States,  all  tbeir  lands  in  tbe 
fitate  of  Iowa;  and  also  all  tbeir  lands  in  tbe  territory  o^  Min- 
nesota, lying  east  of  tbe  following  lines,  to  wit :  Beginning  at 
tbe  junction  of  tbe  Buffalo  river  witb  tbe  Red  river  of  tbe 
Kortb  ;  tbence  along  tbe  western  bank  of  said  lied  river  of  tbe 
Nortb  to  tbe  moutb  of  tbe  Sioux- Wood  river ;  tbence  along  tbe 
■western  bank  of  said  Sioux-Wood  river  to  Lake  Traverse  ; 
tbence  along  tbe  western  sbore  of  said  lake  to  tbe  soutbern  ex- 
treinitv  tbereof ;  tbence  in  a  direct  line  to  tbe  junction  of  Knm^ 
pes-ka  lake  witb  tbe  Tcban-kas-au-data  or  Sioux  river ;  tbence 


i 


THK   SIOUX    TKKATT    OF    1851.  *>|5 

.l.e'u"uod  Sh/'"'"'"  ""''  '""  '""«'''-■"'-"  of  sda  cession. 

O-  -t  „p„,,  for  .l.em  as  above,  which  ^t::^^:'^"' 
two  years,  or  sooner  if  rcoueste,!  hv  .1,„         -f  .  '" 

<l.or  cost  or  expense  to  tZ  U    Id  S    r'an'''      ""'•",  ""■ 
<■'-<'  of  their  snbsisting  themsel ves  tl  e  fi  «!'  '^'  "",""''"»- 

slial   be  paid  to  fl.P  pi.;«i'  •         i        -^'^^"««.   i  Imt  said  sum 

.-on.  r^rpvs        "---  -■■"- 


and  for  such  other  beneficial 


bieakiiio;  land. 


oh 


>jects  as  )i,;,y  he  d 


(!enie 


1  most 


216 


MINNKSOTA    AND   ITS   RESOURCES. 


conducive  to  tlie  prosperity  and  happiness  of  said  Indians, 
thirty  thousand  d<dlars  ($'30,000). 

"'J1ie  bahnnce  of  said  sum  of  one  million,  six  hiandred  and 
sixty-five  thousand  dollars  ($1,6G;3  000),  to  wit,  one  million, 
three  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  dollars  ($1,360,000),  to  re- 
main in  trust  with  the  United  States,  and  five  per  cent,  inter- 
est thereon  to  be  paid  annually  to  said  Indians  for  the  period 
of  fifty  years,  commencing  the  first  day  of  July,  eighteen  hun- 
dred and  fifty -two  (1852),  which  shall  be  in  full  payment  of 
said  balance,  principal  and  interest ;  the  said  payments  to  bo 
applied  under  the  direction  of  the  president,  as  follow^s,  to  wit : 

"  3.  For  a  general  agricultural,  improvement,  and  civiliza- 
tion fund,  the  sum  of  twelve  thousand  dollars  ($12,000). 

"  4.  For  educational  purposes,  the  sum  of  six  thousand  dol- 
lars ($6,000). 

"  5.  For  the  purchase  of  goods  and  provisions,  the  sum  of  ten 
thousand  dollars  ($10,000). 

"  6.  For  money  annuity,  the  sum  of  forty  thousand  dollars 

($40,000). 

"Art.  5.  The  laws  of  the  United  >  tates  prohibiting  the  in- 
troduction and  sale  of  spirituous  liquors  in  the  Indian  country, 
shall  be  in  full  force  and  eflfect  throughout  the  territory  hereby 
added,  aiul  lying  in  Minnesota,  until  otherwise  directed  by 
Congress,  or  the  president  of  the  United  States. 

"Art.  G.  Ilules  and  regulations  to  protect  the  rights  of  per- 
sons and  property  among  the  Indians,  parties  to  this  treaty, 
and  adapted  to  their  condition  and  Avants,  may  be  prescribed 
and  enforced  in  such  manner  as  the  president  or  Congress  of 
the  United  States  from  time  to  time  shall  direct. 

"  In  testimony  whereof,  the  said  commissioners,  Luke  Lea 
and  Alexander  Ramsey,  and  the  undersigned  chiefs  and  head- 
men of  the  aforesaid  See-see-toan  and  Wah-pay-toan  bands 
of  Dakota  or  Sioux  Indians,  have  hereunto  subscribed  their 
names,  and  aflixed  their  seals  in  duplicate,  at  Traverse  des 
Sioux,  territory  of  Minnesota,  this  twenty-third  day  of  July, 
one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty-one. 

"  Signed  by   ""  "L.Lea,  [seal.J 

"Alex.  Ramsey,       [seal.J" 


i 


Indians, 

Irecl  and 
million, 
0),  to  re- 
nt, inter- 
le  period 
een  liun- 
ymeni  of 
nts  to  1)0 
s,  to  wit : 
civiliza- 
10). 
sand  dol- 

Lim  of  ten 

d  dollars 

ig  the  in- 
country, 
y  hereby 
ected  by 

ts  of  per- 
is treaty, 
irescribed 
ngress  of 

liuko  Lea 
md  head- 
an  bands 
bed  their 
verse  des 
of  July, 

SEAL.] 
«5EAL.J" 


THE    8I0UX    TKEATY    OF    1851.  217 

Also  by  the  principal  chiefs  and  headmen  of  the  Sce-see- 
toan  and  Wah-pay-toan  bands. 

"  Signed  in  the  presence  of  Thomas  Foster,  secretary ;  Na- 
thaniel M'Lean,  Indian  agent." 

The  treaty  with  the  lower  bands  of  Sioux  was  signed  at 
Mendota.  Little  Crow,  who  writes  his  own  name,  led  off. 
These  Indians  receive  for  their  lands  an  amount  somewhat 
less  than  was  paid  for  the  lands  of  the  upper  bands.  They 
will  receive,  after  removal,  two  hundred  and  twenty  thousand 
dollars  to  settle  their  obligations,  remove  and  subsist  them  ; 
and  after  that,  cash  annuities  of  thirty  thousand  dollars  per 
annum,  or  three  fourths  as  much  as  was  stipulated  in  the  treaty 
with  the  upper  bands;  and  the  same  ratio,  three  fourths,  as 
much  of  annuities  that  are  not  cash  annuities,  for  fifty  years. 

There  will  have  been  paid  out  in  all,  at  the  expiration  of 
the  fifty  years,  a  little  less  than  three  millions  of  dollars  for 
the  entire  purchase.  The  Indians  were  paid  in  cash  thirty 
thousand  dollars,  being  part  of  the  funds  unpaid  to  them,  and 
remaining  due,  as  arrearages,  by  the  terms  of  their  treaty  of 
1837.  ^ 

All  the  annuities  guarantied  in  both  treaties  that  have  been 
made  will  be  «idded  together  and  paid  out  per  capita  to  all  of 
them  together.     These  are  the  figures  (nearly)  :— 

The  lower  bands  receive  in  all $1  044  010 

Of  whicli  there  is  to  be  paid  down  at  their  remo-     ' 

val  (within  one  year  after  the  ratification) 220  000 

The  remaining  $824,010  will  be  put  at  5  per  cent, 
uiterest  for  fifty  years— the  principal  then  to  re- 
vert to  the  United  States ;  this  interest  will  yield 
to  them  annuities  as  follows,  for  fifty  years- 
^I^^'J;  •;;•••/•• 80,ooo 

Civihzation  fund  .    12  000 

Goods  and  clothing i'."."  l.'.'  ."i  .'.'.*.*.' ."        lo.'oOO 

^''^^''"'^ MOO 

Whole  payment  to  lower  bands |1  044  010 

upper  bands ;;".  iloes.'ooo 

Total  purchase-money $2,709,010 

To  the  people  of  Minnesota  the  most  interesting  political 
event  that  has  occurred  since  the  organization  of  the  territory 

10  ^ 


''U 


\t 


\     i'' 


I- 


218 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    RESOURCES. 


18  the  extinction,  by  tbo  treaties  of  Traverse  des  Sioux  and 
Mendotu,  of  the  Siuux  title  to  immense  tracts  of  land  upon  the 
western  side  of  the  Mississippi.  These  treaties  bridge  over 
the  wide  cliasm  which  could  alone  obstruct  the  advance  of 
Minnesota  to  the  lofty  destiny  evidently  reserved  for  her 

By  the  two  former  treaties,  the  Dakota  Indians  relinquish 
to  the  government  their  right  of  usufruct  to  all  the  country  pre- 
viously claimed,  by  them  east  of  the  Sioux-Wood  and  Bi^- 
bioux  nvers,  extending  over  four  degrees  of  latitude  and  five 
ot  longitude,  and  covering  a  superficial  extent  of  forty-five 
thousand  square  miles.  This  vast  district  Nature  has  marked 
out  for  exalted  destinies. 

EDUCATION   IN    MINNESOTA. 

Congress   acting  upon  the  principle  that  it  is  far  better  to  aid  in 
making  good  citizens  than  to  be  compelled  to  restrain  bad  ones   has 
p.  I  led  most  liberally  for  the  cause  of  education  in  the  new  tcrri 
tones.     Minnesota,  thanks  to  the  generosity  of  the  parent  rrovern 
nicnt,  possesses  the  basis  of  a  magnificent  school  fund ;  one    wo 

sjir-;  r  u^r^'  ^"  ^"^"^ '  ''''-'^  ^--^^^^  ^^-  ^^  -^ 

By  the  organic  act  oncsixtecnih  of  all  lands  in  Minnesota  was 
reserved,  to  be  applied  to  schools  in  this  Territory  and  flZrl 
St.^es  or  Territories,  to  be  formed  out  of  it.  OflL  surveys  o 
public  ands  in  Mmnesota  during  the  year  Ls.5,  239,930  acres  were 
school  lands.  Much  of  the  school  land,  in  different  farts  of  the 
Territory,  has  already  become  very  valuable 

While  Congress  has  been  liberal  in  fostering  the  cause  of  educa- 
t>on  m  Minnesota,  the  people  of  the  Territory  have  not  beenTd 
They  have,  even  amidst  the  absorbing  cares  and  struggles  of  frontier 
life,  established  schools,  secured  teachers,  and  taken'the  initiatory 
steps  towards  the  formation  of  institutions  where  the  higher  branches 
of  knowledge  may  be  taught.  ^       wi^ncues 

Previous  to  1850  the  schools  in  tnis  Territory  were  mostly  con 
nected  with  the  Missions  established  among  the  Indians,  but  since' 
that  period  they  have  spread  over  all  portions  of  Minne  ota  settled 
by  the  whites.  The  first  Mission  school  was  at  Sandy  Lake  in  l^o^ 
taught  by  Mr.  F.  Ayer,  followed  bv  Mr.  E.  V  EUr  tV^  T 
winter  of  1883,  Uey.  W.  T  Boutwell  taught'at  L^achlX^and 


I 


EDUCATION. 


219 


has 


the  next  year  the  Mission  was  opened,  which  continued  till  1836. 
In  1834,  Mr.  Ely  commenced  a  school  at  Fond  du  Lac,  which  con- 
tinued till  the  spring  of  18C9.     From  1836  to  1846,  there  was  a 
Mission  school  at  Pokagoma  taught  by  Mr.  Ayer,  Mrs.  Seymour 
and  Mr.  Ely.    In  1835  also,  Mrs.  Sarah  Pond  commenced  a  school 
at  Lac  qui  Parle,  and  in  December,  of  that  year.  Rev.  Mr.  William- 
son  commenced  teaching  in  the  Dakota  language.    In  1836,  Mr.  S. 
W.  Pond  commenced  teaching  at  Lake  Harriet,  near  Fort  Snelling! 
In  1837,  Rev.  David  King  opened  a  school  at  Kaposia,  but  it  was 
broken  up,  and  in  1839,  a  boarding-school  was  started  there,  of 
which   Mr.  Amos   Jones  was  teacher.     Mrs.  Martha  Boardman 
was  afterwards  associated  with  him.     In  the  following  year  there 
was  a  school  at  Red  Rock.     About  this  time,  Mrs.  Persis  Denton 
taught  at  Red  Wing,  and  in  1842,  Mrs.  L.  C.  Gaine  taught  at  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Croix.     In  the  latter  year,  a  Mission  school  was 
opened  at  Red  Lake  by  Rev.  Mr.  Ayers,  also  schools  were  estab- 
lished at  Cass  Lake,  and  Litile  Winnepeg,  by  Messrs.  Barnard  and 
Spencer.     Miss  J.  S.  Williamson  commenced  in  1846-47,  an  Eng- 
lish and  Dakota  school  at  Kaposia.     In  1849,  Miss  Greenleaf  com- 
menced a  school  at  Stillwater;  J.  H.  Craig,  at  Point  Douglas,  in 
1850 ;  and  Miss  Backus,  in  1849,  at  St.  Anthony.     (Other  notices 
of  Schools,  from  1847  to  the  present  time,  will  be  found  in  the 
Chapters  on  St.  Paul  and  St.  Anthony).     The  Press,  the  Church, 
and  the  School,  are  co-eval  with  the  existence  of  these  cities,  and 
have  contributed  greatly  to  their  prosperity  and  growth. 

In  Red  Wing,  Goodhue  county,  a  collegiate  institution,  under  the 
patronage  and  direction  of  the  M.  E.  Church,  is  in  successful  opera- 
tion.  To  the  liberality  of  Bishop  Ilamline,  this  institution  is 
indebted  for  a  large  donation. 

In  Winona,  the  people  are  moving  for  the  establishment  of  an 
institution  in  which  the  higher  branches  will  be  taught. 
^  In  all  parts  of  the  Territory,  the  peoph  seem  alive  to  the  neces- 
sity of  providing  proper  facilities  for  the  education  of  the  young. 
In  almost  every  community.  Schools  have  been,  or  are  being  estab- 
lished; academies  and  seminaries  have  been  organised  at  many 
points,  and  every  educational  advantage  enjoyed  in  the  east,  either 
in  the  elementary  or  advanced  branches  of  knowledge,  will  soon  be 
made  available  to  settlers,  even  on  the  frontiers  of  Minnesota. 

No  persons,  contemplating  emigration  from  the  east  to  this  Terri- 
tory, need  entertain  fears  that  in  doing  so  they  will  sacrifice  the  hope 
of  giving  their  children  the  benefits  of  an  enlightened  education. 


220 


MINNESOTA    AND    I'VH    KKS0URCE8. 


THE    COUITS. 


f* 


I  ■ 


On  the  19th  of  ]\Iarch,  1849,  President  Taylor  apponited 
the  following-named  persons  judges  of  the  supreme  court  of 
the  United  States  for  this  territory,  to  wit: — 

Aaron  Goodrich,  of 'I'ennessee,  chief-jastice; 

David  Cooper,  of  Pennsylvania,      »  .      . 

Bradley  B.  Meeker,  of  Kentucky,  }  Associate  justices. 

On  Sunday,  27th  IMay,  1849,  Governor  Alexander  Ramsey 
reached  St.  Paul,  and  on  the  1st  day  of  June,  he  proclaimed 
the  organization  of  this  territory,  recognised  its  officers,  and 
required  obedience  to  its  laAvs, 

On  the  lltli  June,  1849,  the  governor  issued  his  second 
proclamation,  dividing  the  territory  into  three  judical  districts, 
as  follows : — 

The  county  of  St.  Croix  constituted  the  first  district.,  the 
seat  of  justice  at  Stillwater;  the  first  court  to  he  held  on  tlie 
second  Monday  in  August,  1849.  The  seat  of  justice  for  the 
second  district  was  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony ;  the  first 
court  to  be  held  on  the  third  Monday  in  August.  The  seat  of 
justice  for  the  third  district  was  at  Meudota ;  the  first  court 
to  be  held  on  the  fourth  Monday  in  August. 

The  chief-justice  was  assigned  to  hold  the  courts  in  the  first 
district,  which  duty  he  performed  in  accordance  with  tlie  gov- 
ernor's proclamation.  This  was  the  first  comt  held  in  this 
territory;  it  remained  in  session  six  days.  Judge  ]\leeker 
was  assigned  to  hold  the  courts  in  the  second  district,  a\  iiich 
duty  he  performed;  there  was  no  cause  pending  in  this  court. 
Judge  Cooper  was  assigned  to  hold  the  courts  in  the  third 
district,  which  duty  was  performed  by  him.  No  cause  pend- 
ing in  this  court. 

There  was  at  this  period  fifteen  lawyers  in  the  territory. 

Up  to  this  time  we  have  had  three  trials  for  murder.  The 
accused  was  in  one  case  acquitted  by  the  jury,  and  in  another 
found  guilty  of  manslaughter,  and  imprisoned  in  Fort  Snelling 
for  a  period  of  one  year. 

A  Sioux  Indian  was  tried  in  tlie  November  term^  18-52,  he- 
fore  the  chief-justice  of  the  territory,  for  shooting  and  killing 


THE  COURTS. 


221 


a  white  woman,  and  notwithstanding  the  able  efforts  made  to  clear 
him  by  his  legal  advisers  (J.  J.  Noah,  and  D.  A.  Seccombe,  Esqg.), 
he  was  convicted  and  sentenced  to  bo  executed.     His  counsellors 
however    filed  a  bill   of  exceptions,  upon  which  the  final  issue 
rested.     Meanwhile  the  Indian  was  confined  in  jail  over  two  years 
and  finally  executed.  ' 

The  first  term  of  the  supreme  court  for  this  territory  was 
held  at  the  American  house,  in  the  toAvn  of  St.  Paul,  on  Mon- 
day, the  14th  January,  1850,  Judges  Goodrich  and  Cooper 
being  present.  There  are  at  this  time  two  courthouses  in  the 
territory —  one  at  St.  Paul,  the  other  at  Stillwater.  Two 
terms  of  the  supreme  court  arc  held  at  the  capital  each  year, 
commencing  on  the  last  Monday  of  February,  and  the  first 
Monday  of  September.  Such  other  special  terms  are  held  as 
the  judges  may  deem  necessary,  and  shall  from  time  to  time 
order. 

In  accordance  with  a  law  passed  at  the  last  session  of  the 
legislative  assembly,  the  terms  of  the  district  court  of  the  ter- 
ritory are  held  at  the  times  and  places  following  : 

In  the  county  of  Ramsey,  on  the  third  Monday  of  April, 
and  the  third  Monday  of  October ;  in  the  county  of  Washing- 
ton, on  the  first  Monday  of  April,  and  on  the  first  Monday  of 
October;  in  the  county  of  Chisago,  on  the  first  Monday  of 
June;  in  the  county  of  Benton,  on  the  second  Monday  of 
June,  and  second  Monday  of  December;  in  the  county  of 
Hennepin,  on  the  first  Monday  of  April,  and  the  first  Monday 
of  September ;  in  the  county  of  Dakota,  on  the  second  Mon- 
day of  September ;  in  the  county  of  Scott,  on  the  third  Mon- 
day of  September ;  in  the  county  of  Le  Sueur,  on  the  fourth 
Monday  of  September;  in  the  county  of  Blue-Earth,  on  the 
first  Monday  of  October ;  in  the  county  of  Nicollet,  on  the 
second  Monday  of  October ;  in  the  county  of  Wabashaw,  on  the 
second  Monday  in  June ;  in  the  county  of  Fillmore,  on  the 
fourth  Monday  of  June. 

Tlio  counties  of  Ramsey,  Wasliington  and  Chisago,  consti- 
tute the  first  judicial  district,  and  the  Hon.  Y\m.  II.  Welch  is 
district  judge  thereof. 

The  counties  west  of  the  Mississippi  river,  except  the  coun- 


i  i 


I 


222 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    lUiSOUKCKS. 


ties  of  Pembin.-i  ami  Cass,  constitute  the  seconfl  judiciuJ  district, 
and  tbo  Hon.  A.  G.  Cliatfield  is  district  judge  tliereof. 

And  the  counties  of  Benton,  Cass,  and  Pembina,  constitute 
the  third  judicial  district,  and  the  Hon,  Moses  Sherburne  is 
district  judge  thereof. 

Either  of  the  district  judges  arc  authorized  and  empowered 
to  hold  any  of  the  district  com:  .  r/igned  to  any  of  the  other 
district  judges,  or  any  of  the  sy^i  :al  terms  appointed  to  be 
held,  not  within  his  own  district,  or  any  of  the  chamber  duties 
within  each  district,  at  the  recjuest  of  the  district  judge  to 
whom  such  district  is  assigned. 

For  judicial  and  other  purposes,  to  enforce  civil  rights  and 
criminal  justice,  the  county  of  Itasca  is  attached  to  and  made 
a  part  of  Chisago  ;  the  counties  of  Cass  and  Pembina  are  at- 
tached to  Benton;  the  county  of  Sibley  is  attached 'to  Henne- 
pin; the  county  of  Pierce  is  attached  to  Nicollet ;  the  county 
of  Rice  is  attached  to  Dakota ;  and  the  county  of  Goodhue 
is  attached  to  the  county  of  Wabashaw. 


' 


GOVERNMENT    ROADS. 

The  policy  which  has  been  pursued  in  the  application  of  the 
several  appropriations  made  for  the  construction  of  roads  in 
Minnesota,  by  act  of  Congress,  of  July  18,  1850,  has  been  — 
firstly,  to  make  the  surveys,  and  prepare  maps  and  estimates, 
for  the  use  of  the  department  at  Washingt(m' having  control 
of  the  appropriation;  secondly,  to  a])ply  the  imcxpended 
balances  to  the  construction,  as  far  as  possible,  of  tlie  roads. 

The  surveys  of  the  several  roads  have  been  completed,  including 
that  of  the  contemplated  one  from  Mendota  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Big  Sioux  river. 

An  appropriation  of  ten  thousand  dollars  was  made  for  the 
purpose,  and  the  road  has  been  surveyed,  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Big  Sioux,  on  the  upper  Missouri,  to  a  point  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Minnesota  river,  opposite  Fort  Snelling.  They  were 
ordered  to  report  upon  its  adaptability  for  railway  purposes,  it 
being  contemplated  to  make  this  the  northerly  branch  of  tho  Pacific 
railway. 


GOVERNMENT   ROADS. 


223 


I 


This  country  is  unexplored,  the  surveys   of  government  lands 
being   two   hundred  aniles   east   of    the    Sioux    river.     Tt   passes 
through    the   country   lately   acquired    from    the   Sioux    Indians, 
who  still  roamed  the  '<  Traverse  des  Sioux"  unmolested,  but  this 
progressive  age  did  not  permit  those  fertile  tracts  to  remain  in 
undisputed  possession    of  either   Indians   or   buffalo.     The  pnrty 
consisted   of  Capi.In    Reno,  of  the   United    States   army,  chief; 
Captain   Tilton,    late    cliief    engineer    of    railroads    in  "'Indiana, 
chief  engineer;  Mr.  Cross,  formerly  of  the  army,  assistant  engi- 
neer; and  twenty  men,  principally  of  the  fur  companies  of  St. 
Louis,    all   furnished   with    Colt's   pistols    and    the   patent   rifle. 
Captain    Tilton,  chief   engineer  was    intrusted  with    the   duty  of 
making  a  report  upon  the  practicability  of  this  country  for  railway 
purposes.    The  result  of  the  labors  of  the  party  were  placed  before 
the  department,  in  accordance  with  a  resolution  nf  Congress  in  1853, 
making  an  appropriation  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  tliousand  dollars' 
for  surveys  and  explorations  connected  with  the  Pacific  railroad  and 
its  branches. 

The  road  from  Wahashaw  to  Meudota  has  been  surveyed, 
and  a  portion  of  tlie  road,  with  a  number  of  bridgrs  along 
Lake  Pepin,  are  now  under  contract,  and  are  to  be  completed 
as  soon  as  practicable. 

The  road  from  Point  Douglas  to  Fort  Ripley  has  been  ren- 
dered available  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  ;  and  bridges,  with 
suitable  approaches,  have  been  built  over  Coon  creek,  Elk 
river,  and  Rock  creek,  a^iis  road  is  a  military  and  com- 
mercial thoroughfare,  by  which  the  Chippewa  and  Winnebago 
Indians,  the  troops  at  Fort  Ripley,  and  the  traders  at  Pembina 
and  Selkirk  receive  their  supplies.  Thirty  miles  of  this  road 
are  also  under  contract. 

The  road  from  the  ^Mississippi  river  to  Long  Prairie,  here- 
tofore almost  impassable  in  seasons  of  high  water,  has  been 
much  improved  ;  and  bridges  have  been  built  at  the  two 
crossings  of  Swan  river.  Nine  miles  of  this  road  are  now 
completed. 

Twenty-f,mr  miles  of  the  Point  Douglas  and  St.  Louis  river 
road  have  been  constructed,  opening,  from  Stillwater  north- 
ward for  that  distance,  a  good  highway.     The  extension  of 


■Ww- 


m       fir 


■11/ i 


;  m 


s 


'    '''   . 

.i' 


i,i 
i  1 


"'J 


224 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS   RKSOUIiCIiS. 


this  road  is  rcquirca  to  bring  into  market  the  extensive  and 
richly-wooded,  but  inaccessible  region,  lying  north  of  the 
Marine  mills,  and  open  to  settlement  and  the  enterprise  of  our 
lumbermen,  tracts  of  valuable  land,  now  lying  waste  for  want 
of  means  of  communication  with  them.  Nineteen  miles  of  this 
road  are  under  contract,  and  will  be  finished  this  season.  This 
will  complete  it  from  Stillwater  to  the  vicinity  of  Sunrise  river. 
Forty  thousand  dollars  have  been  appropriated  on  this  road 
alone 

-  [Since  the  preparation  of  the  preceding  in  1853,  the  "Big  Sioux 
Road"  has  been  completed  from  Mendota  about  one  hundred  miles 
to  the  southwest.— The  road  from  Wabashaw  to  Mendota  has  been 
completed.  — The  Saint  Louis  River  and  Point  Douglas  Road  has 
been  completed  to  within  about  fifty  miles  of  Lake  Superior.— The 
Long  Prairie  Road  is  completed.  —  Territorial  Roads  have  been 
laid  out  by  the  hundred,  connecting  the  most  distant  points.  But 
a  short  time  will  elapse  before  easy  access  will  be  aflForded  to  every 
portion  of  the  Territory.] 


hi 


MISCELLANEOUS    MA'lTEJiS. 


225 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

MISCELLANEOUS    MATTERS. 

EvERv  good  thing  has  its  alloy.     The  perpetual  summer  of 
the  tropics  produces  inactivity  in   man,  as  well  as   a  super- 
abumlance  of  spontaneous  fruits  to  supply  his  wants.     The 
herdsman  upon  the  pampas  of  South  America,  with  his  innu- 
mei-ab  e  cattle  that  are  reared  without  the  expense  of  feedintr 
or  shelter  with  all  his  apparent  resources  of  wealth,  is  poor-- 
but  httle  better  than  a  savage.     The  farmer  upon  the  American 
bottoms,  who  turns  over  his  hundred  acres  of  black  furrows  in 
one  field,  which  presently  becomes  as  it  were  a  young  forest 
ot  green  maize,  waving  and  rustling  in  the  sultry  breezes  of 
August,  as  he  sits  in  the  open   space  between  his   two  lor. 
cabins,  at  noonday,  feeble  and  enervated,  and  his  little  pale 
children,  shaking  with  ague,  gather  around  him,  and  he  listens 
to  the  shrill_  cry  of  the  locust-and  sees  far  off  upon  the 
Mississippi  river,  the  steamboat- even  the  steamboat-hot, 
panting,  exhausted,  smiting  the  sluggish  waters  with  feeble 
strokes;  his  very  heart  sinks  within  him-and  iie  sighs  for 
the  cool,  bracing  mountain  air,  or  the  stimulating  sea-breeze 
and  the  sparkling  spring  water;  and  would  exchange  all  his 
corn-fields  and  his  acres  for  a  garden  among  the  sterile  rocks 
oi   the  north,   with  its  rigors,   its  snow-banks,  and   its  little 
painted  schoolhouses.     So  California  has  its  alloy  !  ah,  much 
more  alloy  than  gold.     It  may  be  considered   an  axiom,  that 
the  richest  lands  are  not  found  in  the  most  healthful  climates 
iSatnre  delights  in  making  an  equitable  average  in  the  distri- 
bution of  hor  favors  ;  ..Uhn^gh  her  equivalents  at  fir«t  thouglit 


lay 


quite 


10^ 


I 


226 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS   ItESOUKCES. 


::1 


AV^liat  shall  It  profit  anmti  to  choose  landH,  watered  by  creeks 
full  of  fever  and  ague,  and  horn-pouts  and  lily-pads,  producing 
one  hundred  biishels  of  torn  to  the  acre,  and  worth  twenty 
cents  per  bushel,  rather  than  lands  watered  by  trout  brooks 
and  mossy  s])rings,  producing  only  fifty  bushels  of  corn  per 
acre,  worth  seventy-live  cents  per  bushel  1 

Settlers,  what  do  you  want  I  AVill  it  satisfy  yon  to  get 
land,  as  good  as  there  is  in  New  lork  or  New  lOngland,  where 
tlie  climate  is  even  better,  and  the  market  all  you  i)leaso  to 
ask  ?  Such  lands  you  can  find.  We  have  warm,  sandy  loams, 
rich  argillaceous  soils,  clay  lands,  precisely  like  the  barrens 
of  Michigan,  all  —  all  productive  lands,  far  better  than  they 
look  —  and,  in  fact,  such  as  will  soon  make  an  industrious 
farmer  rich.  Or  will  yon  be  satisfied  with  nothing  but  the  fiat, 
mietuous  prairies  of  Illinois,  extending  in  unbroken  plains, 
and  watered  by  stagnant  creeks  ]  If  so,  in  God's  name  go 
there  and  settle,  and  when  the  great  blazing  sun  sets,  and 
leaves  you  there  upon  the  chill  naked  praivie,  your  children 
sick  nnd  uneducated,  and  without  one  hope  or  aspiration 
rising  above  the  dead  level  that  surrounds  you  there,  remember 
—  remember  that  these  things  have  been  told  you. 

This  immense  region  is  bountifully  watered  by  the  Missis- 
sippi, Minnesota,  and  Missouri  rivers,  and  the  Red  river  of  the 
north,  and  their  numerous  tributary  streams,  which  traverse  it 
in  every  part.  At  a  point  about  seventy  or  eighty  miles  above 
the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  west  of  the  Mississippi,  commences  a 
laigo  and  remarkable  forest,  which  extends  to  the  southward, 
nearly  at  a  right  angle,  across  the  I\Iinnesot^  river,  to  the 
branches  of  the  Mankato  or  Blue-Earth  river.  This  vast 
body  of  woodland  is  more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
in  length,  and  fiom  fifteen  to  forty  in  breadth.  Many  beautiful 
lakes  of  limpid  water  are  found  within  its  limits,  which  are 
the  resort  of  myriads  of  wild  fowl,  including  swans,  geese, 
and  ducks.  These  dense  thickets  along  its  border  afford 
places  of  concealment  for  the  deer,  which  are  killed  in  great 
numbers  by  the  Indians.  The  numerous  groves  of  hard  maple 
afford  to  the  latter,  at  the  proper  season,  the  means  of  m.aking 
sugar,  while  the  large  cotton-woods  and  butternuts  are  con- 


MISCKI.LANEOUS    MATTERS. 


227 


vert(Ml  by  tlicm  into  canoes,  for  tlio  transportation  of  tlifltn- 
selvcs  uJid  their  families  alonj,'  the  water-courses  and  lakes. 
At  the  approach  of  winter,  the  bands  of  Dakotas  or  Sioux, 
save  those  who  rely  exclusively  upon  buffalo  for  subsistence, 
seek  the  deepest  recesses  of  the  forest  to  hunt  the  bear, 
the  deer,  and  smr-llcr  fur-bearing  animals,  amonj^  which  may 
be  enumerated  the  raccoon,  the  fisher,  and  the  marten.  In  this 
beautiful  country  are  to  be  found  all  the  requisites  to  sustain  a 
dense  po^julation.  The  soil  iF  of  great  fertility  and  unknown 
depth,  covered  as  it  is  with  the  mould  of  a  thousand  years. 
The  Indian  is  licro  in  his  forest  home,  hitherto  secure  from 
the  intrusion  of  the  palo  faces  ;  but  tlie  advancing  tide  of 
civilization  warns  him,  that  the  time  has  arrived  Avhen  he  must 
yield  up  the  title  to  this  fair  domain,  and  seek  another  and  a 
strange  dwelling-place. 

Minnesota  now  occupies  no  unenviable  position.  The  gov- 
ernment granted  us,  secures  us  all  in  the  full  possession  of 
privileges  almost  i.  not  fully  equal  to  those  enjoyed  by  the 
people  of  the  states.  With  a  legislative  council  elected  from 
among  our  own  citizens,  our  own  judicial  tribunals,  with  f.uiple 
provision  for  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  territorial  govern- 
ment, and  with  the  right  of  representation  in  the  halls  of 
Congresi.,  surely  Ave  can  have  no  cause  of  complaint  so  far  as 
our  political  situation  is  concerned.  It  is  for  ourselves,  by  a 
wise,  careful,  and  practical  legislation,  and  by  the  improving 
the  advantages  we  possess,  lo  keep  inviolate  the  public  faith, 
and  to  hasten  the  time  when  the  star  of  Minnesota,  which 
now  but  twinkles  in  the  political  firmament,  shall  shine  uril- 
liantly  in  the  constellation  of  our  confederated  states. 

As  a  territory,  but  yesterday  without  a  name,  or  political 
existence,  our  growth  has  been  of  the  most  satisfactory  charac- 
ter. Health  has  prevailed  within  our  borders.  Our  new  soil 
has  not  failed  to  respond  gratefully  to  the  labors  of  the  hus- 
bandman ;  and  already  in  places,  our  prairies,  scarcely  aban- 
doned by  the  disappearing  buffiilo,  are  assuming  a  robe  of 
cultivated  verdure.  The  enterprise  of  our  hardy  lumbermen 
has  met  with  a  liberal  return.;  and  there  has  been  a  rapid 
augmentation  of  this  important  element  of  wealth,  and  rich 


I  'I   I 
'  1' 


),  1 ; 


i  «     ! 


228 


MINNKS(»TA    AND    im    KKSuCKOICS. 


™ 


\\ 


Bonrro  of  rovonue,  ho  invnlnal»l«  to  oiirKoIvos,  as  well  ns  to  tlin 
country  on  tlio  pront  river  to  tlio  Hoiitli  of  uh. 

In  till!  oycH  of  tlio  world,  MiiincHota  is  a  pociiliar  country 
It  is  to  their  view  elevnted  uiornliy  an  well  as  jiliysically  above 
tlii;  horizon  of  other  new  countrleH,  ns  it  were  in  an  illusion  of 
tniroire.  The  world  ref^ards  it  not  ns  the  Eldorado  of  gold,  hut 
of  a  happy  homo  for  cultivated  man. 

Emigration  to  the  West  has  hcretoforo  heen  nauseously 
associated  with  the  i<lea  of  low  latitudes,  the  miasms  of  flat 
lands,  and  consequent  disease  and  heart-sickening  disappoint- 
ments. It  has,  too,  been  associated  with  back-woods  institu- 
tions—  lynch  law,  the  bowie-knife,  uncertain  means  of  educa- 
tion, and  a  gospel  ministry  on  horseback.  Minnesota  presents 
another  picture,  and  is  truly  a  plienomenon  in  the  eyes  of  tho 
migrating  world.  It  occupies  a  high  latitude,  has  a  quickly- 
drained  surface,  and  is  the  inviting  home  of  intelligence,  enter- 
prise, good  laws,  schools,  and  churches. 

In  a  moral  view  especially,  the  world  anticipates  much  for 
Minnesota.  For  a  people,  like  trees,  are  exjtonents  of  the  soil 
on  which  they  subsist  and  the  atmos|)liere  they  breathe.  The 
observation  of  the  world  has  made  this  an  axitnn  —  like  coun- 
try, like  people.  Considering  then  our  location  upon  the 
earth,  is  it  not  evident  that  our  territory  is  not  only  a  peculiar 
land,  but  that  it  is  to  be  the  home  of  a  peculiar  people?  We 
who  are  here,  migrated  with  that  idea  before  us,  and  we  are 
still  guided  by  it.  That  portion  of  the  emigrating  class  who 
entertain  the  same  idea,  will  of  course  come  hero  too. 

Califoinia  is  a  phenomenon  too,  but  she  addresses  her  claims 
to  another  and  a  different  class  of  people  from  those  who 
appreciate  ]\Iinnesota ;  besides,  she  is  not  materially  unlike 
tho  other  Spanish  provinces  which  have  in  earlier  times  been 
famed  for  gold  alone.  But  our  territory  addresses  itself  to  a 
wiser  and  a  better  class  than  the  mere  seekers  of  gold.  It 
addresses  itself  to  that  class  who  value  a  good  home  for  a  man, 
a  land  of  moderate  affluence,  la  ■.  and  order,  intelligence  and 
virtue.  If  its  destiny  is  to  be  the  best  home  for  that  large 
class  of  people  toward  the  rising  sun,  who  seek  a  new  home, 
does  It  not  behoove  us  to  see  that  this  destiny  is  well  carried 


Th 


:i     I 


' 


MIsUKLr,ANK(»U8    MATrERS. 


229 


out.  TIm'  i»Ilf,'ilinH  nt  Tlymoutli  did  tlioir  diify  to  tlioir  poHtcrity, 
and  timf  pcopli'  Imvi?  hi'v.u  [nosiicrcd.  VVilliam  l*eim  mid  Iuh 
followers  (lid  tlicirdiity,  and  tlicir  posterity  have  been  prospen-d. 

The  jiresent  population  of  Minnesota  are  responsihle  for  her 
future  prosperity.  Jt  is  for  us  to  lay  the  fouiulations  of  jjood 
iuHtifutioiiH  or  of  thoHc  planted  in  error  wliich  in  time  will  fall. 

Let  generous  nnd  good  men  ho  siistained  in  their  philan- 
throj)ie  pnr|)oseH,  but  let  individualsAvho  seek  personal  aggran- 
di/i'iiient  at  the  expense  of  law  and  order  Ik;  rehuked. 

Minnesota  is  di'stined  to  assutnc  a  high  rank  among  the 
states  the  Union.  The  high  toned  character  of  the  pojiulation, 
so  (litlerent  from  that  us. -ally  found  upon  the  frontier — their 
obedience  to  biw  —  the  zeal  manifested  in  the  cause  of  educa- 
tion,  the  disposition  universally  shown  to  make  every-  sacrifice 
to  place  the  jjrosperity  of  the  territory  upon  a  sure  basis  —  the 
aversion  felt  to  all  schemes  which  may  in  any  wise  entail 
emharrassmeut  or  deht  upon  the  future  state,  and  the  general 
anxiety  to  maintain  the  character  of  the  territory  unblemished 
aftbrd  a  sure  guaranty  of  the  moral  principles  by  whicli  the 
people  -will  always  be  guided,  and  upon  which  their  govern- 
ment will  be  conducted.  The  munilicent  grants  of  land  made 
by  Congress  for  the  university  and  for  the  maintenance  of 
common  schools,  will  be  husbanded  with  great  care,  so  that  the 
henelits  of  education  may  be  extended  to  every  one  who  is 
desirous  to  avail  himself  of  such  privileges.  The  population 
of  the  territory  has  more  tha.  quadrupled  since  the  census  of 
1854,  and  it  is  morally  certain  that  there  will  be  an  addition 
to  it  of  thirty  thousand  souls  in  the  lapse  of  another  year. 
The  immigration  to  Minnesota  is  composed  of  men  who  come 
with  the  well-founded  assurance  that,  in  a  laud  where  Nature 
has  lavished  her  choicest  gifts  —  where  sickness  has  no  dwel- 
ling-place—  where  the  dreaded  cholera  has  clai  ned  no  victims 
—  their  toil  will  be  amply  rewarded,  while  their  persons  and 
property  are  fully  protected  by  the  broad  s,aield  of  law.  The 
Buu  shines  not  upon  a  fairer  region — one  more  desirable 
as  a  home  for  the  mechanic,  the  farmer  and  the  laborer, 
or  where  their  indusl/y  will  be  more  surely  requited  —  than 
Iviiunesota  territory. 


i 


I  j 


\.r''  •'; 


M 


II  ■  -^ 


I 


11    'If 


230 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS   R1!SOUROK8. 


f       1 


We  shall  raise  cattle  for  those  states  where  they  can  not 
do  it  so  well.  Our  beef  and  horses  will  be  as  much  more  val- 
uable than  the  same  products  of  the  states  below  us,  as  are 
the  agricultural  products  of  New  England  superior  in  quality 
to  those  of  the  general  west.  Our  meats  will  have  a  higher 
flavor,  and  our  horses  more  activity.  We  shall  grow  wool  to 
great  advantage,  all  the  way  to  Pembina,  five  hundred  miles 
north.  We  shall  grow  flax,  and  prepare  it  for  the  eastern 
market  at  our  numerous  places  for  water  power.  We  shall  ex- 
port potatoes,  a  source  of  income  which  of  itself  VjuukI  sustain 
us,  as  k  now  nearly  sustains  Nova  Scotia.  But  I  believe  that 
our  chiefest  reliance  as  an  article  of  export,  will  be  our  manu- 
factured lumber.  We  have  facilities  for  this  branch  of  busi- 
ness that  can  scarcely  be  found  elsewhere.  All  the  states  on 
the  Mississippi,  tv^o  thousand  miles  to  its  mouth,  and  the  West 
Indies  and  Mexico,  would  be  our  natural  markets  for  this  pro- 
duction. No  section  of  the  world  could  compete  with  us. 
The  pine  may  here  be  converted,  and  principally  by  machin- 
ery, into  a  thousand  forms — from  a  meetinghouse  to  a  noggin. 
St.  Anthony  will  delight  to  fill  orders. 

In  th<j  order  of  things  it  can  not  be  but  the  mines  on  our 
lake  shore  will  be  the  foundation  for  wealthy  towns,  the  lake 
itself  the  field  of  the  most  important  fisheries,  and  as  a  conse- 
quence, there  will  be  avenues  of  trade  opened  between  the 
head  of  southern  and  northern"  navigation.  The  capital  of 
distant  cities  emulous  for  this  trade  will  be  invested  in  these 
works.  Labor  will  flow  in  at  the  call  of  capital,  and  popula- 
tion will  increase  in  ratio  w'th  the  profits  of  such  investments. 
There  are  a  hundred  topics  of  intellectual  speculation  like 
these,  that  I  might  take  up,  but  our  chickens  are  so  many  that 
I  will  not  attempt  to  count  them,  but  ask  the  world  to  come 
and  see  them  hatch. 

We  have  the  attractive  country,  and  with  these  sources  of 
population  at  our  con  mand,  who  can  even  approximate  to  a 
correct  estimate  of  our  future  increase  1  I  will  certainly  be 
safe  to  anticipate  the  proportional  increase  for  the  next  five 
yearo,  as  equal  to  at  least  double  that  of  any  other  portion  of 
the  west  during  the  ])ast  five  years. 


' 


if   I 
if 


THE    PUBLIC   LANDS. 


231 


I  hope  that  thousands  of  immigration  companies  will  be 
formed  during  the  present  year,  and  that  those  engaged  in 
organizing  them  will  not  overlook  the  superior  advantages  of 
Minnesota.  I  sincerely  believe  that  no  other  portion  of  the 
west  presents  so  many  attractions  to  the  enterprising  immigrant 
as  our  own  territory.  A  large  portion  of  it  is  situated  upon 
the  navigable  head-waters  and  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi, 
thus  being  in  intimate  communication  Avith  the  richest' and  5 
most  thriving  portion  of  the  Union. 

Most  of  the  lands  so  situated  are  in  the  Sioux  country,  and  ^ 
may  be  taken  possession  of  by  actual  settlers  before  they^ 
come  into  market,  and  fall  into  the  hands  of  speculators. 
Those  who  enrich  the  soil  by  their  labor  ougT;',  to  be  its  own- 
ers. Although  we  entertain  this  opinion,  we  condemn  no  man 
for  speculating  in  land.  While  the  system  of  land  speculation 
continues,  every  one  is  justified  in  striving  to  share  in  its  ad- 
vantages. 

No  fact  is  more  evident,  than  that  both  the  settlers  and  the 
territory  would  be  in  a  far  more  prosperous  condition,  if  our 
lands  were  owned  by  none  but  those  who  occupy  or  improve 
them  by  their  own  labor  and  capital. 

The  Sioux  treat'  s  having  been  ratified  by  the  senate  of 
the  United  States,  more  than  twenty  millions  of  acres  of 
land  are  open  for  settlement,  before  it  can  be  surveyed — be- 
fore   IT    CAN    BE     MONOPOLISED    BY    SPECULATORS.       The    SUn 

never  shone  upon  a  more  beautiful  or  fertile  land.  A  more 
sah'brious  country,  old  or  new,  exists  not  in  the  broad  domain 
of  the  east  or  west. 

Go  to  work,  men,  in  the  states — men  of  industry,  enter- 
prise, and  intelligence.  Organize  youi-  emigration  companies, 
shake  the  dust  from  your  feet,  and  haste^i  on  to  the  wild  lands 
of  Minnesota,  which  bid  you  take  them,  without  money  and 
without  price. 

You  will  have  nothing  more  to  do  than  come  and  take  pos- 
session of  the  lands.  Your  "  claims"  thus  made  will  be  a 
sufllcicnt  title  till  theso  lands  shall  have  been  surveyed  and 
brouglit  into  market. 

From  the  Iowa  line  to  the  Minnesota  river — from  the  Mis- 


ti 

III. 


I 


232 


MINNKSOTA    A. ID    VIS   RKSO TUCKS. 


Bissippi  reaching  beyond  the  head-waters  of  the  Blue-Earth, 
lays  a  broad  scope  of  territory,  unsurpassed  in  all  the  neces- 
Bary  qualities  of  a  richly-favored  agricultural  country  —  rol- 
ling prairies,  heavy  timber,  Avell  watered,  and  quite  exempt 
from  malarious  influences.  So  easy  of  access,  that  navigable 
rivers  wash  two  sides  for  hundreds  of  miles  in  length.  Those 
who  settle  upon  the  Minnesota  will  have  steamboats  at  their 
doors,  while  those  who  fill  up  the  more  central  portions  will 
not  Avait  long  for  the  iron  road. 

No  kind  of  evil  conduct  on  the  part  of  the  press  or  individ- 
ual Avriters,  is  more  reprehensible,  or  should  bo  condemned 
with  more  severity,  than  that  of  deliberately  planning  the 
inv  'igling  and  misleading  of  immigrants  by  false  representa- 
tions and  exaggerated  coloring  to  valueless  property. 

The  majority  of  home-seekers  from  foreign  parts  have  a  nice 
little  sum  of  gold  carefully  stowed  away,  the  fruit  of  years  of 
toil  and  saving,  Avhich,  upon  landing  in  a  new  and  strange  coun- 
try, is  their  present  dependence,  and  upon  the  v/ise  disposal  of 
which  their  future  happiness  and  prosperity  mainly  depend. 

While  our  newspapers  and  writers  have  said  very  much  in 
favor  of  settling  in  Minnesota — have  insisted  strongly  upon 
her  agricultural,  mercantile,  and  lumbering  interests,  they 
have  dealt  very  little  in  exaggerated  statements,  or  inflated 
indiicements." 

Much  excitement  prevails  about  this  time  on  the  subject  of 
towns  in  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota  river.  Now,  honestly 
speaking,  there  is  not  a  city  from  its  mouth  to  its  source. 
That  bustle,  activity,  and  enterprise,  are  busy  at  many  charm- 
ing eligible  points  is  true,  and  it  is  not  less  true,  that  towns 
will  grow  up  in  the  valley,  which  most  of  the  older  writers  call 
a  second  Nile.     But  the  towns  are  yet  infufuro. 

The  ofliering  of  lots  in  these  sites  for  sale  at  reasonable 
prices,  can  not  be  considered  an  illegitimate  speculation.  We 
all  know  that  the  Minnesota  valley  is  unsurpassed  in  beauty 
and  fertility,  and  as  a  charming  place  of  residence,  where  in- 
dustry will  be  rewarded  by  an  overflowing  abundance,  which 
has  but  few  places  to  etjual  it. 

That  a  dense  population  will  soon  crowd  the  banks  of  the 


THE   GRUilBLEK A   SKETCH. 


233 


ad- 


nver,  and  that,  at  the  favorable  points,  these  people  will  con- 
grogate  together,  forming  towns  and  cities,  there  can  be  no 
doubt;  then,  should  the  rise  in  property  hold  in  any  proportion 
to  that  in  St.  Paul  it  is  hard  to  say  what  lots  really Uworth 
in  the  best  located  town-plots  at  this  moment 

It  can  not  be  expected  that  we  shall  feel  as  much  interest 
n  the  creation  of  these  towns  as  the  settling  of  the  agricul- 
tural portion  of  the  country.     It  pains  me  to  think  that  tens 
of  thousands  are  toiling  in  the  far  East,  upon  a  stingy,  beggar- 
y.  wornout  soil,  yielding  scarcely  sufficient  to  keep  soul  and 
body  together,  while  in  that  delicious  valley  the  most  luxuri- 
ant  growths  fall  uncropped  to  the  gi-ound.     With  the  voice  of 
a  fetentor,  Minnesota  might  proclaim  to  all  nations,  "  Come 
unto  me  all  ye  who  are  hungry  and  naked,  and  I  will  feed 
and  clothe  ye."_    But  she  should  add,  "  Bring  a  good  stock  of 
industry,  amtition,  patience,  and  perseverance,  and  don't  ex- 
pect to  find  large  cities,  with  marble  palaces,  but  a  rich,  open 
soil    with  plenty  of  wood  and  stone  for  building."     Armed 
with  fortitude  and  a  small  capital,  we  say  come,  and  when  you 
come  go  to  work,  and  blessings  will  rapidly  multiply  around  you. 
But  there  is  a  class  of  immigrants  who  are  deserving  of  re- 
proof, for  their  desire  to  cavil  and  find  fault  with  everything 
not   suited  to   their  ideas   of   accumulating  wealth  without 
trouble  or  difficulty.     The  following  article  from  the  pen  of 
Major  J  J.  Noah,  from  the  Minnesota  Pioneer,  gives  a  correct 
idea  of  the  "grumbler"  and  his  reproof:— 

"Minnesota  must  create  some  noise  in  the  world,  and  some 
anxiety  on  the  part  of  adventurers  to  visit  and  examine  its 
resources.  Every  boat  comes  thronged  with  new  faces,  all 
eager  in  inquiring  what  and  how  chance  may  favor  them  in 
their  whims,  caprices,  and  predilections.  Mr.  Simpkins,  an 
old  citizen,  meets  a  friend  from  the  east,  a  schoolmate  and 
boy-companion,  just  arrived  from  home  to  take  a  peep  at  this 
region  of  bears'  meat  and  buffalo.  Timpkins  is  naturally  glad 
to  see  his  old  friend,  Mr.  Codger,  and  after  the  natural  in- 
quiries of  bygone  days,  they  walk  up  Third  street,  arm-in-arm. 

"Meetino"  Mi-  Eptorr^i""    "n/^+l> /~''J     '^'  '^- 

_, ^s.i.rpaov,  anotnur  oiu  ciuzcD,  eimpiims  iu- 

troduces  Cqdger,  and  dialogues  as  follow  :— 


I 


1 

il  i 


234 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    K1C80URCES. 


m 


"'Mr.  Enterprise,  this  is  my  old  friend  Codger,  from  old 
New  York  ;  boys  together ;  come  up  here,  wishes  to  see  the 
country,  locate  a  land-Avarrant,  build  a  farm,  get  married,  &c.* 

"  After  Messrs.  Codger  and  Enterpvibe  shake  hands,  and 
the  compliments  of  a  new  acquaintance  have  passed,  Codger 
puts  Enterprise  upon  his  cross-examination  without  mercy  or 
justice. 

"'Fine  country  this !'  quoth  Codger;  'how  long  have  you 
been  here — three  years,  eh  ?  town  built  up  in  too  gi-eat  a  hur- 
ry. Any  back  country  to  support  all  this  1  Potatoes  raised 
here?  Oo.u  won't  grow  —  too  cold!  Wheat  thrive  here? 
Plenty  of  buffaloes  and  deer,  I  suppose ;  no  trouble  to  kill 
them?  Afraid  of  Injuns  —  won't  they  tomahawk  a  fellow?' 
And  so  on  through  a  multitude  of  inquiries,  until  Mr.  Enter- 
prise is  seriously  troubled  which  to  answer  first,  or  to  inform 
Simpkins  that  his  friend  is  either  aberrated  or  foolish ;  and  as 
soon  as  he  can  get  a  word  in  edgewise,  he  quietly  remarks  : — 

"  *  Mr.  Codger,  I  came  here  some  three  years  since  from  the 
state  of  Pennsylvania,  with  my  family  and  a  little  money.  I 
bought  a  town  lot  in  St.  Paul,  which  was  then  in  embryo,  con- 
taining a  few  scattei-ed  houses,  a  government  just  formed,  and 
laws  scarcely  fledged.  I  found  a  scant  population,  mostly  men 
of  intelligence  and  energy,  Avho  assisted  and  welcomed  my 
advent  among  them.  I  became  possessed  of  the  presentiment 
of  a  bright  future  for  Minnesota,  and  building  a  shelter  for  my 
family  —  rolled  up  my  sleeves,  and  worked  at  anything  I 
could  get  to  do.  As  my  character  was  known,  so  my  credit 
and  standing  increased.  A  slight  acquisition  of  capital  gave 
me  opportunities  to  speculate  in  town  property ;  but  I  worked 
all  the  while,  drove  a  team,  chopped  wood,  and  not  finding 
society  as  exacting  as  in  the  east,  I  progressed  in  means  as 
the  country  progressed  in  importance,  and  as  other  men  of 
different  occupations  followed  the  same  course,  you  see  that 
St.  Paul  has  become  a  metropolis,  and  the  country  filled  with 
enterprising  farmers,  breaking  prairie,  raising  crops,  and  ma- 
king themselves  useful  citizens.  All  this  has  not  been  done 
without  labor,  nor  has  there  been  few  obstacles  to  this  sequel. 
Poverty  has  waged  her  bitter  war  against  us  — jealous  countries 


A    WORD  TO   NEW-COMERS. 


235 


liave  belied  and  attempted  to  injure  our  growth,  but  it  is  some 
satisfaction  to  know  that  we  have  succeeded,  built  up  a  country 
and  a  name  in  the  far  northwest,  and  made  it  of  such  impor- 
tance, that  the  whole  Mississippi  valley  feels  our  slightest 
pulsation,  and  gazes  with  eager  eyes  upon  our  minutest  trans- 
actions. 

" '  Do  not  fancy  for  a  moment,  sir,  that  the  progress  of  these 
events  has  been  a  matter  of  course.  We  all  have  fought  for 
tliem,  and  battled  for  their  success.  The  farmers,  the  pine 
forests,  the  Indian  trade,  the  lumber  interests,  the  magnificent 
water  power,  the  manufacturer,  the  tradesman,  the  physician, 
the  lawyer,  the  editor — all  have  combined  jointly  and  singly 
to  bring  about  these  results,  and  to  each  belong  their  share 
of  praise  and  their  quota  of  remuneration.  If  you  wish  to 
settle  here,  locate  your  warrant,  build  your  shanty,  plough  up 
a  few  acres,  fence  them,  sow  some  potatoes,  live  economically, 
and  work  your  way  quietly  into  affluence,  possessed  of  a  fine 
farm,  a  good  name,  and  bright  prospects.  But  if  you  have 
come  here  with  a  desire  to  cavil  and  find  fault,  doing  nothing 
to  advance  yourself,  you  will  discover  your  error  too  late  to 
retrieve.  Be  enterprising,  and  do  not  foresee  difficulties,  but 
rather  prepare  to  surmount  pyramids  of  disadvantages  !' 

'■'A  word  to  new-comers.  It  is  wholesome  advice,  and  will 
prove  true.  If  a  man  comes  to  Minnesota  to  settle,  his  way  to 
fortune  will  not  be  smooth.  Let  that  be  clearly  understood. 
Do  not  cavil  or  find  fault,  but  come  prepared  for  work  and 
labor.  Be  enterprising  —  and  persevere.  If  you  go  back  to 
your  home  in  the  East,  underrating  our  country  merely  upon  a 
cursory  glance,  you  do  us  great  injustice  as  well  as  yourself. 
Let  your  motto  be  '  onward  ;'  time  will  accomplish  all ;  and 
when  by  population  our  internal  resources  develop  themselves, 
you  will  be  proud  of  your  remote  home,  the  '  New  England  of 
the  West.' 

"  As  for  minute  details,  they  are  now  unnecessary ;  let  every 
man  come  and  see  us  for  himself — then  judge.  If,  when  here, 
he  will  only  put  himself  at  anything  he  findeth  for  his  hand 
to  do,  and  tben  no  it,  tvith  all  ?iis  might,  he  can  not  fail  of 
ultimate  success." 


M\ 


I 


286 


MINNESOTA  AND  ITS  EE80UKCE3. 


THE    HKALTH    OP    MINNESOTA. 


As  liealtli  is  the  peculiai-ity  of  the  tenitoiy,  and  its  enjoy- 
ment being  the  greatest  blessing  bestowed  by  Providence,  we 
have  cause  to  be  thankful  to  him  for  casting  here  our  lot. 

It  is  the  constant  remark  of  visiters  among  us,  old  and 
young,  that  there  is  something  in  our  atmosphere  or  climate 
—  they  know  not  what — which  exhilarates  the  mind,  and 
sharpens  the  appetite.  I  have  seen  many  persons  arrive  here 
in  feeble  health,  languid  and  depressed  in  spirits,  and,  after 
a  short  stay,  depart  renewed  and  refreshed  in  body  and  mind. 

It  will  no  longer  be  unknown,  or  doubted,  that  Minnesota 
possesses,  in  a  degree  unsurpassed,  the  two  great  elements  of 
health  :  — a  climate  in  harmony  with  the  most  perfect  condition 
of  the  human  body,  responsive  to  the  demands  of  every  phys- 
ical necessity ;  the  picturesque  scenery,  the  topographical 
grandeur,  and  the  charming  variety  of  natural  beauty,  com- 
bined with  allurements  to  active  enjoyments  —  the  ride,  the 
walk,  excursions  by  land  or  water,  fishing  in  silvery  lakes, 
the  hunt,  and  the  innumerable  rational  sports  suggested  by  our 
climate  and  natural  advantages.  These  unite  to  gratify  and 
exhilarate  the  mind  of  the  invalid,  and  are  of  all  physic  the 
most  pleasant,  soothing,  and  curative,  for  the  body. 

In  addition  to  natural  advantages.  Art  will  contribute  by 
her  handiwork,  the  appliances,  elegant  and  useful,  essential  to 
the  comfort  and  gratification  of  visiting  invalids.  The  accom- 
modations of  the  hotels  in  St.  Paul,  St.  Anthonv,  and  Still- 
water,  are  not  surpassed,  if  equalled,  in  any  towns  of  like 
extent  in  the  West.  But  these  establishments  do  not  satisfy 
the  luxurious  wants  of  the  wealthy  classes  who  fly  from  the 
heat  of  the  South,  and  the  dust  of  thronged  cities,  to  more 
healthy,  pleasant,  or  sequestered  summer  retreats.  The  in- 
creasing demand  will  soon  supply  hotels  of  the  first  class, 
furnished  in  the  most  sumptuous  style. 

As  a  resort  for  invalids  our  climate  is  peculiarly  inviting. 
When  the  summer  comes,  many  citizens  will  be  fleeing  away 
for  a  few  weeks  from  the  sultry  beams  of  a  city  solstice,  and 
seeking  refreshment  and  repose   in   more  congenial  climes. 


TlIK    UKALTH   OF    MINNESOTA. 


237 


The  HmpiJ  lakes  of  Minnesota,  and  the  cool  and  sparkling 
spray  of  St.  Anthony's  falls,  should  no  doubt  attract  a  large 
number.     I  hope  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  our  friends 
living  in  the  cities  toward  the  southern  end  of  the  great  Mis- 
sissippi will  build  country-seats  in  our  vicinity.     There  is  no 
place  on  the  globe  more  healthy  or  more  beautiful  than  Minne- 
sota.   Her  prairies  are  studded  with  silvery  lakes  and  traversed 
by  pearly  streams ;  flowers  of  almost  every  variety  meet  the  eye. 
We  have  mineral  springs  equal  to  any  in  the  world ;  our  lakes 
abound  with  fish,  and  our  forests  and  prairies  furnish  ample 
amusement  for  the  sportsman.     Gentlemen  residing  in  New 
Orleans  can  come  here  by  a  quick  and  delightful  conveyance, 
and  bring  all  that  is  necessary  to  make  them  comfortable  du- 
ring the  summer  months,  and  at  a  trifling  expense.     For  a 
smal|  sum  of  money  they  can  purchase  a  few  acres  of  land  on 
the  river,  and  build  summer-cottages.     I  am  satisfied  they  will 
find  it  the  cheapest,  most  convenient,  and  pleasant  mode  of 
spending  their  summer  months.     Here  every  facility  will  soon 
be  offered  for  educating  their  children.     A  university  that  will 
vie  with  the  best  in  the  Union  has  been  liberally  endowed  by 
the  government.     But  a  short  time  will  elapse  before  many  of 
the  children  of  the  southern  valley  of  the  Mississippi  will  be 
sent  to  this  healthy  region  to  be  educated.     Let  them  come— 
they  will  be  cheerfully  welcomed  as  kindred  who  drink  with 
us  out  of  the  greatest  river  in  the  world ! 

Pleasure-seekers  will. find  Minnesota  a  joyous  Eden  during 
the  summer  months,  and  from  present  indications  myriads  of 
them  will  turn  their  steps  hithcrward  the  approaching  season. 
The  etiquette,  expensive  dress,  and  formality,  of  eastern  and 
southern  "  watering-places,"  &c.,  can  here  be  thrown  aside, 
and  men  and  women  both  look  and  act  just  as  God  intended 
they  should,  without  let  or  hinderance  from  anybody. 

There  was  living  at  Prairieville,  on  the  Minnesota  river, 
an  old  voyageur  by  the  name  of  Joseph  Montrieul,  who  is 
ninety-four  years  of  age.  Seventy-four  years  ago  he  came 
from  Montreal,  and  has  lived  ever  since  within  the  bounds  of 
^\hat  is  now  known  as  tli<'  Minnesota  territory. 
He  has  never  resided  but  among  the  Dakotas  except  when 


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MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    KKSOUltCKS. 


H 


he  made  a  journoy  to  tho  Tawiiocs  with  a  trader  by  the  name 
of  Campbcil,  tho  year  after  bin  arrival  from  Canada — that  is, 
seventy-thrco  years  ago.  A  very  strong  proof  of  his  honesty 
and  faithfulness  is,  that  during  upward  of  seventy  years  he  has 
lived  with  btit  tbree  or  four  employers,  in  tho  humble  capacity 
of  voyageur  and  laborer  about  the  trading-posts. 

Thirty  years  ago  ho  lived  with  Mr.  J.  B.  I'arribault,  of  Men- 
(b)ta,  who  resided  on  the  island  opposite  Fort  Snelling.  The 
island  was  then  well  and  beautifully  wooded.  On  it  they 
planted  corn  and  vegetables,  and  sowed  wheat,  all  of  which 
was  very  productive  ;  but  in  the  year  of  "  tho  high  water,"  as 
it  is  remembered  by  the  old  inhabitants,  all  the  buildings  were  ^ 
swept  away. 

With  tho  exception  of  that  year — after  which  it  appears  to 
have  been  abandoned  —  the  island  was  seldom  overflowed  to 
such  an  extent  as  has  been  the  case  of  late  years. 

The  old  man  says  "  ho  never  saw  tho  falls  of  St.  Anthony," 
and  boasts  of  it  with  something  of  the  same  feeling  which  the 
man  did  whose  only  claim  to  notoriety  was  that  he  had  never 
read  the  "  Waverley  novels."  Although  still  vigorous,  he  is 
quite  deaf,  and  one  of  his  eyes  is  much  dimmed ;  but  he  man- 
aged to  shoot  a  duck  last  fall,  and  said  that  "  he  hoped  to  kill 
a  number  in  the  spring."  In  his  young  days  he  is  said  to  have 
been  an  excellent  shot. 

The  accounts  he  relates  of  the  state  of  the  country  on  the 
Minnesota  river  seventy  years  ago  are  very  interesting.  The 
traders  on  tbat  river  tben  were  Colonel  Dixon,  at  Mendota; 
Campbell,  near  Little  llapids  ;  Eraser  (father  of  Jack  Fraser), 
at  Traverse  des  Sioux ;  two  brothers  of  the  name  of  Ilart,  and 
Mr.  Patterson,  at  a  place  now  known  as  Patterson's  llapids, 
forty  miles  below  Lac-qui-Parle.  Ho  seemed  to  think  that 
there  was  no  trading-post  higher  up,  but  further  inquiries  will, 
wo  think,  prove  that  there  were  trading-posts  near  the  sources 
of  the  "  St.  Peter's,"  as  the  Minnesota  was  then  called,  at  least 
one  hundred  years  ago. 

Long  subsequent  to  Montrieul's  first  arrival  at  Traverse  des 
Sioux,  there  were  thousands  of  buiTalo  in  that  neighborliood. 
They  were  even  sometimes  seen  on  the  prairies  in  the  vicinity 


COUBEUKS   DEU    BOIB. 


289 


i 


of  where  Fort  Snellliif^  now  stands.  The  land  wns  tlicn  ex- 
tremely rich  in  aninmlH  and  gunio  oi"  all  kinds,  but  yet  both 
the  traders  and  Indians  somefimos  suflered  great  privations  for 
want  of  food. 

The  fur-trade  engendered  a  peculiar  class  of  men  known  by 
the  appropriate  name  of  bush-rangers,  coureurs  dea  hois,  half- 
civilized  vagrants,  whose  chief  vocation  was  conducting  the 
canoe  of  the  traders  along  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  interior; 
many  of  tliem,  however,  shaking  loose  from  every  tie  of  blood 
and  kindred,  identified  themselves  with  the  Indians,  and  sank 
into  utter  barbarism.  In  many  a  squalid  camp  among  the  plains 
and  forests  of  the  west  the  traveller  Avould  have  encountered 
men  owning  the  blood  and  speaking  the  language  of  France, 
yet  in  their  wild  and  swarthy  visages  and  barbarous  costume 
seeming  more  akin  to  those  with  whom  thoy  had  cast  their 
lot.  The  renegade  of  civilization  caught  the  habits  and  im- 
bibed the  prejudices  of  his  chosen  associates.  He  loved  to 
decorate  his  long  hair  with  eagle-feathers,  to  make  his  face 
hideous  with  vermilion,  ochre,  and  soot ;  and  to  adorn  his 
greasy  hunting-frock  with  horse-hair  fringes.  His  dwelling,  if 
he  had  one,  was  a  wigwam.  He  lounged  on  a  bear-skin,  while 
his  squaw  boiled  his  venison  and  lighted  his  pipe.  In  hunt- 
ing, in  dancing,  in  singing,  in  taking  a  scalp,  he  rivalled  the 
genuine  Indian.  His  mind  was  tinctured  with  the  supersti- 
tions of  the  forest.  He  had  faith  in  the  magic  drum  of  the 
conjurer;  he  M'as  not  sure  that  a  thunder-cloud  could  not  be 
frightened  away  by  whistling  at  it  through  the  wing-bone  of 
an  eagle ;  he  carried  the  tail  of  a  rattlesnake  in  his  bullet- 
pouch  by  way  of  amulet,  and  he  placed  implicit  trust  in  the 
prophetic  truth  of  his  dreams.  This  class  of  men  is  not  yet 
extinct.  In  the  cheerless  wilds  beyond  the  northern  lakes,  or 
among  the  mountain  solitudes  of  the  distant  west,  they  may 
still  be  found,  unchanged  in  life  and  character  since  the  day 
when  Louis  the  Great  claimed  sovereignty  over  the  desert 
empire. 

Probably  the  world  has  never  produced  a  race  of  more  hardy, 
athletic  pedestrians  than  the  voyagexirs  and  trappers  who  range 
through  the  wild  regions  of  North  America,  between  the  great 


k  u 


,;,,i 


^,.^  'ii 


1^ 


240 


MINNR80TA.    AND    ITS    KES0UR0K8. 


lakes  and  the  I'acific  ocean.     TLe  nnwrlttcn  legends  of  their 
experience  of  border  and  savage  life,  and  of  their  perilous  ad- 
ventures, would,  if  written,  niak6  volnmes  of  stirring  romance. 
One  of  the  duties  performed  by  voyageurs  is  the  transportation 
of  baggage,  supplies,  and  canoes,  across  portages.     For  this 
purpose  they  use  the  "  portage-collar,"  which  is  a  strap  passing 
around  the  forehead,  attached  at  each  end  to  the  burden  or 
pack  to  be  carried,  which  is  also  partly  supported  upon  the 
back.     In   this  manner  a  voyageur  often  carries  (in  pjicks)  a 
barrel  of  flour  a  distance  of  five  or  six  miles.     Squaws  carry 
burdens  in  the  same  manner.     In  this  way  we  have  often  seen 
them  in   St.  Paul,  carrying  heavy  loads  of  cranberries,  or  of 
corn,  in  a  sack.     The  voyageur  often  finds  "  a  repose,"  that  is, 
something  to  place  his  burden  upon  while  he  rests,  every  three 
miles  in  crossing  a  portage.     This  mode  of  transporting  was 
not   only  common   among  trappers   and  voyageurs,  but  until 
lately  it  was  universal  among  the  Indians,  especially  the  Chip- 
pewas,  who,  until  recently,  had  few  if  any  horses.         I   saw 
in  St.  Paul,  not  long  ago,  Jack  Fraser,  of  whom  Captain  Mur- 
ryat  makes  mention  in  his  travels  in  the  northwest.     Jack  is 
a  wiry-looking  man,  aged  about  fifty-two  years,  the  son  of  a 
highland  Scotchman  by  an  Indian  mother,  and  one  of  the  most 
intrepid  of  the  Sioux  braves.     At  the  war-dance.  Jack  wears 
thirty -two  eagle-plumes,  each  plume  representing  a  scalp  taken. 
He  never  engages  in  the  medicine-dance,  or  any  of  the  Indian 
orgies  except  the  war-dance,  and  he  dresses  invariably  in  the 
fashion  of  the  whites,  although  he  has  a  strongly-marked  In- 
dian face.     He  is  a  nephew  of  Wakouta,  chief  of  the  Red- 
Wing  band  of  Sioux. 

The  prospects  for  builders  and  mechanics  are  certainly  in- 
viting. 

All  building  and  other  town  improvements  have  heretofore 
been  confined  principally  to  St.  Paul,  St.  Anthony,  and  Still- 
water.  This  season,  however,  there  will  be  a  very  great  de- 
mand for  mechanics  and  laborers  in  other  portions  of  the  terri- 
tory, and  there  is  no  doiabt  but  the  steamboats  will  be  perfectly 
crowded  after  the  opening  of  navigatioT).  The  towns  of  Ued 
Wing,     Ilasting-s,    Mendota,     Minneapolis,    Shakopee,    Winona, 


PROSPECT   FOR   MECHANICS. 


241 


So  Sueur,  Traverse  des  Sioux,  and  St.  Peters,  are  puj^ariDg 
for  a  vigorous  improvement,  and  will  give  employment  during 
the  summer  to  a  great  number  of  mechanics  and  laborers.  In 
fact,  there  is  no  lack  of  work,  and  the  industrious  can  bo  certain 
of  employment  as  has  been  said  before,  so  I  repeat,  that  if  when 
hero  he  will  only  put  himself  at  anything  ho  findeth  for  his  hand  to 
do  and  then  do  it,  he  cannot  fail  of  ultimate  success.  Remember 
this,  persevere,  and  do  not  permit  yourself  to  be  discouraged.  Con- 
nected with  the  improvements  in  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota,  may 
be  noticed  the  transportation  of  supplies  which  will  give 
employment  to  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  persons  during 
a  great  portion  of  the  summer  and  fall.  It  is  a  well-known 
fact,  that  until  the  Minnesota  river  is  improved  at  the  rapids, 
and  the  snags  taken  out  in  many  of  the  bends  in  the  river, 
steamboats,  in  ordinary  seasons,  can  not  navigate  the  Minne- 
sota above  the  rapids,  i^.ore  than  three  months  during  the  sum- 
mer. During  the  remainder  of  the  season  keel  and  flat  boats 
will  be  used  which  will  give  employment  to  a  great  number  of 
boatmen. 

At  the  Mississippi  Boom  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  per- 
sons are  employed,  exclufVe  of  thos»-  \ecessary  for  running 
rafts  of  logs  and  limiber  down  the  Mississippi.  The  booms  on 
the  St.  Croix,  Rum  river,  and  at  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and 
the  lumbering  business  of  the  St.  Croix,  require  some  three 
hundred  men.  As  many  more  will  be  wanted  on  the  govern- 
ment roads. 

In  addition  to  all  enumerated  above,  ten  thousand  persom 
are  required  to  raise  flour,  pork,  beans,  and  potatoes,  to  feed 
the  lumbermen,  mechanics,  laborers,  merchants,  troops,  Indians, 
and  loafers  of  the  territory. 

The  Indians'  days  of  residence  about  St.  Paul  are  numbered. 
Their  lands  are  all  purchased,  so  that  in  a  very  short  time  they 
will  take  up  their  line  of  march  in  the  direction  of  the  Rocky 
mountains;  and  the  forests  over  which  they  roamed,  the 
waters  by  which  they  dwelt,  will  know  of  them  no  more. 
Their  mausoleums  of  the  dead  will  be  trampled  under  foot  and 
forgotten,  and  not  a  monument  will  remain  to  record  the  his- 
tory of  a  great  nation  that  is  passing  away  for  ever.     A  feeling 

11 


1;  ti 


I    i/i 


''I 


'  'Ml 


SI  .    f 


!        ! 


I 


t    I 


I 


242 


MINNKyoTA    ANI>    ITH    UKH<)l!U(^rrM. 


of  comtnlHPintion  Ht(Milrt  over  ino  while  contcniplMliiifj  (lirir 
nctiinl  oMiidiMon.  Needy,  iniprovidiMit,  if^jnorant,  Hiiju'rHtijious. 
With  Honowl'iil  lienrts  tliey  hear  the  exuhiii}^  cry  oi'  (he  fnr- 
oif^ner,  that  *'  Westward  the  Htnr  of  empire  takes  its  way,"  and 
ns  the  hungry  crowd  of  mixed  nations  press  forward,  with 
ghiddened  hearts  at  the  prospeet  before  them,  with  this  trinm- 
])hant  motto  enihlnzoned  on  their  banners,  dispossessinfj^  and 
shovinp  onward  the  moody  savage  —  what  tears,  wliat  suflering, 
wliat  gh)()my  forebodings  of  the  future  —  what  home  attaeh- 
nients  broken  u])  forever,  h)ad  the  soul  of  the  helpless  ehild  of 
nature,  is  with  the  white  not  esteemed  a  matter  worthy  of 
instant  thought.  The  good  missionary  who  labors  for  thoir 
Bpiritual  good,  and  who  asks  no  homo  out  of  this  sterile  portion 
of  Christ's  vineyard,  takes  up  his  bible,  his  prayer-book  and 
cross,  to  follow  these  homeless  creatures  to  the  still  more  cheer- 
less regions  of  the  remote  north. 


CONCLUSION —A    VIbJoN. 


248 


ii    I 

i!?  I 


CUAPTER   XV. 
covc..,;8,oN-A    v,«,on-hc,.:m,   m   sr.  paul   twknty  vf.ars 

HKNO.:,  ALL    .,F    WHICJI    I    HAW.    AND    PART    OP    WHICH    WE    ALL 
EXPKCT   TO    HE. 

"  Comliiff  events  cast  their  shadows  before." 

"  I  would  recall  n  vision,  which  I  drenmod 
Porchance  in  Bleep—for  in  itself  a  thought— 
A  shuDboring  thouglit,  is  capable  of  years, 
And  curdles  a  long  life  into  one  ''our."— Byron. 

I  WAS  seated  witlmi  my  Btudy  during  a  Into  cold  and  stormy 
afternoon,  in  that  melancholy  portion  of  the  year- November. 
I  he  bla/ing  firo  leaped  and  crackled  joyously  upon  my  hearth 
in  pleasing  contrast  with  the  raging  storm  without.     Sitting 
in  my  old  arm-chair  I  watched  the  descending  snow-flakes- 
and  the  rapid  hurrying  to  and  fro  of  the  many  dashing  sleighs 
and  other  equipages ;  musing  the  while  upon  the  many  scenes 
of  hie  thus  constantly  presented  to  my  eyes,  and  moralizing 
upon  the  liopes,  the  fears,  and  the  future  of  the  busy  throng 
that  floated  by  so  rapidly.     From  musing,  I  soon  fell,  "  as  is 
my  custom  of  an  afternoon, '  into  a  pleasing  slurHber,  silent 
and  undisturbed  for  hours.     And  now,  while  sleeping  in  that 
comfortable  old  arm-chair,  all  of  a  sudden  my  fancy  poih.  yei 
the  following  "vision." 

Mcthought  that  time  had  shot  his  arrow  suddenly  forward 
some  twenty  years  and  odd,  and  in  manhood's  prime,  and  life 
and  health,  I  stood  upon  the  lofty  bluffs,  overlooking  the  great 
and  poi)u]ous  city  of  St.  Paul.  Beneath  and  around  me,  on 
every  side,  a  hundred  lofty  spires  glitterod  in  the  morning 
sunlight,  while  still  farther  in  the  distance  countless  habita- 


II 


;.!t 


'i      !' 


I 


■J  if 


."■y^. 


214 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITS    KESOUKCKS. 


?i    ■ 

i^'' 

c. 

j.k]k 

1 

1 

SK 

1 

m 

f  ■'■ 

tious  of  Iminble    pretensions,  suburban   cottages  and    lovely 
gardens  seemed  vying  in  a  eomnion  race  to  cover  all  tbe  plain, 
and  from  the  grassy  vale  and  shady  nook  looked  cheeringly 
up,  or  from  gentle  hill  slope,  or  clinging  to  the  steeper  sides  of 
the  semi-circular  bluffs,  looked  down  and  smiled.     The  sum- 
mits of  the  bluff's  were  crowned  with  the  residences  of  the 
merchant-princes  of  St.  Paul  —  the  homes  of  luxury,  taste, 
refinement,  ease,  and  elegance.     Just  below,  and  almost  at  the 
doors  of  these  merchant-princes,  a  hundred  richly-laden  boats, 
from  all  parts  of  the  upper  and  lower  Mississippi,  the  St.  Croix, 
iind  Minnesota,  lay  proudly  at  the  leveo,  loading  and  unload- 
ing freights,  while  the  song  of  the  laborer  reached  even  to  the 
bluff  whereon  I  stood.     Other  steanip'-g  and  sailing  craft  of 
every  size  were  constantly  arrivin^g      .i  departing,  or  passing 
to  and  fro,  while  ferry-boats  were  crossing  and  moving  ab'^nt 
in  all  directions.     From  opposite  to  Fort  Snelling  away  down 
to  Carver's  Cave,  the  city  stretched  her  snowy  front ;  and  then 
across  the  river  to  the  south,  and  away  off  over  the  bluffs  to 
the  north,  as  far  over  the  plain  as  the  eye  could  reach,  villages 
of  lesser  note,  the  rural  palace  and  the  princely  mansion,  with 
here  and   there  a  single  cottage,  with  lavish   and   benignant 
hand   Avere  strewn  along  the  vale.     City,  town,  and  hamlet, 
the  hill,  the  valley,  the  bluffs,  abnost  like  mountains,  and  the 
far-off  plain,  Avitli  the  mighty  IMissip'iippi  and  the  deep  blue  of 
the  far  oft"  Minnetonka,  were  befo    ;  me.     The  sky  above  me 
was  unobscured  by  a  vapor  — 

"So  cloudless,  clear,  and  purc-ly  beaiitifuT, 
Tiiat  '^od,  alone,  was  to  bo  seen  in  Heaven." 

And  from  the  crest  of  Arinpctonka's  wave,  on  zepherous  foot- 
steps Avaudered  to  my  lips  a  breeze  refreshing  and  sweet. 

It  was  morning.  The  sun  had  scarcely  cleared  the  horizon, 
and  already  every  street  and  avenue  of  the  city  was  crowded 
with  a  joyous  and  excited  population.  Men,  women,  and 
children,  in  gaudy  ai)parel — the  aged  and  the  youthful— all 
classes,  castes,  conditions,  and  comidexions  —  were  minclinc  in 
the  utmost  conf'iisioM.  Aiul  there  was  the  passing  to  and  fro 
of  scpiads  of  military  in  full  uniform ;  firemen  in  gay  shirts 


;!     I 


CONCLUSION A    VISION. 


2i5 


and  cnpf' ;  incinbcrs  of  Lcncvolent  ami  civic  societies,  in  rich 
regalia  and  insignia  of  their  several  orders  ;  officers  of  the 
army  and  navy,  sohliers,  policemen  with  badges  and  maces; 
marslials  on  horseback,  in  gaudy  sashes  and  rosettes ;  wliile 
squads  of  mounted  cavalry  and  lancers  were  cliarging  hither 
and  thither.  A  thousand  flags  and  banners  floated  over  the 
city,  and  from  the  boats  along  tl  o  levue  ;  and  the  flashing 
of  tinseled  iiniforms,  of  bayouets,  of  sword  and  lance,  of  flre- 
ciigines  and  gay  equipage  of  every  kind,  threw  back  the  sun- 
light. The  ceaseless  roll  of  drums,  and  the  clangor  of  martial 
music,  were  mingled  Avith  the  roar  of  rtillery,  which  from 
early  dawn  had  continued  to  peel  from  one  end  of  the  city  to 
the  other;  and  on  the  river,  and  from  St.  Anthony  and  Men- 
dota,  and  from  where  Fort  SneWiug  i/scd  to  staiid — the  lofty 
site  now  covered  Avith  a  growing  town  —  cannon  answered 
cannon,  and  in  tones  of  thunder  reverberated  from  bluff  to  bluff 
—  from  plain  to  plain,  and  from  shore  to  shore  —  dying  off  at 
length  toward  Lake  Pepin  to  the  south. 

It  was  the  Fourth  of  July,  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy- 
six  ^  and  on  that  day,  representatives  from  the  several  old 
Mississippi  vnlley  states,  from  Nebraska,  and  tbe  other  new 
states  and  territories  extending  w^cstward  to  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains ;  the  people  from  the  North,  too,  from  Pembina,  and  the 
old  Selkirk  settlement,  formerly  so  called  —  now  the  state  of 
Assiniboln  (pronounced  Assin-i-bwaAv),  and  even  from  old  Fort 
York,  on  Hudson  bay,  together  with  the  people  of  Minnesota, 
generally,  had  congregated  in  St.  Paul,  for  the  twofold  pur- 
pose of  celebrating  the  centennial  anniversary  of  American 
Independence,  and  to  witness  as  well  the  opening  of  the  great 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  railway,  from  Boston,  NeAV  York,  and 
Philadelphia,  via  St.  Paul,  to  Oregon  and  California,  its  ter- 
minus being  San  Francisco: 

In  connection  with  all  this  was  the  first  despatch,  to  be  sent 
in  w^ords  of  living  fire,  vpon  that  day,  along  the  wires  of  the 
Great  Britain  submarine,  and  North  American  telegraph  line, 
from  London,  via  the  states,  to  San  Francisco. 

The  full  time  for  the  consummation  of  a  mighty  and  glorious 
event  had  hnally  arrived,  which  for  twenty  years  had  been 


,   1 


2i6 


MINNESOTA    AND   ITS   i:ESOUlJCI-;8. 


anxiously  looked  for,  hoped  for,  sighed  for,  ay  died  for!     The 
hour  was  near  at  hand,  in  which  the  most  sanguine  expectations 
and  long-cherished  desires  of  the  civilized  world  were  about 
to  be  completely  realized  ;  and  a  great   "  national  highway," 
for  travel  and   commerce,  as  well  as  for  thought  and  intelli- 
gence, opened  and  established  from  the  rising  to  the  setting 
sun.     More  especially  was  it  a  consummation  which  Minnesota, 
.since  the  hour  when  her  first  constitution  had  been  given  her' 
the  third  of  March,  1849,  had  long  devoutly  wished.     The 
ratification  of  the  Sioux  treaties  in  18o2,  and  the  formation  of 
other  treaties    in    1860,  which    extinguished   the  Sioux  and 
Chippewa  titles  to  all  the  land  within  her  limits,  from  the 
Jhssouri  on  the  west  to  the  old  boundary  of  forty-nine  degrees 
to  the  north,  had  also  been  events  of  considerable  magnitude 
in  their  day,  and  afforded  great  joy  to  youthful  Minnesota. 
But  the  great  enterprise  was  now  com'  leted,  and  never  in  all 
her  history,  save  at  the  incorporation  of  the  "  Republic  of 
Mexico"  into  the  American  Union,  some  ten  years  previous 
or  the  annexation  of  "  Canada  and  Cuba,"  which  happened 
some  five  years  before,  St.  Paul  had  never  seen  such  a  day 
of  rejoicing,  ^ 

The  sun  had  scarcely  reached  the  zenith,  when  the  roar 
of  the  cannon,  the  sounds  of  martial  music,  and  the  approach 
of  an  immense  procession,  with  banners  floating  to  the  breeze, 
attracted  my  attention  far  up  the  river  to  the  sout^>west.  I 
turned,  and  beheld  a  scene  which  for  a  moment  rendered  me 
almost  delirious  with  excitement.  When  I  recovered  myself, 
the  pageant  had  api^roached  so  near,  passing  immediately  in 
full  view  of  the  eminence  on  which  I  lay,  as  to  enable  me  par- 
ticularly  to  survey  what  I  shall  now  attempt  to  describe. 

Spanning  the  mighty  Mississippi,  just  above  Wabashaw 
street,  was  a  splendid  suspension  bridge,  with  a  pier  upon  the 
sandy  island  in  the  stream,  and  a  magnificent  arch  on  either 
side.  From  Mendota  (now  a  town  stretching  its  summit  up 
around  Pilot  Knob),  down  along  the  bluffs  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river,  was  the  great  railway ;  extending  across  the 
river  by  a  double  track  some  twenty  ii^^i  apart,  and  tluMice, 


CONCLUSION  —  A   VISION. 


247 


tlu-oiighout  our  own  St.  Paul,  away  off  to  the  southeast  toward 
the  Atlantic  seaboard. 

Supported  on  each  hand  by  an  immense  escort,  composed 
01  our  entire  population,  came  the  "first  train  of  cars  from  San 
Francisco,"  the  departure  of  which  had  been  announced  here 
by  telegraph  a  short  time  previous. 

First  came  an  open  car,  or  platfrrm,  extending  across  from 
one  track  to  the  other,  richly  draped  and  ornamented  with 
banners  and  containing  a  band  of  fifty  musicians,  who  played 
Ilai    Columlnar     Next  came  two  splendid  locomotives,  one 
on  either  track,  moving  abreast.     On  the  one  upon  the  right, 
1  read  '^  Atlantic  r  on  that  upon  the  left,  "Paci/lc"     Over 
these,  extending  across  from  track  to  track,  and  for  three  hun- 
dred feet  m  the  rear,  was  a  continuous  platform,  supported 
on  wheels,  covered  with  rich  and  gorgeous  tapestry,  forming 
upon  the  most    magnificent   scale  "  a  grand  triumphal  car." 
Immediately  m  front,  on  the  right  and  left  of  this  platform, 
arose  two  columns  of  beautiful  proportions,  about  thirty  feet 
in  height,  and  of  alabaster  whiteness.     On  the  one    I  read 
''  T/teUmonr  on  the  other,  "  The  Constitution."     From  the 
tops  of  these  columns,  the  intervening  space  was  spanned  by 
an  arch   composed  of  the  "  coat  of  arms"  of  the  several  states 
of    he  Union,  carved  in  bas-relief  on  So,  >rate  blocks  of  marble  : 
and  upon  the  keystone  of  the  arch,  I  read  the  familiar  motto 
E  Plurzhns   UnumJ'      On  this  point   perched  an   immense 
spread  eag  e,  g  ittering  with  gold,  and  holding  in  his  beak  a 
hkeness  of  -rhe  Father  of  his  Country,"  in  a  plain  gold 
setting,  enwreathed  with  laurel;  while  high  abovefand  over 
all,  floated  the  "  star-spangled  banner."     Immediately  under 
the  arch  was  an  altar  of  pure  white,  upon  which  I  read  "  Free- 
dom     and  from   the  top  of  the  altar  arose  a  square  shaft  of 
M-lHte.some  four  or  five  feet  in  height,  and  on  the  several  sides 
of  which   I  read,  "Peace,  Prosperity,   Happiness,"  "Truth, 
Justice,    Lquality,"  "  Education,   Arts,    Commerce,"    "  Affri- 
culture,  Manufactures,  Mines."     On  the  top  of  this  shaft  rested 
a  vase  of  pure  gold,  bearing  the  inscription,  "  California  and 
nnesota,  the  twin  sisters,  are  this  dav  in,l,-ccnl„i.i„  ^ound 


Mi 


together  by  an  iron  band."     In  this 


i  day  indissolubly 

was  contained  water  from 


1 

I 


I 


m 


i  s  ki>       11' 


2i8 


MINNESOTA    AND    ITB    KESOUKCES. 


tlie  rnclfic  ocean.  On  eltlicr  side  of  this  stood  a  Leautiful 
young  woman,  in  tlie  bloom  of  liealtli,  dressed  in  muslin  robes 
of  snowy  whiteness,  trimmed  with  gold  and  evergreens,  and 
bearing  appropriate  emblems,  typical  of  the  genius  of  •'  Peace" 
and  "  Commerce."  Immediately  in  the  rear  of  these  a  figure, 
representing  Neptune  with  his  trident,  was  standing  in  a  rich 
and  gorgeous  chariot  drawn  by  dolphins;  and  falling  from 
the  rear  of  the  chariot,  and  strewn  over  the  entire  length  of 
the  great  platform,  were  shells  and  precious  stones,  and  gold 
and  silver  ores. 

This  was  to  typify  that  our  advancement  in  the  arts  and  sci- 
ences had  induced  even  the  "  god  of  the  ocean"  to  forsake  his 
native  element,  and,  availing  himself  of  human  skill,  to  take 
the  overland  route  from  one  part  of  his  dominions  to  another; 
and,  farther,  that  the  commerce  of  the  seas  would  hencefor- 
ward take  this  route;  while  the  shells  and  precious  stones  fal- 
ling ^-om  his  chariot  seemed  to  remind  us  that  this  great  \m- 
dertaking  was  destined  to  be  literally  paved  with  the  riches 
of  the  deep. 

Immediately  in  the  rear  of  this  group,  arranged  on  either 
side  of  the  platform,  were  separate  pedestals,  four  feet  six 
inches  in  height  by  three  feet  square,  placed  at  a  distance  of 
nearly  six  feet  apart,  and  extending  in  parallel  rows  over  two 
liundred  feet  in  the  rear.  These  pedestals  were  fifty  in  number, 
twenty-five  on  either  hand,  and  were  emblematical  of  the 
"  fifty  free  and  independent  states  of  the  American  Union," 
which  included  the  Canadas  on  the  north  to  the  isthmus  of 
Darien  on  the  south,  and  from  Cuba  in  the  southeast  to  the 
Russian  settlements  in  the  northwest,  from  the  equator  to  the 
frozen  regions.  Upon  each  of  the'r-e  pedestals  I  read  the  name 
of  a  state  ;  and  on  the  tops,  standing  erect,  were  fifty  beautiful 
young  women,  between  the  ages  of  eighteen  and  twenty  years, 
in  the  full  bloom  of  health  and  womanhood.  These  were 
dressed  in  flowing  drnpcry  of  white,  adorned  with  roses,  and 
on  the  head  each  wore  a  crimson-velvet  cap,  ornamented  with 
a  single  star  of  gold.  Each  bore  an  emblem  (vegetable,  min- 
eral, or  artificial)  of  her  particular  state,  wliilc  an  endless  chain 
of  roses  and  orange-flowers,  in  graceful  festoons,  extended  from 


CONCLUSION  —  A   VISION. 


249 


hand  to  hand,  and  was  emhlematical  of  the  common  interests 
which  unite  us  as  a  people.  The  blue  eyes  and  fair  com- 
plexions of  the  north  in  union,  though  in  contrast,  with  the 
dark  eyes  and  olive  complexions  of  the  south.  Immediately 
in  the  rear  of  these,  and  occupying  the  remaining  portion  of 
the  "  car  triumphal,"  was  the  president  of  the  United  States, 
himself  a  citizen  of  Minnesota,  members  of  the  cabinet  and 
heads  of  departments,  deputations  of  members  from  both  houses 
of  Congress,  foreign  ministers  resident  at  Washington,  execu- 
tive officers  of  several  of  the  Pacific  states  (all  returning  from 
an  excursion  trip  from  Washington  to  San  Francisco) ;  and 
lastly  came  a  delegation  of  aborigines,  consisting  of  the  chiefs 
and  headmen  of  the  nations  of  the  plains.  Then  came  another 
detached  car,  similar  to  that  described  in  the  first  instance, 
containing  a  band  of  fifty  musicians,  playing  the  "  Star-span- 
gled Banner." 

Thus  appointed  and  arranged,  the  train  arrived  opposite  to 
the  businesi)  centre  of  the  city,  advanced  upon  the  bridge,  and 
halted.  Then  a  Christian  minister  (the  Rev.  E.  D.  Neill,  I 
think),  accompanied  by  the  president  and  secretary  of  state, 
with  heads  uncovered,  proceeded  from  the  extreme  rear  through 
the  long  avenue  of  young  women  representing  the  several 
states ;  and  as  they  passed  along,  each  successive  state  stood 
with  liead  iincovered,  in  token  at  once  of  their  respect  for  reli- 
gion and  their  fidelity  to  the  general  government.  This  move- 
ment served  also  as  a  signal  for  the  multitude  to  follow  suit, 
and  who  accordingly  acquiesced  during  the  following  ceremo- 
nies : — 

Arrived  in  front  of  the  triumphal  arch,  the  minister  briefly 
invoked  the  blessings  of  Jehovah  upon  the  great  enterprise 
before  them,  and  for  the  welfare  of  the  country  at  large.  Ho 
thfcii  stepped  aside,  and  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  nation  hav- 
ing closed  the  discoursive  part  of  the  ceremonies  with  a  few 
appropriate  remarks,  a  signal  was  given,  whereupon  the  sisters 
"  Peace"  and  "  Commerce"  gracefully  inverted  the  "  golden 
vase,"  and  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  ocean  were  mingled  with 
the  waters  of  the  mighty  Mississippi.  The  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco Avas  wedded  with  the  Atlantic  and  gulf  of  Mexico,  and 

n* 


i!-;:! 


260 


MINNESOTA   AND   ITS   KKSOU liGl-:S. 


the  bright  drops  of  the  Sacramento  were  mingled  with  and 
flowed  with  those  of  the  "  Father  of  Running  Waters." 

At  that  instant  another  immense  train  arrived  in  fifty  hours 
from  New  Orleans,  sixty  from  the  Rio  Grande,  and  four  days 
froin  the  city  of  Mexico.  It  contained  a  pleasure-party,  num- 
bering by  thousands.  Among  them  were  the  wealthy  planters, 
tlieir  wives,  and  little  ones — the  dark-skinned  Creole  gentle- 
men and  ladies  —  together  with  the  dark-eyed  senoritas  and 
gayly-dressed  caballeros  from  the  old  halls  of  the  Montezumas. 
They  were  coming  to  spend  a  few  weeks  amidst  the  noise  and 
spray  of  the  "  Little  falls,"  or  Minne-ha-ha,  and  of  our  great 
St.  Antholl3^  The  eastern  train  from  I'hiludclphia,  New  York, 
and  Boston,  and  another  from  Lake  Superior,  and  still  another 
from  Pembina  and  Assiniboin,  near  Lake  Winni})eg,  also  came 
rattling  in,  alive  with  human  freight  from  the  east,  the  north, 
and  northeast. 

Then  the  mighty  throng  of  assembled  thousands  raised  a  loud 
hosannah,  and  methought  the  chorus  of  their  mighty  voices  re- 
sounded adown  the  flowing  stream,  and  over  the  gulf  and  broad 
Atlantic,  and  then  re-echoed  across  Europe's  peopled  surface 
with  redoubled  force,  till  in  the  wilds  of  Russia  it  reached  the 
last  and  only  home  of  the  despot  —  the  descendant  of  the  Nicho- 
las of  1853  —  who  had  long  since  laid  mouldering  in  a  tyrant's 
grave.  Then  did  the  heart  of  the  last  of  the  line  of  kings  and 
emperors  which  this  fair  earth  shall  ever  witness,  grow  faint 
within  him,  as  he  saw  his  inevitable  doom  portrayed  as  plain  as 
the  "  handwriting  upon  the  wall,"  and  heard  his  death-knell  pro- 
claimed in  tones  of  might  and  wrath,  which  told  him  that  an 
avenging  God  was  nigh  !  Ay,  he  listened,  while  the  pallor  of 
decvth  Jtole  over  his  guilty  features,  and  the  craven-hearted 
usurper  of  the  rights  of  man,  and  violator  of  all  his  Maker's 
laws,  did  tremble  for  very  fear — ay,  trembled  like  an  aspen- 
leaf,  as  he  heard  the  voices  of  the  mighty  host  exultingly  jubi- 
late on  that  "  centennial  anniversary"  of  a  nation's  birth-day 
—  the  greatest  nation,  too,  which  old  Time  and  events  have 
yet  given  to  the  world,  its  population  now  being  sixty  millions. 

Then  rose  the  ;  erf,  the  Cossack,  and  all  tlic  republicans  of 
Europe,  led  on  by  the  aged  heroes  Kossuth  and  Mazzini,  and 


fill 


CONCLUSION  —  A    VISION. 


251 


a  host  of  otliers,  and  struck  a  tretnondous  and  final  Idow  for 
freedom  —  the  goddess  of  Liberty  flitting  and  hovciing  over 
the  scene  —  until  at  length  a  loi  ,1,  triumphant  shout  came 
ringing  hack  across  the  ocean  and  gulf,  and  up  the  noble  river 
to  the  spot  where  the  multitudinous  host  were  still  pouring 
forth  their  anthems  of  praise  to  the  God  of  hosts — proclaim- 
ing to  them  that  the  final  victory  between  Liberty  and  Despo- 
tism had  been  fairly  won,  and  that  Tyranny  had  sunk  his  fright- 
ful head  amidst  ■•  perfect  cataract  of  hiood.  The  prediction  of 
Napoleon  had  been  verified  in  one  sense  —  and,  in  1876,  all 

Europe  was  at  last  pkpublican Louis  Napoleon  had  long 

since  sunk  into  insignificance,  oblivion,  and  contempt;  and 
poor,  unhappy  T  ance,  now  so  no  more,  had  become  a  true 
republic. 

At  that  instant,  the  ceu  monies  being  over,  amid  the  roll  of 
drums,  and  the  clangor  of  martial  music,  the  discharge  of  mus- 
kets, the  roar  of  artillery,  and  the  deafening  huzzas  of  an  ex- 
cited and  countless  multitude  on  the  land,  upon  the  bridge, 
and  upon  the  water  btiieath  —  the  train  moved  on  toward  the 
eastern  seaboard,  and  I  aicoke  from  my  dream. 


luiii:' 


,  .(I 
'It-.ii 

It*-"  ;|f 


f^ 


I 


rfOT 


CAMP-FIK]-:  SKETCHES, 


OB 


rfOTES  OF  A  TRIP  FROM  ST  PAUL  TO  PEMBINA  AND  SELKIRK 
SETTLEMENT  ON  THE  RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH; 


TO    WHICH    ARE    APPENDED 


A  DESCRIPTION  OF  PRINCE  RUPERT'8  LAND,  ETC. 


m 

';iiir 


im 


iV\ 


1 


!(;#.' 


NOTE. 


Thk  olyoct  of  the  expedition  niirrated  in  the  fallowing  pages  wag  to  Ibmi  a 
treaty  with  the  Red  Lak.*  nn.l  l>,.,„l,ina  hands  i.f  Chippewa  Indians  for  their 
country  lying  in  the  vaiiey  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  and  south  of  tlio 
British  Hne.  Governor  Ram8.>y  was  appointed  commissioner  to  treat  with 
them,  and  Dr.  Thumas  Foster  appointed  secretary.  The  treaty  wn«  formed, 
but  WM  aiterworrt  rejected  l)y  the  United  States  senate. 


2S< 


SKETCHES  BY  A  CAMP-FIRE, 


CHAPTER  I. 


THE   OUTWARD    MARCH. 


is  tii.l 


Our  party  consisted  of  the  following  persons,  viz. :  Governor 
Ramsey,  Hugh  Tyler,  Dr.  Foster,  Rev.  John  Black,  of  Mon- 
treal, J.  M.  Lord,  F.  Brown,  Pierre  Bottineau,  Joseph  Course- 
role,  and  myself.  Our  escort  consisted  of  twenty-five  drajroons 
from  Fort  Snelling,  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Corley,  and  ac- 
companied by  six  two-horse  baggage-wagons ;  our  own  bag- 
gage and  provisions  being  carried  on  light  Red-river  carts, 
with  eight  French-Canadian  and  half-breed  drivers.  In  num- 
ber we  comprised  about  fifty  souls  in  all. 

A  portion  of  the  civil  party  took  the  steamboat  "  Governor 
Ramsey,"  at  St.  Anthony,  on  Monday,  August  18,  1851,  and 
proceeded  to  the  Thousand  isles,  below  Sauk  rapids,  where  the 
balance  of  the  party,  with  the  horses,  carts,  and  a  light  riding- 
wagon,  awaited  their  arrival.  After  uniting,  we  all  proceeded 
on  to  Russell's,  above  Sauk  rapids,  and  on  Wednesday  crossed 
the  Mississippi,  and  camped  the  first  night  about  two  miles 
west,  in  the  Sauk  river  valley. 

Thursday,  21st.  —  Fine,  clear,  cool  day.  We  struck  tents 
and  were  away  early;  rode  fifteen  miles  over  prairie,  and 
along  the  valley  of  Sauk  river,  bordered  on  either  side  with 
thick  woods,  and  interspersed  here  and  there  with  strips  of 


I 


250 


SKK'KMIKS    I5V    A    rAMI'UKK 


won.llaiid  and  n  thick  nndn-f^M-owth  of  Lnslies.  Tl.ni  i.nssod 
oy<>r  the  worst  \nvvv.  of  nuul  hvtwvvu  Sunk  nipids  and  J'otn- 
Mna.     'J'lu!  dragoons  went  busy  for  Hovcral  liours  in  r«'i)airiiM' 


it  for  thr  paasaf-e  of  tlir  tcnins.     It 


w 


nbout  (U'ty  yards  in  width,  and  covered  by  a  bad 


as  a  j)ieco  of  swampland, 


corUur 


road 


oy 


'Vuni'.i:,  V.  ]\r.  — IVoceodcd  on  thror  miles,  and  found  tlio 
dni-ooMs  (Micamped  for  the  nip^ht  at  another  bad  crossing  of 
swaMip-lan.l,  near  a  creek.  It  took  them  several  horns  to  re- 
pair It  with  bushes,  grass,  <fec.  Encamped  near  hy  also,  to 
await  our  turn  to-niovrow.  Our  r.arch  to-day  was  eighteen 
miles. 

FiMDAY,  AuGCST  22.  — Clear,  cool,  and  pleasant.  The  weath- 
er IS  now  delightlul  — the  sun  quite  hot  at  noonday,  and  the 
nights  cool  and  bracing.  Up  at  daylight,  and  away  on  our 
nmrch  at  seven,  A.  M.     The  dragoons  oil'  before  us. 

After  proceeding  two  miles,  we  crossed  Sauk  river,  passing 
over  to  the  southwest  side.     We  found  a  good  ford,  about  four 
feet  deep,  the  bottom  being  gravelly  with  a  few  boulders.     The 
liills  are  very  high,  and  skirted   with  heavy  timber,  on   the 
right  hank.     We  then  emerged  on  to  a  beautiful  rolling  i)rairie 
extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach;  bordered  by  tin.ber, 
stretching  in  belts  on  either  side;  that  to  the  right  bordering 
on  Sauk  river,  and  bearing  away  off  to  the  northwest.     Wo 
Eoon  came  to  a  swampy  place,  where  the  dragoons  mired  their 
horses.     Grass  was  then  mowed,  a  causeway  made,  the  horses 
crossed  on  it,  and  the  heavy  teams  drawn  over  by  ropes     Wo 
soon  after  discovered  a  he-bear,  "loping"  off  over  the  prairie 
nttull  speed.     Several  of  us  gave  chase  at  once,  and  after  pur- 
suing him  through  swamps  and  marshes  for  half  an  hour,  and 
wmuuhng  him   severely,  the  dragoons  came  up,  surrounded 
hnn,  and  finished  the  job  by  killing  him  with  pistol-balls. 
_Iy ler,  m  a  two-horse  wagon,  joined  us  in  the  chase,  and  came 
m  just  at  the  death. 

We  halted  at  noon,  and  took  a  cold  bite  and  a  cup  of  tea. 
In  the  afternoon  we  rode  on  some  twelve  miles  farther,  and 
encamped  m  some  brush  and  timber,  where  the  water  was  bad 
and  mosquitoes  worse.     The  country  passed  over  to-day  was 


lit 


'IflK    OUTWARD   MARCH. 


257 


roliijif*  prairie,  thickly  intorflpcrscd  with  marshes  and  flmall, 
sluf^f^isli  Htreams,  *iu'  'iTMnul  nscoiulitif?  for  fifteen  mihis,  then 
(Icscendinp^  to  tij  car  ^»  five  miles.  We  found  it  a  very  hard 
march,  with  tha  boni--  'lase,  the  bad  roads,  and  much  detention 
in  i)aR.un{;  ovor  ilu  fw  itrps  and  marshes. 

SA'niiii)AV,  ?'{d. —  t?  ino,  clear  morning.  Up,  as  usiial,  at  day- 
iij^lit;  hreakfa8*  n  m  tea  and  herring,  and  supped  lawt  niglit 
on  herring  and  tea — rather  hard  living.  Dr.  i^'oster,  on  heing 
asked  at  noon  yesterday  if  ho  would  have  a  piece  of  the  tieck 
of  a  cold  goose,  replied,  "Yes,  sir-ee,  it  is  ncc/c  or  nothing — of 
course  I  will !"  Wo  to-day  rode  over  tho  rolling  prairie,  full 
of  strips  of  marsh,  when,  alter  a  march  of  ten  miles,  we  camo 
to  an  almost  impassable  swamp.  Wo  crossed  with  some  diflS- 
culty,  by  pulling  the  carts  and  horses  across  by  ropes,  during 
which  tho  Ilev.  Mr.  Black  and  1  completely  mired  our  ponies, 
and  came  near  going  with  them  to  tho  bottom,  if  there  was 
any.  After  this,  we  took  Bt  cup  of  tea  to  refresh  ourselves ; 
proceeded  on  twelve  miles  farther,  then  encamped  on  the  banks 
of  a  lake,  where  we  had  fine  spring- water,  and  altogether  the 
best  camping-place  we  have  yet  had,  the  situation  and  scenery 
around  being  very  beautiful.  The  ca.ts  arrived  at  sunset;  we 
then  erected  tents,  cooked  and  ate  suppe.  after  night,  amid 
hosts  of  mosquitoes,  which  were  finally  driven  oflF  by  a  strong 
southwest  breeze. 

Sunday,  24th. — Cloudy  and  cool,  with  rain  in  the  morning, 
with  thunder  and  lightning.  All  hands  busy  fixing  tents  more 
securely,  digging  trenches  around  to  drain  off  the  falling  water,- 
&c.  Being  Sunday,  we  remauied  in  camp  all  day.  Last  night 
four  of  our  horses  broke  their  lariats  and  ran  homeward  at 
the  top  of  their  speed,  but  were  caught,  most  fortunately  for 
us,  by  the  dragoons,  at  their  camp  twelve  miles  behind  us, 
Had  they  not  been  there,  we  should  have  been  obliged  to 
have  foiloAved  the  beasts  clear  back  to  Sauk  rapids,  ere  we 
could  have  overtaken  them. 

To-day,  our  French-Canadians  and  half-breeds,  who  have 
charge  of  the  provision  and  baggage-carts,  have  been  shooting 
pigeons,  ducks,  S>ic.,  also  making  new  cart-axles;  and  the 
day  has  not  seemed  much  like  Sunday.     Yesterday  afternoou, 


lift  I 


1'  It 


•if' 


./Wfc.- ;  ♦  "«i»;;  .1. 


268 


SKIlTCIiKh    ItV    A    CAMI'-I'IKK. 


V'liilo,  Hcvcral  ol'  us  were  ridinpf  on  alioad,  wo  started  up  a 
filuink  aloii},^  tli<r  road,  and  iniiiiodiatcly  f^avo  cliaso,  avIkmi 
Biich  slicing  iind  dodging,  to  kcoj)  to  AvindAvnrd  of  tlio  bojist, 
wuH  never  s(mmi  l)(>iore.  AVe  nearly  rolled  oft'  our  horses  with 
laughter.  Now  came  the  doctor,  sidling  up  very  cautiously, 
nnd  iind  two  shots  with  a  revolver,  then  beat  a  precii)ita(e 
retreat  as  the  skunk  iired  at  him.  Lo-1  then  pranced  uji  on 
Billy,  ana  iired  one  shot  at  the  s])ot  where  it  smelt  the  loudest, 
then  turned  tail,  too,  and  lied.  Cabou  finally  despatched  the 
varmint  with  a  tcmiahawk. 

]\l()Ni)Av,  2r>th. — Up  and  away  early  ;  once  more  uj)on  the 
road  ;  had  a  very  fine  ride  oF  about  Iburteen  miles  to  White 
Jiear  lake,  as  it  is  called,  from  tho,  fact  of  white  bear  be- 
ing so  plenty,  perlia])s.  This  is  a  beautiful  lake,  eight  miles 
long  and  several  wide;  the  banks  of  woodland  and  rolling 
l)rairie.  We  halted  on  the  north  shore,  about  one  mile  dis- 
tant, f  )i-  several  hours.  Dined  on  roast  skunk  (not  the  one 
killed  on  Saturday,  though),  ducks,  and  prairie-hens,  ham, 
pork,  Siv.  ^  Some  of  the  party  are  very  fond  of  skunk,  either 
roasted,  iVied,  oi  stewed,  and  attribute  tho  peculiar  smell  of 
the  meat  to  the  facv  that  the  animal  lives  on  garlic  — a  very 
garlicky  explanation  ! 

In  the  afternoon  we  rode  to  Tike  lake,  twelve  miles  farther ; 
we  renclK'd  if  at  f  .indown,  and  fouml  a  very  beautiful  spot,  in- 
deed, and  heavily  wooded  around  a  })ortion  of  its  banks.  The 
lake  is  full  of  J'ike  iish,  hence  its  name,  which  was  given  to  it 
by  ('a])taia  J'ope.  The  dragoons  are  encamped  quite  near  us, 
having  been  ahead  all  day.  IVIosquiloes  are  very  bad,  al- 
though the  weather  is  quite  cold  and  bracing.  The  eountry 
])assed  ovn-  to-day  was  a  rolling  prairie,  with  small  streams 
of  water  running  through  the  ra  .  ines ;  all  of  which  aro  tribu- 
tary to  the  i^linnesota.  To-night  our  carts  failed  to  reach  us, 
and  remained  about  four  uiiles  bcliind.  Fortunately,  Brown 
came  riding  up  at  dark  and  informed  us  of  the  fact,  and  also 
brought  two  wild  geese  and  some  ju-airie-hens  along.  Tho 
latter  and  one  gt)ose  were  roasted,  as  we  sat  huddling  round 
the  tires  (for  the  evening  air  was  cold),  and  were  devoured 
with  great  gusto;  a  little  boiled  ham,  salt,  and  liard  bread, 


5 


THK  oi;t\vakd  MAUOir. 


259 


vere  ol.tniiictl  iVoni  tho  tIrnp;ooiis,  wliicli  ;h1(1o,1  fuMitinnal 
zest  to  tlic  c.'iinp-lire  meal.  Some  of  us  tliou  l.ctook  omscIvcH 
to  tlio  (Irn-oon  cami),  fiiul  slojit  in  tents;  the  ivst  (li.sposcd 
tlieniHi^lves  v.iomid  tlie  iire,  and  in  tlio  cfirria^'e,  and  so  ptisHed 
the  ni-lit,  Dr.  Foster,  for  one,  half  frozen..  And  this  is  life 
upon  ti.e  prairie;  ri-ht  ready  and  willi.ifr  are  we  to  make  tho 
licKt  of  everjthin{,s  .•uid  suit  ourselves  to  circtinistances. 

TuKSOAV,  2Gth.— Up  early  and   l.reakfasted   uilh    the   dra- 
goons, on  a  enj)  of  eofUM',  and  piece  of  hard  hre.ad.     The  niorn- 
ni},'  very  c(dd   i\n'  the  season.     Overcoats  necessary,  and  all 
hands  sitting  around  the  tires.     Wind  east,  and  very  fresh  ;  n 
fiiio,  hracing  morning,  the  hcst  for  travelling  we  have  yet  had. 
The  carls  soon   arrived   and   jiassed    on   ahead,  and   at  eight, 
A.  M.,  we    followed,   and   after   a   fine  ri(h^   of  t(!n  miles,  \ve 
.•in-ived    at   KIk    lake,   and    stopped   to    feed    and    dine    upon 
(he    j.rettiest    spot    we    have    yet    seen.     It    was    upon    the 
western    hank    of   the   lake,    upon    a    knoll,  high    ahove    tho 
water,    the     hanks    of    the    lake    heing    high    and     covered 
with  a  skirt  of   woodland;  tho  waters,  agitated  hy  a  strong 
hrecze,  rolling  wildly   helow.     This  lake  is  some  two  miles 
long,  and  full  of  headlands,  and  small  ish-s  all  heavily  tim- 
hcred.     A  nu)st  charming  sj)ot  for  a  residence  when  the  coini- 
try  becomes  once  settled  ;  at  ])resent  the  whole  place  is  wihl 
and  beautiful.     Since  writing  the  above,  the  rest  of  our  party 
have  arrived,  and  I  lind  it  is  not  "Elk"  lake,  Init  one  new  to 
all  the  party,  and  to  us  nameless.     Governor  Itamsey,  there- 
fore, called  it  Lak  '  Filhnorc,  in  honor  of  the  president;  (juite 
a  compliment,  too,  by-the-hy,  considering  thai  it  is  much  the 
tinest  of  the  kind  w(i  have  yet  seen.     We  had  a  very  good 
dinner  to-day,  consisting  of  bouillon,  made  of  geese,  du(  ks,  &c., 
with  ham,  pork,  coffee,  bread  and  butter,  &c.     This  afternoon 
we  pursued  a  very  circuitous  road  over  a  more  rough  and  rol- 
ling country  than  we  have  yet  passed,  broken  by  deep  ravines 
••Hid  fidl  of  lakes,  ponds,  &c.     Somo  of  the  lakes  were  very 
beautiful  ;  our  road  passed  over  the  outlet  of  one  (.f  them  at 
its  mouth,  where  it  poured  over  the  rocky  bottom  and  formed 
a  creek  thirty  feet  in  width.     At  sundown  we  reached  tho 
banks  of  u  large  creek,  or  perhaps  of  tho  Chii)pewa  river,  and 


I 


r 


r    I 


260 


SKETCHES   BY    A   CAMl'-FIUE, 


i 


after  crossing  found  tbo  dragoons  encamped  on  the  open 
prairie,  on  the  western  bank.  "VVc  also  camped  near  them, 
and  had  wood  and  good  wat^r  plenty.  Our  march  to-day 
was  about  twenty  miles,  though  so  circuitous  that  I  doubt  if 
we  made  more  than  ten  miles  on  our  regular  course.  The  stream 
upon  M'hich  we  are  encamped  is  a  very  rapid  one,  and  flows 
over  a  rocky  bed  of  boulders. 

Wednesday,  27th. — Cool,  cloudy,  and  quite  cold  early  in 
the  morning ;  fine  weather  for  travelling.  Up  at  daylight, 
and  away  upon  our  march  at  half-past  five,  one  hoin-  earlier 
than  our  earliest  start  heretofore.  Rode  about  ten  miles  over 
an  elevated  prairie,  full,  as  usual,  of  lakes  and  ])oiuls ;  crossed 
a  stream  about  sixty  feet  in  width  (I'otato  river),  and  stopped 
for  oiu-  dinner  on  the  banks  of  a  fine  lake,  partly  wooded  on 
its  shores,  Avith  a  gravel  bottom.  After  a  rest  of  several  hours 
wo  proceeded  on  live  miles,  and  found  the  dragoons  encamped 
on  the  bank  of  another  iine  lake,  the  shores  well  wooded.  As 
it  was  but  four,  1*.  'M.,  we  pressed  on  some  five  miles  farther,  ma- 
king twenty-five  miles  march  to-d;iy  ;  tlieu  camped  on  the 
prairie  ;  no  wood  in  sight ;  carried  enough  on  llie  carts  for  the 
getting  of  supper  and  breakfast.  A  ])ond  full  of  dirty,  dark 
grass  was  near  by,  out  of  which  wo  got  our  water.  Two  of 
our  party  brought  in  a  large  quantity  of  geese,  ducks,  and 
prairie  fowls,  to  the  camp,  to-night.  Indeed,  wild  game  of  the 
feathered  kind  is  getting  to  be  a  drug  upon  our  hands,  as  we 
get  more  daily  than  we  can  use.  Tiic  country  we  passed  over 
to-day  was  an  elevated  plain  for  the  most  part,  with  less  Avood- 
land  and  fewer  lakes,  and  the  growth  more  even  and  of  a 
poorer  quality  than  that  below.  Wo  are  now  passing  on  to 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  head  waters  of  the  lied,  Min- 
nesota, and  ]\Iississippi  rivers. 

Thuhsday,  2Stli. — Cloudy  and  cold  in  the  morning;  very 
unpleasant,  witli  slight  rain  ;  warmer  in  the  afternoon,  with 
thunder  and  lightning.  Wind  southeast  to  southwest.  Up 
at  daylight,  and  upon  our  march  at  six,  A.  M.  Rode  some  ten 
n-.iles  over  a  flat,  dry,  and  very  uninteresting  country,  destitute 
of  lakes  .uid  the  grass  dry  and  in  some  places  already  burned 
off,  with  stagnant  ponds  and  a  sluggish  creek,  at  which  wo 


THE    OUTWARD   MAllUH. 


261 


8to]){)(>a  to  dine.  We  could  procure  no  wood,  save  wliat  we 
carried  with  us,  and  the  water  was  also  very  had.  At  noon 
we  started  on  again;  the  country  continued  hare  and  flat, 
with  no  timher  in  sight,  till  we  approached  the  Sioux  ^Wood 
river,  where  wo  arrived  at  four,  P.M.,  after  a  march  of  twenty 
miles,  and  one  hundred  and  forty  from  Sauk  rapids. 

The  Bois  dcs  Sioux  is  a  stream  ahout  thirty  miles  in  length, 
and  flows  from  Lac  Traverse  into  Red  river,  hy  a  course  due 
north.  We  crossed  about  four  miles  above  its  mouth,  where  it 
was  fifty  yards  in  width,  and  four  and  a  half  feet  deep,  its 
course  beingv  very  crooked.  We  camped  on  its  bank,  along- 
side the  dragoons,  all  hurry  and  bustle  in  the  midst  of  a  gust; 
supped  on  soup  made  of  two  Avild  geese,  with  onions,  potatoes', 
and  condiments  ;  called  bouillon  by  the  half-breeds.  At  ten, 
P.  M.,  a  very  heavy  storm  of  thunder  and  lightning  came  up 
suddenly  from  the  southwest.  The  rain  descended  in  torrents, 
the  winds  blew,  thunders  roared,  lightning  flashed,  the  tent 
flies  snapped,  flapped,  and  cracked  ;  the  water  rolled  in  under 
our  oil-cloth  floor,  while  we  remained  all  safe  and  dry  and 
went  to  sleep  amid  the  raging  and  roaring  of  the  tempest. 

Friday,  29th. — Cloudy  and  very  damp  early  in  the  morn- 
ing ;  cleared  up  about  ten  o'clock ;  fine,  cool,  and  ple.^sant, 
with  a  good  breeze  from  the  north.     The  troops  having  m,?de 
a  raft  yesterday  afternoon,  they  bogan  to   cross  early  this 
morning,  rafting  over  their  goods,  and  drawing  the  wago-s 
over  with  ropes;    swimming  and  wading  the  horses  over  at 
two  different  fords,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  apart. 
They  were  all  over  at  half-past  ten  o'clock,  and  then  camu 
our  turn  ;  all  our  goods,  provisions,  baggage,  &c.,  Avjre  turned 
out  on  the  gv.ss  to  diy,  which  opportunity  I  availed  myself 
of  to  examine  an  1   take  a  list  of  all.     The  carts  were  drav.n 
over  by  ropes,  Hie  goods  taken  over  on  the  raft,  and  the  horses 
swam  ntkOSB  all  at  the  lower  and  deeper  ford.     After  all  was 
again  rpp;:cked  v.e  started  at  two,  P.  M.,  and  after  pursuing  a 
northvcci    coui'^e    about    eight   miles,    over    a    flat,   marshy 
prairie,  we  crossed  cv^^r  the  Wild  Rice  river  on  a  rustic  bridge 
.  f  logs,  and  can.ped  on   the  other  side,  near  the  uragnnns, 
whom  we  foand  already  there  and  .'imfortably  fixed,     lue 


l> 


ir' 


I 


262 


SKKTOllES   BY   A   CAMP-FIKE. 


Wild  Rice  is  a  narrow  and  very  crooked  stream,  with  high 
banks,  and  resembles  a  deep  ditch  of  dirty  water.  It  is 
skirted  with  woodland  at  intervals.  Wo  are  now  three  or 
four  miles  down  Red  river,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Sioux 
wood,  above  which  it  takes  the  name  of  Ottertail  river.  Our 
distance  from  Red  river,  to  the  west,  is  some  three  miles  ;  the 
woods  bordering  its  banks  being  visible  during  our  ride  this 
afternoon.  Our  whole  journey  to-day  has  not  exceeded  ten 
miles ;  to-morrow,  we  have  a  march  of  twenty-five  miles  to 
t  the  Shayenne,  which  we  cross  thirty  miles  above  its  mouth  ; 
and  I  am  told  that  we  will  not  see  Red  river  until  our  arrival 
at  Pembina,  as  our  road  skirts  along  the  high  ground  on  the 
western  slope  of  the  valley,  distant  on  an  average  some  thirty 
to  forty  miles.  This  detour  is  necessary  to  avoid  the  marshes, 
swamps  and  bad  places  along  the  bed  of  the  valley  and  nearer 
to  the  river. 

Saturday,  30th. —  A  fine,  clear,  warm,  day — the  finest  we 
have  yet  had.  This  morning  a  false  alarm  raised  all  the  camp 
at  half-past  one  o'clock ;  a  lire  was  made,  the  kettle  put  on, 
water  boiled  and  after  putting  the  tea  to  draw,  we  all  returned 
io  bed  again,  determined  that  nothing  should  "  draw"  us  out 
again  till  morning.  Our  road  to-day  lay  over  a  flat  and 
marshy  prairie,  with  no  lakes  or  streams,  the  woods  along 
Red  river  alone  being  visible,  away  off  to  the  right.  At  noon 
we  halted  at  a  stagnant  pool  of  dirty  water,  cut  down  two 
small  dead  poplars  (all  the  timber  we  could  find),  boiled  our 
coffee  and  had  a  cold  bite  for  dinner.  Tha  sun  was  very  hot, 
huge  bottle-flies  and  gnats  very  bad,  and  our  horses  most  used 
up.  At  three  this  afternoon  we  started  on  again,  and  rode 
twelve  miles,  to  the  Shayenne,  that  is,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Black  and 
I,  who  ride  together.  Here  we  found  the  dragoons  encamped 
on  the  top  of  the  steep  wooded  bank,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Shayenne  ;  the  turbid,  narrow,  river  rolling  rapidly  about  two 
hundred  feet  below,  and  a  vast  expanse  of  rolling  prairie  away 
off  to  the  north  on  the  other  side.  The  country  passed  over  this 
afternoon  was  a  level,  marshy  prairie  for  the  most  part,  with 
sand-hill  knolls  like  mounds,  and  excavations  as  though  done 
by  hand,  at  intervals.     As  we  approached  within  six  miles  of 


THE  OUTWARD   MARCn. 


263 


tlio  Shavcnne,  the  timber  in  groves  became  more  abundant, 
with  rolling  prairie,  hills,  mounds,  and  valleys  leading  us  to 
suppose  we  were  immediately  on  its  banks.     The  dragoons 
were  deceived  in  common  with  the  rest  of  us  and  thus  led  some 
ten  miles  beyond  their  usual  march ;   making  a  distance  of 
thirty  miles.     At  their  camp  we  found  Dr.  Foster  and  a  friend, 
^ho  had  rode  on  at  noon  in  search  of  the  Shayenne.     After 
partaking  of  a  good  supper  in  Lieutenant  Corley's  tent,  and 
waiting  till  nine  o'clock  for  the  arrival  of  our  carts  and  balance 
\  of  the  party,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Black  and  I  re-caught  our  horses,  ' 
and  rode  back  by  the  light  of  the  new  moon,  in  search  of  tl  , 
stray  wanderers;  after  a  ride  of  some  two  miles  we  came 
sight  of  their  camp-fire,  to  our  great  joy,  and  soon  came  to  the 
camp,  at  ten,  P.  M. ;  the  tents  were  pitched  on  tho  open  prairie, 
just  on  the  side  of  a  swamp,  where  the  water  was  pretty  good  ; 
also  some  wood  handy,  and  but  few  mosquitoes,  which  at  the 
dragoon  camp  were  far  worse  than  I  ever  saw  before,  or  heard 
of,  or  imagined  ;  in  fact,  no  imagination  could  do  them  justice 
—  they  must  be  seen  and  felt  to  be  appreciated.     I  rode  a 
cream-colored  horse,  and  was  unable  to  distinguish  the  color 
of  the  animal  so  thickly  was  he  covered  on  my  arrival  there. 
During  supper  they  swarmed  around  like  bees  hiving,  and 
entered  the  mouth,  nose,  ears,  and  eyes,  and  had  it  not  been 
for  a  cool,  fresh,  evening  breeze,  they  would  have  been  un- 
bearable.    Dr.  F.  remained  with  the  lieutenant  at  the  camp 
all  night,  and  I  have  since  learned  that  they  were  almost 
literally  devoured  alive,  albeit  they  had   the  protection  of 
mosquito  bars ;  which  on  this  occasion  did  not  amount  to  much. 
Dr.  F.  was  phlebotomised  to  the  extent  of  several  pounds  of 
blood ;  and  finally  took  refuge  on  the  open  prairie,  muffled  up 
in  a  lot  of  blankets,  and  exposed  to  the  keen  night  wind,  which 
still  proving  ineffectual  in  resisting  their  attacks  (as  he  says 
they  even  venetrated  through  his  boots),  he  finally,  at  daylight, 
threw  off  all  'lisguise,  and  almost  distracted  took  refuge  in  a 
smudge  among  the  tents.     He  to-day  looks  dry,  and  has  very 
much  of  a  smoked  appearance,  besides  being  weak.    He  feels 
that  he  has  been  victimized  by  hordes  and  legions  of  winged 
devils  — a  mosquitoed  martyr.     At  our  own  camp  I  slept  com- 


m;  j  j 


,     I       M 


('■■ 


204 


SKIiTOnES    BY    A    CAMT MUK. 


fortably  without  a  bar,  and  had  no  moi-o  bills  presented  than  I 
could  settle,  withont  disturbinjif  pleasant  slumber. 

Sunday,  Gist. — The  last  day  of  summer  and  a  cool  and 
pleasant  one  —  with  a  fine  breeze,  the  very  countcr])art  of 
yesterday,  which  was  exceedingly  warm,  "VVo  rose  late  this 
morning  and  started  about  seven  o'clock  —  soon  came  to  tiie 
Shayenno  again,  and  after  passing  the  dragoon  camp,  and. 
down  the  high,  steep  hill  on  the  south  side,  wo  passed  the 
river  on  a  rough  log  bridge  ;  the  muddy  stream  flowing  below 
deep  and  silently,  like  a  large  canal,  the  banks  steep,  muddy, 
and  heavily  wooded.  The  country  through  which  the  Shay- 
enne  flows  is  much  broken  and  quite  hilly,  with  knolls  and 
sand-bands  rising  npward  in  much  confusion.  On  the  north 
side  of  the  stream  the  countiy  is  quite  low  and  flat,  almost  on 
a  level  with  the  river,  and  forming  a  strange  contrast  with  the 
high  bank  opposite.  It  rises,  however,  in  the  coxu'se  of  a  mile 
or  more,  and  we  ascended  another  level  prairie  when  our  hun- 
ters discovered  two  bull-bufialo  about  a  mile  ahead.  They 
immediately  equipped  and  started,  and  soon  surrounded  and 
killed  both.  The  carts  and  balance  of  the  party  then  pro- 
ceeded to  the  spot ;  about  half  a  mile  from  the  road,  and  on 
discovei'ing  water,  we  encamped  on  the  open  prairie  for  the 
balance  of  the  day.  The  buff'alo  were  skinned,  the  choice 
parts  cut  out,  and  the  liver  and  kidneys  fried  for  dinner.  It 
was  not  as  good  as  that  of  beef,  and  I  must  taste  the  steaks 
before  I  decide  as  to  the  merits  of  bull-buffalo.  As  this  Avas 
the  iirst  buffalo  seen  or  taken,  it  afforded  for  a  time  much 
excitement.  Guns,  pistols,  etc.,  were  reloaded,  handkerchiefs 
were  tied  around  heads,  waists  belted,  stirrups  tightened  and 
away  they  went,  best  fellow  foremost,  and  Dr.  Foster  himself 
in  the  carriage  this  time  (instead  of  Tyler),  in  hot  pursuit. 

Monday,  September  1. —  The  mosquitoes  this  morning  were 
almost  u3  bad  as  on  Saturday  night,  the  air  being  warui  and 
sultry,  and  weather  cloudy,  and  oiir  camp  being  on  the  flat, 
marshy  prairie,  near  a  swamp.  There  was  no  satisfaction  in 
eating  even  buffalo  meat,  which,  by-the-by,  is  not  so  good  as 
a  beef-steak,  by  any  means,  being  dry,  tough,  and  more  taste- 
Jess.     If  broiled,  and  Avell-seasoned,  it  might  answer  better. 


w 


•niK    OUTWARD    MAriCH. 

0.   passed    ovor  n   flat,  m.-irsliy  praiiio  tl 


2C5 


lis  nioninifr  fnr  to 


n 


iinlos,  and  crossed  over  Maplo  river  on  a  rough  log-brid-e 
winch  l.eing  there,  saved  us  much  trouble,  as  the  banks  were 
l)igli,  nnd  the  stream  deep,  very  crooked  and  ditch-like,  with 
Home  timber  on  its  banks.  This  afternoon  we  passed  on  six 
nulos  further,  and  camped  near  a  ravine  of  water  just  on  the 
road  ;  the  mosquitoes,  as  usual,  very  bad. 

We  to  day  left  our  escort  of  dragoons  at  Maple  river,  where 
they  arrived  just  before  we  left,  at  three.  1\  M.,  having  pre- 
Honted  the  poor  fellows  with  a  portion  of  our  buffalo  meat  to 
feast  on.     Our  horses  now  look  lank  and  lean;  between  Ion- 
inarches,  fhes  and  mosquitoes,  and  no  grain,  they  have  fared 
badly  ;   we   hope  to   have  cool  weather,  and  perhaps  a  frost 
soon.     As  for  the  mosquitoes,  they  have  been  almost  nuendu- 
rablc  all  day.     'J^he  weather  is  warm  ;  mercury  was  sixty-five 
degrees  at  sunrise,  and  our  march  only  about  fifteen  mib's 
Soon  after  camping  to-night,  our  hinitcrs  rode  out  and  shot 
another  buffalo,  which  had  been  discovered  lying  in  the  bio], 
grass  about  a  mile  off  from  camp.     He  proved  to  be  a  bull, 
and  ran  most  furiously  for  a  mile  or  two  before  he  was  sur- 
rounded and  brought  to  bay.     During  the  chase,  Pierre  Bot- 
tineau's horse  stumbled,  and  threw  his  rider  violently  to  the 
ground.     He  was  picked  up  insensible,  terribly  stunned  thot,..h 
not  much  hurt.     He  was  bled,  brought  to  camp  in  the  carria-e. 
and  put  to  bed.     The  choice  portions  of  the  buffalo  only  were 
taken,  and  the  carcass  left  to  the  tender  mercies  of  a  band  of 
wolves,  who  howled,  barked,  and  preyed  over  it  all  night. 

Tuj;sDAV,2d.  — A  very  warm  day;  sun  shines  vorv  hot,  and 
the  flies  and  mosquitoes  are  extremely  bad.  We  made  a 
rnarch  of  twelve  miles,  and  stopped  to  dine  in  some  timber  on 
the  banks  of  Hush  river,  another  small  ditch-like  stream 
Kode  on  six  miles  farther  in  the  afternoon,  and  camped  wifh 
the  dragoons,  who  had  come  up  at  noon,  passed  us,  and  gone 
ahead.  1  hey  had  just  killed  another  buffalo,  and  were  cook- 
n.g  large  quantities  of  the  meat  for  supper- buffalo  now 
becoming  quite  plenty. 

Our  camp   to-night   is   on    the  open,  wide,  and  apjjarently 
boundless  prairie-no   wood  in  sight,  and  none  to  use  sav« 

12 


\ 


mi 


tv  :j 


260 


SKiaOIIES    HV    A    CAMr-FlKE. 


what  wc  carry  vltli  uh.  Tlu"-  country  is  flat,  and  very  \inin- 
tcrostln}^,  tli(i  water  stnj;iiant,  and  j)raIrIo  niansliy.  iSlo  Klgnu 
of  Rod  river,  avo  beln;^  still  away  oil"  some  Corty  miles  to  tlio 
left.  The  mercury  at  sunrise  to-day  was  down  to  I'orty-tlireo 
degrees,  not  (juite  cold  enough,  however,  to  deaden  our  tor- 
mentors, yet,  who  are  almost  as  active  as  over. 

Wkdnksdav,  '3d.  —  Up  at  four  o'clock,  and  away  at  five, 
A.M.  Rode  ten  miles,  and  halted  for  our  noonday  rest ;  dined 
on  a  knoll  ahovo  the  prairie,  near  a  snuill  stream  of  water. 
The  mercury  this  morning;  stood  at  sixty-six  deforces,  the  air 
very  warm  from  the  south,  and  a  thunder-storm  away  oil"  to 
the  north.  The  nu)S(|uitoes,  as  usual,  very  bad  early  in 
the  morning.  The  wind,  however,  was  strong  this  afternoon, 
and  blow  the  most  of  them  away,  ami  wo  were  not  troubled  so 

much  till  night  again  ;  very  glad  for  that  respite  any  how 

our  tormentors  are  continuous  and  excessive  generally,  ]\[ado 
a  march  of  ten  miles  this  ailernoon,  and  camped  on  the  prairio 
near  a  pcmd  of  water,  though  wc  had  no  wood,  save  what  we 
carried  with  us. 

MoHi  of  the  party  started  on  a  buffalo  liunt  this  afternoon, 
and  did  mit  return  till  al'ter  dark,  Avhen  they  came  in  shouting 
and  yelling  like  wild  Indians.  They  killed  two  bulls,  and 
the  dragoons  killed  three.  'JMie  country  passed  over  to-day 
was  more  interesting,  being  high-rolling  prairie.  Our  road 
led  over  a  ridge  of  rolling  land,  ruiniiug  east  and  west, 
though  no  timber  has  been  visible  since  at  noon  yesterday. 

TiiURsuAV,  dlh.  —  Up  at  daylight ;  the  mosquitoes  being  too 
bad  to  allow  of  much  sleeping.  They  kept  us  awake,  in  fact, 
most  of  the  night  ;  the  inside  of  the  bars  containing  quite 
enough  to  worry  a  man,  and  keep  him  slapping  and  lighting 
instead  of  sleeping,  while  the  tent  was  black  with  them, 
and  their  humming  noise  sounded  like  bees  hiving.  Six 
buffalo  were  discovered  this  morning  within  a  few  hundred 
yards  of  the  camp,  but  as  our  horses  had  run  off  w^e  could  not 
follow  them.  Some  of  the  hunters  went  out  on  foot,  but  covdd 
not  approach  near  enough  to  get  a  shot.  After  riding  some 
eight  miles  this  forenoon,  we  came  to  a  branch  of  Goose  river, 
iiud  found  the  dragoons  there,  and  busy  drying  their  buffalo 


Till!;   OUTU'Altl)    MARCH. 


267 


mcnt  ovcv  smoke.  Horo  ^\o,  foniid  llic  first  tiiiihor  soon  in  two 
dny.s;  it  bordered  tlio  liif,'li  bliift"  on  tlie  soutli  side  of  the 
pretty  vsillcy  tlirongli  which  this  hranclj  of  Goose  river  mean- 
ders in  a  very  tortuous  manner,  in  common  with  all  these 
prairie  streams.  Wc  crossed  the  valley,  and  ascended  the  high 
hill  on  the  north  side,  whore  we  dined  and  took  a  bath  in  the 
clear  cool  stream  besides.  The  wood  on  this  side  being  scarce, 
we  cooked  no  diiuier.  Our  meals  to-day  consisted  of  cold 
boiled  pork  and  buffalo.  The  streams  and  crossings  in  this 
valley,  unlike  those  between  the  lied  and  ]\rississippi,  flow 
deep  through  the  prairie,  and  have  for  the  most  part  hard 
sandy  or  gravel  bottoms.  'J'he  soil  is  lighter,  and  contains 
more  sand;  there  is  also  far  loss  woodland,  and  a  less  lux- 
urious growth  of  vegetation.  Wc  came  up  to  no  more  had 
places,  where  horses  swamp  and  teams  get  mired  ;  but  pass 
over  all  obstructions  in  the  Avay  of  streams  and  swamps  Avith- 
out  any  difficulty.  This  afternoon  we  rode  some  twelve  miles, 
and  camped  on  a  knoll  above  a  small  stream  of  clear  good 
w%ater  (though  very  warm).  Having  no  wood,  we  were  obliged 
to  boil  our  kettle,  and  the  French  boys  their  pork  and  buffalo, 
over  a  fire  made  of  dried  buffalo  chips. 

Only  a  few  mosquitoes  on  hand,  and  those  driven  to  leeward 
by  the  strong  smoke  and  smell  of  the  buffalo  chips.  We  kept 
them  all  out  of  the  tents  too,  and  had  the  most  comfortable 
sleep  wc  have  had  since  starting  ;  Avhich  makes  amends  for 
lasfr  night's  torments,  and  is  like  a  change  from  purgatory  to 
the  third  heaven.  A  splendid  aurora  borealis  was  Avitnessed 
from  the  camp  last  night ;  a  glorious  display  Avhich  is  very 
seldom  equalled. 

Our  escort,  Avhich  is  ahvays  far  ahead  or  out  of  timely  reach 
in  case  of  need  behind,  passed  us  at  our  camp  at  noon,  and 
are  out  of  sight  ahead  to-night.  After  supper  Ave  Avere  sere- 
naded by  a  large  band  of  Avolves,  Avhich  proAvled  round  our 
camp,  and  hoAvled  most  fearfully  all  night  long. 

Wo  utterly  disregard  all  Avolves,  Indians,  and  other  vannints. 
This  afternoon,  I  chased  a  large  drove  of  greyish  brown  Avolves 
for  a  mile  or  tAvo,  and  shot  a  number  of  them.  In  the  distance 
when  first  seen,  they  looked  large  like  elk  or  deer,  and  one 


•  1 


I 


!|i 


L'OS 


l)I;ick 


"HK  IK  Ill's     ns,       v     I  AMI-   MICK 


our.  iiK.vrd    likr  a  Liillul,,.     Our  ni.iivh  to-day  was  iVom 


wiMtMMi  to  t'inlilci'ii  mil 


I'^Kinw,  ;*||i. — (.'l.'aijinc,  and  jdcasjuit  ;  smi  wvy  | 


n  good  l>roi'/r  iVom  .soutliw  rst.     Ko,U,  h-u  mil 
K".  ovKi-  a   i^iMitly  lolling'  prairie 


III 


lot,  with 
t-H  ill   tlio  iiioni- 


,  Jiscciidiiij.-  oiii)  lid^o  and 
"<'^vu  anolJM.r.wiil,  „„tl.ing  l.i.t  Icvrl  prairios  ami  li.lgrs  al.cail, 
mm  altiT  anotJuT  iii  Huccfssion,  ^vith  k„ull«.  immuIs.  ami  a  small 
Inkv  <„•  t>v..  I.y  way  of  variety,  and  a  strip  ofwoodjaml  uway 
"'»  <"  <'m^  rij.'l.t.  llallr.l  at  tni,  A.  M.,  ou  u  bnuu-i.  of  (Jo,.so 
nxrr.  (i.o„gl,  not  so  largo  as  llu,  one  passed  yrstrrday  ;  in  fact 
't  IS  now  a  nu'iv,  rivulet  of  three  or  lour  leet  wi.le.  The  wat,T 
g;...d  ami  rather  eo,d.  Jlaving  but  little  wood  to  cook,  wo 
limed  on  lierrnijr,  tea,  and  cruckerH. 

This  afternoon  we  made  Hbout  ten  miles,  and  camped  at 
<lMrk  on  the  l.row  of  a  hill  near  a  small  stream  ;  the  dragoons 
AviMe  encamped  in  the  edge  of  some  timber,  about  two  miles 
nhead.  A  very  pleasant,  clear  evening,  and  the  m.)s<,nitoe8 
Hoarc-  ;  supped  on  bnllalo-meat  aud  tea,  and  slept  comfortably 
and  soundly,  "^ 

i^xvviuny,  Gth.-Cloudy  and  cold,  rpiitc  a  change  since  yes- 
tonlay;  mercury  lorty-eight  degrees  at  dawn.  At  eleven,  A 
31..  ram  conunenced  falling,  and  a  heavy  thunder-storm  passed 
.•"•o<nul  the  hori.ou,  a  portion  visiting  us.  AVind  fresh  from  the 
"""•'.  ro.iuirmg  oloves  ami  overcoats.  Up  .,t  daylight,  ami 
away  on  our  march  as  usual  \ery  early 

Uo.le  some  twelve  miles,  and  overtook  the  dragoons  at  ten, 
A.M. ;  made  a  temporary  halt  till  eleven,.thcn  procee.led  some 
three  nuhs  larther  and  awaited  the  arrival  of  the  carts,  which 
came  up  at   three,  1'.  .M.     ^\ ,  then  camped  on  the  south  side 
ul  a  smal     stre;im.  a  branch  of  .Salt  rircr,  and  prepared  for  a 
comiortalde  night's  rest,  and  a  ipuet  .ponding  of  the  sabbath 
***** 
Ihe   .Iragoons  had  previously  encamped  on  the  north  side 
ot   t„e  same  stream,  and  ha.l  just  killed  an..thcr  buffalo  in  the 
inulst   ot   the  thumler-storm.     Our  route  stilllies  over  prairie 
interspersed  with  belts  of  timber,  and  stretching  north.     ThJ 
banks  ot  the  brook  upon  which  we  have  encamped  are  also 
slightly  wooded,  aud    I    believe  ne  will  now  have  plenty  the 


nt 


TIIK    OUTWAKI)   MAHCir. 


2^9 


roHt  of  our  joiujioy.  Wo  Imvo  now  l)oon  four  days  without 
nny,  save?  wlint  W(!  anritHl  with  uh,  and  all  tho  old  empty  har- 
nds,  boxcH,  &c.,  havo  hoou  l»ronp;lit  into  roquiHition. 

\Vc5  were  anuiscd  tliisniorninj;  hy  Joseph  (Jourserolc,  ayoung 
lialf-hiecd  Sioux,  who  \n  our  chict'cook,  ^c.  IIo  was  makiuf^  a 
HpocH'h  in  tho  camp  in  the  presonco  of  the  French  hoys  around 
the  fire.  Ho  spoke  and  ^'esticulated  with  nil  tho  earnestness 
of  the  real  Indian,  and  was  encored  hy  loud  "  hohs"  from  tho 
nwakened  sleepers  in  our  tent.  He  spoko  in  Sioux,  and  I 
Hni)po8e  from  his  manner,  ho  told  wonderful  things.  lie  was 
horn  away  out  to  the  northwest  of  our  j)rc8cnt  camp  at  Devil's 
Inke,  and  was  raised  at  Mendota  hy  the  Hon.  11.  H.  Sihley. 
He  is  now  an  excellent  hunter,  the  l)est  shot  in  the  party,  and 
])romises  to  hec.  me  a  celehrated  voyageur,  and  unrivalled  in 
the  chase.  One  of  the  party  was  taken  sick  to-day.  Wo 
camped  together  ikis  time,  and  medical  attendance  was  at  onco 
on  hand. 

Among  the  fifty  people  who  compose  our  party,  are  an  old 
Canadian  Frenchman,  and  a  companion  younger  than  himself. 
Tho  (dd  man  passed  nearly  all  the  earlier  portions  of  his  life 
on  lied  river,  and  till  some  twenty  yonrs  ago,  when  he  moved 
to  ]\Iissouri  territory,  and  has  been  living  ever  since  aAvay  out 
among  the  Blackfeet  Indians.  He  is  now  returning  to  live  and 
die  at  the  Selkirk  settlements.  He  and  his  companion  ride  in 
a  two-horse  wagon,  drawn  hy  two  grays,  and,  although  they 
camp  with  us,  they  cook  and  eat  at  their  own  camp-lire,  and 
sleep  without  a  tent,  cither  under  their  wagon  or  alongside  on 
a  hed  of  robes  and  blankets  on  the  ground.  The  old  gentle- 
man is  active  and  yet  vigorous,  though  his  head  shakes  with 
age. 

rierre  Bottineau,  who  contracted  to  take  our  goods  and 
l)rovisions  from  Sauk  llapids  through  to  Pembina,  is  a  half- 
breed  Chippewa;  of  a  highly-nervous  temperament,  with 
Indian  features  strongly  marked,  very  swarthy,  dark  hair,  tall, 
nnisculnr,  and  active,  and  is  about  thirty-seven  years  of  age.  He 
is  an  excellent  hunter  and  voyageur;  was  born  in,  and  has 
spent  his  whole  life  in  wandering  in  and  exploring,  this  terri- 
tory and  adjacent  country.     He  has  along  eight  carts,  each 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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270 


SKETCHES  BY    A   CAMP  FIRE. 


loaded   with   about  five  hundred  pounds  of  freight,  and  six 

Canadian  French  boys  as  drivers ;  also  two  half-breed  men  of 

the  Ghippowa  tribe —  one  his  own  brother. 
.         The  finest  exhibition  of  the  aurora  borealis  I  ever  witnessed 

occurred  to-night,  beginning  at  nine  o'clock. 

To  attempt  a  description,  however,  is  the  height  of  vanity. 
The  Kev  Mr.  Black  and  I  gazed  long  ,:pon  it  as  a  most 
remarkable  manifestation  in  the  heavens,  before  we  could  tear 
ourselves  away  and  retire  to  rest.  How  long  it  continued  after 
midnight  I  can  not  say. 

sn^'-.^^'''^'  r^'?  ^'f  '^'"^  ^'''  ^'^^  ^'^  ^^""^^'^^  a^^d  Scotland, 
says  It  IS  much  the  finest  exhibition  he  has  ever  seen ;  and 

Pierre  has  never  seen  its  equal  this  side  of  Hudson's  bay, 
where  they  are  extremely  common  and  very  beautiful.  We 
are  now  in  latitude  forty-eight  degrees  north,  and  I  suppose 
will  have  frequent  exhibitions  of  them. 

Sunday,  7th. -A  most  beautiful,  cool,  clear,  calm,  and  quiet 
day -the  pleasantest  we  have  yet  had.  The  camp  is  quiet  • 
the  people  are  all  reading  or  sleeping ;  no  mosquitoes  to  anno; 

one,  and  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Saline  river,  a  small 

ti.am  oniy  a  few  yards  wide.     On  the  opposite  side  near  by 

IS  the  dragoon  camp,  with  the  horses  grazing  in  the  little  valley 

Ween;  the  whole  forming  a  pretty  and  very  interesting 

It  is  three  weeks  to-day  since  we  left  St.  Paul.  Three 
weeks  of  daily  travel  across  prairies,  swamps,  and  streams,  up 
eady  and  down  late  Three  weeks  of  a  bold,  wild,  free  sor^ 
of  lue-which  I  enjoy  the  more  the  further  we  advance,  and 
could  travel  on  to  Oregon  without  tiring.  We  have  no  long 
and  tedious  marches,  made  amid  "the  winter  of  discontent," 
and  in  rude,  rough,  and  boisterous  weather,  but  all  is  Indian 
summer,  amid  joyous  ease,  comforts,  and  many  pleasures. 
Another  aurora  to-night- soon  over;  a  brilliant  moonlight 
evening  ;  air  cold,  mercury  down  to  forty-five  degrees. 

Some  of  our  party  of  French  boys  l,ave  been  out  gunning 
to-day,  and  returned  with  lots  of  geese  and  ducks ;  others 


THE  OUTWAKD  ilAKOH. 


271 


h«ve  been  busy  pui,..,g  „„  „ew  cart-axle,,  their  umal  Sunday 
c.npl„yn,e„ta.     With  these  exceptions,  thing,  i„  and  a    „^J 
both  camps  have  been  i-eligiously  qniet. 
Monday,  8th.- A  most  beautiful,  clear  day,  with  a  cool ,    A 

'iave  yet  had,  the  nic-cury  being  down  to  tliirty-six  degrees 

caught  the  horses,  w.nch  were  quite  refreshed  and  strengthened 

Zt::ZT     T'  'T™'  »'''"-ven,A.M.,onl,n: 
took  up  our  hne  of  march  to  the  north.     The  draeoons  sound- 
ed  bugle,  and  were  off  ahead  of  us.    After  a  m'arc     of  fl 
mies,  ,™  came  to  a  stream  supposed  by  us  to  be  the  Big  Salt 
r  ver.     It  flowed   over  a  hard,   and  in  places  a  stonyf  bed 

pausbeng  heavily  wooded  with  good-sized  oaks.     A  ran..e 

bimg  a  hno  ot  mounds.     The  road  then  lay  over  a  gentlv- 

Tthe  beds^?»rT"^  occasionally.     Some  of  the  boulde.^ 
^^itll  /     "  T"""''  ™''  ««P'=ciaIly  on  the  ridges,  were 

yelkw  co"or         "         '""'  '""''  ""''  ^°"'- ''°'--''°-  "'  - 

hZTtT'"^  '"' •  '"'t  '"■""^  ^''^y  "f  "'^  I-'"'^  Salt,  and 

ab  It  til  'T  ™  '"  '''"'''''  "f'*"-  ^  ™'-y  P'''^^''"'  ride  of 
about  twelve  m.les,  according  to  our  usual  mode  of  computing 

d  stances,  v,..,  three  miles  an  hour,  on  a  slow  walk.  The  bank! 
of  this  small  rnxr  are  also  heavily  wooded  with  oak,  and  we 
have  found  amidst  them  some  few  more  of  those  cur;e" 
voyageur,  warmed  into  life  and  energy  by  the  noonday  un- 
1  mean  mosquitoes.  "^ 

We  started  on  again  at  three,  P.  M.,  and  proceeded  about 
hve  miles;  and  encamped  for  the  night  on  the  north  side  of 
qu.t„a  stream,  called  Cart  river-the  water  clear  and  cold 

woods"::''."'"  "  '''  ■'  ^""'  "■'■  ^™™"'  -<>  """"g'-  t .  ck 
«oods,  at  times  emerging  and  breaking  through  the  open 

p.a.ne  m  large,  deep  ravines,  one  fourth  of  a  mile  h,  wTdth 

«nd  over  one  hundred  feet  in  depth,  the  stream  in  some  pTIclt 


273 


SKETCHES   BY   A  CAMP-FIRB. 


being  very  deep  and  broad,  and  thickly  bordered  with  an  un- 
dergrowth of  bushes.  The  scenery  around  to-night  is  wild, 
romantic,  and  quite  beautiful.  A  furious  thunderstorm  is  com- 
ing up  :  the  low  mutterings  are  heard,  while  the  forked  light- 
nings are  played  all  around  the  horizon  in  the  distance,  and 
the  niglit  is  as  black  as  the  "  dark,  unfathomed  caves  of  ocean." 
And  now  comes  down  the  deluge,  a  perfect  avalanche  of  falling 
waters,  though  the  heaviest  of  the  storm  has  passed  around  us 
to  the  south. 

Tuesday,  9th. — Another  fine,  clear,  cool  day;  mercury  for- 
ty-eight at  sunrise.  We  made  a  march  this  morning  of  about 
fifteen  miles,  and  halted  for  dinner  near  a  beautiful  stream  of 
cold,  clear  water,  flowing  over  a  sandy  bottom,  intermixed  with 
slate  and  gravel,  in  common  with  all  the  streams  we  have 
crossed  to-day.  The  country  travelled  over  has  been  very 
beautiful  — a  rolling  prairie,  interspersed  with  heavy  belts  of 
timber  on  all  the  numerous  streams,  with  a  thick  undergrowth 
in  many  places.  The  country  is  much  better  adapted  to  farm- 
ing purposes  than  that  passed  over  on  the  ridge  between  the 
Red  and  Shayenne  rivers  which  we  crossed  on  our  last  week's 
march.  We  are  now  descending  the  slope  into  the  low  lands 
bordering  on  Red  river,  and  the  country  since  Saturday  morn- 
ing's march  has  much  improved  in  appearance  and  the  land  in 
quality.  Fine  farms  could  be  located  in  the  country  Ave  are 
now  passing  over,  and  for  grazing  purposes  it  can  scarcely  be 
equalled.     Small  lakes  are  abundant,  and  vegetation  good. 

This  afternoon  we  proceeded  about  five  miles,  and  halted 
early  on  an  elevated  ridge  of  timbered  land,  above  a  wide 
prairie  before  us,  bounded  on  the  far  side  to  the  northeast  by 
the  Poplar  isles,  just  dimly  visible  in  the  distance.  These  islands 
are  groves  of  young  poplars  thickly  collected  together  for 
miles  over  the  low,  flat  prairie,  like  the  wooded  isles  of  ocean. 

Wednesday,  10th.  — Cloudy,  cool,  yet  very  pleasant.  Up 
at  half-past  three  o'clock ;  breakfasted  about  daylight,  and  off 
on  our  march  at  sunrise.  Rode  ten  miles,  and  reached  Tongue 
river,  as  it  is  called  — a  stream  of  cold,  clear  water,  and  a 
branch  of  the  Pembina.  Here  we  overtook  the  dragoons,  en- 
camped, they  having  been  ahead  for  several  days.    Here  wo 


lUK    OUTWAKD    MARCH. 


2^8 


also  found  the  governor  and  Tyler,  they  having  gone  on  and 
left  us  yesterday,  to  overtake  and  stop  our  escort — and  com- 
pel them  to  accompany  us  into  Pembina,  from  which  we  are 
now  distant  only  some  thirty  miles. 

This  afternoon  we  travelled  eight  miles,  when  the  horses 
giving  out,  V  e  camped  on  the  open  prairie,  without  wood,  and 
no  good  water,  and  the  mosquitoes  nearly  as  bad  as  at  the 
Shayenne.  To-night  we  have  had  a  heavy  thunderstorm,  to 
avoid  which  and  our  unremitting  persecutors  we  betook  our- 
selves to  the  tents,  and  thence  inside  our  mosquito-bars,  and 
lay  gpcure  from  both.  We  passed  through  the  "  Poplar  isles" 
to-day,  and  found  it  to  be  a  flat,  swampy,  and  uninteresting 
portion  of  country.  The  dragoons  ere  out  of  sight  ahead  again 
to-night. 

Thursday,  11th.  —  Cold  and  cloudy,  with  rain  and  mist 
nearly  all  day ;  wind  northeast,  and  by  far  the  most  unpleas- 
ant day  we  have  yet  had.  Up  late,  and  breakfasted  in  the 
rain  for  the  first  time  on  the  march,  xlode  about  twelve  miles, 
and  at  noon  reached  Bottineau  point,  a  prominent  point  of 
woods  on  Tongue  river.  Here  we  halted  and  dined  in  the 
high,  wet  grass  —  our  last  meal  out.  It  consisted  of  ducks  (of 
which  we  shot  about  fifty  on  the  banks  of  Duck  lake,  near  by), 
also  pork  and  boiled  buffalo-tongues,  potatoes,  tea,  &c.,  with 
wild  plums  for  dessert  which  we  found  on  some  scrubby  trees 
on  the  river-bank,  and,  though  not  fully  ripe,  were  quite  a 
luxury. 

At  two,  P.  M.,  we  started  on,  and  soon  found  the  dragoons 
Jigain.  They  were  encamped  in  the  edge  of  the  woods  on 
Tongue  river,  where  they  remain  till  to-morrow.  We  now  had 
eight  miles  of  swampy  prairie  to  cross,  and  at  four,  P.  M., 
came  in  sight  of  the  first  houses  at  the  Eed  river  settlement, 
much  to  our  great  joy ;  as  a  house  was  as  much  of  a  novelty 
to  us  after  a  tramp  of  five  hundred  miles  across  the  unpeopled 
prairies,  as  the  first  sight  of  land  is  to  the  weary  and  tempest- 
tossed  mariner. 

The  houses  were  full  of  half-breeds,  who  saluted  us  with  tlie 
flischarge-  of  guns,  &c.  Dr.  Foster  and  Mr.  Lord  rode  on 
ahead,  and  were  treated  to  milk  and  potatoes — a  treat  equal 

12* 


274 


SKETCHES   BY    A   CAMr-FIRIL 


to  that  of  tlie  milk  ami  honey  received  by  the  wandering  chil- 
dren of  Israel  of  old.     A  mile  beyond  we  came  to  the  junction 
of  the  Red  and  Pembina  rivers,  and  found  the  trading-post  of 
N.  W.  Kittson,  Esq.,  and  the  settlement  called  Pembina  in  the 
angle  at  the  junction.     Here  we  found  half  a  dozen  log-dwel- 
lings, and  a  quantity  of  half-breed  and  Chippewa  lodges;  the 
American  flag  flying  from  the  top  of  a  tall  flag-staff";   with 
barns,  stables,  haystacks,  horses,  cattle,  &c.,  and  things  gener- 
ally looking  very  comfortable.     On  the  muddy  banks  in  front 
stood    an    admiring  group    of  several   hundred   whites,  half- 
ureeds,  and  Indians,  of  all  sizes ;   with  any  quantity  of  dogs, 
very  large  and  wolfish  :   and  amid  this  Babel  of  cries,  yelps, 
barks,  and  shouts,  from  the  said  big  dogs  and  little  papoose 
Indians,  we  came  to  a  halt  and  reconnoitred,  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Pembina  and  west  of  the  Red  river,  standing  almost 
glued  fast  in  the  sticky,  tenacious  mud,  caused  by  the  rains 
and  annual  overflow  of  these  two  rivers  for  three  years  past. 
The  timber  upon  their  banks  is  dead  (drowned  out),  the  ground 
destitute  of  grass,  with  tall,  rank  weeds  three  and  four  feet  in 
height  abounding. 

The  rivers  are  very  muddy  and  deep,  with  but  little  current. 
Red  river  is  about  one  hundred  yards  in  width,  and  the  Pem- 
bina twenty-five  yards.  The  country  is  very  flat  all  around, 
and  the  streams  heavily  wooded,  while  a  thick  growth  of 
young,  dead  willows  line  the  water's  edge  from  Pembina  to 
Selkirk  settlement.  Mr.  Kittson  and  Messrs.  Rolette  and  Cav- 
ileer  soon  visited  us  and  took  us  over  to  the  tow  n,  g'  ing  us 
the  freedom  of  the  place,  besides  sending  some  Selki.i.  buttef 
and  eggs  across  to  us  at  camp.  Our  carts  arriving  at  dark,  we 
built  a  rousing  fire,  pitched  tents,  covered  the  banks  with  grass 
and  weeds,  spread  our  oil-cloths  and  mattresses,  and  were  once 
more  comfortable.  ' 

This  is  our  last  night  •'  out  of  Bight  of  land"  — slept  our  last 
sleep  on  the  tented  prairie  for  the  present,  which  I  regret,  aa 
it  is  far  preferable  to  a  bed  of  down  within  a  palace.  Slept 
well,  too,  considering  the  multitude  of  discordant  and  almost 
unearthly  sounds  which  struck  upon  our  drowsy  ears,  accus- 
tomed to  quietness  and  calm.     Now  are  heard  the  Indians 


THE   OUTWARD  MARCH. 


275 


elirieking  and  beating  upon  drums  at  their  camp  across  the 
Pembina ;  and  those  big  dogs  keep  howling  dismally,  like  a 
host  of  wild,  voracious  wolves.  The  dark  and  cloudy  night  is 
made  hideous  with  hell-like  wailings;  and  the  mournful,  sigh- 
ing wind  bears  to  our  ears  the  sharp  and  piercing  cries  from  a 
hundred  deep-toned  throats,  sounding  in  their  awfulness  like 
the  despairing  bowlings  of  the  damned.  So  much  for  our  first 
night  at  Pembina. 

We  have  thus  made  the  march  from  Sauk  rapids  to  this 
place  in  twenty  travelling  days,  being  twenty-two  in  all,  and 
from  St.  Paul  just  twenty-five  days.  Messrs.  Kittson  find  Oav- 
ileer  came  through  a  short  time  since  in  twelve  days,  or  about 
nine  and  a  half  days  of  marching  time,  the  quickest  trip  on 
record. 

Friday,  12th.— Weather  cool  and  pleasant;  the  mercury 
forty-eight  degrees  at  sunrise.  This  morning  we  rode  a  few 
miles  out  of  town,  and  met  the  dragoons  advancing,  and  then 
escorted  them  to  the  junction  of  the  Pembina  and  Red  rivers 
where  we  all  crossed  the  former  stream,  to  the  settlements 
beyond.  We  found  a  busy  scene  on  going  over.  The  houses 
are  built  around  an  open  space,  and  the  square  coiu-tyard  (bO 
to  speak)  is  filled  with  a  miscellaneous  crowd  of  half-breeds, 
Indians,  of  all  sizes,  with  their  lodges  of  bark  and  skins,  to- 
gether with  horses,  cattle,  carts,  dogs,  &c.,  in  great  variety 
and  numbers. 

The  houses  are  built  of  logs,  filled  with  mud  and  straw ;  the 
roofs  thatched  with  the  latter,  and  some  covered  over  with 
bark.  Around  the  angles  of  the  yard  are  various  warehouses, 
an  icehouse,  blacksmith-shop,  and  the  trading-house,  or  store, 
which  is  covered  completely  over  with  large  squares  of  bark, 
and  looked  like  an  entire  barkhouse.  In  front,  toward  the 
river,  are  barns  and  stables,  haystacks,  «fcc.,  with  numerous 
horses  and  cattle  feeding,  and  a  general  appearance  of  thrift, 
comfort,  and  industry,  pervades  the  scene— so  new  and  inter 
esting  to  us  all,  after  a  three-weeks'  jaunt  across  the  prairies, 
in  which  we  did  not  meet  a  single  human  creature,  not  even  a 
roaming  Chippewa  or  Sioux. 

We  took  possession  of  Mr.  Kittson's  house,  which  he  had 


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276 


»KKT(niK8    BY    A    (^AMP-FTIIK, 


kindly  placed  nt  our  disposal,  and  celebrated  onr  arrival  by  a 
Bumptiions  dinner,  in  wliich  Itot  corn  and  potatoes,  onions,  &c., 
as  big  as  pint  tin-cups,  formed  tlie  principal  item  in  the  vege- 
table line.  These  were  grown  in  the  gardens  bore,  and  are 
the  only  productions  of  the  soil  now  cultivated  at  this  place, 
no  farming  whatever  being  done,  on  account  of  the  annual 
floods  in  the  valley  of  the  Red  river,  for  three  years  ])ast  — 
the  waters  having  risen  to  the  height  of  thirty-one  and  thirty- 
three  feet  above  low-water  mark,  flooding  all  the  country,  and 
inundating  the  houses  at  this  place  to  the  depth  of  two  and 
three  feet.  Mr.  Kittson  was  obliged  to  leave  the  post  at  this 
place  last  spring,  and  take  up  his  residence  for  a  month  npon 
the  surrounding  highlands.  These  floods,  should  they  con- 
tinue, will  prove  a  serious  drawback  to  the  settlement  of  this 
valley,  the  half-breeds  being  loath  to  put  in  crops  when  they 
are  liable  to  be  swept  off  annually. 

Mr.  Kittson  had  some  six  thousand  rails  swept  oft'  from  his 
place  last  year.  To  obviate  this  difficulty,  a  new  town  and  an 
agricultural  settlement  has  been  laid  out  by  Mr.  Kittson,  and 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Belcourt  (the  catholic  priest  stationed  at  this 
place),  on  what  is  called  the  Pembina  mountain,  thirty  miles 
to  the  west  of  this  place,  and  bordering  on  the  river  Pembina. 
The  situation  is  a  very  eligible  one,  in  a  fine  farming  region ; 
the  land  is  excellent,  and  the  timber  abundant.  The  town  is 
called  "  St.  Joseph's,"  and  is  situated  upon  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  longitudinal  ridge  of  land,  called  Mount  Pembina,  which 
is  in  places  heavily  wooded,  and  presents  an  Alleganian  ap- 
pearance as  it  is  approached  or  skirted  along  toward  the  east. 

Since  our  arrival,  the  name  of  "  "Waucheona,"  the  Chip- 
pewa term  for  mountain,  has  been  selected  by  Dr.  Foster,  and 
adopted  by  Mr.  Kittson,  as  the  name  of  the  embryo  town  ;  he 
being  opposed  to  exhausting  the  whole  calendar  of  saints,  and 
making  every  one  of  them  stand  as  godfather  to  every  town, 
lake,  mountain,  or  stream,  in  the  territory. 

In  consequence  of  there  being  no  farming  operations  carried 
on  here  now,  we  found  no  grain  on  hand  to  feed  our  horses, 
excepting  barley,  and  tliat  is  brought  up  from  the  Selkirk 
Bettlements,  one  hundred  miles  down  Red  river.     Barley  is  a 


TIIH:    OUTWARD    MARCn. 


277 


strong^er  feeder  than  oats,  yet  not  bo  good  as  corn.  It  pro- 
duces  more  than  oats,  say  about  forty  bushels  to  the  acre  ;  and 
the  price  beh)w  ranges  from  fifty  cents  to  a  dollar  per  busliel, 
the  former  being  the  standard  price  when  no  extra  demand 
takes  place. 

Tl»is  afternoon  I  took  a  walk  across  "  the  line,"  two  miles 
below,  in  company  with  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Black  and  Tanner, 
the  latter  a  half-breed  Chippewa.  About  half  way  down,  we 
passed  the  residence  of  the  Rcv.M.  Belcourt,  a  large,  two-story 
frame-house,  situated  alongside  of  a  rude  log-church,  surmounted 
by  a  wooden  cross. 

The  site  is  a  very  pleasant  and  commanding  one,  upon  the 
high  ground  about  half  a  mile  back  from  the  river,  and  safe 
from  floods.  Gardens,  out-houses,  and  vehicles,  were  scattered 
around,  and  an  air  of  comfort,  and  the  rude  enjoyments  of  a 
far-oft'  horae,  were  visible.  I  am  told  that  all  the  half-breeds 
here  are  catholics,  with  perhaps  a  few  exceptions,  and  that 
Mr.  Belcourt  has  resided  among  them,  at  the  settlements  below, 
and  here,  the  long  term  of  twenty-three  years  and  upward. 
He  is  at  present  at  the  Mountain.  At  the  line  (forty-nine 
degrees)  we  found  an  elm-post,  which  was  planted  in  the 
ground,  upon  the  river  bank,  by  Major  Woods  and  Oapt.  Pope, 
bearing  date,  August  14,  1849.  Just  beyond  is  the  firs*  tra- 
ding post  and  buildings  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  this 
direction,  a  rival  post  of  Kittson's.  The  uildings  are  built  of 
logs  and  mud,  one  story  high,  and  thatched  with  straw,  are 
very  warm  and  comfortable,  and  built  around  an  open  square. 
Here  we  found  an  old  Scotch  gentleman,  named  Sittare,  an 
employee  of  the  Bay  Company,  and  who  has  charge  of  this 
place.^  He  is  a  native  of  the  Orkney  Isles,  and  has  resided 
in  British  America  the  still  longer  term  of  forty-eight  years. 
A  lifetime  spent  amid  such  solitudes  is  enovgli  to  make  a  man 
a  misanthrope,  and  no  one  need  wonder  at  it  if  I  were  to  say 
til  at  the  old  gentleman  was  not  the  most  agreeable  personage 
that  I  have  met  in  this  direction. 

His  only  companions  were  a  few  half-breeds ;  the  trading- 
house  was  closed,  no  trade,  or  business  of  any  kind  on  band, 
and  the  whole  place  was  dull  and  desolate.     Slept  in  our  tent 


'1.1 


'    !' 


i'vl 

\         1'       *  2 


278 


SKKTCnKS   BY    A    CAMF'-FIIlM. 


to-niglit,  as  of  old ;  it  is  pitched  in  the  court-yard,  in  front  of 
the  main  buihlings,  with  largo  fires  burning  around,  and  at 
each,  is  assembled  a  motley  gvoup  of  whites,  half-breeds,  and 
Indians ;  while  in  the  distance,  the  dogs  are  howling,  the 
braves  and  younger  squaws  are  dancing  promiscuously  around 
their  lodges,  singing  and  beating  dnnns  for  their  amusement, 
and  perhaps  as  a  lullaby  to  us.  They  succeed  most  admirably, 
in  making  the  black  night  as  hideous  as  possible.  Our  escort 
of  dragoons,  are  encamped  about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  back 
upon  the  prairie,  and  their  camp  of  snow-white  tents,  with  the 
American  flag  flying  gayly  in  the  breeze,  presents  quite  a 
pretty  appearance,  in  contrast  with  the  half-breed  and  Indian 
lodges,  which  are  dotted  here  and  there,  sepjirately,  and  in 
little  hamlets  of  a  dozen,  all  around  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach. 

Saturday,  13th. —  Cloudy,  cold,  raw,  and  windy,  most  of  the 
day.  The  wind  is  keen  from  the  northeast,  and  feels  like  that 
of  a  winter's  day  in  milder  latitudes.  The  mercury  was  down 
to  fifty  degiees  at  sunrise,  and  only  rose  to  sixty-five  degrees. 
Early  this  morning,  a  large  Mackinaw  boat  started  for  the 
settlements  below,  in  quest  of  barley ;  ourselves  and  escort 
requiring  three  hundred  bushels.  The  boat  was  manned  by 
eight  half-breeds,  six  of  whom  were  oarsmen.  They  will 
occupy  two  days  in  going  down ;  two  more  in  collecting  the 
barley,  and  getting  it  thrashed,  as  it  noAV  stands  out  in  the 
fields  in  shocks;  five  days  to  ascend  the  crooked,  sluggish 
stream,  and  will  bring  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  bushels ; 
after  which  they  will  return  for  another  load,  and  immediately 
on  their  second  arrival,  say  about  the  1st  of  October,  we  will 
start  homeward.  To-day  the  half-breeds  and  Indians  were 
served  out  rations ;  the  Indians  received  floiir  and  pemmican 
for  three  days'  subsistence ;  and  the  half-breeds  the  same ; 
with  an  additional  allowance  to  each  family  of  four  poiinds  of 
eugar,  and  one  pound  of  tea,  they  all  being  great  lovers  of 
that  beverage.  This  occupied  all  the  morning.  The  Indians 
number  some  five  hundred,  and  the  half-breeds,  who  drew 
rations,  about  fifty  families.  The  latter  are  living  here  during 
their  attendance  on  the  treaty,  in  skin-lodges ;  though  1  am 


i 


THB   ODTWAKI)   MAKCII. 


279 


told  tl,cy  l,av«  comfortablo  Iog-l,„„„o«.  ,vl,„„  „„„.,1  pern,a 
ncntly  at  home;  and  wl.cn  „„t  „„,  „„  H.cir  .omi-„„„„aI  C 
I  have  ob«c,-vc,l  a  number  „f  their  hons.,  along  .],„  bank    of 
1  cmb„,a  and  Red  rivers,  and  ..nderrtand  the  rL  to  be    t  tl 
Mountain  and  away  out  at  Devil's  lake,  about  one  h„°d  'd 

Xeiiu  ror;;i"r''-  '^r: ""•"•"""" «' "re^nt i::s 

lively  that  of  hunters;  and  their  life  is  naturally  a  free  and 
easy  and  a  eareles,  one,  bunting  buffalo  and  making  ,  emmi- 

made  e  tirdv'of  •  "T'  ""   ""''  """'•     ''''-°  -"  "- 
ns  and  ,lo„      *°"/' ""'/^«»  ""  ''»"  -""  is  used,  wooden 

oZ'toot       /  •  "'"^  ''""'''  "^  '"'■''•  ''"'"g  "•''"ituted.    The 

only  tools  used  are  an  axe,  a  hand-saw,  a  three-quarter  a-d 

»u  .neh  auger,  with  chisels  of  the  same  size.    The t   ;  a™ 

old  for  h,rty  shillings,  which  is  the  average  price  exccntn 

d:^.ar"T  "T„7'  tl '"/"""""''  "-/-ifasiii  nr't 

io  lars.     A.  pair  of  wheels  alone,  are  then  worth  five  dollars 

cf'b^rinTprsr^*"'  """^'-'™  ^-^-^  p-^^ 

The  fall  hunt  comes  off  soon  after  the  conclusion  of  the  treaty 

d  r,r    ."r""'  '"  """"S  "P°"  "■«  ™'>""<^'  »■«'  fall  I  ml  T, 
he    0th  of  June  and  September.     Nothing  but  pemmicin  and 
dr^d  meat  is  secured  on  these  two  hunts,  the  robes  beTngln 
taken  m  the  winter,  when  the  hair  is  long ,  the  party  retufne 
from  their  summer  hunt  just  before  our  arrivaf  here      tTcv 
were  unsuccessful  too,  for  once,  and  returned  quite  poor  and 
empty-handed.     The  had  a  desperate  figiit,  ab!ut  the  20th  of 
August,  w  th  the  Yankton  Sioux,  who^  ^ero     1      bo"s  „d 
strong,  and  all  mounted  upon  horses,    the  affair  took  Tee 
away  off  upon  the  Missouri  plains,  upon  the  western  slope  ^f 
t       Coteau  des  Prairies,  and  resulted  in  the  victory  oTtle 
ha  f-breeds  after  they  had  been  entrenched  behind  their  cas 
and  an  earth  embankment,  for  a  day  or  two.    I  did  no   as!er 
tan,  the  number  killed  on  either  side. 

Sunday,  14th.-Clo„dy,  cold,  raw,  and  windy,   quite  nn- 
Ijleasan    and  unseasonable.     An  over-coat  is  necessary  ottTf 

«ea  her,  as  well  as  other  matters,  serves  to  remind  us  of  our 
northern  latitude.      To-day  we  had  preaching  by  ^fZ. 


II 


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BKKTClJICa    nv    /l   CAMr-riRH. 


John  lUnik,  ill  tlio  (linitig-ioom  <»!'  tlio  govcnior'H  liouso ;  a 
Movrlty  iiioHt  ct'itdiiily,  in  tliin  far  tlistunt  rogioii.  Tiio  cou- 
p;i('j;ulii»ii  iMdisiskul  ol'  alioiit  a  (Kizcii  whites,  and  tliri'O  luilt- 
bri'iulH.  Tliu  Kov,  i\Ir.  'i'.iuiun-  also  olliciatiMl,  sniiir,  and 
j)rayc(l,  in  English  ;  and  this  al'tcrnoon,  ho  iniiached  in  tho 
open  ail",  to  tiio  asscnihlod  Indians  in  tho  Chi|>i»owa  langua{j;e. 
Homo  of  them  paid  close  attention,  sitting  in  n  circle  npon  the 
gronnd  ;  Avhile  others  were  listless  and  wandering,  and  others 
Btood  looking  on  from  a  distance,  with  the  dragoons  and  half- 
Ijreeds.  The  (Jhij)j)evva  is  a  beantifidly  sounding  language,  liko 
the  Italinn.  j\lr  Tanncu*  uses  the  Chippewa  testanunit  and 
hymns,  which  were  translated  l)y  his  father,  who  was  i'ov  many 
years  a  jjrisoner  among  them,  and  wrote  a  book  thereon.  Mr. 
Tanner  is  about  thirty-fivo  years  of  age,  and  a  very  superior 
man  for  his  class ;  he  was  born  on  tho  oast  side  of  lied  river, 
opposite  this  place  ;  was  educated  at  Mackinaw,  and  has  acted 
ns  a  missionary  among  tho  Indians  at  Ucd  lake,  for  tho  last 
live  years,  lie  removed  to  this  place  a  week  ago,  and  intends 
farming,  teaching  school,  &c.,  for  a  livelihood  after  the  con- 
clusion of  the  treaty,  llis  wife  is  a  half-breed,  and  they  reside 
at  present,  in  a  lodge  in  tho  yard  at  this  place,  lie  is  a  fluent 
and  earnest  speaker,  and  discourses  with  great  fervor  and  much 
eloquence  to  his  red  brethren,  and  is  calculated  to  do  good,  if 
any  can  be  done  among  them  ;  ho  has  been  with  them  on  their 
bnfl'alo-hunts  to  tlie  Missouri  plains,  armed  like  the  rest ;  and 
has  hunted  buffalo  and  made  pcmmican  all  the  week,  and 
preached  the  gospel  to  them  on  Sundays  —  this  being  ono 
phase  of  missionary  life  upon  tho  prairies.  Ho  also  has  a 
half-breed  Lrother,  a  real  heathen  as  he  styles  him,  who  ranks 
as  a  chief  among  the  Indians,  and  who  liv";  among  them,  and 
accompanies  them  upon  their  hunts.  This  afternoon,  things 
are  dull  and  quiet ;  the  Indians  are  strolling  around,  or  lying 
idly  in  their  lodges ;  the  squaws  are  lugging  huge  loads  of 
wood  npon  their  backs,  Avhich  they  cut  npon  the  river's  bank, 
and  secure  by  a  scrap  passing  over  their  shoulders  and  around 
the  forehead  ;  their  bodies  bending  beneath  the  heavy  load. 
Dozens  of  dirty  children,  half-clad  in  a  piece  of  still  dirtier 
blanket,  are  also  playing  around.     The  half-breeds  arc  sitting 


THE   OL'TWAUD   MAUCU. 


281 


nronnd  tlu,  fPc,H  n,  the  ynr.l ;  «orn«  lyinf.  in  tlum-  U\^.s,  nud 
otherH  HUn.lM.K  at  a  n.-.u-ctrul  <li.stMMc...  listonins  f  >  Mr  'I'un- 
ner.  ll.oir  youn^^  ,,n,.st,  M.  J.cco,nb(.,  I,.'ch  con.o  down  frorr 
li'B  ro.i.hM.cc  at  th,,  luiHHion-l.ouHc  nincc  voHj.ers,  an.I  in  \u,Ul\u« 
a  conHuItat.on  >,  ith  ||u,  governor.  JIo  scmH  to  bo  a  very  iu 
U'll.front.  f.no.  yonufr  fclUm ;    nn.l   iutvAuh  nc(OTnpanyi„ff  u« 

.orncwan  to  St.  I'uul,  on  his  way  to  Montreal;  wh.ro  the 
Kov  Mr.  JUack  canu,  fW.n..  on  Lis  way  to  Sdkirk  Houh-.uw.u* ; 
turn  kooj.inp;  up  an  c.juilil,riun.  in  r(;Iif;io„H  nuittcrH,  and  (dlect- 
ing  a  cliansn  between  thoHo  two  distant  regions,  in  the  Persons 
of  two  ministers  of  diflen^nt  faiths;  which  is  pleasant  to  con- 
template,  and  which  will  bo  of  great  advantage  to  all  con- 
cerned. 


THE     TKEAry. 

MoxDAv,    LOth.-Still  cold,  raw,  windy,   and   unpleasant; 
wind  east-southeast ;  it  looks,  feels  too,  very  much  like  snow, 
and  has  for  several  days  past ;  the  mercury  was  down  to  fifty  at 
sunrise.     At  noon  the  Indians  met,  and  the  treaty  commenced 
in  front  of  the  governor's  house ;  his  excellency,  with  Dr.  Fos- 
ter as  secretary,  and   o'heis,  were  sitting  at  a  table  at  the 
front  door;  the  principal  chiefs,  braves,  and  head  men  of  the 
lied  lake  and  Pembina  bands  of  Ohippewas,  were  sitting  on 
low  seats  in  front,  while  around  behind  them  in  a  semi-circle 
stood  a  numerous  crowd  of  half-breeds  and  Indians,  men,  boys, 
fiquaws,  and  papooses,  accompanied  by  their  dogs,  who,  for 
once  during  our  stay  here,  were  quiet.     The  governor  openfd 
the  council  by  an  address  of  some  length,  which  was  inter- 
preted by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Tanner  and  Jamej  Nolen,  to  them  •  as 
also   their  replies  made  in  return.     An  old  Indian,  named 
"Clear- Weather,"  replied  twice  to  the  governor's  remarks,  in 
which  he  was  quite  pert  and  facetious  as  ho  thought,  and  end- 
ed by  wanting  a  plain  statement  of  our  business  there,  and 
what  we  were  going  to  do  for  them  — what  we  were  going  to 
offer  them,  told  bluntly  and  without  any  circumlocution  o-  or- 
nament ;  he  wanted  no  "  sugared  words  or  honeyed  phrases." 
He  was  not  at  all  satisfied  with  what  had  been  said  to  them, 


'ji; 


rx 


282 


BKKTCIIKS   BY    A   CAMl'-FlKa. 


and  wanted  something  more  definite,  explicit,  and  to  the  point, 
and  then  they  woukl  go  and  make  up  their  minds  ixpon  it,  pro- 
vided their  great  father  would  present  them  at  least  two  bul 
locks  in  the  meantime,  as  they  were  cxtr -nely  hungry  and 
could  not  deliberate  on  emj)ty  stomachs.  The  governor  then 
told  tliem  they  were  women,  and  not  the  great  Chippewa 
hunters  he  had  thought  them;  that  it  was  their  duty  as  chil- 
dren to  present  their  father  with  something  to  eat,  after  ho 
had  travelled  such  a  long  weary  journey  across  the  prairies 
purposely  to  meet  them  ;  hut  as  he  was  nov/ satisfied  that  they 
were  squaws,  and  knew  not  how  to  hunt,  he  would  go  himself 
this  afternoon  and  kill  them  some  bufi'alo,  and  asked  them  "  if 
they  would  have  cows  or  bulls  !"  This  little  sally  or  bit  of  by- 
play put  the-p  all  in  good  humor,  and  the  council  closed  till 
ten,  A.  M.,  to-morrow.  Tlie  dignitaries  and  potentates  of  this 
region  of  the  earth  then  walked  off  majestically  and  jn-oudly ; 
and  these  stoics  (1)  —  these  men  without  a  tear  (?) — were  seen 
no  more.  In  plain  terms  they  va?noosed,  in  double  quick  time, 
lugging  off  their  tobacco  on  their  shoulders,  and  driving  off 
their  cattle,  with  loud  shouts,  to  camp,  where  the  rest  of  the 
day  was  devoted  to  gormandizing,  and  to-night  we  have  hell 
let  loose  again  among  them. 

Tuesday,  16th.— Cloudy,  cold,  windy,  and  ra'ny.  At  day- 
light a  rainstorm  set  in  from  the  southeast,  and  continued 
nearly  all  day.  A  regular  old  fashioned  equinoctial ;  mercury 
down  to  fifty-four  and  only  rose  to  sixty-one  degrees.  No 
council  was  held  that  day  in  consequence  of  the  storm.  The 
Indians  all  invisible  ;  all  at  home  in  their  lodges,  surfeiting 
themselves  on  ox  meat  and  pemmican.  Things  very  dull  and 
gloomy  ;  everywhere  around  the  tent-fires  are  all  extinguished, 
and  the  star-spangled  barner  droops  and  hangs  straight  down 
the  tall  flag-staff,  reared  high  in  air  above.  The  mud  in  the 
court-yard  is  as  tenacious  as  pitch,  and  glues  a  man  to  the 
ground  as  soon  as  he  steps  out.  We  were,  therefore,  com- 
pelled to  be  sedentary  ;  spent  the  day,  for  my  oAvn  part,  in 
reading  "Major  Long's  Second  P^xpedition  to  the  Source  of  the 
St.  I'eter's  Iliver,  Red  lliver  Valley,  and  Across  the  Britisli 
Line,  in  1S2.')-'2G ;"  also  prepared  and  packed  up  provisions 


THE   OUTWARD   MARCH. 


283 


for  a  canoe  trip  to-morrow  down  to  Selkirk  settlement,  Fort 
Garry,  &c. 

Wednesday,    17tli.— The   weather  has   cleared  off  finely, 
and  is  cool  and  pleasant ;  wind  west-southwest,  and  the  sun 
quite  warm  ;  the  mercury  sixty-one  degrees  at  sunrise.     Rose 
at  daylight  and  prepared  for  a  start  down  the  river,  in  com- 
pany with  the  Ilev.  John  Black,  in  a  bark  canoe,  with  two 
Bois  BniUs*  as  voyageurs.     Our  canoe  was  fifteen  feet  long, 
and  tlireo  feet  wide,  and  was  pretty  well  loaded  down  with 
ourselves,  our  bedding,  baggage,  and  provisions.     We  started 
at  seven,  A.  M.,  and  paddled  down  the  crooked,  muddy  river 
at  the  rate  of  some  four  miles  an  hour,  stopping  several  hours 
to  breakfiist  and  dinner  upon  the  river  bank,  and  more  fre- 
quently to  haul  out  our  leaky,  frail  canoe,  and  pitch  the  bottom 
with  melted  epinctte,  a  vegetable  gum  used  for  that  purpose. 
We  saw  large  flocks  of  geese  and  ducks  swimming  among  the 
dead  willows  along  the  banks,  and    could    have   shot   large 
quantities,  but  we  had  not  tmie  to   stop  and  pick  them  up. 
The  ducks  were  all  quite  tame,  and  would  approach  within  a 
few  feet  of  our  canoe,  being  so  unused  to  the  sight  of  human 
beings  as  to  feel  no  fear.     Other  birds  are  numerous,  among 
which  1  notice  the  eagle,  hawk,  crane,  crow,  piovcr,  blackbird, 
and  pigeon  ;  also  observed  a  fish-duck  diving  after  fish  ;  he 
was  a  fine  largo  follow,  with  a  long  bill,  and  a  bright  scarlet 
head;  he  swam  toward  us  boldly,  and  thereby  saved  his  life 
by  his  fearless  confidence. 

Red  river  is  a  V(My  uninteresting  stream;  its  waters  are  a 
liquid  mud  and  have  a  very  disagreeable  taste,  and  affect  the 
bowels  of  all  persons  unaccustomed  to  their  use.  The  banks 
of  the  river  are  low,  and  extremely  soft  and  muddy;  you  sink 
in  knee-deep  immediately  on  stepping  foot  on  shore,  where  you 
stick  and  flounder  about  considerably  before  reaching  the  dry, 
hard  prairie-ground  abovo. 

Along  its  whole  coiu-.^e,  both  banks,  within  the  margin  of 

the  stream,  are  covered  with  the  thick  growth  of  drowned-out 

willows  before  spoken  of,  while  farther  back  on  the  prairie, 

fine  larj^e  trees,  majestic  oaks  and  elms,  are  in  the  same  con- 

*  Ilulf-breeds ;  the  name  signifies  burned  wood. 


I! 


f 

>.!| 


i)  1 

Mi 
11 


284 


SKETCUKS   BY   A  CAMP-FIRE. 


dition ;  and  now  stand  towering  aloft  like  high,  giant  skeleton 
sentinels,  throwing  out  their  dry  and  leafless  limbs  across  the 
Avater,  as  if  to  guard  its  passage.  Each  tree  is  marked  at  the 
height  of  some  thirty  feet  above  the  water  by  the  heavy  drift- 
ice  during  the  spring  freshets;  and  the  bark  of  all  the  timber 
to  that  height  is  of  a  dirty  mud  color,  which,  with  the  dead, 
drowned-out  trees,  presents  a  very  disagreeable  aspect.  In 
some  places  the  timber  merely  skirts  the  banks  on  both  sides, 
and  a  broad  expanse  extends  far  on  either  hand  ;  at  others 
the  timber  extends  farther  than  the  eye  can  penetrate,  and  no 
prairie  at  all  is  visible  for  many  miles,  all  being  a  desolate 
solitude  of  dead  and  dying  skeleton  trunks  of  leafless  trees. 
There  are  some  trunks  in  the  river  too  forming  snags ;  the 
water  is  very  deep,  current  sluggish,  say  about  one  mile  an 
hour  generally,  and  in  some  places  almost  imperceptible,  with 
not  more  than  half  a  mile  of  straight  channel  at  a  time ;  for 
while  its  general  course  is  due  north  it  twists  and  turns  in  a 
very  serpentine  manner,  to  all  points  of  the  compass.  The 
river  contains  no  islands,  and  the  only  rapids  are  down  below 
Selkirk  settlement.  A  fine  steamboat  navigation  Avill  be 
found  from  tbere  up  to  the  junction  of  the  Bois  des  Sioux,  a 
distance  of  nearly  four  hundred  miles ;  and  one  far  better 
than  that  of  the  Mississippi  above  St.  Anthony.  We  passed 
by  the  mouths  of  a  number  of  small  streams,  viz.,  the  Red 
Grass,  Marias,  Gratiaro,  &c.,  which  all  resemble  deep  crooked 
ditches,  and  pour  out  additional  quantities  of  thick,  dark  mud- 
colored  Avater,  the  washings  of  the  rich  and  fertile  prairies, 
now  blooming  Avith  numerous  flowers,  through  Avhich  they 
flow. 

This  is  a  splendid  evening,  the  finest  we  have  had  for  a  long 
time ;  the  sur^  is  setting  beautifully  into  the  bosom  of  the  far- 
off"  prairie,  as  it  Avere,  Avhile  all  Nature  is  calm,  still,  and  com- 
posed ;  the  silence  only  broken  by  the  dipping  of  our  paddles, 
the  occasional  chirping  of  a  bird,  and  the  rapid  rising  of  the 
scared  Avild  foAvl  from  out  the  smooth,  calm  surface  of  the  wa- 
ter as  we  approach.  We  halted  at  sunset,  about  forty  miles 
distant  from  Pembina,  and  have  a  good  camp  in  a  thick  Avoods, 
Avhere  the  only  draAvback  to  our  comfort  is  the  mosquitoes,  Avhich 


% 


\m  ki 


TI1I<:    OUTWARD   MAECn. 


285 


are  as  usual  extremely  annoying  to  us.     The  warm  sun  to-day 
unfortunately  revived  them  from  the  torpid  state  in  which  the 
ate  cold  storm  had  thrown  them.     We  have  our  bar  put  up, 
tent-fashion,  the  corners  being  fastened  to  four  stakes,  and  the 
raised  apex  or  centre  is  secured  to  a  bent  pole,  which  keeps  it 
upright  and  tightly  stretched.     Our  bed  consists  of  a  robe  and 
three  blankets,  with  our  coats  and  overcoats,  &c.,  for  pillows 
T\  e  are  upon  an  old  camping-ground,  where  two  hundred  and 
htty  cords  of  wood  has  been  cut  and  piled  around  for  the  use 
of  the  settlements  below  this  winter.     The  night  is  very  clear 
and  fine,  the  face  of  heaven  is  smiling  amid  myriads  of  twink- 
ling stars;  the  northern  horizon  is  lit  up  with  the  rays  and 
dancing  beams  of  an  aurora,  while  the  woods  and  silent  flow- 
ing  river  are  illuminated  by  our  camp-fire  ;  our  voyageurs  are 
fast  asleep  upon  the  ground  before  us,  and  not  a  sound  is 
heard,  save  that  of  the  crackling,  leaping  flames  and  the  low 
tone  of  our  own  voices  as  we  chat  merrily.     And  nov/  as  my 
companion  reads  a  chapter  in  his  French  pocket-bible,  and  I 
pencil  down  these  sketches  of  fact  and  fancy  by  the  light  of 
the  burning  fagots  — but  hark!  we  have  company  it  seems, 
and  are  not  so  lonely  as  I  thought— that  was  the  hoot-owl's 
cry;  and  sounds  like  the  wailings  of  a  fiend  in  misery  — t/iat 
was  the  cry,  long  drawn  out  and  dismal,  of  a  distant  wolf; 
and  now  they  are  heard  yelping  and  barking  furiously,  like  a 
pack  of  hungry  curs.     And  what  was  that— more  unearthly 
than  the  fierce  war-whoop,  which  almost  fi-eezes  the  young, 
warm  blood,  and  turns  the  stout,  athletic  frame  to  stone  1   Was 
it  a  "  demon-spirit  or  goblin  damned,"  or  the  mere  howling  of 
the  rising  wind,  the  precursor  of  another  storm,  I  see  arising 
in  the  distant  horizon  !     Ha !  I  see  two  gleaming,  fiery  eye- 
balls in  the  thicket  of  the  underbrush  :  •'  Take  that,  to  light 
you  to  better  quarters;"  I  hurl  a  blazing  fire-brand  toward  the 
varmint,  who,  with  another  dismal  cry,  leaves  us  to  quietness, 
and  to  repose  and  sleep. 

Thursday,  18th.— A  fine,  clear,  beautiful  day ;  cold  early 
in  the  morning,  and  warm  through  the  day,  with  a  pleasant 
breeze  ;  the  storm  has  blown  over  for  tbe  present.  We  were 
up  and  away  at  daylight,  stopping  several  hours  to  dine  and 


n 


286 


SKETCHES   BY    A    CAMl'-KIKK. 


P 


breakfast.  Wliile  cookmg  our  morning  meal,  some  half  dozen 
liorscMnen  came  galloping  tlovvn  the  roiul  along  the  western 
bank,  and  passed  on  down  -without  calling  on  us;  they  were 
half-breeds  returning  from  the  treaty.  There  is  less  wood- 
land along  the  banks  to-day,  and  we  have  a  line  open  view  of 
the  immense  prairies  on  either  side.  Occasionally  we  pass 
hay-stacks,  enclosed  by  a  rude  fence,  to  which  the  settlers 
drive  their  cattle  in  the  winter  season,  from  the  settlement 
below. 

The  banks  are  still  very  low  and  muddy,  and  covered  with 
a  line  of  the  same  young  dead  willow.  We  camped  to-night, 
again,  on  the  top  of  a  high  bank  we  found  after  a  long  search 
till  dark  for  a  choice  spot.  It  was  covered  over  with  bushes 
and  heavy  timber,  and  alive  with  ravenous  mosquitoes.  The 
evening  is  damp  and  cloudy,  heavy  masses  of  dark  clouds  are 
rising  in  the  west,  and  a  storai  is  coming,  sure.  "We  retired 
early,  very  much  dissatisfied  at  not  reaching  the  settlements 
to-night,  which  we  ought  by  all  means  to  have  dne.  Our 
voyageurs,  howe^  ei ,  being  paid  so  much  per  day,  have  not 
hurried  themselves;  and,  besides,  oir  canoe  is  so  leaky  and 
out  of  order,  that  we  have  freque^itly  to  land,  empty  all  our 
goods  upon  the  muddy  bank,  an'l  gum  the  bottom  with  melted 
epinette.  We  are,  consequently,  about  twenty  miles  above 
Fort  Garry,  and  some  ten  miles  above  the  nearest  house,  at 
the  upper  end  of  the  Half-Breed  settlement,  which  extends 
along  both  sides  of  the  crooked  river,  in  the  shape  of  a  long 
scrpentin  village,  down  as  far  as  Fort  Garry,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Assiniboin. 

Friday,  September  19. — This  morning  we  arose  at  daylight, 
in  the  midst  of  a  dense  fog  and  mist,  wind  northeast ;  cold  and 
raw,  and  has  the  appearance  of  another  regularly  built  north- 
easter. At  five,  A.  M.,  we  started,  anxious  to  get  down  to  more 
comfortable  quarters ;  and  at  half-past  seven  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  first  houses  ;  stopped,  had  breakfast,  and  while  eating 
the  barge  came  up  with  a  large  sail  hoisted,  moving  slowly 
against  the  current,  Avithout  the  assistance  of  the  oars.  She 
contained  a  hundred  and  sixtv  bushels  of  barlev,  and  will  be 
ten  days  upon  the  trip ;  some  of  the  men  being  sick,  detained 


k',;r. 


TIIE   OUTWARD   MARCH. 


287 


them  longer  than  they  shouhl  have  been.     Wo  then  prococ.lcrl 
on  down  the  river,  in  the  face  of  a  heavy  gale  of  wind,  and 
huge  rolhng  waves,  nearly  all  the  balance  of  the  day,  althongh 
the  distance  by  land  was  but  nine  miles  to  Fort  Garry      As 
we  were  much  retarded,  we  at  length  deserted  our  voyagonrs 
and  canoe,  and  taking  to  the  shore,  we  walked  on  down  the 
settlements  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  at  times  followir.g  a 
good  road  along  the  river,  and  then  taking  a  near  cut  through 
the  woods  from  point  to  point,  and  cutting  off'  the  bends.    Affor 
.  iosing  ourselves  several  times,  and  only  finding  our  way  with 
considerable  search  and  difficulty,  we  finally  arrived  opposite 
he  fort  at  three,  P.  M.,  heartily  fatigued  and  glad  to  rest  at 
the  house  of  M.  Narcisse  Marion,  a  French-Canadian,  and  the 
father-in-law  of  N.  W.  Kittson,  Esq.     We  found  him  very 
kmd,  hospitable,  and  communicative,  and  anxious  to  hear  the 
news  from  above;  i.  e.  from  Pembina.  St.  Paul,  and  elsewhere. 
In  an  hour  our  boat  arrived,  and  we  then  proceo,l(Ml  on  down 
to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Alexander  Ross,  on  the  west  side  of 
Red  river,  and  about  a  mile  below.     The  old  gentlemen  met 
us  on  the  bank,  welcomed  us  to  Selkirk,  and  escorted  us  up  to 
his  house  ;  a  white,  rough-cast,  two  story  stone,  which  stands 
upon  a  large  bend  of  the  river,  and  commands  a  view  both 
ways;  and  that  view  is  certainly  the  finest  I  have  seen  for  a 
long,  long  time. 


«,i 


FIRST    GLANCE    AT    SELKIRK    SETTLEMENT. 

A  village  of  farmhouses,  with  barns,  stables,  hay,  ^vholxt, 
and  barley-stacks,  with  small  cultivated  fields  or  lots,  well 
fenced,  are  stretched  along  the  meandering  river,  while  the 
prairies  far  off  to  the  horizon  are  covered  over  with  herds  of 
cattle,  horses,  &c.,  the  fields  filled  with  a  busy  throng  of 
whites,  half-breeds  and  Indians— men.  squaws,  and  children 
--all  reaping,  binding,  and  stacking  the  golden  grain  ;  while 
hundreds  of  carts,  with  a  single  horse  or  ox.  harnessed  in  their 
shafts,  are  brought  in  requisition  to  carry  it  to  the  well-stored 
barn,  and  are  seen  moving,  with  their  immense  loads  rolling 
along  like  huge  stacks,  in  all  directions.     Add  to  this  the  nu- 


288 


SKETCHES   «Y    A    CAMP-FIRE. 


incrons  ■nMiul-mills,  some  in  motion  wliirling  around  their  giant 
arms,  Avliilc  others  motionless  arc  waiting  for  "  a  grist,"  Just 
above,  Fort  Garry  sits  in  the  angle  at  the  junction  of  the 
Assiniboin  and  Red  rivers,  with  a  blood-red  flag  inscribed  with 
the  letters  H.  B.  Co.,  floating  gayly  in  the  breeze.  Opposite  is 
the  catholic  cathedral,  built  of  stone  in  1832,  and  still  unfin- 
ished. The  bare,  rough,  unplastered  w«all,  in  front,  is  cracked 
and  shattered,  and  is  surmounted  by  two  steeples  ;  one  fin- 
ished, and  containing  a  chime  of  bells;  the  bare  timbers  of 
the  other  tower  aloft,  dark  Avitli  age  and  nakedness.  I  visited 
the  Miterior  this  afternoon,  and  found  a  very  spacious  nave, 
which  was  being  remodeled,  as  also  the  galleries;  and  men 
were  at  work  on  scaffolding,  painting  the  arched  ceiling  of  a 
deep  mazarene  blue,  and  ornamenting  it  with  wreaths  and 
festoons  of  flowers ;  the  work,  so  far  as  completed,  is  done  in 
a  very  artist-like  manner.  A  mimber  of  priests  reside  upon 
the  spot ;  a  large  frame  convent  painted  red  adjoins  it  on  the 
south,  and  the  congregation  is  composed  princijially  of  half- 
breeds  from  up  Red  river. 

For  a  distance  of  two  miles  up  tlio  Assiniboin  river,  to  the 
west,  are  seen  the  farms  and  dwellings  of  the  pensioners; 
the  former  well  fenced  and  cultivated,  the  latter  of  frame  and 
logs,  one  story  high,  mostly  rough-cast,  or  white-washed  over, 
with  gardens,  &c.,  attached,  and  comfort  and  plenty  attend- 
ing and  smiling  around  them.  Many  other  objects  of  interest 
worthy  of  notice  strike  the  eye,  but  the  above  suflfices  for  a 
first  glance  at  Selkirk.  The  scene  that  has  met  my  eyes  this 
afternoon,  has  become  daguerreotyped  upon  my  optics,  never 
to  be  effaced.  As  I  saw  thee  to-day,  Selkirk,  so  shall  1  al- 
ways see  thee ;  and  to  the  latest  hour  of  my  existence,  thy 
beauties,  as  faintly  portrayed  above,  will,  to  my  mind's  eye, 
at  least,  remain  indelibly  imprinted.  We  spent  the  night  with 
Mr.  Ross  and  family,  and  found  him  to  be  a  very  intelligent 
and  interesting  old  gentleman,  full  of  information  as  regards 
this  northwest  region,  and  of  Selkirk  colony  in  particular.  He 
has  published  a  book  descriptive  of  the  country  west  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  Vancouver's,  and  the  Pacific  coast,  where 
he  spent  some   fifteen  years  of  his  life,  prior  to  182.'>,  since 


THI'J    ulTWAKt)   MAUCH. 


289 


lie 


«!.cn  1,0  Ims  been  resi.li„R  i„  iMs  clony,  a,„l  has  been  for 
a  iong  time  one  of  its  lending  citizens 

Saturday,  20tli.-Clou.ly,  raw,  and  eold,  most  of  the  .lav  • 

very  unpleasant  out  of  doors  ,  but  as  my  time  here  is  precious', 

p  I  pa.d  no  attention  to  it.     What  is  wind  or  weather  to  a  man 

but  tin ee  short  days  to  stay,  now  that  he  is  here,  and  that,  too, 
m  the  very  centre  of  the  continent,  and  a  whole  month's  march 
of  twenty  miles  per  day  to  the  west  of  sundown  ?  Spent  the 
day  m  V  siting  around  the  settlement;  called  at  Fort  Garry, 
and  made  the  acquaintance  of  Major  Caldwell,  «  Uighlan.l 

tamihes  of  pensioners  sent  out  by  the  British  government 

2lTlf-  f^'V"""*'  "  ™''^  ■'°"='""'  Semleml,,  whTi;  s 
chaige  of  the  Bay  Company's  post  here  at  the  fort.  Dr.  Cowan, 

fort  iftT^fi      f  °^'  '"""'  "'"'  L"e'-"'' J'-i'"--    Close  by  the 
fort  .s  the  fine  large  mansion-house- of  Mr.  M'Dermott,  a  very 
wealthy  Irish  gentleman,  who  came  out  to  the  colony  in  1818 
M  he  was  one  of  the  pioneers,  a  free,  good,  hearty,  socialde' 
gentleman  an  every  man's  man,  who  has  an  open  house  for 
iuend  or  stranger,  I  paid  my  compliments  to  him,  and  to  his 
on..n-Iaw,  J^-.  Ballantine,  a  very  polite  and  friendly  pe™  ,! 
age  as  are  all  I  met.    Here  I  met  a  number  of  the  tL  ladi.-s 
0    the  settlement ;  ladies  of  much  beauty,  educated  and  J. 
complislied  and  of  some  fortune,  I  am  told.     Wine  was  passed 
around,  and  much  pleasant  conversation  indulged  in ;  and  I 
a  stranger,  found  myself  almost  at  home.     Who  cou  d  leave 
neli  company  ?    I  could  not,  and  the  consequence  of   1 1" 
hat  I  found  myself  up,  and  in  a  very  lively  mood,  till  aftr' 
the  witching  time  of  night,  in  close  confab  with-,/,   oldZZ 
tkman,  all  about  the  colony,  in  which  we  discussed  its  aftfh, 
past   present,  and  prospective,  at  great  length.     Mr   M  ]    j! 
mo  t  can  talk  more  and  faster  than  any  half  do,„„  men  I  etr 
met  before  and  would  ".avo  regaled  me  till  the  early  datrto 
moi-row    without  tiring.     I  had  also  the  honor  to  n  eelUd 
make  the  acquaintance  of  Recorder  Thorn,  forme  V"  1  tor 

Ml.  J  horn  ,s  „  leading  man  here,  and  is  very  active,  energetic. 


I    '    - 

I,  J 


Jy\ 


•I   '.a 


ir!i ; 
Hi 


290 


SKinXJHKS    BY    A    CAMP-FIUK. 


,1    ■  1 


and  possessed  of  consldcralilo  talent.  He  is  at  present  tlio 
clerk  of  tlie  court,  at  a  salary  of  .^T/iO  per  annum,  tliongh  lie  is 
not  allowed  to  act  as  SJicli,  or  enter  the  coiu't,  so  ol)jcctiona])le 
is  he  to  the  half-breed  ])opulation  ;  and  an  editorial  ])nbli8hed 
in  the  Ilvidhl,  during  the  Canadian  troubled  in  1837,  it  seems 
lias  arrayed  the  French-Canadians,  too,  in  deadly  hostility 
against  his  person.  Numerous  threats  have  been  made  against 
him  ;  and  his  life  heretofore,  at  times,  has  not  been  safe.  Away 
with  politics,  however;  I  did  not  intend  to  touch  on  this;  and 
so,  kind  reader,  a  good  night  to  you.  "  The  iron  tongne  of 
midnight  has  tolled  twelve,"  and  I'll  see  Selkirk  shovelled  off 
down  Ked  river,  an  island  made  of  it  in  the  very  centre  of  Lake 
Winnepeg,  before  I  will  write  another  word  to-night. 

Sunday,  21st.  —  The  weather  this  morning  is  cloudy,  with  a 
Scotch  mist  at  times;  afternoon  warm,  clear,  and  jileasant.  I 
started  this  morning  on  horseback,  in  company  with  ^\\\  Bal- 
lintine,  to  see  a  portion  of  the  lower  settlement,  down  Red 
river.  "Wo  rode  over  a  good  road,  about  one  hundred  yards  in 
width,  which  extends  to  the  rear  of  the  line  of  houses,  a  row 
of  tive-acvc  fields  lying  in  between  ;  Avhile  on  the  river-l)ank, 
in  front,  there  is  nothing  but  a  footpath.  The  English  and 
Scotch  portions  of  the  settlements  extend  in  a  continuous  vil- 
lage along  both  banks,  folloAving  all  the  turns  of  the  crooked 
river,  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  Fort  Garry,  a  distance  of 
twenty  miles.  The  latter  is  called  the  stone  fort,  is  much  the 
largest  and  best,  and  is  the  residence  of  Governor  Oolville  of 
Prince  Rupert's  Land.  Below  this  fort  an  Indian  village  ex- 
tends for  miles  ;  while  up  the  Assiniboin,  scattered  settlements 
of  pensioners  and  half-breeds  stretch  along  to  White-Horse 
plain,  a  distance  of  some  twenty-five  miles ;  making  in  all  an 
extended  settlement  of  whites,  half-breeds,  and  Indians,  of 
nearly  seventy  miles,  and  comprising  a  population  of  Avhites 
and  half-breeds  of  some  six  thousand  souls.  Wc  rode  down 
about  ten  miles,  to  the  middle  or  log  church ;  the  other  two, 
one  of  which  is  of  stone,  are  situated  at  each  end  of  the  Eng- 
lish settlement,  near  the  forts,  so  that  no  one  has  to  travel  over 
a  distance  of  five  miles  to  some  one  of  the  three :  quite  a  de- 
sideratum in  the  winter,  when  the  thermometer  is  down  to 


TITIC    on  WARD    MARCH. 


291 


forty-five  and  ^y  degrees  l.elow  zero  !     Tl.eso  elmrclies  nnj 
episcopalian,  are  large  and  con,n,o(li„us,  and  are  surmounted 
with  high  steeples,  each  containing  a  sweet-toned  bell      The 
officiating  ministers  are  Bishop  Anderson,  Rev.  John  Chapman, 
and  others,  all  of  whom  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  becoming 
acquainted  with.     The  congregations  are  large  and  respecta 
ble,  and  would  prove  creditable  to  any  western  settlement  in 
the  states.     I  met  the  people  on  their  way  to  church  to-day- 
some  on  foot,  some  in  carts,  and  others  in  more  stylish  vehi- 
cle,^,  all  well  dressed  and  happy  looking. 
^    l^iey  appear  to  have  all  the  creature-comforts,  and  to  revel 
in  abundance.     Each  farmer  has  a  frontage  of  six  chains  upon 
the  river,  which  extends  back  two  miles,  though  little  of  it  to 
the  west  of  the  main  road  is  cultivnted;  the  fertile  prairies, 
carpeted  over  with  wild-flowers,  lying  a  beautiful  and  unprofit- 
able  waste,  save  for  grazing  purposes,  and  a  portion  of  its  an- 
nual  crop  of  wild  hay. 

We  returned  at  two,  P.  M.,  and  dined  at  the  upper  fort,  with 
Dr.  Cowan,  and  Messrs.  Pelley,  Landee,  and  Logan.     This 
evening  we   took  a  stroll  up  the  Assiniboin,  along  the  north 
bank,  among  the  pensioners.     Thirteen  families  reside  within 
the  fort ;  the  balance  are  stationed  for  two  miles  up  the  river : 
those  nearest  having  twenty  acres  of  land  under  cultivation] 
the  others  forty  acres.     All  the  duties  incumbent  upon  them 
toward  the  government  are,  to  appear  on  parade  each  Sunday, 
and  to  drill  twelve  times  a  year.     I  therefore  saw  them  at 
home  with  their  families,  and  out  strolling  along  the  river,  all 
in  their  uniform.     Although  much  better  off  than  they  ever 
could  be  at  home,  yet  I  am  told  they  are  great  grumblers,  and 
are  very  much  dissatisfied  with  their  condition,  and  very  unre- 
liable  as  a  police  force  in  case  of  an  emergency. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  ladies  of  the  fort  this 
evening;  and  although  they  are  from  the  Orkney  isles,  a  rude 
region  amid  the  inhospitable  northern  seas,  yet  they  will  com- 
pare favorably  with  any  I  have  ever  met  amid  the  fashionable 
life  of  an  eastern  city. 

Monday,  22d.  — Cloudy  and  very  damp  early  in  the  morning. 
It  cleared  off  soon,  however,  and  remained  bright,  clear,  and 


202 


SKKTCHKS    BY    A    CAMl'-KIKK 


it 


II  1 

If      '''I 


wiiriii,  and  now  at  last  s<uMns  like  a  (leli-jflitfiil  Indian  summer. 
After  Imyinpj  np  all  tlio  liall-iirtuul  and   Indian  curiositieH,  and 
evcrjtliing  else  of  interest  1  could  find,  1  bade  adieu  to  every- 
■    body;   wrote  a  lui  ty  letter  to  the  people  of  St.  I'aul,  by  an 
express  which  starts  Immediately  ;   dined  once  more  with  the 
very  clever  fellows  at  the  fort,  and  then  with  much  reluctance 
started  homeward.    And  now,  in  leavinj,'  this  hospitable  colony, 
I  desire  to  pay  this  tribute  to  its  people.     Amid  all  my  wan- 
derings over  this  earth  of  ours,  I  have  never  been  more  kindly 
treated,  nor  made  the  friendship  of  a  more  whole-souled  jieo- 
ple ;   I  have  never  in  so  short  a  time  become  so  much  attached 
to  any  place,  nor  left  it  with  one  half  the  keen  regret,  I  now 
do  this.     As  I  pass  slowly  along  the  lonely  road  that  leads  mo 
from  thee,  Selkirk,  mine  eyes  do  turn  continually  to  gaze  upon 
thy  smiling,  golden  fields,  and  thy  lofty  towers  now  burnished 
"witii  the  rays  of  the  departing  sun  ;   while  the  sweet  vesper- 
bell  reverberates  afar,  and  strikes  so  mournfully  pleasant  upon 
mine  ear.     I  feel  satisfied  that,  though  absent  thousands  of 
weary  miles,  my  thoughts  will  always  dwell  on  thee  with  rap- 
turous emotion. 

Pembina,  Thursday,  25th.  — Cloudy,  with  rain,  thunder,  and 
lightning,  in  the  afternoon.  I  reached  here  yesterday  even- 
ing, stiff"  and  sore  from  the  long  march  of  seventy  miles ;  and 
found  that  most  of  our  party  had  started  down  Red  river,  on 
Monday  morning  last,  in  two  canoes,  with  eight  Bois  BruUs  in 
each.  As  I  came  by  land,  I  missed  them  all.  The  treaty  was 
'•'included  on  Saturday  evening  last,  having  occupied  all  the 
ek.  The  Indians  and  half-breeds  have  all  left. 
Friday,  26th. —  Cloudy,  cold,  and  windy  from  the  north; 
very  unpleasant.  Mr.  Kittson's  ten  carts  started  for  the  fall 
hunt  of  buff'alo,  and  will  wait  for  the  balance  of  the  party  at 
the  mountain  till  our  arrival  next  week  —  at  which  place  the 
governor  promised  to  meet  and  speak  to  the  assembled  half- 
breeds.  The  brother  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Tanner  arrived  from  the 
plains  yesterday,  with  his  cart  surmounted  with  an  immense 
pair  of  elk-horns,  which  we  intend  to  take  with  us  to  St.  Paul. 
They  ai-e  the  largest  I  have  ever  seen,  have  some  ten  prongs, 
and  measure  about  five  feet  from  point  to  point.     Although 


THB   OUTWARD   MARCH. 


203 


Tnnncr  is  a  linlf-brcod,  nnd  dressos  like  them,  he  ranks  as  a 
chief  among  the  Chippovvas,  and  slionld  have  been  present  at 
the  treaty.  lie  says  he  kept  away  on  purpose,  apprehend- 
ing difficulty :  a  wily  sort  of  politician  in  Indian  tactics,  it. 
seems,  like  some  of  our  own  vole-dodgers.  He  is  a  very  tall, 
muscular,  and  active  fellow,  with  a  very  dark  complexicn,' 
long,  dark  hair,  and  black  eyes,  and  is  from  forty-five  to  fifty 
years  of  age. 

He  is  one  of  Mn  Kittson's  most  successful  and  reliable  hunt- 
ers, and  brings  in  annually  about  five  hundred  dollars'  worth 
of  furs.  Unlike  the  rest,  he  is  very  careful  and  prudent  of  his 
money,  rather  close  in  his  dealings,  strictly  honest,  with  an 
aversion  to  getting  in  debt. 

He  has  a  family,  consisting  of  an  Indian  wife  and  half  a 
dozen  children,  who  accompany  him  upon  his  hunts,  and  spend 
the  winters  out  on  the  Missouri  plains,  and  along  the  Aseini- 
boin,  inside  of  the  British  line.  He  left  to-day  for  the  Mount- 
ain and  Selkirk  settlement,  to  get  such  of  his  supplies  as  were 
not  to  be  obtained  at  this  place ;  his  brother,  the  Rev.  James 
Tanner,  accompanying  him. 

I  feel  much  interested  in  them,  on  account  of  their  father, 
John  Tanner,  whose  own  published  narrative  I  expect  to  have 
the  pleasure  of  reading,  and  of  whose  history  I  have  read  an 
interesting  sketch  in  Major  Long's  second  expedition  to  these 
regions,  besides  gleaning  considerable  verbal  information  from 
different  persons  here  concerning  him. 

Saturday,  27th.-- A  fair,  clear,  and  very  pleasant  day;  the 
sun  warm,  atmosphere  hazy,  and  a  pleasant  breeze  prevailing 
—regular  Indian  summer,  superlatively  fine  in  the  forty-ninth 
degree.  Things  are  very  dull  here  at  present,  and  all  hands 
long  to  be  oflP. 

The  dragoons  are  busy  cleaning  up  carbines,  pistols,  knives, 
&c.,  and  getting  ready  for  the  homeward  march,  and  lots  of 
buffalo-cows  and  bear.  Some  twenty-five  lodges  of  Indians 
are  still  present,  "  loafing"  around  by  day,  and  singing  and 
dancing  all  night  bng,  beating  drums,  and  making  the  dark 
ness  generally  as  hideous  as  night  was  ever  made. 

The  Red-lake  Indians  have  all  left  for  home.    They  are  a 


(sfe'li 


2D4 


SKKTCiriCH    HY    A    CAMl'-irUK. 


better  niul  i.ioro  provident  dnnn,  it  Hccins,  niul  raise  large  quan- 
titles  of  corn,  potatocH,  pumpkins,  &c.,  while  their  niissionarieB 
grow  winter  and  spring  wheat  in  perfection.  Tljo  llev.  J.  P 
IJardwell,  the  agent  for  the  Oberlin  board  of  missions,  and  Rev.* 
S.  G.  Wright,  who  is  stationed  at  Red  Lake,  left  hero  for  that 
place  on  Monday  last,  they  having  been  down  to  Selkirk  for 
some  stock-cattle.  Red  lake  is  about  one  hundred  miles  to 
the  southeast  of  Pembina,  ar.d  is  in  latitude  forty-eight  degrees 
—  being  far  to  the  north  and  west  of  Lake  Itasca,  the  source 
oi  the  Mississippi. 

Sunday,  JiSth.  — Another  fine,  clear,  beautiful  day ;  the  mer- 
cury rose  to  seventy-two  degrees.  I  am  told  there  was  ice 
this  morning,  though  I  did  not  see  it.  The  first  frost  in  this 
valley,  north  of  the  line,  occurred  on  the  morning  of  the  24th, 
and  it  was  a  very  heavy  one.  I  gathered  wild-flowers  in  the 
gardens  at  Selkirk,  two  days  previously,  in  latitude  fifty  de- 
grees. 

I  took  a  ride  to-day  into  her  majesty's  possessions,  and  calljd 
at  tlio  Hudson  Bay  Company's  post  just  across  the  line.  Spent 
some  hours  ^■ery  pleasantly  with  the  employers,  who  are  in  the 
♦'  service,"  as  they  term  it.  The  party  of  Bois  BruUs,  sixteen 
in  number,  who  accompanied  the  governor's  party  down  the 
liver,  returned  by  land  this  morning,  with  their  canoes  on  carts. 
They  left  on  Thursday,  and  reported  that  his  excellency  and 
suite  would  be  here  to-ni^-ht.  They  did  not  come,  and  to  pre- 
vent our  disappointment  w^e  were  treated  to  another  brilliant 
display  of  aurora  borealis,  almost  equal  to  the  one  described 
on  the  6th  instant. 

Monday,  29th.— Cloudy,  foggy,  and  misty,  till  ten,  A.  M.; 
the  rest  of  the  day  warm  and  fine.  The  merciM;  rnso  to  sev- 
enty-seven degrees. 

Hugh  Tyler  and  Lieutenant  Corley  arrived  on  panting  and 
foaming  steeds,  at  ten,  A.  M.,  having  rode  from  the  Riviere 
Gratiaro,  thirty  miles,  since  six,  A.  M.  The  governor.  Dr. 
Foster,  and  guide,  arrived  an  hour  after.  They  left  Fort 
Garry  on  Saturday  afternoon ;  camped  out  two  nights  by  the 
■way;  'la  i  a  tent  and  cart,  plenty  of  provisions,  and  got  along 
right  pleasantly.     They  were  much  pleased  with  the  place 


a 
k 

il 


P 
h 


THIi   OUTWAKl)   MAHCII. 


295 


nm  pcop  0.  nnd  wore  foaHied  to  perfection -wcro  nln.oHt 
killca  with  kin.lncHH,  and  are  Htill  fiufloiing  from  tl.o  efTocts  of 
If.  I  find  tl.ey  wore  nearly  aH  inucli  pleased  with  everything 
they  saw  as  I  was  rryself,  and  were  nmdo  perfect  lions  of.  com- 
paring their  reception  to  that  of  old  Kent.icky  and  Virginia 
liospitalitics  of  iifty  yoai-s  ago. 


296 


SKKTCllIW    IJY    A    CAM1»-FIKK. 


i    II 


I  ll 


CITAPTKU  II. 


'I'llK    IIOMKWAIII)    MAIlCir. 


luKsnAv,  RnPT.  no.-Wo  nro  hmy  to-day  pvopnnnp  for  a 
start  liomoAvanl.  'V\w.  drngoonH  crosso.l  tlio  mouM,  of  the  J\.,n- 
bina  tins  morniiifv.  and  prococdrd  a  nliort  distance  on  tl.o  ofl.er 
Bido,  and  canij.od,  to  await  tlio  arrival  of  tl.o  barley  from  Sel- 
kirk, which  is  all  that  detains  ns  now. 

An  Indian  talk  and  conncil  came  off  this  morninf^  in  our 

_.onse  between  the  governor  and  an  old  Indian  named  "(Mear 

Weather,"  one  of  the  dissatisfied  party  who  refused  to  sign 

the  treaty.     Ho   camo   in  .sa,i,f  aranmiic,  followed   l,y  about 

tiinty  oti.ers,  all  smoking,  and  affecting  great  dignity.     Mr 

lanncr  was  sent  for,  to  act  as  interpreter;   and,  after  an  im- 

prcssivo  silence,  the  great  orator  deigned  to  speak.     He  was 

short  of  breath,  bo  said,  and  could  not  sj.eak  as  l.o  wanted  to, 

but  such  as  it  was  ho  gave  freely  and  without  restraint.     Ho 

md  many  faults  to  ii„d.  and  many  (,uestions  to  ask,  stating 

that  ho  had  been  sick,  and,  if  well  at  the  time  of  the  t.vatv  it 

would  not  have  been  formed,  &c. 

lyruch  other  talk  to  the  same  purpose  followed  this,  and  tho 
governor  then  replied  in  a  long  exj.lanatory  speech,  to  which 
the  Indian  rejoined  by  wanting  at  Icnnt  fivo  .swa//o?rs  of  ^m-af. 
a2>mr ^thm  falling  at  once  I'rom  the  sublime  to  the  ridiculous, 
and  showing  the  object  of  tho  visit  to  bo  a  begging-expedition 
jiiul  no  more  !  Wo  having  no  beef  left,  gave  them  a  lot  of  to- 
bacco, and  so  broke  up  tho  conference  — the  dignitaries  (b.- 
partmg,  after  sliaking  hands  all  round,  and  ai.parontly  well 
satisfied  witli  their  success.  This  scene  occupied  an  hour,  and 
Its  pn„c.])al  effect  was  to  retard  our  dinner  just  that  nmch,  the 
council  being  in  our  dining-room. 


M  ' 


IIIK    IIOMKVVAUI)    AlAltOH. 


297 


TV  .:..N,.:,s,..v.  Orr.  I.-Oo,,!  wcaM.or,  witl.  n  nnnstonn  ,  wind 
woHt.  Husy  w.MKlnnK  u,mI  prcparinf?  o„r  freight,  unci  l,,,KLn.Ko, 
nnd  ;^,.t,t.nf,.   muly  l\n-  u  .f..t   lM>,newa.d.     TIm,  vnri.  nr,  nil 

on«:od  .•in,    .ont,  ov.r  .1.,,   IN.nl.ina,  fof.,.nH.r  witl.  M.o  I.or.s.s. 

vll  n.a.ly  lor  a  «tnrt  to-n.orrow.  Tim  ovcuinf.  !«  wil.l  n.ul 
tcn,,c.Hfuo„„.  w.th  rain;  ().<,  l.owlin^^  winds  sound  .lisnwtlly. 
nnd  arc  pr.,f,M.c,Ht.cs  of  M.o  ai,,„-oacI.  ui'  rndo,  ronj;!.  winf.r  It 
•s  t.n.o  wo  wcro  off  for  tl..  ,Uy  of  St.  ]>a,.I.  Wo  ^>.u.H  fine 
vvoan.cr  yot,  uh  tl.o  Indian  Hun.nu.r  \h  to  cn.o.  Wo  a.v  woll 
l-l-ml  nt  all  poin.s  to  n.ako  <...r  jou.-noy  ploanant ;  I.nvo  a 
l^ood  stock  of  j.rov.s.ons,  wl.id.,  witl.  plonty  of  buflalo-cow  and 
l"^'.-u-,  Will  Irast  UH  most  l..xn.iously.      W(,||.  u  ,,  ,  ,,;       ,i„„ 

Ava.  H  on  apj.ct.to,  and  l.caitl.  on  both."  Wo  an,  all  in.provin. 
i'.Mdy  and  l.opo  for  a  still  ,dcasa,.tcr  journoy  l.on.eward  tl.a.i 
■vvo  had  whon  outward  hound. 

TM„us„Ay,2.1.~Woath,.r  cloudy,  cold,  an.l  windy;  vorv 
raw  and  ho.ston.us  from  tho  ..o.-th.  A  vo.-y  ^.>od  hi,.t  for  us 
to  ho  upon  our  southorn  n.arch.  Wo  took  it,  and  loft  ms^anfn; 
aftor  a  thrco-wcoks'  losidoncc  at  I'on.hina  and  Hdkirk  8ottlo- 
iiiont. 

Clovornor  Uan.soy,  M.-.  Tyl,.,-,  Dr.  Fosto.-,  I'io.To  JJottinoau, 
nccon.pan.ed  hy  Mr.  N.  W.Kittson  and  Charlos  Caviloo.-.  Ksq 
Joft  for  tho  ]»on.hina  mountain,  or  new  town  of  Ht  Jmvuh 
thirty  miles  to  tho  west,  on  ]'emlu.,a  river.     Thoy  expect  to 
meet  there  tho  assembled  half-hreod  hunters,  who  are  about 
«tart...{,r  on  their  huflalo-hunts,  and  afterwa.-d  rejoin  us  at  our 
Hocond  night's  can.p,  on  Tongue  rive.-.     The  d.agoons  a.,d  tho 
balance  of  our  party,  with  the  ca.-fs,  a.-o  also  oH;a..d  aie  din.lv 
seen  far  a^^ayupon  the  p.-ai.-ie.     J  an.  alone  in  the  deserted 
camp;  a  Hol.ta.y  half-breed  hunter  holds  my  horse,  as,  lying 
by  tho  blazing  lire,  1  write  these  random  sketches,  and  .un.i- 
nato  for  a  long,  long  tiu.e.     Jiut  1  must  j.ut  np  book  and  pencil 
and  away,     dood-by,  my   ]on(dy  half-bre(Ml  — good-by.  Pem- 
hina :  I  shall  never,  perhaps,  set  foot  within  your  bounds  again  • 
and  although  I  have  aln.ost  left  my  heait  at  H(dkirk,  far  be- 
yond thee,  1  still  turn  gladly  with  my  back  to  the  ru<le  ..orfh 
blasts,  and  look  forwai'd  to  a  meeting  with  ohhu-,  warmer,  uj.d 
truer  .southeiii  friends,  to  whom  1  haste...     Adios! 


\ 


'ii 
I  Ml 


'  lit 


'.   if: 


I  . 


I 


298 


SKETCHKS    BY    A    CAMP-FIRB. 


Our  party  is  increased  by  tlic  addition  of  M.  Lecombe,  a 
young  catholic  priest,  who  has  been  living  at  St.  Joseph  Avith 
M.  Belcourt,  and  is  now  on  his  way  to  Montreal  via  St.  Paul 
and  the  states.  He  messes  with  us,  and  is  a  very  agreeable 
and  accomplished  young  fellow.  George  Morrison,  a  Pem- 
bina half-breed,  also  accompanies  us  to  Crow-Wing.  As  we  re- 
turn over  the  same  route  we  came,  I  will  not  deseribe  the 
every-day  affairs  of  our  camp-life  as  minutely  as  when  on  our 
outward  march,  nor  say  anything  further  of  the  country.  I 
have  doubted  the  propriety  of  describing  our  homeward  route 
at  all ;  T  will  therefore  be  brief. 

Sunday,  5th.  — Nothing  worthy  of  note  thus  far.     I  rode  in 
the  carriage  to-day  by  way  of  change,  my  horse  being  lame, 
and  read  "  Simpson's  Arctic  Discoveries."     We  are  now  near 
the  spot  where  the  tragic  scene  occurred  which  ended  in  his 
death  and  the  murder  of  two  of  his  companions,  June  U,  1840. 
I  have  felt  much  interest  in  the  narrative  of  the  unfortunate 
man,  and  his  untimely  death.     It  appears  that  while  on  his 
return  to  the  states,  with  the  news  of  his  arctic  discoveries,  he 
became  deranged  from  over-excitement  on  the  subject  of  his 
explorations,  and  in  a  fit  of  madness  shot  two  of  his  voyageurs 
and  then  committed  suicide,     lie  was  on  his  way  to  London, 
at  the  time,  to  communicate  with  the  admiralty  department  ;* 
but  his  remains  now  sleep  amid  these  quiet  scenes— his  lowly 
grave  is   roamed   over  by  the  fierce,  wild  buffalo— and  his 
requiem  is  nightly  sung  by  howling  wolves.     Peace  to  his 
ashes ! 

Monday,  6th.— Most  beautiful  weather.  To-day  we  have 
set  fire  to  the  prairies  by  accident  in  getting  dinner.  The 
dragoons  ahead  have  done  the  same,  and  the  strong  win* 
bears  it  back  on  us  with  astonishing  rapidity  ;  we  are  enveloped 
in  immense  clouds  of  „moke,  through  which  we  travelled  all 
the  afternoon— the  fire  roaring  all  around  and  under  our  feet 
Decidedly  hot  and  uncomfortable.  On  taking  out  my  ther- 
mometer  to-night  I  found  it  broken.  We  will  now  have  to 
depend  on  our  own  feelings  for  the  state  of  the  temperature 
hereafter— or  elso  on  the  small  sj^irit  thermometers  wliich  are 
earned  in  the  pockets  of  some  of  the  party. 


THB   HOMKWAKD   MARCH. 


299 


through 


TuK8DA\,  7th.— -The  sun  rose  red  and  fie 

morning's  misty  haze,  and  appeared  to  be  of „ 

perfect  dome,  like  that  of  the  capitol  at  Washington— it  "was 
extremely  beautiful. 

This  morning,  when  near  Goose  river,  we  discovered  our 
first  two  buffalo,  about  a  mile  to  the  left  of  the  road.  The 
dragoons  gave  chase  to  one,  and  killed  him  after  a  long  run. 
At  noon  our  hunters,  who  had  been  on  a  scout  ahead,  retmned 
with  the  tongues  and  a  portion  of  the  flesh  of  five  buffalo  they 
had  just  killed,  and  reported  large  droves  ahead.  We  of  course  ' 
had  the  meat  for  dinner,  broiled  and  fried,  besides  pork  and 
ham,  potatoes,  coffee,  etc.;  in  fact,  a  first-rate  dinner.  We  are 
certainly  living  on  the  fat  of  the  land,  though  as  far  as  the 
buffalo  are  concdVned,  it  is  decidedly  the  lean  kind  of  the 
prairie  — the  flesh  being  both  lean  and  tough  — as  we  find 
nothing  but  bulls  — the  cows  at  this  season  of  the  year  being 
all  to  themselves,  and  undisturbed  by  their  brutisli  lords. 

After  dinner  we  soon  came  among  the  buffalo,  and  found 
large  numbers  along  both  sides  of  the  road.  We  immediately 
darted  in  among  them,  pell-mell,  each  fellow  for  himself,  and 
then  such  yelling,  shniting,  firing,  shying  of  horses,  as  their 
riders,  with  belted-waists,  and  handkerchiefs  round  their  heads, 
swayed  to  and  fro  in  their  saddles,  loading  and  firing  while  at 
full-speed,  and  in  a  manner  that  would  have  done  credit  to 
Ringgold's  flying  artillery  at  Palo  Alto. 

We  soon  had  a  number  down,  and  then  I  reined  up  on  the 
brow  of  a  hill  to  reconnoitre.  Horsemen  were  scouring  hither 
and  thither  over  the  prairie,  in  all  directions,  the  smoke  of 
their  rifles  curling  up  above  their  heads,  as,  riding  at  full 
speed,  side  and  side,  and  neck  and  neck,  with  the  savage, 
shaggy,  beasts,  pouring  in  their  broadsides  into  them,  till  one 
by  one,  the  huge  animals  went  dovn  and  bit  the  dust,  while  a 
hurrah,  and  wild,  triumphant,  shout  came  ringing  across  the 
prairie-surface,  proclaiming  the  success  of  the  elated  hunters. 
Single  buffalo,  smull  droves,  and  large  herds,  were  tearing 
around  full-speed,  occasionally  halting  to  paw  tlie  dust,  and 
Lid  defiance  to  the  pursuers.  I  helped  run  down  and  kill  my 
share  at  least.     The  last  I  ran  a  mile  or  two,  and  finally,  ho 


Ui 


soo 


SKETCHES   BY   A    CAMP-FTRE. 


took  back  toward  tlie  carts,  upon  wl.icli  he  cliarged  across  tlio 
road,  and  dashed  riglit  tlirongh  them —  their  horses  rearing 
and  plunging  Avith  affriglit.     On  he  sped,  and  on  I  followed, 
amid  the  cries  and  shouts  of  the  French  boys.     Two  horsemen 
in  advance  headed  him  off  soon  after,  when  he  turned  furiously 
at  hay,  threw  the  earth  in  the  air  in  clouds,  and  dashed  at  ua 
continually.     The  rest  of  the  party  coming  up,  we  surrounded 
him  at  a  distance  of  fifty  yards,  and  commenced  a  murderous 
attack  upon  him.     The  balls  whizzed  through  the  air,  and  ns 
each  entered  his  shaggy  side,  he  quivered  for  a  moment  and 
then  dashed  at  his  assailant,  who  turned,  of  course,  and  fled. 
After  a  dozen  shots  he  reeled  and  fell   staggering  down  the 
hill,  and  headlong  pitched  into  a  creek,  his  blood  pouring  in 
streams  from  mouth  and  nose,  and  spouting  in  jets  from  out  his 
side,  mingling  with,  and  discoloring  the  water,  so  that  it  ran, 
Hj)parently,  a  stream  of  blood  — hence  we  named  it  Bloody 
creek.     It  was  very  amusing  to  see  Jim  Lord's  horse  "  Billy 
Button,"  as  Lord  would  ride  him  up  toward  the  wounded  beast, 
till  attracting   his  attention,  the  buffalo  would  dash  at  him, 
giving  a  number  of  successive  leaps,  and  moving  stiffly  like  a 
hobbled  horse,  when  Billy  Lord  would  turn  tail  to,  and  flee. 
Thus  repeatedly  would  they  take   a  Ijcc-Ime  for  a  hundred 
yards  or  more,  leaving  nothing  but  a  yellow  streak  behind,  at 
which  tlie  spectators  laughed  immoderately.     We  killed,  in 
ftll,  about  twenty,  and  +ook  out  their  tongues,  leaving  their 
carcasses  to  the  wolves.     We  saw,  in  all,  from  five  to  ten 
thousand,  the  plains,  as  far  as  the  eye   could   reach,   being 
dotted  with  them.     At  our  camp  to-night  they  are  all  around 
us,  some  within  half  a  mile. 

Wkdmosday,  8th.— a  beautiful  warm,  clear,  day.  We  were 
up  at  daylight,  but  did  not  get  off  for  an  hour  after  sunrise, 
which  is  a  very  late  start  for  us,  and  is  caused  by  the  Frencli 
boys  all  being  up  last  night  on  guard  against  the  Indicn,,'. 
One  of  them,  who  was  sitting  by  tiie  fire  cooking  and  eatin- 
about  midnight,  was  certain  he  saw  two  Indians  in  the  road'' 
and  within  thirty  or  forty  feet  of  the  camp,  One  lay  down' 
and  appoarcd  to  be  sneaking  and  watclung,  preparatoiy  to 
flcizmg  one  of  the  horses.     The  alarm  was  given,  guns  loaded 


THE    HOMKWAUP    MARCH. 

s  primed  afrosli,  and,  after  much  talki 


801 


pistols  primed  afrosli,  and,  after  much  talking,  gesticulation, 
and  preparation  being  made  for  an  hour,  Pierre  and  all  his 
men  moved  down  the  road  a  hundred  yards  or  more,  and  then, 
like   the  king  of  France,  valiantly  marched  back  again  — 
bringing  in  all  the. horses,  and   tying  them  to  the  carts.     It 
was  clear  and  moonlight  at  the  time,  yet  my  own  opinion,  and 
that  of  our  party,  is,  that  not  an  Indian  could  be  found  within 
a  hundred  miles,  and  that  it  was  all  the  result  of  a  lively 
i.nagn.ation,   heightened    by  fear.      Pierre  was  once   chased 
through  this  very  section  of  country  by  a  gang  of  hostile  Sioux, 
and  a  1  hi.  companions  killed  and  scalped.     He  has  never  got 
over  the  fright,  and  with  the  French  boys,  and  other  half-breed 
Uiippewas,  IS  always  talking  of,  and   expecting  to  see  the 
lankton   feioux  popping  on  to  them.     We  have  had  lots  of 
buttalo  all  along  the  road  to-day,  and  have  had  some  fine  and 
very  exciting  chases.     We  killed  several  just  in  the  road,  in 
fact,  they  were  so  plenty  that  we  chased  none  except  those 
dr-ectly  in  our  path.     We  reached  ,£oose_riv_er  at  noon- 
dragoons  once  more  overtook  us.     We  all  dined  together  on 
the   high  plateau,  on  the  south  side  of  Goose  river,  and  had 
once  more  a  reunion  of  our  large  family.     This  afternoon  we 
travelled  ten  miles  and  camped  upon  the  prairie. 

Thursday,  9th.-Cloudy  and  cold,  with  a  southeast  rain- 
storm almost  all  day.  A  regular  old-fashioned  equinoctial. 
We  rose  this  morning  about  one  o'clock,  being  roused  very 
foolishly  at  that  hour— no  one  knowing  the  right  time  We 
then  had  breakf-ist,  and  Dr.  F.  and  I  started  on  ahead,  at  least 
an  hour  before  daylight,  and  still  too  dark  to  see  the  road  — 
had  to  trust  to  our  horses  altogether.  At  daylight  it  began 
raining,  and  continued  falling  rapidly  all  the  morning  We 
rode  some  four  miles,  and  then  awaited  on  the  top  of  a  long 
high,  rolling,  prairie,  tor  the  arrival  of  the  carts  and  balance 
of  the  party. 

To  amuse  the  doctor,  and  keep  our  spirits  up,  having  none 
«long  to  take  down  inwardly,  I  gave  a  gratuitous  exhibition 
on  horseback  of  the  most  pathetic  scenes  from  "Hamlet," 
'*  Ivomco  and  Juliet,"  -  Richard  III."  "  Macbeth,"  "the  Lady 
of  the  Lyon,"  and   "the  Men  of  the  Buftaloes"- varying  the 


4 


302 


SKETCHES    BY    A    CAMP-FIRE. 


fl' 


performance  with  a  specimen  of  "  Bombastes  Furioso,"  and  a 
farce  or  two,  including  tlie  ''Dead  iS//oL"  The  doctor  ap- 
proved in  tlie  proper  places,  like  a  most  excellent  critic, 
according  to  the  merits  of  the  various  parts. 

About  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  a  large  herd  of  buffalo  cows  were 
discovered  to  the  left  of  the  road  ahead,  several  miles  distant. 
Preparations   being  hastily  made  for  an  attack,  our  hunters, 
after  a  spirited  chase,  captured  five.     I'he  herd  contained  from 
one   hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty,  among  Avhich  were  a 
,  number  of  calves.     After  dinner  we  rode  on  four  miles,  and 
came  up  with  the  advance  party,  assembled  round  the  carcass 
of  one  of  the  cows,  the  meat  of  which  had  been  cut  np,  prepar- 
atory to  being  jerked  at  leisure,  and  eaten  fresh.     The   cow 
was  very  fat,  more  tender,  and  much   smaller  than  the  bulls 
killed  previously ;  also  resembled  more  closely  the  domestic 
animal.     The  portions  we  were  unable  to  carry  with  us  were 
left  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  wolves,  which  were  already  in 
sight,  attracted  by  the  scent  of  blood,  and  only  awaiting  our 
departure  to  fall  to  Avork. 

The  afternoon  was  cold  and  rainy,  chilling  us  to  the  very 
marrow ;  our  road  being  over  flat,  swampy  ground.  We 
camped  just  before  night  at  Rushnver,  in  a  grove  of  majestic 
trees  immediately  on  the  river's  bank;  the  dragoons  had 
already  camped,  and  some  one  of  our  party  had  previously 
built  a  large  fire,  by  which  we  stood  in  the  drenching  rain, 
drying  ourselves  in  front,  while  taking  a  soaking  in  the  rear. 
Our  tents  were  pitched,  horses  staked,  supper  cooked  of  buffalo 
cow-steaks,  etc.,  and  we  passed  the  night  amid  the  terrors  of 
the  elements,  and  they  made  a  time  of  it.  We  marched  a 
distance  this  day  of  twenty-five  miles,  equally  hard  upon  the 
horses  as  ourselves. 

Friday,  10th.  — Cloudy  and  cold  all  day,  and  from  eight 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  a  rain-storm.  We  should  have  remained 
camped  all  day,  instead  of  marching  ;  the  dragoons,  too,  Avere 
far  ahead  of  us.  I  walked  as  usual  several  hours,  but  finally 
took  refuge  in  the  carriage  from  the  pitiless  storm.  Wind 
strong,  and  cold  enough  for  snow.  After  proceeding  ten  miles, 
we  mired  our  horses  and  carriage  in  endeavoring  to  cross  a 


THE  HOMEWARD   MAUCn. 


303 


miicldy  stream,  and  had  to  draw  them  out  with  ropes.     We 
were  all  miserable,  and  pushed  ahead,  without  halting  for  din- 
ner, a  distance  of  six  miles,  to  the  baiiks  of  Maple  river,  wet, 
hungry,  and  cold.     Pierre  Bottineau  and  two  others  were  there 
before  us,  endeavoring  to  kindle  a  fire,  one  holding  an  um- 
brella, while  the  others  blew  the  dry  material  preparatory  to 
piling  on  the  wet  twigs  and  limbs.     To  those  who  are  unac- 
quainted with  the  mode  of  lighting  fire  upon  the  prairie  in  a 
drenching  rain,  a  description  will  be  found  interesting.     Some 
dry  Kinne-kin-nick  bark  is  generally  carried  along,  cut  very 
fine  for  the  purpose  of  smoking ;  this  being  the  Indian  and 
half-breed  substitute  for  tobacco.    A  small  portion  of  this, 
together  with  a  little  tow,  or  paper  (if  to  be  had),  is  placed  in 
as  dry  a  place  as  possible,  and  shielded  from  the  rain  by  hold- 
ing over  it  a  hat,  or  cap,  or  blanket;  some  wet  powder  is 
then  thrown  on,  together  with  a  little  of  the  dry  explosive,  and 
the  whole  ignited  with  flint  and  steel.     Fine  chips,  and  sha- 
vings of  the  dry  inside  of  a  stick  of  wood,  are  then  thrown 
on  to  the  little  pile;  and  in  a  few  minutes  a  cheerful  fire  is 
blazing  amid  the  torrent,  and  a  blaze  large  enough  to  roast  an 
ox  is  leaping  upward — on  which  each  voyageur,  as  he  comes 
up  with  his  gathered  arm-load,  throws  his  contribution,  swel- 
ling the  flames  still  higher,  then  gathers  closely  around,  Avhile 
the  steam  and  smoke  from  his  scorching  garments  ascend  in 
perfect  clouds. 

Saturday,  11th.  —  Again  cloudy  and  cold,  with  rain  and  a 
slight  snow-storm  in  the  morning;  north  wind,  and  very  disa- 
greeable. We  determined  not  to  travel  to-day,  and  lay  abed 
late  to  keep  ourselves  warm.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of  roast 
buffalo-ribs,  boiled  meat,  potatoes,  coffee,  &c.,  and  we  spent  the 
rest  of  the  day  drying  our  wet  bedding,  coats,  boots,  saddles, 
and  blankets ;  the  half-breeds  busily  occupied  cutting  up  the 
buffalo-meat,  and  jerking  it,  by  spreading  it  over  a  frame  of 
poles,  about  four  feet  from  the  ground,  and  building  fires  under- 
neath, which  were  kept  burning  day  and  night. 

We  have  had  a  storm  of  much  severity,  and  being  upon  the 
prairies,  unprotected  by  any  timber,  we  have  felt  it  in  its  full 
force.     To-night  the  sun  set  clear,  and  the  western  sky  was 


i' 


If 


301 


SKICTCIIKS    HY    A    CAMP-KIKK. 


Vu     I 


iSa. 


m 


niOHt  hnll.antly  ill.uninated.  Fine  weather  will  nndoul.toclly 
iolUnv,  the  ecu.inoctiul  being  over  now  for  certain.  Jndian 
Bunnner  will  now  return  and  resunio  its  sway,  after  this  tempo- 
rary disruption  of  the  elements. 

Herds  of  buffaloes  are  around  us  to-night,  and  have  even 
wandered  ni  among  our  horses,  close  to  camp.  We  are  obliged 
to  chase  them  out  occasionally,  for  fear  of  accidents.  Yester- 
day  atternoon  I  could  have  shot  them  from  the  carriage,  as 
ihey  crossed  the  road  continually,  often  being  within  fifty 
yards  ;  i.^leed  I  often  feared  a  herd  would  run  us  down  in  their 
mad,  lieadlong  career. 

Si/NDAv,  12th.  — Fine,  clear,  and  most  beautiful  day,  and 
rnore  to  be  appreciated  after  the  disappearance  of  the  sun  for 
three  days.  Our  carts  were  hauled  over  Maple  river  bridge, 
and  up  the  steep  bank  on  the  south  side,  by  ropes,  all  hands 
laying  hold,  albeit  it  was  the  sabbath.  But  all  days  are  alike 
to  us ;  the  powers  that  rule  our  expedition  having  left  their 
religious  scruples  and  proprieties  behind  them. 

We  then  set  out,  over  the  smooth,  level  prairie,  for  the 
bhayenne,  distant  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles;  the  buffalo- 
bulls,  cows,  and  calves  — all  around  us,  and  running  across  the 
,  road  ,n  herds.  A  number  were  killed,  and  the  tongues  and  a 
portion  of  the  flesh  secured.  We  reached  the  Shayenne,  the 
southern  boundary-line  of  the  buffalo  in  the  Red  river  valley, 
at  noon.  The  dragoons  had  just  crossed  over,  and  their  teams 
were  winding  up  the  steep  bluff  on  the  opposite  side. 

\\e  dined,  rested  two  hours,  and  made  a  march  of  eight 
^     miles  ni  the  afternoon.     We  stopped  at  the  only  dump  of 
/  t.mbey  on  the  whole  prairie,  between  the  Shayenne  and  Wild- 
rice  river,  and  here  we  found  the  dragoons  encamped.     Being 
out  of  the  buffalo  country,  a  portion  of  the  excitements  of  the 
trip  are  over. 

^  And  now,  if  I  can  throw  enough  interest  into  our  monotonous 
journey  back  to  Sauk  Rapids,  to  interest  the  reader,  I  shall  be 
happy.  Bo  It  remembered,  however,  that  these  unpretending, 
rough  notes,  are  written  with  poucil,  with  my  knee  upon  the 
grass  for  a  writing-do.k,  nmid  the  smoke  of  evening,  noon,  and 
morning  camp-fires,  sometimes  upon  my  horse,  while  leisurely 


4^ 


TUE   HOMEWARD   MARCH. 


305 


pursuing  my  lonely  way  apart  from  the  rest  of  the  company ; 
and  as  first  written,  they  appear  to  you. 

In  consequence  of  our  resting  yesterday  and  travelling  to- 
day,  amid  all  the  bustle  and  confusion  of  the  camp,  besides 
buffalo-hunting,  etc.  it  is  extremely  hard  to  realize  it  is  the 
holy  institution  of  the  sabbath  that  has  again  dawned  upon 
us  so  beautifully.  I  think  of  the  quiet  Sunday  far  away  at 
home,  and  in  the  crowded  cities  of  the  East,  where  the  bells 
are  gayly  chiming  in  the  ears  of  their  thousands  of  hearers, 
who  should  be  worshippers,  and  answer  to  their  call. 

MoNDAv,  13th.  —  Cloudy,  cold,  and  windy,  all  the  morning, 
with  rain-show  irs  at  noon.     Overcoats  and  exercise  on  foot 
necessary  to  comfort.     We    started   early,  and   reached   the 
"  Wild  llice"  at  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  having  made  a  march  of 
sixteen  miles.     Drew  the  wagons,  carriage,  and  carts,  over  by 
ropes;  then  camped  in  double  quick  time,  and  all  hands  fell 
to  cooking.     Dinner  and  supper  combined,  was  ready  at  four, 
P.  M.     It  consisted  of  boiled  buffalo  cow  and  potatoes,  fried 
cow  and  hearts,  coffee,  stewed  peaches,  and  a  hash  made  of 
cold  meats,  potatoes,  onions,  lard,  pejiper,  and  salt;  all  well 
mixed,  prepared,  and  cooked  by  Dr.  F.,  assisted  by  the  young 
priest,  Mons.  Lecombe,  Gabon,  and  Pierre.    All  hands  then  fell 
to  with  an  avidity  unexampled  in  all  the  hungry,  voracious 
feats  on  record,  and  devoured  the  meal  ravenously.     I  have 
been  thinking  that  y,e  will  scarce  know  how  to  live  in  houses, 
or  eat  at  table,  when  we  get  into  civilized  life  again.     There 
is  a  romance  and  strange  wild  pleasure  in  the  life  we  lead  at 
present,  so  that  the  ordinary  every-day  routine  of  business  life 
among  the  busy  haunts  of  men  away  down  to  the  southeast 
(St.  Paul),  will  seem  irksome  and  monotonous ;  and  we  will  all 
have  to  be  broken  into  the  traces  of  quiet,  sedentary,  domestic 
life  again,  —  which  will  perhaps  prove  all  the  pleasanter  and 
more  to  be  appreciated,  after  undergoing  a  temporary  interrup- 
tion to  its  enjoyments. 

Tuesday,  14th. — Election  day  in  Minnesota,  for  members 
of  the  house  and  council.  Well,  they  have  a  delightful  day 
for  it;  sun  warm,  air  cool  and  pleasan-'.  Go  it — organizers, 
disorganizers,  and  coalitionists — to  the  mark,  ye  whig  whigs 


I 


300 


SKKTCHKa    liV    A    rAMI'-FIRK. 


Il:i 


: 


nnd  (len.ocraUc  (Icmocmts  —  givo  one  day  to  your  beloved 
Minnesota.  We  talked,  too,  of  holding  an  election  of  our 
own,  and  were  only  deterred  by  the  fact  that  no  one  would 
be  n  candidate.  It  was  voted  unanimously  to  take  a  "horn." 
The  governor's  whiskey  was  tapped,  prairie  mint  gathered, 
and  juleps  made  ;  the  standing  toast  being  that  of  Falstaft"— 
"  If  sack  and  sugar  be  a  fault,  Cod  help  the  wicked  !" 

We  crossed  the  Bois  des  Sioux  four  miles  south  of  where  we 
crossed  going  out,  and  swam  the  horses,  rafted  the  goods, 
carts,  wagons,  <fec.,  over  as  before.  We  then  camped  for  the 
night  on  the  banks  of  the  Sioux  wood. 

Wednesday,  loth.  — A  beautiful,  cool,  clear  day.  Marched 
twenty-five  miles.  We  killed  a  largo  elk.  and  fared  sump- 
tuously on  venison.  Roast  elk-ribs,  with  boiled  steaks,  with  a 
nice  mess  of  stewed  heart  and  kidneys,  formed  our  evening 
meal.  " 

Thursday,  16th.  — Two  weeks   on   our  homeward  march 
Weather  very  clear  and  pleasant,  with  ice  in  the  morning. 
We  reached  Rabbit  river  by  dinner,  but  had  to  carry  our  wood 
half  a  mile  to  camp.     The  governor  prepared  dinner  for  the 
first  time.     It  consisted  of  a  dish  of  stewed  kidney,  first  par- 
bo.led,  then  fried  in  a  pan,  with  lard,  flour,  and  other  condi- 
nents.     In  the  meantime,  a  great  talk  was  kept  up  by  his 
excellency,  about  the  excellency  of  the  dish,  and  the  superior- 
ity of  kidney  fat  over  all  other  fats  ;  Doctor  F.  dissenting,  and 
urging  that  the  admixture  of  so  much  fat  would  render  down 
the  whole  into  good  tallow  candles,  and  moved  that  the  mess 
be  cast  into  moulds,  and  each  man  allowed  to  eat  or  burn  his 
candle,  as  he  pleased.     Tyler  interfered,  and  was  told  that  it 
was  none  of  his  business  —  "  too  many  cooks  spoil  the  broth." 
"  Bon't  let  it  burn,  Gabou.   Now,  gentlemen,  if  it  don't  burn,  it 
will  be  first-rate!"     Dispute  now  arose  as  to  how  the  gravy 
ought  to  be  made ;  all  hands  differed  in  opinion.     Lord's  plan 
was  sustained  by  the  quasi  cook,  and  adopted.     Just  then  a 
big  black  bear  was  discovered  close  to  camp,  a^d  all  hands 
started  in  hot  pursuit.     The  governor  forgot  his  kidney  fat. 
Doctor  F.,  his  candles,  and,  in  his  haste,  almost  extinguished 
himself  in  a  neighboring  lake.     Lord  even  forgot  his  gravy, 


•TnirT'in?i'i'niinr 


TlIK   HOMEWARD   MAKCII. 


307 


the  stew  was  burnt,  and  in  n  minute  tlie  devil  was  to  pay  ;  but 
Bruin  got  fits!  Pierre  and  Gabon  took  the  lead  on  horseback, 
M'hile  tljo  rest  of  us  ran  down  and  along  the  banks  of  Lake 
Constantia,  till  we  were  fairly  out  of  breath. 

Bruin  ran  like  a  race-horse,  but  could  not  save  his  bacon 
that  time.  Pierre  shot  first,  and  his  ball  only  tore  off  a  toe 
from  the  beast's  fore  foot.  Gabou  then  fired,  and  his  two  balls 
passed  through  poor  Bruin,  who  leaped,  and  fell  headlong  down 
the  hill-side,  and  was  dead  before  wo  reached  him.  Ho  was 
skinned,  and  the  meat  placed  on  the  carts ;  when,  after  the 
kidney  dinner,  we  once  more  moved  on. 

Friday,  17th.  — Cloudy,  with  rain  all  day.  Wo  made  a 
short  march,  and  camped  early,  to  avoid  the  storm,  on  the 
borders  of  a  lake  near  Potato  river.  All  hands  then  fell  to  at 
cooking.  Doctor  F.  could  be  seen,  with  great  slices  of  ham  on 
a  forked  stick.  Tyler  was  parboiling  and  frying  the  ham  and 
eggs.  The  French  boys  put  up  elk-ribs  to  roast,  and  Pierre 
a  skunk ;  he  having  killed  two  yesterday  for  the  governor, 
who  had  taken  a  great  fancy  to  them,  and  was  very  desirous 
to  have  another  taste.  The  reg-ilar  dinner  consisted  of  broiled 
bear-ribs,  eggs,  coffee,  &c. 

The  whole  was  eaten  except  the  skunk,  and  his  excellency 
refused  to  partake  of  it,  on  the  ground  that  it  was  'venj  good 
when  he  was  very  hungry,  but  that  an  ordinjiry  appetite  could 
not  relish  it.  It  would  be  a  very  ordinary  one  that  could.  He 
also  says,  there  are  too  mjiny  kinds  of  meat  about,  and  tot 
much  of  it,  for  any  one  to  fancy  skunk. 

Dr.  F.  and  Tyler  were  appointed  a  committee  of  two,  to  see 
that  he  eats  one  at  '  ^,ast  before  he  goes  to  bed  to-night,  and 
not  to  let  him  off  .ithout.  It  is  but  meet  that  every  one 
should  have  plenty  of  that  which  is  most  to  his  taste,  and  also 
skin  and  eat  his  own  skunks,  and  not  leave  them  for  his 
friends.  We  then  spent  the  rest  of  the  day  within  our  tents, 
and  had  a  good  time  of  it.  The  governor  ate  his  skunk  for 
supper,  though  he  thought  we  were  coming  it  rather  strong 
over  him.  Our  salt  gave  out  to-day,  and  there  is  great  gi-um- 
bling  in  the  camp.  We  liave  plenty  of  whiskey  left,  however, 
uncle  being  very  liberal  in  his  supply  of  spirits,  which  is  a  very 


308 


fiKETCIIES  BY   A  CAMP-FIRE. 


t.Hcful  and  necc88my  article  ;  as  nil  our  party  are  mcdiufm,  and 
go  rapinng  at  tl.o  Hpirit-kcgH,  filling  up  their  flasks  aud  bottles 
'IB  regularly  as  clock-work. 

The  governor  lias  now,  however,  locked  up  all  the  spirits  in 
wooden  boxes,  so  that  the  spirit  world  is  closed  to  all  the 
rnedu.ms  save  himself.  He  still  taj>.  three  or  four  times  a  day, 
and  always  gets  very  satisfactory  answers.  He  is.  therefore, 
a  hrn,  behever  m  t/^e  spirits.  Lord,  however,  if  he  can  not  tap 
ZZ;>f  '"         '  ^"^  communion  with  them,  and  /J, 

^  Satouimv.  lSth.~\Ve  marched  twenty  miles  to-day.  pas- 
snig  by  Lakes  Pike  and  Filhnorc.  and  camped  on  a  small 
"m.ldy  stream.  The  dragoons  left  us  two  days  ago.  and  are 
out  of  s.ght.  Tbey  have  been  of  no  use  to  us  wh.ttvLr  during 
our  march.  But  Uncle  Sam  pays  for  it.  Go  on,  fiery  dragoons 
— joy  be  with  you  !  j        o       ° 

St;NnAv.  lOth.-Coldand  windy,  but  good  travelling  weath- 
er.  We  camped  at  Lightning  lake,  so  called  because  the 
.ghtning  here  struck  the  camp  of  Major  Woods  and  Captain 
1  ope.  wlulo  on  then-  expedition  to  Pembina,  in  the  summer  of 
1849  We  also  camped  here  over  Sunday  on  our  outward 
march.  Our  supper  to-night  was  cold  bear-ribs.  crackers  and 
coffee,  eaten  whde  sittmg  on  a  log  around  the  fire 

Ihis  IS  our  last  sabbath  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  we  be- 
gui  already  to  feel  near  home.  ^ 

mo'^trr'  f  ^^^^--^".^-t^'-rdinary  day.    Weather  variable; 
mostly  cloudy,  and  quite  cold,  with  a  rainy  mist  and  snow 
squalls  at  intervals.     One  minute  it  is  snowing  most  furiously 
t  en  hailing  till  the  ground  is  covered;  the'next  tli      unS 
shining  warm  and  pleasantly.     There  appears  to  be  a  general 
disruption  of  all  the  elements.     We  rode'eight  miles,  to  Zw 
nver.  and  found  the  crossing  very  bad.    Dr.  Foster's  mare,  poor 
Bessie,  was  completely  mired,  and  was  pulled  out  with  a  lope 
1  he  govei-nor  and  Dr.  F.  were  carried  over  on  the  backs'Tf , 
1  lerre  and  Jarva,  and  I  forded,  with  the  big  long  india-rubbers' 
belted  around  the  waist,  and  occasionally  sticking  fast     while 
Lord  took  off  coat,  boots,  pantaloons,  an^  drawer!,  a  d'waded 
a  la  modH  aruste^u.  the  midst  of  our  immoderate  laughter 


TIM.:    Il.iMKWAlU)   MAIlOir. 


300 


Wo  then  prncP(Mlo(t  two  niilofl,  nnd  camped  upon  tl.o  prnlrle- 
liclped  the  doctor  alon-with  tlio  old  mnro,  thiashin-  I.cr  nloi.ff 
nt  ovcry  stop  with  a  Ion-  stnip,  nnd  lind  hard  work  to  j^^ct  her 
alonpr  at  that.  Poor  lU-snio  l  with  tail  hotween  hor  Iv^r^,  and 
head  hun{?  down,  she  socnuul  shrunken  hy  her  hath  to  ahout 
one-half  her  former  size,  nnd.  as  the  cold  winds  8;\(.pt  nn^und 
her,  she  tremhled,  nnd  looked  most  pitcously.  But  cheer  up 
bravo  beast !  Uncle  j.aid  a  h.nulred  dollars  for  yon,  and  if  yon 
should  now  keel  over,  it  would  bo  truly  a  dead  loss  to  him  • 
besulcs,  the  doctor  would  have  to  walk  the  balance  of  the  road' 
and  ho  would  bo  perfectly  incons(dablc  —  his  grief  would  be 
greater  than  ho  could  bear  ;  so  bear  up,  brave  IJess  ! 

We  dined  and  supped  together  at  three,  P.  M. ;  faro  was  fried 
ham  and  buffalo,  coffeo,  etc.  Spent  the  rest  of  the  day  around 
the  fire,  drying  onr  moccasins  and  stockings,  and  fix  in-  up 
generally.  Retired  early.  The  grass  being  all  killed  by  the 
frosts  for  some  time  past,  our  hor.es  Iiavo  nearly  given  out 
Wo  are  obliged  to  stop  a  dozen  times  a  day,  on  the  banks  of 
streams,  and  in  the  little  sheltered  valleys  where  the  grass  is 
green,  and  the'-c  refresh  onr  exhanstcd  animals. 

Tuesday,  Slst—Oloudy  and  windy,  and  very  cold;  snow- 
squalls  occasionally.     We  started  early,  to  keep  warm ;  and 
Uoctor  F.  came  near  drowning  his  marc  in  attempting  to  cross 
a   stream.     She   swamped,   but   after  being  lightened  of  her 
burden,  to  wit,  the  doctor  in  a  saddle,  with  a  knapsack  and  two 
overcoats  behind,  and  a  coil  of  rope  of  thirty  feet  and  a  stake, 
for  a  lariat  at  night.     On  the  removal  of  all  this,  she  rose  to 
the  surface,  and,  a  rope  being  fastened  around  her  neck,  she 
was  drawn  out  choked,  with  a  "  Yo,  heave  0!"  and  a  "  Pull 
now,  boys,  altogether,  out  she  comes  !"  by  all  our  force.     In 
doing  this  poor  Bess  struggled   and  floundered  considerably, 
and  tlie  mud  and  water  flew  as  though  a  dozen  porpoises  just 
harpooned  were  there  ;  the  doctor  meanwhile  standing  along- 
side of  her,  at  a  safe  distance,  over  his  boots  in  water,  crying, 
"Pull,  pull,  you  devils,  pull  — a  long  pull,  a  strong  pull,  and  a 
pull  altogether !  out  she  goes  !"    We  then  took  turns  in  driving 
her  along,  the  doctor  riding  my  horse,  and  I  wading  the  swampa 
and  streams  in  the  big  boots.     Each  one  in  his  turn  abandoned 


■4  . 


310 


SKETCriES  hy  a  camp-firk, 


tlio  poor  1)onst,  mid  tlio  dnofor  in  ncspnir  flnnllj  loft  lior  to  Tier 
i'sxiv.,  and  the  tender  niereies  of  tlie  governor  juid  Tyler,  who 
were  still  behind,  coverinf^  our  rear,  feedin-,^  their  hordes,  an  I 
occasionally  consultinnj  the  .s/^/WAv  of  the  ])lace  — that  spirit 
which  Shaksi-ere  calls  "the  invif^ihle  spirit  of  wine."  It  is 
but  just  to  say,  however,  that  before  leaving  them  I  took  a 
draught  myself,  to  shield  mc  from  the  efl'ects  of  the  keen  winds 
and  snow-s(pialls. 

AVe  .  .(.pped  an  hour  to  warm  ourselves  by  a  fire  which  had 
been  kindled  at  Dnvid  lake,  in  a,  piece  of  woodland.     Wo  lay 
down  in  tho  tall  grass,  while  the  wind  shrieked  through  the 
trees,  the  fire  roared,  and  the  snow  commenced  tailing  furiously. 
Just  as  \/e  rose  to  start,  we  heard  an  awful  yelling  and  shout- 
ing close  at  hand,  to  the  right.     Looking  around  we  saw  a 
blanket  waving  in  the  wind,  at  a  distance  of  about  two  him- 
dred  yards,  and  occasionally  a  creature  that  appeared  to  be 
an  Indian  would   spring  up,  and   waving   his  blanket  at  us, 
again  fell  quickly  down   into  the  gr.-.ss.     Dr.  F.  thinking  it 
might  bo  some  one  in  distress,  started  over  afoot,  but  soon 
halted,  turned  back  and  refused   to  go   any  farther,  iniless 
accompanied  by  the  rest  of  ns.     Not  knowing  the  meaning  of 
such  an  unusual  performance  —  especially  as  we   had   been 
upon  the  ground  for  an  hour  previous  without  hearing  anything 
—  and  believing  it  to  be  soma  fooJ -caper  of  one  of  the  advance 
party,  I  rode  ahead,  till  Gabon  finally  rode  over  to  the  spot, 
and  after  a  sort  of  parley  with  the  creature — during  which  it 
leaped  about  and  waved  the  blanket,  and  then  squatting  sud- 
denly down,  it  covered  up  completely;  then,  finally,  lay  down 
in  as  small  a  compass  as  possible,  forming  a  living  ball  envel- 
oped  in   a  blanket,  and   so  remained   quiet  and   motionless. 
After  this  pantomime,  Gabou  pointed  to  a  strip  of  woods  about 
a  mile  off,  and  motioned  us  to  go  there.     We  found  the  sup- 
posed Indian  to  be  "  Amab,"  one  of  the  French  boys,  who  had 
been  stationed  there  to  direct  all  back  travellers  to  the  even- 
ing's camp  in  the  timber,  where  we  found  all  the  carts  had 
gone.     We,  therefore,  followed  their  trail,  leaving  the  silent 
bjankot-envelnped  Rt'Htlnel  as  a  sort  of  living  fingci-pust  to 
direct  the  others  still  behind.     On  arriving  at  the  woods  wo 


It 


MM 


THE    IIOMKWARn   MARCH. 


311 


lior  toiler 
yler,  who 
oivscR,  an  1 
liat  spirit 
B."  It  is 
I  took  a 
pen  M'inds 

liioli  Imd 
Wo  \i\y 
'OUJ>ll    tlio 
furiously, 
nd  sliout- 
ivc  saw  a 
two  liun- 
•od  to  be 
:et  at  us, 
inking  it 
but  soon 
sr,  unless 
saning  of 
ad   been 
anything 
advance 
the  spot, 
which  it 
:ing  sud- 
ay  down 
11  envel- 
)tionless. 
ds  about 
the  sup- 
M^ho  had 
he  even- 
Firts  had 
10  silent 
.'-post  to 
oods  wo 


found  the  carts  and  carriage  —  the  horses  picketed  in  the 
woods  for  shclte.,  and  a  huge  fire  blazing.  Tiie  governor, 
Tyler,  and  the  old  mare,  soon  after  arrived,  and  dinner  being 
ready,  all  hands  ate  with  their  accustomed  avidity,  some  in 
their  tents,  and  some  around  the  fire  amid  the  falling  snow. 
In  the  midst  of  our  enjoyments,  we  could  not  but  regret  the 
loss  of  one  of  our  party,  who  had  come  along  the  road,  walking 
and  leading  ///*  sic^c  mare,  before  the  fantastic  sentinel  was 
posted,  and  not  observing  that  the  carts  had  left  the  road,  he 
kept  on,  although  two  guns  were  fired,  and  blankets  waved, 
and  shouts  sent  after  him  from  camp. 

Much  pity  was  bestowed  on  him,  and  a  great  deal  of  won- 
dering and  speculation  indulged  in  as  to  his  whereabouts  on 
such  a  night  as  this,  without  fire,  food,  or  shelter.  He  is  sup- 
posed to  be  at  the  crossing  of  Sauk  river,  fifteen  miles  ahead. 
Gabon  set  off,  however,  on  his  Indian  pony  in  search  of  him, 
the  sno.v  falling  in  wild,  fitful,  gusts.  We  are  yet  some  forty 
miles  from  the  Mississippi,  and  are  uneasy  at  the  rapid  giving 
out  of  our  horses.  Two  of  our  half-breeds  started  on  ahead 
this  morning  in  hopes  of  reaching  the  river  by  night. 

However,  as  we  lie  warm  and  comfortable  in  our  tents  to- 
night, upon  our  beds  of  mattress,  robes,  and  blankets,  with 
overcoats,  boots,  and  saddles,  for  our  pillows,  we  can  listen 
undismayed  to  the  keen  bowlings  of  old  Boreas,  and  the  pat- 
terings  and  rattlings  of  the  gliding  snows  overhead  —  the  first 
rude,  rough  harl)ingers  of  the  precocious  winter,  disturbs  us  not. 

Blow,  winds,  blow,  snows  may  fall,  and  the  winds  may 
howl,  for  ourselves  we  care  not,  only  for  our  poor  beasts,  and 
our  absent  voyageur. 

Wr.nNF.sDAY,  22d. —  A  beautiful,  fine,  clear,  day,  after  the 
storm,  cool  and  bracing.  The  old  mare,  Bess,  was  found 
standing  in  the  same  spot  and  position  that  she  Avas  left  last 
night.  She  had  apparently  not  laid  down,  or  moved  a  muscle. 
She  stood,  in  fact,  a  statue  of  a  mare  —  perfectly  rigid  through- 
out the  night,  and  exposed  to  the  fury  of  the  storm,  we  being 
unable  to  get  her  under  shelter.  The  Dr.,  getting  desperate, 
started  on  ahead  on  foot,  while  the  governor.  Lord,  and  Tyler, 
drove  poor  Bessie  along  with  blows  and  shouts;   but  finally 


'ill 


■  r 


1,  ' 


-.jj., 


312 


SKKTOIIES    BY    A    CAMP- FIRE. 


I  i 


II 


r"' 

i  ■ 
1  ■ 
I 

■ ; 

u  ■■ 

.' 

ftilh.K  in  ,hh.  ,l„.y  |,i„.,„.,,  Billy  B„t,„„  (L„,,a.,  ,,„,,„,,  ,„  ,„„. 

^ '■  r    "■^■'''  ■■""!   ""»« «■  tl.c  lopc  ,„„,„„|    i,,  ,1,,.,.  ,|„„ 

J>ui  e,l  .1,.  u,,,..c  „y  f„,™,  Bill  ,„.,awi„,  as  if  ,,i,  li.l  ,,.,.., 
n  an,  Bc.s  l,..l,  ,„,-  back  till  foiriy  choked  a,„l  „l,lp„|  ,„ 

■  .  "■    t,ll  >ml„„  ,.  ic.  ,„ilc,  of  t,,e  ,.i,er,  ,vl,c„  Bess  „,„|- 
;      b   Wl  ovor  i,.om  »I,cc.-  ,..l,a„sti„„,  „„a  ..ovc-  ,.lh.,-  »,i,  „.,!. 

..Ml.  -.1,0  1  a  tea.-  01-  two  "  over  the  IclV  cye-la.sh,  an.l  left 
l.cr  to  he,-  late-"  ,loath  and  the  wolves  " 

We  all  reached  Sa„k  river,  crossed  and  camjied  a  few  mile, 
-yon,  .     Uabon  had    f„„nd  our  lost  co-njaniL  there  ab 
,,  o  clock  last  „igl,..     He  had  bnilt  a  (i,.;  picketed  I,  s  n, 
and  was,„„<  g„,„^.  ,„  M,     go  they  piled  on  the  I„„s,  ,«,k 
-.W,cr,  a„d  made  a  night  of  it  in  the  w,  ,ds  which  ski.^t      e 

sTe  ;r.     ""'T' ''"''"  "'''^'' '™  '-•'<'■''  "1'  -'■••'-'-I. 

•e'sa   o,!  J      T  """  "■"'  '■"     '"''  S.-eat  balk  o?  the  co„- 
n.ueof  the  doctor's,  mnch  menimot  a„d  wit  was  indulRed 
the  expense  of  both-the  latter  bavin,  been  obliged'to 
"a  k,  a„d  „de  upon  a  cart,«.  a  dernier  rcso,,.  to  get  to  port. 

J  i.™s„,,v,  23d.-A  fine,  clear,  cool  lay.     We  «,t  to  within 
o,,rM,„,es  of  the  river  at  Sank  rapids,  a,,^  capped  f'.ti;;t 

,r:  ...^''".f™"'"'-  >■»'!«  »»  al'ead,  and  sent  „s  eats  fron, 
Knssell .,,  without  which  we  could  scarce  have  got  i„.  We  had 
•:v<"".Mg  prayers,  oar  enstom  of  a  uight,  by  Monsieur  tecombe, 
to.  the  last  tnno,  as  to-morrow  our  camp  breaks  up. 

l^atDAv,  October  24lh.-We  reached  the  Missis'sippi  at  ten, 
A.  M.,  h,-,v,ng  made  the  march  from  Pembina  in  twenty-three 
days,  and  very  glad  to  get  back  to  the  settlements  again 

.SA.n:„n.v,  25th._We  started  for  St.  Paul,  taking  some  of 

ho.se  lean,.     ,s,„pj,ed  at  Big  lake  all  night. 

S.;.vu.,v,  20lh.     We  reache.l    ,St.  Pa„l   ,„.„igl,t    „fte,  ,„ 
ahsence  of  just  ten  weeks.  "i»nt.  attoi   an 


TFIK    HOMEWARD    MAKCIF. 


313 


>o.),  to  Iier 
it  nroiiiul 
licy  thus 
Impended 
Mif^'od  to 

Bess  siid- 

r  stii  icil. 

ler  fallen 

and  ]t'j't 

Bw  miles 
ce  about 
lis  mare, 
•gs,  took 
kilt  the 
hnustcd, 
I  loss  to 
ous,  not 
the  coii- 
n'tnnate 
lululged 
liged  to 
port. 
>  within 
the  last 
ts  from 
We  liad 
scombe, 

at  ten, 
)^- three 
in. 

)nie  of 
a  two- 

ler  an 


The  iWnncso/n/n,  of  St.  Tanl,  tlms  alludes  to  our  arrival 
home,  and  sums  up  our  journey  in  tliis  wise  :  "The  dragoons 
who  accompanied  the  governor  to  Pemhina,  returned  to  Fort 
Snelling  on  Friday  last,  and  on  Monday,  about  eleven  o'clock, 
the  numerous  friends  of  our  worthy  executive  were  delighted 
to  take  himself,  and  those  who  accompanied  him,  by  the  hand. 
The  party  was  abseat  only  ten  wecivs,  and  in  that  time  trav- 
elled upward  of  twelve  hundred  miles,  going  and  returning, 
besides  consummating  the  important  business  of  the  expedi- 
tion, in  the  highly  satisfactory  manner  already  made  public. 
"Their  route  lay  to  the  west  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North, 
until  they  struck  the  Pembina  river,  which  they  followed  to 
its  mouth.  This  is  the  site  of  Mr.  Kittson's  old  trading  post, 
the  place  where  the  treaty  was  made.  They  returned  by 
the  same  route. 

"  The  party,  soldiers  aiul  citizens,  all  return  in  the  most 
robust  health,  though  somewhat  bronzed  by  exposure  to  the 
weather.  Their  liorses  stood  the  journey  home  remarkably 
well,  considering  the  grass  was  very  much  cut  down  by  the 
frost.  Dr.  Foster  lost  his  horse  a  day  or  two  out  from  Sauk 
rnpids,  which  was  the  only  one  lost  by  the  governor's  party. 
The  soldiers  lost  two,  Ave  believe. 

"  Game  in  abundance  was  found  on  the  route,  both  going  and 
coming.  Buffalo,  elk,  bear,  geese,  ducks,  and  brant,  were 
killed  in  much  greater  quantities  than  could  be  used.  Buffalo 
were  more  plenty  on  the  return  than  in  going  out.  Thousands 
lined  the  prairies  during  several  days'  travel.  From  sixty  to 
a  hundred  were  killed  by  the  party,  and  any  number  could 
have  been  taken. 

"Dr.  Bond,  who,  from  his  close  observation  of  meteorological 
sul»jects,  lias  earned  the  title  of  clerk  of  the  weather,  inCorms 
us  that  the  first  frost  which  nipped  vegetation  in  the  valley  of 
Ked  river,  occurred  on  the  28tli  of  September.  Four  days 
previous,  he  gathered  flowers,  fresh  and  blooming,  in  the  gar- 
dens at  Pembina.  On  Tuesday  week,  about  one  hundred 
miles  Avest  of  Sauk  rapids,  they  encountered  a  snow-squall, 

"  All  the  party  speak  in  the  highest  terms  of  the  country  OA-'er 
Avhich  they  passed,  and  of  the  hospitable  entertainment  they 

14 


314 


SKETCHES   BY    A   CAMP-FIKK. 


received  at  tl.o  hands  of  the  people  on  botli  sides  the  line, 
rhe  attentions  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  factors  and  clerks,  and 
the  people  of  Selkn-k  settlement  generally,  are  warmly  al- 
iudea  to.  Ihe  former  accounts  are  confirmed,  that  they  are  a 
trugal,  hardy,  and  industrious  people,  surrounded  by  all  the 
comforts  of  life  that  can  be  attained  in  that  remote  region." 

Outwad  March,    an.l  residence  at  Pembina  and  Selkirk  settle  nenf,  were 
fir  t  pubhs^^d  in  the  Jfinne.ola  Pioneer,  at  St.  Paul,  during  the  n  ontirof 

Jiave  not  hitherto  been  published.  Jiarco 


•:,'! 


1  I' 

11 


ni 


LETIERS    FKOM    PEMBINA    AND   SELKLKK. 


316 


the  line, 
lerks,  and 
arnily  al- 
ii ey  are  a 
y  all  the 
egion." 

Hive  of  our 

ment,  were 

months  of 

ud  ilarch' 


I 


CHAPTER  III. 

LETTERS    FROM    PEMBINA   AND    SELKIRK    SETTLEMENT DESCRIP- 
TION   OP    THE    SETTLEMENT. 

The  following  letters,  descriptive  of  the  Selkirk  settlement, 
were  written  during  the  short  stay  I  made  in  that  hospitable 
region,  and  were  addressed  to  Col.  D.  A.  Robertson,  late  editor 
of  the  "  Minnesota  Democrat,"  in  which  paper  they  were  sub- 
sequently published.  They  form  the  connection  between  the 
"  outward"  and  "  homeward"  march  : — 

FoET  Garry,  Selkirk  Settlement,  September  22,  1851. 

Dear  Sir  :  I  avail  myself  of  an  express  which  is  just  leav- 
ing for  St.  Paul,  bearing  despatches  from  Dr.  Ray,  who  has 
been  exploring  the  coast  from  Victoria  to  Wollasten  Land,  from 
the  one  hundred  and  tenth  to  the  one  hundred  and  seventeenth 
degree  of  west  longitude,  in  hopes  of  finding  some  trace  of  Sir 
John  Franklin,  and  the  straits  which  were  supposed  to  extend 
through  to  the  northwest  in  that  locality. 

He  has  failed  in  both,  and  intends  next  summer  to  turn  his 
attention  in  another  direction,  satisfied  that  there  is  no  longer 
any  hopes  in  that  quarter.  His  package  has  just  arrived  by 
Mr.  Ross  from  the  Norway  house,  on  the  northern  extremity 
of  Lake  Winnipeg.  It  is  to  be  forwarded  immediately  to  the 
admiralty  department,  via  St.  Paul  and  the  states.  Mr.  Adam 
Klyn  is  the  bearer,  and  will  reach  you  in  fifteen  days — a  glo- 
rious opportunity  for  communicating  a  few  lines  to  you — as 
good  as  it  was  unexpected ;  my  time,  however,  is  very  precious, 
and  Avill  not  admit  of  details. 

Our  party  reached  Pembina  on  the  11th  instant,  in  twenty 
travelling  days  from  the  Mississippi  at  Sauk  rapids.     We  had 


\\\. 


ii  I  ill' 


f  m 


i  .a 

m 


U\    I; 


ft' 


Imflfalo  Ii 


(leli-lid'iil  weatl 


«Kr.;TCIJKS    JiV    A    CAMl'-FIKK. 


mils,  l)oai--cIiasc,s,  plenty  of  small 


lor,  aiK 


excitements 
iiig,  however 


iind  accidents  attend 


or  ^nme,  good  roads, 
every  other  pleasure,  with  some  of  tl 


le 


of 


mg  a  prairie  trip,  with  noth- 


no  an 


a  senous  nature ;  scarcely  any  sickness,  and 

la   e  of  mosquitoes,  gnats,  and  huge,  tormenting  flies,  wh  ch 

Th    t     f  ?  """■""  f  countless  millions  througl.out  tiie  trip 

band      ;  ri     "'"  "  '''  i'^'  '^-"^  ''''  Red.lake'and  Pembiifn 
bands  of  Chippewas,  numbenn .  >  „  all  about  two  hundred  and 

fifty.     Several  hundred  lialf-breeds  were  also  present,  and  ex 

pected  to  part  cipate  in  the  making  of  the  treaty,    i  d  t "e 

exceedingly   disappointed   when    informed    that   t  eir     lai    s 

i::dth:V"i-"^"^*"!"^"'^'^^ ,,,  g,,,^.,^^^^^  ^^^  ^.-- 

med    ]  e  Indians  as  the  rightful  owners  of  the  soil,  and  in- 

lied  :    f  ''''''  '""  '^"°"^"^^^^>'-     ^''^^  I'alf-br:!  had 
"mi         '•  ''"'Tr\  f  '  ^"^'^"^  ''  '''''  ^'  t'-  ---ties 

no't  with    1  '""  1  "'''  recognised,  with  that  view  only  ; 

session  of  he  lands  at  an  early  period,  and  bettering  their  pres- 

m:::^T  '";''r-'^  ^'^"-  ^^^'^^^"'^^^°"'  -^^'  ^^  ^^e,er!^i 

1   k  V  o'l  l"  '        7'  "^''°"'  '^^^  P°^^''  "^^^--^^^  pittance 
mo  I  '  "'  ^''''  "^  *^'^  ^^'-''P^  '''  '-^^  ---tV  doled 

nadf  "Vr  ^T  *°  >'^--'  *^-  -^T  receipt  of  whiclf  would 
c  efeiade  and  lower  them  as  men  and  citizens  of  our  territory 
Iheir  dependence  upon  annuities  in  prospective,   and   their 
keen  expectancy  of  receiving  them  in  comLn  wilh  thei     ed 

1  oir;i""  "T"-^--  '^  become  honest  tillers  of 
the  soil,  shows  them  at  least  to  be  very  deficient  in  self-respect 
-Kl  to  possess  a  very  low  and  I  think  erroneous  estimJeof 
then  own  character.  I  hope,  however,  better  things  of  this 
tiee,  hardy,  and  very  energetic  class;  and  that  they  will  take 
advantage  of  what  will  be  done  for  them  by  governu^nt  ^ 
improve  their  present  wandering  condition  and  mode  of  life 
and  elevate  them  among  the  ranks  of  "Nature's  noblemen,'' 
tor  winch  position  they  are  well  qualiiied. 

The  land  proposed  to  be  purc-ha.od  includes  each  side  of 


Ked 


nver  thirty  miles  to  the  east  and 


west,  and  as  far  south 


.JSMI 


LK'1TEI:8    FROM    PKMHINA    ANP   HKLKIUK. 


317 


as  Goose  river.  This  includes  a  portion  of  Pembina  mountain 
and  the  new  town  of  St.  Joseph,  thirty  miles  west  of  Pembina. 
An  offer  was  made  them  of  eight  tliousand  dollars  down  on  the 
ratification  of  the  treaty,  and  yearly  annuities  of  several  thou- 
sands  for  twenty  years, 

I  left  Pembina,  in  company  with  the  Rev.  John  Black,  on 
the  I7th,  before  the  consummation  of  the  treaty,  and  have  since 
hoard  nothing  ilefinite.  As  the  express  passes  Pembina,  you 
will  have  later  news.  We  were  three  days  descending-  the 
lied  river  (ninety  miles) ;  and,  although  we  have  been  suffer- 
ing with  an  equinoctial  since  our  first  arrival  at  Pembina,  yet 
I  have  been  highly  pleased  with  everything  pertaining  to  this 
settlement,  and  I  assure  you  I  have  seldom  left  a  place  with 
more  reluctant  feelings  than  those  I  experience  at  present. 

I  am  about  starting  up  the  river  in  a  bark-canoe,  with  two 
halt-breed  voyageurs,  and  will  reach  Pembina  on  the  evening  of 
the  26th,  camping  out  three  nights  by  the  way.  The  weather 
IS  now  delightful,  it  having  cleared  off  this  morning,  and  is 
as  fine  and  warm  as  an  Indian  summer.  The  cathedral-bells 
across  the  river  are  ringing  a  merry  chime,  and  I  almost  f^mcy 
myself  away  "  down  east"  in  a  large  Atlantic  city —  not  in  the 
Selkirk  settlement,  amid  the  very  centre  of  the  continent,  and 
a  whole  month's  march  of  twenty  miles  per  day  to  the  west  of 
sundown  — that  is,  St.  Paul. 

I  find  it  very  hard  to  be  brief  amid  scenes  like  these,  but 
my  time  and  the  circumstances  in  which  I  find  myself  situated 
compel  me  in  what  I  have  yet  to  say  — not  because  it  is  "  the 
soul  of  wit"  to  be  so,  but  you  are  aware  that  necessity  kn-vs 
no  law. 

I  have  been  treated  in  the  most  hospitable  and  kind  manner 
by  tne  people  throughout  the  settlement,  and  by  none  more  so 
than  the  people  of  the  fort,  whom  I  shall  long  remember.  To 
Mr.  John  Black,  who  has  command  of  "the  company's"  post 
at  this  place.  Dr.  Cowan,  Mr.  Pelley,  and  Mr.  Logan,  jr.,  and 
also  to  Mr.  M'Dermott  and  Mr.  Alexander  Ross  and  son,  I  am 
under  many  obligations.  I  have  this  moment  been  introduced 
to  Bishop  Ander..-.n  of  the  episcopal  church,  a  very  affable  and 
worthy  gentleman.     He  has  resided  here  two  years,  and  in 


J;ii! 


jLtMyn  J 


318 


SKKTCIIFS    liV    A    cAMl' FIKE. 


lU 


{•ommon  with  tlic  otlicr  incnil,or.s  of  tl.c  scvornl  cliuvclics,  of 
wliieh  thero  arc  three,  is  very  hi-lily  esteemeil.  The  cluirches 
wouhl  do  credit  to  any  western  settlement  in  tlie  states.  Tho 
cnngregatious  of  each  are  largo,  and  the  character  of  the  peo- 
I'ie  for  industry  and  morality  is  most  excellent.  I  have  found 
|iH.re  of  the  nobk  traits,  which  dignify  and  exalt  our  race,  ex- 
i8;ing  among  the  people  here,  than  any  one  unacquainted  with 
f  hem  would  imngine.  Not  to  be  too  eulogistic,  however,  I  will 
(•  lose;  if  I  am  deceived  in  them,  it  is  an  error  of  the  head,  not 
ot  the  heart.     More  of  this  anon. 

We  expect  to  leave  Pembina  on  the  1st  of  October,  and  to 
leach  St.  Paul  on  the  25tli,  perhaps  not  until  the  1st  of  Novem- 
ber.    Our  route  will  be  out  to  the  westward  of  the  one  we 
came,  to  Devil's  lake,  among  the  buffalo-cows  and  probably 
the  bears.     We  anticipate  a  pleasant  time  rcturnhig,  as  the 
Indian   summer  soon  sets  in,  and  the  mosquitoes  will  all  be 
killed  by  early  frosts,  or  else  too  much  benumbed  to  "present 
then-  bills"  with  vigor  :  we  expect  to  "  settle"  all  that  are  pre- 
sented without  drawing  upon  Uncle  Sam's  treasury  for  an  addi- 
tional amount  of  funds. 

Governor  Ramsey  comes  down  by  canoe  to-day  or  to-mor- 
row, accompanied  by  Mr.  Hugh  Tyler,  Dr.  Foster,  and  Lieu- 
tenant Corley.  The  people  here  will  give  them  a  warm  recep- 
t,on-one  of  the  old-fashioned  sort,  such  as  you  might  have 
expected  from  men  before  human  nature  became  corrupt.  They 
are  most  heartily  welcome,  and  their  arrival  looked  forward 
to  with  interest  and  pleasure. 

A  letter  from  Governor  Colville  at  the  lower  fort  has  just 
arnved  offering  our  governor  and  party  the  hospitalities  of 
J  nncc  Rupert's  Land  ;  and  Major  Caldwell,  governor  of  the 
colony  is  here  upon  the  spot,  to  extend  the  same.  But  I  must 
close,  hoping  to  find  you  and  all  the  good  people  of  St.  Paul 
"  all  correct"  on  my  return. 


jofagj 


LETTERS   FROM   PEMBINA  AND  SELKIRK. 


319 


Til 


Pembina,  Wednesday,  September  24,  185L  — 11,  P.  M. 
Dear  Sir  :   I  Imve  just  arrived  lierc  from  Fort  Garry,  after 
one  of  the  heaviest  marches  I  have  ever  before  experienced. 
Jt  happened  in  this  wise  :  I  was  detained  at  the  fort  on  Mon- 
day till  four  o'clock,  1>.  M.,  as  I  was  obliged  to  stay  and  once 
more  dine  with  the  very  clever  folks  there  stationed.     I  then 
loft,  and   after  crossing  Red  river  on  the  ferry-boat,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Assiniboin,  I  proceeded  on  up,  through  the  half- 
breed  settlements,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  for  about  ten 
miles,  over  a  good  road ;  and  when  night  fell,  secured  a  guide, 
who  i)iloted  me  for  several  miles  to  the  camp  of  my  two  voya- 
geurs,  whom  I  had  already  sent  up  to  the  head  of  the  settle- 
ment that  morning  with  the  canoe,  a.-d  orders  to  await  my 
arrival  there.     I  also  camped  immediately,  heartily  tired  of 
the  tramp  ;   and  yesterday  morning  was  o<f  again  at  daylight 
assisting  the  men  to  paddle,  and  going  up  against  the  cuiTent 
at  about  three  miles  per  hour.     At  seven  o'clock  we  stopped 
for  breakfast,  being  just  out  of  sight  of  the  houses,  which  ex- 
tend some  fifteen  miles  by  water  above  the  fort.     As  our  canoe 
leaked  badly,  the  men  informed  me  that  it  would  take  five 
days  to  reach  this  place,  and  proposed  deserting  her  and  taking 
to  the  prairie-road  on  foot— stating,  too,  that  we  could  easily 
come  up  in  about  two  days. 

I  was  strongly  inclined  to  let  them  come,  and  go  back  or 
else  in  the  canoe  to  Selkirk ;  or  either  proceed  on  up  by  water 
mitil  I  met  the  governor's  party,  or  await  his  arrival  where  I 
was.  But  not  liking  the  uncertainty  attending  the  time  of  his 
arrival,  and  being  loath  to  beat  a  "  retreat  backward,"  even  if 
It  were  within  the  hospitable  walls  of  a  friendly  fort,  I  decided 
very  unwisely  to  go  on. 

I  therefore  employed  two  Chippewas,  whom  I  found  camped 
iipon  the  bank ;  and  the  party  of  four  then  tied  the  baggage, 
bedding,  and  provisions,  into  four  large  bundles,  and  each  ta- 
king one  upon  his  back,  secured  by  a  strap  passing  in  front 
over  the  forehead,  and  sometimes  across  the  chest,  we  bop-an 
our  march;  the  men  going  along  with  their  bodies  inclined  at 
an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees,  moving  with  a  long,  loping 


'M 


il 


320 


SKKTC1IE8    BV    A    CAMP-KIKK. 


tml,  which  I  nt  lir.st  I'nmid  idthcr  iliflicult  to  keep  pace  with  ; 
at  tiinPH  j)iiH.siiig  thion;,^!  a  swamp  or  across  a  prairie-stream, 
when  one  of  the  party  woukl  drop  liis  pack,  and,  returning, 
take  me  upon  his  hack  and  carry  me  safely  over. 

At  noon  we  stopped  to  prepare  our  dinner  of  tea,  ohl  ham, 
dried  huft'aio-nieat,  and  hard  bread,  with  a  £gw  condiments  and 
extra  fixings  for  a  relislj ;  and  liere  wo  met  a  half-breed  going 
down  with  a  cart  and  two  spare  horses;  he  was  also  dining 
npon  the  road,  where  it  passed  a  large  bend  in  the  river,  and 
informed  me  that  the  governor  had  just  gone  doAvn  in  two 
canoes,  eight  men  paddling  in  each,  and  went  very  quick.     I 
was  by  thiw  time  very  sore  and  tired,  as  we  had  made  a  forced 
niarch  of  fifteen  miles  since  eight,  A.  M.,  and  I  therefore  nego- 
tiated with  the  man  (who  said,  in  answer  to  my  first  question, 
that  "  he  spoke  English  a  little  piece")  for  the  use  of  one  of 
his  horses  to  carry  me  back  to  the  settlements.     Feeling  re- 
freshed, however,  after  dinner,  I  determined  to  go  on  ;  we 
made  the  same  distance  in  the  afternoon,  passing  through  a 
SAvamp  at  sundown,  which  was  about  half  a  mile  in  length, 
knee-d.ep  at  that  —  a  mass  of  tenacious  mud  and  water.     We 
camped  soon  afterward  upon  the  open  prairie,  with  no  wood 
to  make  a  fire  except  a  few  nishes  to  boil  our  tea,  and  I  re- 
tired wet  and  too  fatigued  to  sleep  or  keep  one  moment  in  the 
same  position.     I  fortunately  had  a  bed  consisting  of  a  buffalo 
robe,  three  blankets,  and  a  canvas-covered  mosquito  bar,  which 
served  to  keep  off  the  heavy  dew,  already  fVilling.    If  you  were 
ever  too  tired  to  be  still,  you  can  appreciate  my  situation.  Well, 
I  worried  through  the  night,  and  on  rising  at  daylight  this  morn- 
ing, I  found  my  pantaloons  and  things  all  ftczen  as  stiff  as 
liorn,  and  having  no  fire,  I  was  obliged  to  pni  tJicm  on  to  thaw. 
Walked  on  through  the  tall  wet  grass  six  miles,  to  breakfast 
on  the  Prairie  Gratiaro,  forty  miles  from  Selkirk.     I  there  over- 
took my  men,  and  Mr.  Adam  Klyn  and  his  companion,  with  a 
spare   horse  loaded  with  their  baggage  and  provisions,  the/ 
mail,  &c.,  all  en  route  for  the  good  city  of  St.  Paul.     They 
had  previously  passed  me  two  miles  beyond,  having  left  the 
fort  yesterday  at  nine,  A.  M..  and  camped  four  miles  behind 
me ;  but  as  they  could  not  help  me  any,  it  was  at  least  some 


LE'rrKUB    FKOM    I'l  AIUINa    AM)   BKI-KIiiK. 


321 


satirifactloii  tu  know  tlicy  how.  (.nci  letter  from  ino  to  you,  if  no 


more. 


I  also  met  lliero  'Mv.  .lames  M'Coy  going  down  with  three 
horses,  one  of  wliicli  he  very  kimlly  ottered  me,  saying,  "  It 
was  better  to  rido  back  forty  or  fifty  miles,  than  to  go  ahead 
to  the  <  Prairie  au  ^laurais,'  about  twenty-live  miles  on  foot." 
I.  proposed  going  that  far  at  least,  and  wrote  to  Mr.  N.  W. 
Kittson,  by  the  express,  to  send   my   horse  immediately.     I 
therefore  thanked  him  very  kindly  and  pushed  ahead  with  a 
staff,  and  a  lirm  determination  to  get  through  ;  forded  streams 
and  swamps  with  a  perfect  contempt  for  all  obstacles,  and  at 
noon  came  to  the  lodges  of  two  half-breed  families,  situated 
on  each  side  of  a  deep  stream,  with  any  quantity  of  dogs  and 
children,  cows  and  calves;  and  I  afterward,  when  too  late, 
saw  some   horses   in   the    distance.      A   pretty-looking,    half- 
breed  woman  came  paddling  up  the  stream,  in  a  log  canoe, 
and  soon  put  us  all,  bag  and  baggage,  safely  ov  r,  when,  not 
accepting  pay  from  us,  she  threw  her  arms  around  the  neck  of 
one  of  my  voyageurs,  named  Laundry,  and  kissed  him  thrice 
—  very  fonc/th/g  and  pathetic,  truly  !     I  walked  on  solus  much 
refreshed,  thinking  of  love  and  romance  in  the  wilderness  and 
prairie,  and  of  Jacob  and  Rachel  at  the  well. 

At  two,  P.  M.,  we  stopped  to  dine  on  the  banks  of  the  only 
lake  along  the  road ;  after  >vhich  I  distanced  the  men  out  of 
sight,  and  at  five,  P.  M.,  reached  the  River  Mauraia,  the  hour 
and  place  I  had  fixed  by  letter  as  my  resting-point.  The 
men  soon  came  up,  and  at  sundown  we  started  on,  when  I  soon 
fell  I'-me  and  was  obliged  to  take  off  moccasins  and  stockings. 
The  men  were  now  out  of  sight  ahead,  on  a  full  run,  and  night 
fast  closing  in.  At  length,  a*^  dark,  after  proceeding  about 
three  miles,  I  was  overjoyed  at  meeting  a  half-breed  mounted 
on  my  good  old  horse  coming  at  full  gallop.  I  quickly  mount- 
ed into  his  place,  and  leaving  him  to  camp  upon  the  prairie, 
with  the  others,  I  returned  in  haste  at  least  ten  miles  of  the 
weary  road  through  her  majesty's  dominions,  and  crossed  the 
line  two  miles  to  the  north  of  this  as  quickly  as  I  would 
have  done  if  one  of  her  best  regiments  bad  been  upon  my 
heels.     I  reached  here  eventually  at  eight,  P.  M.,  as  near 

14* 


322 


r 


I 


SKKTCI1K8    BV   A   CAMl'-FIKK. 


a  iised-np  man  nR  woll  can  1)C,  withont  becoming  (uitirely  de- 
funct. 

Wlien  yon  consider  tliat  I  was  entirely  nnnccnstomcd  to 
such  tramps,  and  was  but  about  twenty  marching  honrs  upon 
the  road,  and  much  impeded  by  the  h)ng  prairie-grass  at  that, 
you  Avill  conclude  I  made  considerable  of  a  march. 

T  was  especially  desirous  of  reaching  hero  to-nigl  t,  in  order 
to  write  a  number  of  letters  home  \^y  this  express,  and  those 
who  receive  any  of  this  date  will  value  them  accordinglv,  tor 
they  have  cost  me  dear,  I  assure  you.     I  have  wrllten  a  detail 
of  my  journey,  for  the  reason  that  my  lower  extremities  are 
aching  as  though  compressed  within  a  two-horse-power  vice, 
and  serve  to  remind  me  of  the  one  thing  continuallv,  having 
bathed  them  in  spirits  and  hot  water,  and  anointed  them  with 
precious  ointment,  I  will  branch  off  at  st.metliing  else,  merely 
remarking  that  the  whole  road  up  lies  over  a  wide  flat  prairie 
of  rich  soil,  bordered  on  the  left  with  a  belt  of  timber  extend- 
ing along  the  river;  none  of  the  other  rivers,  except  the  Mau- 
rais,  are  timbered.     I  met  large  numbers  of  carts  going  down 
.    to  Selkirk  to  join  the  lower  ha^f-brceds  in  their  fall  hunt  up 
^'    the  Assiniboin,  keojnng  this  time  north  of  the  British  line,  in 
consequence  of  a  fight  they  had  with  the  Sioux,  over  one 
thousand  in  number,   in  July.      The  summer  hunt  was  un- 
successful.     Very  little  pemmican    was   made,  and  but  few 
robes  secured,  and  the  sooner  the  buffalo  becomes   entirely 
extinct,  the  better  it  will  be  for  them.     They  will  then  give 
up  their  wandering,  Arab  mode  of  life,  and  go  at  farming  or 
some    other  useful  occupation  for  a  living.    At  present  they 
are  as  restless  as  regular  Bedouins,  and  if  they  wore  long 
beards,  and  had  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  one  might  think  he 
was  among  the  patriarchs  of  old— "the  fathers  of  all  such  as 
dwell  in  tents." 

The  treaty  was  concluded  on  Saturday  evening,  after  the 
usual  amount  of  talk,  and  the  following  are  its  provisions. 
The  Chippewas  cede  all  their  la  A  from  the  line  north,  to  the* 
Goose  and  Buffalo  rivers,  and  thirty  miles  each  side  of  the 
Ked  river— say  a  strip  sixty  miles  in  width  by  about  one  hun- 
dred long— and  they  are  to  receive  thirty  thousand  dollars 


LIClTKltS    FltOM    THMIUNA    AHl)   tiKJ.KIKK. 


323 


cnnh  on  tho  ratification  of  it  by  tlio  soiiatij;  oiglit  tlioiiHand 
(lollavH  thereafter  caHli,  and  two  tliouHaiid  dollarH  for  schools 
annually  for  twenty  years;  the  wlude  aiuounting  to  two  hun- 
drod  and  thirty  thouHand  dollars.  I  have  not  had  time  to  ex- 
amine tho  treaty  yet,  but  supposo  they  remain  upon  tho  lauds 
and  have  all  the  advantages  as  before,  excepting  where  they 
may  bo  settled  upon  and  cultivated.  They  may  eonsider  it  a 
present  of  the  above  amount,  as  during  their  own  lifetime  they 
■will  be  but  little  intruded  upon.  It  is  midnight  and  my  sjiaco 
is  full. 


Pemiiixa,  Thursday,  Scplcinbcr  25,  1851. 

We  leave  for  St.  Paul  on  Wednesday  next,  1st  October; 
our  first  day's  march  will  be  to  the  new  town  of  St.  Jos»'ph 
on  the  Pembina  mountain,  as  it  is  called,  thirty  miles  to  tlio 
Avest  of  this  place,  the  governor  having  agreed  to  meet  the 
h.'ilf-breeds  there,  a  number  being  about  to  assemble  for  the 
fall  hunt.  I  have  just  learned  that  those  from  the  settlements 
across  the  line  are  also  coming  up,  and  that  there  will  bo 
some  three  hundred  lodges  there.  They  will  hunt,  however, 
along  the  line,  and  on  tho  British  side,  the  buffalo  being  found 
on  that  side  as  well  as  ours,  Captain  Pope  to  the  contrary  not- 
withstanding. St.  Joseph  contains  half  a  dozen  houses  and 
two  stores,  llev.  Mr.  Bellecourt  resides  there,  and  is  erecting  a  / 
log  church ;  and  I  have  heard  of  Mr.  Kittson's  determination 
to  break  up  the  post  at  this  place,  and  remove  there  too,  the 
ground  here  having  overflowed  for  the  last  three  years  s".cces- 
fiively,  Red  river  rising  thirty-one  and  thirty-three  feet  above 
low-water  mark,  and  houses  on  the  point  between  the  junction 
of  Red  river  and  Pembina,  being  flooded  to  the  depth  of  one 
and  three  feet  this  year  and  last.  Mr.  Kittfon  was  obliged  to 
leave  and  live  upon  hills  near  by  for  more  than  a  month,  last 
spring. 

The  heaviest  floods  known  in  the  country  occurred  in  1824, 
'25,  and  '26  ;  the  latter  year  the  waters  rose  sixty-six  feet  in 
height,  and  tliew'.  ole  country  was  comnletely  drowned  out; 
a  large  party  left  Selkirk  in  consequence  and  made  an  over- 


■5 


334 


SKETCHES   BY   A   CAMP-FIUE. 


land  journey  across  the  plains  to  St.  Peter's  and  Galena,  near 
wliich  last  place  tbey  settled. 

These  floods  are  a  serious  objection  to  this  valley,  and  to 
Pembina  in  particular,  the  site  of  which  is  comparatively  low; 
though  I  think  that  having  occurred  only  at  intervals  iiereto- 
Ibre,  it  Avill  be  many  years  before  the  like  occurs  again.     I'art- 
ly  in  consequence  of  this  state  of  things,  there  is  not  a  i)article 
of  farming  done  here  now,  and  on  our  arrival  we  were  obliged 
to  send  immediately  to  Selkirk,  for  barley  for  our  horses.     A 
dozen^  voyageurs,  in  a  large  barge,  brought  up  one  hundred 
and  sixty  bushels,  and  occupied  nine  days  to  make  the  trij), 
having  to  wait  till  this  year's  crop,  which  was  cut  and  still 
standing  in  the  fields,  in  shocks,  was  thrashed.     They  started 
back,  on  Tuesday,  for  one  hundred  and  sixty  bushels  more, 
and  upon  their  arrival  we  will  march.     Barley  is  worth  in  this 
settlement  seventy-five  cents  a  bushel,  and  costs  us  here  about 
one  dollar  and  fifty  cents.     Its  usual  price  when  no  extra  de- 
mand takes  place,  is  fifty  cents;  and  for  M'lieat,  seventy-five 
cents,  the  price  paid  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  year 
round;    butter  and  eggs,  sixpence;    meat,  fourpence;    flour, 
three  to  five  dollars  per  hundred  pounds,  according  to  kind, 
three  of  which  are  made.    The  people  revel  in  abundance.    The 
■worst  of  it  is,  they  have  no  proper  outlet  for  their  surplus  prod- 
uce, to  stimulate  them  to  increased  exertions,  but  this  is  owing 
to  their  situation  merely,  and  is  an  evil  time  alone  can  remedy, 
as  they  are  brought  nearer  to  us  by  the  iron  chain,  and  a  mar- 
ket opened    to  rouse  them  into  more  activity  and  life.     At 
present  they  pay  seven  shillings  and  sixpence,  for  their  lands, 
per  acre.     Each  settler  has  a  frontage  of  six  chains  upon  the 
river,  and  extends  back  two  miles  in  depth.     Only  a  small 
part,  however,  of  this  is  cultivated.     The  houses  are  of  logs, 
thatched    and    shingled  ;    are   w^arm   and    very    comfortable ; 
hmne  of  the  lasgor  are  of  frame,  two-story,  and  a  few  of  stone  ; 
all  have  a  plenty  of  barns  and  stables,  with  a  number  of  largo 
stacks  of  M-hcat,  hay,  and  barley,  and  as  we  happened  there 
ill  their  grain  harvest,  the  peoj)ie  were  all  busy  in  the  fields. 
The  Indians  and  half-breeds,  men,  M'onien,  and  children,  reap- 
ing and  l)iiiding  grain;  otiiers,  with  horse    nd  ox-carts,  haul- 


LKTTKRS    ruoM    )'F.:\II:I.N.\    .\M>    .-Kf.Kl  iv'K. 


325 


The 


iiig  in  llie  s.'uiio  and  stackin}^  it.  It  afforded  an  inti'vcsling 
and  novel  si^lit  in  contrast  ^itli  onr  early  harvest  of  July. 
It  usually  takes  place  hero  about  the  20tli  August,  and  is  a 
full  month  later  this  year  than  common,  the  season  having 
been  very  cold  and  wet  up  to  the  17th  August,  up  to  which 
time  fears  were  entertained  for  the  loss  of  the  whole  crops. 
The  weather  fortunately  changed,  and  for  a  month  was  very 
warm  and  fine.  The  grain  all  ripened,  and  the  yield  is  large. 
Of  wheat  twenty  to  twenty-five  bushels,  and  barley  thirty-fiv(^ 
to  forty  bushels,  per  acre  ;  spring  wheat  is  sown  from  the  20tii 
to  25th  of  ]\Iay,  and  barley  from  the  1st  to  5th  of  June  ;  pota- 
toes, the  largest  and  finest  I  have  ever  seen,  produce  largely, 
moi-e  to  the  acre,  than  in  Minnesota.  Incilau  corn  matures, 
but  is  not  raised  to  much  extent ;  a  small  variety  is  grown, 
but  the  situation  is  too  near  Lake  Winnipeg,  which  influences 
their  climate,  and  the  late  spring  frosts  are  apt  to  injure  it.  I 
am  told  that  corn  matures  here  better,  and  that  the  season  is 
about  one  week  later  in  the  fall,  than  down  below.  We  had 
hot  corn  on  our  table  on  the  12th  instant,  the  day  after  our 
arrival  here,  Avhich  was  grown  in  Mr.  Kittson's  garden,  but  it 
will  never  be  much  cultivated  in  these  settlements,  the  other 
cro2)s  proving  moio  valuable. 

The  English  and  Scotch  settlers  extend  along  both  sides  of 
Red  river,  from  the  Assiniboin  to  lower  Fort  Garry,  or  "  the 
fitone  post,"  as  it  is  called,  about  twenty  miles  below.  This  is 
Jar  the  best  post  of  the  settlement ;  eighteen  windmills  are 
scattered  along  the  west  bank,  upon  which  this  lengthy  ser- 
pentine village  of  six  thousand  people,  is  principally  situated, 
and  along  the  line  is  a  solitary  v/nter-mill,  and  another  at 
Sturgeon  creek,  about  eifrht  miles  up  the  Assiniboin,  built  by 
Ml*.  M'Dermott,  a  very  wealthy  and  enterprising  Irish  citi:2en, 
wiio  came  out  to  the  colony  in  1812.  He  is,  therefore,  one  of 
the  pioneers,  a  free,  good,  hearty,  and  sociable  gentleman. 
He  is  in  fact  an  every  man's  man,  and  has  an  open  house  and 
a  ready  hand  to  offer  to  friend  or  stranger.  To  his  son-in-law, 
Mr.  Ballantiuc,  I  am  much  indebted  also,  for  various  kind  at- 
tentions showr,  and  I  can  assui'e  you,  I  never  was  among  a 
kinder  people. 


«" 


iiU. 


M 


32G 


SKKICIIIS    TiY    A    UAMl'-FIHK. 


tW- 


The  Rev.  John  Black,  from  j\[oiitrcal,  who  accompanied 
ouv  party  out  from  8t.  I'aiil,  was  also  very  warmly  Avelcomed ; 
liis  arrival  had  been  long  expected  and  generally  known 
among  all  classes. 

As  we  passed  down  the  settlement  on  our  first  arrival,  peo- 
ple came  out  and  took  us  hy  the  hand,  told  us  we  were  stran- 
gers, and  asked  if  the  now  minister  was  not  soon  coming  also. 
His  Scotch  i)arishioncrs  have  just  built  him  a  house,  thirty  by 
forty  feet,  of  hewn  logs,  with  shingle  roof,  Avhich  he  will  use  as 
a  church  this  winter,  and  afterward  as  a  residence.  They  in- 
tend to  Luild  him  one  of  stone  next  year.  They  made  many 
inquiries  concerning  him  of  me,  and  were  all  much  ilisap^ioii^t- 
ed  at  finding  he  did  not  speak  the  Gaelic.  That  heVvas  a 
gentleman  and  a  Christian,  a  good  French  scholar,  and  spoke 
the  English  fluently,  did  not  make  amends  altogether  for  his 
deficiency  iu  not  understanding  Caelic,  which  is  the  tonguo 
they  use 

The  episcopalians  have  three  fine  churches  surmounted  by 
high  steeples,  two  large  ones  built  of  stone,  at  each  end  of  the 
English  part,  and  near  the  forts,  and  one  of  logs  near  the  cen 
tre.  Bishop  Anderson,  who  resides  at  the  upper  church,  had 
also  a  fine  academy,  and  a  neat  Avhite  two-story  building,  with 
grounds  attached. 

The  catholics  have  a  large  cathedral  opposite  the  upper  fort, 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Assiniboin,  built  of  stone,  in  1832,  and 
still  unfinished ;  the  huge,  massive,  prison-like  wall  in  front 
being  cracked  and  shattered,  and  is  surmounted  by  two  stee- 
ples—  one  finished,  the  bare  timbers  of  the  other  towering 
aloft,  dark  with  age.  The  interior  was  being  remodelled  — 
carpenters  were  at  work;  the  high,  arched  ceiling  just  painted 
of  a  deep  mazarene  blue,  and  men  at  work  on  scaffolding  dec- 
orating it  Avith  wreaths  and  festoons  of  flowers  painted  in  a 
very  artist-like  manner.  I  was  told  that  the  nuns  at  the  con- 
vent just  by  were  to  have  done  that  part  of  the  work,  though 
they  were  not  present  when  I  was  there. 

Some  five  or  six  priests  are  connected  with  the  church,  and 
the  congregation  are  mostly  half-breeds  from  the  settlements 
up  the  Red  river. 


THE   SELKIKK    SLTTLK.MliNT. 


327 


At  tlie  fort  there  arc  thirteen  resident  families  of  pensioners, 
and  the  remainder,  to  the  number  of  seventy,  reside  within 
two  miles'  distance,  up  the  Assiniboin,  on  the  north  bank. 
They  have  each  twenty  acres  of  ground,  and  tliose  most  dis- 
tant up  the  river  have  forty  acres,  well  fenced  and  cultivated, 
with  neat  one-story  log  and  frame  houses,  painted  white,  and 
everything  around  them  betokens  plenty.  None  are  incapaci- 
tated for  manual  labor,  and  many  are  quite  yoinig;  and  while 
some  have  lost  nothing  but  a  finder  or  thumb,  others  perhaps 
have  lost  less  useful  members,  and  arc  sound,  active,  and  hardy 
fellows.  Still  they  have  done  the  state  same  service,  and  thev 
know  it  too,  and  growl  continually  that  they  are  not  better  off. 

I  can  say  no  more  concerning  Selkirk  or  its  people,  for  the 
express  is  ready  to  start. 


If 


<u 


Tnr.  following  is  some  additional  information  concerning 
Pembina  and  Selkirk  : — 

The  attention  of  traders  and  merchants  is  at  this  time  turned 
wath  a  good  deal  of  interest  toward  the  northwest,  more  par- 
ticularly the  lied  river  or  Selkirk  settlement,  and  to  Pembina, 
which  is  now  merely  a  small  trading-post  within  the  American 
line.  Before  the  running  of  the  line  of  division  betAveen  the 
American  and  British  territory,  on  the  forty -ninth  parallel  of 
latitude,  Pembina  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Selkirk  settle- 
ment. Since  that  time  it  has  steadily  declined,  till  within  a 
year  or  tw^o.  The  government  has  contracted  to  run  a  regular 
monthly  mail,  tAvelve  times  in  the  year,  between  St.  Paul  and 
Pembina,  and  hereafter  communication  may  lie  considered  as 
regularly  established.  The  journey  is  made  in  the  summer  on 
horseback,  and  in  the  Avinter  with  dog-teams  and  show-shoes. 
The  more  difficult  season  for  performing  the  service  will  be 
during  the  high-Avater  montln.  of  j\[ay  and  June;  for  between 
Pfnubina  and  St.  Paul  there  arc  fifteen  or  sixteen  rivers  which 
h.'ive  to  be  crossed  otherwise  than  by  fording — usually  by  rafts 
and  buff'alo-canoes.  Many  of  the  streams  are  annually  bridged 
over  by  the  caravans  of  traders,  and  as  often  SAvept  aAvay. 


\\r 


;  i| 


■ 


o 


28 


ski;t('ijks  i;v  a  cami--i<iui:. 


The  Rod 


liver  settlement  was 


<.,,.!         ^,         .  ,  originally  ])r(.jectc(l  by  Lord 

fe(  Jk.rk,  a  ScottLsh  nobleman,  largely  interested  in  tlie  Hud- 
son s  Bay  Company.  They  held  a  vast  extent  of  lands  by 
charter  from  the  Ihitish  crown.  Of  the  company  he  made  ai. 
ex  ensn-e  purchase,  and  brought  over  his  first  colonists  in 
1«I.>,  and  remained  with  them  twdve  months.  Another  ac- 
cess.on  was  made  in  1817,  and  another  in  1S23;  and  they  now 
"UH,  K-r,  ,n  Europeans,  French  Canadians,  and  half-breeds, 
ahout  seven  thousand  souls. 

One   I'nlf  the  population  are  hunters,  and  the  other  half 
warmers.      Hie   main   settlement,  known  as  "Red   River"  is 
about  si.,.y  miles  north  of  Pembina,  or  down  the  river,  and  is 
on  an  extensive  plain,  which  extends,  somewhat  broken  and  in- 
terspersed with  timber,  east  to  Lake  Winnipeg— to  the  west 
a  vast,  unbroken  plain  to  the  Rocky  mountains.     The  hunters' 
mostly  lialf-breeds,  do  nothing  but  hunt  buffalo.     They  make 
two  grand  excursions  each  year:  one  commencing  on  the  20th 
of  June,  and  lasting  two  months;   and  the  other  on  the  10th 
ot  September,  and  lasting  till  the  10th  of  November.     They 
live  wholly  on  buffalo-meat,  and  are  engaged  only  in  prepar- 
ing pemmican  meat  and  fat  — the  one  used  only  for  food   and 
the  other  for  light.     The  regular  price  of  it  is  four  cents  a 
pound,  both  fat  and  lean.     The  tongues  and  hides  only  of  the 
buffalo  are  saved.     The  regular  retail  price  of  a  tongue,  dried 
IS  twenty-five  cents,  and  a  good  robe  is   two  dollars       The 
hunters  lead  a  free,  happy,  wild,  romantic  life,  and  are,  when 
m  the  settlement,  temperate  and  well-behaved. 

The  farmers  raise  wheat,  oats,  potatoes,  bailey,  cattle,  and 
sheep.  Oxen  are  worth  from  fifty  to  sixty  dollars  a  yoke  • 
cows,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  dollars ;  a  good  cart-horse,  forty 
or  fifty  dollars  ;  and  a  horse  trained  to  hunt  buffalo  will  bring 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars,  and  sometimes  more 
_  Then-  wheat  is  equal  to  any  in  the  world,  weighing  from 
sixty-five  to  seventy  pounds  to  the  bushel.  Barley  and  oats 
are  also  heavy;  and  potatoes  and  all  kinds  of  garden  vegeta- 
Mes  grow  luxuriantly.  The  land  i,  never  manured.  From 
ll.voe  and  a  half  to  four  feet  of  snow  falls  i.i  winter,  and  rain 
IS  unknown  from  November  to  April.     Corn  is  raised,  but  it  is 


THE    SELKIKK   SKTl'LEMKNT. 


329 


not  relied  on  as  a  sure  crop.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company- 
pay  regularly  only,  however,  for  -what  they  wisli  to  cons-umc, 
except  in  seasons  of  scarcity,  eiglity-seven  cents  a  bushel  for 
wheat,  fifty  for  oats  and  barley,  and  twenty-five  for  potatoes. 
There  is  no  export  trade.  They  receive  their  su])plies  of  dry 
goods,  woollen  cloths,  and  liquors,  from  York  factory,  a  store 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  situated  on  lludson's  bay,  seven 
hundred  miles  from  Red  Kivcr.  It  requires  two  months  to 
make  the  journey,  and  there  are  thirty-six  portages  to  be  made 
in  going  that  distance.  The  title  of  the  settlement  is  "  The 
Red  River  Colony,"  and  it  is  ruled  by  a  governor  appointed 
by  the  queen.  The  magistrates,  counsellors,  and  oflicers,  re- 
ceive their  commissions  from  the  committee  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  governor  extends  a 
hundred  miles  in  all  directions  from  Fort  Garry,  except  over 
the  American  line.  Seventy  pensioners  at  Fort  Garry  is  all 
the  military  force,  and  they  are  under  the  command  of  Major 
Caldwell,  the  governor,  who  is  also  a  pensioner. 

The  wheat  and  other  grain  is  ground  by  wiiidmills,  of  which 
there  are  eighteen,  and  two  water-mills.  There  are  no  saw- 
mills, all  the  deals  used  being  cut  up  by  whip-saws.  There 
arc  no  fulling-mills,  or  manufactures  of  any  kind. 

Above  and  below  the  settlement  on  Red  river  there  are  ex- 
tensive tracts  of  timber — of  pine,  oak,  whitewood,  poplar,  and 
cedar.  The  ice  gets  out  of  Red  river  about  the  20th  of  April, 
and  it  is  closed  about  the  1st  or  10th  of  November.  The  cold 
is  sometimes  excessive  in  the  settlement.  Mercury  freezes 
once  or  twice  every  year,  and  sometimes  the  spirit  thermome- 
ter indicates  a  temperature  as  low  as  fifty-two  degrees  below 
zero !  When  such  a  low  temperature  occurs,  there  is  a  perva- 
ding haze  or  smoky  appearance  in  the  atmosphere,  resembling 
a  generally-diffused  yellow  smoke,  and  the  sun  looks  red  as  in 
a  sultry  evening.  As  the  sun  rises,  so  does  the  thermometer ; 
and  Avhen  the  mercury  thaws  out  and  stands  at  ten  or  fifteen 
below  zero,  a  breeze  sets  in,  and  pleasant  weather  follows  — 
that  is,  as  pleasant  as  can  be  while  the  mercury  keeps  below 
zero  as  continually  as  a  fish  in  his  own  element,  and  coming 
up  above  the  surface  just  about  as  often. 


ft 


\.  1 


i 


m 


330 


SKKTCm-S    JJY    A    CAMI'-FIKIO. 


■1  f 


For  weeks,  somctinies,  tlie  ^\in(l  will  blow  from  the  north — 
temperature  say  from  five  to  ten  degrees  below  zero.  Siul- 
(lenly  it  shifts  into  the  south,  and  for  six  hours  the  thermome- 
ter will  continue  to  fall.  When,  in  summer,  the  wind  blows 
a  length  of  time  from  the  north,  it  drives  the  water  back,  and 
Red  river  will  have  its  banks  full  in  the  dryest  seasons.  The 
same  thing  occurs  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  same  direc- 
tion in  winter,  although  the  sea  and  river  are  frozen  unbrokenly 
ten  feet  thick  to  the  north  pole. 

In  the  year  1G70,  Charles  II.  granted  all  the  territory  in 
IVorth  America,  subject  to  the  British  crown,  that  was  drained 
by  waters  flowing  into   Hudson's  bay,  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  — and,  among  other  privileges,  the  exclusive  right 
to  deal   and  traffic  with  the  natives.     Besides  this  territory, 
they  have  extended  their  jurisdiction  over  the  lands  watered 
by  the  rivers  that  flow  into  the  Arctic  ocean,  and  also  that  vast 
country  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.     Their  territory,  in  fine, 
embraces  all  North  America  (with  the  exception  of  the  Rus- 
sian possessions  in  the  extreme  northwest,  and  Greenland  in 
the  northeast)  that  lies  north  of  the  Canadas,  and  the  United 
States  and  its  possessions.     The  southern  boundary  of  the  com- 
pany commences  on  the  Pacific  coast,  opposite  to  and  including 
Vancouver's  island,  at  latitude  forty-nine,  and  extends  on  this 
parallel  to  the  southeastern  point  of  the  lake  of  the  Woods, 
thence  on  the  highlands  that  divide  the  waters  which  flow  into 
Lake  Superior  and  the  St.  Lawrence  from  those  flowing  into 
Hudson's  bay  east  to  the  Atlantic  ocean.     So  much  for  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  its  possessions,  both  of  which  may 
become  objects  of  interest  in  a  few  years  to  us  and  our  neigh- 
borhood. 

Lord  Selkirk,  having  obtained  a  grant  from  the  company  of 
a  territory  extending  from  Fort  Garry  a  hundred  miles  in  a 
circle,  on  certain  conditions,  came  out  with  his  colony,  as  be- 
fore remarked,  in  1813.  They  flourished  and  increased  for 
some  time.  In  1825, 1826,  and  1827,  the  Red  river  overflowed 
Its  banks,  and  produced  universal  distress  — so  much,  that  many 
of  tlic  most  wealthy  and  ii.liueiitial  citizens  left  the  place;  a 
party  of  whom,  consisting  of  Messrs.  Francis  Langet,  Philip  F. 


THE   SELKIIIK    SKlTLiaiKNT. 


331 


bcl.nn.cr,  Louis  Chctlnin,  Petor  Rein,lsl.ncker,  Antoine  Bricker, 
1  Mill  Oyrbor,  John  Bnptisfo  Vorain,  John  Tyroy,  and  others, 
Avith  their  wives  and  families  (German  Swiss  from  Geneva  and 
that  vicnntj,  speaking  the  French  language),  came  down  and 
settled  at  Gratiot's  Grove,  near  Galena,  Illinois.  At  that  time 
there  w-ere  large  smelting  operations  carried  on  by  Colonel 
Henry  Gratiot. 

The  party  named  came  out  to  Selkirk  in  1817  — the  first 
l.;vnd  being  nearly  all  Scotchmen,  but  the  second  from  the  con- 
tinent. Tliose  emigrating  to  Illinois,  the  most  of  whom  are 
now  living,  have  been  among  the  first  citizens  and  worthy 
members  of  society,  handing  down  their  virtues  to  their  chil- 
dren. 

The  origin  of  the  floods  which  did  such  immense  damage  on 
Ived  river,  m  the  years  before  named,  has  never  been  satisfac- 
torily accounted  for;  but  it  is  surmised  that  they  came  from 
the  superabundant  water  of  the  branches  of  the  Missouri,  burst- 
ing over  the  low  ridge  which  divides  the  waters  flowing  into 
the  gulf  of  Mexico  from  those  flowing  into  Hudson's  bay. 

The  only  tax  which  the  colonists  of  Red  River  pay  is  four 
per  cent,  on  all  Lht.  goods  they  import,  whether  from  England 
or  elsewhere;  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  pay  the  same 
on  all  the  imports  they  sell  or  consume  within  the  limits  of  the 
Red-River  Colony.  The  company  import  goods  and  merchan- 
(Ase  from  England,  and  charge  the  consumer  in  the  colony 
seventy-five  per  cent,  advance  on  the  London  invoice  prices, 
ior  freight,  insurance,  duty,  land-carriage,  and  profit.  They 
sell  bar  and  sheet  iron  for  twelve  cents  a  pound ;  sugar,  Lon- 
don crushed,  twenty-four  cents;  tea,  from  fifty  cents  to  two 
dollars ;  and  other  articles  in  proportion.  The  imports  for  the 
last  five  years  have  averaged  one  hundred  thousand  dollars, 
fiom  all  sources;  and  the  one  thousand  dollars  revenue  is  de- 
voted to  schools,  roads,  bridges,  and  internal  improvements, 
all  salaries  being  paid  by  the  company.  The  colonists  export 
comparatively  nothing— the  only  article  that  will  pay  being 
furs  (not  including  buffiilo-robes),  on  which  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  have  a  monopoly,  over  which  they  watch  with  a 
jealous  eye. 


HI 

mi 


I   ,t 


332 


SKKTOIIKS    IJV    A   CAMP-Kimc. 


Sn.cotl.c  routo  has  boon  oponoil  nnd  linvollo.l  from  iVm- 
bina  to  JSt.  Paul,  tl.oy  l.nvo  comnionootl  to  hriufr  (ov,y,xx^\  ,nor- 
chnn.lusc.  Twonty  por  cont.  duty  is  domaiulcil  of  tho  Sol- 
kukors  on  bufTalo-vobos,  and  tbirty  por  cont.  on  tboir  n...oca- 
BJns.  Red  Kivor  pontU>inon  oxpross  tbo  ansnianoo  Ibat  (boy 
never  can  pay  tbat  tax.  and  tbat  boroaftor  tboy  will  bo  «.bli.r,.,l 
to  avail  (bonisolvcs  of  tbc  boats  and  Hbii)s  of  tbo  "company  " 
AA  o  presume  Conj^ress  will  look  into  tbis  matter,  and  .liscrimi- 
nato  in  tbeir  favor,  luiless  tbero  exist  good  reasons  for  a  con- 
trary  course. 


THIULTi:    TO    THE    PKOI'I.E    OK    SET.KIIIK    HETTM; 

How  swoetly  iti  Muh  liloi*!,  rolreat 

Tho  cool,  calm  cvoiiiiigs  full, 
While  sconoa  and  mHiiida  I'aniiliar  once 

A  hv-oiX  liuul  recall ! 

Or  morning,  when  tho  hi!l-.si(l«  grceu 

1h  liriglit  with  jroldcn  b.-aius. 
And  llowcrs  aa  largo  and  fair  na  tho8« 

Of  cinldhood's  wildcat  droama. 

How  deep  the  solitude  which  reigns 

In  yon  thick  forcat-gladca, 
Where  under  tangled  leaves  and  ilowors 

Bright  morn  to  twilight  fades  I  — 

Wln'le  o'er  thy  fertile  prairie  wide 

The  silvery  streamlet  flows, 
Its  music  heard,  but  not  to  break, 

The  spell  of  deep  repose. 

Selkirk  I  tliy  sweet  valo  contauia 
All  good  this  world  can  give  — 

Peace,  liealth,  and  comfort— what  remaini 
To  wish  for,  but  to  live? 

I  feel  tliy  beauty  and  thy  charms 
Demand  from  me  no  feeble  i)rai8e : 

I  have  no  power,  yet  fain  I  would 
A  better,  woriruir  tribute  raise. 


Ml  INT. 


•I  UK    i-lKI,KIUK    HKiri.lsMh'.Nr. 

For,  ('iiiil.l  I  loiiM-  lliJM  .•lii'i'ifiil  villi', 
And  <j)iil.  l\\y  lio.^piluhlK  lonfn, 

Williiiiil,  (1110  Myt}\,  (iiio  keen  ic^ro*,, 
And  of  lliy  nii'iilM  Icavti  no  pniofH  — 

I  hIioiiIiI  iinwdi'Miily  ropny 
Tlin  liinilnoK     if  llumc  IVitMidn 

WImwi  worlJi  tli'Horvi'H  an  warm  n  lay 
An  l(»vo  or  iVicndHliip  i>vi'r  potiM. 

My  f<)(tlHli>pi\  {''ill..,  p.Mcliancc,  may  had 

Ti»  (illior  landn  and  olimcH, 
And  U'caclicnKm  M<>nmry  may  lorK<i(. 

Till"  jiiyn  of  liy^orid  timoH: 

Hid.  limn,  Hwn'f  Sillurk,  from  my  licarf,, 
'I'lmntrli  wrary  I'li'n  and  worn, 

'J'lion(4li  (-ari'  and  Horrow  (iiond  my  |ial,|i, 
Thy  nanio  Hliall  n«(.  bo  l,<»rii  I 

I  lovo  Mu'o  —  for  (liy  woodland  mvtiuit 
Ilocall  my  oInldliood'H  honni; 

Ami  an  my  milivo  hI.uIo  jh  dour, 
Wo  aro  Ihy  wcxmIh  himI  tlowenil 


»aa 


1 1' 


Si    ; 


334 


MSTANCLa    AND   SOUNDINGS. 


TAULK   OK    I)lsrAN(  l-y,    llV   TlIK    I.ANI.    IKMTK,    Kr.<.M    TlIK    MOVTIl    t)K  TIIK   MINNKW.TA 

TO    TlIK    I'KMl'.INA    HKITl.KMKNT. 


From  Kurt  Snt'lliiijf. 


To  fnlla  of  St  Anthony 

To  KanfillV,  at,  nioul  li  of  Uice  creek , 

To  mouth  of  Uiini  river 

To  inoiitli  of  Klk  river * , 

'J'o  ]V\ir  hike \ 

To  I5ii;  inoailows    [^ 

'I'o  Sank  ?'Hpi(l8 

To  David  lake '.'..".*."..' 

To  White-Bear  hike 

To  Pike  hike '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 

To  main  hrancli  of  Chippewn  river 

To  roinine  tie  Terre  or  I'otato  river 

To  Rabbit  river 

To  first  crosaiiii^  of  Red  river  of  the  Nortli  ,  , . 
To  second  crossing  of  Ked  river  of  the  North. 

To  Wiid-Iliee  river 

To  Shayenne  river 

To  Maple  river. 

To  Rush  ri  ver „ | '  *  ] 

To  second  point  of  Rush  river ..'. 

To  point  of  ridi^e * 

To  main  branch  of  Elm  river 

To  south  branch  of  Goose  river 

To  Salt  lake 

To  main  branch  of  Goose  river 

To  crossing  of  Goose  river 

To  Turtle  river    !!...'..*.' 

To  Big  Salt  river 

To  Little  Salt  river 

To  Little  Hill  river '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.', 

To  Steep  Hill  river \[ 

To  Hartshorn  river 

To  Mud  liver  and  Poplar  island [ , 

To  branch  of  Tongue  I'iver ' . 

To  mouth  of  Pembina  river " . 


TABLE   OF  SOCNDIN'GS   OF   RED   RIVER   OF  THE    NORTH,    ETC. 


Milfn. 

Totiil. 

n 

1 

H 

1(5f 

'.) 

2r.|f 

D! 

:!8f 

H 

*•'. 

\^ 

t;r,i 

11 

7(ii 

UK 

lor.i 

Hit 

11(4 

8 

l.Vji 

11 

!(•.:;  i 

10 

nsi 

12 

isr.i 

18 

2o;;i 

'20 

22:;i 

m 

TM 

11 

218 

17 

2C.5 

]8i 

2K::i 

H 

2',t;{ 

1(5 

;!o<.» 

H 

;iic.i 

H 

;!2.^ 

H 

;!:i;!4 

loi 

;mi 

2i 

;fic.J 

18 

;i(i-ii 

li.§ 

.'i84 

9 

;ii)S 

12^ 

'UK>^ 

H 

410 

3 

418 

1 

420 

1(5 

4;m 

U)i 

440i 

From  moufh  of  Pembina  river  to  the  mouth  of  Red-Lake  river 15  ' 

From  Red-Lake  river  above  mouth .'.".'!.*.*   14 

From  Red-Lake  river  to  mouth  of  Goose  river !.'.".'!.',' 13 

Over  rapids  near  mouth  of  Sand-llill  river t5 

Goose  river  aliove  mouth .'!."'..'.".",.""!'      r,i 

From  mouth  of  Goose  river  to  mouth  of  Shayenne '.!!*.*.."'    11 

Shayenne  river  above  mouth ."!.'!."."."!.* (;4 

From  Shayenne  river  to  mouth  of  Wild-Rice  river* . ." ." ." .' .' .......  y 

From  Wild-Rice  river  to  Sioux- Wood  river, '.  '.  '.  '.     8* 

Sioux- Wood  river  above  mouth 4 

Ottertail  lake 19 


APPENDIX. 


^     I'RINCR     UIII'KIIt'h     LAND Till".     IIIJOSOV     HAY    AND     NOIITIIWKHT 

COMI'ANY THK     KHQUIMAIIX,     MONTAONKM,     ClU.l.H,     HAIJTI'.UX, 

BIOUX,    ASSINIHOINS,    laO. 

TiiK  l'i)ll()\vin{jj  intorcKtln}]!;  mnttor,  dtiHcriptivo  of  I'lincc^  Ru- 
pert's luiul,  etc.,  is  IVoin  tlio  pen  of  the  Itcv.  (J.  A.  n«'llec<)urt, 
of  I'eniltinn,  and  was  a(l(l^(^HHe^l  to  tlie  Hon.  Alexander  Itain- 
sey,  president  of  the  "  Minnesota  llistorieal  Soeit^ty."  It  wan 
written  in  French,  and  its  uble  transhitiou  was  nmdo  by  MrB. 
Lctitiu  May,  of  St.  I'aul. 

Tlio  discovery  of  America,  by  Christojdier  Colnnihufl,  in 
1492,  gave  a  new  iinph.se  to  tlio  .j  '"it,  of  enlerpriH<\  From 
that  period,  bold  navigators  b'Uinciied  fearlessly  out  into  tho 
broad  bosom  of  the  ocean,  ami  eontinnod  to  make,  from  time 
to  time,  new  discoveries  in  the  field  which  liad  been  laid  open 
to  them  by  tho  noblo  and  devoted  persoveranccj  of  their  great 
predecessor. 

It  Avas  about  tlio  year  1G07,  that  tho  cehibrated  navigator, 
Henry  lEudson,  tlien  in  tho  employ  of  tho  English,  discovered 
the  magnificent  bay  to  wliich  he  gave  his  name;  and  in  JGll, 
pursuing  his  researches,  he  penetrated  five  hundred  leagues 
farther  north  than  any  travelUu*  had  done  before  him.  It  was 
this  same  year  that  two  missionaries,  Fathers  Masse  and  liiart, 
arrived  in  Canada. 

Some  time  after  this  period,  tho  Fnglish,  in  order  to  profit 
by  the  discoveries  Avhicli  had  been  made  in  their  nanm  by 
Hudson,  commenced  some  scttlcmcntti  in  the  vicinity  of  Kud- 
son's  bay,  and  entered  into  a  kind  of  traflic  for  furs  with  tho 


^'30 


Al'IMNDIX. 


11 


II     I 


if 


f  I  .i 


Tiidinns,  who  (IohccihIi'iI,  (InriiiM^  flio  snimror  sonson,  tlio  vnrioiis 
Htrcwins  whU'h  jxMir  tlicir  wnfcrn  into  tliis  hny,  Iriiigiiif^  with 
tliciji  those  trnjihics  of  their  kiioccss  in  the  chnse. 

'i'liese  Hetth'is  l)nilt  at  first  only  a  few  lioiises  in  whieli  to 
pass  the  Avinter.  Here  they  snflered  greatly  from  tlie  seurvy, 
whieh  hroko  out  among  tliem.  ]hit  the  st.oiig  desire  of  gain 
whieh  actuated  them,  rendered  them  regardh^ss  alike  of  tho 
ravages  of  disease  and  the  rigor  of  the  climate. 

The  French  of  Canada  also  wished  to  estahlish  themselves 
ill  this  region,  pretending  that,  as  that  country  formed  a  part 
of  the   same  continent  as  New  France,  they  had  the  right   to 
trade  with  the  natives  that  high  up  and  even  higher.     Heveral 
of  their  adventurers  had  penetrated  as  far  north  as  the  bay 
of  Hudson,  as  early  as  the  year  1G5G,  and  in  the  intermediate 
time  between  that  and  the  year  1G80;  when  Groseillers  and 
Radisson  left  Quebec  for  the  above-named  bay  with  two  ves- 
sels, which  were  but  poorly  equipped  for  such  an  expedition. 
The  persons  engaged   in  this  enterprise   only  succeeded    in 
erecting  a  few  forts,  whence  they  sallied  forth  and  attacked 
the  English  settlements  in  the  neighborhood,  and  Mere  in  their 
turn   attacked  by  them  ;  thus   exhibiting,  in   the  horrors  of 
civilization,  more  cruelty  than  the  savages  with  whom  they  had 
come  to  trade.     Such  have  been,  at  every  period,  among  the 
sad  effects  of  an  inordinate  love  of  gain.     These  dissensions 
between  the  English  and  the  French  did  not  cease  till  the 
ratification  of  the  treaty  of  Utrecht. 

The  result  of  these  wars  between  the  two  contending  people 
was,  that  the  English  obtained  the  sole  occupancy  of  the 
neighborhood  of  Hudson's  bay,  and  both  shores  of  Nelson 
river.  But  many  French  companies,  established  jjnrtly  at 
Montreal,  continued  the  commerce  in  furs  ;  which  they  prac- 
tised almost  exclusively  in  all  the  rest  of  the  northwestern 
part  of  North  America,  extending  their  expeditions  even  so  far 
as  the  Rocky  mountains.  Many  places  in  these  regions  still 
retain  the  names  of  celebrated  personages  and  houses  which 
existed  at  the  time  of  their  discovery;  as,  for  instance,  Lake 
Bourbon,  Dauphin  river,  Fort  la  Reine  ;  and  a  missionary,  of 
whom  I  have  not  lieen    able  to  learn  the  name,  made  several 


PKINi  K    Kl'I'Kitrs    I.ANh. 


n.'jT 


dnyH'  mnrcli   tip  tlic  river  Saska«lji\vjm  [Kisishu^ljiinni,  rnrn'vt 
which  tufiDi  round). 

AVo  have  no  ovitlciicc  that,  tho.  Frciicli  nseciuhul  liij^luM'  wy 
tliau  tluTO  (lays'  uiaicli  ahovo  Lake  Hoiiihon,  alotij;?  tlui  vlvi'i 
Pas,  or  Saskadjiwan.  The  lust  who  lot't  Catwulu  with  views 
of  comnierco  in  this  country,  won  Thomas  Oiirry,  who  ascended 
the  river  Saskadjiwan,  in  1700.  Up  to  this  time  the  Canadian 
traders  did  not  venture  any  higher  up  tlwin  Grand  Portage,  at 
the  northern  extremity  of  Lake  Superior.  His  voyafjje,  which 
proved  to  he  very  jirofitalde,  encouraged  others  to  loHow  iiis 
example.  .,..nu!s  Finley  made  a  voya<^e  also,  which  was 
equally  happy.  lUit  as  these  adventurers,  in  travellinj^  thus 
far  into  the  interior,  intercepted  the  furs  which  had  hefore  this 
time  heen  hroughthy  the  Indians  to  Hudson's  hay,  the  English 
traders  hecame  jealous  of  them,  and  advanced  farther  into 
tho  interior.  From  this  we  date  the  commencement  of  a  long 
series  of  disorders  and  excesses,  of  which  the  details  were  the 
more  revolting  as  the  certainty  of  im^  nity  gave  free  course  to 
all  the  passions. 

Joseph  Frohisher  undertook  to  penetrate  farther  than  any 
of  his  predecessors  had  done,  and  went  as  far  as  Churchill, 
which  is  heyond  tho  fifty-nuith  degree  of  latitude.  The  fol- 
lowing year  his  hrothcr  Avent  as  far  as  L'lle  a  la  Crosse.  In 
1778,  Peter  Pond  entered  English  river,  thus  called  hy  Froh- 
isher, and  pursued  his  course  to  the  river  L'Origual,  where  he 
passed  the  winter.  One  day,  after  he  had  made  some  of  the 
Indians  drunk,  he  was  so  annoyed  hy  them  that,  to  rid  himself 
of  their  importunity,  he  gave  one  of  them  so  large  a  dose  of 
laudanum  that  he  was  plunged  into  an  eternal  sleep.  This 
murder  cost  the  life  of  a  trader  and  all  his  assistants.  And 
any  trader,  or  any  white  man,  who  would  have  dared  f'  show 
his  face  in  this  place,  or  on  the  Assiniboin  river,  wouid  l'a\  > 
fallen  a  victim  to  the  sanguinary  vengeance  of  these  cxhs- 
perated  savages,  had  not  the  smallpox  broken  out  among  them, 
and  produced  a  diversion  in  favor  of  the  Avhites.  This  dread- 
ful scourge  spread  terror  and  desolation  among  all  these  people. 
Whoever  was  not  attacked  by  it  fled  into  the  most  profound 
diqiths  of  the  forest,  I'ar  from    the  presence    of   the   whites. 


t 


338 


AIM'KNDIX. 


About  two  thirds  'of  llicir  population  pcriKliod.  Tlioir  corpses 
];iy  on  tlic  ground  ;  tlic  niiisli-rs  bocaiiio  tlic  food  of  tlieir  ova 
dogs,  or  of  tlio  wolves.  From  this  period  is  dated  also  the 
army  of  the  great  picotto  (quarrel).     This  was  about  1780. 

This  same  year  Tester  l*ond  formed  a  partnership  v/itli  Mr. 
Wadin.  These  two  men  were  of  a  character  too  opposite  to 
bo  united,  as  it  soon  appeared.  At  a  festival  given  by  Pond 
to  Wadin,  the  latter  was  killed  by  the  former,  who  shot  him 
in  tl  :»  thigh  with  a  pistol.  Tlic  ball  broke  the  artery,  the 
hemorrhage  from  whicdi  could  not  be  stopped  ;  so  he  died. 
Pond  was  tried  and  acquitted  at  Montreal,  but  he  was  not 
acquitted  in  the  eyes  of  the  people  who  heard  of  the  trans- 
action. And,  in  general,  the  jp'V'  ent  pronounced  in  his 
case  was  considered  as  unheard-oi,  .,-.  as  containing  too  much 
ot  the  mysterious  to  do  honor  to  the  judge  who  pronounced  it. 

In  1781,  four  canoes  filled  with  traders  went  up  as  high  as 
"  Portage  (Ic  1(1  LocJic,''  some  high  lands  between  the  Saskad- 
jiwan  river  and  the  Polar  sea.  At  last,  in  1783,  was  formed 
the  company,  which  has  since  become  so  famous,  under  the 
name  of  the  Northwestern  Company.  The  first  factors  were 
Benjamin  and  Joseph  Probisher,  and  Simon  M'Tavish.  It 
was  fvst  composed  of  sixteen  jjartners.  P.  Pond  and  P.  Pang- 
man  refused  to  join  it,  though  ^hc  former  changed  bis  mind  the 
next  year.  P.  Pangman  joined  '"  ith  Gregory,  M'Leod,  and 
M'Kenzie,  in  1785. 

These  opposing  interests  were  the  cause  of  disorders  of 
every  kind  ;  so  much  so,  that  these  companies  rendered  them- 
selves despicable  even  in  the  eyes  of  the  savages,  who  Avere 
astonished  to  find  that  their  own  manners  Averc  much  better 
than  those  of  men  whom,  in  other  respects,  they  regarded  as 
being  greatly  superior  to  themselves.  In  one  of  these  difficul- 
ties, Grf^gory  saw  one  of  his  companions  killed  before  his 
eyes,  and  several  of  their  assistants  wounded.  It  was  easy  to 
be  conceived,  that  their  common  interest  demanded  a  sincere 
and  cordial  union.  This  they  comprehended  somewhat  later  ; 
and  at  last,  in  1787,  all  these  comnanies  united  together,  and 
thus  increased  the  number  of  partners  to  twenty-six.  The 
forty  thousand  jiounds  sterling,  which  their  commerce  yielded 


PKINCK    RLl^KKTiS    LAND. 


339 


tlicin  al  that  time,  was  ti'cLled  in  less  tliaix  eluven  yoars.  In 
179S  tlio  company  increased  the  number  to  forty-six,  ^vhicli 
cansctl  some  dissatisfaction,  and  led  a  small  number  of  tlieni 
to  form  a  separate  company.  Nevertheless,  the  Northwest 
Company  had  become  too  powerful  to  dread  any  such  divisions. 
It  continued  to  prosper,  in  spite  even  of  the  opposition  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company. 

This  last  company  took  advantaf^-e,  as  it  still  does,  of  a 
charter  granted  by  Charles  II,  to  his  cousin  Rupert.  This 
document,  although  illegal  according  to  the  IJritish  constitution, 
lias  been  strongly  sustained.  It  gr;  s  the  most  absolute 
powers,  and  concedes  a  sovereignty  more  despotic  than  Charles 
himself  possessed.  Though  the  governmental  department  has 
sufficiently  expressed  themselves  iipMi  the  subject  of  the  ille- 
gality of  this  contract,  yet  the  friends  of  this  company  have 
always  been  so  powerful  as  to  prevent  an  official  declaration 
to  this  eflect,  by  contending  that  the  subject  should  first  un- 
dergo a  discussion  in  court.  Thus,  those  who  are  opposed  to 
t'>e  pretensions  of  this  company,  not  having  enough  of  money 
to  sustain  the  process,  fearing  that  gold  and  favor  would 
prove  the  stronger  argument,  find  themselves  obliged  to  sub- 
mit to  a  usurpation  which  they  can  not  ])revent. 

Though  they  complained  of  these  abuses  a  few  years  ago 
by  petition,  which  was  ably  sustained  at  London,  and  Avhich 
occasioned  a  good  deal  of  excitement  in  England,  the  only 
effect  produced  here,  was  to  abate  in  a  small  degree  the  bold- 
ness of  the  pretensions  of  this  company,  which  tended  to  a 
perfect  tyranny.  In  proof  of  this,  I  Avill  adduce  a  few  in- 
stances of  their  impositions  : — On  one  occasion  they  seized  the 
effects  of  a  hunter,  upon  suspicion  that  he  might  exchange 
some  of  them  with  the  Indians  for  furs.  On  another  occasion 
they  caused  a  hunter  to  be  imprisoned  for  having  given  one 
of  his  overcoats  to  a  naked  Indian,  for  about  its  value  in  rat- 
skins.  They  also  refuse  to  allow  the  missionaries  to  receive 
iurs  to  sustain  the  expenses  of  public  worship;  while  the  In- 
dians can  not  obtain  any  money  from  the  company  for  tlieir 
furs ;  and  forbid  the  missionaries  to  buy  leather  or  skins  to 
protect  Uieir  feet  from  the  cold.     These,  and  a  thousand  other 


i  # 


If!* 


34(1 


Al'l'KNDJX. 


p-ioAnnct's  call   so  londly  for  redress,  (li;it    I   tliink   a  small 
iiirroasc  of'tlio  l)nnlcn  Avill  cnusc  tlio.  evil  to  correct  itself. 

AI)ont  the.  year  1819,  tlio  Northwest  Company  had  more 
than  sixty  trading  posts  Avest  of  the  longitude  of  Lake  Bourbon, 
and  as  liigh  up  as  ►Slave  lake,  where  they  sustained  a  pros- 
perous commerce.  This  success  only  inflamed  still  more  the 
jealousy  of  the  Hudson  l*,ay  Comjjany.  Everything  that 
could  he  imagined  to  discourage  their  adversaries  or  liinder 
their  prosperity,  was  resorted  to  without  scrujde,  or  the  least 
regard  to  human  life.  They  went  so  far  as  to  burn  up  their 
bark  canoes,  and  destroy  their  traps  which  were  in  the  water, 
the  sole  means  of  subsistence  in  many  places. 

The  hostilities  which  existed  between  the  two  companies 
assumed  a  more  formal  aspect  about  the  time  of  the  esta]>lisb- 
ment  of  the  colony  of  Lord  Selkirk,  that  is,  from  ISia  to  181G. 
In  1815,  eatables  being  very  scarn  in  the  establishment,  the 
governor  of  the  colony  issued  an  order,  forbidding  any  one  to 
take  any  provisions  whatever  of  food  out  of  the  boundary  of 
the  colony.  Now  it  A\as  Avell  known  that  the  company  of  the 
Northwest,  ought  to  try  to  send  provisions  through  this 
colony,  for  the  numerous  travellers  who  were  coming  from 
Montreal,  and  who  depended  upon  their  succor,  to  enable  thein 
either  to  continue  their  route  or  return  to  Canada.  The  agent.-? 
of  tliis  company  having  been  informed  in  time,  of  the  order  of 
the  governor  of  the  colony  through  which  they  iiad  to  ])asH, 
when  they  were  descending  the  river  Assinilmin,  halted 
before  they  entered  the  territory  of  the  colony,  and  sent  a 
detachment  of  cavalry,  composed  of  half-breeds,  under  the 
control  of  Cuthbert  Grant,  at  that  time  clerk  of  this  company, 
with  orders  to  go  by  land  to  the  mouth  of  Red  river,  in  order 
to  escort  the  canoes  of  provisions  which  were  expected  down 
every  day.  Though  they  made  a  large  circuit  in  compassing 
the  angle  formed  by  the  .Assiniboin  and  Red  rivers,  this  com- 
pany of  half-breeds  w^ere  recognised  from  the  fort  of  the  colony, 
when  they  reached  the  mouth  of  the  river  Assiniboin.  Im- 
mediately upon  seeing  them.  Governor  Semple  ordered  out 
two  pieces  of  cannon  and  sent  in  great  haste  to  assemble  the 
settlers  in  the  neighborhood,  and  without  waiting  for  them  to 


-*'     « 


PRINCE    RUPERT  S    LAND. 


841 


come  together,  took  the  fiehl  with  such  persons  as  he  could 
collect  at  the  moment.  The  half-breeds,  who  saw  from  a  dis- 
tance tliese  movements  near  the  fort,  stopped  to  make  obser- 
vations. At  last  seeing  an  armed  force  coming  out  against 
them,  they  prepared  to  make  a  vigorous  resistance,  with  orders, 
nevertlieless,  not  to  make  an  attack.  When  the  English  came 
witliiu  gun-shot,  Mr.  Grant  sent  a  "avalicr  in  advance,  to  make 
some  arrangement  with  the  governor;  but  the  messenger,  far 
from  being  listened  to,  received  a  discharge  from  a  gun,  which 
he  avoided  only  by  precipitating  himself  from  his  horse.  lie 
then  hastened  back  to  his  companions.  A  combat  immediately 
commenced,  which  lasted  only  a  few  hours,  and  was  so  well- 
conducted  on  the  part  of  the  half-breeds,  that  it  cost  them  only 
one  man  ;  while  on  the  part  of  the  English,  the  governor  and 
nineteen  of  his  men  lay  on  the  field  of  battle. 

This  took  place  in  the  spring  of  1816,  at  the  time  that  Lord 
Selkirk,  who  had  come  to  reside  in  Canada,  Avas  on  his  way 
to  visit  his  colony.  He  w^as  encamped  at  t'le  extremity  of 
Lake  Superior,  on  an  isle  called  " //e  de  Traverse"  opposite, 
though  at  a  distance  from  Fort  William,  the  principal  dep6t  of 
the  Northwestern  Company,  when  he  learned  the  news  of 
what  had  taken  place  at  Red  river,  and  the  death  of  his 
protege,  Governor  Semple.  As  ht  "ns  escorted  by  a  company 
of  veterans,  he  re-embarked  with  tlie  intention  of  taking  Fort 
William,  which  he  effected  without  a  blow ;  for  as  his  ap- 
proach was  unsuspected,  he  found  the  gates  open.  He  thus 
took  possession  of  this  post  and  passed  the  winter  there. 

The  next  spring,  he  visited  his  colony,  where  he  left  some 
soldiers,  and  returned  to  Canada  by  way  of  the  United  States. 
Afier  his  arrival  at  Montreal,  he  instituted  a  suit  against  the 
Northwestern  Company,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  bar, 
both  of  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  who  were  the  only  persons 
benefited  by  it;  for  the  case  was  removed  to  England,  wh^re 
it  was  never  judged,  after  having  cost  enormous  sums. 

During  his  sojourn  at  Red  River,  Lord  Selkirk  had  remarked 
tliat  this  little  community  v/eve  altogctlicr  destitute  of  the 
principles  of  religion  and  morals ;  accordingly,  he  suggested 
to  the  catholics  of  the  place  that  they  should  address  a  petition 


Hi 


i    ' 


I    '^1 
i' 


342 


A]'1'KN1)IX. 


\l 


to  tlio  bishop  of  Quebec,  to  send  them  a  missionary.  Hin 
grace,  Josepli  Octave  Plessie,  tlien  bishop  of  Quebec,  granted 
their  request  most  willingly,  and  sent  them,  the  following 
spring,  1818,  Mr.  Joseph  Norb't  Provenchcr,  then  curate  of 
Kamouraska,  as  his  grand  vicar,  and  Mr.  S.  J.  N.  DumouHn, 
then  vicar  of  Quebec.  Having  quitted  Montreal  the  19th  of 
May,  they  reached  the  place  of  their  destination  July  16th. 

At  their  arrival,  the  colony  was  the  emblem  of  misery.  They 
had  not  yd  tried  to  plant,  except  with  the  hoe,  and  that  only 
to  procure  seed  for  the  following  year.  During  two  consecu- 
tive years,  the  ginsshoppers  made  such  devastation  among  the 
crops,  that  they  d;d  not  even  gather  seed,  and  were  obliged  to 
send  for  them  to  Trairie  du  Chion,  on  the  Mississippi  river, 
about  a  thousand  miles  distant,  'riiey  also  brought  chickens 
from  that  place,  which  multiplied  very  rapidly.  The  crop  of 
1822  was  passable,  but  the  rats  caused  great  destruction.  As 
they  had  not  yet  procured  cats,  the  country  was  infested  by 
these  vermin. 

As  the  few  animals  brought  from  Europe  by  the  Scotch 
colonies,  had  been  destroyed  during  the  troubles  of  the  prece- 
ding years,  they  were  obliged  to  procure  some  from  Prairie  du 
Chien.  Some  individuals  imported  several  pairs  of  oxen,  and 
some  cows.  At  that  time,  a  cow  sold  for  twenty-five  pounds. 
In  1825,  an  American  drove  four  or  five  hundred  oxen  and 
cows  to  that  place.  The  cows  sold  at  from  four  to  ten  pounds 
each.     Their  number  has  since  considerably  increased. 

In  1825,  the  snow  fell  tho  15th  of  October  in  great  quantity, 
and  remained  on  the  ground.  Still  more  fell  during  the  win- 
ter, which  was  one  of  the  coldest  which  liad  passed  for  twenty- 
five  years.  The  snow  melted  suddenly  about  the  last  of  April. 
The  water  had  already  risen  in  the  streams  as  high  as  the 
banks,  when  the  ice,  which  had  scarcely  diminished  in  thick- 
ness, was  dragged  away  by  the  violence  of  the  ctxrrent,  and 
taking  a  straight  course,  rooted  up  trees  and  demolished  edifices 
and  whatever  found  itself  in  its  way.  The  water  rose  five 
feet  in  the  church  of  St,  Boniface,  nearly  opposite  the  month 
of  the  river  Assiniboin,  which  is  one  of  the  most  elevated 
iliat  vicinil 


spots 


ity 


ritlNCK    KUl'ERTS    LAND, 


313 


Tlie  fisli,  tlio  principal  resmnce  of  tlie  inliahitants  at  tliii^ 
Keason  of  the  year,  were  dispersed  in  this  immense  extent  of 
■water,  and  the  fishermen  were  not  able  to  take  them,  'J'o 
crown  their  misfortunes,  the  bison  that  were  ordinarily  found 
in  abundance  near  the  river  Pembina,  went  away,  and  about 
fifteen  persons  who  had  calculated  on  this  resource,  perished 
from  hunger.  The  waters  did  not  retire  entirely  till  the  20th 
of  July  ;  when  some  persons  risked  sowing  barley,  which  came 
to  maturity. 

After  so  many  scourges  of  different  kinds,  one  would  think 
that  the  survivors  would  have  been  ready  to  abandon  for  ever  a 
country  which  offered  only  disasters  and  difficulties.  Some  of 
them  did  indeed  leave,  and  go  to  the  United  States;  others 
lived,  like  the  savages,  by  bunting  and  fishing,  for  several 
years,  after  which  they  returned  to  the  culture  of  the  earth : 
at  last,  hiaving  had  good  crops  during  several  years,  the 
remembrance  of  their  misfortunes  was  effaced.  The  same 
scourge  has  not  visited  the  place  in  a  general  manner  till  last 
year,  1852.  The  water  rose  a  foot  higher  than  in  1826,  and 
the  losses  occasioned  by  it  are  still  greater,  and  more  difficult 
to  repair.  A  greater  quantity  of  fencing,  grain,  and  property 
of  all  kinds,  has  been  carried  away  and  destroyed  by  the 
Avater  ;  then  the  lumber  being  all  destroyed  or  carried  away  to 
some  distance  from  the  colony,  the  expenses  of  building  are 
much  more  considerable.  We,  at  St.  Joseph  of  Pembina, 
are  beyond  the  reach  of  these  misfortunes. 

We  have  seen  that  the  visit  of  Lord.  Selkirk  to  Red  River, 
occasioned  missionaries  to  be  sent  to  that  colony.  The  pro- 
cess which  he  instituted  against  the  Northwestern  Company, 
though  never  judged,  was  also  productive  of  some  favorable 
results.  The  great  expense  of  sustaining  this  process,  joined 
to  those  occasioned  by  the  constant  opposition  of  a  rival  inter- 
est, and  still  more,  weariness  of  a  life  of  incessant  contentions, 
induced  these  two  companies  to  unite,  under  the  name  and 
privileges  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Some  of  the  members 
of  the  Northwestern  Company,  not  willing  to  be  known  under 
a  title  which  they  had  despised,  preferred  to  retire  from  the 
commerce. 


''lill 


1!  H 


344 


AITENDIX, 


m 


h! 


v\v 


The  union  of  those  two  compjinics  took  ])lacc  in  1822. 
Since  that  period,  the  profits  of  the  company  have  been  very 
great;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  the  people  of  the  country  have 
suflcred  by  it  in  inverse  proportion.  The  price  of  furs,  as  well 
as  that  of  merchandise  given  in  exclange,  was  regulated 
entirely  by  the  company.  The  seller  came  and  deposited  his 
furs,  and  took  from  the  trader's  store,  in  exchange,  such  things 
as  he  wished  ;  beginning  by  the  articles  of  first  necessity,  and 
stopping  when  he  was  told  he  had  enough.  This  absolute 
power  engendered,  as  can  be  readily  conceived,  many  abuses. 
The  traders,  seeing  the  people  so  submissive,  became  arrogant, 
and  gave  themselves  up,  without  any  shame,  to  every  excess 
of  innuorulity.  At  last,  missionaries  being  sent  out  in  every 
direction,  men  who  had  been  civilized  were  made  to  remember 
their  lirst  education  ;  a  reform  of  conduct  was  the  result,  and 
honesty  recovered  its  rights. 

There   Avas  a  mission  formed  near  the  Rocky  mountains, 
above  the  river  Saskadjiwan,  on  the   little  lake  of  Manitou. 
It  was  established  in  1843,  by  Mr.  J.Baptiste  Thibault,  a  priest 
of  the  diocese  of  Quebec,  who  lived  there  till  1851.     He  left 
in  his  place,  Mr.  Eourassa,  a  priest  of  the  same   diocese  of 
Quebec.     Another  mission  was  since  formed  at  the  isle  of  La 
Crosse,  by  Mr.  S.  Lafleche,  a  priest  of  the  district  of  Three 
Rivers,  and  Mr.  Als  Tache,  a  priest  of  the  diocese  of  Montreal. 
They  both  received  amission  fortius  post,  where  they  rendered 
themselves  in  1845.     Since  that  time,  several  priests  of  the 
society  of  Oblats,  of  Marseilles,  have  been  sent  on  a  mission  to 
these  mountains.     Father  Faraud  has  penetrated  farther  north 
than  any  of  the  others.     He  went  as  far  as  Great  Slave  lake. 
Chapels  for  worship  have  been  erected  in  each  one  of  these 
missions.     Among  all  these  churches,  only  one  (the  cathedral 
of  St.  Boniface)  is  built  of  stone  ;  all  the  others  are  wooden 
edifices. 

The  parish  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  of  Prairie  du  Cheval 
Blanc,  about  eighteen  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Assin- 
ibon,  existed  as  early  as  1830.  This  spot  is  the  least  ex- 
posed to  inuudation  of  all  the  surronnuhig  comitry.  This 
parish  is  composed   of  emigrants  from  Pembina,  where  there 


IMJINCI-:    UUPKRl's     LA  ,1). 


;j| 


o 


were  several  commercial  houses,  and  quite  a  iiiiml)er  of  fanners. 
But  when  Major  Long,  of  the  United  States,  had  verified  the 
point  of  the  forth-ninth  degree  of  latitude,  Pemhii  a  proving 
to  be  on  the  American  territory  tlio  Hudson  Bay  Company 
caused  the  whole  population  to  remove  to  their  side,  hy  mena- 
cing them  with  a  refusal  to  let  f1iem  have  any  sui)plies  from 
their  stores  if  they  remained.  Their  missionary,  IVFr.  Dumon- 
lin,  being  returned  to  Canada,  the  whole  colony  finished  by 
emigrating,  though  very  reluctantly,  to  Prairie  du  Cheval 
Blanc. 

Twelve  miles  higlur  up  on  the  Assiniboin,  I  built  a  chapel 
among  the  Sauteux,  where  I  had  a  very  flourishing  mission 
from  1832  till  181b,  when  I  (juitted  this  diocese  to  go  to  Pem- 
bina. Din-ing  'his  time,  I  built  another  chapel,  and  founded 
a  farm,  about  three  hundred  milus  from  the  colony  toward  the 
east,  at  a  point  called  Wabassimong,  on  the  river  Winipik. 
This  mission  was  committed  to  the  Oblats  of  Marseilles  the 
year  before  I  left  it.  At  last  being  arrived  at  Pembina,  in 
1849,  I  constructed  a  chapel  on  Red  river,  a  mile  below  the 
mouth  of  Pembina  uver,  on  the  most  advantageous  site  we 
could  select.  The  inundations  having  decided  us  to  establish 
ourselves  near  to  Mount  Pembina,  about  forty  miles  from  Red 
river,  I  built  another  chapel  of  wood,  fifty  feet  by  twenty -five, 
two  stories  high. 

The  total  population  of  the  colony  of  Selkirk  is  about  seven 
thousand  souls,  of  which  little  more  than  one  half  are  cath- 
olics ;  the  others  are  divided  between  the  church  of  England, 
presbyterians,  and  methodists.  There  is  on  Red  river  but  one 
society  of  nuns  not  cloistered.  These  came  from  Canada, 
and  are  of  the  order  of  the  sisters  of  charity  called  "  grey 
nuns"  {sasurs  grises).  Though  instruction  was  not  the  object 
of  their  institution,  they  have  been  invited  to  this  calling,  and 
have  fulfilled  its  important  functions  with  success  since  their 
arrival  in  1844. 

15* 


■li 


34G 


APl'ENDIX. 


i 


MAN'NKUS    (,y    Tin:    IMIAIMTANTS    OF    Thk    COt'NTRV. 

Tho   popul.'Kion  of  tl.o  coi.ntiy  divides   itself  into    three 
classes,  viz. :  tlic  colonists  who  come  from  Canada  or  Europe  • 
the  half-breeds,  and  their  children  ;  and  the   sava^^es.     The 
Canadians  and  the  Euroi)eans  have  brought  vith  them  that, 
spirit  of  nationality,  Avhich  leads  them  to  esteem  themselv-s 
above  the  other  inhabitants  — half-breeds,  c^e.     For  the  first 
iH.thmg  is  so  good  as  Montreal ;  for  the  others,  nothing  is  like! 
London.     The  half-breeds  being  more  numerous,  and  endowed 
Avith  uncommon   health  and  strength,  esteem  themselves  the 
lords  of  the  land.     Though  they  hold  the  middle  place   be- 
tween  civilized  and  savage  life,  one  can  say  that,  in  respect  to 
morality,  they  arc  as  good  as  many  civilized  people.     Their 
character  is  gentle  and   benevolent.     Their  greatest  vice  is 
prodigality  ;  they  have  also  an  extreme  tendency  to  the  use 
of  strong  drinks  ;  nevertheless,  the  vivacity  of  their  faith  has 
wrought  wonders  among  them  in  this  respect.     A  number  of 
them   have   taken  a  pledge  to  abstain  entirely  from  the  use 
of  all  intoxicating  liquors;  and  many  others,  without  having 
done    as    much,    still   hold    themselves    within  just    bounds. 
Though  the  half-breeds  lose  much  of  their  time  in  idleness,  I 
do  not  think  this  owes  its  origin  to  the  vice  of  indolence,  but 
rather  to  the  absencs  of  all  commercial  interest ;  that  is  to 
say,  to  the  want  of  enterprises  passably  lucrative,  or  of  rewards 
sulhciently  inviting,  to  make  them  sustain  the  fatigues  of  labor. 
For  they  are  capable  of  enduring  to  an  astonishing  degree 
the  most  horrible  fatigues,  and  they  undertake  them  with  the 
greatest  cheerfulness  when  circumstances  call  for  it.     They 
love  gaming,  but  have  no  great  passion  for  it;   and  it  is  rare 
that  any  one  of  them  delivers  himself  to  any  excess  in  this 
vice.     They  have  a  taste  for  music,  and  above  all  for  the 
violin  ;  and  a  great  many  of  them  know  how  to  play.     They 
have  a  tendency  to  superstition,  which  arises  from  their  ori-in- 
particularly  in  respect  to  dreams.     Though  religion  teaches 
them  what  they  ought  to  think  about  these   things,  they  feel 
invincibly  impressed  with  a  sentiment  of  hope  01° fear,  accor- 


riiiNCE  kui'kut's  land. 


347 


Til 


^ing  to  tlio  nature  of  the  droam.  The  third  class  of  tho 
population  of  tho  country  are  the  savages,  who  have  a  still 
stronger  Rj)irit  of  nationality  than  the  other  two,  though  they 
admit  that  they  are  not  so  skilful  in  other  respects. 

Tho  immense  valley  that  em])ties  its  waters  into  Hudson's 
bay  is  inhahited  by  a  great  number  of  savage  tribes,  who  all 
spring  from  four  mother  nations,  absolutely  distinguished  from 
each  other  hy  their  language. 

1.  All  the  people  who  border  on  tho  northern  sea,  from 
Mackenzie's  river  to  the  Atlantic  ocean,  belong  to  tho  tribe  of  " 
tho  Esquimaux.  All  speak  nearly  the  same  language,  have 
tho  same  usages,  same  su})erstitions,  and  the  same  manners. 
Small  in  statiu-e,  their  physiogomy  is  entirely  characteristic; 
and  offers  nothing  which  attaches  itself  to  the  other  American 
nations.  They  never  form  any  alliances  with  other  nations; 
■who  regard  them  as  being  as  far  inferior  to  them,  as  tliey 
themselves  are  inferior  to  the  whites.  The  name  of  the  Esqui- 
maux is  a  corruption  of  the  Avord  Weashkimek,  the  cdters  of 
raw  fish ;  this  Avord  is  Sauteux.  They  have,  like  the  other 
savage  nations,  the  use  of  the  drum.  Their  halutations  aro 
usually  made  of  snow  or  ice,  and  are  warmer  than  one  would 
he  tempted  to  believe;  hut  they  have  a  humidity  which  is 
insupportable  to  any  person  not  born  in  them.  As  they  drink 
Avhale  oil  with  great  delight,  they  expose  themselves  to  great 
dangers  to  catch  this  animal ;  Avhich  proves  that  they  are  not 
destitute  of  bravery.  Without  occupying  themselves  with  the 
reflection  that  the  lisherman  and  his  canoe  Avould  make  only 
a  mouthful  for  one  of  these  marine  monsters,  over  whom  they 
often  pass  in  the  chase  of  the  whale  —  nor  that  with  one  blow 
of  his  tail  the  whale  himself,  could  throw  them  to  the  third 
heawen,  like  to  the  feeble  bird,  which  strikes  with  its  bill  the 
crow  who  comes  to  deprive  it  of  its  young — they  throAv  tlieir 
slight  darts  at  the  back  of  the  enormous  fish,  till  they  have 
rendered  themselves  masters  of  it.  As  no  missionary  has  ever 
lived  among  this  people,  it  is  impossible  to  form  any  just  esti- 
mate of  their  mental  capacities. 

2.  The  nation  of  Montagues,  Avho  are  divided  into  several 
different  tribes,  are  the  neighbors  of  the  Esquimaux,  and  in- 


n 


I,' 


34« 


AI'PKNDIX. 


habit  a  strip  of  I.mikI  pnrcllcl  to  flioirs,  fVoiii  tlic  Rocky  inoun- 
t.'iiiis  to  tlic  nciglihorliood   of  HiuIkoii's   bay,  {iiul   cxtciuliiif,' 
southward  (..  il,,,  rivt'r  Ha.skadjiwau.     They  aiv,  pcrliaps,  of 
all  tho  sav/ip's  of  Aniorica,  the  only  oiu>s  who  have  no  kind 
of  supcrslitiou   or  worship   of  imaginary  beings.     Great   ad- 
mirers of  the  whites,  they  imitate  them  as  much  as  tliey  can. 
This  natural  disposition,  joined  to  the  absence  of  all  religious 
prejudice,  has  given  to  the  missionaries  who  are  sent  there, 
every  advantage  they  could  desire.     They  arc  now  nearly  all 
Christians,  excepting  a  certain  number  of  families  whom  the 
bonds  of  i)olygamy,  which  they  find  diilicult  to  break,  hold 
still  at  n  distance. 

The  name  of  Montague  is  not  a  translation  of  the  savage 
word  Wefshlpwcyanah—Jiaving  the  dress  jwinted—  because  the 
cap,  which  covers  their  heads,  is  pointed  and  sewed  to  a  cloak 
ov  sack  which  they  wear,  which,  under  points  of  view,  makes 
them  ai)pear  pointed  at  the  top.  This  word  is  also  of  the 
Sauteux  language.  They  live  by  hunting  the  cariboo,  and 
some  by  hunting  the  bison  ;  and  on  the  lish  with  which  all 
their  lakes  abound.  These  people  are  not  warlike,  no  more 
than  the  Esquimaux. 

^^  3.  The  Crees  who  inhabit  the  two  sides  of  the  river  Saskad- 
jiwan,  and  with  whom  we  should  join  all  the  Mashkegons, 
who  belong  to  the  same  family,  and  who  extend  in  all  the 
country  which  borders  the  bay  of  Hudson  on  the  west,  south, 
and  cast,  in  a  word,  all  the  marshy  country.     The  mother 
nation  of  these  two  numerous  tribes  seems  to  be  the  nation  of 
the  Sauteux,  which  extends  from  Canada  to  tho  river  Saskad- 
jiwan,  where  they  are  mixed  with  the  Crees,  and  are  known 
under  the  name   of  NoMairinininlwak  —  the  men   of  divers 
races.     The  word  Crees  is  also  not  a  translation  of  the  savage; 
word  Ki nisJi finale  — \iQ.mQ  held  by  the  winds.     That  is  to  say, 
the  inhabitants  of  those  places,  where  the  slightest  wind  kee])s 
them  from  travelling :  from  which  it  appears,  that  the  Crees 
originally  inhabited  the  shores  of  the  great  lakes,  such  as  Lake 
Superior;    perhaps,  also,  certain  portions  of  the  lake  of  the 
Woods,  which  one  can  not  cross  except  when  the  weather  is 
very  calm,  and  which  they  certainly  inhabited  at  one  time. 


I'KINCK    UUl'EHTH    LAND. 


319 


Tlio  word  M.'i.slikogon  is  a  corruption  of  Onmslikokok  —  tho 
iuhfibitiuits  of  tlio  injuslics.  'J'lio  only  wjiy  of  travelliiijjj  in  all 
tlie  iunncnso  r('p,i(>n  Avliich  tlioy  inhabit,  i.s  in  canoes.  1  havo 
met  old  men,  in  trav(dling  tiirougli  tlicir  country,  who  had 
never  seen  a  horse. 

The  word  Hauteux,  which  seems  to  lave  been  given  to  this 
nation  from  their  having  a  long  time  iidiabited  tho  Sault  Ste. 
INfario,  is  not  a  translation  of  tho  savage  name  Odjibwek. 
This  word  has  been  the  object  of  a  great  many  HUjipositions: 
some  say  it  was  given  to  this  nation  on  account  of  the  form  of 
their  plaited  shoes  —  tcihtca,  plaited;  but  this  interpretation  is 
not  admissible,  for  tho  word  does  not  contain  the  least  allusion 
to  shoes.  Others  say  that  it  comes  from  the  form  the  mouth 
assumes  in  pronouncing  certain  words,  wishing  always  to 
hold  on  to  the  adjective  tcibwa ;  this  is  not  more  satisfac- 
tory. It  is  not  uncommon  that  a  word  is  somewhat  changed 
when  applied  to  a  man  or  a  nation.  I  coidd  give  a  number  of 
examples  of  this.  I  would  venture  then  to  say  that  the  word 
Odjibwek  comes  from  Shibwe  ;  in  order  to  make  a  proper  noun 
Oshibwek,  in  the  plural  the  pronouncing  slowly  of  shih — root, 
to  draw  out ;  that  is  to  say,  to  lengthen  out  a  word  by  the 
slow  pronunciation  of  its  syllables;  the  particle  we  signifying 
articulate,  pronounce  ;  the  k  is  an  animated  plural,  which  hero 
can  only  be  applied  to  men.  In  truth,  the  pronunciation  of 
the  Sauteux  charactcrijccs  them  in  an  eminent  manner.  Tho 
Ottawas,  the  Nipising,  the  Algoufpiins,  tho  Tefca  de  Boulc,  tho 
Montagues  of  Canada,  are  so  many  tribes  Avhich  belong  to  the 
same  fauiily.  We  must  not  confouiul  the  ]\Iontagnes  of  Cana- 
da with  those  of  the  north,  who  have  nothing  in  common 
except  the  name.  The  Sauteux  and  the  Crces  have  always 
been  intimately  united ;  and  they  have  the  same  usages  and 
the  same  superstitions,  to  which  they  are  extremely  attached. 

Their  principal  religious  meeting  takes  place  every  spring, 
about  the  time  wdien  all  the  plants  begin  to  awaken  from  their 
long  winter  sleep  and  renew  their  life,  and  commence  to  bud. 
The  ticket  of  invitation  is  a  piece  of  tobacco  sent  by  the  oldest 
person  of  the  nation,  indicating  the  place  of  rendezvous  to  the 
principal   persons   of  the  tri))e.     This  is  a  national  feast,  in 


»     a] 


'mm 


I{   i 


350 


AIM'KNDIX. 


mi 


which  cnch  iiulividunl  in  iiitn-cstod,  hpin-  the  ivnst  nf  modi- 
diues.  Ench  hoad  of  a  lamily  is  tho  physician  of  Ids  idiihlrcn, 
hut  he  can  not  hccomc  so  without  havinj^;"  a  i.ndiniinarv  instruc- 
tion and  initiation  into  fho  secrets  of  medicine.  Jt  is  at  this 
feast  that  each  one  is  received.  All  the  ceremonies  which 
they  perform  arc  end)lematic,  and  sij^niify  the  virtue  of  plants 
in  tlio  euro  of  tho  various  maladies  of  i».;wi. 

Another  superstition,  proper  1.,  cure  the  evils  wliich  have 
place  more  in  the  imagination  than  in  the  hod  v.  is  the  Nipik- 
kiwau.  It  consists  in  drawing  out  the  evil  directly,  in  drawin- 
tho  hreath,  and  s],itting  in  tho  eys  ..f  the  sick  person.  The 
protended  cause  of  the  sulfering  is  sometimes  a  st.me.  a  fruiS 
tho  point  of  an  arrow,  or  even  a  medicnu.,  wrapped  up  in  cot- 
ton. One  can  not  conceive  how  nn.ch  these  poor  people  std)- 
niit  with  blind  faith  to  these  absurdities. 

Lastly,  curiosity,  and  tho  desire  of  knowing  the  future   has 
invented  tho  Teisakkiu  in.     It  consists  of  certain  formalities, 
songs,  nivocations  of  spirits,  and  bodily  agitations,  which  are 
80  cnorgotic,  that  you  are  carried  back  to  the  time  of  the  an- 
cient sybils;    they  seem  to  say  to  you,  Vc.s  eccc  Deu.s,  and 
then  submitting  to  the  questions  of  the  spectators,  for  whom 
they  always  have  a  reply,  whether  it  be  to  toll  what  passes  at 
a  distance,  or  reveal  tho  place  where  olyects  which  have  been 
lost  maybo  found.     As  the  skill  of  the  prophet  consists  in 
replying  in  ambiguous  terms  npon  all  subjects  of  which  ho  has 
not  boon  able  to  procure  information  in  advance,  he  is  always 
sure  of  success,  either  more  or  less  striking.     Besides,  as  one 
IS  ordinarily  predisposed  to  the  marvellous,  anything  that  aids 
an  imposture  is  easily  overlooked. 

I  knew  a  man  who  was  in  great  trouble  on  account  of  his 
horses,  which  he  could  not  find  just  at  the  moment  when  all 
the  hunters  were  about  to  go  upon  an  expedition.  Seeing  he 
could  not  accompany  them  without  his  horses,  ho  used  every 
effort  to  find  them.  At  last  an  old  Sautcux  came  to  him  and 
proposed  If  he  would  give  him  a  net  (a  net  used  to  catch  fish) 
he  would  go  immediately  and  invoke  his  manitous ;  ami  he 
was  very  sure  they  would  give  him  tho  desired  information! 
As  one  can  readily  suppose,  the  offer  was  accepted  ;  and  after 


rUINCK    UL'PKKTH    LAND. 


351 


(»r  iiumIi- 

c'liildrcii, 
y  iiistruc- 
s  r.t  this 
I'H  Aviiicli 
"f"  l»l.'mts 

ith  liavo 

0  Nljiik- 

ni.  TU^^ 
,  a  fn ii<^, 
p  in  cot- 

»l>lo  HIll). 

Jurc,  Iina 
nialitics, 
liicli  nro 
the  aii- 
e».s',  and 
r  Avlioni 
asses  at 
ve  been 
isists  in 

1  lie  lias 
ahvajs 

,  as  one 
lat  aitls 

t  of  liis 
lien  all 
'ing  lie 
every 
ini  and 
^h  fish) 
md  lie 
nation, 
d  after 


i 


llie  ordinary  formalities,  the  juf^^^ler  said  lie  saw  tlio  nunilier 
>f  ilio  horses,  and  descvilied  them  otherwise  failhfnily,  naminj^ 
also  exactly  the  place  v  hero  they  c(Mdd  ho  found.  They  were 
in  edect  found  U\  tl»f  jdace  he  had  indicated.  Now  this  old 
man  h-id  hiuu;.  li'  !iii"  the  horses,  in  order  to  ohtain  from  the 
(»wner,  the  n'lt  y,*\'.'!.  i.t.  knew  ho  possessed;  and  which  he 
himself  necdi  I.  '  "onld  cite  many  other  instances  of  the  same 
kind. 

Dreams  are  for  tho  Sauteux  revelations ;  and  the  hird,  tho 
animal,  or  even  a  stone,  (»r  whatever  it  may  ho  which  is  the 
l)rincipal  subject  of  tho  dream,  hecomes  a  tutelary  spirit,  for 
Avhich  the  dreamer  has  a  particular  veneration.  As  dreams 
arci  more  apt  to  visit  a  sick  jierson,  when  the  hrain  is  more 
subject  to  these  aberrations,  many  such  have  a  number  of 
dreams,  and  conse(piently  many  tutelary  spirits.  They  pre- 
serve images,  and  statues  in  their  medicine-bag,  and  never 
lose  sight  of  them ;  but  carry  them  about  wherever  they  go. 
The  faith  of  tho  Sauteux  in  their  medicine  is  such,  that  they 
b(dieve  a  disease  can  be  thrown  into  an  absent  person,  or  that 
certain  medicines  can  master  the  mental  inclinations,  such  as 
lovo  or  hatred.  'J'hus  it  is  the  interest  of  these  old  men  to 
pander  to  tho  young.  It  can  not  ha  denied  that  the  Hauteux 
have  some  knowledge  of  medicine.  And  .  have  myself  wit- 
nessed several  cures,  which  did  honor  to  their  physician.  I 
have,  above  all,  I'ollowed  Avith  great  interest  the  progress  of  a 
euro  which  an  English  doctor  had  pronounced  incurable, 
nevertheless  the  Sauteux  doctor  proiunmccd  its  euro  very 
easy ;  which  iiideed  he  effected  in  a  very  short  time.  'J'ho 
disease  was  erysipelas,  degenerated  into  nlccrs. 

Tho  Sauteux  language  is  much  richer  than  is  commonly 
thought.  It  bears  a  great  resemblance  to  the  ancient  lan- 
guages. It  has,  like  the  Greek,  tho  dual  and  tho  two  futures. 
And,  like  that  language,  it  has  but  few  radical  words,  but 
llieir  manner  of  forming  words  for  the  occasion  by  the  aid 
"t  these  radicals,  gives  a  great  facility  of  expression,  the  same 
!is  in  tiic  Greek.  The  conjunction  "  and,"  either  by  lia/ard  or 
otherwise,  is  the  same  as  in  the  Greek,  'i'his  iaii',;uage  is 
formed  of  radical  and  compound  words.     The   radical  words 


35ii 


AITKNDIX. 


are  commonly  employed  in  tlie  famiUnr  style  ;  but  in  ovntovioal 
style,  the  comj)oun(l  words  are  iiKed.  As  for  example,  ishpa, 
wailjin,'n\  componnd  siylo  is  /.s77>«/'/?«,  tlie  monntain  isliigli; 
maugdciia  ,sipa,  the  riv.-r  is  lar;j:e,  in  tlie  compound  style  is 
viavgUl'igu-i'iia,  &c.  This  makes  the  learning  of  the  language 
rather  ilidicult  at  first,  nearly  e((ual  to  the  acquiring  of  two 
languages;  but  in  return  for  this,  one  accjuires  an  extreme 
facility  i-.  expressing  his  thoughts  with  all  the  force  he  desires. 

Tlie  Sauteuic  have  also  their  poetic  style,  which  consists 
more  in  suspension  and  enigmatical  phrases  than  in  words. 
Their  songs  contain  only  a  hwY  Avords,  with  a  great  many 
notes.  Their  music  is  very  strange,  and  consists  more  in 
guttural  sounds  than  in  modulations.  Their  intervals  are 
generally  de  iivrcc  m  liercc,  accompanied  by  a  great  many 
unisons.     They  iiave  songs  of  war,  of  love,  and  of  worship. 

Their  writings  are  composed  of  arbitrary  hieroglyphics,  and 
the  best  Avrilcr  is  he,  who  is  most  skilful  in  using  such  signs  as 
most  fully  represent  his  thoughts.  Though  this  manlier  of 
writing  is  very  defective,  it  is  nevertheless  ingenious  and  very 
useful,  and  has  this  advantage  over  all  other  languages,  since 
it  paint  the  thoughts,  and  not  the  words.  For  it  remains  for 
genius  to  discover  the  means  of  writing  the  thought,  and  not 
the  word  ;  just  as  figures  represent  nximbers  in  all  languages. 
Though  the  Saut^ax  have  no  idea  of  the  state  they  shall  find 
themselves  in  after  death,  they  believe  in  the  existciuce  of  a 
future  life.  They  have  very  strange  ideas  on  this  subject ; 
in  consequence  of  some  of  these,  they  place  near  the  deceased 
his  arms  and  the  articles  most  necessary  to  life.  Some  have 
even  gone  so  far  as  to  have  their  best  horse  killed  at  their 
death,  in  order,  as  they  said,  to  use  him  in  travelling  to  tlte 
country  of  the  dead.  It  is  th^  general  belief  that  the  spirit 
returns  to  visit  the  gr..ve  of  the  deceased  very  often,  so  long 
as  the  body  is  not  reduced  to  dust.  During  this  space  of  time 
it  is  held  a  sacred  duty,  on  the  j)art  of  the  relatives  of  the 
deceased,  to  make  sacrifices  and  offerings,  and  celebrate  fes- 
tivals before  the  door  of  the  tomb.  In  the  time  of  fruits,  they 
carry  thera  m  great  abundance  to  the  tomb,  and  he  who 
nourishes  himself  with  {hem  after  they  have  been  deposited 


riilNCK    Kd'EKTS    LAND. 


353 


tlicrc,  causes  },nTJit  joy  to  tlio  parents  aiul  relations  of  tlie 
deceased.  Alllumoh  1  liave  seen  an  old  man  who  believed  in 
nietempsycliosis,  it  is  not  a  belief  of  the  nation  ;  he  prol)ably 
received  this  thouf^ht  elsewhere. 

The  Sauteux  have  also  some  knowledge  of  astronomy  ; 
they  have  names  for  the  most  remarkable  constoUations  ;  they 
have  names,  also,  for  the  lunar  months  ;  but  their  calculations, 
as  can  bo  conceived,  are  very  imperfect,  and  they  often  find 
themselves  in  great  embarrassment,  and  have  recourse  to  us 
to  solve  their  difficulties.  The  electric  fhiid  manifested  in 
thunder,  the  rays  of  light  of  the  aurora  borealis,  are  in  their 
imajrination  animated  beings  ;  the  thunders,  according  to  them, 
;\vi\  sujiernatnral  beings  ;  and  the  rays  of  the  aurora  borealis 
are  the  dead  who  dance. 

Their  idea  of  the  creation  of  the  world  goes  no  farther  back 
than  the  deluge,  of  which  they  liave  still  a  tradition,  the  nar- 
ration of  which  Avould  fill  volumes.  This  account  is  extremely 
amusing,  and  filled  with  wearisome  episodes.  Without  at- 
teiiii)ting  to  narrate  the  whole  of  it  here,  I  will  tell  that  part 
-which  relates  to  the  creation  :  "An  immortal  genius,  seeing 
the  Avater  which  cov-ered  the  earth,  and  finding  nowhere  a 
resting-place  for  his  feet,  ordered  a  castor,  an  otter,  and  other 
amphibious  animals,  to  plunge  by  turns  into  the  Avater,  and 
bring  up  a  little  earth  to  the  surface.  They  Avere  all 
droAvned.  The  rat,  hoAvever,  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
bottom,  and  took  some  earth  in  his  paAvs,  but  he  died  before 
ho  got  back;  yet  h>'s  body  rose  to  the  surface  of  the  Avater. 
The  genius,  Nenabojou,  seeing  that  he  had  found  earth, 
brought  him  to  life,  and  employed  him  to  continue  the  Avork. 
When  there  was  a  sufficient  quantity  of  earth,  he  made  a  man, 
Avhom  he  animated  Avith  his  breath."  This  genius  is  not  the 
Great  Spirit,  of  Avhom  they  never  speak  except  with  respect ; 
Avhile  Nenabojou  is  considered  a  buffoon  of  no  gravity. 

This  account  contains  one  thing  very  important.  It  is  that 
in  speaking  of  the  creation  of  plants,  &c.,  it  speaks  of  thelf 
nutritive  properties  ;  and  thus  offers  a  resource  for  the  suste- 
nance of  life  in  times  of  scarcity  ;  shoAving  Avhat  roots,  plants, 
and  mosses,  can  to  a  certain  extent  preserve  life.     Improvi- 


854: 


Al'I'KNDIX. 


(lent,  not  to  say  moro  of  tlicni.  like  all  sa,vago  nations,  the 
Snntonx  pass  rapidly  from  abundaiice  to  want. 

'^I'licrc.  }:;r()Avs  in  tlio  ])rair.es  a  kind  of  tin-nip,  wliicli  can 
appease  Innif^er.  Wlieii  this  root  is  clio])pcd  np,  dried,  and 
beaten,  tlic  Sautenx  make  a  soup  of  it,  wliicli,  -when  mixed 
Avitli  a  little  meat,  becomes  very  nourisbinp;;  and  tlins,  tbe 
food  wbicb  would  scarcely  have  sufficed  a  single  day,  is  made 
to  last  several  days.  There  is  also  a  wild  onion,  of  which  they 
make  much  use.  The  ginger  which  grows  in  the  woods,  is 
emjdoyed  as  p(>])j)er  in  their  repasts.  In  the  spring,  tliey  iind 
a  kind  of  root,  the  shape  of  which  resembles  a  ligne,  vulgarly 
called  a  raf\i  taU.  It  is  very  abundant,  of  a  good  flavor,  and 
very  nutritive.  Another  root,  named  ushhthwah  —  that  which 
is  eaten  raw — is  very  abundant,  and  contains  much  nutritive 
substance.  The  fibres  of  the  trees,  above  all  of  the  as])en, 
are  used  by  them  in  time  of  scarcity;  also  a  kind  of  bush  or 
shrub  which  is  found  in  the*  woods,  called  7>/wa///Z:. 

In  the  rocky  countries,  there  exists  a  kind  of  moss  very  well 
known  to  travellers,  of  which  the  utility  has  been  appreciated 
iu  more  than  one  adventurous  circumstance.  It  is  the  famous 
h-'ij)c  (le  rochc.  This  moss  is  of  the  nature  of  the  mushroom. 
As  there  are  some  mushrooms  Avhich  are  real  poisons,  so  there 
is  a  kind  of  (ripe  dc  rocJte  which,  far  from  nourishing,  produces 
death.  That  Avhich  is  green,  and  has  small,  round  leaves,  is 
the  most  nourishing,  and  most  easily  digested.  With  this, 
and  a  duck,  a  partridge,  or  a  fish,  one  can  make  a  succulent 
soup  sufficient  to  nourish  several  men. 

The  Sauteux  have  a  great  passion  for  gaming.  They  pass 
whole  days  and  nights  in  play;  staking  all  they  have,  even 
their  guns  and  traps,  and  sometimes  their  horses.  It  has 
happened  that,  having  nothing  more,  they  have  staked  even 
their  wives  upon  the  play. 

Their  love  of  intoxicating  liquors  is,  as  among  all  the 
other  savage  tribes,  invincible.  A  Sauteux,  who  was  convinced 
of  religion,  wished  to  become  a  Christian ;  but  he  could  not  bo 
admitted  without  renouncing  indulgence  in  drunkenness  to 
excet. .  He  complained  bitterly,  that  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany had   reduced  his  pconlc  to   such  a  pitiable  state,  by 


naNUJi  KurEET  s  land. 


355 


bringing  mm  into  the  country,  of  whicli  they  would  never 
have  thought  if  they  had  not  tasted  it.  Tlie  Sauteux  are  one 
of  the  most  Avarlike  of  nations.  From  time  immemorial,  they 
have  had  the  advantage  over  tlicir  numerous  enemies,  and 
pushed  them  to  the  north  They  treat  the  vanquished  with 
the  most  horrible  harharity  It  is  then  that  they  are  cannibals 
by  virtue ;  for  though  we  see  sometimes  among  them  cases 
(tf  anthropopliagy,  they  have  such  a  horror  of  it,  that  he  who 
has  committed  this  act  is  no  longer  sure  of  his  life.  Tliey 
liobl  it  a  sacred  duty  to  put  him  to  death  on  the  first  favoralde 
occasion.  But  during  war  they  make  a  glory  of  cannibalism. 
The  feast  of  victory  is  very  often  composed  of  human  flesh. 
One  sees  a  trait  of  this  barbarity  in  the  names  they  give  to 
their  principal  enemies  ;  as,  for  instance,  the  Sioux,  whom 
they  call  WanaJc.  As  I  have  remarked  before,  it  is  not  rare 
that  they  add  to  or  retrench  a  little  their  proper  names,  wli'ch 
renders  their  interpretation  rather  difficult  for  strangers.  In 
the  word  I  have  mentioned,  Iwan  is  put  for  ohwan,  Avhich  sig- 
nilies  a  piece  of  flesh  put  on  the  spit ;  thus  the  word  ahicavak, 
which  they  have  finished  by  calling  hwahak  ox  j'wanak,  signi- 
fying those  whom  one  roasts  on  a  spit.  In  their  great  war 
parties,  after  the  victory,  the  Sauteux  build  a  great  fire,  then 
jdant  all  around  spits  laden  with  the  thighs,  heads,  and  hearts, 
&c.,  of  their  enemies,  after  which  they  return  home. 

4.  The  Sioux,  to  whom  we  must  join  the  Assiniboins,  in- 
habit a  portion  of  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  bay,  viz. :  the 
upper  part  of  the  Red  river,  and  the  river  Ohayenne,  which 
is  tributary  to  it.  But  xx\u^^y  endeavors  have  been  made  to 
conclude  a  solid  peace  with  the  Sioux  ;  and  though  each  time 
has  been  witli  the  appearance  of  success,  their  acts  of  treason 
liave  always  dc'royed  these  bright  hopes.  The  Sauteux 
complain  bittoviy  of  their  want  of  faith. 

Tlu  nation  of  the  Assii.«iboins,  who  separated  tlunujelvos 
frc(U  tre  Sioux,  ac^'ording  to  tradition,  on  account  of  family 
dispn:  ^,  look  its  name  from  the  rocks  of  the  lakr-  of  the  Woods, 
where  tb.?y  first  lucd  after  their  separation.  Their  name 
comes  fVoiii  as.' hi,  rock,  and  hican,  Sioux  —  ISioux  of  the  Rocks. 
It  is  impossible  to  tix  the  date  of  tliis  separation;  for  'i'   *he 


35G 


APrENDIX. 


\  !l 


li 


•    ! 


l:-r 


nrriva]  of  tliG  first  missionaries  to  Hudson's  Lay,  Fntlier  Ga- 
lu'iel  Mnre.st,  in  1091,  wrote,  speaking  of  the  Assiniboins, 
Avlioni  he  called  Ass}nij)oUs,  that  this  tradition  was  regarded 
as  being  already  very  ohl. 

The  Assiniboins  are  numerous,  and  from  tlieir  habit  of 
living  in  large  encampments,  are  formidable  to  their  enemies. 
This  tribe,  like  the  Sauteux  and  the  Crees,  their  allies,  are 
not  hostile  to  the  whites.  A  traAeller  can  pass  through  this 
nation  with  more  security  for  his  life  than  in  a  civilized  coun- 
try, which  can  not  bo  said  of  the  Sioux.  One  can  not  travel 
upon  the  highlands  of  the  Missouri  and  Ilcd  rivers,  Avithout 
often  being  seized  with  horror  by  the  narrations  occasioned  by 
tlie  view  of  places  and  scenes  of  a  crowd  of  acts  of  barbarity 
and  treason,  that  have  been  perpetrated  by  this  pcoj)le,  of 
which  one  sees  in  history  but  an  example  from  time  to  time. 
It  is  a  horrible  sight  to  see,  as  I  have  seen  i)i  different  ])lacos, 
the  skeletons  of  human  beings,  confounded  in  a  heap  with  the 
bones  of  savage  animals.  Without  these  imminent  dangers, 
which  such  sights  recall  to  the  mind  of  the  traveller,  these 
prairies  would  appear  a  paradise.  Filled  with  game  of  all 
kinds,  they  offer  at  each  moment  a  new  point  of  view,  and  a 
variety  of  perspective  most  astonishing  —  lakes,  where  the 
herds  of  bison  come  to  slake  their  thirst,  and  where  the  majes- 
tic swan  and  the  wild  goose  repose  themselves  m  passing — 
the  limpid  streams,  where  the  beavers  expose  their  ingenious 
work  to  the  admiring  gaze  —  petrifactions,  mineral  waters  of 
various  kinds,  flowers,  and  strange  plants,  all  unite  to  amuse 
and  interest  the  intelligent  traveller  in  search  of  the  useful 
and  the  agreeable. 

The  nature  of  the  territory  separated  from  that  of  the 
United  States  by  the  49th  degree  of  latitude,  is  such,  that  it 
seems  necessary  that  one  should  have  first  visited  the  country 
before  determining  the  line  and  making  a  choice.  With  the 
exception  of  a  straight  strip  of  land,  say  a  degree  parallel  to' 
the  49th  degree  of  latitude,  all  the  rest  of  the  country  of  the 
bay  of  Hudson  is  filled  with  lakes,  marshes,  savannas,  and 
rocks.  Except  a  small  portion,  on  Avhich  is  established  the 
colony  of  Selkirk,  there  is  not  a  spot  of  land  that  will  produce 


I'lJiNci'.  kui'ekt's  land. 


357 


corn.  One  can  Imrdly  imagine  the  sad  eventualities  to  which 
the  people  of  this  countiy  are  subjected,  who  can  never  count 
on  the  resources  of  agriculture,  heing  six  Imndred  miles  from 
a^y  point  where  they  can  obtain  supplies.  It  is  thus  that  the 
people  north  of  Haskadjiwan  are  exposed  from  time  *i  time,  to 
the  terrible  alternative  of  dying  of  hunger  or  of  eating  one 
another,  when  in  the  interval  that  the  fisheries  fail,  it  happens 
that  the  chase  fails  also. 

It  is  for  this  reason  that  our  neighbors  of  the  colony  of  Sel- 
kirk view  with  envious  eyes  tlie  beautiful  territory  which  ex- 
tends south  of  the  forty-ninth  degree,  from  llainy  lake  to  th 
Rocky  mountains.     The  left  bank  of  the  river  of  llainy  la' 
for  the  space  of  about  eighty  miles,  is  covered  with  all  kin... 
of  Avood,  of  which  the  extreme  height  indicates  the  fertility 
of  the  soil.     The  country  Avhich  belongs  to  the  United  States, 
is  filled  Avith  advantages  in  respect  to  water-poAvcr.     It  is  on 
account  of  the  inferiority  of  the  advantages  of  their  territory, 
that  our  neighbors  feel  a  strong  opposition  to  our  establish- 
ment. 

At  the  foot  of  the  beautiful  mountain  of  Pembina,  Avhich  is 
more  than  tAvo  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  riA'er  Pem- 
bina Avhich  divides  it,  and  on  its  first  table  rises  the  little 
village  of  St.  Joseph.  It  is  divided  by  squares  of  tAvelvo 
chains,  and  subdivided  by  lots  of  six  chains.  Its  streets  are 
one  chain  (sixty-six  feet)  Avide,  Avhich  adds  to  the  beauty  of 
the  town,  rendering  the  extinction  of  fire  easier  and  favoring 
the  free  circulation  of  air  and  the  health  of  the  citizens. 
Everything  Avears  an  air  of  vigor  in  spite  of  the  little  protec- 
tion they  have  thus  far  received  from  the  general  government. 
The  least  effective  step,  such  as  a  garrison  of  soldiers,  hoAvever 
feeble  it  might  be,  the  construction  of  a  public  edifice,  a  court 
of  justice,  a  prison,  a  house  of  correction,  or  anything  that 
Avould  prove  the  indubitable  intention  of  government  to  protect 
us,  Avould  uvhw  to  this  place  a  great  portion  of  the  population 
of  Selkirk  and  elseAvhere.  The  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  the 
frostK  never  occasion  any  damage.  Our  gardens  yield  us  an 
abundance  of  melons  of  all  kinds;  a  fruit  Avhich  is  not  knoAvn 
in  the  gardens  of  the  Selkirkers.     In  ISfy],  the  first  frost  felt 


■<«i. 


I 


358 


AI'PKNIJIX. 


at  St.  Paul  was  on  the  Gtli  or  7tli  of  Soptcinbor ;  while  at  St. 
Jiisepli  the  first  fro.st  was  not  until  the  2(1  or  3(1  of  October. 
They  raise  potatoes  which  Aveigh  about  two  pounds  each,  aiu] 
carrots  eighteen  inches  long  and  four  in  diameter.  If  th*e 
country  were  cx^jlored  it  would  show,  without  doubt,  great 
niineralogical  advantages.  At  a  short  distance  from  our 
establishment,  there  arc  certain  indications  of  iron  and  coal  — 
these  two  articles  are  the  most  important  for  this  country, 
'i'iie  river  Pembina  furnishes  water-power  for  any  force  re- 
(Uiired  ;  there  is  also  stone  in  abundance  and  very  easily  ob- 
tained. 


n    ; 


THE    MOUNDS    OF    THE    MINNESOTA    VALLEY. 

The  Hev.  S.  II.  Riggs,  of  the  Lac-qui-Parlc  mission,  gives 
the  following  interesting  account  of  the  mounds  of  the  Min- 
nesota valley :  — 

In  the  I\[innesota  valley  mounds  are  numerous.  They  may 
properly  be  divided  into  :  —  First,  natural  elevations,  pahas,  or 
pazhodans,  as  the  Dakotas  call  them  ;  second,  such  as  are 
partly  natural  and  partly  artificial;  and  third,  elevations  which 
have  been  formed  by  certain  processes.  Pahas,  or  pazhodans, 
arc  found  scattered  over  the  prairies,  some  of  the  more  prom- 
inent of  which  may  be  seen  from  a  great  distance.  Such  is 
Iloyokatee,  the  liousc  of  Hey  oka,*  situated  near  the  Maya- 
wakan  or  Chippewa  river,  some  ten  miles  or  more  above  its 
junction  with  the  Minnesota.  This  natural  elevation  appears 
at  some  distance  to  the  right  of  the  road,  as  one  comes  from 
r>lack-oak   lake  to   Lac-qui-Parle.      But  even  this  is  hardly 

*  Hkyoka  is  the  anti-natural  god  of  the  Dakotas  —  represented  by  an  old 
Tiiiin  wearing  a  cocked  hat,  with  a  quiver  on  his  back,  and  a  bow  in  his 
liand.  In  tlie  winter,  it  is  saiil,  he  goes  naked,  and  loves  the  northern 
blasts;  while  in  summer  he  wraps  his  buffalo-robe  around  hira,  and  is  still 
sulForinEC  from  cold. 


MOUNDS   OF   THE   MINNESOTA    V  A  LUCY, 


359 


to  be  compared  witli  tlie  "  paliawakaii,"  or  .sarrrd  JiilJs,  in  the 
valley  of  the  James  river,  which  are  more  than  one  hiiinlred 
feet  higli,  aiul  can  be  distinctly  seen  from  the  farther  border 
of  the  Cotean  dcs  Prairies,  a  distance  of  about  forty  mih's. 
In  passing  from  one  point  to  another  on  the  prairie,  i\\Q.  jxihas 
are  very  serviceable  as  guides  to  the  traveller. 

These  natural  elevations,  where  they  are  found  near  Indian 
villages,  have  been  used  as  burial-places.  Among  the  l)a- 
kotas,  the  native  way  of  disposing  of  the  dead  is  that  of 
pl.acing  them  on  scaft'olds.  A  j^aha,  or  conspicuous  jioint,  is 
preferred  as  the  place  of  erecting  such  scafibld,  that  it  may  bo 
seen  from  a  distance.  At  the  present  time,  burial  soon  after 
death  is  practised  to  a  considerable  extent  by  the  Dakotas  of 
the  ]\Iinnesota  valley,  including  those  still  on  the  Mississijjpi ; 
and  where  they  still  prefer  to  place  upon  scaflF(dds  at  iirst, 
they  not  unfrequcntly  bury  in  the  course  of  a  few  months. 
But  their  graves  are  so  shallow  that,  to  cover  the  dead  sufli- 
ciently,  they  arc  often  obliged  to  carry  up  earth  ;  and  it  is 
probable  that  formerly  they  carried  up  more  than  they  do  at 
present.  To  prevent  the  body  from  being  dug  up  by  Avolves, 
they  generally  enclose  the  grave  by  setting  up  around,  in  a 
cone-like  form,  billets  of  wood.  The  decomposition  of  the 
bodies,  and  the  rotting  of  the  palisades  and  scaflFolds,  enrich 
the  ground,  and  cause  a  more  luxuriant  growtli  of  vegetation, 
which,  of  itself,  directly  tends  to  add  to  the  size  of  the  mound. 
Then  this  rank  vegetation  forms  a  nucleus  for  drift.  Then  the 
grass  and  dust  whicb  the  wind  blows  over  the  prairie,  lodge, 
and  make  the  elevation  still  greater.  On  the  hill,  a  short  dis- 
tance east  of  the  ruins  of  Fort  Renville,  to  the  northwest  and  in 
sight  of  the  mission-bouses  at  Lac-qui-Parle,  there  is  a  ^w/'a 
of  this  kind,  in  which,  in  years  gone  by,  many  persons  have 
been  buried.  It  now  presents  on  the  top  a  very  irre"-ular 
surface,  partly  owing  to  the  interments  thus  made,  and  partly 
to  the  burrowing  of  the  gophers  in  it.  Oix  the  southv/est  side 
of  the  Minnesota,  a  short  distance  back  of  the  Wahpetoiiw  an 
village,  there  is  another  mound,  which  has  been  long  used  as 
a  burying-place.  Similar  ones  may  be  found  near  all  Dakota 
viliages. 


300 


APPENDIX. 


i  I  I 


J' 


i  I 

lif      i    I 


i  1 


i    III 


If  the  question  be  asked,  Wliy  do  the  Dakotas  prefer  these 
mounds  as  the  phieesof  deposite  for  their  dead  1  1  answer  :  — 
First,  as  before  suggested,  tliat  the  phnce  may  he  seen  from  u 
distance  all  around.  As  they  wail  morning  and  evening,  they 
can  conveniently  look  to  the  abode,  not  only  of  the  body  of 
their  departed  friend,  but,  as  many  of  them  believe,  of  one 
of  the  spirits  also.  Secondly,  all  ^Wm.?  are  under  the  guard- 
ianship of  their  god  Heyoka.  And  thirdly,  a  hill  may  be 
regarded  as  a  more  congenial  place  of  rest  for  a  spirit  than  a 
valley  ;  and  thence,  too,  the  earthly  spirit  may  the  better 
hold  communion  with  the  one  which  has  gone  to  the  east  along 
the  "iron  road,"  or  is  above,  making  progress  on  the  "  wanagi 
tachanku"  (the  via  lactia),  or  sjiirit's  road. 

Tlie  third  species  of  elevations  which  I  shall  notice,  have 
the  form  of  embankments  rather  than  mounds.  They  are 
artificial,  found  usually  in  the  river  bottoms  or  low  planting 
lands,  and  formed  by  carrying  out,  spring  after  spring,  the 
corn-roots  and  other  trash  from  oif  the  field,  and  piling  them 
along  the  outer  edge,  or  on  the  row  between  two  fields.  In 
many  instances  of  patches  that  had  been  planted  for  ten  or 
twenty  years  previous  to  the  introduction  of  the  plough,  I 
have  seen  these  embankments  from  two  to  three  feet  high,  and 
of  all  conceivable  shapes  ;  some  rhomboidal,  some  hexagonal, 
some  oval.  I  remember  having  noticed  them  first,  many  years 
ago,  in  the  old  plantings  at  Little  Six's  village,  where  I  pre- 
sume they  may  still  bo  traced,  as  I  am  not  aware  that  those 
old  fields  (which  were  on  tlie  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and 
about  two  miles  below  the  site  of  the  jn-esent  village),  have 
ever  been  ploughed.  The  thought  has  occurred  to  mo  that, 
perhaps  some  of  what  have  been  regarded  as  Indian  fortifi- 
cations  in   other  parts  of   the   country,  may  have  a  similar 


origui. 


In  connection  with  these  remarks  on  mounds,  it  is  proper 
to  give  some  descrij)tion  of  a  very  interesting  excavation  and 
fortilicntion,  which  is  found  a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
l'a-z!i(vliu-ta-ze  or  Yellow  Medicine  river.  It  is  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Minnesota,  and  within  sight  of  tlie  mission-station 
lately  connnonced  by  Dr.  "Williamson.    I  visited  ihh  memorial 


>loL'\l»S    Ml.-    ifi|.;    %riN.VIS  il'V    \   \r,|.i.;\-. 


301 


of  anotlicr  race.     'Hw  cxcavjifion  extcinls  around  llivoc  sides 
of  a  soinewliat  irrooi,l;,r  s(iiiaie,  the  fourth  being  protectod  by 
the  slope  of  the  hill,  which  is  now  covered  with  timber.    After 
the  filling-up  of  years,  or  perhaps  centuries,  the  ditch  is  still 
about  three  feet  deep.     We  found  the  east  side,  in  the  middle 
of  the  ditch,  to  measure   thirty-eight  paces;  the  south  side, 
sixty-two  ;  and  the  west  side,  fifty.     The  north  side  is  consi.I- 
erably  longer  than  the-south.    The  area  enclosed  is  not  far  from 
half  an  acre.     On  each  of  tho.three  excavated  sides  there  was 
left  a  gateway  of  about  two  paces.     The  earth  was  evidently 
thrown  up  on   both  sides  ;   but   the  embankments    have  now 
almost  entirely  disappeared  iu  the  level  of  the  prairie.     With- 
in the   enclosure   there   are  numerous  very  slight  elevations, 
which  seem  to  mark  the  places  occupied  by  the  dwellings  of 
those  who  were  once  entrenched  here.     It  would  be  interesting 
to  know  what  were  the  form  and  character  of  these  houses; 
but  all  we  can  learn  from  the  present  appearance  of  things  is! 
that  they  were  probably  partly  made  of  earth. 

This  is  by  far  the  largest  and  most  interesting  fortification 
that  I  have  seen  in  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota.  How  long 
ago  was  this  ditch  dug,  and  by  whom  ?  It  evidently  bears  the 
marks  of  some  antiquity ;  and  it  was  not  probably  made  by 
the  Dakotas,  as  it  must  date  many  years  beyond  th'^ir  occu- 
pancy of  this  country.  Some  band  of  Indians,  perhaps  a 
little  in  advance  of  the  Dakotas  in  civilization,  here  entrenched 
themselves  against  the  attacks  of  their  enemies.  As  we  stood 
within  the  enclosure,  and  contemplated-  the  work,  we  natu- 
rally asked  the  question,  Who  did  this?  And  from  the  deep 
silence  of  antiquity  the  only  answer  we  received  was,  Wao  ? 

16 


¥■ 


i^:m 


863 


AlTKNl^lX. 


l! 


nil".  r.MriiuN  law. 

AVo  give  boliiw  tl>o  ]uiinfs  whirh  i>orsinis  wishliitr  to  mal<fl  pro- 
oniptiona  in  tl\o  Trrritory  of  Mimu-Motn,  aiv  ivqiiiivd  to  make  out 
to  the  satist'ai'tion  of  the  olVu'ors  at  tlio  diiViMvnt  Land  Ollicis,  iu 
onlcr  to  inv-i'uipt : 

1.  Tlio  settlor  must  never  before  have  hud  tlio  benefit  of  pro- 
emption  under  the  net. 

2.  Ho  must  not  at  the  time  of  malvini!;  tbe  pre-emption,  bo  tli(» 
owner  of  ',V2()  acres  of  land  in  any  iState  or  Territory  of  the  llniled 
States. 

:}.  lie  must  settle  upon  and  improve  the  land  in  <;ood  faith  for 
bis  own  exclusive  use  or  benefit,  and  not  with  the  intention  of  si'liing 
it  on  speculation,  and  must  not  malce,  directly  or  indirectly,  any 
contract  or  agreement  in  any  way  or  manner  with  any  person  or 
persons,  by  which  the  title  whicli  he  may  acciuiir  from  tlie  I'niU'd 
States  should  enure,  in  whole  or  in  part,  t^)  the  hcnelit  of  any  pi  rson 
except  hiniself. 

4.  He  nuist  be  twenty-(Mie  yeiirs  of  :i_l;;o  and  a  ei(i/.cii  of  the 
United  States;  or  if  a  foreigni>r,  must  have  declared  his  intention  to 
become  a  citizen  before  the  proper  authority  and  reccive<l  a  «'erliiicato 
to  that  eiVect. 

5.  Ho  must  build  a  house  on  the  land,  live  in  it,  and  maki;  it  his 
exclusive  home,  and  must  bo  an  inhabitant  of  the  same  at  the  timo 
of  making  application  for  pre-emj)tion,  (Until  lately,  a  single  man 
might  board  with  his  nearest  neighbor;  but  the  same  is  now 
required  of  a  single  as  married  inen,  except  that  if  married,  the 
family  of  the  settler  must  also  live  in  the  Inmse.) 

G.  The  law  rccjuires  that  more  or  less  improvement  bo  made  on 
the  land,  such  as  breakiuL',  fencing,  etc. ;  but  pre-emptions  uu) 
granted  where  a  half-acre  is  broken  and  enclosed. 

7.  It  is  necessary  that  no  other  person  entithid  to  the  right  of 
pre-emption  reside  on  the  land  at  the  same  timo. 

8.  No  one  is  permitted  to  remove  from  his  own  land  and  make  a 
pre-emption  in  the  same  State  or  Territory. 

9.  The  settler  is  required  to  bring  with  him  to  the  land  oflieo  a 
written  or  printed  application,  setting  forth  the  facts  to  his  case  of 
the  1st,  2d,  and  od  re(iuircracnts  here  mentioned,  with  a  ccTtilicato 
appended,  to  be  signed  by  the  llcgistcr  and  Keceiv(!r;  and  mako 
affidavit  to  the  same. 


LIST   OV   OIIU'I  AI,H. 


noft 


10.  !!.«  is  nlso  jv.|uiiv.l  (..  In in.^  with   liiin  n  r,«.<|M.,'liiM.Mvi«iim» 
of  his  m«(Hi!.intiuioo  who  is  Kiu.wiiijt  lo  Hi.-   Wwtn  i.f  his  Hoflloiiirm 
to  nmko  MlVi.lavit  to   (ho    llh.  f.lh.  (Wh,  7lh   :ii..l   Sih   iv.,uin>ui..|i(H 
h.'io  nuiitu.ii.-.l,  with  (hof^aii.o  .■.,'(  loilh  on  |,n|...r.  vMlh  ii  .•oiivh|m.ii.| 
111^^  hlaiik  r,.r(ill,.««o  allm-hril,  (,>  h,.  Ni;'iu'.|  |.y  t\u>  LuihI  ( )lli,.,.,M. 

11.  Tho  pro  onipfor,  if  a  (nroiiriuM-,  iiiiimI, 'hiin^^  wuU  liim  (,,  jj,,, 
LuikI  Ollioo  ilii|.li.alrs  of  his  ii!iliimli/,afi..M  papris,  .July  Hi^uo.j  |.y 
Iho  olliiial  iVoiii  whom  Ihoy  woro  rociivod. 

A  minor  who  is  (ho  hni.l  of  ..  (amily,  or  a  \vi,!nw  may  als..  pro- 
rmpl-    th.'ir  lamilic-s  hrin-i  rc(|iiiro(l  (.•  hvo  on  th..  lan.j. 

^  Tho  si<lth>r  is  n .piinMl  Jo  lil,.  a  wiin.ii  .I.rh.ralmv  ((al.MirnJ,  of 
his  iiitontioM  fo  prtMuipt  hoforo  ho  .-an  pro.vc.j  wilh  his  pi npiio.i. 

Isf,.  Tho  IV,'  ir,,niiv.|  ly  (ho  ||,.,Msl,or  for  liliii,^  a  .h'ol,u-a(.)ry 
HiafcmcnJ,  is  uiio  (hillar. 

LM.  Korgran(,in^r„  p,,.  .-nipli.ui,  (ho  Ho^rlM,.,.  ,„„|  K,.,,„lvor  oiui 
rocoivo  lil'(y  vvuln. 

.'!<l.  Kor  (hiplioalo  ul  Ino  map  of  any  („wn.shij.,  (.no  duMar  iH  ro- 
(juirod  hy  tho  H(<^is((!r. 


MST  (>!■'  Oi'FM'i/M.M. 

TiiM  organization  of  tlm  territory  (if  Minn.'Hota  huvin^r  hoor.  mndo 
ihum<f  iUi'.  administration  of  I'rcsichMit  Taylor,  (hn  (irnt  (,mniil 
.■.ppni„tni.w.t,s  wcro  niado  (as  is  tho  pn-.-chmt)  (Vom  tho  runks  of  tho 
political  party  (hon  in  powor,  ..m.'u.pimlly  the  (irnt  ox.MMilivn 
ollinrs  of  IMinnoHota  woro  whi^^s.  lint  tin,  n.lmi,iiMtrati<.„  „f 
(Mineral  Pioroo  suococdin^',  tho  first  inonmhonts  w.;ro  romovod,  and 
(ho  important  oHi.-OH  of  tho  govornmont  of  Minnrsola  w<n.  liMo.l 
l.y  appointmont  ul'  tho  (h^mooruti.:  prosidont,  and  othorvviso  im 
lollow's  : —  ' 

(iov.:cNni, -Willis  A.   fJorman,    of   l,niian;i,    //..    Al.xa.,-!..,-    llamH-y 
l<iriii(!il_)'  of  I'oiMiMylviitiiii. 

HnniRiNTKNOKNT  OK  Imman  AiTAi..,.-    Mr.  UuehH.l.rnu,,  oC  Wnmmln 
Dice  (iovcrnor  Oorninn,  removed.  ' 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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AI'1'I::NI)IX, 


f^>,ww''7p'""'T~^-  ""■  '''""^^^''  '*'  ''''^^''"^•"'  --"  ^-'-^  Cooper, 
fonueWy  of  Pe.msy  van...;  and  Mos.s  She.bun.e,  of  Maine,  Wc.  Brudlei  R 
Me^-lcer,  forrneily  of  Ivcntneky  ^ 

(Ism:.  »„,«,  I),»™„.A.r,,,,,,v-Xo,-,lm,,  KMy  of  .New    Y„H„  ri,, 
i  I  fill  y  J  >.  iM  OSS,  of  Minnesota. 

lu'u lunf  M 'r '"'  r  ^";^^^— WiHiam  H.  Ilolcombe,  of  Minnesota,  vie. 
•luiMiiuiii  -M'Kusiclc,  ot  Mi'inesot.a. 

LAND-]lF;aiSTKR  AT  STILLWATin T    TVT     F.,I1,.4  fur- 

Piers.,  of  Minnesota.  ''"''  "^  ^^^""^^^"^'  "^'^  ^"^^ 

A  '^n";!m;r!J\r  ""T  1'-"'-^'^"^"-  n.  Wood,  of  Minnesota,  vice 
-.1.  v^niistrnas,  ot  Jliuuesota. 

Reubpn'u 'iT  T  ^""'^  r.APiDs-George  W.  Sweet,  of  Minnesota,  vice 
Keuben  If.  Ricbai-agoii.  of  Minnesota  »^  ,  vice 

fo.t!^^v'fy™f  ?"""""'•  ^'  ^''''^''''  "^^*^^^'^'  -■- A-  ^>f-  f-1'-, 

101  mei'Jy  ot  JNew  York.  "' 

ro^::;\vSL;^  Ck..™s-D.  B.  nei.ri»a.,  of  Indian,  ...  .  S.  Wat- 
Fo^T^rMresot:-  ^^--^'^-^^  «•  <^-'  Of  Minnesota,  .-.  W.  H. 

G^?^;^Mi^^;a.^^^"°^^-'^^'"  ^^-  "^-' ''  ^^--°^^'  ^^^  ^^^ 

(JOLLECTOR  OF  United  States  Custom3  AT  Sr.  I'AUL-Robert  Kennedr 
of  Mmnesota,  me  Charles  J.  Henniss,  of  Minnesota.  ^: 

Collector  OF  United  States  Customs  at  Pjo.MmNA- Philip  Beaupre 
of  Minnesota,  vice  Charles  Cavileer,  of  Minnesota.  ^     ' 

watcTn/hite:o'fTn;:sor^^^^^-^-  ^-  «-^^^'  ^^  ^"^=-'  --^^ 

t.r^''o^«^■'^^?'''''''~"'°'7  ^^-  ^'°«'  ^^'^^  "^»^y  "•  SiWey  (whose 
tarm  of  service  had  expired,  the  delegate  being  elected  for  two  years). 

A^™  n"'"''~c "^'^^'"^ '•^""^"'  ^'■^^^-  ^'-  I^abcock,  resigned. 

Territorial  Audii  .r—JuUus  Georgii. 

Territorial  Treasurer— C.  E.  Leonard. 

Superintendent  of  SciiooLs-William  Sprigg  Hall. 

Keoister  of  Minneapolis,  Land  Office-M.  L.  Olds. 

^''^^'^^^  "  ''  "  K.  P.  Russell. 


NORTHERN   MINNESOTA. 


S65 


Registku  of  Red  Wing  Land  OrncE— W.  W  Phelcs 

!^''^""^"^^  ''  "         "  C.  Graham. 

Register  of  Winona  Land  Office— D.  Uphani 

^'^'^''"'^^       „   "  "         "         L.  D.  Smith. 

Rec'fivek  ''  ^'''T'"''^  ^'"^  OFPicE-Major  Bennett. 

Surveyor  of  Iumdee— Daniel  Stnnchaeld.  "'°°^' 

"  Robert  Ilastic. 

"  James  B.  Dkon 


NORTHERN  MINNESOTA. 

That  portion  of  our  Territory  which  lies  between  St.  Anthony 
and  Crow  Wmg  Kiver,  on  both  side,  of  the  Mississippi,  but  ehieZ 
on  the  west  s.de,  :s  eomparatiyely  little  inown  or  appreeated,  either 
abroad  or  by  our  own  people.     The  resourees  and  advantag  s  tha 

t  offers  to  enterpnso  and  labor  are  nowhere  surpassed,  if  equalled 
m    ho  newly-sottled  parts  of  this  country.     All  the  way  on  th^ 
west  side  upward  from  Minneapolis,  and  as  far  westward  as  erplort 

.ons  have  been  made,  the  soil  is  exceedingly  rich,  the  nra iries 
mterspersed  with  timber  of  iarge  growth  and  rf  the    est  -arMes 

dantThr'  "'"/  ""'""^-'  ^P™S''  '^''^  -^  rivulets  a  „n: 
dant,  and  the  air  and  temperature  precisely  of  that  stamp  that  is 
particularly  associated  with  the  name  of  Minnesota.  The  ™t 
pinenes  that  he  above  Crow  Wing  will  furnish  a  market  that  can 
hardly  ever  be  glutted  foral.  the  produce  that  can  be  raised  for  sale 
The  farmers  who  occupy  this  region  will  always  find  a  ready  dcmani 
at  their  own  doors,  and  the  prices  they  will  realize  for  grain  and 
meat  will  not  be  equalled  in  any  other  portion  of  the  Territory 

The  first  improven.  .,t  to  be  desired  for  N  .thern  Minnesota  is, 
the  opening  of  good  wagon  roads  from  the  head  of  take  Superior 
^  was  mentioned  by  Judge  Meeker  in  his  late  speech  a^Sauk 
Eapids.  All  parties  interested  in  that  quarter,  must  sec  what  an 
impetus  easy  and  expeditious  cemmunication  with  the  Lake  would 
give  0  business  there.  Whenever,  and  as  soon  as  such  commanTea 
tion  takes  p  ace,  the  people  living  there,  and  even  in  this  city  wHl 
receive  all  their  goods  by  way  of  the  Lake.  ^' 

That  will  bo  their  best,  and  wo  might  almost  say  their  onlv 
valucd'h-  f  °"   *■""'""   ™"   ""'"'"'O'  '-^  -"  begin  to  t 


SUITLEMEXT  TO  THE  TENTH  EDITION. 

SiNCK  the  preparation  of  this  work,  in  the  spring  and  sunnner 
of  1803,  the  business  of  Minnesota  Territory  has  increased  to  such 
an  extent,  as  to  render  the  compilation  of  the  following  summary 
essentially^necessary  to  exhibit  the  true  position  f  the  cities  of  St. 
Paul  and  St.  Anthony,  on  the  op  ing  of  navigation  ia  185G.  It 
shows  tlie  immigrant,  the  disinterested  traveller,  and  the  intelligent, 
thriving,  busy,  go-ahead  humanity  of  our  own  American  Union,  as 
well  as  the  world  of  tyranny,  oppression,  starvation,  and  distress 
abroad  — the  truth;  viz.,  the  advanta-os,  the  inducements,  and 
the  blessings,  which  Minnesota  holds  out  to  them. 


BUSINESS    ESTABLISHMENTS,  ETC.,  IN  ST.  PAUL, 

g*^  ^™A;;:-/" 5    Livery  Stables 5 

Sash  and  Blind  Factory 1  :  Lumber  Yards o 

Grist  Mills 2  !  Joiner  Shops Z on 

Iron  and  Brass  Foundery 1    Wagon  Factones  ....       "5 

A\ood  and  Ivory  Turner 1  1  Plough  Factory ".*.'.* 1 

Storage  Warehouses 20    "  ••••<■■• 


Soajj  and  Candle  Factory 1 

Cabinet  Warehouses (', 

Fur  Stores 3 

_,      ,         ,,  --Blacksmiths 10 

Ciockery  Stores 5    Tinners  and  Stove  Dealers ::  1() 

Clothing  Stores 10    Lawyers L 


Grocery  and  Provision 50 

Drygoods  and  Grocery 20 

Drygoods  Merchants 25 


];i 

1 
1 
1 

7 


Drugs  and  Medicines , 

Boots  and  Shoes 15 

Book  Stores 4 

Nurseries 2 

Auctioneers 4 

Daguerreotypist 1 

Paint  Shops , jq 

Brick  Yards 2 

Saloons 20 

Wholesale  Liquor  Stores G 

Confectioners 6 

Jewellers g 

Tailors IQ 

Milliners 10    _  . 

Fancy  and  Vai-iety  Stores !  20    Churcher."..!*' m 

1 


wyers 80 

Bankers  and  Brokers 1() 

Hotels 

State  House  .. 
Court  House.. 
Market  House 

Schools 

Newspapers ](> 

Harness  Alakers (j 

Tobacco  Factory j 

Bakers » f; 

Horse-Shoeing ]() 

Physicians 39 

Dentists 5 

Pteal  Estate  Agents... 5{) 


Hat,  Cap,  and  Clothing 10 

Iron  Store j 

Hardware  Stores IQ 

Gunsmiths 2 

Gentlemen's  Furnishing  Stores...  6 

Barber  Shops jq 

Bookbinder j 

Meat  Market '.  \ 


Post  Office 
Catholic  Hospital 

Societies 5 

Banks qo 

Number  of  Houses 2000 

Population loToOO 

Capital  in  business So.OOC.OOO 

Property  assessed $1,500,000 

(366) 


suiimier 
d  to  such 
summary 
ies  of  St. 
85G.  It 
telligent, 
[Jiiion,  a3 
l1  distress 
cnts,  and 


5 

2 

20 

5 

......     1 

1 

(J 

3 

10 

10 

8(t 

10 

];i 

1 

1 

1 

7 

10 

(J 

......  1 

f) 

10 

80 

r> 

no 

10 

1 

1 

5 

00 

...  2000 
10.000 

ooc.ooo 

500,000 


As  a  sjHMM.ncM.  of  tl.o  l.u^incss  done  at  .St.  Paul,  the  follo.v. 
'".  particulars,  „»  ro^r.rd  to  the  lumber-trade  of  the  f,v.  .^w 
""llHin  the  city,  are  sivcu.—  <  "u.  saw- 

1.  Rofar^>/Sfeum  M;//^o^vnoA  hy  P.  Chotoau  and  Oo- 
Lower  laudn.g.     N,„n,,,  of  saw.,  seven:   two  upright  saws, 

Z  r7''"\""  ''''•"^^'^  ^^^^^'^"«  ^'^^''  --v.  one  cross-cut 
C'u  '"i  ""'''"^'  «''^"''-  o>'e  AVoodworth'sidaninc,^n.achine 
fplnn.u,.  hoards.  The  saws  cut  from  one  hundn-d  to  one 
J  nndred  and  twenty  thousand,  f.et  of  lund.er  per  week;  average 
a  out  t,venty-five  thousand  la.h  and  thirty-ilve  thous.;„d  shit^ 
week     'n     '   I'^''^"?  ^^^*'"^y-fivo  to  thirty  thousand   hoard  per 

Te       V    I"  '''"""'^'  "^'  '''^"  "'^  P^^-  >'«''^^-  ^«  ^'""-  ^"ilHo.Ks  of 
icot.     lorty-n.ne  men  are  en.ployed  in  and  ahout  this  factory, 

.n  d,wUh  a  cajufal  of  thirty-two  .l.onsand  dollars,  the  con.pany 
a  e  dnvu.g  a  hnsk  business.     Tl.ey  manufacture  princi  .ally 
i  ioi  liome  consnn,ptn>n,  and"  turn  out  excellent  work. 

2    >S/...M  il7///-_owned  by  Ames  and  Hoy t- near  Dayton's 
11   s:^.  ^;;,f-t'^'^^^-'^'^---  ^- ^T^.M  n.ula,  sawMwo 

1;—  dXr^^"^^^^^^^^^     Capital  employed,  iiaeen 

totf'.  f 'r'  ^^'^t-T'"^  ^^y  I-  S'-'^t-^l  an^l  Co. -near  Day- 
on  s  landing.     N„,nber  of  saws,  one  :  a  sixty-one  inch  rotary 
saw,  winch  w.ll  cut  forty  thousand  feet  per  week.     The  nun^ 
ber  of  men  emp  oyed  is,  on  an  average,  ten.     Capital  invested 
tvvelve  thousand  dollars.     About  half  of  the  lumber  cut  at  tin 
factory  will  go  to  St.  Louis  and  the  towns  on  the  Mississippi. 

4.  My..J^  iW/_ owned  by  D.  L.  Fuller-Upper  landin... 
One  upright  saw  which  cuts  one  million,  five  hundred  tho,:. 
^and  feet  of  lumber  per  year.  Men  employed,  ten.  Capital 
invested,  ten  thousand  dollars.  About  half  of  the  InmheJ  cut 
at  tins  mill  ,s  for  home  consumption.  The  balance  finds  a 
marlcet  below. 

^  mlei- of  saws  tl  rco  :  „„e  mulay  „,,ngl,t  saw,  „„o  cucl,;. 
c  .t-ojf  saw,  one  lath  saw ;  one  machine  f,„-  cntth.g  shingle.,. 
Men  emp  „ye,  ,  twelve.  Nnn.her  of  feet  cnt  pe.  year,  one 
.n.ll,on,   i,ve  hnudred   thousand.      Capital    invested,   e  even 


hi.' 


H 


368 


SUrrLKMENT. 


thousand  dollars.  The  pi'incipal  portion  of  the  lumber  from 
this  mill  is  for  home  consumption. 

Total  capital  in  saw-mills,  eighty  thousand  dollars. 

Winshw's  Hotel. — This  hold,  beautiful  building  is  the  ad- 
miration of  all  who  behold  it.  It  is  located  on  the  corner  of 
Eagle  and  Fort  streets,  near  the  capital,  and  is  one  of  the 
principal  ornaments  to  the  city.  It  is  built  of  brick,  is  five 
stories  high,  and  surmounted  by  a  cupola,  which  overlooks  the 
greater  portion  of  St.  Paul.  It  fronts  seventy-one  feet  on 
Eagle  street,  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  feet  on  Fort  street, 
and  contains  one  hundred  and  fifty  rooms,  divided  as  follows: 
In  the  basement  the  saloon,  thirty-eight  by  forty  feet.  There 
are  four  other  rooms,  fifteen  by  twenty-nine,  fronting  on  Fort 
street;  a  batli-room,  thirty  by  forty;  and  a  billiard-saloon, 
thirty  by  sixty.  On  the  first  floor  above  the  basement  there 
are  seven  stores  —  five  on  Fort  street,  and  two  on  Eagle  street. 
On  the  same  floor  is  a  large  concert-room,  thirty  by  sixty, 
with  dressing-rooin  attached.  On  the  third  floor  is  the  dininfr- 
room,  which  Avill  seat  from  one  hundred  and  seventy -five  to 
two  hundred  persons ,;  the  ladies'  parlor,  thirty  by  thirty-five 
feet;  the  gentlemen's  sitting-room,  thirty  by  thirty-five  feet; 
the  ofijce  of  the  hotel,  and  several  suites  of  rooms  for  families. 
On  the  fourth  and  fifth  floors  there  are  some  twenty  suites  of 
rooms  for  families,  and  many  fine  single  rooms,  well  done  off 
and  very  sightly.  The  cost  of  this  building  is  thirty-five 
thonsan ''  dollars.  Great  credit  is  due  Mr.  Winslow  for  his 
enterpu.'ng  and  persevering  spirit,  in  erecting  one  of  the 
finest,  most  commodious,  and  roost  commanding  buildings,  for 
a  hotel,  this  side  of  Chicago.  It  stands  out  in  bold  relief  as  a 
memento  of  what  industry  and  enterprise  can  do,  and  receives, 
as  it  very  justly    deserves,   the   encomiums  of  citizens   and 


strangers. 


The  FuUcr  IT(jme.~T\\\s  splendid  hotel  was  erected  in  1855-56, 
by  Alpheus  G.  Fuller,  Esq.,  of  St.  Paul.  It  is  situated  on  the 
corner  of  Seventh  and  Jackson  Streets,  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
city.  It  is  built,  of  brick,  is  five  stories  above  the  ba-scmcnt,  and 
120  feet  square.  It  contains  120  sleeping  rooms.  It  is  a  great 
ornament  to  this  portion  of  the  city. 


ST,    PAUL. 


369 


Great  credit  is  due  Mr.  Fuller  for  the  energy  and  public  .pirit 
displayed  in  its  erection.     Two  splendid  hotels  of  the  larr^est  size 
one  in  each  end  of  the  city,  have  already  been  destroyed  by  fire' 
Our  hotel  accommodations  are  now  fully  equal  to  the  wants  of  the 
travelling  community,  and  are  all  kept  in  the  very  best  of  style. 

The  other  hotels  are:  — the  American  II^uso,  Snelling  House, 
Central  House,  Merchants'  Hotel,  M'Lean  House,  Temperance 
House,  Galena  House,  Mississippi  Hoase,  Lafayette  House,  Fr6. 
mont  House  and  St.  Paul  House. 

Cymrchcs.— First  Presbyterian,  Rev.  Mr.  Barnes,  pastor;  Second 
Iresbytenan  (new),  llev.  Mr.  llicheldaffer;  Methodist,  Kev.  Mr 
lenman;  Baptist,  Rev.  A.  M.  Torbert;  Episcopal,  Rev.  Dr.  Van 
Ingen;  German  Methodist,  Kev.  Mr.  Korfhacj;  Catholic,  Rt.  Rev. 
Joseph  Cretan  ;  House  of  Hope,  Rev.  E.  D.  Neill. 

T/^e  State  House  is  a  very  spacious  brick  building,  with  a 
stupendous  dome.  The  rooms  are  large  and  airy,  and  the 
building  one  of  which  St.  Paul  may  well  be  proud. 

The  Court  Home  is  also  of  brick,  with  a  dome,  and  answers 
the  purposes  for  which  it  is  intended. 

^  The  PuhUc  Market  House  is  a  large  brick  building,  well 
situated,  and  aftording  ample  room  for  our  butchers. 

The  Catholic  Hospital. —Thh  is  a  large  stone  edifice,  near 
the  capitol,  built  for  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  It  is  not  yet 
finished,  but  is  drawing  toward  completion.  I  am  glad  to 
place  it  among  our  public  buildings. 

The  Baldwin  School. — Prominent  among  the  public  build- 
ings of  St.  Paul,  stands  the  Baldwin  school  edifice.  Its  fine 
architectural  proportions  and  its  conspicuous  position  conspire 
to  render  it  an  object  of  notice  to  the  stranger,  and  of  pride 
and  satisfaction  to  those  interested  in  the  cause  of  education. 
Five  years  ago  the  present  location  was  a  wilderness,  where 
civilized  man  seldom  or  never  trod  — where  naught  but  Katiiro 
in  her  most  rugged  state  met  the  eye  — and  where  the  untu- 
tored savage  roamed  in  pursuit  of  food,  or  loitered  lazily  be- 
neath the  shade  of  the  forest  trees.  How  changed  the  scene  ! 
The  trees  have  fallen  beneath  the  axe  of  the  pioneer  j  the  soil 
has  been  made  subservient  to  the  wants  of  civilization  •   the 

IG* 


!  :.iii 


m 


370 


SUri'LKMKNT. 


i 


red  man  lias  jrono  still  fiutlior  on,  to  ckc  out  an  existence  of 
indolence  and  i<;iioraiice  ;  while  life,  and  enerp^y,  and  industry, 
are  now  visilde  wherever  the  eye  mny -^vander.  AVhat  lias 
cansed  this  cliango?  The  onward  march  of  education  — the 
intelligence  of  the  people  — the  development  of  civilization. 
It  in,  therefere,  highly  becoming,  that  on  this  spot  should  be 
erected  a  building  for  educational  purposes,  to  contrast  with 
the  past ;  a  building  dedicated  to  the  improvement  of  the  mind 
and  the  moral  training  of  the  young;  a  building,  the  light 
from  which  shall  irradiate  the  surrounding  darkness,  and  send 
forth  new  pioneers  in  the  great  battle  of  life.  8uch  a  building 
han  been  erected  — such  a  building  is  the  Baldwin's  school. 

Through  the  liberality  of  Matthew  W.  Baldwin,  Esq.,  a 
wealthy  manufacturer  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  untiring  exer- 
tions of  Roy.  Mr.  Ncill,  pastor  of  tho  House  of  Hope  of 
this  city,  this  school  has  been  established  in  our  midst.  It 
is  a  chartered  institution,  with  a  board  of  trustees;  it  is  cen- 
trally and  conveniently  located,  and  is  intended  fur  the  higher 
branches  of  learning.  The  building  is  of  brick,  is  two  stories 
high,  and  was  commenced  in  July,  1S53.  The  rooms*  are  large, 
high  between  joints,  and  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  for  which 
they  are  intended. 

And  now,  overlookmg  the  migiity  Mississippi  —  located  in 
the  midst  of  what  is  destined  to  be  a  great  connnercial  empo- 
rium, whose  arteries  and  blood  vessels  will  extend  over  and 
through  a  vast  extent  of  country,  imparting  vitality,  and 
shaping  and  moulding  the  character  of  the  people  — guided 
and  surrounded  by  men  of  mind,  of  influence,  and  of  wealth, 
tlie  Baldwin  school  is  destined  to  act  an  important  part  in  the 
future  welfare  of  this  northwestern  region,  and  Avill  reflect 
imperishable  honor  upon  the  name  of  him  who  has  contributed 
so  liberally  toward  its  erection  and  its  support.  The  index 
finger  of  Tim.,  as  years  roll  en,  will  point  with  pride  to  this 
spot;  the  child  will  be  taught  to  venerate  it  as  his  Alma 
]\Iater  ;  the  man  of  years  will  regard  it  as  the  basis  upon 
which  was  built  a  noble  and  enduiing  superstructure;  and 
thus,  fond  associations  will  cluster  around  and  uphold  it,  until 
in  its  strength  it  shall  walk  forth  with  giant  tread,  wielding  a 


Istonce  of 
1  ill  (lastly, 
What  liRs 
-tioii  —  the 
ivilization. 
sliould  bo 
itrast  Avith 
f  (ho  iniiid 
,  tho   liolit 

and  scud 
a  building 
school. 
>,  Esq.,  a 
ring  exer- 

Hope  of 
midst.  It 
it  is  cen- 
the  higher 
two  stories 
»are  large, 

for  which 

ocatcd  in 
ial  empo- 
over  and 
dity,  and 
—  guided 
f  Avealtli, 
art  in  the 
ill  reflect 
•ntributod 
'he  index 
de  to  this 
his  Alma 
asis  upon 
lire ;  and 
I  it,  until 
ielding  a 


ST.    I'ALL.  371 

powerful  influence  for  the  cause  of  Right  and  for  the  glorious 
cause  of  Education.  The  best  of  teachers  have  been  engao-ed, 
and  no  efiorts  will  be  spared  to  give  the  school  a  charact.M- 
and  a  standing  not  inferior  to  any  academy  in  the  states.  We 
Avish  the  Baldwin  school  all  success. 

The  Episcopal  Mission  School,  connected  with  the  Episcopal 
timrch,  IS  delightfully  situated  on  the  bluff',  amid  the  trees, 
and  we  understand  is  in  a  flourishing  condition. 

There  are  two  district  schools  — two  Catholic  schools- 
one  ior  boy.s  and  one  for  girls.  There  is  another  school  in^ 
i^ower  St.  Paul,  and  several  select  schools,  which  afl'ord  ample 
means  for  educational  pm-poses.  Persons  about  to  emigrate 
to  bt.  Paul,  may  be  sure  that  their  children  can  enjoy  all  the 
advantages  of  schooling  as  at  the  east. 

Bridges.— K  splendid  bridge  is  about  being  erected  across  the  river 
from  the  foot  of  Wabashaw  Street.  The  stock  has  all  been  taken,  and 
the  work  will  be  speedily  completed.  Another  is  about  being  con- 
structed across  the  IMississippi  at  Fort  Snclling.  The  stock  has 
been  subscribed  and  the  work  is  to  bo  commenced  immediately— 
St.  Paul  will  now  have  easy  access  to  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
and  trade  from  those  regions  will  flow  in  upon  us  in  an  increased 
ratio. 

Cify  Flectiors.— At  the  charter  election  for  city  officers  in  May, 
1855,  800  votes  were  polled.  Alexander  Ramsey  was  elected  St' 
Paul's  first  Mayor.  In  May,  1856,  George  L.  Becker,  Es(|.,  was 
elected  Mayor  — 1250  votes  were  polled.  Counting  500  citizens 
who  lacked  the  necessary  six  months'  residence,  and  those  public- 
spirited  individuals  who  remained  away  from  the  polls,  and  Saint 
Paul  contains  over  2000  voters— or  10,000  inhabitants.  Truly  are 
her  citizens  men  who  went  into  the  wilderness  and  buildcd  them  a 
city.  Measuring  old  time  by  events,  and  a  century  has  elapsed 
since  the  birth  of  Minnesota  in  1849. 

A  Contrast.— Have  is  a  significant  fact.  In  1847,  :Rris8 
Harriet  E.  Bishop  came  to  St.  Paul  (or,  rather,  where  St.  Paul 
now  stands)  as  a  teacher.  She  thus  describes,  in  a  very 
interesting  letter,  the  first  schoolhouse  :  — 

"  The  building  devoted  to  this  purpose  was  a  mud-walled 
log-house,  ten  by  twelve,  a  bark  roof,  three  six-light  windows, 
and  n  door  which  I  must  stoop  to  enter.     The  building  had 


Ji: 


iim  jfr 


372 


SKIM'MIMKNT. 


onco  l»ocn  a  staMo,  nftorward  n  ItlHcksniitli-slinp.  On  tliroo 
Bides,  jtiiis  had  hcoii  driven  into  l!i(!  lof:;s,  and  iMianlH  placed 
across  for  Heats.  A  cliair  was  appropriated  i'or  tny  use  ;  a 
black-board  lunif?  against  tlie  logs,  and  a  crosh-legged,  rickety 
table  occupied  tlio  centre  of  the  room.  Here,  vvitli  nine  j>upils 
ha]»pier  tlian  if  I  had  been  a  queen,  and  feeling  that  I  \vouM 
not  exchange  situations  with  any  person  living,  I  commenced 
the  first  citi/en-scliool  ever  taught  in  Minnesota.  There  were 
mission-schools  among  the  Indians,  and  a  government-school 
fit  Fort  Hnclling.  Of  the  nine  i)upiis,  two  of  them  were  white. 
There  was  a  daily  increase  vmtil  the  number  amoiniled  to 
thirty;  and  when  those  in  attendance  numbered  forty,  only 
eight  of  them  were  Americans." 

In  1849,  the  territory  was  organized.  What  St.  Paul  now 
is,  the  above  statistics  fully  show.  Judging  from  the  history 
of  the  past,  as  well  as  the  signs  of  the  times  for  the  future, 
St.  Paul,  in  twenty  years,  will  rival  any  city  on  the  Missis- 
sippi river.     Mark  our  prophecy. 


THE  HISTORY  AND  BUSLNESS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY. 

TiiK  following  article  was  prepared  by  I.  Atwater,  Esq.,  and 
was  first  published  in  the  St.  Anthony  Express,  in  January, 
1854.  It  presents  a  fine  view  of  the  present  and  future  pros- 
pects of  that  flourishing  town  :  — 

The  first  account  we  have  of  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  is  by 
Father  Hennepin,  a  Roman  Catholic  missionary  priest.  He 
discovered  them  in  the  year  1680,  and  named  them  St.  Anthony, 
in  honor  of  his  patron  saint,  Anthony,  of  Padua. 

More  than  a  hundred  and  fifty  years  elapsed  from  the  first 
discovery  of  these  falls,  till  the  first  improvement  connnenced 
by  any  white  man.  E.  Steele,  Esq.,  was  the  pioneer  who  iirst 
"fleshed  his  axe"  in  the  unbroken  wilderness,  which  extended 
from  below  the  present  southern  boundary  of  the  territory,  to 
Pembina  on  the  north ;  and  from  Superior  on  the  east,  to  the 
Rocky  mountains  on  the  west.  He  arrived  in  what  is  now 
the  Territory  of  Minnesota,  in  the  year  ls:{7.     'J'he  same  year 


Sr.    ANTHONY. 


373 


Oil  tliroo 
1h  jdaced 
y  UH«' ;  a 
1,  rickoty 
110  ]>ii|)ils 
t  I  voiiM 
UMiioiicod 
icrc  were 

illt-HC'IlOoI 

'vo  white, 
tiinfcd  to 
irty,  only 

f*aiil  now 
0  Iiistory 
le  future, 
0  Missis- 


f^sq.,  and 
rJanuarv. 


lire 


pros- 


>ny  is  by 
est.  lie 
iiitliony, 

I  tlio  first 
nnit'iiccd 
wlio  iir.st 
ixtonded 
•itory,  to 
t,  to  tlie 
.  is  novv 
nio  vc;ir 


ho  coninuMiced   l.nnl)eriiin^  on  tlio   St.  Croix.     'J'lils  was  tlie 
fiiHt   I.iinl.eriii-  in   tlu,   territory.     Altl.nu^^h    not  Ktrictly  ,,er- 
tainm-   to  onr  Mil.joct.  it  may  not  Le  improper  or  uniiitercst- 
iiig  to  mention   tl.e  li.mil.le  beginning  ol"  a  business  aheady 
«o    largo,  ami    destined    to    become  of  such  vast   magnitudo 
and  importance.      His   team   then    consisted   of  a  single  ox, 
driven  ta,idrm,  before  a  cart,  and   a  crew  of  six  half-l.recMls. 
His  supplies  were  composed  of  a  barrel  of  pork,  which  cost 
forty  dollars,  a  barrel  of  flour  at  eleven  dollars,  jmlf  a  bushel 
of  beans  at  four  dollars,  molasses  at  two  dollars  per  gallon,  and 
other   things   in   proportion.     His   operations   this  year   were 
principally  confii.otl  to  getting  lumber  for  a  mill  on  the  St.  Croix 
which  was  erected  by  C.  A.  Tuttle,  Esq.     Twenty-four  saws 
are  now  constantly  running  on  that  stream,  and  from  thirty  to 
thirty-five  millions  of  feet  of  lumber  produced  annually.     And 
yet,  the  business  has  but  just  commenced. 
_  Mr.  Steele  commenced  the  first  improvement  on  the  present 
site  of  St.  Anthony  in  the  year   1837.     He  built  a  small  log- 
house,  just  in   front  of  the  present  log-house  standing  at  the 
foot  of  the  bluff,  nearly  opposite  the  f.iUs.     This  was  the  only 
house  then  erected  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  St.  Cioix. 
The  whole  country  was  a  complete  wil.Ieniess,  inhabited  only 
by  savages,  principally  Sioux  and  Chippewas,  who  watched 
with  a  jealous  eye  these  first  encroachments  on  their  domain. 
But  little  did  they  then  dream,  that  within   fiCteen  years  the 
"westward   march  of   empire"  would   extend  far  beyond  the 
roar  of   the  cataract,   and  the  "pale  face"   seize  more  than 
thirty  millions  of  acres  of  their  choicest  hunting-grounds  as  his 
lawful  prize. 

lu  1837  there  was  also  built  a  small  house  nearly  opposite 
the  upper  end  of  Hennepin  island,  and  another  in  the  same 
relative  position  to  Nicollet  island. 

The  log-house  above  referred  to,  near  where  Allen's  livery 
now  stands,  was  built  in  1843-'44.  Mr.  S.  purchased  that  part 
extending  from  opposite  the  lower  part  of  Hennepin  island, 
down  to  the  foot  of  the  bluff  this  side  of  Cheever's,  and  east 
as  far  as  the  town  plot  extends,  of  Joseph  Reache,  a  French, 
man,  for  two  Imndred   and  fifty  dollars.     Tha  part  from  the 


J-U-UWHIP 


1$ 


374 


SUPl'LKMI'lNT. 


h 

u  I  ii! 


bridge  Icadinpf  to  Nicollet  itilnnd,  to  tlic  iioifli  Imiil  of  tlio  vil- 
iHgc,  lie  |>mc'li;iH(!(l  of  t.  Fliullcy  tlie  .sjiiiie  year  for  one  hun- 
dred dollars,  and  in  1815,  bouglit  of  Teler  Qtiiiui  the  ujuxm-  end 
of  tlio  town  and  IJoorn  island  for  one  luindred  and  lifty  dollars. 
These  of  course  were  only  "clainiH,"  the  land  at  that  time 
not  having  been  survey   1  by  government. 

Meantime,  another  individual  who  has  taken  a  jjiominent 
part  in  the  early  history  of  St.  Anthony,  and  whose  name  fre- 
(|uently  appears  in  the  county  records,  became  a  ri'sidciit  of 
the  territory  —  I'icrre  liottineau.  Jlons.  Ilottiueau  is  a  haH"- 
blood  Chippewa,  his  niothe-  having  belonged  to  that  tribe, 
while  his  father  was  a  Frenchman,  or  rather  a  native  of  Cana- 
da, of  French  descent.  He  came  to  what  is  now  St.  I'aul  to 
reside,  in  1840.       'e  is  a  native  of  Temhina. 

After  remaining  in  St.  I'aul  until  181o,  he  removed  to  St. 
Anthony,  lie  purchased  of  Jlessrs.  Russell  and  Fiudley  their 
right  or  claim  to  the  land  or  tract,  now  recorded  as  Bottineau's 
addition  to  tlie  town  of  St.  Anthony.  For  this  he  paid  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  He  built  the  second  house  in  St. 
Anthony.  The  third  house  was  built  in  1816  by  Mons.  Degu- 
lais,  also  from  Red  River.  There  was  also  a  log  house  Imilt 
this  year,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  at  Chcever's.  At  the  time  of 
the  Government  sale  of  the  lands  at  this  point  in  1818,  these 
were  all  the  houses  in  St.  Anthony,  except  the  block  house. 

In  June,  18-17,  AVm.  A.  Cheever,  Esq.,  came  to  the  Falls  of 
St.  Anthony.  On  the  10th  of  July  of  the  same  year,  an  agree- 
ment was  entered  into,  by  which  Mr.  Steele  agreed  to  sell  nine 
tenths  of  his  interest  or  claim  at  the  Falls,  valued  at  twelve 
tliousaud  dollars,  to  Cheever, Robert  Rantotd,  jr.,  Caleb  Cushing, 
and  others.  Operations  for  building  mills  Avere  to  be  immedi- 
ately commenced.  Uv.  Ard  Godfrey,  from  ]\[aine,  was  employed  • 
to  superintend  the  erection  of  the  mills,  who,  with  others, 
arrived  in  September  following.  Among  these  were  llv.  Calei) 
Dorr,  John  M'Donakl,  S.  Fernald,  Ira  Burroughs,  John  Peaks, 
and  others.  R.  Cummings  was  also  engaged  on  the  work  the 
same  winter.  The  dam  was  commenced  the  same  fall,  an<l  a 
company  sent  with  Mr.  D.  Stanchfield,  up  Rum  river  to  cit 
timber  for  the  dam,  which  it  Avas  intended  to  have  on  hand 


HT.    ANT -ONY. 


-»« 


Cjina- 


l)cforo  the  close  of  tl.e  rivor.  Unfortunately,  wlntor  kcI  in. 
when  tljc  timber  renclicd  tho  nioutli  of  Rum  river,  and  it  there 
froze  up.  It  ^\  ent  out  with  the  high  wntcr  in  tho  «prinR,  prov- 
m-  a  total  loss,  to  the  nmount  of  some  three  thouH.'vnd  dcdiarB. 
Another  company,  sent  tf.  Swan  river  to  procure  timber  for  th. 
mill  frame,  was  a^so  unfortunate. 

They  cut  fifty  sticks,  for  which  they  paid  the  Indian  ciiief 
Ifolc-in-the-day  two  hundred  dollars.  Tlic  timber  lodged  on 
Tiko  Ilapids,  some  nine  miles  above  Sauk  Itapids,  and  m  as 
also  frozen  in  for  the  winter.  It  wa8  mostly  secured  in  the 
spring,  however,  and  was  used  in  tho  frames  of  the  lirst  two 
mills. 

Disappointed  in  uieir  expectations  of  procuring  timbci-  from 
Kum  river,  to  ^  did  tho  dam,  resort  was  had  to  the  adjacent 
islands.  A  largo  quantity  of  beautiful  maple  and  elm  was  cut 
from  Hennepin,  Nicollet,  and  Boom  islands,  and  used  in  the 
construction  of  tho  dam. 

For  the  accommodation  of  tho  hands  engaged  on  the  dam 
the  block  house  near  the  bridge  leading  to  Nicollet  island  was 
budt  in  tho  fVill  of  IS  17;  and  since  better  known  as  tho  -  Old 
Mess-house."     TJie  plank  iu  this  cdilice  came  from  tho  Al- 
legany mountains. 

11.  P.  Russell,  Esq.,  came  to  St.  Anthony  and  opened  a  store 
in  tho  fall  of  1847,  in  the  old  log-house  opposite  the  falb.  Uv. 
Patch's  family  resided  in  the  same  house,  and  Mrs.  Patch  and 
daughters  were  tho  first  American  women  in  the  place.  C.  A. 
Tuttle,  Esq.,  came  to  the  place  in  the  fall  of  1847. 

Misfm-tuncs  now  befell  the  infant  settlement.  The  boat  on 
which  tho  goods  were  shipped  for  the  use  of  tho  employees  was 
sunk  in  the  Erie  canal.  Tho  hardware,  of  which  they  were 
greatly  in  need,  was  wholly  lost.  Great  difficulty  was  experi- 
enced in  procuring  the  necessary  tools  to  carry'on  the  work. 
Axes,  augurs,  saws,  &c.,  were  scarce,  and  r.  sufficient  6upi)ly 
coidd  not  be  had  for  love  or  money.  The  winter  was  very 
.severe— provisions  were  scarce  and  high.  Female  help,  it  was 
impossible  to  obtain,  and  a  man  was  employed  to  <liscliavgo 
the  duties  of  cook  and  laundress.  Great  difficulty  and  delay 
were  experienced  in  procuring  the  requisite  amount  of  lumber 


37(5 


SUI'l'LKMKNT. 


m 


I  i-  ^  11 


—  IK)  saw  beiitjjf  yet  in  operation.  It  .sliould  be  slated,  liowcv- 
er,  tliat  an  aj)()lo'>;y  lor  a  saw  existed  in  tlie  old  <;overnnienfc 
mill  on  the  west  side  of  llie  river.  AVlieu  tested  to  its  utmost 
caj)acity,  tliree  or  four  hundred  I'eet  per  da}-,  Mas  its  maximum. 
'J'lie  sujjply  was  not  equal  to  tlio  demand  ;  and  twenty  thou- 
sand feet  wore  obtained  IVoin  the  St.  Croix  uiill,  and  hauled 
from  St.  Paul  by  Land.  The  mill  irons  -were  brought  from 
]\raine,  and  also  hauled  from  St.  Croix  by  land.  In  September, 
lb4S,  two  saws  commenced  running.  Captain  Rollins  arrive-l 
in  December,  1848.  The  river  had  closed  before  he  reached 
<j!al(>iia,  and  he,  with  Mr.  Godfrey  (who  had  been  east),  hired 
a  j^uide  and  came  on  horseback  from  Prairie  du  Chien. 

In  August,  1818,  Mr.  Chccver  entered  and  })aid  for  the  tract, 
which,  in  October  of  the  same  year,  was  laid  out  in  a  town  site 
and  named  St.  Anthony  city.  In  the  fall  of  the  same  year, 
Mr.  Steele  purchased  at  the  government  sale,  the  })resent  town 
site  of  St.  Anthony,  and  ]\lr.  Bottineau  the  tract  known  as 
Bottineau's  addition.  The  rights  of  the  original  claimants 
were  generally  respected  at  the  sale,  no  attempts  being  made 
to  bid  upon  the  first  settlers;  although  but  little  strictness  was 
observed  in  actually  living  on  the  claims. 

From  the  year  1849  may  be  dated  the  real  commencement 
of  the  growth  of  St.  Anthony.  Several  prominent  citizens 
settled  here  during  that  year.  Among  whom  may  bo  named 
Col.  Stevens,  Messrs.  Marshall,  S^oarns,  Northup,  Pennon,  Wil- 
son, Xorth,  M'Alpin,  Parnham,  Iloyt,  and  others,  the  most  of 
■whom  commenced  building.  Among  the  Prench  were  Messrs. 
Cloutier,  Poncin,  Crepau,  Iluot,  Boutin,  and  some  others,  \\  hose 
names  we  have  not  learned. 

A  few  of  these  were  from  lied  river,  but  the  greater  part  of 
the  Prench  of  St.  Anthony  and  vicinity  are  natives  of  Canada. 
The  same  year,  1849,  the  St.  Charles  was  built  by  j\Ir.  Ajisou 
Northup.  Two  other  saws  were  erected  the  same  yeai'.  In 
IS'jO  a  great  freshet  occurred  on  tlio  i\Iississippi,  by  which  '.hree 
millions  of  feet  of  logs  were  carried  over  the  dam,  ami  proved 
a  total  loss,  amounting  to  at  least  tw(dve  thousand  dollars.  In 
the  winter  of  1S50-'51  ihe  dam  was  raised  several  feet,  so 
that  it  would  now  seem   impossible  for  such  an  accident  ao-ain 


ST.    ANTHONY. 


377 


to  occur.  Tim  cost  of  this  dam  av.is  thirty  tlionsaiul  flollnrs. 
In  1S49  Jfr.  Steele  sold  one  undivided  half  of  his  interest 
in  the  i)ropcrty  of  8t.  Anthony  to  Arnold  W.  Taylor,  of  Boh- 
ton,  for  twenty  thousand  dollars.  In  January  of  1852  Mr. 
Taylor  sold  to  Mr.  Steele  his  interest  in  the  property  for  twen- 
ty-live  thousand  dollars.  Litigation  arose  out  of  Taylor's  op- 
erations  in  the  property,  which  is  not  yet  fully  settled. 

The  adniirable  situation  of  St.  Anthony  for  manufacturing 
purposes,  is  the  first  idea  that  strikes  the  n.     \  as  one  sur'.eys 
its  location.     Situated  on  the  great  "father  of  waters,"  whose 
Fupply  never  fails,  the  banks  (above  the  cataract)  almost  level 
with  the  water,  a  descent  of  some  sixty  feet  within  a  mile,  the 
channel  conveniently  divided  by  islands,  easy  of  access,  and 
affording  unequalled  facilities  for  the  economical  use  of  the 
water  power,  both  banks  being  capable  of  being  sluiced  for  a 
mill,  and  the  water  used  to  an  unlimited  extent,  abundance  of 
stone  at  hand  suitable  for  the  erection  of  manufacturing  edi- 
fices—all these  form  a  combination  of  advantages  seldom  found 
in  one  locality.     Add  to  this,  that  it  is  at  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  Mississippi,  surrounded  by  an  agricultural  district, 
Avhich  is  excelled  by  none  in  the  Union,  which  produces  in 
rich  luxuriance  all  the  cereals ;  is  admirably  adapted  to  fruit, 
and  unsurpassed  for  grazing,  and  you  have  all  the  elements 
to  constitute  a  great  manufacturing  metropolis.     This,  it  must 
inevitably    become.      Ten  saws    (including  two  on  the  west 
side),  a  grist  mill,  lath  and  shingle  machine,  planing  machine, 
large  machine  shop,  all  in  active  operation,  comprise  the  prin- 
cipal water-power  improA-ements  at  St.  Anthony. 

The  location  of  St.  Anthony  is  also  exceedingly  favorable  for 
controlling  a  large  amount  of  county  trade.  The  county  of 
Hennepin,  and  all  the  north  part  of  Ramsey  and  Benton 
counties  are  natural  auxiliaries  and  tributaries  of  this  place. 
The  present  extent  of  the  lumber  business  is  shown  by  the 
fact  that  eight  saws  are  now  in  constant  operation,  located  on 
the  dam  leading  from  the  main  shore  to  Nicollet  island.  An 
aperture  is  left  in  the  dam  for  each  saw,  amounting  to  sixteen 
in  all,  which  is  the  number  the  dam  is  designed  to  accommo- 
date.    Ten  millions  of  feet  of  logs  can  be  packed  in  the  dam. 


37S 


SUPPLiaiKNT. 


TI<e  capacity  of  tlie  ciglit  saws,  is  about  fifty  tlionsand  feet 
pel-  (lay.  H.  T.  Welles  &  Co.  run  seven  saws,  ami  have  about 
eighty  thousand  dollars  capital  invested  in  the  business. 

There  is  a  lath  and  shingle  machine  connected  Avith  these 
mills.  Twenty  thousand  laths  are  manufactured  daily,  or  six- 
and-a-half  millions  per  annum.  Four-and-a-half  millions  of 
shingles  are  cut  yearly.  Over  one  hundred  men  arc  employed 
in  the  dift'erent  dc])artnients  of  this  large  establishment. 

Messrs.  Farnham  and  Stimpson  run  one  saw  —  capital  invest- 
ed six  thousand  dollars. 

About  three  fourths  of  the  lumber  here  manufactured  is  sent 
out  of  the  territory  to  market.  The  average  price  of  lumber 
here  is  ten  dollars  and  a  half  per  thousand. 

This  statement  does  not  show  the  whole  amount  of  cajdtal 
invested  in  the  lumber  business  in  St.  Anthony.  Fifteen  teams 
are  sent  into  the  pineries  from  this  point,  at  an  average  expense 
of  five  thousand  dollars  per  team,  including  supplies,  stock, 
lab(n',  (fee.  This  gives  an  aggregate  of  seventy-five  thousand 
dollars,  in  addition  to  the  above.  Probably  the  whole  amount 
invested  would  be  over,  rather  than  under  one  hundred  and 
fifty-five  thousand  dollars. 

The  average  annual  loss  of  lumber  from  various  causes  can 
not  fall  short  of  fifteen  thousand  dollars.  This  is  a  large  item 
in  a  comparatively  limited  business,  and  would  all  be  saved  by 
manufacturing  the  lumber  here,  instead  of  sending  it  below  in 
the  rough.  An  increase  of  mills  at  this  point  would  prove  a 
most  profitable  investment,  and  is  urgently  demanded. 

Hotels. — St.  Charles  Hotel :  M.  W.  Keith  proprietor.  Loca- 
ted 1863.  Capital  invested  ten  thousand  dollars.  The  St. 
Charles  was  biiilt  in  1849.  A  large  addition  Avas  built  the  last 
sc'.'json.  Since  Mr.  Keith  leased  the  house,  extensive  altera- 
tions have  been  made,  so  that  this  well-known  hotel  is  now 
surpassed  by  none  in  the  territory,  for  taste,  comfort  and  con- 
venience. The  St.  Anthony  House  is  kept  by  Mr,  West,  and 
the  Temperance  House  by  Mr.  Ross. 

Clmrclies. — There  are  six  organized  churches  in  St.  Anthony, 
as  follows  :  First  Congregational,  Rev.  0.  Seccombe.  Epis- 
copal, Rev.  Mr.  Chamberlain.     Baptist,  Rev.  L.  Palmer.     Free 


%.  i 


ST.    ANTHONY. 


379 


Will  Baptist,  Rev.  0.  G.  Ames.  Catholic,  Rev.  Mr.  Ledon. 
Methodist,  Rev.  Mr.  Collins.  Universalist,  Rev.  E.  A.  Hods- 
don. 

University  and  Schools.— An  account  of  the  university,  lo- 
cated at  St.  Anthony,  will  be  found  on  page  153.  There  are 
two  district  schools  in  St.  Anthony  fully  attended.  A  male 
and  female  teacher  are  employed  in  District  No.  5,  Mr.  Iloag 
having  charge  of  the  school..  The  number  of  scholars  n  at- 
tendance  is  one  hundred  and  ten.  The  number  in  the  upper 
district  is  somewhat  less. 

There  are  two  schools  where  both  French  and  English  are 
taught,  and  instruction  in  all  the  different  branches  given  in 
both  languages.  Rev.  Mr.  Ledon,  a  native  of  France,  has 
charge  of  one,  and  the  Sisters  of  Charity  the  other,  both  in 
Upper  Town, 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Chamberlain  and  Mrs.  Z.  E.  B.  Nash  have 
each  a  select  school,  where  pupils  enjoy  tlie  benefits  of  tiie 
most  competent  instructors,  and  the  opportunity  of  acquiring 
all  the  accomplishments  taught  in  the  best  Eastern  schools.  It 
may  be  safely  stated,  that  no  village  in  the  Western  States 
affords  superior  educational  advantages  to  St.  Anthony. 

Associations. — Cataract  Lotlge  (Masonic)  was  opened  Febru- 
ary 14th,  1852.     The  order  here  is  in  a  fioijrishing  condition. 

The  John  G.  Potts  Lodge  No.  3, 1.  O.  of  O.  F.  was  installed 
May  29th,  1851.  The  number  of  contributing  members  is 
forty-eight. 

Libraries.  — \  good  village  library  was  established  in  1850, 
which  has  been  increased  by  subsequent  additions,  and  now 
contains  a  well-selected  assortment  of  English  and  American 
autliors.  The  university  has,  also,  the  nucleus  of  a  valuable 
library. 

Chcevcys  Ohservatonj.—\Y.  A.  Cheever,  Esq.,  has  erected  in 
St.  Anthony  city  a  tower  or  observatory,  which  is  a  most  con- 
spicuous object,  for  a  great  distance  in  every  direction.  The 
beml  in  the  river  brings  this  tower  directly  opposite  the  face 
of  the  falls,  at  about  half  a  mile  distant,  giving  an  unsur- 
passod  view  of  tlie  rapids  and  cataract,  and  an  immense  extent 
of  country  in  every  direction,  forming  one  of  the  most  varied, 


i  ;l 


380 


SUPPLKMKNT. 


cliarming  and  extensive  landscapes  in  Minnesota.  Tlie  towet 
is  ninety  feet  in  lieiglit.  Tlie  lower  part  of  the  tower,  second 
story,  will  be  opened  as  an  ice  cream  and  refreslinient  saloon, 
this  season,  thns  adding  an  increased  attraction  to  strangers, 
and  a  pleasant  place  of  resort  for  all. 

Stcamhoats. — The  steamboat  Gov.  Ramsey  was  built  at  St. 
Anthony  in  the  winter  of  1849-'50,  under  the  superintendence 
of  Capt.  Rollins.  She  is  principally  owned  in  St.  Anthony, 
about  one  quarter  being  held  by  parties  not  residing  in  the 
territory.  She  has  been  run  four  seasons  between  St.  Anthony  ' 
and  Sauk  Rapids,  nearly  one  hundred  miles  above  St.  Anthony. 
She  cost  ten  thousand  dollars. 

No  regular  line  of  steamboats  has  yet  been  established  be- 
tween St.  Anthony  and  parts  below,  lioats  from  Galena  or 
St.  Louis  have,  however,  run  to  Cheever's  landing  every  season 
since  1849. 

Boats  will  also  run  regularly  between  St.  Anthony  and  Man- 
kato  ci^y,  and  other  places  on  the  Minnesota,  this  season,  as 
arrangements  have  been  completed  to  that  eifcct. 

Ferries. — Three  ferry  charters  have  been  granted  by  the 
Legislature  to  St.  Anthony.     One  to  F.  Steele,  February  19th, 

1851,  for  ten  years.  One  to  W.  A.  Cheever,  for  ten  years, 
and  one  to  E.  Case,  for  six  years  from  the  6th  day  of  March, 

1852.  These  are  all  within  about  a  mile  and  a  half  of  each 
other. 

General  Summary. — The  falls  of  St.  Anthony  are  known 
almost  as  extensively  by  name  as  those  of  Niagara,  although 
of  course  they  can  not  compare  with  that  cataract  in  sublimity 
and  grandeur.  The  perpendicular  fall  of  the  highest  point  is 
twenty  feet.  The  whole  fall  within  a  mile  from  the  head  of 
the  rapids  is  near  sixty  feet.  A  soft  sandstone  forms  the  stra- 
ta at  the  bottom  of  the  cataract.  The  town  of  St.  Anthony  is 
situated  on  and  at  the  foot  of  an  irregular  and  beautiful  bluff. 
This  approaches  and  recedes  from  the  river,  at  distances  vary- 
ing from  one  hundred  to  eight  huiulred  feet.  It  rises  abruptly 
at  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  to  the  height  of  about  thirty 
feet,  gradually  ascending,  until  it  reaches  its  highest  point 
near  the  centre  of  the  village,  where  the  university  is  located; 


ST.    ANTIIUJVV. 


381 


)ii 


wluMice  it  grndi.ally  descends  until  lost  in  the  generul  rise  of 
ground  in  tiie  nj)per  town. 

Main  street,  wliich  is  the  principal  business  street,  lies  at  the 
foot  of  this  bluff  ou  the  bank  of  the  river,  running  parallel 

MM  '*■  '^''"'  "'''^'  ^'"'''^^^^  «t»"««t«'  "'^"led  First,  Second, 
Ilmd,  &c.,  he  on  the  bluff,  and  the  level  prairie  extending  a 
nnle  or  more  back  from  the  river. 

From  the  most  accurate  estimate  which  we  are  able  to  make, 
we  fix  the  number  of  houses  in  St.  Anthony  at  three  hundred 
and  seventy-five,  and  the  population  at  two  thousand  live  hun- 
dred. The  village  not  having  been  incori,orated,  its  precise 
limits  are  not  fixed,  but  the  above  estimate  is  intended  to  an- 
ply  to  the  vilhage  and  its  immediate  suburbs. 

The  amount  of  caj.ital  employed  in  the  lumbering  businesf 
at  this  point  is  as  before  stated,  one  hundred  and  iifiy-fiv 
thousand  dollars.  The  amount  invested  in  the  me.cMutil 
business  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  dolhirs.  At  a 
fair  estimate,  the  balance  can  not  be  less  than  fifty-five  thou- 
sand, making  the  whole  cajjital  invested  in  business  in  St. 
Anthony  three  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  dolhars. 

Annexed  is  a  table  showing,  in  condensed  form,  the  difierent 
kinds  of  business  carried  on,  and  the  number  of  establishments 
in  each. 


s 

e 

le 


Saw  Mills 9 

LaUi  and  Shingle  Machines 1 

Giist  Mill 1 

Cabinet  ami  Cliair  Makers 2 

Wheelwrighls ] 

Ciiriiciiters ]2 

Dry  Goods 2 

Dry  Goods  and  Groceries 8 

CJi'ocei'ies  and  Provisions 5 

Carrinire  Faeforios 2 

Sltigh  Fact ory 1 

Plough  Factoiy .*   1 

Bakery , j 

Storage  Houses 2 

Gluirclu'S 7 

Soeielies 2 

Drug  .Stores 2 

Planing  Machines 2 

Painters .,.,,  =  .,..=.....,   3 

Lnniber  Yards 2 

Brick  Yard 1 


Stone  and  Hardware 2 

Milliners g 

Ijookstore ' '   j 

Lawyers '  _  ]  j 

Newspapers 2 

Piiysicians 5 

Dagnerreotypists 2 

Blacksmiths 2 

.Sa,«h  and  Dour  Factories ....   3 

Tailors '  *  9 

Billiard  Saloon j 

Bowling  Saloon [[]   j 

Macliine   Shop '][   j 

Libraries 

Reading  Room 

Shoemakers 

Harness  ALiker 


•  ••••< 


2 
1 
8 
1 


?fumhfir  nf  Ifouses 800 

Population 4500 

Capitalin  Business $1,000,000 


H'<. 


082 


SUPPLEMENT, 


J 


mm 


The  unrivalled  natural  situation  of  St.  Anthony  eloarly  indicates 
that  it  must  become  the  great  manufacturing  city  and  emporium  of 
the  Northwest.  Its  vast  resources  have  scarcely,  as  yet,  begun  to 
be  developed.  The  splendid  site  of  Minneopolis,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  and  its  great  water-power,  have  given  it  a  most 
rapid  growth,  since  titles  have  been  secured.  The  two  places  will 
form  a  unit,  and,  freed  from  the  embarrassment  under  which  they 
have  heretofore  labored,  will  advance  with  a  rapidity  unequalled  in 
any  western  city. 

Above  St.  Anthony,  on  the  upper  Mississippi,  we  hare  jManomin, 
Anoka,  Itasca,  Northwood,  Elk  River,  Sauk  Eapids,  Watab,  Swan 
lliver.  Belle  Prairie,  Crow  Wing,  Gull  Lake  and  Sandy  Lake. 

Manomin  is  seven  miles  north  of  St.  Anthony,  at  the  mouth  of 
Rice  Creek,  and  has  two  saws,  capable  of  cutting  two  millions  of 
feet  of  lumber  annually.  Anoka,  eighteen  miles  north  of  St. 
Anthony,  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Rum  river,  and  is 
the  outlet  for  the  extensive  pineries  on  the  head  waters  of  that 
stream.  With  its  noble  water-power,  and  the  great  improvement 
which  is  now  being  made  of  it,  its  advantageous  town  site  and  the 
well  known  enterprise  of  its  proprietors,  it  bids  fair  to  become 
prominent  as  a  trading  and  manufacturing  town.  The  surrounding 
country,  and  especially  that  portion  of  the  Sioux  purchase  which 
lies  along  the  Mississippi  opposite,  affords  the  finest  home  market 
for  its  manufactures  that  could  be  desired. 

Itasca  lies  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  twenty-five  miles 
north  of  St.  Anthony,  and  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Crow  river. 
It  enjoys  at  present  a  large  Indian  trade. 

Sauk  Rapids,  one  hundred  miles  northwest  of  St.  Anthony,  and 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Sauk  river,  was  the  county  scat  of  Benton 
county,  and  contains  a  11.  S.  Land  Office.  For  a  full  description 
of  the  river  country  on  the  upper  Mississippi,  see  pages  43  to  49, 
in  this  work. 


HENNEPIN    COUNTY. 


383 


NOTICE  OF  IIEXiNEPIX  COUNTY  AND  LAKE  MIXNETONKA. 

Lake  Minnetonka  is  sitiuitcd  due  west  of  St.  Aiitliony,  in 
latitude  45,  and  empties  in  tlio  JHissiHsi])pi  river,  throuj^h  an 
outlet  known  as  Little  Falls  Creek.  The  fact  can  not  be  de- 
nied  that  the  shores  of  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water  ofier  more 
inducements  to  the  immigrant  than  most  any  otlier  part  of  the 
territory.  Hennepin  county  at  large  may  be  justly  considered 
^the  empire  county  for  agricultural  purpcrses.  "it  is  bounded  on 
\hree  sides  by  navigable  rivers;  the  centre  and  interior  are 
filled  with  fine  lakes,  the  largest  of  which  is  Minnetonka. 
They  abound  in  fish  and  the  oak  openings  are  full  of  deer  and 
other  game.  The  numerous  bodies  of  water  are  asylums  for 
wild  geese  and  ducks.  Moore's  prairie  and  the  Miles  neigh- 
borhood, opposite  lium  river,  present  fine  inducements  lo  those 
who  wisli  to  seek  new  homes. 

The  soil  is  rich  and  productive.  More  than  forty  bushels  of 
winter  wheat  hfvs  been  raised  to  the  acre  during  the  past  sea- 
son, and  wheat  will  average  more  than  twenty-five  bushels  to 
the  acre  throughout  the  county.  Corn,  oats,  potatoes,  .-ind 
vegetables  of  all  kinds,  are  cultivated  with  great  success.  The 
surface  of  the  land  is  gently  rolling. 

Among  other  inducements  — this  county  has  the  advan- 
tage of  being  well  timbered.  AVhite,  black,  and  burr  onk, 
hickory,  sugu-  and  soft  maple,  beech,  elm  of  all  the  different 
varieties,  bass  wood,  black  and  white  walnut,  hackberry,  qua- 
king-asp, black  cherry,  jtoplar,  black  and  white  ash,  and  level 
wood,  can  be  found  in  large  (|uantities,  with  just  enough  prai- 
rie land  to  make  good  farms. 

Cold  springs  of  water  are  numerous.  Beds  of  excellent  clay 
lia\e  been  discovered,  which  will,  in  a  short  time  be  converted 
into  brick-yards.  The  water  in  the  interim-  of  the  county  is 
soft;  there  being  no  lime  rock  except  on  the  Mississi])pi  and 
Minnesota  rivers.  Granite  boulders  and  primitive  sand  rock 
can  be  found  in  sufficient  quantities  for  building  jiurposes. 
I'amarac  swamps  are  numerous  enough  to  furnish  capital  tim- 
ber for  frames  and  rails.     There  can  be  as  mucli  sugar  made 


k^ifi 


1'.. 
m 


384 


SUPPLEMENT. 


in  tlic  county  as  would  be  consumed,  Tlioro  are  a  number  of 
excellent  schools  in  this  county,  and  churches  of  ev?ry  de- 
nomination are  already  formed.  This  town,  with  Minneapolis, 
is  the  county  seat.  Excelsior,  Bloomington,  and  the  Miles 
neighborhood,  are  the  most  thickly  settled  parts. 


THE  O-WO'-TAN-NA  RIVER. 

I  AM  indebted  to  William  W.  Finch,  M.  D.,  of  St.  Paul,  for  the 
following  description  of  a  tract  of  country,  of  which  very  little 
has  hitherto  been  known. 

Where  is  that?  says  the  reader.  Wait  a  moment,  and  I  will 
tell  you.  Plr^e  your  pencil  on  the  north  line  of  Iowa,  due 
south  of  St.  Paul,  and  draw  a  line  north  to  the  Cannon  river,  four 
miles  east  of  Lake  Titomka;  you  will  mark  the  course  of 
the  Owotanna  from  its  source  to  its  junction  with  the  Can- 
non, of  Avhich  it  is  the  south  fork.  According  to  the  obser- 
vations of  Nicollet,  made  at  the  east  end  of  Lake  Titonka, 
the  mouth  of  this  stream  is  about  forty  five  miles  south  of 
St.  Paul,  and  distant  from  Hastings,  the  nearest  landing  on  the 
Mississippi,  about  thirty-two  miles.  It  is  a  clear,  rapid  stream, 
from  one  to  four  feet  deep,  and  from  ten  to  fifteen  yards  wide ; 
though  it  is  really  very  crooked,  winding  tliiough  the  prairie 
like  a  serpent,  yet,  its  curves  are  so  nearly  in  a  right  line, 
and  its  general  course  so  straight,  as  to  give  it  its  Dacota 
name,  Wa/qm  Owotanna,  or  Straight  river.  That  such  a  stream 
should  escape  the  notice  of  explorers  is  really  strange ;  for,  it 
is  larger  than  the  Vermillion,  and  fifty  or  sixty  miles  in  length, 
yet  up  to  this  date  there  is  not  even  a  scratch  on  any  map  of 
Minnesota,  denoting  its  whereabouts.  Our  maps  represent  the 
branches  of  the  lied  Cedar,  Upper  Iowa,  Root,  and  Blue  Earth 
rivers  as  occupying  the  country  which  is  actually  occupied  by 
llie  Owotanna  and  its  branches;  many  who  have  been  on  this 
stieam,  have,  upou  consulting  their  maps,  supposed  themselves 
upon  some  one  of  the  above  rivers.  Several  families,  during 
the  jiast  siinimer,  in  passing  from  Jowa  to  Mankato,  were  de- 
ceived in  this  wav,  Juid  r'ollowcd  the  Owotanna  nearlv  its  whole 


TIIK    uWuTANXA    lilVKi;. 


'is5 


it 


lengtli,  supposing  it  was  a  branch  of  the  Bhie  Earth  river      A 
correct  knowledge  of  this  section  of  our  territory  is  important, 
for  several  reasons.      First,  the  waters  of  the  Owotanna.  in' 
connection  with  the  Cannon,  have  cut  through  tlie  ridges  of 
the  rolling  prairie,^  a  natural  and  easy  grade  for  a  railroad, 
from  the  Iowa  line'to  witliln  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  of  St! 
Paul ;  and  this  natural  path  for  the  iron  horse  is  exactly  in  the 
right  place,  viz.:  leading  from  the  valleys  of  the  .Tied  Cedar, 
lurkey  and  upper  Iowa  rivers,  direct  to-ard  St.  Paul,  and 
so  on  to  the  head  of  Lake  Superior.     Again,  the  valley  of  the 
Owotanna  is  the  finest  agricultural  region  in  the  great  West. 
Opposite  Its  mouth,  and  across  the  Cannon,  is  the  Big  Woods 
extending  north  and  west,  thirty-five  or  forty  miles,  to  the' 
Minnesota  river:  and  a  branch  of  these  same  woods,  turning 
south,  extends  up  the  east  side  of   the  Owatanna,  nearly  or 
quite  to  the  Iowa  line.     This  strip  of  timber  is  from  one  to  five 
miles  wide,  and  is  made  up  of  maple,  ash,  oak,  elm,  basswood, 
white  and  black  Avalnut,  hickory  and  poplar 

STEELE  COUNTY. 

Was  laid  off  in  the  winter  of  1854-55,  and  organised  by  the 
appointment  of  officers  by  the  Governor  in  July  following      The 
county  seat  was  established  by  the  Legislature  at  Owatonia     Popu- 
lation of  the  County  is  about  2000.     Owatonia,  Wilton,  Franklin 
and  Medford  are  flourishing  villages  and  are  all  progressing  finely  ' 
Ihe  first  settlement  in  this  county  was  made  in  January,  1854 
I  he  inhabitants  are  mostly  of  eastern  origin.     Owatonia  is  on  the 
Straight  river  and  Wilton  on  the  Le  Sener.    County  polls  500  vote.' 
Mazeppa  is  on  the  north  branch  of  the  Zombro,  twenty  mile<i 
south  of  Red  Wing,  and  twenty-two  miles  north  of  Rochester  on 
the  stage  road  from  Dubuque  to  St.  Paul.     One  ye.r  ago  the  first 
settler  made  his  claim  and  erected  his  log  cabin;  now  there  are  IGO 
families  located  there.     The  place  contains  a  saw  and  grist  mill 
stores,  post-office,  and  all  the  crafts  so  necessary  to  the  comfort  and 
welfare  of  a  new  settlement.     Basswood,  cotton  wood,  elm,  oak 
ash   hickory,  poplar  and  black  walnut,  are  among  the  varietv  of 
timber  growing  on  the  streams,  while  of  the  quality  of  the  soifit  is 

17 


•ii\ 


386 


SUITLEMENT. 


hardly  necessary  to  speak  —  for  fertility  and  variety  it  cannot  be 
surpassed  in  Minnesota,  and  presents  ioduccments  to  tho  industrious 
and  enterprising  settler  which  few  can  pass  by. 


INTERESTING  STATISTICS  — AN  EXHIBIT  OF  THE  SALES  OP 
PUBLIC  LANDS  IN  MINNESOTA  SINCE  1848— PREl-EMPTIONS— 
LAND  SPECULATORS  — LAND  SUBJECT  TO  ENTRY  — INDUCE- 
MENTS TO  SETTLE  IN  THE  DIFFERENT  LAND  DISTRICTS. 

We  present  a  series  of  carefully-prepared  tabular  statements  in 
reference  to  tho  sales  of  public  lands  in  Minnesota  since  1848. 
Tho  figures  arc  derived  from  oflBcial  sources,  and  may  be  relied  upon 
as  strictly  correct. 


I 


i«t; 


ill-' 


SALES  OF  PUBLIC  LANDS. 

The  first  sale  of  public  lands  within  the  limits  of  the  present 
organised  Territory  of  Minnesota,  was  made  before  tho  passage  of 
the  law  organising  our  Territory.  By  a  proclamation  of  the  l*resi- 
dont,  in  1848,  twenty-seven  townships  and  fractional  townships, 
containing  436,737  acres  of  land,  lying  in  Wisconsin — now  Minne- 
sota Territory,  were  placed  in  market.  The  first  sale  came  oflF  on 
the  14th  of  August,  1848,  at  the  land  oflSce  at  the  Falls  of  the  St. 
Croix,  in  the  State  of  Wisconsin.  But  3326  acres  were  disposed 
of,  at  the  minimum  price  of  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per 
acre.  At  this  ofiice,  the  town-sites  of  St.  Paul,  St.  Anthony,  and 
Stillwater,  were  entered  by  the  claimants,  and  at  the  rate  above- 
mentioned.  Their  value  at  present  can  only  bo  computed  by 
millions  of  dollars. 

The  sales  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Croix,  during  the  year  1848, 
amounted  to  15,381  acres. 

A  friend  who  was  present  at  the  land  sales  at  the  Falls  of  the 
St.  Croix,  in  1848,  sends  us  the  following  description  of  the 
occurrences  there  passing  at  that  time  : — 

The  Land  OiEce  for  the  Chippewa  Land  District  was  opened  by 
General  Samuel  Leech,  Receiver,  and  Colonel  C.  S.  Whitney, 
Remstur,  at  the  Falls  of  tho  f^t.  nrniY.  in  flio  firaf  norf  nf  A.io..,c.f 
1847.  The  first  sale  in  tuis  District  commenced  on,  or  about  the 
15th  day  of  August,  1848,  and  continued  for  two  weeks.     The 


INTERESTING   8TATI8TIC8. 


887 


1848, 


second  sale  commenced  on,  or  about  the  15th  day  of  September,  of 
the  same  year,  and  also  continued  for  two  weels.  At  this  latter 
Bale,  the  first  lands  were  disposed  of,  that  are  now  comprised  within 
the  limits  of  ^linnesota,  including  the  towns  of  St.  Paul,  St. 
Anthony,  and  Stillwater.  At  this  period,  there  wco  very  few 
white  settlers  within  what  is  now  tho  Territory  of  Minnesota;  and 
they  were  principally  located  within,  and  immediately  surrounding 
the  above  named  towns.  For  tho  better  accommodation  of  tho 
people  — tho  conveniences  of  travel  being  very  poor  — tho  Land 
officers  gave  timely  public  notice,  of  the  exact  day  upon  which  cer- 
tain townships  would  bo  oflFered  for  sale  j  so  that  at  no  one  time 
were  there  more  than  from  forty  to  fifty  persons  present.  There 
were  no  "speculators"  in  attendance  at  this  sale;  which  accounts 
for  the  fact  that  there  was  but  one  contra  bid  durin;^  the  whole  sale, 
and  that  was  between  two  settlers,  who  reside  somewhere  in  tho 
neighborhood  of  Cottage  Grove,  in  Washington  County.  It  seems, 
that,  after  having  secured  their  respective  claims,  they  could  not 
agree  upon  which  should  have  a  certain  eighty  acre  tract,  composed 
of  timber  land  lying  adjacent  to  each.  I  believe  that  the  successful 
bidder  got  it  at  about  ten  cents  abo-e  the  minimum  price  per  acre. 

The  most  exciting  time  during  this  sale,  at  which  there  wcro 
a  great  number  of  people  present,  was  on  the  day  and  the  day 
before  that  on  which  the  town-site  of  St.  Paul  was  offered  for  sale. 
The  good  people  of  this  vicinity  were  very  fearful  that  the  sale 
would  be  infested  with  a  hungry  set  of  speculators,  as  has  too  often 
happened  at  land  sales  in  the  west,  ready  with  their  gold,  to  jump 
at  every  chance  that  presented  itself,  and  bid  over  the  actual  settler. 
To  guard  against  this  emergency,  it  was  understood  beforehand  that 
the  Hon.  H.  H.  Sibley  should  bid  in  the  town-site  of  St.  Paul,  and 
the  claims  of  such  Canadians  as  did  not  understand  English  sufli- 
ciently  to  do  so  for  themselves;  and  to  aid  and  assist  him  in  this 
mission,  a  large  and  well-armed  force,  composed  principally  of 
Canadian  Frenchmen,  were  present  at  the  sale.  Their  fears,  how- 
ever,  were  not  realized,  and  they  were  permitted  to  purchase  their 
lands  without  molestation. 

From  the  opening  of  the  Land  Office  up  to  the  first  of  October 
following,  there  were  131  certificates  granted  for  private  entries  and 
purchases  at  the  public  sales.  Thirty-eight  certificates  for  locations 
made  by  Military  Land  Warrants;  twenty-one  '^  .claratory  state- 
ments filed  on  lands  subject  to  private  entry,  and  thirteen  state- 
ments filed  on  lands  which  had  not  yet  been  offered  for  sale. 


388 


8UPPr,EMKNT 


In  lM4n,  after  much  delay  and  difficulty,  tho  Land  Office  at  tlio 
Falls  of  St.  Croix,  was  removed  to  Stillwater.  A  remonstrance 
Ji^'uinst  this  removal  was  made  by  tho  members  of  tho  Wisconsin 
Legislature;  tlieir  objections,  however,  were  overcome  by  the 
C8tabli.shmcut  of  an  additional  land  district  in  Wisconsin. 

With  those  introductory  remarks,  wo  give  the  business  trans- 
actions of  the  different  Lmnd  Offices  in  the  Territory,  since  their 
establishment. 


m 


Slllhcutcr  Land  District.— 'Removed  from  Falls  of  St.  Croix  to 
Stillwater,  in  June,  1849.  This  district  and  tho  Sauk  llapids  dis- 
trict, embrace  all  tho  ^  nds  in  Minnesota  oast  of  the  Mississippi 
river.  The  land  officers  are  William  Holcomb,  Keceiver,  and  T. 
M.  Fullerton,  Ilegisttr.  All  tho  sales  of  pu' 'ic  lands  made  in  this 
district  are  included  in  the  following  statements  : 


Tho  your 
of  ftalo. 


Whole  No.  of  Acres  oovM  with                   Am't  rocoiyod 

ucressold.  Land  War'nte.                           in  cawh. 

;tJ5  15,38138  7,426  51   $0,943  51 

J840  16,785  91  14,742  13  2,554  72 

J?50  ^«'I?':?10  32,950  09  4.698  76 

lool     •■••I 

1852  

1853  

1854  


34,916  53  20,862  64  17,553  61 

32,893  28  28,751  82  5,051  80 

72,079  46  36,672  28  44,383  97 

191,944  86  17,222  71  218,296  44 

1855  to  Dec 156,413  80  43,984  85  139  23()  8'> 

Estimated  Decern...     25,000  00  12,500  00..  15'6"6  (X) 


Totals 581,123  32 


215,013  03 


$457,344  03 


The  operations  of  the  office  for  the  year  1855,  are  of  sufficient 
interest  to  give  the  sales  each  month  : 


Sales  of  1855. 

Jaiiuu  \ 

FehriA      ,       

March 

April 

Ma^r 

June 

July 

August 

September  

<^)ctober 

November  

December,  estimat'd. 


Whole  No.  of 
acres  sold. 

9,297  07  . 
f/62  18  , 
5,976  88 


Acres  cov'd  with  Am't  rcoclvod 

Land  War'nt.s.  in  ca.tt\y. 

1,550  09  $0,683  72 

760  00  9.627  73 

959  88  6,270  64 

14,150  35  1,960  00  15,237  94 

17,678  15  2,033  72  19,555  54 

15,505  94  2,435  43  16,338  14 

17,026  59  3,675  19  16,639 '>5 

14,874  24  7,709  02  8.956  52 

12,824  94  4,838  17  9,983  46 

13,379  56  4.314  33  11,33154 

2«,238  00  13,740  02  15,612  35 

25,000  00  12,500  00  16,625  00 


Totals 180,413  80 


56,484  85 


.$154,861  83 


INTERESTlNa   8TATIHTIC8. 


889 


Of  this  amount,  m  November,  2000  acres  wore  sold  at  public 
sale.  No  lands  have  ever  been  sold  in  the  .li.sirict  for  a  price  ex- 
ceeding «l-25  per  acre,  except  80  acres,  which  brought  8150  per 
acre.  In  addition  to  the  above,  tho  Ilogents  of  the  University  of 
Minnesota,  entered  in  this  district  during  1855,  in  pursuance  of  the 
act  ot  Congress  granting  lands  to  that  institution,  11,7-14  acres 
mostly  pine  la;  la.  ' 


-n 


I 


Sauk  Rapids  Ixind  Dutn'ct.-Tho  Land  Office  at  Sauk  l^apids 
was  opened  on  tho  4th  day  of  August,  180.'},  William  Henry  Wood 
lleceiver,  and  Jeremiah  Russell,  Register. 

The  Sauk  Rapids  and  Stillwater  districts  comprise  all  the  lands 
cast  of  the  Mississippi  in  Minnesota,  but  by  the  provisions  of  tho 
act  of  18o4,  creating  new  land  distri-^  ,  in  Minnesota,  the  Suuk 
Rapids  district  was  extended  west  of  the  Mississippi,  taking  in  five 
townships  fronting  on  tho  river,  and  running  west  to  tho  "Drift 
Wood  and  tho  Red  River  of  the  North.  Tho  following  statement 
includes  a  I  lands  sold  at  the  Sauk  Rapids  office  since  it  was 
opened  in  1853  : 


Tho  year 
of  sale. 

1853  ... 

1854  ... 

1855  ... 


Whole  No  of  Acres  cotM  with  Am't  rccplved 

acres  sol.!.  Laud  W.ir'nts.  in  c^h 

J't^i^i  l.«10  00  $2,943  50 

27.512  79  2,9G0  00  30,090  98 

H499  60  19,000  00  50,092  15 


Totale 90,007  09 


24,200  00 


$00,320  63 


The  sales  for  1855,  are  given  by  months  in  the  following  table  : 


Sales  of  1885. 


Acres  cov'd  with 
Laud  W^'nts. 


Am't  rpcoivcd 
in  cash. 


Whole  No.  of 
acres  sold. 

f'^^^ary 423  60  ggo^)  37 

■'^'T'^y 908  15  IGO  935  18 

Wa«'ch 283  49  ?S  Jfi 

Ap-'i 1,387  29 ICO ::;;:;:;:;;:  1534?? 

f^y 3,120  70  200  3  650  87 

J^-- 5,89196  480  6  7  4  95 

i»'y-V ' 6,474  00  520  ?;442  50 

^"f^V 3,80000  3,000  25000 

^^P^.^^^b^"^ 1,724  92.... 1,040  856  15 

^''^^'l 3,41246  400  3,?r5  67 

!^°^«°>Je^ 21,50542  2,640  24  un  .?« 

^^^^^^^y: 15,567  61 10,400 ..;  T'mli 


Totals 64,499  60 


19,600 


$56,692  15 


;pl 


300 


SUPPLKMKNT. 


The  KcgcMits  of  the  University  of  Minnesota  Lave  located  in  this 
district  1020  acres.  Of  the  j^ales  of  1855,  9834  acres  were  sold  in 
November,  at  public  sale.  Of  this  amo  nt,  344  acres  were  sold 
for  more  than  $il-25  per  acre,  the  hiatiest  price  paid  fur  any. 
being  ,%  50.  ^ 

Hoot  River  Distrkt.—ThQ  office  of  this  laud  district  is  located 
nt  JJrownsvillo,  Houston  county,  tue  southeastern  county  of  the 
Territory.  The  Land  Officers  are  John  II.  M'Kenny,  Ilcceiver, 
and  Major  Eennet,  Kegister.  The  office  was  established  by  the 
law  of  Congress,  passed  in  1854,  which  created  four  additional  land 
districts  in  this  Territory.  This  district,  in  common  with  the 
others  created  by  the  law  of  1854,  is  thirty  miles  wide,  north  and 
south,  and  extends  west  from  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  Big 
Sioux  river.  The  southern  lino  of  the  district  is  the  boundary  line 
between  Minnesota  and  Iowa. 

The  Root  lliver  Office  was  opened  in  August  1854,  and  imme- 
diately commenced  doing  a  "Land  Office  business."  In  the  five 
months  of  1854,  the  amount  of  land  sold  was  as  follows : 


Wholo  \o.  of 
acres  sold. 

82,414  07 


ArroH  covM  with 
Liiiid  Wiir'nts. 


1,900 


Am't  repcivetl 
in  wish. 

$103,018  12 


The  transactions  of  the  office  increased  largely  in  1855. 
busijicss  of  that  year  is  presented  in  the  following  table : 


The 


Sales  of  IS.V).  Whole  No.  of 

acres  fiokl. 

•Tnnuary 6,140  45  ., 

Februa'-y 2,479  38  .. 

Clinch 4,321  19  .. 

April 12,804  91   .. 

^i;>y *  23,995  03  .. 

•''1110 22,572  81   .. 

•''ily 13,870  )0 


AiTo."!  pov'd  with 
J-aiiJ  War'uta. 


Ain't  reroived 
in  rash. 

....  $7,075  59 

3,099  34 

5,40151 

700  ,  10,081  22 

('JO  29,994  70 

920 28,210  11 

200  17  3^5  27 

^^"g^"-^t 17,87189  1,120  '^•^'339 ')7 

Soptember 14,795  38  4,000  "  T8'404  33 

<Jctober 57,009  94  22,720  ....         '  71  337  77 

November 57.507  29  41200           Tl'RSi  r,R 

l^'-'cember 9,970  01   10:i20  ;.';;Z',':;  12,40202 


Total 243,405  04 


81,080 


t'ov  1854 82,414  07  1900 

'•    ^^^>^-> 243.405  04  


Total  since  office 


opened  in  1854 325,879  11 


81,080 
83,040 


$304,332  91 

$103,018  12 
304,332  91 


$407,351  03 


last, 

to  S^ 


liNTERESTJNO    STATISTICS. 


391 


llic  amount  of  money  received  at  the  Brownsville  office,  for  land 
sold  by  pre-emption,  since  it  w.-.s  opened,  amounts  to  ^215  '>89  04  • 
by  private  entry,  8151,71018;  and  by  public  sale,  840,3458l! 
Jso  public  lands  have  been  sold  in  the  Brownsville  district  at  a 
higher  price  than  81-25  per  acre. 

^    ^Wcr^,o/.sZa,t,Z/)/,.^,,V<._Thig  office  commenced  operations 
m  18o4,  in  the  month  of  October.     M.  L.  Olds,  Register,  and 
II.  I.  llussell,  Receiver.     The  Minneapolis  district  extends  west 
trom  the  Mississippi  river  to  the  line   of  the  Sioux  reservation 
winch  runs  from  the  Big  Sioux  River  to  Lao  Traverse. 

There  has  been  entered  with  cash  at  this  office,  since  it  was 
opened  on  the  9th  day  of  October,  1854,  150,071  acres;  the 
'"■T'S  nn  .'.n^''^  amounted  to  8199,770-99.  To  this  should  be 
added  10,760  acres  covered  with  Military  Land  Warrants;  makin- 
the  whole  number  of  acres  entered  at  the  office  since  its  establish" 
ment    160,831.     Of  this,  147,956  acres  were  entered  during  the 

ITlriL^^^  aggregate  receipts  of  the  same  year  amounting  to 

?l>loo,(j '  7'17. 

The  following  table  will  show  the  number  of  acres  entered  with 
cash,  and  the  receipts  for  each  month  since  the  office  was  opened : 


Month. 


No.  of  Acres. 


1854- 


1855—, 


October 3,968  47  

November 5,295  68  '. 

December 3,61189  ..'.""* 

January 3,761  45  '.'.'..'. 

February 1,273  05  

March 2,783  61   

^pril 8,367  24  

May..... 11.695  52  

June 5,369  59  

July  5,728  30  

August 6,917  64  

September 9,032  02  

October 81,056  46  .'.'.*."".*.*.'.*.'.',.',   ] 

November 885  94  '*. 

December 325  97  


Receipts. 

$4,959  36 

6,619  60 

4,514  86 

4,701  81 

1,591  31 

8,479  51 

10,459  05 

14,619  32 

6,711  98 

7,160  47 

8,047  05 

11,290  02 

13,466  28 

1,142  88 

407  46 


Total -. 150,071  84 


3199,770  98 


At  the  public  sale  of  lands  in  Minneapolis  district,  in  October 
last,  there  were  sold,  27,938  acres;  the  receipts  therefor  amounting 
to  847,068-20;].     There  were  15,419  acres  sold  at  an  advance  on 


m 


392 


SUPPLEMENT. 


the  minimum  price;  the  receipts  for  which  amounted  to  S31,758; 
making  an  average  of  ^2-06  per  acre.  Of  this  71  acres  sold  for  85 
per  acre;  60  for  85-50  per  acre;  40  acres  for  88  per  acre;  19 
acres  for  810  per  acre;  and  2  acres  for  822  per  acre. 

Winona  Land  District  — IUhe  office  of  this  district  is  located  at 
Winona,  Winona  county.  The  office  commenced  operations  in 
January,  1855.  L.  D.  Smith,  Receiver,  and  D.  Upman,  Register. 
The  district  is  thirty  miles  wide,  from  north  to  south,  and  extends 
west  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Big  Sioux  river.  The  business  of 
the  Winona  office  during  the  year,  was  as  follows : 


The  month 
of  sale. 


January . . , 
February. . 
March 


Whole  No.  of 
acres  sold. 

312  98  . 
476  34  , 
440  00 


Acres  cov'd  with 
Land  War'nts. 


Am't  recef-Fed 
in  cnsh. 

....      $891  23 
695  43 

.     .,  - 550  00 

^P"l 3,796  03  80  4,645  03i 

^lay 9,685  65  12,107  061 

June 8,665  14  10,83142* 

Ju'y 6,694  82  8,368  52i 

August 12,236  19  320  14,895  20 

September  21,218  96  6,080  18,923  70 

October 66,936  29  16,660  66,^^8  80 

November 65,803  27  15,400  05,239  80 

December 22,000  78  8,800  16,500  91 1- 


Totals 218,266  37 


47,340 


$218,527  12 


Of  the  above,  33,694.50  acres  were  sold  at  public  sale,  9,064 
acres  of  which  sold  for  more  than  the  minimum  price,  the  average 
being  81-77i  per  acre  —  the  highest  price  paid  for  any  tract  being 
814-50  per  acre. 


lied  Winfj  DisfricL  —  Thk  district  is  situated  north  of  the 
Winona,  and  south  of  the  Minneapolis  District.  The  office  is 
located  at  Red  Wing,  the  county  seat  of  Goodhue  county.  The 
District  is  thirty  miles  wide,  and  runs  west  to  the  Big  Sioux.  W. 
W.  Phelps,  Register,  and  Charles  Graham,  Receiver.  The  office 
was  not  opened  until  February,  1855.  The  sales  during  the 
remainder  of  the  year  were  as  follows  : 


INTERESTIXU    STATISTICS. 


893 


Tlift  month 
of  Hale. 


Whole  No.  of 
acres  sold. 


Arms  covM  with 
Laud  War'nta. 


80 


Ain't  rnciMved 
in  cash. 

.     .$2,848  nt 

.       2,705  84 

1,110  20 


February = 2,279  15  

March  2,104  06  

^pril 9C8  23  

^^"y i.9«4  92 40 :::::::;::::  2,40014 

•I""« 3,92044  49005r. 

i»iy 6,010  89 100 ::::::  8,07112 

^"g"st  13,679  43  1,480  15  949  32 

beptomber 21,71140  1,000  25' 888  92 

^^''^ohov 71,992  15  12,880  74*598  .^3 

N"^«""J«r 60,225  68  17,620  68*988  49 

December 10,868  04  4,480  7  985  05 


Totals 196,390  09 


43,008 


$204,752  99 


By  adding  the  business  for  January,  we  will  have  an  exhibit  of 
the  sales  at  the  Ked  Wing  office  for  one  year.  In  January,  1856, 
there  were  sold  11,190  acres  — increasing  the  total  to  207,581-52 
acres;  and  the  amount  of  cash  received,  to  ^211,341-53. 

At  the  public  sale  which  commenced  on  the  29th  of  October, 
37,391  acres  were  sold  at  an  average  price  per  acre  of  $1-42. 
The  highest  price  paid  was  at  the  rate  of  816-25  per  acre;  rangin*"g 
from  that  to  the  minimum  price. 

The  agent  of  the  Board  of  Regents  of  the  University  of  Minne- 
sota, entered  at  the  Red  Wing  office,  4,480  acres  for  the  benefit  of 
,that  Institution. 


RECAPITULATION. 

The  amount  of  land  entered  at  the  Land  Offices  in  this  Territory, 
prior  to  the  first  of  January,  1855,  was  as  follows  :— 

Whole  No  of  Acres  cov'd  with  Am't  receired 

acres  sold.  Land  War'nts.  in  cash. 

Stillwater.    400,709  52  158,528  18  $302,482  80 

Sauk  Rapids 31,507  59  4,600  00  3.3  634  48 

RootRiver 82,414  07  1,960  00  103*018  !'> 

Minneapolis 12,876  04  2,15100  16*093  81 


Total 527,007  22 


167,239  18 


$455,229  21 


!" 


1  '^  h. 


394 


SUPPLEMENT. 


1855. 


Whole  No.  of 
acres  sold. 


Acres  cov'd  with 
Land  W'am'ts. 


Stillwater...... 180,413  80  66,484  85 

Sauk  Rapids 64,499  50 

Root  River 243,405  04 


Am't  rwoived 
in  cash. 

$154,861  83 


19,609  00  56,692  15 

,,.            ,.                     ,„„'           -  81,58000  304,33291 

Minneapolis  137,195  80  8,609  00  183  677  17 

J^'Hr 218,266  37  47,340  00  218,'527  12 

^^'l^Vi^g 196,390  69  43,068  00  204,572  99 


Total  sales  in  1855...  1,040,231  20 
Prior  to  1855 627,607  22 


Total 1,567,838  42 


256,781  85 
167,239  18 

424,020  93 


$1,122,844  17 
455,229  21 

$1,678,073  38 


In  the  history  of  the  country,  we  do  not  think  such  a  record  as 
the  above  can  be  found.  In  one  year,  the  United  States  received 
from  the  sales  of  public  lands  in  this  Territory,  over  one  million  of 
dollars;  and  in  addition,  we  find  that  in  1855,  256,781  acres  of 
land  warrants,  donated  by  the  general  government  to  old  soldiers 
and  modern  speculators,  as  a  reward  for  the  bravery  of  one  class  in 
the  service  of  their  country,  and  the  zeal  displayed  by  the  other 
species  in  besieging  Congress,  were  located  in  Minnesota.  By 
placing  the  government  valuation  upon  this  land,  we  find  that  the 
total  value  of  the  land  disposed  of  in  1855,  in  this  Territory, 
amounts  to  the  sum  of  $1,443,823,  and  since  1848,  to  $2,108,100. 

We  do  not  think  any  State  or  Territory  in  the  Union  can  exhibit 
such  substantial  marks  of  progress  during  the  year  1855,  as  the 
above  indicates.  It  will  be  perceived  that  the  sales  of  land  during 
that  year  doubled  the  entire  amount  disposed  of  during  the  pre- 
ceding  seven  years,  and  that  the  receipts  into  the  United  States 
Treasury  from  lands  disposed  of  during  1855,  amounted  to  nearly 
treble  that  of  the  previous  soven  years. 

^  We  do  not  claim  the  sales  of  1855,  as  having  been  made  exclu- 
sively to  the  settlers  of  that  year.  Far  from  it.  There  was  no 
land  office  west  of  the  Mississippi,  in  this  Territory,  until  1854,  and 
setters  poured  into  that  fertile  portion  of  Minnesota  as  soon  as  the 
treaty  by  which  the  Indians  ceded  it  to  the  general  government, 
was  ratified.  But  that  the  population  of  the  west  side  more  than 
doubled  m  1855,  we  firmly  believe;  and  if  one  half  of  the  sales 
macle  during  the. year,  are  awarded  to  the  settlerB  of  that  v^nv  we 
do  not  think  the  estimate  will  be  extravagant.  "      ' 


PRE-EMPTIONS   IN    1855. 


395 


m 


PRE-EMPTIONS   IN   1855. 

The  number  of  pre-emptions  granted  to  actual  settlers  is  a  fair 
indication  of  the  prosperity  and  growth  of  a  new  country.  This 
propooition,  which  no  one  will  dispute,  places  Minnesota  at  the  head 
of  the  States  and  Territories  of  the  Union,  in  the  rapidity  with 
which  it  is  being  settled.  The  records  of  the  General  Land  Office 
at  Washington  bear  witness  to  the  fact  that  the  number  of  patents 
granted  for  lands  pre-empted  in  Minnesota,  exceeds  the  whole  ^ 
number  of  patents  granted  to  the  remaining  Territories,  and  the 
States  of  the  Union.  The  settlement  of  no  State  in  the  confederacy 
can  parallel  this  unexampled  growth ! 

It  is  extremely  difficult  to  obtain  the  figures  showing  the  amount 
of  the  pre-emption  business  in  1855.  The  land  officers,  in  their 
reports  merely  gave  us  the  amount  of  land  entered  under  the  pre- 
emption act  of  1841,  during  the  year. 

In  the  Sauk  Rapids  District,  during  the  year,  5427  acres  were 
entered  by  pre-emption. 

In  the  Red  Wing  District,  144,005  acres  were  sold  by  pre- 
emption. *^ 

In  the  Winona  District,  1063  pre-emptions  were  allowed,  covering 
149,979  acres.  This  would  make  an  average  of  141  acres  to  each 
pre-emptor. 

In  the  Minneapolis  District,  the  number  of  pre-emptions  allowed 
since  the  establishment  of  the  office,  in  1864,  to  the  end  of  1855 
was  1066.  ^  All  but  four  of  these  pre-emptions  were  made  on 
twelve  fractional  townships,  containing  in  round  numbers,  160,000 
acres.  In  the  month  of  October,  525  pre-emptions  were  allowed 
at  the  Minneapolis  office. 

In  the  Stillwater  District,  during  1854, 1308  acres  were  entered 
under  the  pre-emption  law  of  1841. 

In  the  Brownsville  District,  126,479  acres  were  entered  by  pre- 
emption.  *^  ^ 

The  above  statement  shows  that  in  1855,  more  than  one  half  of 
the  land  sold  in  Minnesota,  was  disposed  of  under  the  beneficial 
workings  of  the  pre-emption  law  of  1841. 


iHii 


396 


SUPPLEMENT. 


LANDS   SUBJECT   TO  ENTRY  AND   TO  PRE-EMPTION. 

In  the  Stillwater  and  Sauk  Rapids  Districts,  previous  to  the  pro- 
clamation of  the  President  in  the  fall  of  1855,  there  was  land  subject  to 
private  entry  at  the  land  offices;  but  in  the  four  districts  west  of  the 
river  there  was  no  land  subject  to  private  entry  until  after  the 
public  sales  of  October  and  November  last. 

There  was,  on  the  first  of  January,  subject  to  private  entry,  th(, 
following  amount  of  land  at  the  different  offices  in  the  Territory 
At  the  ■^ ' 

«!il^«''"-^''°'^.^®°® 091,200  acres 


Sauk  Rapids 
Brownsville 
Minneapolis 
Winona 
Red  Wing 


483,840 

691,200  " 

2,637  «' 

63,000  «« 

20,000  " 


This  amount  has  been  materially  diminished  since  the  first  of 
January.  At  all  the  offices,  since  that  time,  land  has  been  entered 
by  the  settlers  and  speculators,  in  considerable  quantities. 

In  all  the  districts,  there  is  a  vast  amount  of  land  subject  to  pre- 
emption,  under  the  provisions  of  the  act  of  1841.     At  the  Still- 
water  office,  on  the  first  of  January,  there  we:;e  fourteen  townships 
subject  to  pre-emption;  and  the  land  officers  had  been  notified  by 
the  department  that  the  plats  of  thirty-six  townships  would  shortly 
be  returned—of  this  land,  much  of  it  is  valuable  farming  land  in 
the  vicinity  of  Rum  river.     In  the  Sauk  Rapids  district,  twenty, 
two  townships  have  been  surveyed,  and  are  open  to  pre-emption 
In  the  Brownsville  district,  there  are  124  townshins  subject  to  pre- 
emption.    The  surveys  in  this  district  have  been  prosecuted  175 
miles  west  of  the  Mississippi.     In  the  Minneapolis  district,  on  the 
first  of  January,  there  were  ^ut  three  townships  subject  to  pre- 
emption.    Since  that  time,  plats   of  other  townships   have   been 
returned.     In   the   Winona   district,   there   are   2,000,000   acres 
subject  to  pre-emption,  and  in  the  Red  Wing  district,  1,000  000 
acres.  ^    }      t 


LAND   SPECULATORS. 
The  land  dealers  of  the  west  are  about  as  well  understood  at  the 
cast  as   the   Indian    traders;    and    are  subject  to  fully  as   much 
donunomtion  as  the  lattor  dass.     The  ontrrprisin-  ^m-nhoad   land 


LAND   SPECULATORS.  397 

trader  is  the  friend  of  every  town  and  section  of  country  in  which 
he  operates.  Being  generally  men  of  influence  and  capital,  they 
promote  and  encourage  emigration;  push  forward  public  improve- 
ments ;  and  are  found  foremost  in  every  project  tending  to  develop 
the  resources  of  the  country. 

During  the  past  year,  the  operations  of  some  of  our  Territorial 
land  dealers  have  been  of  rather  a  heavy  character.  We  give  below 
the  entries  of  different  individuals,  at  the  Land  Offices,  and  which 
comprise  the  heaviest  entries  made. 

Stillwater  District : — 

hIT'  "•  ^I'Kenty,  of  St.  Paul,  has  entered  farm  land 18,000  acres. 

Hersey  and  Staples,  of  Stillwater,  mostly  pine  land 15  000  " 

Mr.  D.  Morrison,  of  Bangor,  Me.,        '«             ««  14  qoo  ♦< 

Mr.  C.  Woodman,  Min.  Pt,  Wis.,         '«            "        j^'ooo  «' 

Mr.  C.  Woodbury,  Anoka,                      «<             a         o'onn  >< 

Judd,  Walker  &  Co.,  Marine,                 "             u         g'ooo  u 

James  Stinson,  Esq.,  St.  Paul,  farm  land .' *.'.'."'.'.■.■■.■  8,'000  " 

One  instance  of  the  returns  received  by  the  "speculators"  on 
their  investments,  will  tell  the  story  of  many  others.  Colonel 
Henry  Kenty,  one  of  our  most  enterprising  real  estate  dealers,  sold 
of  the  above  "18,000  acres,"  which  he  entered  at  the  Stillwater 
district,  5000  acres  to  a  company  of  Pennsylvania  farmers,  who 
intend  locating  on  the  same  during  the  present  season.  The  Colonel 
entered  the  land  at  ^1-25  per  acre;  a  few  months  afterwards  he 
sold  It  at  85  per  acre.  He  not  only  made  a  handsome  sum,  by  the 
sale,  but  it  brought  to  our  Territory  a  colony  of  farmers  from  a 
portion  of  Pennsylvania  where  the  best  agriculturists  in  the  State 
are  produced, 

Sauk  Rapids  District.  — The  following  persons  have  entered 
lands  at  this  office  : 

Tracy  &  Farnham,  St  Anthony,  Min.,  have  entered  farm  lands  4,000  acres 
Lucius  M.  Sheldon,  New  York  city,  has  «  <«  7  900     " 

Thomas  J.  Vaiden,  St.  Paul,  Min.,     "  <«  .«  2'7f)0     » 

Cyrus  Woodman,  Mineral  Point,  Wis.,  has  entered  pine  lands  21500     " 
Dorr  &  Garland,  St.  Anthony,  Min.,  have  "  "  2  580     " 

R.  A.  Ives,  Providence,  R.  I.,  has  *«  «<  1520     " 

Root  River  District.  — ThQ  following  entries  were  nade  at  this 
office : 

Eugene  M.  Wilson,  Monongalia  Co..  Va 2  190.9.3  acres 

H.  W.  Munsell,  Houston  Co.,  M.  T 1,898-70     " 

John  Hodgson,  Dubuque,  Iowa l'32000     " 

Phineas  G.  Wilcox,  Lake  Co.,  Ohio "  ]''>'>0.70     " 


m 

iilj 


398  SUl'PLEMENT. 

Winona  Laud  District. — At  this  office  the  following  entries  wero 
made: 

M.  Whoolcr  Sargont,  of  Winona 7,073  acres. 

John  A.  Mattliiiws,  of  Winona li.O.'M  " 

Kliaim  M.  llagnnH,  of  Preston  Co.,  Va 1,480  •« 

Henry  Abbott,  of  OneiJa  Co.,  N.  Y 1,;;{;0  ' 

Benjamin  J.  8niith.  of  Monongalia  Co.,  Va 1,UH0  *• 

Daniel  W.  Quincy,  of  Greene  Co.,  N.  Y 1,2H0  " 

E.  M.  Wilson,  of  Monongalia  Co.,  Va 1,1:02  " 

.Red  Willi/  District.  —  The  following  entries  were  made  at  this 
office  : 

Ennls  &  Plant,  of  St.  Paul,  M.  T 7,320  acres. 

William  Freeborn,  of  Red  Wing 5  442  " 

Edward  15.  Man.sell,  of  lied  Wing  2,74!)  " 

1).  T.  &  M.  Smith,  of  Minneapolis 1/J09  <« 

Mathew  Sorin,  of  Redwing 1,847  " 

Smith  &  Towne,  Real  Estate  Dealers,  Red  Wing 1,840  " 

Simcn  W.  Arnold,  of  Philadelphia 1,120  " 

P.  C.  Wilcox,  of  Dubuque,  Iowa 1,085  " 

Mimienpolis  District. — In  this  district  the  following  large  entries 
were  made : 

James  R.  iNIartin,  of  Milwaukee,  Wis 4,?.03  acres. 

Arnold  &  Bernheimer,  of  Philadelphia 3,392     '« 

Carlos  Wilcox,  of  Minneapolis 1,955     " 

R.  Chute  &  II.  S.  0.  Morrison,  of  St.  Anthony 1^557     «« 

The  different  Land  Officers,  in  communicating  the  above  facts  to 
us,  agree  in  stating  that,  in  most  instances,  the  land  was  entered  by 
individuals  for  nctual  settlers,  and  that  it  was  sold  to  them  imn^e- 
diately  after  its  entry. 


CHARACTER   OF   SETTLERS INCREASE   IN   POrULATION — ADVAN- 
TAGES   OP   THE    COUNTRY. 

Stillwater  Land  District. — Hon.  William  Holcomb,  in  his  letter 
in  response  to  a  circular  sent  to  the  different  Land  Offices,  estimates 
the  increase  in  population  of  the  country  comprised  within  the  Still- 
water d;  trict,  at  one  hundred  per  cent.  A  large  proportion  of  the 
settlers  in  this  district  arc  from  the  different  States;  Maine  having 
contributed,  as  she  always  does,  where  lumbering  is  followed  to 
advantage  and  water  power  plenty,  a  large  number.  There  is  one 
large  settlement  of  Swodos  on  the  St,  Croix,  and  there  .ire  many 
Germans,  Canadians,  Irish,  Scotch,  and  others,  intermixed  throuf^h 
the  entire  district. 


CHARACTER   OF    SETTLERS,    ETC. 


399 


In  answer  to  an  in(|uiry  in  reference  to  the  character  of  the  popu- 
lation in  this  district,  Mr.  Ilolcomb  writes  us  that  "in  a  business 
sense,  they  are  an  enterprising  business  people,  and  to  justify  this 
conclusion,  I  will  state  some  facts.  In  this  district  there  are  saVv 
mills  that  saw  an  entire  log  by  once  running  through,  and  ho 
arranged  that  one  log  follows  another  continuously,  without  loss  of 
time.  At  one  of  the  mills,  a  circular  saw,  for  making  flooring  jind 
fencing,  cuts  both  ways,  that  is,  as  the  carriage  moves  one  way,  the 
saw  cuts  in  its  downward  motion,  and  as  it  returns,  the  saw  cuts  on 
the  opposite  side  in  its  upward  motion.  Besides  these,  wo  liavo 
machines  for  planing,  flooring,  and  siding,  making  shingles,  lath, 
doors,  sash,  wagons,  sleighs,  &c.,  to  which  I  may  add,  the  large  and 
increasing  business  of  logging  in  the  pineries.  It  has  been  estimated 
that  100,000,000  feet  of  pine  lumber  in  the  log,  were  put  into  tho 
different  streams  in  this  district,  within  tho  present  year,  which  at 
at  SIO  per  M.  feet,  the  estimated  value  amounts  to  ^1,000,000. 
Interspersed  through  the  entire  pine  country  are  excellent  lands  for 
agriculture,  in  good  proportions,  so  that  tho  million  of  dollars 
annually,  as  resources  from  the  pine,  is  so  much  in  addition  to  tho 
resources  of  an  exclusively  agricultural  district^  and  harmonizes 
well  as  a  basis  for  a  home  market. 

"  I  may  add  that  this  district  invites  the  commerce  of  the  East  to 
a  common  Northern  centre,  in  stronger  terms  than  any  other 
locality  on  the  Mississippi,  as  it  has  on  its  borders  the  heads  of 
navigation  for  that  class  of  steamers  plying  between  Pittsburg,  St. 
Louis,  and  St.  Paul,  which,  by  common  consent,  have  made  the 
latter  their  common  dcp6t,  and  it  contains  all  the  country — being 
the  backbone  ridge  of  the  Union  —  between  the  western  tpr-minus 
of  Lake  Superior  on  the  North  and  the  head  of  navigatii  uf  the 
father  of  waters  on  the  South,  and  is  the  shortest  route  between 
the  Northern  and  Southern  navigation." 

The  St.  Croix,  which  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  Still- 
water district,  presents  great  advantages  to  the  lumbermen  and  the 
manufacturer.  The  lumbering  business  is  now  prosecuted  on  that 
river  and  its  tributaries,  to  a  greater  extent  than  it  is  on  any  other 
branch  of  the  Mississippi.  The  lumbering  business  of  the  present 
year  will  exceed  in  amount  that  of  any  preceding  year — and  when 
proper  statistics  can  be  presented  to  the  public,  the  result  of  the 
labors  of  the  lumbermen  will  exceed  in  value  the  estimates  of  the 
most  sar'Tuine. 


1'! 
'■I     1 


j»Jgr.*Hc-rt«.™ 


400 


HUPI'F.KMENT. 


SoH-  hnpnh  D/xfru't.— The  conntry  lyin^  on  the  Mlmmpm 
»1h.vu  the  Falls,  tl.ou.i:!,  unequalled  in  fertility  nn,l  natural  a-lvan- 
ta^res,  has  not  increased  so  rapidly  in  population  an.l  wealth  as  the 
southern  portion  of  the  Territory.     The  reason  for  this  is  obvious  • 
and  IS  to  be  found  in  the  fact  that  tho  upper  country  has  been 
without  the  proper  means  of  affording  tho  emigrant  a  speedy  and 
cheap  conveyance  to  its  fertile  prairies,  and  beautiful  wood  lands 
Jiut  the  coming  season  will  change  tho  appearance  of  tho  upper 
Mississippi  country.     A  road  has  been  constructed  from  the  west 
end  of  Lake  Superior  to  the  Mississippi,  and  it  is  not  improbable 
that  a  large  emigration  will  be  diverted  to  Benton  and  the  surround- 
ing  country,  by  the  Lake  Superior  route,  during  the  coming  summer. 
Mr.  W   n.  Wood,  of  the  Sauk  Rapids  Land  Office,  in  referring  to 
this  subject,  says  that  "several  parties  this  winter  (1855-5G)  have 
reconnoitered  the  country  to  ascertain  the  practicability  of  an  Immi- 
grant  road  connecting  the  lake  with  the  river.     All  parties  report 
most  favorably  of  the  enterprise.     A  delightful  country  bordering 
upon  Mille  Lac,  and  hitherto  but  little  known,  has  been  brought  to 
notice  by  these  operations.     All  parties  unite  in  pronouncing  the 
land,  the  entire  distance,  admirably  adapted  for  the  construction  of 
a  road.     The  distance  from  Sauk  Rapids  to  Fond  du  Lac,  Lake 
•  Superior,  by  Mille  Lac,  is  120  miles.     A  direct  line  crosses  Rum 
river  fifteen  miles  below  Mille  Lac.     Recent  surveys  have  been 
made  from  Crow  Wing,  Little  Falls,  and  St.  Cloud.     A  road  is 
already  m  progress  of  construction  from  Superior  to  Mille  Lac,  and 
little  doubt  is  entertained  of  its  continuance  and  eariy  completion 
to  the  Mississippi.     The  construction  of  this  thoroughfare,  now  so 
much  needed  by  the  settlers,  both  at  the  lake  and  on  the  river  will 
greatly  contribute  to  the  early  settlement  of  the  entire  cou'  ry 
intervening."  ^ 

^  Mr.  Wood  also  sets  down  the  increase  of  his  district,  in  popula- 
tion,  at  100  per  cent.  He  says  of  the  population  that  they  are 
"  inuustrious,  enterprising,  and  money  making."  The  lar-er  por- 
tion of  the  settlers  are  Americans.  There  are  two  lar.>-c  German 
settlements  — one  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Cloud,  tho  otl.er  on  St 
Joseph's  Prairie,  on  Sauk  river  — both  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Mississippi.  There  are  many  Canadians;  of  Irish  and  Scotch  there 
are  few. 

Of  the  lands  in  the  Sauk  Rapids  district  that  remain  subject  to 
private  entry,  a  great  proportion  consists  of  good  farming  land,  well 


CIIARACTEU   OF    HETTLERS,    ETC. 


401 


waterc<],  and  eligibly  situatod.  Much  chofco  prairio  land  rcmaina 
yet  subject  to  private  entry,  near  the  Mississippi  river.  This  land 
makes  excellent  farms  with  comparatively  little  labor ;  and  wood 
for  building  and  fencing  can  always  bo  secur.  J  within  a  reasonable 
distance. 

In  speaking  of  the  agricultural  advantages  of  the  Sauk  llapids 
district,  Mr.  Wood  says  it  is  eminently  an  agricultural  district.  In 
this  respect,  in  truth,  it  has  no  superior  anywhere.  The  prairie 
land  is  of  a  superior  quality.  The  prairies  arc  numerous,  but  small, 
and  always  within  short  distances  of  good  wood  and  pure  water. 
The  remaining  lands  are  hazel-bush  and  timbered  lands.  Hazel- 
bush  land  has  been  found  most  excellent  for  the  raisinff  of  wheat 
especially.  As  evidence  of  the  productiveness  of  the  soil  in  the 
district  generally,  in  wheat  raising,  Mr.  Wood  mentions  that  in  the 
county  of  IJcnton,  besides  large  quantities  of  oats,  buckwheat,  and 
corn,  upwards  of  sixteen  thousand  bushels  of  wheat  were  raised 
last  year. 

The  Sauk  river  valley,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi  river,  is 
now  being  rapidly  settled  by  an  industrious  and  enterprising  popu- 
lation, and  is  destined  to  become  one  of  the  most  populous  and 
wealthy,  as  well  as  most  attractive  valleys  in  IMinnesota.  Blany 
large  farms  arc  already  under  cultivation,  and  the  yield  of  wheat, 
oats  and  potatoes,  is  such  as  could  hardly  be  expected  »ven  from  the 
fertile  bottoms  of  Illinois.  This  beautiful  land  is  yet  unsurveyed, 
but  is  claimed  and  occupied  for  many  miles  along  the  banks  of 
Sauk  river — more  than  twenty — west  from  its  mouth. 

Lying  upon,  the  Mississippi,  there  are,  in  the  district,  immense 
pineries,  commencing  at  the  mouth  of  the  Crow  Wing  river,  and 
extending  for  more  than  fifty  miles  northward,  along  the  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  many  miles  back.  Besides  this  vast  pinery, 
much  valuable  pine  land  is  found  on  Rum,  Platte,  and  Long 
Prairie  rivers.    Eight  saw  mills  are  in  operation  within  the  district. 

Root  River  Land  District.  —  This  district  comprises  a  favorite 
portion  of  Minnesota,  and  one  which,  as  the  tabular  statements 
exhibit,  has  more  rapidly  increased  in  population  during  1855,  than 
any  other  portion  of  the  Territory.  In  the  Root  river  district, 
there  are  at  present,  subject  to  pre-empticn,  lands  in  the  counties 
of  Fillmore,  Mower,  Freeborn,  Farribault,  and  in  the  southern  tier 


jii 


402 


SUPPLEMENT. 


of  townships  in  Olmstcnd,  T)oiIf;c,  Steele,  nnd  Blue  Karth  counties. 
For  fertility,  tlicso  lunds  are  not  exeecdod  by  any  on  tho  continent. 
Mr.  M'Konny  cstiimtos  that  tho  rate  of  increase  in  population 
in  tho  lirownsvillo  district  during  1855,  has  hccnjive  huuhed  per 
vent.;  and,  judging  from  personal  observation,  and  conversations 
with  gentlemen  who  havo  had  every  opportunity  of  acquiring 
truthful  information,  wo  think  this  estimate  a  small  one,  rather  than 
extravagant. 

The  population  of  tho  Brownsville  district  consists  principallv 
of  emigrants  from  the  following  States  :— New  York,  Massachusetts, 
ronneoticut,  Vermont,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Michigan,  Indiana, 
Jllmois,  Wisconsin,  and  Iowa.  There  are  several  extensive  settle- 
ments  of  Norwegians  in  this  district,  as  well  as  German,  Irish, 
Scotch,  Swedes,  and  Canadians.  As  to  the  character  of  these 
settlers,  they  are  an  intelligent  and  industrious  people. 

Minneapolis  Land  District.— Tho  settlements  in  the  l\Iinneapoli3 
district  have  advanced  far  beyond  the  surveys,  and  the  land  officers 
estimate  tho  increase  of  population  Vit  four  hundred  per  cent. 

The  settlers  in  this  district  are  farmers;    industrious,  thrifty 
moral  and  intelligent,  about  two-thirds  of  them  are  Americans  by 
birth,  and  the  rest  are  Irish,  Germans  and  Canadian  French,  in 
about  equal  proportions. 

The  country  between  the  Minnesota  and  Mississippi,  situated  in 
this  district,  IS  very  fertile,  and  in  its  wild  state  presents  a  beautiful 
appearance.  Rolling  prairies,  dotted  with  small  lakes  of  clear 
water,  and  orchard  like  groves  of  trees,  are  the  principal  character- 
istics  of  the  scenery.  Many  thriving  inland  villages  are  springing 
up,  while  the  farming  population  is  increasing  at  a  rapid  rate. 

9n^'Tr  f""""^  ^^'strict. -Thoro  are  in  this  district  nearly 
2,000,000  of  acres  subject  to  pre-emption,  including  as  choice 
agricultural  lands  as  the  most  theoretical  or  practical  farmer  could 
desire.  It  is  mostly  prairie,  interspersed  with  groves  of  timber, 
watered  by  numerous  springs,  rivulets,  and  rivers,  which  abound  in 
speckled  trout  and  others  of  the  finny  tribes,  (listen,  ye  disciples  of 
the  good  Izaak  Walton  !)  and  affording  in  their  course  to  the  Father 

01    Waters,  nnmprnna  nr«f/%«  _»., \.\.     « 

J  '.        •  ""«•^,l-puWci3  rapauio  or  easy  improvement. 

m  speaking  of  the  population  of  this  district,  Mr.  L.  D.  Smith, 
the  Receiver  at  the  Land  Office  at  Winona,  says,  that  in  point  o' 


CnARACTER  OP  SETTLERS,    ETC. 


408 


intelligence,  perseverance,  and  every  qualification  going  to  make  up 
an  enlightened  and  proHperous  coniraunify,  they  will  compare  favor- 
ably with  any  other  clarts  of  persons  that  ho  has  ever  ficon. 

The  great  majority  of  the  settlers  are  from  the  States New 

York  having  contributed  much  the  largest  number.  There  arc  two 
or  three  aettlcments  of  Norwegians  in  this  district,  and  Scotland 
has  its  representatives  in  a  few  localitica,'whilo  from  different  parts 
of  the  district,  the  "sweet  German  accent  and  the  rich  Irish 
brogue"  are  frequently  heard. 

The  increase  of  population  in  the  District  for  the  year  1855,  has 
been  at  least  five  hundred  per  cent,  which,  to  some,  may  appear 
incredible,  but  yet  Mr.  Smith  is  satislied  that  the  facts  will  fully 
sustain  the  assertion.  To  show  the  rapid  increase  in  that  portion 
of  Minnesota,  ho  instances  the  county  of  Olmsted.  In  what  is  now 
Olmsted  county  two  years  since  the  white  man  had  net  disturbed 
the  peaceful  denizen  of  the  forest,  but  within  that  period  civilization 
has  taken  possession,  and  the  beautiful  prairies  have  been  converted 
into  broad  fields,  yielding  bountifully,  thus  enriching  the  farmer, 
and  converting  a  wide  solitude  into  a  settled  district,  numbering 
nearly  or  quite  5000  inhabitants.  The  same  is  true  not  only  of 
other  localities  in  this  district,  but  of  the  entire  southern  portion 
of  the  Territory. 

Quito  a  number  of  mills  are  already  in  operation  in  different 
parts  of  the  district,  and  many  more  are  in  process  of  construction ; 
many  thriving  towns  are  springing  up  ;.i  the  interior,  and  along  the 
Minnesota  Valley,  among  which  are  Stockton,  St.  Charles,  Roches- 
ter, Mantorvillc,  Farribault,  Orinoco,  Ashland,  St.  Peter,  Traverse 
dcs  Sioux,  (fee.,  &c.  Schools  and  churches  are  fast  furnishing  the 
means  of  mental  and  moral  culture.  A  charter  for  a  Railroad  has 
been  obtained  and  accepted,  to  connect  the  Mississippi  at  Winona 
with  the  waters  of  the  Minnesota  river,  and  when  this  shall  be 
completed,  the  district  will  have  unrivalled  facilities  of  intercom- 
munication. 

Red  Wing  Land  District. — Messrs.  Phelps  and  Graham  estimate 
that  the  populaiion  of  the  district  has  more  than  quadrupled  during 
the  past  year,  1855.  From  the  declaratory  statements  filed  in  that 
office,  it  would  seem  that  settlements  have  reached  far  back  into  the 
interior,  and  iu  some  instances,  entire  townships,  with  occasional 
exceptions,  have  been  claimed  by  the  pre-emptor.  There  is  yet, 
however,  in  the  district,  large  quantities  of  very  desirable  farming 


404 


SUPPLEMENT. 


land,  unclaimed  and  unsettled,  which  offer  great  inducements 
to  the  settler,  by  th  ir  accessibility,  and  the  ease  with  which  the 
settler  can  roach  an  excellent  and  permanent  market. 

The  Mississippi  skirts  the  district  on  the  east;  and  the  Minne- 
sota, in  the  valley  of  which  are  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile  lands 
in  the  West,  runs  twice  diagonally  across  the  district.  The  Cannon 
and  Vermilion  rivers,  wifh  their  branches  — the  branches  of  the 
Zumbro— and  the  smaller  streams  running  into  the  Mississippi  and 
Minnesota— afford  excellent  water-power,  and  make  this  region  of 
country  the  best  watered  in  Minnesota. 

lied  Wing,  Hastings,  Shakopee,  Henderson  and  Le  Suer,  among 
the  most  flourishing  towns  in  the  Territory,  are  in  this  district. 
Their  growth,  although  marvellous,  has  scarcely  equalled  the  growth 
of  the  back  country  which  supports  them.  Under  the  operation  of 
the  pre-emption  law,  the  country,  for  one  so  entirely  new,  is  settling 
densely ;  and  where  a  year  ago  there  was  scarcely  a  habitation,  are 
now  to  bo  seen  towns  and  farming  settlements,  which,  for  extent  of 
improvements  and  appearance  of  prosperity,  will  tind  no  parallel  in 
the  settlement  of  the  West. 

The  settlers  of  this  district  are  a  pretty  general  admixture  of  the 
natives  of  the  States,  Germans,  Irish,  Swedes,  Norwegians,  &c. ;  the 
native  born  population,  however,  largely  predominating  over  all- 
classes.     The  settlers  are  enterprising,  industrious  and  prosperous. 

The  lied  Wing  District  is  eminently  an  agricultural  one.  The 
back  country  is  undulating,  with  numerous  streams.  It  is  mainly 
prairie,  interspersed  with  groves  of  trees,  and  backed  by  the  "  Big 
Woods,"  with  its  inexhaustible  supply  of  the  choicest  timber. 
There  are  also  many  charming  lakes  scattered  over  the  district. 

We  have  endeavored  to  present,  in  the  foregoing  statements, 
derived  from  unimpeachable  authority,  a  view  of  the  advantages  of 
the  different  parts  of  Minnesota,  the  immense  immigration  of  the 
past  year,  and  the  unparalleled  sales  at  the  Land  Offices.  The 
figures  alone  afford  matter  for  hearty  congratulation. 

Two  more  Land  Offices  are  about  to  be  established  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  Territory;  and  in  the  sou.aern  portion,  other  new  offices 
will  be  established,  or  the  old  ones  removed  farther  west,  for  the 
better  accommodation  of  the  settlers. 


A    WOltl)    OF    ENCOURAGEMENT. 


405 


A  WORD  OF  ENCOURAGEMENT  FOR  THE  FUTURE. 

And  here  my  pen  fails  me,  and  I  confess  my  inability  to 
portray  the  glorious  future  destiny  of  our  territory,  ns  it  will 
be  portrayed  in  a  few  short  years  hy  deeds,  and  works,  and 
enterprises,  greater  and  grander  in  their  concf-ption,  and 
borne  forward  by  a  restless  energy  to  completion  more  rap- 
idly than  the  most  enthusiastic  can  imagine.  It  needs  the 
intuition  of  a  prophet  to  imagine  the  great  reality  that  will 
soon  dawn  upon  us  —  we  that  soon  are  to  form  one  of  the 
brightest  stars  in  this  confederacy  of  states.  That  this  is  so, 
is  just  as  certain  as  that  the  immutable  laws  of  nature  rule 
the  universe.  Is  it  not  already  evident  to  every  citizen  ?  Is 
it  not  so  plain  that  he  who  runs  may  read  ? 

Why  should  not  the  light  of  hope  in  the  prosperous  future 
cheer  every  Minnesota  heart,  nerve  every  man  —  and  enliven 
every  mind  ?  Was  there  ever  in  the  history  of  the  world,  on 
any  portion  of  God's  footstool,  a  grander  theatre  opened  for 
the  display  of  human  industry,  energy,  and  enterprise,  than 
here  ?  Where  could  happier  homes  be  carved  out  by  the  mere 
aid  of  toil  and  sweat?  Where  could  health  and  peace  and 
comfort  be  enjoyed  to  a  greater  c .  ent,  as  the  reward  of  indus- 
try, than  here?  Where  could  higher  aims  be  pursued  and 
nobler  lives  be  led  — lives  spent  in  the  building  up  a  state,  to 
be  governed  by  simple,  wise  and  wholesome  laws  — inhabited 
by  people,  moral,  temperate,  and  possessing  a  religion  pure 
and  undefiled,  and  without  a  tinge  of  bigotry  or  cant  ?  Why 
stand  ye  all  the  day  idle  in  the  market-place  ?  Why  are  ye  not, 
eacli  and  every  one  of  you,  up  and  doing  ?  Why  do  you  not 
feel  that  the  pillars  of  the  embryo  state  are  resting  upon  your 
separate  shoulders,  and  resolve  to  stand  up  with  a  more  tiian 
Samson's  strength,  though  the  weight  should  threaten  to 
crush  you. 

And  if  you  ever  despair,  and  the  light  of  hope  grow  dim 
within    your   heart,   and    fade    away,  turn    from    the   picture 
there   presented    to   look   on    this.       In    from    four  to  five   years 
more,    the    State    of    Minnesota   will    contain    from   four   to   five 


I  [I 


406 


SUPPLKMr^lNT. 


Iniiidred  tliousand  people.  A  constitution  niul  stnte  govern- 
ment will  liavc  been  formed,  and  some  citizen  now  perhaps 
amongst  us,  will  liave  been  clioscn  her  chief  mngistrate.  Her 
two  senators  will  have  been  sent  to  the  senate-house,  and 
Iier  voice  will  bo  heard,  and  her  voles  fdt,  iu  the  councils  of 
tlie  nation. 

^  The  working  machinery  of  lier  government  will  lie  all  ii  mo- 
tion. Her  people  will  elect  a  sound  judiciary  who  will  admin- 
ister, we  may  hope,  her  laws  so  wisely  and  justly  as  to  for  ever 
shield  the  sacred  ermine  from  sus])icion  or  reproach.  Her 
prairies  will  be  peopled  over  by  a  hardy,  hnppy,  confented 
and  thrifty  race  of  men  — a  people  gathered  from  all  parts  of 
our  own  loved  coujitry,  and  from  the  oppressed  of  every  clime 
—  all  here  as  free  as  the  rough  breeze  that  sweeps  arouml  their 
homesteads  and  tinges  every  countenance  with  the  ruddy  hue 
of  health. 

The  two  great  civilizers,  the  church  and  school-house,  will 
be  found  from  Big  Stone  Lake  to  Fond  du  Lac  — from  the  Iowa 
line  to  Pembina.  Railroads  will  connect  us  with  tlie  states; 
and  the  various  prominent  points  within  the  state  will  be  uni- 
ted by  an  iron  chain ;  while  that  real  "  democrat,"  the  iron 
horse,  will  be  heard  puffing  over  many  a  plain,  and  his  echoes 
heard  stirring  among  the  silent  hills,  and  laughing  to  scorn  the 
sluggish  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  St.  Croix,  and  Miimesota; 
as  well  as  other  streams,  Avhose  calm  surfaces  are  as  yet  unrip- 
pled  by  even  the  paddles  of  a  steamer. 

Manufactures,  commerce,  and  the  arts,  Avill  flourish  to  an  ex- 
tent now  unthought  of.  Every  stream  will  be  taxed  and  made 
to  labor  as  it  leaps  and  roars.  Every  acre  of  tillable  land 
will  be  made  to  yield  its  tribute.  A  fleet  of  steamers  will  be 
always  found  at  the  levee  of  St.  Paul  and  other  towns.  Bench 
street  being  cut  down  to  the  water's  edge,  a  magnificent  levee 
will  be  formed  the  entire  city's  length.  In  short,  the  hum  of 
industry  and  of  strong,  active,  vigorous,  joyous,  and  happy 
life,  will  ascend  heavenward  like  incense  from  a  grateful  peo- 
ple, till  the  noise  of  a  Jiundred  cataracts  like  St.  Anthony's 
would  sink  into  insignificance  and  be  unhe.-ird. 

And  now  should  this  picture  of  the  future  be  considered  to 


A    WORD   OF   ENCOURAGEMENT. 


m 


he  overwrouglit,  look  at  the  history  and  results  of  only  five 
years  past.  Witness  the  wilderness  and  prairie  tiansfoiinod 
from  barrenness  to  a  high  state  of  productiveness  —  thousands 
of  farms  opened,  towns  arising,  the  church,  the  school  and 
court-house  adorning  many  a  hill  and  vale  —  and  particularly 
behold  the  advancement  made  since  the  opening  of  naviga- 
jtion,  in  April  last  —  compare  the  present  with  the  past  —  look 
at  the  assessor's  list,  and  see  the  rapid  immigration  that  has 
poured  in  upon  us ;  witness  the  claim  houses  scattered  over 
and  dotting  every  prairie  and  peeping  through  every  grove ; 
the  rude,  rough  homes  of  men  —  great,  stalwart  men  —  men  with 
with  stout  hearts,  strong  arms,  and  willing,  determined  spirits. 
Pioneers  of  the  frontier,  ever  progressive,  and  bearing  the 
banner  of  civilization  in  the  foremost  rank;  these  are  the  jew- 
els—  the  men  who  soon  will  constitute  the  state;  their  blood 
and  bone  and  sinews  are  worth  more  to  I\Iinnesota  than  any 
Cnlifurnian  or  Australian  mine. 

I  have  mingled  much  among  these  men,  and  no  faint  hearts 
are  there — no  faltoiing  back  or  murmuring.  Hoj)c,  all-cheer- 
ing Jw2)e  in  their  future,  beats  high  within  their  hearts,  and 
attended  by  health  and  happiness  and  rapidly  increasing  fam- 
ilies, thus  doing  themselves  and  the  state  a  service  ;  the  few 
annoyances  of  frontier  life  visit  them  but  lightly,  and  to  a  de- 
termined mind  they  vanish  as  quickly  as  a  troubled  dream.  It 
is  not  indeed  surprising  that  there  should  be  so  few  faint-heart- 
ed individuals  in  Minnesota. 

The  universal  confidence  which  prevails  is  an  infallible 
guaranty  of  additional  prosperity.  The  people  have  deter- 
mined that  Minnesota  shall  soon  become  a  great  and  populous 
state,  and  that  St.  Paul,  at  no  very  distant  day,  shall  become 
a  city,  second  to  none  located  in  the  valley  of  the  Mlssissijjpi. 
What  the  people,  in  their  united  strength,  determine,  is  gen- 
erally sure  to  be  accomplished. 

The  j'?rti  has  gone  forth,  and  now  at  length  the  mission  of 
the  Mississippi  river  is  about  to  be  accomplished.  Nothing 
human  can  retard  it. 

All  that  we  want  is  a  reasonable  faith  in  the  sweeping  course 
of  events.     We  must  break  loose  from  ancient  suju'rstitione, 


ioa 


SUPPLEMENT. 


^ 


and  take   couunou   scm.so   and   injured   reason   for   our  future 
ffUH  es.     Lverj  great  cause   nu.st  inevitably  produce  a  ^reat 
r.'sult.^    Great  causes  but  j.artially  developed  are  even  n.nv  iu 
operation  in  our  bel.alf,  and  it  would  be  an  anon.aly  in  the  lus- 
tory  of  the  world   if  a  corresponding  effect  be  not  eventually 
produced.     The  Mississippi  river  was  not  .nade  in  vain.     Its 
mighty  destiny  is  just  beginning  to  be  fulfilled.     The  day  is 
surely  approaching  when  the  population  of  its  vast  and  fertile 
valley  will  inuny  times  exceed  the  present  population  of  the 
whole  American  continent,  improbable  and  visionary  as  such  a 
spec.ilation  as  this  may  seem  !     This  is  a  lightning  age  •     We 
Hy  with  such  amazing  rapidity  that  we  are  hut  dimly  coi'.scious 
oi  the  jmmensity  of  space  we  are  liourly  leaving  behind  us. 

V^lXr  'If''^'''''''  ««"tury,  the  papulation  of  the 
United  Sta  es  will  have  readied  nearly  the  stupendous  sum  of 
one  hundred  mil  ions.  Who  can  calculate  what  the  population 
of  Minnesota  will  be  at  that  time  ?     I  think  it  .ill  be  safe  to 

thL  n  rTr'  ""'n^  '""  "^"^"^"     ^'  ''  "^^  '''"'   I'^'l'"^'  tl'at 

lesult.  What  proportion  of  that  number  will  constitute  the 
population  o  St.  Paul  ?  As  the  centre  of  tra.le  for  so  exten- 
sive and  productive  a  region,  whether  it  be  the  capital  of  the 
State  or  not  rt  cannot  contain  less  than  from  one  hundred  and 
fifty  to  two  hundred  thousand  souls,  within  its  municipal  limits. 

but  ft?  TlT  "-f/'r  "^^^  ^^'- -'-^y  ^«lH>ld  that  day. 
bnt_ their  dark  hair  will  then  be  thin  and  silvered  o'er,  aifd 
their  eyes  so  bright  now  with  the  energy  of  youth  will  be 
dimmed  with  the  shadows  of  many  years.'  Numerous  fan^  iar 
names  will  be  registered  upon  the  white  tombstones  of  the 
Oakland  Cemetery."  which  is  now  an  almost  untenanted 
fie  d,  beautiful,  solitary,  and  still.  Let  these  names  give  rec- 
ord 0  lives  usefully  spent.  Let  them  be  such  as  will  be  e- 
inembered  without  shame ! 

There  are  men  now  living  in  St.  Paul-large,  noble-hearted. 

generous  men-who,  though  not  unmindful  of  their  own  ul 

vate  interests  are  nevertheless  doing  much  calculated  to  refi'ect 

.e   highest  benehts  upon  those  who   shall  come  after  them. 

Lvery  man  owes  to  the  future  an  obligation   which   it  should 


A    WORD    OF    KNCOUUAOKMKNT. 


409 


be  his  piido,  lionoral.ly  and  hy  diHintcrestod  efforts  on  hclialf 
of  his  fellow-uicii,  liiUy  to  diHcl.aigo.  Each  i.ulividual  exerts 
a  greater  or  less  inllnenco  upon  the  coiniiiuiuty  iu  which  he 
dwells,  lie  can  do  much,  either  for  goad  or  evil,  if  steadfastly 
so  disposed.  Who  can  contemplate  the  present  population  of 
our  territory  without  experiencing  sentiments  of  pride  and  ex- 
ultation ?  Where  can  a  more  moral  and  active  community  bo 
found  than  that  of  St.  Paul  ?  How  few  crimes  are  committed 
ni  our  midst.  Where  are  the  robbers  and  incendiaries,  and 
nnirderers,  which  so  thickly  infest  the  crowded  cities  of  the 
cast. 

Crimes  generally  spring  from  indolence  and  vice  combined. 
They  arise,  too,  from  want  of  employment,  created  by  the  im- 
perfections  of  government  and  the  oppression  of  unequal  laws. 
Give  men  employment  and  liberal  wages,  and  you  will  be 
almost  sure  to  find  them  industrious  and  honest  and  good. 
This  is  the  secret  of  our  Minnesota  prosperity.  Every  man 
who  desires  it  can  get  employment  at  remunerating  wages. 
Labor  is  respected,  and  the  honest  mechanic  is  looked  upon  as 
a  benefactor  of  the  community.  Thus,  industry  is  stimulated 
and  morality  encouraged,  and  thus  are  firm  foundations  of  our 
future  state  laid,  as  it  were,  upon  a  basis  of  granite  rock. 

The  prospects  of  Minnesota  are  exceedingly  flattering.  The 
year  just  closed  haa  witnessed  a  large  augmentation  of  our 
population,  and  now,  at  the  commencement  of  1854,  as  we 
turn  over  the  pages  of  the  past  twelve  months,  we  see  much 
our  feelings  would  prompt  us  to  notice.  It  contains  a  minia- 
ture panorama  of  the  great  drama  of  life.  We  see  the  great 
and  fertile  valley  of  the  Minnesota  river  open  for  the  first  time 
to  white  settlements,  and  its  banks  already  whitening  with 
brisk  and  thriving  villages.  We  have  seen  the  aboriginals 
who  inhabited  this  country  almost  from  the  morning  "the 
stars  sang  together,  and  all  the  sons  of  God  shouted  for  joy," 
swept  from  the  face  of  the  land,  and  gone  to  seek  a  cheerless 
home  in  the  dark  crannies  of  the  unkind  north. 

We  have  seen  large  colonies  of  worthy  men,  the  true  and 
genuine  elements  of  a  thriving,  order-loving,  virtuous  commu- 
nity, located  on  the  agricultural  lands  in  different  parts  of  the 


410 


aUl'l'LKMENT. 


territory,  wliere,  till  within  the  present  year,  the  idle  winds 
howled  in  unison  with  the  deep  groans  of  the  undiHturbed 
wilderness.  Many  more  are  on  their  way.  The  boats  will  be 
crowded  all  next  season  with  immigrants  of  sterling  quality. 
Let  us  welcome  them  with  cordiality,  and  freely  oftor  tliem 
every  encouragement  in  our  power.  Thus,  their  first  impres- 
sions will  be  pleasant,  and  the  attractions  of  the  couT^^ry  great- 
ly enhanced. 

There  is  a  musical  power  in  kindness,  which  oftentimes 
outweighs  the  highest  considerations  of  mere  selfish  ir.terest. 
"VVe,  who  have  been  here  for  years,  have  seen  the  genius  of 
civilization  pursue  the  retreating  savage,  beckoning  her  fol- 
lowers to  close  up  in  the  rear.  They  have  done  so,  thus  re- 
claiming from  fruitless  sterility  one  of  the  fairest  portions  of 
tlie  American  continent. 

We  have  seen  the  valley  of  the  upper  Mississippi  become 
the  field  of  gigantic  enterprises,  which  gives  an  encouraging 
prospect  of  a  brilliant  future. 

We  have  seen  a  surveying  party,  by  order  of  the  United 
States  government,  set  out  from  St.  Paul,  exploring  a  railroad 
route  from  our  city  to  the  Pacific  coast,  which  commission  re- 
turns a  most  favorable  and  hopeful  report. 

During  the  year  past,  attention  has  turned  earnestly  to  the 
importance  of  a  Lake  Superior  railroad ;  the  commencement 
of  which  work  is  now  near  at  hand,  soon  to  afford  us  an  unin- 
terrupted steam  passage  to  the  great  cities  of  the  east. 

The  city  of  St.  Paul  has  already  sent  out  her  colony  to 
Lake  Superior,  whose  efforts  and  sympathies  will  be  directed 
toward  effecting  a  speedy  communication  between  the  two 
places. 

All  these  branches  and  arms  of  trade  we  have  seen  spread 
out  from  St.  Paul,  the  common  centre,  which  town  has  steadily 
kept  pace  with  the  rapid  development  of  the  country.  We 
have  seen  it  operating  capital  at  least  doubled  the  past  year, 
new  enterprises  entered  into,  new  branches  of  industrial  arts 
added  to  the  common  stock,  manufactories  of  differei  t  kinds 
opening,  a  large  addition  to  its  population,  with  numerons  ele- 
gant public  and  private  edifices ;  and  what  is  better,  we  have 


A   WOED  OF  ENCOURAGEMENT. 


411 


seen  a  prosperous  and  happy  people.  The  important  Indian 
treaties,  made  in  the  summer  of  1851,  by  Col.  Lake  Lea  and 
Governor  Ramsey,  with  the  Sioux  Indians,  having  been  con- 
summated, lands  sufficient  to  form  the  state  of  Minnesota  are 
already  ceded  and  relinquished.  The  non-success  of  any 
other  treaties  that  may  be  asked  for,  will  not,  can  not,  mar  the 
brilliant  destiny  or  impede  the  progress  of  the  future  state. 

Before  the  last  Indian,  who  received  his  share  of  this  fust 
annuity,  for  his  late  home,  shall  have  left  his  new  hunting- 
grounds  for  the  happy  hunting-grounds  of  his  fathers  in  the 
spirit  land,  almost  every  tillable  acre  of  this  ceded  purchase 
will  be  occupied  by  the  hardy  sons  of  toil,  and  the  spinning- 
wheel  of  many  a  fair  daughter  of  industry  Avill  hum  and  whirl 
its  almost  ceaseless  rouiui  through  its  length  and  breadth  ; 
while  millions  of  dollars  will  flow  back  into  the  treasury  of 
the  United  States  in  payment,  at  the  usual  government  price. 

Look,  also,  at  the  commerce  of  the  territory  during  the  piist 
year,  and  calculate  what  it  will  be  the  next,  and  every  suc- 
ceeding one.  Now  heavily-loaded  steamers  arrive  and  leave 
us  every  day,  taking  the  average  season  through ;  and  this 
year  almost  half  of  these  Avill  be  wanted  for  the  Minnesota 
river  trade,  should  the  stage  of  water  be  sufficient;  if  not, 
some  twenty-five  or  fifty  smaller  craft  will  be  required.  We 
have  now  several  boats  owned  here,  let  us  have  more ;  let 
every  man  divest  himself,  as  far  as  may  be,  of  all  selfishness, 
all  animosities  toward  his  fellow-man,  all  jealousies  between 
place  and  place.  Let  every  one  invest  his  all  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage, and  alsc  induce  his  friends  who  have  means,  to  come 
among  us ;  speak  to  the  press  abroad  and,  in  short,  let  every 
true  Tc\n  put  his  own  shoulder  to  the  wheel  and  make  a  ten- 
strike  for  the  home  of  his  adoption — his  Minnesota. 


412 


SUrPLEMENT. 


TIIF,    LUMIIERING   BUSINESS  OF   THE   ST.   CIIOIX    AND   UPPER 

MISSISSIPPI  RIVERS. 


Naini' 


I'roprictiir. 


Disputed, 

Willinni  Koiit, 

Judd,  Walker  tk  Co. 

M.  Mower, 
<>         It 

Sftwyer  &  Ileaton, 
J.  MeKusick, 

Nelson,  Calton  &  Co. 

Eastern  Capitalists. 
Jos.  Bowron, 
M.  Perrin. 


t!itllHlt!ll. 


Wisconsin, 

Wisconsin, 
Minnesota. 


Wisconsin, 
<t 

Minnesota, 
Wisconsin, 


No,  of  eiiws. 


five  upright,  ) 
one  rotary,     J 
two  upriijlit, 
two  upright, 
one  u|)right, 
one  upright, 
two  upright, 
two  upright, 
two  upright,  ) 
one  rotary,     J 
two  upright, 
one  upright, 
one  upright, 
one  upright. 


An,  I'rotliict. 


4,000,000, 

2,000,000, 
2,000,000, 
1,000,000, 
1,000,000, 
2,000,000, 
2,000,000, 

3,000,000, 

2,000,000, 

800,000, 

1,000,000, 


Falls  St  Croix, 

08(!eoln, 

Marine, 

Areola, 

Do. 
Stillwater, 

Do. 

Do. 

cTamestown, 
Willow  River, 
Lakeland, 
Point  Prescott, 

The  whole  of  the  above  mills  are  provided  with  the  necessary  machinery 
for  converting  their  slabs,  Ac,  into  laths;  the  annual  export  of  which 
amounts  to  about  ten  millions,  valued  at  one  dollar  per  thousand. 

The  whole  product  of  manufactured  lumber  amounts  annually  to  about 
twenty  millions  of  feet,  at  an  average  value  of  $11.50  per  M,  (this  amount 
is  exported)  — equal  to  $230,000. 

The  whole  amount  of  exports  of  lumber  in  logs,  run  to  the  lower  markets 

and  passed  through  the  St,  Croix  boom,  is 26,500,000  feet. 

Do.,  from  Apple  river,  is  estimated  at 5,000,000     " 

A.  .•      .'^3*'**^ : 81,500,000 

At  an  estimated  average  value  of  $5  per  M,  is  equal  to. ...     $167,000 

The  above  amount  is  reported;  the  estimated  amount  of  logs  now  re- 
maining on  the  St.  Croix  and  its  tributaries,  of  last  season's  cutting,  is  quite 
equal  to  15,000,000  of  feet. 

^  The  mills  located  at  St.  Paul,  St,  Anthony,  Manomin,  Rum  river.  Elk 
river,  and  Little  Falls,  have  been  noticed  in  the  preceding  pages. 


THE    END. 


